Last year we bought a generator. We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. We only expect to have about six outlets (120). And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. Thanks. I am in
Tampa Bay area.

On Jun 20, 9:23*am, Dottie wrote:
Last year we bought a generator. *We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. *We only expect to have about six outlets (120). *And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. *Thanks. *I am in
Tampa Bay area.

You really are lost, a 5000 horsepower gen would power a small town,
so ill guess its 5000 peak watts and maybe 3500 w full time load, or
maybe enough to run a frige, lights and tv safely. Generac has 6
circuit prewired complete kits for about 3-350, I put mine in, in a
day. By the way, costs have come down unless you live in one of those
rich oil producing countries like Dubai. You should be able to get one
done complete with kit for maybe 500 US$. Learn about what you have,
5000 means nothing, its going to safely run less than you think.
Hondas site has a good load calculator.

"Dottie" wrote in message
so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be.


I'd expect one to handle that size would be well over $20,000. Do you
have a diesel tanker parked outside to fuel it?

On Jun 20, 10:23*am, Dottie wrote:
Last year we bought a generator. *We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. *We only expect to have about six outlets (120). *And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. *Thanks. *I am in
Tampa Bay area.

Hope you mean 5,000 watts otherwise you can power you house and
neighbors with that much horsepower.

It's been a couple of years but electrician did mine as well as
replace old house panel which was deemed hazardous for about $1,100.
Retired friend in the business thought it was very reasonable. Price
included both boxes and extra wires for generator which I run outside
garage where box is located. My generator is 5,500 running watts,
7,500 start up and can handle 2 small freeezers, refrigerator, well,
furnace several lights and TV.

In a moment like this. I open the phone book, and call half
dozen listed electricians. I choose the one who is
reasonably priced, and sounds like he knows what he's doing.
And who doesn't try to intimdate me.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Dottie" wrote in message
...
Last year we bought a generator. We did not get a transfer
switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I
started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price
has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the
average
price be. We only expect to have about six outlets (120).
And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete
block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. Thanks.
I am in
Tampa Bay area.

"Dottie" wrote in message
...
Last year we bought a generator. We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. We only expect to have about six outlets (120). And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. Thanks. I am in
Tampa Bay area.

Here is a link to a typical manual transfer switch with 6 circuits max. This
one is rated for 7.5 KW. Your generator is probably 5KW, so one like this
will be fine. I can install one of these in about an hour, give or take, so
in my area of NY the installation would be no more than $200.
http://www.islandgenerators.com/brow...attmeters.HTML

On Jun 20, 11:20*am, "RBM" wrote:
"Dottie" wrote in message

...

Last year we bought a generator. *We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. *We only expect to have about six outlets (120). *And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. *Thanks. *I am in
Tampa Bay area.

Here is a link to a typical manual transfer switch with 6 circuits max. This
one is rated for 7.5 KW. Your generator is probably 5KW, so one like this
will be fine. I can install one of these in about an hour, give or take, so
in my area of NY the installation would be no more than $200.http://www.islandgenerators.com/brow...500-Watt-Gener...



Sorry - there is a lot going on here! I should have typed 5000 watts
- slightly higher start up number. Thank you for your help...

On Jun 20, 12:23*pm, Dorothy wrote:
On Jun 20, 11:20*am, "RBM" wrote:

"Dottie" wrote in message

....

Last year we bought a generator. *We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. *We only expect to have about six outlets (120). *And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. *Thanks. *I am in
Tampa Bay area.

Here is a link to a typical manual transfer switch with 6 circuits max. This
one is rated for 7.5 KW. Your generator is probably 5KW, so one like this
will be fine. I can install one of these in about an hour, give or take, so
in my area of NY the installation would be no more than $200.http://www..islandgenerators.com/bro...500-Watt-Gener...

Sorry - there is a lot going on here! *I should have typed 5000 watts
- slightly higher start up number. *Thank you for your help...

Dotty
Don't worry about the simple mistake in wording. Some people can't
resist giving the folks who come here for advise a hard time for
needing advise.

Your best solution is a main breaker interlock kit that interlocks the
main breaker with a breaker for the generator so that it is physically
difficult to close both at the same time. I use the word difficult
deliberately because anytime you think something is fool proof a new
and improved model of fool will show up and prove you wrong. Here in
the Washington, DC / Baltimore, MD area the cost to install a main
breaker interlock, the supply wiring, and the generator inlet box
would run about three hundred dollars ($300.00). The reason that I
like this solution is that it gives you a lot of flexibility in what
you can choose to run from the generator. It allows you to operate
any electrical load in the house that is within the capacity of the
generator. Whether there is such a kit for your panel can only be
determined by calling a supply house that is a stocking distributor
for your brand of panel. If you provide them with the panels part
number they can tell you whether an interlock kit is available for
it.

If there is no interlock kit for your panel then installing a main
breaker feed through lug panel ahead of your existing panel with an
interlock kit would work but the cost will rise to about six hundred
dollars ($600.00). Some of the additional cost is in the labor and
parts to convert your existing panel to a feeder supplied panel that
is no longer wired as service equipment. That remedy also provides
ten or more additional breaker slots for other loads and is a cost
effective way to install a heavy up were there are multiple feeder
supplied panels in the home already. The biggest draw back IMUHO is
the additional space that the new panel will take up either inside or
outside of the home.

--
Tom Horne

Dottie wrote:
Last year we bought a generator. We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. We only expect to have about six outlets (120). And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. Thanks. I am in
Tampa Bay area.

Put an ad in the Tampa Craigslist under "Wanted" (electrician).

As you found out, a transfer switch is not really needed - you CAN operate
with long extension cords.

Further, depending on the circuit-breaker box you have, you may be able to
forego a transfer switch altogether by a simple attachment to the
circuit-breaker box. This "attachment" is called a "Generator Interlock" and
relates the two twenty-amp breakers that go to the plug for your generator
and the main power disconnect.

This pair of breakers are normally OFF. When the power fails, you plug in
your generator, flip OFF the main disconnect, and flip ON the two breakers.
Viola! Power to the whole house.

The "Generator Interlock" mentioned above is a sliding bar that prevents the
MAIN disconnect switch from being on at the same time as the pair of
breakers leading to the generator. This interlock-thingy protects drunk or
fatigued linemen from getting tickled by your generator while they are
working on what they believe to be a dead distribution line.

Here's a set of examples for Square D breaker boxes:
http://www.interlockkit.com/squareDmain01.htm

If you study the instructions for each, you'll discover that you'll be
paying $150.00 for a single piece of metal and four piddly bolts.

Once this is in place, a power-outage involves the following steps:

1. Hook up the generator and start it.
2. Turn OFF the MAIN electrical service switch.
3. Turn OFF the circuit breakers that lead to huge electrical loads (Range,
Water heater, A/C, etc.) that might overload your generator (if any).
4. Slide the "Generator Interlock" business out of the way,
5. Exclaim "Let There Be Light!"
6. Turn ON the paired circuit breakers that lead to the generator.

In article
,
Tom Horne wrote:

Don't worry about the simple mistake in wording. Some people can't
resist giving the folks who come here for advise a hard time for
needing advise.

And some people can't resist trying to keep the English language from
deteriorating to the point where nouns and verbs are mixed up and no one
notices or cares.

advice (n)
advise (v)

HeyBub wrote:
Dottie wrote:
Last year we bought a generator. We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. We only expect to have about six outlets (120). And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. Thanks. I am in
Tampa Bay area.

Put an ad in the Tampa Craigslist under "Wanted" (electrician).

har har!

As you found out, a transfer switch is not really needed - you CAN operate
with long extension cords.

Further, depending on the circuit-breaker box you have, you may be able to
forego a transfer switch altogether by a simple attachment to the
circuit-breaker box. This "attachment" is called a "Generator Interlock" and
relates the two twenty-amp breakers that go to the plug for your generator
and the main power disconnect.

This pair of breakers are normally OFF. When the power fails, you plug in
your generator, flip OFF the main disconnect, and flip ON the two breakers.
Viola! Power to the whole house.

That is NOT a transfer switch. You forget to "flip OFF" the main and
when the elec comes back
BOOM!

Or worse, you electrocute a line worker!



The "Generator Interlock" mentioned above is a sliding bar that prevents the
MAIN disconnect switch from being on at the same time as the pair of
breakers leading to the generator. This interlock-thingy protects drunk or
fatigued linemen from getting tickled by your generator while they are
working on what they believe to be a dead distribution line.

That's the way to go!


Here's a set of examples for Square D breaker boxes:
http://www.interlockkit.com/squareDmain01.htm

If you study the instructions for each, you'll discover that you'll be
paying $150.00 for a single piece of metal and four piddly bolts.

Once this is in place, a power-outage involves the following steps:

1. Hook up the generator and start it.
2. Turn OFF the MAIN electrical service switch.
3. Turn OFF the circuit breakers that lead to huge electrical loads (Range,
Water heater, A/C, etc.) that might overload your generator (if any).
4. Slide the "Generator Interlock" business out of the way,
5. Exclaim "Let There Be Light!"
6. Turn ON the paired circuit breakers that lead to the generator.

This is very interesting - it might work for me - I'd have to replace
the feed to my generator hookup and change the order above...

RickMerrill wrote:

HeyBub wrote:

-snip-
The "Generator Interlock" mentioned above is a sliding bar that prevents the
MAIN disconnect switch from being on at the same time as the pair of
breakers leading to the generator. This interlock-thingy protects drunk or
fatigued linemen from getting tickled by your generator while they are
working on what they believe to be a dead distribution line.

That's the way to go!


Here's a set of examples for Square D breaker boxes:
http://www.interlockkit.com/squareDmain01.htm

If you study the instructions for each, you'll discover that you'll be
paying $150.00 for a single piece of metal and four piddly bolts.

Once this is in place, a power-outage involves the following steps:

1. Hook up the generator and start it.
2. Turn OFF the MAIN electrical service switch.
3. Turn OFF the circuit breakers that lead to huge electrical loads (Range,
Water heater, A/C, etc.) that might overload your generator (if any).
4. Slide the "Generator Interlock" business out of the way,
5. Exclaim "Let There Be Light!"
6. Turn ON the paired circuit breakers that lead to the generator.

This is very interesting - it might work for me - I'd have to replace
the feed to my generator hookup and change the order above...

I like this better- for $160 shipped;
http://www.apelectric.com/ProductDet...uctCode=20216V
Gen-Tran 20 Amp 6 circuit 5000 watt prewired manual transfer switch

The planning on what needs to be on gets done before the lights go
out. You've got meters to monitor loads.

I guess the downside is that it might be tough to decide you want a
7th circuit during an outage.

Jim

On Jun 22, 4:14*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
RickMerrill wrote:
HeyBub wrote:

-snip-





The "Generator Interlock" mentioned above is a sliding bar that prevents the
MAIN disconnect switch from being on at the same time as the pair of
breakers leading to the generator. This interlock-thingy protects drunk or
fatigued linemen from getting tickled by your generator while they are
working on what they believe to be a dead distribution line.

That's the way to go!

Here's a set of examples for Square D breaker boxes:
http://www.interlockkit.com/squareDmain01.htm

If you study the instructions for each, you'll discover that you'll be
paying $150.00 for a single piece of metal and four piddly bolts.

Once this is in place, a power-outage involves the following steps:

1. Hook up the generator and start it.
2. Turn OFF the MAIN electrical service switch.
3. Turn OFF the circuit breakers that lead to huge electrical loads (Range,
Water heater, A/C, etc.) that might overload your generator (if any).
4. Slide the "Generator Interlock" business out of the way,
5. Exclaim "Let There Be Light!"
6. Turn ON the paired circuit breakers that lead to the generator.

This is very interesting - it might work for me - I'd have to replace
the feed to my generator hookup and change the order above...

I like this better- for $160 shipped;http://www.apelectric.com/ProductDet...uctCode=20216V
Gen-Tran 20 Amp 6 circuit 5000 watt prewired manual transfer switch

The planning on what needs to be on gets done before the lights go
out. * You've got meters to monitor loads. *

I guess the downside is that it might be tough to decide you want a
7th circuit during an outage. * * *

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

5000 HP (Horsepower) is a railway locomotive, or small ship, sized
engine.
For example; a small car may have 100 HP engine, larger ones perhaps
200 to 300 HP.
Gasoline or diesel consumption for a 5000 watt (that's 5 kilowatts)
would probably be around one half to one quarter gallon per hour?
Depending to some extent on load. Such a unit may weigh several
hundred pounds.
..

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
RickMerrill wrote:

HeyBub wrote:

-snip-
The "Generator Interlock" mentioned above is a sliding bar that
prevents the MAIN disconnect switch from being on at the same time
as the pair of breakers leading to the generator. This
interlock-thingy protects drunk or fatigued linemen from getting
tickled by your generator while they are working on what they
believe to be a dead distribution line.

That's the way to go!


Here's a set of examples for Square D breaker boxes:
http://www.interlockkit.com/squareDmain01.htm

If you study the instructions for each, you'll discover that you'll
be paying $150.00 for a single piece of metal and four piddly bolts.

Once this is in place, a power-outage involves the following steps:

1. Hook up the generator and start it.
2. Turn OFF the MAIN electrical service switch.
3. Turn OFF the circuit breakers that lead to huge electrical loads
(Range, Water heater, A/C, etc.) that might overload your generator
(if any).
4. Slide the "Generator Interlock" business out of the way,
5. Exclaim "Let There Be Light!"
6. Turn ON the paired circuit breakers that lead to the generator.

This is very interesting - it might work for me - I'd have to replace
the feed to my generator hookup and change the order above...

I like this better- for $160 shipped;
http://www.apelectric.com/ProductDet...uctCode=20216V
Gen-Tran 20 Amp 6 circuit 5000 watt prewired manual transfer switch

The planning on what needs to be on gets done before the lights go
out. You've got meters to monitor loads.

I guess the downside is that it might be tough to decide you want a
7th circuit during an outage.


Right. You can make the decisions ad-hoc with a properly-labeled
circuit-breaker box. You may decide you've GOT to have the hair-dryer run
for ten minutes and the fridge can just wait.

RickMerrill wrote:
HeyBub wrote:
Dottie wrote:
Last year we bought a generator. We did not get a transfer switch
but did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I
started asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price
has gone up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I
am asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. We only expect to have about six outlets (120). And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so
it would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. Thanks. I am
in Tampa Bay area.

Put an ad in the Tampa Craigslist under "Wanted" (electrician).

har har!

As you found out, a transfer switch is not really needed - you CAN
operate with long extension cords.

Further, depending on the circuit-breaker box you have, you may be
able to forego a transfer switch altogether by a simple attachment
to the circuit-breaker box. This "attachment" is called a "Generator
Interlock" and relates the two twenty-amp breakers that go to the
plug for your generator and the main power disconnect.

This pair of breakers are normally OFF. When the power fails, you
plug in your generator, flip OFF the main disconnect, and flip ON
the two breakers. Viola! Power to the whole house.

That is NOT a transfer switch. You forget to "flip OFF" the main and
when the elec comes back
BOOM!

Or worse, you electrocute a line worker!



Right. It's NOT a transfer switch - it's a "Generator Interlock." You can't
forget to flip the main to OFF because you can't flip the generator circuit
to ON until you do. The device is a sliding metal bar that forces the
switches into their safe positions in order to work. There are three
permitted combinations:

MAIN - OFF
Generator - ON
or
MAIN - ON
Generator - OFF
or
MAIN - OFF
Generator - OFF

It is not physically possible to have both the MAIN and the Generator both
ON.

I didn't snip anything because for the life of me I have no idea what
you're getting at or responding to.

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:33:49 -0700 (PDT), stan
wrote:

On Jun 22, 4:14*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
RickMerrill wrote:
HeyBub wrote:

-snip-





The "Generator Interlock" mentioned above is a sliding bar that prevents the
MAIN disconnect switch from being on at the same time as the pair of
breakers leading to the generator. This interlock-thingy protects drunk or
fatigued linemen from getting tickled by your generator while they are
working on what they believe to be a dead distribution line.

That's the way to go!

Here's a set of examples for Square D breaker boxes:
http://www.interlockkit.com/squareDmain01.htm

If you study the instructions for each, you'll discover that you'll be
paying $150.00 for a single piece of metal and four piddly bolts.

Once this is in place, a power-outage involves the following steps:

1. Hook up the generator and start it.
2. Turn OFF the MAIN electrical service switch.
3. Turn OFF the circuit breakers that lead to huge electrical loads (Range,
Water heater, A/C, etc.) that might overload your generator (if any).
4. Slide the "Generator Interlock" business out of the way,
5. Exclaim "Let There Be Light!"
6. Turn ON the paired circuit breakers that lead to the generator.

This is very interesting - it might work for me - I'd have to replace
the feed to my generator hookup and change the order above...

I like this better- for $160 shipped;http://www.apelectric.com/ProductDet...uctCode=20216V
Gen-Tran 20 Amp 6 circuit 5000 watt prewired manual transfer switch

The planning on what needs to be on gets done before the lights go
out. * You've got meters to monitor loads. *

I guess the downside is that it might be tough to decide you want a
7th circuit during an outage. * * *

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

5000 HP (Horsepower) is a railway locomotive, or small ship, sized
engine.

OK-- but the space shuttle produces many millions of HP. [12-37
depending on who does the math]

For example; a small car may have 100 HP engine, larger ones perhaps
200 to 300 HP.

Aw, c'mon a good muscle-car has 6-700hp. The 68 El dorado had 400.

Gasoline or diesel consumption for a 5000 watt (that's 5 kilowatts)
would probably be around one half to one quarter gallon per hour?
Depending to some extent on load. Such a unit may weigh several
hundred pounds.
.

You're pretty close here-- but what does that have to do with a
transfer switch?

Jim

In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

Viola!

Well, a little closer than "wa-la," but still not a bullseye. I'm not
without hope, though. One of these days, with a million monkeys on
usenet, one of them will get the word right.

RickMerrill wrote:

That is NOT a transfer switch. You forget to "flip OFF" the main and
when the elec comes back
BOOM!

Or worse, you electrocute a line worker!

No - if you follow the link you'll see that the setup includes a slider that
prevents both breakers from being on at the same time. Quite clever really and
way cheaper than a transfer switch - especiall the ones that force you to
designate which breakers can be fed by the genset.

"Dottie" wrote in message
...
Last year we bought a generator. We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. We only expect to have about six outlets (120). And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. Thanks. I am in
Tampa Bay area.

There are several approaches.

The cheapest reasonably convenient and quite safe approach is the box that
provides a transfer of a sub-set of your ciruits to your generator. The
"box" cost less that $200 and a good electrician may well install it for
another $200 (other posters have mentioned this approach.) The main
problem is that the only a few circuits can be run from the generator.
Most folks want something that lets them use the generator for "important
loads" for a certain time (refrigeration, furnace blower) and then run some
lower priority loads like your computers and TV for a few hours.

A transfer switch box with only 7 or so circuits will not cut it.

Solutions including getting a large capacity transfer switch or just adding
a second switch and move the generator female outlet from one box to another
or just getting a "whole house" transfer switch.

Some/many utility companies will install a "whole house" transfer switch
that connects via the meter socket. This would permit you to use you
generator to power any load in your house. This switch usually costs
$1,000 installed.

Of course, the "suicide cord" approach works quite well IF (that's a big if)
you can always be sure that the person in charge of the "transfer operation"
knows what he is doing and doesn't connect the generator and close the main
breaker at the same time. (The "suicide cord" is a heavy duty 3 or 4 wire
extention cord with MALE connectors at both end: one end goes to your
portable generator and the other end goes, usually, to your electric dryer
connection.) Folks who are stupid or careless will soon learn why it's
called a "suicide cord."

Dottie wrote:
Last year we bought a generator. We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. We only expect to have about six outlets (120). And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. Thanks. I am in
Tampa Bay area.

I don't know if anyone else mentioned manually operated
double pole double throw safety switches. I've installed
several of them over the years as an economical way to
transfer power from the power company feed to a generator.

http://tinyurl.com/nr84za

TDD

On Jun 22, 9:34*pm, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
Dottie wrote:
Last year we bought a generator. *We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. *We only expect to have about six outlets (120). *And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. *Thanks. *I am in
Tampa Bay area.

I don't know if anyone else mentioned manually operated
double pole double throw safety switches. I've installed
several of them over the years as an economical way to
transfer power from the power company feed to a generator.

http://tinyurl.com/nr84za

TDD

Does a transfer switch switch the neutral or just the two hots? In the
commercail 3 phase units we uses at work the nuetral is switched. I
was wondering if this was true for residential units also.

Jimmie

Robert Neville wrote:
RickMerrill wrote:

That is NOT a transfer switch. You forget to "flip OFF" the main and
when the elec comes back
BOOM!

Or worse, you electrocute a line worker!

No - if you follow the link you'll see that the setup includes a
slider that prevents both breakers from being on at the same time.
Quite clever really and way cheaper than a transfer switch -
especiall the ones that force you to designate which breakers can be
fed by the genset.

Yeah, but it ain't $150.00 clever.

I made my own from a flat piece of plexiglass.

JIMMIE wrote:
On Jun 22, 9:34 pm, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
Dottie wrote:
Last year we bought a generator. We did not get a transfer switch but
did talk about it in estimated costs ... so this year when I started
asking about buying one and getting it installed, the price has gone
up a lot and there is a big variation according to whom I am
asking ... for a 5000 horsepower generator - what should the average
price be. We only expect to have about six outlets (120). And what
should we expect to pay to install it - garage is concrete block so it
would have to be mounted on the wall with screws. Thanks. I am in
Tampa Bay area.
I don't know if anyone else mentioned manually operated
double pole double throw safety switches. I've installed
several of them over the years as an economical way to
transfer power from the power company feed to a generator.

http://tinyurl.com/nr84za

TDD

Does a transfer switch switch the neutral or just the two hots? In the
commercail 3 phase units we uses at work the nuetral is switched. I
was wondering if this was true for residential units also.

Jimmie

The switches I've installed in homes have only switched the
two hot wires even the automatic variety. I don't remember
if the Onan three phase units I installed switched the neutral.
Even the Kohler 40kw unit I installed didn't switch the neutral.
I've installed Generac generators in 8 to 20kw sizes and none
of them switched the neutral.

TDD

HeyBub wrote:

Robert Neville wrote:
RickMerrill wrote:

That is NOT a transfer switch. You forget to "flip OFF" the main and
when the elec comes back
BOOM!

Or worse, you electrocute a line worker!

No - if you follow the link you'll see that the setup includes a
slider that prevents both breakers from being on at the same time.
Quite clever really and way cheaper than a transfer switch -
especiall the ones that force you to designate which breakers can be
fed by the genset.

Yeah, but it ain't $150.00 clever.

I made my own from a flat piece of plexiglass.

I have the Square D interlock on my panel, and it was not $150. I seem
to recall it cost about $35 when I ordered it from my electrical supply
place.

It is by far the least expensive transfer device available, particularly
considering it can handle up to a 125A / 30KW generator connection (125A
max branch circuit breaker size, ~$90 breaker).

Pete C. wrote:
HeyBub wrote:

Robert Neville wrote:
RickMerrill wrote:

That is NOT a transfer switch. You forget to "flip OFF" the main
and when the elec comes back
BOOM!

Or worse, you electrocute a line worker!

No - if you follow the link you'll see that the setup includes a
slider that prevents both breakers from being on at the same time.
Quite clever really and way cheaper than a transfer switch -
especiall the ones that force you to designate which breakers can be
fed by the genset.

Yeah, but it ain't $150.00 clever.

I made my own from a flat piece of plexiglass.

I have the Square D interlock on my panel, and it was not $150. I seem
to recall it cost about $35 when I ordered it from my electrical
supply place.

It is by far the least expensive transfer device available,
particularly considering it can handle up to a 125A / 30KW generator
connection (125A max branch circuit breaker size, ~$90 breaker).

Ho! I didn't check the price at an electrical supply house; I just looked at
the SRP on the Square-D web site and what the things were being offered for
on Ebay.

Thanks for the tip.

Robert Neville wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:

People don't know the difference. Like the "lose"
vs. "loose" thing. It's tragic, really, how illiterate we've become.

And my personal favorite, usually spoken: mute instead of moot.

I'm continually amazed at those who can't distinguish between the Battle of
Agincourt ["We few, we happy few, we band of brothers..."] and the Battle of
the Network Stars ["duh..."]

Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
Tom Horne wrote:

On Jun 23, 1:56 pm, Smitty Two wrote:


Typo? Twice in the same sentence? Nah. It happens all the time, from
many, many posters. People don't know the difference. Like the
"lose" vs. "loose" thing. It's tragic, really, how illiterate we've
become.

Well it is nice to know that I qualify for assignment to an
illiterate squadron. Let me try again to offer an alternative
explanation. Because of physical memory many persons; including
myself obviously; will repeat the same typing error, once having
made it, when the same word comes up again in close proximity to
that words first misspelled use such as in the same sentence. I
guess I'll have to keep struggling along beneath the high standards
that you require. --
Tom Horne

My apologies, Tom, I didn't realize you were the poster who had
committed the typos, I thought you were just coming to that person's
defense. Advise vs. advice is not a typo I would ever make, so pardon
my initial skepticism. You seem reasonably literate, other than an
inexplicable penchant for interminable paragraphs.

And "close proximity." But nobody's perfekt.

On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 12:16:09 -0600, Robert Neville
wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

People don't know the difference. Like the "lose"
vs. "loose" thing. It's tragic, really, how illiterate we've become.

And my personal favorite, usually spoken: mute instead of moot.

And mine, mixing up "breath" and "breathe". I even a saw an ad for a
local hospital that said "Breath easy Kilgore". It's good thing the
doctors didn't write that ad.

BTW, that one WAS corrected a few days later. Many aren't.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov