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#1
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
I have an approximately 38 year old upright freezer. It is working
perfectly. I know door gasket is not as good at it could be, however, it seems to close pretty tight. It can be real hard to open a 2nd time after looking for something. But I know there are a lot of square feet which are acted upon by a very small vacuum. Also, if the unit is not running, like after a defrost, the magnets in the door gasket are pretty weak. Anyway, to the question. In your opinions, would it be advantageous to replace it for a new more efficient unit? How long do you think it would take it to pay off? BTW, this freezer has survived being powered off for 4 months and moved 700 miles, approximately 3 years ago. It is a little noisy, but it's been that way for 38 year, except now it is in a place were I can hear it more. |
#2
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
I'd be tempted to use an ammeter, to see what the running current is. That
could give you some "hard data" to go on. I do know that old compressors use more power, as they grow older. Anecdotal evidence. I got a newer fridge, the old one was here when I moved in, late 1994. My electric bill dropped about ten bucks a month. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Art Todesco" wrote in message ... I have an approximately 38 year old upright freezer. It is working perfectly. I know door gasket is not as good at it could be, however, it seems to close pretty tight. It can be real hard to open a 2nd time after looking for something. But I know there are a lot of square feet which are acted upon by a very small vacuum. Also, if the unit is not running, like after a defrost, the magnets in the door gasket are pretty weak. Anyway, to the question. In your opinions, would it be advantageous to replace it for a new more efficient unit? How long do you think it would take it to pay off? BTW, this freezer has survived being powered off for 4 months and moved 700 miles, approximately 3 years ago. It is a little noisy, but it's been that way for 38 year, except now it is in a place were I can hear it more. |
#3
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
Art Todesco wrote:
I have an approximately 38 year old upright freezer. It is working perfectly. In your opinions, would it be advantageous to replace it for a new more efficient unit? How long do you think it would take it to pay off? Your answers can be found he http://michaelbluejay.com/electricit...igerators.html It helps to know how the size (in sq.ft.) you have. A chest-style freezer is more efficient vs an upright style. And yes, your 38-year-old freezer will be an energy hog compared to a new unit. You'd probably see a payoff in 5 years for a new chest-style unit of equivalent size. |
#4
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Apr 10, 8:49*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote: I'd be tempted to use an ammeter, to see what the running current is. That could give you some "hard data" to go on. I do know that old compressors use more power, as they grow older. Anecdotal evidence. I got a newer fridge, the old one was here when I moved in, late 1994. My electric bill dropped about ten bucks a month. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus *www.lds.org . "Art Todesco" wrote in message ... I have an approximately 38 year old upright freezer. *It is working perfectly. *I know door gasket is not as good at it could be, however, it seems to close pretty tight. *It can be real hard to open a 2nd time after looking for something. *But I know there are a lot of square feet which are acted upon by a very small vacuum. *Also, if the unit is not running, like after a defrost, the magnets in the door gasket are pretty weak. *Anyway, to the question. *In your opinions, would it be advantageous to replace it for a new more efficient unit? *How long do you think it would take it to pay off? *BTW, this freezer has survived being powered off for 4 months and moved 700 miles, approximately 3 years ago. *It is a little noisy, but it's been that way for 38 year, except now it is in a place were I can hear it more. As I reported previously, I replaced a 27 year old fridge a year ago. Prior to doing that, I used a killawatt meter for a few days on it. It was using $180 a year in electricity. I measured the new one after it stabilized. It uses $95. The EPA calculator that estimates savings had predicted the old one was using more like $275. So, my conclusions we You can save a decent amount on energy that will help pay for a new fridge/freezer, but the payback period can still be long. The EPA calculator in my case significantly overestimated the amount my old fridge was using, but it was spot on about how much the new one used. You may want to buy a killawatt meter which can be had for $25. It's usefull anytime you want to know how much electricity something is using. You can even put in your cost of electricity per kwh and it will then display the usage of whatever you plug into it in terms of $$$ per day, week, month, year, etc. |
#5
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On 2012-04-10, Art Todesco wrote:
years ago. It is a little noisy, but it's been that way for 38 year, except now it is in a place were I can hear it more. I wouldn't trust energy stats, specially those provided by manufacturers. Ask your energy company for a real world cost break-down. Also, yer current freezer has lasted for 38 yrs. I, too, had a 30+ yr old refrigerator and 25+ yr old wshr/dryr set. They made 'em to last, didn't they! Will you actually save money by purchasing new? My mom's last new refrigerator lasted only 5 yrs before dying an unrepairable death. That's jes about the time she would have started realizing some cost savings, but then had to buy a new one. Her current one, about 5 yrs old, jes blew a fan motor. Repairs cost over $200. Of her two chest freezers, both less than 10 yrs old, one jes died. The other got eaten by a bear (no kidding!). Me? I'd stick with something that works. me -- vi --the heart of evil! |
#6
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"Art Todesco" wrote in message
... How long do you think it would take it to pay off? BTW, this freezer has survived being powered off for 4 months and moved 700 miles, approximately 3 years ago. It is a little noisy, but it's been that way for 38 year, except now it is in a place were I can hear it more. Hard to know without specifics like cost of new freezer, electricity, usage, etc. Everything Trader said was accurate. The Kill-A-Watt meter readings in my case were even more dramatic because the insulation in my unit had absorbed moisture over time and the seals had been repaired several times but never as well as new. As the unit aged (and presumably was leaking small amounts of refrigerant from an over-zealous defrost with a sharp tool), the current draw increased substantially. The new unit, albeit slight smaller and with less freezer space but more refrigerator space than the old unit, has so far used less than half the juice of the 30+ year old White-Westinghouse it replaced. The same gains were had replacing one 12,000 BTU Fedders window AC with two smaller 5 and 8K BTU units of recent vintage. The new ones use some tricks to gain efficiency like spraying condensate onto the plastic fan blades to increase cooling efficiency. Makes it cheaper to run, but noisier to operate. Ironically, the cost of electricity has risen so much in DC in the last 5 years that it's only kept my bill at the same amount. Without the new gear, it would really have soared. As for the Kill-a-Watt, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009MDBU Under $20. Every home should have at least one. I've got a few and even buy them for friends when they complain about their electric bills. It enables you to determine what devices should be unplugged or put on a switchable outlet strip because they consume large amounts of standby power. (Lots of them!) Only fault of the cheaper units (they make a number of models) is that if the power blinks, the accumulated readings (the only way to REALLY measure consumption) are lost. For devices like a refrigerator, it pays to note the readings every couple of days and jot them down so you don't lose a few months worth with one blink. I haven't run one off a UPS yet (wouldn't have worked for the fridge) but I think I'll put that on what my wife calls "The Science Project" list. (-: -- Bobby G. |
#7
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 06:13:48 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Apr 10, 8:49*am, "Stormin Mormon" wrote: I'd be tempted to use an ammeter, to see what the running current is. That could give you some "hard data" to go on. I do know that old compressors use more power, as they grow older. Anecdotal evidence. I got a newer fridge, the old one was here when I moved in, late 1994. My electric bill dropped about ten bucks a month. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus *www.lds.org . "Art Todesco" wrote in message ... I have an approximately 38 year old upright freezer. *It is working perfectly. *I know door gasket is not as good at it could be, however, it seems to close pretty tight. *It can be real hard to open a 2nd time after looking for something. *But I know there are a lot of square feet which are acted upon by a very small vacuum. *Also, if the unit is not running, like after a defrost, the magnets in the door gasket are pretty weak. *Anyway, to the question. *In your opinions, would it be advantageous to replace it for a new more efficient unit? *How long do you think it would take it to pay off? *BTW, this freezer has survived being powered off for 4 months and moved 700 miles, approximately 3 years ago. *It is a little noisy, but it's been that way for 38 year, except now it is in a place were I can hear it more. As I reported previously, I replaced a 27 year old fridge a year ago. Prior to doing that, I used a killawatt meter for a few days on it. It was using $180 a year in electricity. I measured the new one after it stabilized. It uses $95. The EPA calculator that estimates savings had predicted the old one was using more like $275. So, my conclusions we You can save a decent amount on energy that will help pay for a new fridge/freezer, but the payback period can still be long. The EPA calculator in my case significantly overestimated the amount my old fridge was using, but it was spot on about how much the new one used. You may want to buy a killawatt meter which can be had for $25. It's usefull anytime you want to know how much electricity something is using. You can even put in your cost of electricity per kwh and it will then display the usage of whatever you plug into it in terms of $$$ per day, week, month, year, etc. Can I use a voltmeter with probes to measure what the refrig uses? Do I just measure the 2 sides of the refrig's electrical plug? Or how do you do this measurement? |
#8
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"notbob" wrote in message
... stuff snipped Will you actually save money by purchasing new? My mom's last new refrigerator lasted only 5 yrs before dying an unrepairable death. That's jes about the time she would have started realizing some cost savings, but then had to buy a new one. Her current one, about 5 yrs old, jes blew a fan motor. Repairs cost over $200. Of her two chest freezers, both less than 10 yrs old, one jes died. The other got eaten by a bear (no kidding!). Thanks for reminding me. A lot of people have said their new units have needed replacement or repairs very early on in their life cycle. That, of course, could alter the payback stats. The old A/C ran, uncovered in the window all year long, for 17 years. The fridge for over 30. I suspect their replacements, with the use of far more plastic parts, won't last nearly as long. It's a lot easier to make the decision to replace when the old ones fail. A lot of the efficiency of new units comes from better insulation. I'd get a Kil-a-watt and see if insulating the outside of the freezer saved any money. It took 22 years for my Honda to reach the "can't repair it anymore" point. -- Bobby G. |
#9
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"Doug" wrote in message
Can I use a voltmeter with probes to measure what the refrig uses? Do I just measure the 2 sides of the refrig's electrical plug? Or how do you do this measurement? No. You need a "tong" meter and a special cord that isolates the hot from the neutral to measure only instantaneous current. Or a special cord that lets you put an ammeter in series with the unit. Most pocket meters can't handle that sort of current, anyway. Look on your meter, if it reads amps, it should say 10 or 20A max on the jacks. That's why the Kill-a-watt is so useful. None of that is required. Plus, even the cheapest ones can read power use over time in kWh which no common multimeter I know does. The more expensive units have memories and cost computers built in, but unless you have lots of power blinks or outages, that's overkill, IMHO. -- Bobby G. |
#10
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On 10 Apr 2012 14:10:06 GMT, notbob wrote:
On 2012-04-10, Art Todesco wrote: years ago. It is a little noisy, but it's been that way for 38 year, except now it is in a place were I can hear it more. I wouldn't trust energy stats, specially those provided by manufacturers. Ask your energy company for a real world cost break-down. Also, yer current freezer has lasted for 38 yrs. I, too, had a 30+ yr old refrigerator and 25+ yr old wshr/dryr set. They made 'em to last, didn't they! Will you actually save money by purchasing new? My mom's last new refrigerator lasted only 5 yrs before dying an unrepairable death. That's jes about the time she would have started realizing some cost savings, but then had to buy a new one. Her current one, about 5 yrs old, jes blew a fan motor. Repairs cost over $200. Of her two chest freezers, both less than 10 yrs old, one jes died. The other got eaten by a bear (no kidding!). Me? I'd stick with something that works. me My thoughts too. As you pointed out, the true cost of operation is more than just the electrical useage. Personally I think I'd run the 38 year old freezer till it needed a repair and then consider saving what that repair costs and putting it toward the new unit. That's not to say the new unit will last as long but repairing (assuming the parts are still available) a 38 year old unit may be a first sign of more to come. On a side note, things that I was once told were to last so many years, more recently I'm told those same things last perhaps half (or less) as long nowadays.... ie: washing machines, hot water heaters, refrigs come to mind. That's sad in my opinion. |
#11
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
Very seriously, please try to find someone in your life who is experienced
with electricty. You already should know that electricity is dangerous, and house power can kill you. Or kill someone else. Have that other person show you some of the simple measurements. To answer your question, no, you can't measure amps with two volt meters. That said..... To measure amps, you need a device like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/clamp-o...ter-95683.html The big open end clamp is clamped around ONE of the power wires, not both. If you clamp the AC line cord, you get a reading of zero, as there is both a hot and neutral. You need to separate out the wires, and clamp either the hot, or the neutral. Measure the voltage (volts scale, read at the power socket). Volts times amps (multiply the two numbers) equals watts. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Doug" wrote in message ... Can I use a voltmeter with probes to measure what the refrig uses? Do I just measure the 2 sides of the refrig's electrical plug? Or how do you do this measurement? |
#12
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"Doug" wrote in message
stuff snipped On a side note, things that I was once told were to last so many years, more recently I'm told those same things last perhaps half (or less) as long nowadays.... ie: washing machines, hot water heaters, refrigs come to mind. That's sad in my opinion. It's a deliberate process. The manufacturer examines parts on machines returned for servuce that have lasted longer than the warranty and decide which ones were stronger than they needed to be. Then they weaken them. (-: Two examples come to mind. The first Compaqs were indestructible, using gold-plated connectors rated at 10's of thousands of insertions along the unit's I/O backplane. They almost never failed. Over the years, they reduced the spec of that part until they started to see *some* consumer complaints. That's when they decided to stop reducing the part's quality. Toyota used to paint the inside of their bumpers until cost experts said that customers would almost never see the paint and so they stopped doing it. Still, if you're thrifty, it's hard to trash something that hasn't failed for a gradual payback on your electric bill. It's so much nicer when they cooperate by dying a quick, expensive to repair, death. -- Bobby G. |
#13
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:24:02 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote: "Doug" wrote in message Can I use a voltmeter with probes to measure what the refrig uses? Do I just measure the 2 sides of the refrig's electrical plug? Or how do you do this measurement? No. You need a "tong" meter and a special cord that isolates the hot from the neutral to measure only instantaneous current. Or a special cord that lets you put an ammeter in series with the unit. Most pocket meters can't handle that sort of current, anyway. Look on your meter, if it reads amps, it should say 10 or 20A max on the jacks. That's why the Kill-a-watt is so useful. None of that is required. Plus, even the cheapest ones can read power use over time in kWh which no common multimeter I know does. The more expensive units have memories and cost computers built in, but unless you have lots of power blinks or outages, that's overkill, IMHO. I should have said multimeter not voltmeter... my mistake. Specifically can the Fluke 117 do it using it's amp meter? I know some are wondering how is a Fluke 117 in my hands with my lack of knowledge but let's just say that the price was too good to not buy .... and no I didn't steal it, got it on ebay new. |
#14
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:37:24 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote: Very seriously, please try to find someone in your life who is experienced with electricty. You already should know that electricity is dangerous, and house power can kill you. Or kill someone else. Have that other person show you some of the simple measurements. To answer your question, no, you can't measure amps with two volt meters. You're right but I like to learn and I'm not afraid of dying. |
#15
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
" writes:
As I reported previously, I replaced a 27 year old fridge a year ago. Prior to doing that, I used a killawatt meter for a few days on it. It was using $180 a year in electricity. I measured the new one after it stabilized. It uses $95. The EPA calculator that estimates savings had predicted the old one was using more like $275. So, my conclusions we You can save a decent amount on energy that will help pay for a new fridge/freezer, Crap. Our freezer is getting close to 40 years old. I was hoping to never buy another one. but the payback period can still be long. Oh, okay... -- Dan Espen |
#16
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/Digi....htm?PID=55996
From what I can tell here, this meter will measure AC amps up to 10 amps scale. I've got a similar meter, I've used the AC amps scale for reading HVAC thermostat and gas valve. Refrigerator is typically about 5 amps, at least the new ones. If it were me, I'd not risk a good Fluke meter on an old freezer. I'd go buy a HF ammeter, less likely to break your good Fluke. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Doug" wrote in message ... I should have said multimeter not voltmeter... my mistake. Specifically can the Fluke 117 do it using it's amp meter? I know some are wondering how is a Fluke 117 in my hands with my lack of knowledge but let's just say that the price was too good to not buy .... and no I didn't steal it, got it on ebay new. |
#17
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
In that case, this should be a terrific learning experience.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Doug" wrote in message ... You're right but I like to learn and I'm not afraid of dying. |
#18
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:59:19 -0400, Dan Espen
wrote: " writes: As I reported previously, I replaced a 27 year old fridge a year ago. Prior to doing that, I used a killawatt meter for a few days on it. It was using $180 a year in electricity. I measured the new one after it stabilized. It uses $95. The EPA calculator that estimates savings had predicted the old one was using more like $275. So, my conclusions we You can save a decent amount on energy that will help pay for a new fridge/freezer, Crap. Our freezer is getting close to 40 years old. I was hoping to never buy another one. Well if you are old enough, you might get your wish !!! |
#19
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:42:20 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote: "Doug" wrote in message stuff snipped On a side note, things that I was once told were to last so many years, more recently I'm told those same things last perhaps half (or less) as long nowadays.... ie: washing machines, hot water heaters, refrigs come to mind. That's sad in my opinion. It's a deliberate process. The manufacturer examines parts on machines returned for servuce that have lasted longer than the warranty and decide which ones were stronger than they needed to be. Then they weaken them. (-: Two examples come to mind. The first Compaqs were indestructible, using gold-plated connectors rated at 10's of thousands of insertions along the unit's I/O backplane. They almost never failed. Over the years, they reduced the spec of that part until they started to see *some* consumer complaints. That's when they decided to stop reducing the part's quality. Toyota used to paint the inside of their bumpers until cost experts said that customers would almost never see the paint and so they stopped doing it. Still, if you're thrifty, it's hard to trash something that hasn't failed for a gradual payback on your electric bill. It's so much nicer when they cooperate by dying a quick, expensive to repair, death. Agreed. I couldn't see myself buying a big screen tv but the death of my old large heavy Sony made it a bit easy to swallow Of course I like the new tv much better but honestly if the old one was still working, I'd probably still be using it. I'm cheap but like to say practical instead. Besides I still have 2 daughters that regardless of age, don't mind asking me for money or favors. |
#20
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"Doug" wrote in message
stuff snipped Can I use a voltmeter with probes to measure what the refrig uses? Do I just measure the 2 sides of the refrig's electrical plug? Or how do you do this measurement? No. You need a "tong" meter and a special cord that isolates the hot from the neutral to measure only instantaneous current. Or a special cord that lets you put an ammeter in series with the unit. Most pocket meters can't handle that sort of current, anyway. Look on your meter, if it reads amps, it should say 10 or 20A max on the jacks. That's why the Kill-a-watt is so useful. None of that is required. Plus, even the cheapest ones can read power use over time in kWh which no common multimeter I know does. The more expensive units have memories and cost computers built in, but unless you have lots of power blinks or outages, that's overkill, IMHO. I should have said multimeter not voltmeter... my mistake. Specifically can the Fluke 117 do it using it's amp meter? First, if you're determined (and it will take making up a special line cord to accomplish), read the MAX AMPS listing on your Fluke. That will tell you if it can handle current drawn by the unit. You can probably get away with measuring fridge if there's a slow-blow fuse on the meter, but it's dangerous to do unless you feel comfortable with wiring up a special outlet (which I did) to allow you to measure an appliance's amperage. You have to read the current draw in series, not in parallel like a voltmeter. Unless you are using a tong meter (clamp on induction measuring device) the meter needs to become part of the entire circuit. I know some are wondering how is a Fluke 117 in my hands with my lack of knowledge but let's just say that the price was too good to not buy ... and no I didn't steal it, got it on ebay new. It's a fine meter, but not so much for this job. An instantaneous reading of the current, which is all your Fluke is likely able to do, won't tell you much about weekly costs to run. That's because a fridge uses differing amounts of energy during its operational cycles. Break down and buy the Kill-a-watt. No special cords, no electrocution hazard and the ability to log readings over long periods of time to average out fluctuations. Even my meter that hooks into an RS232 port of a PC to allow logging readings can't tell you what a Kill-a-Watt can. It's the right tool for the job and it will have uses far beyond the current one. -- Bobby G. |
#21
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On 2012-04-10, Doug wrote:
On a side note, things that I was once told were to last so many years, more recently I'm told those same things last perhaps half (or less) as long nowadays.... ie: washing machines, hot water heaters, refrigs come to mind. That's sad in my opinion. Three things have rendered reliability out: planned obsolescence, bottom-line cheapness, disposability. It jes doesn't pay to make a long lasting quality product or repair products than be purchased new for less. No incentive for the user to purchase a new one. Seen any TV/radio repair shops, lately? -- vi --the heart of evil! |
#22
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"Doug" wrote in message
... On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:37:24 -0400, "Stormin Mormon" wrote: Very seriously, please try to find someone in your life who is experienced with electricty. You already should know that electricity is dangerous, and house power can kill you. Or kill someone else. Have that other person show you some of the simple measurements. To answer your question, no, you can't measure amps with two volt meters. You're right but I like to learn and I'm not afraid of dying. That's the pioneer spirit that made this country great! (-: Seriously, though, the Kill-a-watt is exactly the right tool for this job. Once you've used one, you'll see. BTW, I long ago made up a test outlet box with isolated hot and neutral wires and banana jacks on the side of the outlet box with a bypass switch that allowed me to use either a clamp-on ammeter or a multimeter "direct wire" connection. I never use it anymore since I got the Kill-a-watt. -- Bobby G. |
#23
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"Doug" wrote in message
stuff snipped Still, if you're thrifty, it's hard to trash something that hasn't failed for a gradual payback on your electric bill. It's so much nicer when they cooperate by dying a quick, expensive to repair, death. Agreed. I couldn't see myself buying a big screen tv but the death of my old large heavy Sony made it a bit easy to swallow Of course I like the new tv much better but honestly if the old one was still working, I'd probably still be using it. I'm cheap but like to say practical instead. Besides I still have 2 daughters that regardless of age, don't mind asking me for money or favors. I nursed an RCA color TV for 25 years until adjustments could no longer correct the ever-enlarging image and the ever decreasing color saturation. It was still working when I curbed it. The difference between old CRT TV's and equal sized LCD/LED units is pretty impressive. So is the picture. -- Bobby G. |
#24
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"notbob" wrote in message
... On 2012-04-10, Doug wrote: On a side note, things that I was once told were to last so many years, more recently I'm told those same things last perhaps half (or less) as long nowadays.... ie: washing machines, hot water heaters, refrigs come to mind. That's sad in my opinion. Three things have rendered reliability out: planned obsolescence, bottom-line cheapness, disposability. It jes doesn't pay to make a long lasting quality product or repair products than be purchased new for less. No incentive for the user to purchase a new one. Seen any TV/radio repair shops, lately? On the flip side, I was always amazed how easily PC's could be repaired - at least in the beginning. No video? Swap out a board! It's all a trade off. I agree with you. People won't pay what it's worth in time to have something diagnosed and repaired when that cost is perhaps half to three-quarters the price of a newer (and often better) model. I gave up fixing PC's for friends for that reason. They're grateful right after you restore megabytes of precious data - but not for very long after that. )-: Sort of "I know you saved my life last week, but what have you done for me lately?" -- Bobby G. |
#25
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"Robert Green" wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message Can I use a voltmeter with probes to measure what the refrig uses? Do I just measure the 2 sides of the refrig's electrical plug? Or how do you do this measurement? No. You need a "tong" meter and a special cord that isolates the hot from the neutral to measure only instantaneous current. Or a special cord that lets you put an ammeter in series with the unit. Most pocket meters can't handle that sort of current, anyway. Look on your meter, if it reads amps, it should say 10 or 20A max on the jacks. That's why the Kill-a-watt is so useful. None of that is required. Plus, even the cheapest ones can read power use over time in kWh which no common multimeter I know does. The more expensive units have memories and cost computers built in, but unless you have lots of power blinks or outages, that's overkill, IMHO. -- Bobby G. A kill a watt measures power factor to get the true watts. Unless you measure the volts and amps with an oscilloscope and do the calculations, an amp meter is useless. An interesting fact, my old fridge has .59 pf where my newer one is close to 1. The kill a watt also calculates total on time for the kwh. Nothing was mentioned of size of freezer. You can buy a moderate sized one cheap, and I would recommend the chest. Greg |
#26
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Apr 10, 12:43*pm, "Doug" wrote:
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:42:20 -0400, "Robert Green" wrote: it. Still, if you're thrifty, it's hard to trash something that hasn't failed for a gradual payback on your electric bill. *It's so much nicer when they cooperate by dying a quick, expensive to repair, death. Agreed. *I couldn't see myself buying a big screen tv but the death of my old large heavy Sony made it a bit easy to swallow * * * * Of course I like the new tv much better but honestly if the old one was still working, I'd probably still be using it. * I'm cheap but like to say practical instead. Did you buy LCD or Plasma? LCDs use about the same amount of power or slightly more for same size screen. I had a 45" Mitsubishi RPTV that lasted me for 12 years that I replaced 2 years ago with a 50" Panasonic Plasma. The Panny uses 400 watts, as compared to the Mits that used 210 watts. |
#27
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 13:06:14 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote: "Doug" wrote in message .. . On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:37:24 -0400, "Stormin Mormon" wrote: Very seriously, please try to find someone in your life who is experienced with electricty. You already should know that electricity is dangerous, and house power can kill you. Or kill someone else. Have that other person show you some of the simple measurements. To answer your question, no, you can't measure amps with two volt meters. You're right but I like to learn and I'm not afraid of dying. That's the pioneer spirit that made this country great! (-: Seriously, though, the Kill-a-watt is exactly the right tool for this job. Once you've used one, you'll see. BTW, I long ago made up a test outlet box with isolated hot and neutral wires and banana jacks on the side of the outlet box with a bypass switch that allowed me to use either a clamp-on ammeter or a multimeter "direct wire" connection. I never use it anymore since I got the Kill-a-watt. Thanks for the info Bobby. I'll look into it. |
#28
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 13:02:31 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote: "Doug" wrote in message stuff snipped Can I use a voltmeter with probes to measure what the refrig uses? Do I just measure the 2 sides of the refrig's electrical plug? Or how do you do this measurement? No. You need a "tong" meter and a special cord that isolates the hot from the neutral to measure only instantaneous current. Or a special cord that lets you put an ammeter in series with the unit. Most pocket meters can't handle that sort of current, anyway. Look on your meter, if it reads amps, it should say 10 or 20A max on the jacks. That's why the Kill-a-watt is so useful. None of that is required. Plus, even the cheapest ones can read power use over time in kWh which no common multimeter I know does. The more expensive units have memories and cost computers built in, but unless you have lots of power blinks or outages, that's overkill, IMHO. I should have said multimeter not voltmeter... my mistake. Specifically can the Fluke 117 do it using it's amp meter? First, if you're determined (and it will take making up a special line cord to accomplish), read the MAX AMPS listing on your Fluke. That will tell you if it can handle current drawn by the unit. You can probably get away with measuring fridge if there's a slow-blow fuse on the meter, but it's dangerous to do unless you feel comfortable with wiring up a special outlet (which I did) to allow you to measure an appliance's amperage. You have to read the current draw in series, not in parallel like a voltmeter. Unless you are using a tong meter (clamp on induction measuring device) the meter needs to become part of the entire circuit. I know some are wondering how is a Fluke 117 in my hands with my lack of knowledge but let's just say that the price was too good to not buy ... and no I didn't steal it, got it on ebay new. It's a fine meter, but not so much for this job. An instantaneous reading of the current, which is all your Fluke is likely able to do, won't tell you much about weekly costs to run. That's because a fridge uses differing amounts of energy during its operational cycles. Break down and buy the Kill-a-watt. No special cords, no electrocution hazard and the ability to log readings over long periods of time to average out fluctuations. Even my meter that hooks into an RS232 port of a PC to allow logging readings can't tell you what a Kill-a-Watt can. It's the right tool for the job and it will have uses far beyond the current one. Will do and thank you !!! |
#29
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On 10 Apr 2012 17:02:49 GMT, notbob wrote:
On 2012-04-10, Doug wrote: On a side note, things that I was once told were to last so many years, more recently I'm told those same things last perhaps half (or less) as long nowadays.... ie: washing machines, hot water heaters, refrigs come to mind. That's sad in my opinion. Three things have rendered reliability out: planned obsolescence, bottom-line cheapness, disposability. It jes doesn't pay to make a long lasting quality product or repair products than be purchased new for less. No incentive for the user to purchase a new one. Seen any TV/radio repair shops, lately? Actually yes, one or two but I have no idea how much longer they'll stay in business. Maybe they sell the old repaired units to make a living???? I was willing to give my old heavy Sony away for free but they would have to drive 5 miles to get it and they said no thanks. It ended up in the garbage truck... kinda sad to see that but I wasn't willing to pay to have it fixed (assuming it was fixable). |
#30
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:35:36 -0700 (PDT), Ron
wrote: On Apr 10, 12:43*pm, "Doug" wrote: On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:42:20 -0400, "Robert Green" wrote: it. Still, if you're thrifty, it's hard to trash something that hasn't failed for a gradual payback on your electric bill. *It's so much nicer when they cooperate by dying a quick, expensive to repair, death. Agreed. *I couldn't see myself buying a big screen tv but the death of my old large heavy Sony made it a bit easy to swallow * * * * Of course I like the new tv much better but honestly if the old one was still working, I'd probably still be using it. * I'm cheap but like to say practical instead. Did you buy LCD or Plasma? LCDs use about the same amount of power or slightly more for same size screen. I had a 45" Mitsubishi RPTV that lasted me for 12 years that I replaced 2 years ago with a 50" Panasonic Plasma. The Panny uses 400 watts, as compared to the Mits that used 210 watts. Samsung model LN40D630 which I believe is a LCD. It had a sticker that based on its assumptions claimed to use about $20/yr electricity. I don't really know the real cost yet till I get the recommended equipment to measure it's real draw. |
#31
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 13:17:44 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote: "Doug" wrote in message stuff snipped Still, if you're thrifty, it's hard to trash something that hasn't failed for a gradual payback on your electric bill. It's so much nicer when they cooperate by dying a quick, expensive to repair, death. Agreed. I couldn't see myself buying a big screen tv but the death of my old large heavy Sony made it a bit easy to swallow Of course I like the new tv much better but honestly if the old one was still working, I'd probably still be using it. I'm cheap but like to say practical instead. Besides I still have 2 daughters that regardless of age, don't mind asking me for money or favors. I nursed an RCA color TV for 25 years until adjustments could no longer correct the ever-enlarging image and the ever decreasing color saturation. It was still working when I curbed it. The difference between old CRT TV's and equal sized LCD/LED units is pretty impressive. So is the picture. I agree. If you have HD programming, it even gets better on the same LCD/LED tv. |
#32
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
Robert Green wrote:
The Kill-A-Watt meter readings in my case were ... For inductive loads like motors, I wouldn't trust those consumer-grade "kill-o-watt" meters any further than I could throw them. They won't be measuring the actual power being used the same way that your utility power meter does. For electric baseboard heaters, incandescent lights, toasters, electric stoves, kettles, boilers, electric hot-water heaters - the kill-o-watt meter will work ok. For inductive loads like compressors (fridge, air conditioner, furnace fan) and especially anything with a switching power supply like your desktop computer, TV, CFL or any other fluorescent lights - forget it. |
#33
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
Home Guy wrote:
Robert Green wrote: The Kill-A-Watt meter readings in my case were ... For inductive loads like motors, I wouldn't trust those consumer-grade "kill-o-watt" meters any further than I could throw them. They won't be measuring the actual power being used the same way that your utility power meter does. For electric baseboard heaters, incandescent lights, toasters, electric stoves, kettles, boilers, electric hot-water heaters - the kill-o-watt meter will work ok. For inductive loads like compressors (fridge, air conditioner, furnace fan) and especially anything with a switching power supply like your desktop computer, TV, CFL or any other fluorescent lights - forget it. Wrong, it computes actual power. PF. Greg |
#34
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Apr 10, 11:24*am, "Robert Green"
wrote: "Doug" wrote in message Can I use a voltmeter with probes to measure what the refrig uses? Do I just measure the 2 sides of the refrig's electrical plug? *Or how do you do this measurement? No. *You need a "tong" meter and a special cord that isolates the hot from the neutral to measure only instantaneous current. It's a damn good thing the hot is seperated from the neutral. If they were connected you'd have a short. As to measuring only the instantaneous current, why would you want to do that? To figure out the electricity cost of the refrigerator you need to measure it over a reasonable period, ie a few days. That way you'll see defrost cycles, start-ups, etc. And the obvious problem with any current measurement using an amp meter is that it doesn't take into account power factor. *Or a special cord that lets you put an ammeter in series with the unit. *Most pocket meters can't handle that sort of current, anyway. *Look on your meter, if it reads amps, it should say 10 or 20A max on the jacks. *That's why the Kill-a-watt is so useful. *None of that is required. *Plus, even the cheapest ones can read power use over time in kWh which no common multimeter I know does. *The more expensive units have memories and cost computers built in, but unless you have lots of power blinks or outages, that's overkill, IMHO. -- Bobby G. |
#35
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On Apr 10, 6:46*pm, Home Guy wrote:
Robert Green wrote: The Kill-A-Watt meter readings in my case were ... For inductive loads like motors, I wouldn't trust those consumer-grade "kill-o-watt" meters any further than I could throw them. *They won't be measuring the actual power being used the same way that your utility power meter does. And you know this how? For electric baseboard heaters, incandescent lights, toasters, electric stoves, kettles, boilers, electric hot-water heaters - the kill-o-watt meter will work ok. For inductive loads like compressors (fridge, air conditioner, furnace fan) and especially anything with a switching power supply like your desktop computer, TV, CFL or any other fluorescent lights - forget it. And you know this how? |
#36
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
Ron wrote:
On Apr 10, 12:43 pm, "Doug" wrote: On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:42:20 -0400, "Robert Green" wrote: it. Still, if you're thrifty, it's hard to trash something that hasn't failed for a gradual payback on your electric bill. It's so much nicer when they cooperate by dying a quick, expensive to repair, death. Agreed. I couldn't see myself buying a big screen tv but the death of my old large heavy Sony made it a bit easy to swallow Of course I like the new tv much better but honestly if the old one was still working, I'd probably still be using it. I'm cheap but like to say practical instead. Did you buy LCD or Plasma? LCDs use about the same amount of power or slightly more for same size screen. I had a 45" Mitsubishi RPTV that lasted me for 12 years that I replaced 2 years ago with a 50" Panasonic Plasma. The Panny uses 400 watts, as compared to the Mits that used 210 watts. I can feel the energy they take when I walk by them in the store, or just put your hand on top. Led types run the coolest. Greg |
#37
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
gregz wrote: wrote: On Apr 10, 12:43 pm, wrote: On Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:42:20 -0400, "Robert Green" wrote: it. Did you buy LCD or Plasma? LCDs use about the same amount of power or slightly more for same size screen. Hi, I think LCD uses lot less power than Plasma. We have 62 in. Panny Plasma for better pictures, specially black is real black. Plasma panel generates quite a bit of heat. They have built-in fans for that. Hope my next set will be organic LED panel. |
#38
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
Doug wrote:
My thoughts too. As you pointed out, the true cost of operation is more than just the electrical useage. Personally I think I'd run the 38 year old freezer till it needed a repair and then consider saving what that repair costs and putting it toward the new unit. That's not to say the new unit will last as long but repairing (assuming the parts are still available) a 38 year old unit may be a first sign of more to come. You may stand a better chance of getting a part for a 38-year old freezer than for a five-year old one! The older freezer has fewer parts, none of which are expensive circuit boards. |
#39
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
On 4/10/2012 8:31 AM, Art Todesco wrote:
I have an approximately 38 year old upright freezer. It is working perfectly. I know door gasket is not as good at it could be, however, it seems to close pretty tight. It can be real hard to open a 2nd time after looking for something. But I know there are a lot of square feet which are acted upon by a very small vacuum. Also, if the unit is not running, like after a defrost, the magnets in the door gasket are pretty weak. Anyway, to the question. In your opinions, would it be advantageous to replace it for a new more efficient unit? How long do you think it would take it to pay off? BTW, this freezer has survived being powered off for 4 months and moved 700 miles, approximately 3 years ago. It is a little noisy, but it's been that way for 38 year, except now it is in a place were I can hear it more. Thanks to all who answered. I forgot that the Kill-a-Watt meter, which I have, did cumulative watt-hours and it also give the number of hours that the data was collected. So, I put it on yesterday afternoon. After 17 hours, it was about 2KWH. We pay 11 cents per KWH. I'll keep you all posted on the final results. |
#40
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38 year old freezer efficiency?
"Doug" wrote in message
stuff snipped I nursed an RCA color TV for 25 years until adjustments could no longer correct the ever-enlarging image and the ever decreasing color saturation. It was still working when I curbed it. The difference between old CRT TV's and equal sized LCD/LED units is pretty impressive. So is the picture. I agree. If you have HD programming, it even gets better on the same LCD/LED tv. Two exceptions. I now see how many actors/actresses have bad skin, teeth and plastic surgery scars. When watching wildlife videos reveals how even the most powerful of the beasts are plagued with insects. It's distracting to watch all the little black dots crawling around on their heads that I never noticed before. -- Bobby G. |
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