Robert Green wrote:

The Kill-A-Watt meter readings in my case were ...

For inductive loads like motors, I wouldn't trust those consumer-grade
"kill-o-watt" meters any further than I could throw them. They won't be
measuring the actual power being used the same way that your utility
power meter does.

For electric baseboard heaters, incandescent lights, toasters, electric
stoves, kettles, boilers, electric hot-water heaters - the kill-o-watt
meter will work ok.

For inductive loads like compressors (fridge, air conditioner, furnace
fan) and especially anything with a switching power supply like your
desktop computer, TV, CFL or any other fluorescent lights - forget it.