Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand to
the other ?

On 02/09/2010 14:22, N_Cook wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand to
the other ?


I'd take it as a warning

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 14:22:52 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first
but no effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I
was concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls
of acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a
rotating wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector
worked, but anyone elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone
ever glued one hand to the other ?

I glue large cuts together. From what I've heard/read Cyanoacrylate was
developed as a substitute for stitching wounds together on the
battlefield during the Vietnam war. Little wonder it bonds skin so
thoroughly. It's also used in its medical counterpart for some surgeries.

Back to gluing cuts. I was sharpening a large hunting knife and managed
to cut the side of my right thumb to the bone. Cut was about 2.5cm and I
could see bone and other structures underneath. Didn't look like I cut
anything else and my thumb still worked ok so rather than getting it
stitched I used a grade of cyano we use for guitar work. Got the bleeding
stopped, wasn't much to begin with. Applied the glue and the cut was
closed immediately. I put cloth tape around the joint so the thumb
wouldn't flex as that was where the cut occurred. A week later the cut
had healed well enough to remove the tape. Now I have a scar but it is a
straight line. Be happy to upload a pic of it.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Meat Plow wrote in message
news
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 14:22:52 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first
but no effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I
was concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls
of acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a
rotating wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector
worked, but anyone elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone
ever glued one hand to the other ?

I glue large cuts together. From what I've heard/read Cyanoacrylate was
developed as a substitute for stitching wounds together on the
battlefield during the Vietnam war. Little wonder it bonds skin so
thoroughly. It's also used in its medical counterpart for some surgeries.

Back to gluing cuts. I was sharpening a large hunting knife and managed
to cut the side of my right thumb to the bone. Cut was about 2.5cm and I
could see bone and other structures underneath. Didn't look like I cut
anything else and my thumb still worked ok so rather than getting it
stitched I used a grade of cyano we use for guitar work. Got the bleeding
stopped, wasn't much to begin with. Applied the glue and the cut was
closed immediately. I put cloth tape around the joint so the thumb
wouldn't flex as that was where the cut occurred. A week later the cut
had healed well enough to remove the tape. Now I have a scar but it is a
straight line. Be happy to upload a pic of it.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse


re sig
Its also used for the chance of CSI lifting murderer's fingerprints off the
skin off dead bodies. That is one of the reasons that a tent goes over a
body outdoors. So heaters can go inside and evaporate Cyanoacrylate in a
confined space.

From what I've heard/read, cyanoacrylate was developed as a
substitute for stitching wounds together on the battlefield during
the Vietnam war.

It was actually developed by Kodak in 1942, and was originally used to
splice film.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 07:52:48 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

From what I've heard/read, cyanoacrylate was developed as a substitute
for stitching wounds together on the battlefield during the Vietnam
war.

It was actually developed by Kodak in 1942, and was originally used to
splice film.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

Well dammit I won't have that story to tell my grand children.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 14:22:52 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor.

To dissolve cyanoacrylate you need (warm) water and patience.
Or rather: patience and warm water as the most important
ingredient should go first.

One other thing to notice: superglue may be a marble in some
cases, it has very poor resistance to water.

Anyone ever glued one hand to the other ?

We may be sloppy but not that stupid ;-)
You may however drop by the nearest convent and ask 'Why?'.

--
Kind regards,
Gerard Bok

In article ,
"N_Cook" wrote:

Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand to
the other ?

They do make a specific solvent for CA; we keep a bottle on hand at the
shop. I have no idea what's in it, but it works very well on skin and
other things, too. We do a couple of assembly jobs involving CA and by
the time you've worked with it for a few hours at a time, you're pretty
much guaranteed to have the stuff all over at least 9 of your fingers.
The solvent cleans it right up.

Physiologically it's pretty innocuous stuff. Besides gluing cuts
together well, I've heard of people mistaking it for a bottle of eye
drops, and it hasn't done any real damage. Inconvenient to have your eye
glued shut for a while though.

Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.

Anyone ever glued one hand to
the other ?

Only students of modern Zen koans.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

In article ,
Meat Plow wrote:

I glue large cuts together. From what I've heard/read Cyanoacrylate was
developed as a substitute for stitching wounds together on the
battlefield during the Vietnam war. Little wonder it bonds skin so
thoroughly. It's also used in its medical counterpart for some surgeries.

Yup... although the off-the-shelf cyanoacrylate has some amount of
toxicity to skin cells, and is not ideal for this purpose. A lot of
people do use it as an emergency / field dressing, though... I
understand that rock climbers often carry a tube.

Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate
(butyl rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells.
It's not widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary
adhesive in expensive single-use ampoules).

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

Per N_Cook:
Anyone ever glued one hand to
the other ?

IIRC, buncha years ago there was a robber somewhere who, after
robbing somebody at an ATM machine, would super glue the victim's
hands to the machine.
--
PeteCresswell

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 11:24:26 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:

In article , Meat
Plow wrote:

I glue large cuts together. From what I've heard/read Cyanoacrylate was
developed as a substitute for stitching wounds together on the
battlefield during the Vietnam war. Little wonder it bonds skin so
thoroughly. It's also used in its medical counterpart for some
surgeries.

Yup... although the off-the-shelf cyanoacrylate has some amount of
toxicity to skin cells, and is not ideal for this purpose. A lot of
people do use it as an emergency / field dressing, though... I
understand that rock climbers often carry a tube.

Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate (butyl
rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells. It's not
widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary adhesive in
expensive single-use ampoules).

Hmm I'll have to remember that. Didn't seem to prove very toxic to my
cut. Skin had mended around 10 days after. I probably wouldn't use it
if I cut my finger off though



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 14:43:29 -0400, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

Per N_Cook:
Anyone ever glued one hand to
the other ?

IIRC, buncha years ago there was a robber somewhere who, after robbing
somebody at an ATM machine, would super glue the victim's hands to the
machine.

I know of a friend's friend whose disgruntled wife fed up with his
drinking used CA to glue the man's penis to his stomach while he was
passed out drunk.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:24:26 -0700, (Dave Platt)
wrote:

Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate
(butyl rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells.
It's not widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary
adhesive in expensive single-use ampoules).

The problem is that cyanoacrylate breaks down in the body into some
toxic substances. I had surgery in 2002 where the surgeon used glue
instead of sutchers or staples, a major improvement.

I have several types in my first aid box. The easiest to get is
"Liquid Bandage" which is not cyanoacrylate based, but is good enough.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_bandage
The above URL mentions that the Band-Aid brand of liquid bandage is
cyanoacrylate based.

As for ungluing fingers, there is super glue remover. Lacking that,
acetone or hot water works.
http://www.ehow.com/how_116797_superglue-skin.html
http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html
Of course, it's kinda difficult to type these URL's if your fingers
are glued to a connector.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 02/09/2010 21:05, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

As for ungluing fingers, there is super glue remover. Lacking that,
acetone or hot water works.
http://www.ehow.com/how_116797_superglue-skin.html
http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html
Of course, it's kinda difficult to type these URL's if your fingers
are glued to a connector.


I've shortened them here if that is any assistance ;-)

http://tinyurl.com/rgzsu

http://tinyurl.com/2f8lzl

--
Adrian C

In article ,
Meat Plow wrote:

Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate (butyl
rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells. It's not
widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary adhesive in
expensive single-use ampoules).

Hmm I'll have to remember that. Didn't seem to prove very toxic to my
cut. Skin had mended around 10 days after.

I've used it in that way, as well, with no apparent adverse reactions.
I suppose different people may have different levels of sensitivity to
the stuff.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 14:17:55 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:

In article , Meat
Plow wrote:

Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate
(butyl rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells. It's
not widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary
adhesive in expensive single-use ampoules).

Hmm I'll have to remember that. Didn't seem to prove very toxic to my
cut. Skin had mended around 10 days after.

I've used it in that way, as well, with no apparent adverse reactions. I
suppose different people may have different levels of sensitivity to the
stuff.

Absolutely. My mom is very allergic to aspirin. I'm not. I think as you
said the same holds true for these type of chemicals. However in larger
amounts other than a tiny droplet or two I spread along the 2.5cm cut all
bets may be off. If you are a surgeon and are using it internally you
would want the least possibilities of toxicity. If I were out in the
field and gashed my hand wide open many miles from help I'd opt-in the
CA



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 14:22:52 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand to
the other ?


Acetone, and generally it won't hurt you if you don't inhale it all...

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:37:13 -0500, AZ Nomad wrote:

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first
but no effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I
was concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool
balls of acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with
a rotating wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector
worked, but anyone elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment. If
you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate glues
(usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought to find
a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well except
on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to see
anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

Any application that does not apply a sheer force. I use it to glue new
guitar frets into a slotted fretboard. It's a CA designed for that
application though. Also good for guitar nuts. Can't imagine something so
popular that didn't work.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:46:37 -0400, Phil Hobbs wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

I suppose if you didn't want something permenant, it might work well.

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 14:02:00 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
wrote:

Back to gluing cuts. I was sharpening a large hunting knife and managed
to cut the side of my right thumb to the bone. Cut was about 2.5cm and I
could see bone and other structures underneath. Didn't look like I cut
anything else and my thumb still worked ok so rather than getting it
stitched I used a grade of cyano we use for guitar work. Got the bleeding
stopped, wasn't much to begin with. Applied the glue and the cut was
closed immediately. I put cloth tape around the joint so the thumb
wouldn't flex as that was where the cut occurred. A week later the cut
had healed well enough to remove the tape. Now I have a scar but it is a
straight line. Be happy to upload a pic of it.

Is that a clue to your usenet nick?

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 18:52:31 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
wrote:

Hmm I'll have to remember that. Didn't seem to prove very toxic to my
cut. Skin had mended around 10 days after. I probably wouldn't use it
if I cut my finger off though

When dried, it's non-toxic. In liquid form, the volatiles are a
problem if they get to the mucus membranes. Repeated use can also
cause one to develop an allergy, with flu-like symptoms:
http://wapedia.mobi/en/Cyanoacrylates
http://wapedia.mobi/en/Cyanoacrylate#3.
I've glued a few cuts together without much difficulty. It stung a
bit when applied, but that went away rapidly.

Hmmm.... looks like the common adhesive (methyl 2-cyanoacrylate or
ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate), is different from the veterinary glue (n-Butyl
cyanoacrylate), which is different from the surgical glue (2-octyl
cyanoacrylate).

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:37:13 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:

Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I have to agree on the brittleness problem. It's so handy, that I
tend use it on items where urethane, RTV, or epoxy would be more
appropriate.

Where I've used SuperGlue successfully a
1. Custom rubber o-rings
2. Glass and ceramic repairs. I think my coffee cup has had the
handle superglued in 3 different places.
3. Hard plastic parts where the break is clean and has not been
stretched or bent. If the plastic is soft and/or bends, CA will not
work.
4. Tacking large parallel surfaces together.
5. Tacking SMD components to a PCB before soldering. A toothpick
works well as an applicator.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Meat Plow wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:37:13 -0500, AZ Nomad wrote:

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first
but no effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I
was concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool
balls of acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with
a rotating wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector
worked, but anyone elses experiences/advice for the next time?
Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment. If
you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate glues
(usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought to find
a supply of debonder in the same rack.

Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well except
on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to see
anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

Any application that does not apply a sheer force. I use it to glue new
guitar frets into a slotted fretboard. It's a CA designed for that
application though. Also good for guitar nuts. Can't imagine something so
popular that didn't work.



I collect stones. When something breaks, superglue works very well.

In article ,
Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I have to agree on the brittleness problem. It's so handy, that I
tend use it on items where urethane, RTV, or epoxy would be more
appropriate.

Thee are some newer formulations on the market which are intended
to be less brittle, and thus able to handle more impact that the
standard formulas. The one I bought (Gorilla brand) says that it's
reinforced with rubber particles. I infer that the rubber both
reduces stress within the adhesive during compression or tension (thus
reducing the tendency for cracks to start) and also helps prevent
cracks from propagating through the material once they do start.

http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/techni...pdf/tech46.pdf
has some details.

I've made my first experimental use of the Gorilla rubber-
reinforced variety, gluing a set of hardwood scales to a pocketknife
handle. I'll be quite interested to see how the knife holds up with
time. I know I'm taking a risk, not fastening the scales to the
handle with small screws... but the scales are hand-finished olive
burl and I just couldn't bear to drill holes in it.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

Any application that does not apply a sheer force.

When I worked at a hi-fi store, we used to super-glue tone-arm bases onto
the metal surface of the Lux turntable arm mount (rather than cutting screw
holes into the surface). This allowed the mount to be reused for a different
arm, simply by holding a block of wood against the tone-arm base and
striking it with a hammer.

I use it to splice "O" rings into custom sizes. If done properly [clean
single edge razor blade, square cut] holds up well as a VCR drive belt,
even in a swimming pool vacuum line leaf trap. Using a telfon "v" block
would help alignment but I've managed without.
..


"AZ Nomad" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:43:03 -1000, "John Keiser"
wrote:

I use it to splice "O" rings into custom sizes. If done properly [clean
single edge razor blade, square cut] holds up well as a VCR drive belt,
even in a swimming pool vacuum line leaf trap. Using a telfon "v" block
would help alignment but I've managed without.

The square cut (butt splice) doesn't work well. The problem is that
the hardened super glue goes across the diameter of the rubber o-ring.
If this diameter is compressed in any way, the superglue cracks, and
the o-ring falls apart. This is especially important for internal
o-ring seals, which use o-ring compression to maintain pressure. I've
done bench tests on various methods and found butt splices lacking. It
will work with a flexible adhesive, such as RTV, but not rock hard CA
glues.

Instead, try a 45 degree bevel cut. If you have an old 1/4" magnetic
tape splicer, there's usually a form and guillotine blade suitable for
the purpose. I do it without any alignment aids, which is good
enough. My favorite cutting device is a safety razor or surgeons
scalpel.

When glued at a 45 degree angle, you get a larger surface contact area
for the glue. The joint is also less in tension and more in shear,
which does make it slightly weaker. I haven't noticed any measureable
difference when I did some stretch tests. The 45 degree splice also
allows the o-ring to be compressed in almost all orientations, without
cracking the CA glue joint.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

In article ,
AZ Nomad wrote:

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I dropped my "Arkansas white" stone while putting the finishing touches
on a kitchen knife. The break was right across the middle of the 7" long
stone. I put a bit of superglue on the broken surface and pressed the
parts back together. The pieces went together so well that you can't
see, much less feel, the break. And the stone is still going strong
after more than fifteen years.

Isaac

On Sep 2, 4:37*pm, AZ Nomad wrote:

Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? *I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

Sure. It worked fine for me gluing carbide to tool steel. Far from
brittle, it was the most compliant of the three materials.
It held a ton or so of force in another application, gluing
stainless tapers together (for an ultrasonic drill tip).

Phil Hobbs wrote in message
...
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but
no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls
of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a
rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net



How do you use "just a little" with the viscosity almost of liquid helium
and coming in aluminium tubes of a gauge almost the same as tin cans it
seems impossible to squeeze out a small drop, only. I must adopt the storage
in small airtight bottle with (non cotton) sachet of activated silica gel
inside. Hopefully then it will be more amenable to squeezing out just enough
to wet a needle point to transfer to the intended.

On Fri, 3 Sep 2010 08:28:29 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

I must adopt the storage
in small airtight bottle with (non cotton) sachet of activated silica gel
inside. Hopefully then it will be more amenable to squeezing out just enough
to wet a needle point to transfer to the intended.

There's a trick. I use bottles with a stainless tube for dispensing
cyanoacrylate adhesive. Something like this.
http://www.technologylk.com/weld-on-applicator-bottle-with-needle-lk-AAB4.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mmr/mmrmkdbp.htm

As soon as you use it, the stainless tip will clog. No problem. Find
a cancer stick igniter, and heat the stainless barrel. There will be
a small puff of noxious smog as the CA burns off, and the tip is
clear.

It's quite easy to dispense just one drop with a stainless tip and
quite difficult with a CA encrusted plastic tip commonly found in the
hardware store CA products. If you want a smaller drop, try a smaller
dispenser barrel.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Noted.
I will try to upgrade my technique.



"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:43:03 -1000, "John Keiser"
wrote:

I use it to splice "O" rings into custom sizes. If done properly [clean
single edge razor blade, square cut] holds up well as a VCR drive belt,
even in a swimming pool vacuum line leaf trap. Using a telfon "v" block
would help alignment but I've managed without.

The square cut (butt splice) doesn't work well. The problem is that
the hardened super glue goes across the diameter of the rubber o-ring.
If this diameter is compressed in any way, the superglue cracks, and
the o-ring falls apart. This is especially important for internal
o-ring seals, which use o-ring compression to maintain pressure. I've
done bench tests on various methods and found butt splices lacking. It
will work with a flexible adhesive, such as RTV, but not rock hard CA
glues.

Instead, try a 45 degree bevel cut. If you have an old 1/4" magnetic
tape splicer, there's usually a form and guillotine blade suitable for
the purpose. I do it without any alignment aids, which is good
enough. My favorite cutting device is a safety razor or surgeons
scalpel.

When glued at a 45 degree angle, you get a larger surface contact area
for the glue. The joint is also less in tension and more in shear,
which does make it slightly weaker. I haven't noticed any measureable
difference when I did some stretch tests. The 45 degree splice also
allows the o-ring to be compressed in almost all orientations, without
cracking the CA glue joint.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

In article ,
"N_Cook" wrote:

Phil Hobbs wrote in message
...
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but
no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls
of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a
rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net



How do you use "just a little" with the viscosity almost of liquid helium
and coming in aluminium tubes of a gauge almost the same as tin cans it
seems impossible to squeeze out a small drop, only.

Easy; you just smear it on with your finger 8^}

Isaac

In article ,
Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Fri, 3 Sep 2010 08:28:29 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

I must adopt the storage
in small airtight bottle with (non cotton) sachet of activated silica gel
inside. Hopefully then it will be more amenable to squeezing out just enough
to wet a needle point to transfer to the intended.

There's a trick. I use bottles with a stainless tube for dispensing
cyanoacrylate adhesive. Something like this.
http://www.technologylk.com/weld-on-...le-lk-AAB4.htm

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mmr/mmrmkdbp.htm

As soon as you use it, the stainless tip will clog. No problem. Find
a cancer stick igniter, and heat the stainless barrel. There will be
a small puff of noxious smog as the CA burns off, and the tip is
clear.

It's quite easy to dispense just one drop with a stainless tip and
quite difficult with a CA encrusted plastic tip commonly found in the
hardware store CA products. If you want a smaller drop, try a smaller
dispenser barrel.

Some newer formulations can be brushed on; they don't go off as fast,
and it's a lot easier to get the joint properly aligned than it used to
be.

Also, some formulations will work fine with things like paper or
cardboard, too.

Isaac

isw wrote:
In article ,
"N_Cook" wrote:

Phil Hobbs wrote in message
...
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but
no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls
of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a
rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?
Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.

Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.
I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net


How do you use "just a little" with the viscosity almost of liquid helium
and coming in aluminium tubes of a gauge almost the same as tin cans it
seems impossible to squeeze out a small drop, only.

Easy; you just smear it on with your finger 8^}

Isaac

You put a drop of it on a bit of scrap plastic, and apply with a
toothpick--just like epoxy. If you use too much, the free surface
outgasses like mad and you wind up with white plastic snow all over
everything. There are 'low outgassing' PMMA formulations, but they're
only low by comparison.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

In article ,
"N_Cook" wrote:

Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand to
the other ?

If you had posted to one of the model plane club groups you would have
felt very much at home - in that hobby it is endemic

David - with glue free fingers at the moment

David wrote in
message news
In article ,
"N_Cook" wrote:

Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand
to
the other ?

If you had posted to one of the model plane club groups you would have
felt very much at home - in that hobby it is endemic

David - with glue free fingers at the moment


I think I will try introducing a dot of dye to the next tube I open ,as well
as store in airtight bottle with silica gel. Won't be able to change the
viscosity (lack of) but at least I might be able to see it. I was melding
part of one socket into another to make a match to a non standard plug and a
nice tight fit but that super capilliary action took the unknowing excess of
glue about half an inch travel to where there were holes to the outside,
where my fingers were.