I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.

Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
any further underlayment.

Thoughts on this?

Casper wrote:
I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.

Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
any further underlayment.

Thoughts on this?

Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
response will be the one that matters.

On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon wrote:

Casper wrote:
I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.

Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
any further underlayment.

Thoughts on this?

Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
response will be the one that matters.
ts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
"telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer of
the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a layer of
the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for laminate would
do the job???

On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
response will be the one that matters.

ts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
"telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer of
the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a layer of
the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for laminate would
do the job???

I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...

My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.

Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.

Thanks for the replies.

Casper wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
response will be the one that matters.

pts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
"telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer
of the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a
layer of the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for
laminate would do the job???

I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...

My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.

Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.


I'm not sure I'd expect telegraphing. Most vinyl flooring is at least 3/8"
thick, but even at 1/4" thick, I would not expect OSB to telegraph through.
As for your door openings, why not plane off a bit from the bottom of the
doors, if required?

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 13:33:57 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Casper wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
response will be the one that matters.

pts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
"telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer
of the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a
layer of the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for
laminate would do the job???

I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...

My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.

Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.


I'm not sure I'd expect telegraphing. Most vinyl flooring is at least 3/8"
thick, but even at 1/4" thick, I would not expect OSB to telegraph through.
As for your door openings, why not plane off a bit from the bottom of the
doors, if required?
Where are you buying your vinyl flooring to get 1/4 to 3/8 inch
thick??? My premium solid vinyl sheet flooring is MABEE 65 thou thick.
The new "premium" vinyl snap or edge=glued flooring that looks like
hardwood or tile MIGHT be 1/8" thick. That dougle layer product would
not likely telegraph, but I know from experience the .065 solid vinyl
sheet flooring can!!!

wrote:

Where are you buying your vinyl flooring to get 1/4 to 3/8 inch
thick??? My premium solid vinyl sheet flooring is MABEE 65 thou thick.
The new "premium" vinyl snap or edge=glued flooring that looks like
hardwood or tile MIGHT be 1/8" thick. That dougle layer product would
not likely telegraph, but I know from experience the .065 solid vinyl
sheet flooring can!!!

Maybe I misunderstood - I was thinking of the vinyl "boards". If you are
talking about sheet goods, then that would certainly be different. That
said - the original floor was sheet goods over OSB and as I understand the
OP - no telegraphing or other underlayment problems, so I wouldn't expect
any with a new floor.

--

-Mike-

On 07/11/2015 8:42 PM, Casper wrote:
I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.

Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
any further underlayment.

Thoughts on this?

One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
installed thickness.

You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
"manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.

--

In article , says...

On 07/11/2015 8:42 PM, Casper wrote:
I am curious if anyone has put vinyl plank flooring over osb.

Recently we removed sheet vinyl from two rooms to find it was laid
over osb and not glued down. It was there for almost twenty years,
flat as a board and no issues. I was surprised it wasn't glued. Since
the subfloor seems like new, I am trying to decide if it really needs
any further underlayment.

Thoughts on this?

One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
installed thickness.

You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
"manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.

I'm reminded of the time my Dad put down sheet vinyl on a plank floor
above a crawlspace in a house built in the '20s. First time the wind
came up that vinyl _flew_.

For some reason the concept of "underlayment" was offensive to him.
When we sold the place after he died the flying vinyl was still there.

On 07/13/2015 09:46 AM, Casper wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
response will be the one that matters.

ts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
"telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer of
the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a layer of
the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for laminate would
do the job???

I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...

My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.

Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.

Thanks for the replies.


Any of the multi-function tools are perfect for cutting clearance on the
door frame/jamb. Simply lay a piece of the intended new flooring
material next to the frame/jamb and use as a guide to cut with a saw
tool - perfect clearance. If you don't want the tool to mar the new
flooring material, lay it upside down so the back takes any damage.

--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

I'm not sure I'd expect telegraphing. Most vinyl flooring is at least 3/8"
thick, but even at 1/4" thick, I would not expect OSB to telegraph through.
As for your door openings, why not plane off a bit from the bottom of the
doors, if required?
Mike Marlow

I am not expecting telegraphing either if I use sheet viynl again as
it came that way and there was no telegraphing over the 20 years.
I've never installed sheet vinyl, only other types of flooring, and so
was considering vinyl planks for DiY ability and cost savings.

Can't plane the bottom of metal doors and I wouldn't want to try.
I don't want to try and raise the doors either.

If the flooring goes too high, I will also have issues with the under
cabinet drawers and storage spaces, which would all require
modification to continue to be useful.

I've seen different types of vinyl planking. One is more like a peel
and stick, of which I am leery. Two is a solid type that has an
attached underlayment. I'm researching both for durability, warranty,
price and ease of self-installment.

Where are you buying your vinyl flooring to get 1/4 to 3/8 inch
thick??? My premium solid vinyl sheet flooring is MABEE 65 thou thick.
The new "premium" vinyl snap or edge=glued flooring that looks like
hardwood or tile MIGHT be 1/8" thick. That dougle layer product would
not likely telegraph, but I know from experience the .065 solid vinyl
sheet flooring can!!!


I'm not buying anything to get thick. I am trying to find out how much
an underlayment would raise other types of flooring up. The total
height of any flooring, with or without underlayment is something I
need to know before I choose and buy.

I want to do this myself but I am not familiar with installation of
sheet flooring and don't want to pay someone else to install it.

Ergo maybe vinyl planks that I can self install and save.

No help fo this job. It's all me, myself and I.

Maybe I misunderstood - I was thinking of the vinyl "boards". If you are
talking about sheet goods, then that would certainly be different. That
said - the original floor was sheet goods over OSB and as I understand the
OP - no telegraphing or other underlayment problems, so I wouldn't expect
any with a new floor.
Mike Marlow

You are correct. I am looking for a DiY product that is durable,
water-resistant and won't be too high to force me to do other
modifications in the house as a result.

A friend has a Pergo laminate in thier kitchen and a 125 gallon turtle
tank across the room. Every month they refresh the water by running
hoses across the floor to drain and refill the tank. I have been
watching the laminate peel more and more at the corners and bubble up
in areas. I think that flooring was a bad choice for a kitchen. Just
saying what I am seeing.

If I can't find a suiatable DiY alternative, I will probably have more
solid sheet vinyl reinstalled professionally. Since the plan is to do
the entire house, I was hoping to save the labor cost with DiY.

One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
installed thickness.
dpb

That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
Do you know which one? Brand??

You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
"manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.

Underneath of house is a heavy Polyethylene underbelly secured to
steel girders, above which is heavy insulation. It has a space to
crawl underneath the house but you can't reach much without removing
all of that poly and insulation. There are only secured spots where
pipes and wires come through for water, electric, etc.

I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.

On 07/14/2015 1:02 PM, Casper wrote:
One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
installed thickness.
dpb

That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
Do you know which one? Brand??

You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
"manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.

Underneath of house is a heavy Polyethylene underbelly secured to
steel girders, above which is heavy insulation. It has a space to
crawl underneath the house but you can't reach much without removing
all of that poly and insulation. There are only secured spots where
pipes and wires come through for water, electric, etc.

I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.

The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced
products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there
must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it
was, specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable"
floating (not glued/stapled) styles.

Sounds as though should work just find for the application altho you'd
still want to double-check manufacturer's info for installation
guidelines and especially proscribed uses. Most are ok above grade;
it's below grade and/or directly on concrete that is the primary
moisture issue.

You don't give a location so can't judge what the climatology might be
as far as wetness factor...out here SW KS High Plains I'd have no
concern; back in coastal VA, say, well, would guess would want to not
skip the moisture barrier underlay...

--

On 07/14/2015 1:46 PM, dpb wrote:
On 07/14/2015 1:02 PM, Casper wrote:
One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
installed thickness.
dpb

That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
Do you know which one? Brand??
....
I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.

The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced
products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there
must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it was,
specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable" floating
(not glued/stapled) styles.
....

OK, the link was still in the remembered history...

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Bristol-County-Cherry-Laminate-Major-Brand-8BRC/10026409

was the one I just picked at more or less random...

--

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 13:40:56 -0400, Casper
wrote:

Where are you buying your vinyl flooring to get 1/4 to 3/8 inch
thick??? My premium solid vinyl sheet flooring is MABEE 65 thou thick.
The new "premium" vinyl snap or edge=glued flooring that looks like
hardwood or tile MIGHT be 1/8" thick. That dougle layer product would
not likely telegraph, but I know from experience the .065 solid vinyl
sheet flooring can!!!


I'm not buying anything to get thick. I am trying to find out how much
an underlayment would raise other types of flooring up. The total
height of any flooring, with or without underlayment is something I
need to know before I choose and buy.

I want to do this myself but I am not familiar with installation of
sheet flooring and don't want to pay someone else to install it.

Ergo maybe vinyl planks that I can self install and save.

No help fo this job. It's all me, myself and I.
The new "luxury vinyl" plank and tile look-alike flooring is not
terribly thick and can be self-installed - but costs significantly
more than sheet vinyl - mighr be cheaper to pay an installer than to
buy the more expensive product - - - -

On 7/13/2015 11:46 AM, Casper wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 07:27:56 -0500, Leon was heard to mutter:
Contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Only their
response will be the one that matters.

ts of "floating" solid vinyl flooring out there, as well as
perimeter glued - but OSB has enough "texture" to it that it could
"telegraph" through and show. As said - check with the manufacturer of
the new flooring. Possibly, with a new floating floor, just a layer of
the very thin high density foam used as an underlay for laminate would
do the job???

I get the 'contact manufacturer' thing...

Then you should be set.


My rooms came with sheet vinyl over OSB.
It was installed in the plant; no brand name given.

This has absolutely nothing to do with the product you said you were
think about using, vinyl plank flooring.




Due to very low door frames, I can't put down thick plywood and then
flooring. I might be able to do 1/4" ply but some floating floors come
with a pre-attached underlayment that could make it too thick. Only
thing under the carpeting is typical carpet foam over OSB.

There are simple ways with dealing with door jams, that is a common item
that has to be addressed with new floors.




Thanks for the replies.

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 13:46:37 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 07/14/2015 1:02 PM, Casper wrote:
One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
installed thickness.
dpb

That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
Do you know which one? Brand??

You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
"manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.

Underneath of house is a heavy Polyethylene underbelly secured to
steel girders, above which is heavy insulation. It has a space to
crawl underneath the house but you can't reach much without removing
all of that poly and insulation. There are only secured spots where
pipes and wires come through for water, electric, etc.

I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.

The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced
products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there
must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it
was, specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable"
floating (not glued/stapled) styles.

Sounds as though should work just find for the application altho you'd
still want to double-check manufacturer's info for installation
guidelines and especially proscribed uses. Most are ok above grade;
it's below grade and/or directly on concrete that is the primary
moisture issue.

You don't give a location so can't judge what the climatology might be
as far as wetness factor...out here SW KS High Plains I'd have no
concern; back in coastal VA, say, well, would guess would want to not
skip the moisture barrier underlay...


Click Laminate flooring is available from 6mm to 15mm thick, with
quality from abyssmal to pretty darn good in pretty well any
thickness. Price is all over the map, and sadly just because you pay
more doesn't make one better than another. The european and north
american broduct are GENERALLY better than the Chinese product (as in
just about anything) There again, just because it has a european name,
and the head office is in Sweden or wherever, does't mean the product
isn't from China!!!

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 15:21:32 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 07/14/2015 1:46 PM, dpb wrote:
On 07/14/2015 1:02 PM, Casper wrote:
One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
installed thickness.
dpb

That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
Do you know which one? Brand??
...
I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.

The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced
products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there
must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it was,
specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable" floating
(not glued/stapled) styles.
...

OK, the link was still in the remembered history...

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Bristol-County-Cherry-Laminate-Major-Brand-8BRC/10026409

was the one I just picked at more or less random...
Just about any product from Lumber Liquidators will be Chinese.
Haro is supposed to be pretty good - German.
KronoSwiss is supposed to be pretty good too. The stuff I installed
ended up being Chinese - about the only thing I can say for it was the
price was low and it was 14mm thick. It was not easy to install, and
chips easily - - - No idea what the brand was - it was sold bu a
discout flooring store locally - more or less a Lumber Liquidators
clone.

On 07/14/2015 4:23 PM, wrote:
....

Just about any product from Lumber Liquidators will be Chinese.


Haro is supposed to be pretty good - German.
KronoSwiss is supposed to be pretty good too. The stuff I installed
ended up being Chinese - about the only thing I can say for it was the
price was low and it was 14mm thick. It was not easy to install, and
chips easily - - - No idea what the brand was - it was sold bu a
discout flooring store locally - more or less a Lumber Liquidators
clone.

I make (and made) no recommendations on a specific product other than
point to the _type_ of product OP seemed to be looking for---he can
choose what he wants at a price point he's comfortable with from any
vendor he chooses...

--

On 7/14/2015 1:52 PM, Casper wrote:


You are correct. I am looking for a DiY product that is durable,
water-resistant and won't be too high to force me to do other
modifications in the house as a result.

A friend has a Pergo laminate in thier kitchen and a 125 gallon turtle
tank across the room. Every month they refresh the water by running
hoses across the floor to drain and refill the tank. I have been
watching the laminate peel more and more at the corners and bubble up
in areas. I think that flooring was a bad choice for a kitchen. Just
saying what I am seeing.

Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 20:18:17 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/14/2015 1:52 PM, Casper wrote:


You are correct. I am looking for a DiY product that is durable,
water-resistant and won't be too high to force me to do other
modifications in the house as a result.

A friend has a Pergo laminate in thier kitchen and a 125 gallon turtle
tank across the room. Every month they refresh the water by running
hoses across the floor to drain and refill the tank. I have been
watching the laminate peel more and more at the corners and bubble up
in areas. I think that flooring was a bad choice for a kitchen. Just
saying what I am seeing.

Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.
For an experienced DIYer Ceramic isn't that much more than GOOD
vinyl. costwise. A bit more work though.

Ed Pawlowski was heard to mutter:

On 7/14/2015 1:52 PM, Casper wrote:


You are correct. I am looking for a DiY product that is durable,
water-resistant and won't be too high to force me to do other
modifications in the house as a result.

A friend has a Pergo laminate in thier kitchen and a 125 gallon turtle
tank across the room. Every month they refresh the water by running
hoses across the floor to drain and refill the tank. I have been
watching the laminate peel more and more at the corners and bubble up
in areas. I think that flooring was a bad choice for a kitchen. Just
saying what I am seeing.

Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.

My friend's house came with the Pergo.

As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.

For an experienced DIYer Ceramic isn't that much more than GOOD
vinyl. costwise. A bit more work though.

I've done tile and don't want it here.

I want this floor both level and the same across the entire house.
Tile would be too cost and labor intesive.

The new "luxury vinyl" plank and tile look-alike flooring is not
terribly thick and can be self-installed - but costs significantly
more than sheet vinyl - mighr be cheaper to pay an installer than to
buy the more expensive product - - - -

I am finding relatively decent prices on LVP on th einternet but I
need to see it in person and know where it is manufactured.

I may very well go with sheet vinyl and a pro install. That would mean
I would have to find a really good local professional installer.
Reason follows...

Same friend I mentioned earlier went with a local place to lay sheet
in his guest bath and bedroom. You can see and feel every nail, bump,
etc., everywhere. A week later he showed it to me and I told him that
was a bad install, not counting the damage to his bathroom walls. He
called the place and they were completely gone. Out of business.

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 10:57:40 -0400, Casper
wrote:

The new "luxury vinyl" plank and tile look-alike flooring is not
terribly thick and can be self-installed - but costs significantly
more than sheet vinyl - mighr be cheaper to pay an installer than to
buy the more expensive product - - - -

I am finding relatively decent prices on LVP on th einternet but I
need to see it in person and know where it is manufactured.

I may very well go with sheet vinyl and a pro install. That would mean
I would have to find a really good local professional installer.
Reason follows...

Same friend I mentioned earlier went with a local place to lay sheet
in his guest bath and bedroom. You can see and feel every nail, bump,
etc., everywhere. A week later he showed it to me and I told him that
was a bad install, not counting the damage to his bathroom walls. He
called the place and they were completely gone. Out of business.
THAT is telegraphing. Sheet flooring WILL show every imperfection -
which is why I would NOT use it directly over OSB. Preparation is key.
Using a floor leveler product on the osb - basically like a real thick
paint or thin cement- to get rid of the texture first would eliminate
the need for a thick "underlay" - That's what a "professional" is for.

I only deal with companies that have been around for a good while and
have a stellar reputation if I'm paying them to do a job. If I'm just
buying product and installing it myself the company I'm buying from is
less important than the material I'm buying from them (brand and
quality)

On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
Ed Pawlowski was heard to mutter:


Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.

My friend's house came with the Pergo.

As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.


Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
products.

Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
grout.

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 18:01:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
Ed Pawlowski was heard to mutter:


Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.

My friend's house came with the Pergo.

As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.


Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
products.

FWIW, I agree with you. We have a hardwood kitchen floor in this
house and would *greatly* prefer tile. Anywhere there is water I'd
prefer tile over any other surface.

Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
grout.

Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
agree.

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 20:26:40 -0400, krw wrote:

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 18:01:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
Ed Pawlowski was heard to mutter:


Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.

My friend's house came with the Pergo.

As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.


Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
products.

FWIW, I agree with you. We have a hardwood kitchen floor in this
house and would *greatly* prefer tile. Anywhere there is water I'd
prefer tile over any other surface.

Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
grout.

Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
agree.
The "hallway" in our house is the front foyer. Nothing better than
porcelain tile for that job - or kitchen or bath.
Main floor "powder room" and kitchen in our house are solid vinyl
sheet flooring - about 15 years old and just like new. Living and
dining room are ash prefinished hardwood. Upstairs bath is a laminate
product that looks and feels like ceramic or porcelain tile, comes in
1X2 foot sections that click together, and the joints are wax sealed
so the finished floor is waterproof. Bedrooms are original narrow
strip oak hardwood. Upstairs hallway and stairs are carpetted. I'd
rather have them harswood too, but carpet is safer on the stairs.\

Basement rec room is 14mm laminate. Laundry/office is Berber carpet,
along with basement steps. I would never install the cheap
polypropylene Berber again - drag anything across it and you have a
melted streak that never comes out.

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 22:32:34 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 20:26:40 -0400, krw wrote:

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 18:01:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
Ed Pawlowski was heard to mutter:


Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.

My friend's house came with the Pergo.

As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.


Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
products.

FWIW, I agree with you. We have a hardwood kitchen floor in this
house and would *greatly* prefer tile. Anywhere there is water I'd
prefer tile over any other surface.

Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
grout.

Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
agree.
The "hallway" in our house is the front foyer. Nothing better than
porcelain tile for that job - or kitchen or bath.

Agreed. Anywhere water...

Main floor "powder room" and kitchen in our house are solid vinyl
sheet flooring - about 15 years old and just like new. Living and
dining room are ash prefinished hardwood. Upstairs bath is a laminate
product that looks and feels like ceramic or porcelain tile, comes in
1X2 foot sections that click together, and the joints are wax sealed
so the finished floor is waterproof. Bedrooms are original narrow
strip oak hardwood. Upstairs hallway and stairs are carpetted. I'd
rather have them harswood too, but carpet is safer on the stairs.\

Agreed for everything but vinyl. Hate the stuff. I have two
bathrooms and a laundry that are vinyl. I have plans to replace them
with tile. The vinyl in the laundry is torn (washer or drier caught
it at some point). As far as I'm concerned DIY tile is time consuming
but not all that difficult. It's cheaper than vinyl, too.

Basement rec room is 14mm laminate. Laundry/office is Berber carpet,
along with basement steps. I would never install the cheap
polypropylene Berber again - drag anything across it and you have a
melted streak that never comes out.

Laminate on a concrete floor? Below grade? My basement floor is
concrete and sawdust. ;-)

As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.

Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
products.
Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
grout. ...Ed Pawlowski

Don't get me wrong, tile is nice. I've had it in bathrooms and have a
couple friends who have it in their kitchens.

Let me clarify. I want my entire house to be the same across all
rooms, all floors same level. Trying to do all that in tile would be
more costly and time consuming done DiY.

On 7/15/2015 8:26 PM, krw wrote:

Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
grout.

Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
agree.



I have a raised ranch and this is on the concrete on the lower level.
Hall goes from the family room to what is my office on the other end,
stairs and bathroom in between. Originally it had horrible
indoor/outdoor carpet, then engineered hardwood that got wet a couple of
times.

Upstairs hall is carpet.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 12:55:59 -0400, krw wrote:

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 22:32:34 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 20:26:40 -0400, krw wrote:

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 18:01:59 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/15/2015 10:48 AM, Casper wrote:
Ed Pawlowski was heard to mutter:


Big budget choice would be ceramic tile. Lesser budget is vinyl sheet.
OSB sub-floor may not be suitable for ceramic though.

My friend's house came with the Pergo.

As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.


Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
products.

FWIW, I agree with you. We have a hardwood kitchen floor in this
house and would *greatly* prefer tile. Anywhere there is water I'd
prefer tile over any other surface.

Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
grout.

Not sure I want it in the hallway but if "downstairs" = "basement", I
agree.
The "hallway" in our house is the front foyer. Nothing better than
porcelain tile for that job - or kitchen or bath.

Agreed. Anywhere water...

Main floor "powder room" and kitchen in our house are solid vinyl
sheet flooring - about 15 years old and just like new. Living and
dining room are ash prefinished hardwood. Upstairs bath is a laminate
product that looks and feels like ceramic or porcelain tile, comes in
1X2 foot sections that click together, and the joints are wax sealed
so the finished floor is waterproof. Bedrooms are original narrow
strip oak hardwood. Upstairs hallway and stairs are carpetted. I'd
rather have them harswood too, but carpet is safer on the stairs.\

Agreed for everything but vinyl. Hate the stuff. I have two
bathrooms and a laundry that are vinyl. I have plans to replace them
with tile. The vinyl in the laundry is torn (washer or drier caught
it at some point). As far as I'm concerned DIY tile is time consuming
but not all that difficult. It's cheaper than vinyl, too.

Basement rec room is 14mm laminate. Laundry/office is Berber carpet,
along with basement steps. I would never install the cheap
polypropylene Berber again - drag anything across it and you have a
melted streak that never comes out.

Laminate on a concrete floor? Below grade? My basement floor is
concrete and sawdust. ;-)
The laminate is on a 1/2" plywood subfloor supported on treated 5/4
strapping laid on 30 lb felt on the concrete floor. Was originally
carpetted. Basement is heated/conditioned like the rest of the house -
no door between basement and main floor, just like between main and
upper. Humidity is always a wee bit higher in the basement. Currently
40% at 25C.

The basement carpet is on the same plywood raised floor. The raised
floor is over 40 years old and standing up well.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 13:25:27 -0400, Casper
wrote:

As for me, I don't want tile. Not on the kitchen floor.

Your choice, of course. Had it in my last house, eventually will have
it in this house. Very easy to keep clean, never needs wax or special
products.
Both bathrooms and the downstairs hallway are 12 x 12 tiles with epoxy
grout. ...Ed Pawlowski

Don't get me wrong, tile is nice. I've had it in bathrooms and have a
couple friends who have it in their kitchens.

Let me clarify. I want my entire house to be the same across all
rooms, all floors same level. Trying to do all that in tile would be
more costly and time consuming done DiY.


My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.

Laminate to carpet in the basement is less than 1/4 inch transition as
well.

The local discount flooring emporium currently has tile on at $0.67
and $0.97 per square foot, Laminate at $0.97 for the cheap stuff, and
$1.37 for the better (Krona) stuff, and hardwood from $1.97 up - lots
of it at 3.25. Installation is $1.25 per sq foot for 300 sq ft or
more.. Vinyl plank at $1.37 and Clik vinyl plank at $1.97.
Clik engineered maple hardwood $2.97.

My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.

Still a transition.

Laminate to carpet in the basement is less than 1/4 inch transition as
well.

Again, still a transition and not desired here.

The local discount flooring emporium currently has tile on at $0.67
and $0.97 per square foot, Laminate at $0.97 for the cheap stuff, and
$1.37 for the better (Krona) stuff, and hardwood from $1.97 up - lots
of it at 3.25. Installation is $1.25 per sq foot for 300 sq ft or
more.. Vinyl plank at $1.37 and Clik vinyl plank at $1.97.
Clik engineered maple hardwood $2.97.


What "local discount flooring emporium"??

Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home. I can
only find cheap VLP for $0.89 when it is on sale and again in low
quanities. Most are $1.99sq ft and up. Hardwood is over $2 sq ft and
installation starts at $2.50 and up, depending on material. Those
prices don't reflect underlayment and old material removal cost.

I was quoted for medium quality VLP, installed with underlayment, for
a cost of $6k. That includes a special 15% discount for being referred
by a friend to the owner. I left the store.

Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,. Our
community switched to a new trash company a year ago and everything
must fit in the provided can, the lid must close and you must adhere
to the weight limit. Nothing will be picked up outside the provided
can. No paints, flooring, oils, electronics, etc,. They do not provide
any recycling pickup.

Moving is not an option. In case someone was going to bring that up.

On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 21:46:08 -0400, Casper
wrote:

My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.

Still a transition.

Laminate to carpet in the basement is less than 1/4 inch transition as
well.

Again, still a transition and not desired here.

The local discount flooring emporium currently has tile on at $0.67
and $0.97 per square foot, Laminate at $0.97 for the cheap stuff, and
$1.37 for the better (Krona) stuff, and hardwood from $1.97 up - lots
of it at 3.25. Installation is $1.25 per sq foot for 300 sq ft or
more.. Vinyl plank at $1.37 and Clik vinyl plank at $1.97.
Clik engineered maple hardwood $2.97.


What "local discount flooring emporium"??

Kitchener Ontario Source Flooring. So the prices are in $0.77 dollars
too.

Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home. I can
only find cheap VLP for $0.89 when it is on sale and again in low
quanities. Most are $1.99sq ft and up. Hardwood is over $2 sq ft and
installation starts at $2.50 and up, depending on material. Those
prices don't reflect underlayment and old material removal cost.

Sucks to be an American???
Here I can haul any construction materials to the local landfill -
costs $75 per ton.

I was quoted for medium quality VLP, installed with underlayment, for
a cost of $6k. That includes a special 15% discount for being referred
by a friend to the owner. I left the store.

I can buy flooring at places like that here too. I can pay more than
that too - just need to know where to buy and where to walk.

I bought the carpet for the stairway and hall from a higher end store
- and paid their installers - with their best underlay - cost me
$1000. We bought what we wanted, not what was the cheapest.

The tile we bought for the front foyer was a bit more expensive too -
but for less than 40 square feet I told my wife not to even look at
the price - just choose the tile she wanted. Cost us less than $3 per
square foot. IIRC the ditra, thinset, and grout cost as much as the
tile.

The hardwood I bought directly from the mill for $2.35 per sq ft,
IIRC. I bought the air nailer on sale for about $50 - plus the cost of
the cleats/nails.

The transitions are all transitions - not offsets. The transition from
one level to the other is spread over about 2 inches - definitely not
a trip hazard even for someone n crutches.

I installed all of my own tile, hardwood, and laminate. (also all but
2 of my windows)

Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,. Our
community switched to a new trash company a year ago and everything
must fit in the provided can, the lid must close and you must adhere
to the weight limit. Nothing will be picked up outside the provided
can. No paints, flooring, oils, electronics, etc,. They do not provide
any recycling pickup.

I own a little pickup truck.

Moving is not an option. In case someone was going to bring that up.

On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 21:46:08 -0400, Casper
wrote:


What "local discount flooring emporium"??

Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home.

How big is your home?????

On 7/17/2015 9:46 PM, Casper wrote:
My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.

Still a transition.

The only sure way to eliminate transition is to use the same material
throughout. Even then you may have 1/16" Or spray the floor with self
leveling concrete. The 1'16" difference is barely perceptible with baby
feet or a wheelchair.

The problem with one material is there is none truly suitable for every
room.






Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,.


Sure they will, but it becomes a long term project to put the pieces in
the can every week.

In article ,
says...

My tile and hardwood are within less than 1/16 inch of the same hight
- transition to the vinyl is less than 1/4 inch.

Still a transition.

Laminate to carpet in the basement is less than 1/4 inch transition as
well.

Again, still a transition and not desired here.

The local discount flooring emporium currently has tile on at $0.67
and $0.97 per square foot, Laminate at $0.97 for the cheap stuff, and
$1.37 for the better (Krona) stuff, and hardwood from $1.97 up - lots
of it at 3.25. Installation is $1.25 per sq foot for 300 sq ft or
more.. Vinyl plank at $1.37 and Clik vinyl plank at $1.97.
Clik engineered maple hardwood $2.97.


What "local discount flooring emporium"??

Every local place I have been to has no tile that cheap except small
leftover lots that would be insufficient to do an entire home. I can
only find cheap VLP for $0.89 when it is on sale and again in low
quanities. Most are $1.99sq ft and up. Hardwood is over $2 sq ft and
installation starts at $2.50 and up, depending on material. Those
prices don't reflect underlayment and old material removal cost.

I was quoted for medium quality VLP, installed with underlayment, for
a cost of $6k. That includes a special 15% discount for being referred
by a friend to the owner. I left the store.

Our trash pickup company will not take carpet, tile, etc,. Our
community switched to a new trash company a year ago and everything
must fit in the provided can, the lid must close and you must adhere
to the weight limit. Nothing will be picked up outside the provided
can. No paints, flooring, oils, electronics, etc,. They do not provide
any recycling pickup.

Moving is not an option. In case someone was going to bring that up.

Does kind of suck. Do your spring cleaning and the options are to store
it for several weeks or rent a dumpster.

And how is it the old guy who used to ride on the back of the truck was
able to lift so much more than the hydraulic arm anyway?