I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think $200 is a fair asking price?

wrote:
I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think $200 is a fair asking price?
Your price sounds fair enough. Your dilemma may be that there just
doesn't seem to be as much demand for radial arm saws as in the past.
Couldn't you find any reference prices on craigslist? Since you got it
for free, it sounds like you can afford to let it go cheap (which is
what will probably happen). Good luck!

Bill wrote:
wrote:
I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was
going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as
it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think
$200 is a fair asking price?
Your price sounds fair enough. Your dilemma may be that there just
doesn't seem to be as much demand for radial arm saws as in the past.

Wikipedia says the arrival of the miter saw is largely responsible. But
still points out some advantages that a RAS has over a TS.

wrote:

I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was
going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as
it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think
$200 is a fair asking price?

Your best best is to do some Craigslist and ebay searches to see what these
things are going for these days. A lot of people may may have fond memories
of maches, but that does not mean you can get the kind of money that fond
memories suggest. Reality is a whole 'nother thing. Best to look and see
what other people are getting for like items. Unfortunately, some machines
that seem like they should command more, just don't. A lot does depend on
where you are, too.

--

-Mike-

Throw out a price.....200.00
I have an old Sears Radical Arm Saw....
It still sits in my shop and I never use it.
Although they do have some interesting adaptions I always liked.
They are quite dangerous, and can be lethal in the wrong hands....
john

wrote in message
...

I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was going to
put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as it is an older
model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think $200 is a fair asking
price?

On 3/23/2014 10:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
wrote:
I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was
going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as
it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think
$200 is a fair asking price?
Your price sounds fair enough. Your dilemma may be that there just
doesn't seem to be as much demand for radial arm saws as in the past.

Wikipedia says the arrival of the miter saw is largely responsible. But
still points out some advantages that a RAS has over a TS.


I have both and I wouldn't part with my Radial Arm saw.

On 3/25/2014 12:06 PM, Max wrote:
On 3/23/2014 10:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
wrote:
I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was
going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as
it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think
$200 is a fair asking price?
Your price sounds fair enough. Your dilemma may be that there just
doesn't seem to be as much demand for radial arm saws as in the past.

Wikipedia says the arrival of the miter saw is largely responsible. But
still points out some advantages that a RAS has over a TS.


I have both and I wouldn't part with my Radial Arm saw.


+1

--

Digger
Bob O'Dell

wrote in message

I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was
cleaning out. Was going to put it on Craigslist but had
no idea what to ask for it as it is an older model and I
know they are expensive new. Do u think $200 is a fair
asking price?

It would be more than I would pay for that saw. If you want to go to Kent,
WA, you can buy one for $45 on Craig's List; if you want to go to Maryland,
there is one for $300.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"Max" wrote in message
b.com
On 3/23/2014 10:04 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
wrote:
I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was
cleaning out. Was going to put it on Craigslist but
had no idea what to ask for it as it is an older
model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think
$200 is a fair asking price?
Your price sounds fair enough. Your dilemma may be
that there just doesn't seem to be as much demand for
radial arm saws as in the past.

Wikipedia says the arrival of the miter saw is largely
responsible. But still points out some advantages that
a RAS has over a TS.

I have both and I wouldn't part with my Radial Arm saw.

Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw when you
need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.

--

-Mike-

On 3/25/2014 2:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.

The radial'll handle much heavier/larger work while the SCMS can be left
to deal w/ what it's for--detail stuff/precision.

I've an old Rockwell 16" RAS in a long bench and while it can be tuned
to be as precise as one wants, my main use for it is roughing out where
I really don't care but to the nearest inch or so, usually.

Occasionally when working on something large (architectural, usually,
not furniture-like) it'll get a finer blade and settings rechecked for a
precise cut but that's not it's primary job.

The little 10" B&D's are ok but generally just aren't rugged enough for
heavy work...Dad had one of them and I had one for a number of years as
my first and for quite a while only power tool and I did a lot of work
with it but it was always with a fair amount of continual tuning.

I used it for everything from roughing out to jointing to shaping for
probably three years or so before I got the first old Craftsman jointer
and small 1/2" shaper...

The fear of the RAS is grossly over-exaggerated imo.

--

dpb wrote:
On 3/25/2014 2:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type
of work.

The radial'll handle much heavier/larger work while the SCMS can be
left to deal w/ what it's for--detail stuff/precision.

So - I'd have to wonder what that means. My 12" SCMS will handle any width
of wood that I can imagine working with, but maybe you mean something else.
Of course - it cannot rip, but that's what my table saw is for.


I've an old Rockwell 16" RAS in a long bench and while it can be tuned
to be as precise as one wants, my main use for it is roughing out
where I really don't care but to the nearest inch or so, usually.

Which really confuses me. That does not sound like it is a better tool than
a SCMS.


The little 10" B&D's are ok but generally just aren't rugged enough
for heavy work...Dad had one of them and I had one for a number of
years as my first and for quite a while only power tool and I did a
lot of work with it but it was always with a fair amount of continual
tuning.

First off - B&D - not a good standard for conversation. Then... 10" - I
never thought that there would be such a difference between 10" and 12"
until I moved to a 12" SCMS. What a world of difference. As for the tuning
requirement - that's what got me to buy a new SCMS. My 10" Craftsman just
could not be tuned to a reliable level. So - I bought a new one and went to
12". I cannot begin to express how much more reliable and repeatable this
saw is than my Craftsman ever was. It's like going to an entirely different
tool.


The fear of the RAS is grossly over-exaggerated imo.

I agree on that point. I just don't see the need for an RAS in this day and
age of SCMS.

--

-Mike-

On 3/25/2014 4:05 PM, dpb wrote:
On 3/25/2014 2:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of
work.

The radial'll handle much heavier/larger work while the SCMS can be left
to deal w/ what it's for--detail stuff/precision.

I've an old Rockwell 16" RAS in a long bench and while it can be tuned
to be as precise as one wants, my main use for it is roughing out where
I really don't care but to the nearest inch or so, usually.

Occasionally when working on something large (architectural, usually,
not furniture-like) it'll get a finer blade and settings rechecked for a
precise cut but that's not it's primary job.

The little 10" B&D's are ok but generally just aren't rugged enough for
heavy work...Dad had one of them and I had one for a number of years as
my first and for quite a while only power tool and I did a lot of work
with it but it was always with a fair amount of continual tuning.

I used it for everything from roughing out to jointing to shaping for
probably three years or so before I got the first old Craftsman jointer
and small 1/2" shaper...

The fear of the RAS is grossly over-exaggerated imo.

--

Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When I
moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it, and
quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward me
b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did. But luckily they were not
in the path, but it was totally unexpected. It pushed out harder than
ever b4. I don't consider the sliding miter to be a precision cutting
machine. I consider it roughing as well. I do sometimes use it for
finish cuts.. but not since I broke mine.. Now i want a new one.. but
not bad enough yet.

--
Jeff

On 3/25/2014 1:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.


I'm on my third SCMS (Milwaukee 6955-20) and I have yet to own one that
gives me the splinter free cuts that my RAS does.

1st one was an 8" Bosch, 2nd another Bosch but 10".

I blamed the blades until I replaced the blade on the 10" with a Forrest
blade; much better but still not as good as the RAS (with a Forrest)
I only do straight (90°) cross cuts on the RAS and use the Milwaukee for
miters.

As usual...YMMV. ;-)

On 3/25/2014 2:05 PM, dpb wrote:

The fear of the RAS is grossly over-exaggerated imo.

My 30 some odd years of experience with an RAS leads me to agree.

woodchucker wrote:

Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When I
moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it, and
quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward me
b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did.

I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were possible,
then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong place to start
with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me that most of the
complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposed
to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for
ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.



--

-Mike-

Max wrote:
On 3/25/2014 1:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type
of work.

I'm on my third SCMS (Milwaukee 6955-20) and I have yet to own one
that gives me the splinter free cuts that my RAS does.


Holy Cow - this really has to be a blade or a saw thing. I bought a HF 12"
SCMS and I have no complaint at all about splinters, etc. Absolutely smooth
cuts, dead on cut.



As usual...YMMV. ;-)

Yup - aint that just the way it seems to go...

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote

.. It seems to me that most of the
complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as
opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for
ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.

Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited
activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.
--
Jim in NC


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woodchucker wrote:

Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When
I
moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it, and
quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward
me
b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did.
---------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:


I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were
possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong
place to start with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me
that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad
user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except
for turning the saw for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has
some inherant problems.
----------------------------------------------------
If you ever take a WMT (Wood Mfg Technology) class at Cerritos
Community College, you will find a single 16" RAS that has been around
for a few years.

The ONLY thing you are allowed to do with it is cross cut rough
stock to rough length.

Makes a lot of sense to me.

BTW, they replaced 8-9 Unisaw, General, PM66 table saws a
couple of years ago.

Lew

On 03/25/2014 04:28 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Mike Marlow" wrote

. It seems to me that most of the
complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as
opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw
for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.

Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited
activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.

I really don't understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 03/25/2014 05:13 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 03/25/2014 04:28 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Mike Marlow" wrote

. It seems to me that most of the
complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as
opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw
for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.

Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited
activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.

I really don't understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.


That'd be "hand wringing"


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

"Doug Winterburn" wrote I really don't
understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.


That'd be "hand wringing"

All you need is a board with some wild grain, that releases the strain as
the cut is almost complete, and have it spring into the blade and have it
try to pull your hand into the blade.


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On 03/25/2014 09:05 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Doug Winterburn" wrote I really don't
understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.


That'd be "hand wringing"

All you need is a board with some wild grain, that releases the strain
as the cut is almost complete, and have it spring into the blade and
have it try to pull your hand into the blade.

---
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protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

How can your hand be pulled into the blade when you are feeding against
the blade rotation? If anything, the blade would try to push the wood
back against the direction of feed.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

"Mike Marlow" writes:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.

One area where a RAS beats the SCMS is when crosscutting dadoes.

On 3/25/14, 4:45 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
woodchucker wrote:

Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When
I moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it,
and quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race
toward me b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did.

I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were
possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong
place to start with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me that
most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user
practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for
turning the saw for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some
inherant problems.


Very true. I see the same bad technique used with SCMS all the time...
even on those TV shows when in the hands of these purported "experts."

A SCMS has the same obvious inherent problems but they are one of the
most popular tools made and used today.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 3/25/14, 7:34 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 03/25/2014 05:13 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 03/25/2014 04:28 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Mike Marlow" wrote

. It seems to me that most of the
complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as
opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw
for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.

Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited
activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.

I really don't understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.


That'd be "hand wringing"



How about the period at the end of your sentence?

(This was about as useless and condescending as your post.)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 3/26/2014 11:06 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/25/14, 4:45 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
woodchucker wrote:

Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When
I moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it,
and quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race
toward me b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did.

I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were
possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong
place to start with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me that
most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user
practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for
turning the saw for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some
inherant problems.


Very true. I see the same bad technique used with SCMS all the time...
even on those TV shows when in the hands of these purported "experts."

A SCMS has the same obvious inherent problems but they are one of the
most popular tools made and used today.



Not true. With an SCMS you are pushing the blade against the rotation.

When using a radial arm saw, you are climb cutting.

Funny I had no problems ripping or cross cutting. It was the dado that
made me realize the danger. I always had a healthy respect for the RAS,
since the blade was fully exposed. And it was the first time the saw
showed me how much power it had when it pushed right out to me. The cut
didn't seem to deep, but it bit and just ran right out.

It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb cutting.

--
Jeff

On 3/25/14, 11:05 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Doug Winterburn" wrote I really don't
understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.


That'd be "hand wringing"

All you need is a board with some wild grain, that releases the strain
as the cut is almost complete, and have it spring into the blade and
have it try to pull your hand into the blade.


Why is your hand in the path of the blade?
Same thing could be said of the table saw.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 3/26/14, 10:11 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/26/2014 11:06 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/25/14, 4:45 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
woodchucker wrote:

Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool.
When I moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set
in it, and quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had
it race toward me b4. but I could have lost fingers when it
did.

I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were
possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the
wrong place to start with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems
to me that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of
really bad user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the
saw - except for turning the saw for ripping.Then... I do believe
the saw has some inherant problems.


Very true. I see the same bad technique used with SCMS all the
time... even on those TV shows when in the hands of these purported
"experts."

A SCMS has the same obvious inherent problems but they are one of
the most popular tools made and used today.



Not true. With an SCMS you are pushing the blade against the
rotation.

When using a radial arm saw, you are climb cutting.

Funny I had no problems ripping or cross cutting. It was the dado
that made me realize the danger. I always had a healthy respect for
the RAS, since the blade was fully exposed. And it was the first time
the saw showed me how much power it had when it pushed right out to
me. The cut didn't seem to deep, but it bit and just ran right out.

It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb
cutting.


I should've been more clear. I see people using SCMS with a pulling
cut, just like a RAS. In that case, they are acting in the same way,
probably making the SCMS even more dangerous since it can climb towards
you and up.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 3/26/2014 7:32 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
"Mike Marlow" writes:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.

One area where a RAS beats the SCMS is when crosscutting dadoes.


Ya'll got more huevos that I do. I would *never* use a dado on a RAS.

Scott Lurndal wrote:
"Mike Marlow" writes:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type
of work.

One area where a RAS beats the SCMS is when crosscutting dadoes.

Up to the point where you're working with extremely wide boards, I don't see
this being the case. I can easily set the depth of my SCMS to plow dados up
to 14" wide.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" writes:
Scott Lurndal wrote:
"Mike Marlow" writes:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type
of work.

One area where a RAS beats the SCMS is when crosscutting dadoes.

Up to the point where you're working with extremely wide boards, I don't see
this being the case. I can easily set the depth of my SCMS to plow dados up
to 14" wide.

I don't believe that the arbor on my DeWalt 12" SCMS is long enough to
mount a dado blade, unlike the RAS.

I suppose one could make repeated cuts with the SCMS, but not on a 14"
wide panel side.

On Wed, 26 Mar 2014 11:11:58 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

Not true. With an SCMS you are pushing the blade against the rotation.

When using a radial arm saw, you are climb cutting.

Funny I had no problems ripping or cross cutting. It was the dado that
made me realize the danger. I always had a healthy respect for the RAS,
since the blade was fully exposed. And it was the first time the saw
showed me how much power it had when it pushed right out to me. The cut
didn't seem to deep, but it bit and just ran right out.

It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb cutting.

Was the dado sharp? Just wondering if you had figured anything out as
to why.

Mark

On 3/26/2014 1:43 PM, Markem wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2014 11:11:58 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

Not true. With an SCMS you are pushing the blade against the rotation.

When using a radial arm saw, you are climb cutting.

Funny I had no problems ripping or cross cutting. It was the dado that
made me realize the danger. I always had a healthy respect for the RAS,
since the blade was fully exposed. And it was the first time the saw
showed me how much power it had when it pushed right out to me. The cut
didn't seem to deep, but it bit and just ran right out.

It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb cutting.

Was the dado sharp? Just wondering if you had figured anything out as
to why.

Mark


It was brand new at that point.
I figured for the width it was too much even though the depth was
shallow, it give it a lot of bite. Not an issue with a table saw...
but big issue with a RAS.

This was 12-13 years ago, so the result is fresh, but the details less
than.. I had planned on taking multiple cuts to get to depth, but that
did not happen. I wound up if I remember doing the rest w/o a dado, and
just went full depth and chiseled the waste.. but hell if it didn't get
some notice...


--
Jeff

Scott Lurndal wrote:
"Mike Marlow" writes:
Scott Lurndal wrote:
"Mike Marlow" writes:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table
saw when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type
of work.

One area where a RAS beats the SCMS is when crosscutting dadoes.

Up to the point where you're working with extremely wide boards, I
don't see this being the case. I can easily set the depth of my
SCMS to plow dados up to 14" wide.

I don't believe that the arbor on my DeWalt 12" SCMS is long enough to
mount a dado blade, unlike the RAS.

I suppose one could make repeated cuts with the SCMS, but not on a 14"
wide panel side.

You are correct - I cannot mount a dado blade. But I can make repeated
cuts, and I'm not opposed to doing that. On my SCMS, I can cut a 14"
board. Not all SCMS's will make that width of cut.

--

-Mike-

On Wed, 26 Mar 2014 11:11:58 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 3/26/2014 11:06 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/25/14, 4:45 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
woodchucker wrote:

Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When
I moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it,
and quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race
toward me b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did.

I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were
possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong
place to start with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me that
most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user
practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for
turning the saw for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some
inherant problems.


Very true. I see the same bad technique used with SCMS all the time...
even on those TV shows when in the hands of these purported "experts."

A SCMS has the same obvious inherent problems but they are one of the
most popular tools made and used today.



Not true. With an SCMS you are pushing the blade against the rotation.

When using a radial arm saw, you are climb cutting.

Funny I had no problems ripping or cross cutting. It was the dado that
made me realize the danger. I always had a healthy respect for the RAS,
since the blade was fully exposed. And it was the first time the saw
showed me how much power it had when it pushed right out to me. The cut
didn't seem to deep, but it bit and just ran right out.

I had my Craftsman come at me twice and stopped *dead* once (with a
bent blade), when crosscutting. Scared the bejesuz out of me all
three times.

It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb cutting.

Yep. My hands were well out of the way but it was still time for new
shorts.

"-MIKE-" wrote

I should've been more clear. I see people using SCMS with a pulling
cut, just like a RAS. In that case, they are acting in the same way,
probably making the SCMS even more dangerous since it can climb towards
you and up.


--
I disagree with using a SCMS as a push cut. When you do that, the blade is
trying to lift the workpiece off of the bed, and bind it against the fence,
and throwing it. It is much easier to control a climb cut, than to risk
throwing a chunk of wood. Really the best cut is made without splinters by
climb cutting the surface, then push cutting the rest of the way through.
--
Jim in NC


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"Max" wrote

Ya'll got more huevos that I do. I would *never* use a dado on a RAS.

It is not that difficult to control. I have cut many 3/4" dados in pine 4 x
4's, 1 3/4" deep. You have to simply be ready to control the feed rate.
--
Jim in NC


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On 3/26/2014 10:42 PM, Morgans wrote:


"-MIKE-" wrote

I should've been more clear. I see people using SCMS with a pulling
cut, just like a RAS. In that case, they are acting in the same way,
probably making the SCMS even more dangerous since it can climb towards
you and up.


--
I disagree with using a SCMS as a push cut. When you do that, the blade
is trying to lift the workpiece off of the bed, and bind it against the
fence, and throwing it. It is much easier to control a climb cut, than
to risk throwing a chunk of wood. Really the best cut is made without
splinters by climb cutting the surface, then push cutting the rest of
the way through.

You can disagree all you want, but that's how it's designed, and that's
how it should be used.

Climb cutting is always risky. Routers, tablesaws, radial arm saw.

Now how do you figure that you risk throwing the wood as it binds
against the fence???? if you have too much hook, it will lift the wood.
if you are not against the fence it will throw the wood.

if you put the wood against the fence and clamp it down, you will have a
good safe cut. even with a blade that has too much hook.

You don't have to clamp it, you can have the clamp prevent lifting by
just hovering above the wood.

Regardless, the saw is designed to be used w/o a climb cut.


--
Jeff

On 3/26/2014 8:46 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Max" wrote

Ya'll got more huevos that I do. I would *never* use a dado on a RAS.

It is not that difficult to control. I have cut many 3/4" dados in pine
4 x 4's, 1 3/4" deep. You have to simply be ready to control the feed
rate.

Generally speaking, if there are other ways to accomplish the task I'll
pick what I deem to be the safest. ;-)