On 3/25/2014 4:05 PM, dpb wrote:
On 3/25/2014 2:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dadiOH wrote:


Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of
work.

The radial'll handle much heavier/larger work while the SCMS can be left
to deal w/ what it's for--detail stuff/precision.

I've an old Rockwell 16" RAS in a long bench and while it can be tuned
to be as precise as one wants, my main use for it is roughing out where
I really don't care but to the nearest inch or so, usually.

Occasionally when working on something large (architectural, usually,
not furniture-like) it'll get a finer blade and settings rechecked for a
precise cut but that's not it's primary job.

The little 10" B&D's are ok but generally just aren't rugged enough for
heavy work...Dad had one of them and I had one for a number of years as
my first and for quite a while only power tool and I did a lot of work
with it but it was always with a fair amount of continual tuning.

I used it for everything from roughing out to jointing to shaping for
probably three years or so before I got the first old Craftsman jointer
and small 1/2" shaper...

The fear of the RAS is grossly over-exaggerated imo.

--

Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When I
moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it, and
quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward me
b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did. But luckily they were not
in the path, but it was totally unexpected. It pushed out harder than
ever b4. I don't consider the sliding miter to be a precision cutting
machine. I consider it roughing as well. I do sometimes use it for
finish cuts.. but not since I broke mine.. Now i want a new one.. but
not bad enough yet.

--
Jeff