I have a Harbor Freight 8 gallon 120PSI compressor that has paid for
itself half a dozen times over just in fees saved for blowing out my
sprinkler system.

I use it intensely once a year for sprinkler blowout (9 zones x 6
repeats per zone) and about 1-2 times per month for light project use
(usually just fills the tank a couple of times).

The compressor takes about 25oz of 30 weight non-detergent oil.
The oil level seems to remain pretty steady in the window.

- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?

- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "special"
compressor oil of that weight?

Thanks

"blueman" wrote in message
...
I have a Harbor Freight 8 gallon 120PSI compressor that has paid for
itself half a dozen times over just in fees saved for blowing out my
sprinkler system.

I use it intensely once a year for sprinkler blowout (9 zones x 6
repeats per zone) and about 1-2 times per month for light project use
(usually just fills the tank a couple of times).

The compressor takes about 25oz of 30 weight non-detergent oil.
The oil level seems to remain pretty steady in the window.

- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?

- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "special"
compressor oil of that weight?

Thanks



I change mine (30 gallon Craftsman) once a year but I use it much more than
you seem to.
Air compressor oil isn't that expensive and you don't need much so why not
use it.
I should mention that I live in a dry climate (El Paso, TX) and as a
consequence don't get much moisture in the tank (or the oil)

Max

"blueman" wrote

- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "special"
compressor oil of that weight?

Thanks


At work we change oil about every 1200 to 1500 hours. I don't think you are
close to that. Compressors don't get contamination the way internal
combustion engines do so the oil will last much longer. You don't need
special oil as regular 30 weight is recommended by the factory.

blueman wrote:


- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

Should you read your owner's manual?


- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?


I bet that manual may just answer this question...

- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
"special" compressor oil of that weight?


You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" writes:

blueman wrote:


- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

Should you read your owner's manual?


- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?


I bet that manual may just answer this question...

Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original $99
purchase price many times over just in the savings from not having to
call the sprinkler blowout guy)


- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
"special" compressor oil of that weight?


You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?

You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

My compressor is very lightly used, so I have yet to change the oil
on it in the last 3 years. I figured as soon as it started showing a
little bit of dirt or cloudiness, then it's time for a change.
However, on my next change, I wanted to use something that is the
really good stuff.

Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?

Angello

"Angello Huong" wrote

Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?

Angello

Yes, it is better. Use a synthetic compressor oil as opposed to an
automotive oil. Expect to pay $50+ a gallon.

Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?

Angello

Absolutely. We just rebuilt a larger Dayton compressor and they (Dayton?)
scamed us when we ordered the new head, etc. They said to use their special
oil and when we ordered it, we received Mobile 1 synthetic from them.

Simply said, it's lubricant. If it is the same weight, can take the heat
(less than a combustion engine) and lubricates the moving parts without
foaming, it's good to go.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "special"
compressor oil of that weight?

Yes. Synthetic is even better and still less expensive than the stuff they
will sell you.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

blueman wrote:


Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original
$99 purchase price many times over just in the savings from not
having to call the sprinkler blowout guy)

Got it. I understand that. Is yours the $99 little horizontal tank
compressor? My son bought one of those and it has been a champ for what he
uses it for. Mostly air nailer stuff. It too was well worth the price.



- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
"special" compressor oil of that weight?


You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would
use something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really
good enough.

Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?

I don't really know. My compressor recommends Mobil 1 and I never bothered
to worry about detergent or non detergent.

--

-Mike-

Angello Huong wrote:
You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would
use something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really
good enough.

My compressor is very lightly used, so I have yet to change the oil
on it in the last 3 years. I figured as soon as it started showing a
little bit of dirt or cloudiness, then it's time for a change.
However, on my next change, I wanted to use something that is the
really good stuff.

Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?


My compressor is a commercial compressor from CH and it specifically
recommends Mobil 1. For the occassional use that most smaller compressor
see, I don't believe you hit the point of worrying about which oil is really
better - they just don't get used hard enough to make it matter. If you
think about how long dead dinosaurs will perform in your car (been validated
to still be effective at 10,000 miles), then it's safe to assume your
compressor would be equally safe with dino oil. Your car certainly suffers
harsher conditions than your compressor does.

--

-Mike-

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
....
... You don't need
special oil as regular 30 weight is recommended by the factory.

OP does _NOT_ want "regular" automotive 30W; definitely need a
non-detergent oil.

--

Mike Marlow wrote:
....

I don't really know. My compressor recommends Mobil 1 and I never bothered
to worry about detergent or non detergent.

Synthetics aren't quite the same.

Conventional detergent oils (common motor oils) are generally proscribed
by every compressor manufacturer recommendation/specification I've ever
seen...

--

On Nov 1, 8:33*am, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote:
- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use the
*oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy "special"
*compressor oil of that weight?

Yes. *Synthetic is even better and still less expensive than the stuff they
will sell you.
--

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills:http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills:http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping:http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site:http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS:http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER:http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK:http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

I personally witnessed:
Run the engine up to temperature on a wheel-driven dyno take a sample
and print.
Without delay, change to synthetic.
Run the engine up to temperature on same dyno, half hour later, sample
and print.
It was a 1996 Safari van, with a 4.3l with 240,000+ miles of Michigan
driving on it.
No idea who owned it, I was next door buying some parts and I was, as
usual, poking my nose around the corner to see what these crazies were
up to that day. (WHO can stay away from a speed shop?)
133 HP to 137 HP.
I doubt it would show up on the quarter mile time, but hey, I was
surprised.

No regular oil for these guys:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...ubaru_jump.jpg

But I digress.

Over the years, I always changed the oil on any of my compressors
every 6 months. Why not? It's not that those crank-cases hold gallons
of the stuff...and yes, synthetic for the last 10+ years.

On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 23:19:26 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

blueman wrote:


- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

Should you read your owner's manual?


- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?


I bet that manual may just answer this question...

- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
"special" compressor oil of that weight?


You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

I have the 3hp/21gal model and the manual calls for oil at 500 hours
or annually, whichever comes first.

I prefer to use Castrol GTX annually.

--
Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises.
-- Demosthenes

On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 00:02:38 -0400, blueman wrote:

"Mike Marlow" writes:

blueman wrote:


- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

Should you read your owner's manual?


- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?


I bet that manual may just answer this question...

Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original $99
purchase price many times over just in the savings from not having to
call the sprinkler blowout guy)

Most of their (larger) compressor manuals call for annual oil changes.
I just checked the 1-3/4hp, 3hp 5gal, and 3hp 21gal.


- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
"special" compressor oil of that weight?


You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?

That's overkill. Spend ten bucks on a gallon of Castrol and it'll
last you 5 years or so.

--
Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises.
-- Demosthenes

On Nov 1, 9:19*am, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 00:02:38 -0400, blueman wrote:
"Mike Marlow" writes:

blueman wrote:

- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

Should you read your owner's manual?

- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
*replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?

I bet that manual may just answer this question...

Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original $99
purchase price many times over just in the savings from not having to
call the sprinkler blowout guy)

Most of their (larger) compressor manuals call for annual oil changes.
I just checked the 1-3/4hp, 3hp 5gal, and 3hp 21gal.

- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
*the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
*"special" compressor oil of that weight?

You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. *I would use
something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?

That's overkill. *Spend ten bucks on a gallon of Castrol and it'll
last you 5 years or so.


But, but, but the use of regular oil doesn't help us to disconnect
from those greedy exporting countries!!! *he preaches with passion and
thumps his desk*

In article ,
says...

You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. I would use
something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

My compressor is very lightly used, so I have yet to change the oil
on it in the last 3 years. I figured as soon as it started showing a
little bit of dirt or cloudiness, then it's time for a change.
However, on my next change, I wanted to use something that is the
really good stuff.

Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?

(1) While it doesn't need it, changing the oil will do no harm so if it
makes you feel better, do it. Typically you'd change it once ever six
months to a year in 8 hour a day 5 day a week operation.

(2) If it's a job-site compressor run in freezing weather, synthetic is
probably a good idea. If it's a shop compressor normally run at room
temperature there's no point to it. Again though, it does no harm, so
if it makes you feel better, use it.

"Mike Marlow" writes:
blueman wrote:


Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original
$99 purchase price many times over just in the savings from not
having to call the sprinkler blowout guy)

Got it. I understand that. Is yours the $99 little horizontal tank
compressor? My son bought one of those and it has been a champ for what he
uses it for. Mostly air nailer stuff. It too was well worth the price.


I paid about $99 for the 8 Gallon (horizontal) 125PSI compressor
(#90385) though that model is no longer made. It has been quite the
champ.

writes:
On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 00:02:38 -0400, blueman wrote:

"Mike Marlow" writes:

blueman wrote:


- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

Should you read your owner's manual?


- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?


I bet that manual may just answer this question...

Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist

The information is in the manual on page 15.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/man...5999/95386.pdf

Thanks I have an older model (#90385) which doesn't have that in the
manual (and indeed it only even goes up to page 12!)

In article ,
Robatoy wrote:
....snipped...
I personally witnessed:
Run the engine up to temperature on a wheel-driven dyno take a sample
and print.
Without delay, change to synthetic.
Run the engine up to temperature on same dyno, half hour later, sample
and print.
...snipped...
133 HP to 137 HP.
I doubt it would show up on the quarter mile time, but hey, I was
surprised.


There may well be something to that, but it would not be unusual to
have a 4hp variation between runs even if NOTHING changed.





--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

On Mon, 1 Nov 2010 06:33:53 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Nov 1, 9:19*am, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 00:02:38 -0400, blueman wrote:
"Mike Marlow" writes:

blueman wrote:

- Should the oil be replaced at regular intervals?

Should you read your owner's manual?

- If so, is there a good general rule of thumb for how freqently to
*replace (either in terms of calendar time or usage)?

I bet that manual may just answer this question...

Unfortunately not - it's a Harbor Freight so manual = minimalist
(though as I said in my original post I have paid back the original $99
purchase price many times over just in the savings from not having to
call the sprinkler blowout guy)

Most of their (larger) compressor manuals call for annual oil changes.
I just checked the 1-3/4hp, 3hp 5gal, and 3hp 21gal.

- Also the manual says use "30 weight non-detergent oil". Can I use
*the oil so labeled at an auto parts store or do I still need to buy
*"special" compressor oil of that weight?

You can indeed use the motor oil in the auto parts stores. *I would use
something like Mobil 1 myself, but regual motor oil is really good enough.

Can you get Mobil 1 in a 30weight non-detergent?

That's overkill. *Spend ten bucks on a gallon of Castrol and it'll
last you 5 years or so.


But, but, but the use of regular oil doesn't help us to disconnect
from those greedy exporting countries!!! *he preaches with passion and
thumps his desk*

Sure it does. Castrol is made from oil pumped from the ground in
America!

--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that
we can do, we shall ere long be surprised to find how
little remains that we cannot do. -- Samuel Butler

On Nov 1, 7:15*pm, (Larry W) wrote:
In article ,Robato y wrote:

...snipped...

I personally witnessed:
Run the engine up to temperature on a wheel-driven dyno take a sample
and print.
Without delay, change to synthetic.
Run the engine up to temperature on same dyno, half hour later, sample
and print.
...snipped...
133 HP to 137 HP.
I doubt it would show up on the quarter mile time, but hey, I was
surprised.

There may well be something to that, but it would not be unusual to
have a 4hp variation between runs even if NOTHING changed.

On tech offered the idea that less restriction in the new oil filter
could even make a 4 HP bump.

"Larry W" wrote
Without delay, change to synthetic.
Run the engine up to temperature on same dyno, half hour later, sample
and print.
...snipped...
133 HP to 137 HP.
I doubt it would show up on the quarter mile time, but hey, I was
surprised.


There may well be something to that, but it would not be unusual to
have a 4hp variation between runs even if NOTHING changed.

Back in the '70s I used to do a fair amount of tinkering with model airplane
and race car engines. Synthetics were fairly new at the time and we
experimented. It was common to pick up a few thousand rpm and use less oil
in the mix. Made me a believer, as did the ME that I did this stuff with.

"Doug Winterburn" wrote:

On their website, they only claim to distribute "gas". Whether
natural gas or gasoline, they don't say.

http://www.arizonapipeline.com/newsite/services.htm

If you notice they talk about gas distribution, but only casually
mention their pipeline business.

I can't help but believe that security has a lot to do with keeping
the pipeline business out of the limelight.

Lew

On 11/02/2010 06:15 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Doug Winterburn" wrote:

On their website, they only claim to distribute "gas". Whether
natural gas or gasoline, they don't say.

http://www.arizonapipeline.com/newsite/services.htm

If you notice they talk about gas distribution, but only casually
mention their pipeline business.

It seems pretty clear - they install underground pipe for many
applications - most associated with other than petro-chem. Their only
distribution of product is "gas".


I can't help but believe that security has a lot to do with keeping
the pipeline business out of the limelight.

Lew

"Ed Pawlowski" writes:
"Angello Huong" wrote

Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?

Angello

I went to several auto part stores and the only synthetic they had in 30
weight was detergent and I need non-detergent. (I actually once
mistakenly briefly used an oil with detergent, and the check window got
all bubbly...)

The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
is still made also without detergents for older engines.

Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
without detergent.

"blueman" wrote
The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
is still made also without detergents for older engines.

Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
without detergent.


I'd go to an industrial supply house or www.mcmaster.com for compressor oil.
They make a synthetic that is probably the same 30 weight with no
detergents. Mc Master No. 1411K31 for 30 weight. $53 a gallon. Lifetime
supply for most of us that use a compressor lightly.

"blueman" wrote in message
...
"Ed Pawlowski" writes:
"Angello Huong" wrote

Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?

Angello

I went to several auto part stores and the only synthetic they had in 30
weight was detergent and I need non-detergent. (I actually once
mistakenly briefly used an oil with detergent, and the check window got
all bubbly...)

The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
is still made also without detergents for older engines.

Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
without detergent.


In the past, a Non-detergent oil had a ND designation adjacent to the
viscosity weight rating.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"blueman" wrote

The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
is still made also without detergents for older engines.

Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
without detergent.



I'd go to an industrial supply house or www.mcmaster.com for compressor
oil. They make a synthetic that is probably the same 30 weight with no
detergents. Mc Master No. 1411K31 for 30 weight. $53 a gallon.
Lifetime supply for most of us that use a compressor lightly.

Does synthetic oil degrade with time?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"Leon" writes:

"blueman" wrote in message
...
"Ed Pawlowski" writes:
"Angello Huong" wrote

Anyone here knows whether using synthetic oil would be better or
worse than the normal oil on an air compressor?

Angello

I went to several auto part stores and the only synthetic they had in 30
weight was detergent and I need non-detergent. (I actually once
mistakenly briefly used an oil with detergent, and the check window got
all bubbly...)

The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
is still made also without detergents for older engines.

Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
without detergent.


In the past, a Non-detergent oil had a ND designation adjacent to the
viscosity weight rating.

Still does at least at the local auto parts stores...

On 11/7/2010 9:55 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"blueman" wrote
The auto-techs said all the new automotive oils have detergents for
regulatory/standards reasons. But that plain (non-synthetic) 30 weight
is still made also without detergents for older engines.

Perhaps they are wrong or perhaps you can get synthetic 30 weight
without detergent in a compressor parts store... But I would be
interested if anybody has found a source of synthetic 30 weight oil
without detergent.

I'd go to an industrial supply house or www.mcmaster.com for compressor
oil. They make a synthetic that is probably the same 30 weight with no
detergents. Mc Master No. 1411K31 for 30 weight. $53 a gallon. Lifetime
supply for most of us that use a compressor lightly.

I got my compressor used over 30 years ago and have been thinking of
changing the oil after reading this thread, but so far, just thinking
about it... Compressor gets light use, maybe once a week on average.

I think, if I change it, I'll use the synthetic stuff so it will last.
It might have synthetic stuff in it, I never changed it.

I rarely drain the water (years) and never change the oil (many years)

Still works same as the day I got the thing (Emglo pump, now Dewalt or
Jenny)

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On 11/18/10 3:05 AM, Stuart wrote:
In ,
Jack wrote:
I rarely drain the water (years)

Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.


Ok, Josepi.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Nov 18, 4:05*am, Stuart wrote:
In article ,
* *Jack Stein wrote:

I rarely drain the water (years)

Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.

Entire neighbourhoods get levelled like that all the time!

On 11/18/10 12:19 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Nov 18, 4:05 am, wrote:
In ,
Jack wrote:

I rarely drain the water (years)

Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.

Entire neighbourhoods get levelled like that all the time!

I made the mistake of setting my compressor in some oak saw dust.
Needless to say, the insurance company wouldn't cover the resulting
damage because they blamed the whole thing on my ungrounded plastic DC
ducting.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 11/18/10 12:19 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Nov 18, 4:05 am, wrote:
In ,
Jack wrote:

I rarely drain the water (years)

Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of
the pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.

Entire neighbourhoods get levelled like that all the time!

I made the mistake of setting my compressor in some oak saw dust.
Needless to say, the insurance company wouldn't cover the resulting
damage because they blamed the whole thing on my ungrounded plastic DC
ducting.

So sad. If only you had wrapped the PVC conduit in braided ground, and
sized it to over-capacity...

--

-Mike-

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 11/18/10 3:05 AM, Stuart wrote:
In ,
Jack wrote:
I rarely drain the water (years)

Now that concerns me as you can get rusting inside and thinning of the
pressure vessel walls - you can guess what happens then.


Ok, Josepi.


--

-MIKE-

I work in Massachusetts. By law, industrial/commercial air tanks have to be
inspected every two years. Must also have a state tag and permit from the
Dept of Safety before being used. At your home, they don't care.

On 11/18/2010 10:41 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I work in Massachusetts. By law, industrial/commercial air tanks have to
be inspected every two years. Must also have a state tag and permit from
the Dept of Safety before being used. At your home, they don't care.

Is this a hands on inspection, or do they run the thing through an X-ray
machine?

Must be really nice living in Massachusetts, nice and safe, cozy
feeling, yes?

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
On 11/18/2010 10:41 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I work in Massachusetts. By law, industrial/commercial air tanks have to
be inspected every two years. Must also have a state tag and permit from
the Dept of Safety before being used. At your home, they don't care.

Is this a hands on inspection, or do they run the thing through an X-ray
machine?

Must be really nice living in Massachusetts, nice and safe, cozy feeling,
yes?

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

First inspection and certificate is by the state inspector. Subsequent
inspections can be done by the insurance carrier. We have to have our high
pressure boilers opened and inspected every year so they do the air tanks at
the same time. Used to be they had to be opened for internal visual, now
they use ultrasound. Oh, you also have to be licensed to operate those
boilers. You need an engineer or "special to be in charge" and then you
can have subordinate fireman or special licenses below that. They don't get
switched on unless one of them is present. Of course if is is over 300 hp
aggragate it is stricter.

In article ,
Jack Stein wrote:
On 11/18/2010 10:41 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I work in Massachusetts. By law, industrial/commercial air tanks have to
be inspected every two years. Must also have a state tag and permit from
the Dept of Safety before being used. At your home, they don't care.

Is this a hands on inspection, or do they run the thing through an X-ray
machine?
...snipped...

Can't say what they do in Mass. but in Maryland pressure vessels subject
to inspection are hydrostatically tested, i.e. the tank is filled with water,
pressurizing to some value above the rated working pressure, and then
checking for leaks.

--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org