I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On 9 Mar, 12:13, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. *

Here in Europe, we do that sort of job with a router against a clamped
guide.

In European factories, we'd do it with a sliding table on the cabinet
saw (yes, we do have dado sets and the ability to remove crown
guards). However big sliding tables cost money and need workshop
space, so not many hobbyists have that option.

Puckdropper wrote:
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Puckdropper

Router and dado jig.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/ar...ter_Dado_Jig1/
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...idth-dado-jig/

On 3/9/2010 7:13 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Puckdropper
While the router jig method is a good way to go I believe you have a
bigger problem that needs to be solved. Based on what you said it sounds
like you are just getting into woodworking (Excuse me if I am wrong.)

The resolution is to build the side table as the need for it will not go
away. Today its cutting dados, tomorrow its cutting plywood sheets,
the next day it is cutting something else that is to big for your
existing system.

The side table could be in the form of removable extensions on the saw,
or in an actual side table.

I solved the problem by making a side table (for me it is my work bench)
It is based on a 2'X 4' piece of plywood. The top is a frame of half
lapped 2"X4" dados to accept the plywood. The rest of the bench is made
from 2"X4", all joints half lapped. it has enclosed cabinets at both
ends with a two large shelves between the end cabinets. The side table
is on wheels.

The side table was carefully measured to be the exact height of my table
saw when it is sitting on the floor for use. This side table can be
used as an out feed for ripping long pieces of wood and as a support
table for large sheet of plywood or long boards.

I like the system because as a part time hobbyist, I can arrange my saw
and side table into the best configuration for the project that I am
doing. Usually it is placed to the right and slightly behind me so
that as I cut a pieced I can turn, place the piece just cut on the
table, and pick up the next. All other tools; square, tape measure,
pencils etc. are convenient on the side table.

As I have a small shop in my garage, every thing can be rolled to the
side and the car placed in the garage when I am not working there.

On 3/9/2010 6:13 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Keith' got your solution if you want to use your dado stack.

My setup for the above is a folding roller table (sometimes 2) used as a
side extension table for the left tilt table saw, and an mdf sacrificial
fence on the table saw.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10761

I generally dislike cutting dados with a router unless there is no other
way ... too slow ... and to do so on a workpiece that already has dados
that have been cut on the table saw, it would be a last resort option.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that
long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Use "my design" router dado jig and your router.

On 3/9/10 8:08 AM, Swingman wrote:
My setup for the above is a folding roller table (sometimes 2) used as a
side extension table for the left tilt table saw, and an mdf sacrificial
fence on the table saw.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10761


Harbor Freight started carrying those roller balls for about a buck a
piece, if you decide to make your own.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Keith Nuttle wrote in
:

While the router jig method is a good way to go I believe you have a
bigger problem that needs to be solved. Based on what you said it
sounds like you are just getting into woodworking (Excuse me if I am
wrong.)

The resolution is to build the side table as the need for it will not
go away. Today its cutting dados, tomorrow its cutting plywood
sheets, the next day it is cutting something else that is to big for
your existing system.

The side table could be in the form of removable extensions on the
saw, or in an actual side table.

I solved the problem by making a side table (for me it is my work
bench)
It is based on a 2'X 4' piece of plywood. The top is a frame of
half
lapped 2"X4" dados to accept the plywood. The rest of the bench is
made from 2"X4", all joints half lapped. it has enclosed cabinets at
both ends with a two large shelves between the end cabinets. The side
table is on wheels.

The side table was carefully measured to be the exact height of my
table saw when it is sitting on the floor for use. This side table
can be used as an out feed for ripping long pieces of wood and as a
support table for large sheet of plywood or long boards.

I like the system because as a part time hobbyist, I can arrange my
saw and side table into the best configuration for the project that I
am doing. Usually it is placed to the right and slightly behind me
so that as I cut a pieced I can turn, place the piece just cut on the
table, and pick up the next. All other tools; square, tape measure,
pencils etc. are convenient on the side table.

As I have a small shop in my garage, every thing can be rolled to the
side and the car placed in the garage when I am not working there.


Hm... half laps and rabbets. Sounds like a job for a dado stack!

You've mentioned wheels. Are they locking casters, or do you have a
system where there's two fixed wheels and two casters? It seems to me
locking casters would want to move as a board was slid over the top.

The side table as you describe it sounds like a worthy shop project in
and of itself. It'll give me a good place to store the various saw
blades and tools I need for the saw.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

I made my workbench the same height as my table saw. The saw sets at the
end of my workbench, and acts as an extension for the saw for cross cutting.
The saw is on rollers and can be turned 90 deg. for ripping plywood.
Also my radial saw, is at the same height and sets next to the table saw,
so they all support each other. The rip fence on the T/S makes a perfect
stop for the R/S when making cutoffs. I have my shop a small 2 car garage
and space is very limited.

Joe
"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that
long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On 3/9/2010 7:13 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Clamp a piece of plywood to the crossmember of a sawhorse. Not elegant
or sturdy or in any way graceful, but it will do in a pinch. If no ply
then clamp on a couple of boards of any reasonable dimension and put a
third across the top.

Or stack books, scrap lumber, or whatever else you need to use on a
folding card table.

Or clamp something in a Workmate.

Or live dangerously and stack some bricks/gallon jugs/barbell
weights/shot bags/unabridged dictionaries on the board to hold it down
(keep them away from the blade--use a clamp across the board as a fence
if you have to). That's a no good for narrow stock but the sides of a
book case should be wide enough to hold them stably.

Or make a crosscut sled with a hold-down and enough weight to manage
your boards.

On 3/9/2010 1:34 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Keith wrote in
:

While the router jig method is a good way to go I believe you have a
bigger problem that needs to be solved. Based on what you said it
sounds like you are just getting into woodworking (Excuse me if I am
wrong.)

The resolution is to build the side table as the need for it will not
go away. Today its cutting dados, tomorrow its cutting plywood
sheets, the next day it is cutting something else that is to big for
your existing system.

The side table could be in the form of removable extensions on the
saw, or in an actual side table.

I solved the problem by making a side table (for me it is my work
bench)
It is based on a 2'X 4' piece of plywood. The top is a frame of
half
lapped 2"X4" dados to accept the plywood. The rest of the bench is
made from 2"X4", all joints half lapped. it has enclosed cabinets at
both ends with a two large shelves between the end cabinets. The side
table is on wheels.

The side table was carefully measured to be the exact height of my
table saw when it is sitting on the floor for use. This side table
can be used as an out feed for ripping long pieces of wood and as a
support table for large sheet of plywood or long boards.

I like the system because as a part time hobbyist, I can arrange my
saw and side table into the best configuration for the project that I
am doing. Usually it is placed to the right and slightly behind me
so that as I cut a pieced I can turn, place the piece just cut on the
table, and pick up the next. All other tools; square, tape measure,
pencils etc. are convenient on the side table.

As I have a small shop in my garage, every thing can be rolled to the
side and the car placed in the garage when I am not working there.


Hm... half laps and rabbets. Sounds like a job for a dado stack!

You've mentioned wheels. Are they locking casters, or do you have a
system where there's two fixed wheels and two casters? It seems to me
locking casters would want to move as a board was slid over the top.

The side table as you describe it sounds like a worthy shop project in
and of itself. It'll give me a good place to store the various saw
blades and tools I need for the saw.

Puckdropper
Unfortunately it was pre stacked dado, so I cut all dados and half laps
on my table saw. For each half lap I carefully cut the end cut and then
sliced through the remaining dado to remove the wood. (The end cut
determines the squareness of the table.) Cleaned them up with a chisel.

As for the wheels on my table they are not locking but I have never had
a wandering problem with the table. With a caveat, I used the wrong
type of wheels. I used four hard rubber swivel casters. The problem
after a few years the rubber casters develop flat spots. If I was to do
it over again I would use steel caster no rubber or plastic.

Half laps are fun, you should try it, doing it the way I did it, it is
especially fun taking out those slices and using the chisel.

"J MOHNKE" wrote in
om:

I made my workbench the same height as my table saw. The saw sets at
the end of my workbench, and acts as an extension for the saw for
cross cutting. The saw is on rollers and can be turned 90 deg. for
ripping plywood. Also my radial saw, is at the same height and sets
next to the table saw, so they all support each other. The rip fence
on the T/S makes a perfect stop for the R/S when making cutoffs. I
have my shop a small 2 car garage and space is very limited.

Joe

I measured my bench. 1/4" taller than the saw. Rats. When I get the
garshop switched around, I'm going to flip the bench over on its back and
cut its legs down. Then put leveling feet in there so I can make sure
it's exactly the same height as my TS.

I wound up raising the saw a little bit and getting close enough. The
dados have all been cut, and it's almost time to test the fit.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...

I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that
long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

I recently cut dadoes on the 7' sides of a bookcase. I used a 3/4" straight
bit in my router and a clamp-on cutting guide. The 3/4" poplar shelves were
so snug in the 1/4"-deep dadoes I had to sand them a bit so they would fit.

If I had a table-saw I'd use a couple of adjustable roller stands (which I
do have) and a hunk of plywood to support the other end of the work piece.

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...
On 3/9/2010 7:13 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that
long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Puckdropper
While the router jig method is a good way to go I believe you have a
bigger problem that needs to be solved. Based on what you said it sounds
like you are just getting into woodworking (Excuse me if I am wrong.)

The resolution is to build the side table as the need for it will not go
away. Today its cutting dados, tomorrow its cutting plywood sheets, the
next day it is cutting something else that is to big for your existing
system.

The side table could be in the form of removable extensions on the saw, or
in an actual side table.

I solved the problem by making a side table (for me it is my work bench)
It is based on a 2'X 4' piece of plywood. The top is a frame of half
lapped 2"X4" dados to accept the plywood. The rest of the bench is made
from 2"X4", all joints half lapped. it has enclosed cabinets at both ends
with a two large shelves between the end cabinets. The side table is on
wheels.

The side table was carefully measured to be the exact height of my table
saw when it is sitting on the floor for use. This side table can be used
as an out feed for ripping long pieces of wood and as a support table for
large sheet of plywood or long boards.

You must have a spectacularly Flat floor. Issue I've had with separate side
tables is getting the tops of the saw and table coplanar.

On Tue, 9 Mar 2010 18:31:57 -0800, "LDosser"
wrote:

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...
On 3/9/2010 7:13 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that
long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Puckdropper
While the router jig method is a good way to go I believe you have a
bigger problem that needs to be solved. Based on what you said it sounds
like you are just getting into woodworking (Excuse me if I am wrong.)

The resolution is to build the side table as the need for it will not go
away. Today its cutting dados, tomorrow its cutting plywood sheets, the
next day it is cutting something else that is to big for your existing
system.

The side table could be in the form of removable extensions on the saw, or
in an actual side table.

I solved the problem by making a side table (for me it is my work bench)
It is based on a 2'X 4' piece of plywood. The top is a frame of half
lapped 2"X4" dados to accept the plywood. The rest of the bench is made
from 2"X4", all joints half lapped. it has enclosed cabinets at both ends
with a two large shelves between the end cabinets. The side table is on
wheels.

The side table was carefully measured to be the exact height of my table
saw when it is sitting on the floor for use. This side table can be used
as an out feed for ripping long pieces of wood and as a support table for
large sheet of plywood or long boards.

You must have a spectacularly Flat floor. Issue I've had with separate side
tables is getting the tops of the saw and table coplanar.

....that's why they make decks of co-dependent playing cards!

cg

On Mar 9, 7:13*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. *All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: *The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. *My table saw won't support a board that long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. *I don't have a
RAS.

Human helper. Cost = 1 case beer.

"Chasgroh" wrote in message
...


You must have a spectacularly Flat floor. Issue I've had with separate
side
tables is getting the tops of the saw and table coplanar.

...that's why they make decks of co-dependent playing cards!

cg

More work than getting out the router ...

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that
long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.


I have a bunch of roller stands for this sort of thing and a short roller
conveyor. I would suggest if your table saw has two square slots like mine
that you make a shuttle that rides in both grooves in order to keep such
long boards square while making your dado cuts also. The roller stands
where cheap, but I have had them for years. Don't know what they would cost
today.

On 3/9/2010 10:28 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Mar 9, 7:13 am, Puckdropperpuckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. My table saw won't support a board that long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I don't have a
RAS.

Human helper. Cost = 1 case beer.

That tends to need to scratch his noise at the worst possible, about
half way through the cut, or gets distracted by the bug on the wall and
watches it and lets the board bind in the saw.

On 09 Mar 2010 22:58:56 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com scrawled the following:

Just bumped one of them and it dropped down 5 inches. It looks like to
get a good one I'm going to have to spend some cash. Does Festool make
roller stands yet? (Where would the vacuum plug in?)

Yeah. They're $1,950 for the kit and come with a built in brush,
vacuum, and grain comb (top and bottom on all.) The infeed roller
preheats the wood so it isn't shocked from the warmth of the sander or
planer blades cutting it. The outfeed roller stains and polys the
wood (to any one of 1,864 different fake woodgrains) after masking off
any rabbets, dadoes, and edges, pretrimming the blue tape afterwards.

Buy two sets. They're small.

I can see Swingy and Leon drooling for them right now. Can't you?


--
There is no such thing as limits to growth, because there are no limits
to the human capacity for intelligence, imagination, and wonder.
-- Ronald Reagan

On 3/10/2010 5:49 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 09 Mar 2010 22:58:56 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com scrawled the following:

Just bumped one of them and it dropped down 5 inches. It looks like to
get a good one I'm going to have to spend some cash. Does Festool make
roller stands yet? (Where would the vacuum plug in?)

Yeah. They're $1,950 for the kit and come with a built in brush,
vacuum, and grain comb (top and bottom on all.) The infeed roller
preheats the wood so it isn't shocked from the warmth of the sander or
planer blades cutting it. The outfeed roller stains and polys the
wood (to any one of 1,864 different fake woodgrains) after masking off
any rabbets, dadoes, and edges, pretrimming the blue tape afterwards.

Buy two sets. They're small.

I can see Swingy and Leon drooling for them right now. Can't you?

Hehe ... New Festool stuff!? Damn, thought it was Rob's meatball thread
that had my mouth watering!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Puckdropper wrote:
"J MOHNKE" wrote in
om:

I made my workbench the same height as my table saw. The saw sets at
the end of my workbench, and acts as an extension for the saw for
cross cutting. The saw is on rollers and can be turned 90 deg. for
ripping plywood. Also my radial saw, is at the same height and sets
next to the table saw, so they all support each other. The rip fence
on the T/S makes a perfect stop for the R/S when making cutoffs. I
have my shop a small 2 car garage and space is very limited.

Joe

I measured my bench. 1/4" taller than the saw. Rats.

Not really a big deal. 1/4" over 6' would be pretty small angle,
2/10th's of a degree I think. If your shop is in a garage or basement
with floor drains, the floor slopes anyway, so unless the table is
adjustable or attached to the saw, it will vary depending on where the
saw is located.

When I get the
garshop switched around, I'm going to flip the bench over on its back and
cut its legs down.

Pictures of 2' tall work bench flash in my head:-)

Then put leveling feet in there so I can make sure
it's exactly the same height as my TS.

My work bench and side tables are the same as the table saw. Also, my
jointer fence which is next to the TS on the same bench is the same
height as the saw table (http://jbstein.com/Flick/TSBench2.jpg). I
rarely use the router to cut dado's, but the end of a 6' board would be
around the limit for me on the TS.

I wound up raising the saw a little bit and getting close enough. The
dados have all been cut, and it's almost time to test the fit.

Hmmm, I test the fit before I even cut one production dado, and after
the first cut, at least...

--
Jack
Got Change: The Individual ======= The Collective!
http://jbstein.com

Jack Stein wrote in
:

Puckdropper wrote:


I measured my bench. 1/4" taller than the saw. Rats.

Not really a big deal. 1/4" over 6' would be pretty small angle,
2/10th's of a degree I think. If your shop is in a garage or basement
with floor drains, the floor slopes anyway, so unless the table is
adjustable or attached to the saw, it will vary depending on where the
saw is located.

Actually, that part of the floor is pretty close to dead level. (It
should have a practically undetectable slope outward, but that's not how
they guy laid it.)

When I get the
garshop switched around, I'm going to flip the bench over on its back
and cut its legs down.

Pictures of 2' tall work bench flash in my head:-)

Then put leveling feet in there so I can make sure
it's exactly the same height as my TS.

My work bench and side tables are the same as the table saw. Also, my
jointer fence which is next to the TS on the same bench is the same
height as the saw table (http://jbstein.com/Flick/TSBench2.jpg). I
rarely use the router to cut dado's, but the end of a 6' board would
be around the limit for me on the TS.

I wouldn't want to go much longer than 6' unless I had a huge side table
like Norm. It's a trick keeping everything tight to the fence and flat
to the table.

I wound up raising the saw a little bit and getting close enough.
The dados have all been cut, and it's almost time to test the fit.

Hmmm, I test the fit before I even cut one production dado, and after
the first cut, at least...


I did those checks too. It's always fun to see how a new (to me) joining
method works out. The ultimate fit, all 8 boards on the 2 supports
looked good. Time for final sanding and glue.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On 3/11/2010 1:43 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Jack wrote in
:



Puckdropper

Level Floors
I am the one who suggested the rolling work bench for a side table. I
have used this same table and saw three different garages of signficant
diferent ages. I have found that even if the floor is not quite level it
does not make a lot of difference. Unless you are working with thick
materials that do not bend, most wood will easily bend a quarter to a
half an inch over the lenght of the piece.

Practically this means that your side table can differ in height from
the saw by that much and there will be no problem. You may have to lift
the end of the board a little when you reach the table, but practically
it does not effect the purpose of the side table which is to support
long pieces of wood.

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...
On 3/11/2010 1:43 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Jack wrote in
:



Puckdropper

Level Floors
I am the one who suggested the rolling work bench for a side table. I
have used this same table and saw three different garages of signficant
diferent ages. I have found that even if the floor is not quite level it
does not make a lot of difference. Unless you are working with thick
materials that do not bend, most wood will easily bend a quarter to a half
an inch over the lenght of the piece.

Practically this means that your side table can differ in height from the
saw by that much and there will be no problem. You may have to lift the
end of the board a little when you reach the table, but practically it
does not effect the purpose of the side table which is to support long
pieces of wood.

If you Lift the end of the board when you reach the table, it seems to me
you are not getting a square cut at the blade. Maybe I'm nit picking, but I
like anything going through fast moving tools to be flat on the tool's
table.

On 3/11/2010 9:34 PM, LDosser wrote:
"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...
On 3/11/2010 1:43 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Jack wrote in
:



Puckdropper

Level Floors
I am the one who suggested the rolling work bench for a side table. I
have used this same table and saw three different garages of
signficant diferent ages. I have found that even if the floor is not
quite level it does not make a lot of difference. Unless you are
working with thick materials that do not bend, most wood will easily
bend a quarter to a half an inch over the lenght of the piece.

Practically this means that your side table can differ in height from
the saw by that much and there will be no problem. You may have to
lift the end of the board a little when you reach the table, but
practically it does not effect the purpose of the side table which is
to support long pieces of wood.

If you Lift the end of the board when you reach the table, it seems to
me you are not getting a square cut at the blade. Maybe I'm nit picking,
but I like anything going through fast moving tools to be flat on the
tool's table.


It will be flat on the saw table, and can be maintained square to the
fence. When I said lift the piece I meant lift the end up slightly to
get it to slid on to the table. This can be done by hand or a slight
incline at the edge of the table. The natural spring of the board will
allow the board to lay flat on the saw table and have the end a little
higher than the table. I am only talking about less than a half inch in
4 to 6 feet.

On Mar 10, 6:31*am, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 3/9/2010 10:28 PM, Father Haskell wrote: On Mar 9, 7:13 am, Puckdropperpuckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com *wrote:
I picked up a stacked dado set last week, and am working on building a
simple bookcase. *All the shelves will rest in dados, so I'd like to use
the dado set to ensure a consistent fit.

Here's the problem: *The outer supports are 6' tall, and two shelves must
be at the ends of the boards. *My table saw won't support a board that long
without the board tipping.

I'm looking at building a side stand to support the extra length of the
board, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. *I don't have a
RAS.

Human helper. *Cost = 1 case beer.

That tends to need to scratch his noise at the worst possible, about
half way through the cut, or gets distracted by the bug on the wall and
watches it and lets the board bind in the saw.

The helper's job is to support the weight of the board,
not steer it. Supporting the weight of a shelf standard
only takes one hand. He can pick his nose or drink a
beer with the other.