I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective. I do not want to use the rip fence to guide them because that
will make a cut that is parallel to the end not necessarily square to the
sides. My current best solution is to make another sled that is really wide
(or deep depending on your perspective). If I do that I will be making the
base out of 12mm Baltic birch rather then 3/4 something in order to keep the
weight down. Unless I see a better idea, I will probably measure the depth
of my kitchen base cabinets and make it large enough to accommodate a side
for one. I figure that is probably the largest panel I am likely to deal
with in the future. However, I have been trying to figure out a system that
would not have a panel width limitation. I thought about eliminating the
fence on the leading edge of the sled, but that obviously would present some
issues once I make the first cut. What about a sled that only rides on one
side of the blade and only uses one mitre slot? I guess that would be kind
of like a sliding table. What are the pros and cons of a design like that?
That would allow me to not worry about a fence on the leading edge but I
would still have issues with the amount of table space there is before the
blade. How would I handle the sled with that much of it hanging off the
front of the saw?

SteveP.

You can attach a wooden straight edge using hot glue, brads or clamps to the
bottom of the panel and paralel to the cut. Set this at a the distance you
want to cut the panel and let the straight edge ride against the edge of
your table saw. It sounds complicated but it's not.
bob heveri
"Highland Pairos" wrote in message
...
I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective. I do not want to use the rip fence to guide them because that
will make a cut that is parallel to the end not necessarily square to the
sides. My current best solution is to make another sled that is really
wide (or deep depending on your perspective). If I do that I will be
making the base out of 12mm Baltic birch rather then 3/4 something in order
to keep the weight down. Unless I see a better idea, I will probably
measure the depth of my kitchen base cabinets and make it large enough to
accommodate a side for one. I figure that is probably the largest panel I
am likely to deal with in the future. However, I have been trying to
figure out a system that would not have a panel width limitation. I thought
about eliminating the fence on the leading edge of the sled, but that
obviously would present some issues once I make the first cut. What about
a sled that only rides on one side of the blade and only uses one mitre
slot? I guess that would be kind of like a sliding table. What are the
pros and cons of a design like that? That would allow me to not worry about
a fence on the leading edge but I would still have issues with the amount
of table space there is before the blade. How would I handle the sled with
that much of it hanging off the front of the saw?

SteveP.

You could also equip your circular saw with the best carbide blade you
can find, clamp a straightedge across the panel (square, of course) and
go at it. Works with a router and straight or spiral bit too. Perhaps
your thinking is "stuck" on one machine, the TS, keeping you from
finding the easiest solution. Happens to me now and then...

Highland Pairos wrote:
I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective.


The simplest way to handle this is to simply clamp a straight edge to the
desired spot and then have at it with a circular saw. I bought an aluminum
straightedge that can handle up to a 96" panel many years ago and I always use
it to knock panels down to size before I do anything on the table saw.

Forget constructing a special sled for this; you're working much too hard.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

In article , "Highland Pairos" wrote:
I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective.
[snip]
What about a sled that only rides on one
side of the blade and only uses one mitre slot? I guess that would be kind
of like a sliding table. What are the pros and cons of a design like that?

That's what I use. Pros: it allows me to cut panels as wide as the sled. Cons:
large offcuts need to be supported.

That would allow me to not worry about a fence on the leading edge but I
would still have issues with the amount of table space there is before the
blade. How would I handle the sled with that much of it hanging off the
front of the saw?

I have not found that to be a problem, and my sled is made of 3/4" BB.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message

effective. I do not want to use the rip fence to guide them because that
will make a cut that is parallel to the end not necessarily square to the
sides.

When using sheet goods, plan your cuts and take great pains to always
maintain one factory edge for this type of situation. A good cutlist program
will help you to do this.

My current best solution is to make another sled that is really wide
(or deep depending on your perspective). If I do that I will be making
the
base out of 12mm Baltic birch rather then 3/4 something in order to keep
the
weight down. Unless I see a better idea, I will probably measure the
depth
of my kitchen base cabinets and make it large enough to accommodate a side
for one.

Kitchen base cabinet end panels will not normally be more than 24" deep
(less if you have face frames). A sled for cutting side panels this size is
easily built and should be something in your arsenal of jigs in any event.

If all else fails, and you don't have a circle saw, clamp a temporary,
upside down "fence" (board or straightedge) to the workpiece, set at the
correct distance from the saw blade, and use it to reference the left edge
of your table saw's top as you make the initial cut.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/05

On Tue, 31 May 2005 04:29:30 GMT, "Highland Pairos"
wrote:

I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective. I do not want to use the rip fence to guide them because that
will make a cut that is parallel to the end not necessarily square to the
sides. My current best solution is to make another sled that is really wide
(or deep depending on your perspective). If I do that I will be making the
base out of 12mm Baltic birch rather then 3/4 something in order to keep the
weight down. Unless I see a better idea, I will probably measure the depth
of my kitchen base cabinets and make it large enough to accommodate a side
for one. I figure that is probably the largest panel I am likely to deal
with in the future. However, I have been trying to figure out a system that
would not have a panel width limitation. I thought about eliminating the
fence on the leading edge of the sled, but that obviously would present some
issues once I make the first cut. What about a sled that only rides on one
side of the blade and only uses one mitre slot? I guess that would be kind
of like a sliding table. What are the pros and cons of a design like that?
That would allow me to not worry about a fence on the leading edge but I
would still have issues with the amount of table space there is before the
blade. How would I handle the sled with that much of it hanging off the
front of the saw?

My sled runs in the right hand miter slot and has the fence on the
*leading* edge. I always start with the same amount (enough) of sled
on the saw table. I "clamp" the work to the sled; right hand on the
fence, left on the back edge of the work and run it through. Works
fine for any panel width that I care to manhandle and I cut widths
that are wider than the sled just fine.

My body remains far to the right of the blade so there is no problem
with the off-chance of the off-cut kicking back. (It never does)

Purists could add some toggle clamps to the fence if they wanted too.

In article ,
says...
I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective. I do not want to use the rip fence to guide them because that
will make a cut that is parallel to the end not necessarily square to the
sides. My current best solution is to make another sled that is really wide
(or deep depending on your perspective). If I do that I will be making the
base out of 12mm Baltic birch rather then 3/4 something in order to keep the
weight down. Unless I see a better idea, I will probably measure the depth
of my kitchen base cabinets and make it large enough to accommodate a side
for one. I figure that is probably the largest panel I am likely to deal
with in the future. However, I have been trying to figure out a system that
would not have a panel width limitation. I thought about eliminating the
fence on the leading edge of the sled, but that obviously would present some
issues once I make the first cut. What about a sled that only rides on one
side of the blade and only uses one mitre slot? I guess that would be kind
of like a sliding table. What are the pros and cons of a design like that?
That would allow me to not worry about a fence on the leading edge but I
would still have issues with the amount of table space there is before the
blade. How would I handle the sled with that much of it hanging off the
front of the saw?

SteveP.



I have something of the same problem and, coincidentally, very recently
saw a NYWS show in which Norm Abram made a sled of 1/4 inch bb and no
fence on the leading edge, and which also left me wondering.

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
...
Highland Pairos wrote:
I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too
wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective.


The simplest way to handle this is to simply clamp a straight edge to the
desired spot and then have at it with a circular saw. I bought an
aluminum straightedge that can handle up to a 96" panel many years ago and
I always use it to knock panels down to size before I do anything on the
table saw.

Forget constructing a special sled for this; you're working much too hard.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

or cut it just a bit wide with the circular saw, and then move the fence
over a bit and use a straight bit on a router.

I would read this article:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp


Highland Pairos wrote:

I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective.

Doug,

Do you just have to support some of the sled's weight with one hand as you
start?

SteveP

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
In article , "Highland Pairos"
wrote:
I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too
wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective.
[snip]
What about a sled that only rides on one
side of the blade and only uses one mitre slot? I guess that would be
kind
of like a sliding table. What are the pros and cons of a design like
that?

That's what I use. Pros: it allows me to cut panels as wide as the sled.
Cons:
large offcuts need to be supported.

That would allow me to not worry about a fence on the leading edge but I
would still have issues with the amount of table space there is before the
blade. How would I handle the sled with that much of it hanging off the
front of the saw?

I have not found that to be a problem, and my sled is made of 3/4" BB.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

When using sheet goods, plan your cuts and take great pains to always
maintain one factory edge for this type of situation. A good cutlist
program
will help you to do this.

Normally this would probably be the case, but this panle is one that I had
to manufature myself by laminating two sheets together. I didn't try to
make sure that they were perfectly square to one another because I planned
to make a crosscut to square it up.

Kitchen base cabinet end panels will not normally be more than 24" deep
(less if you have face frames). A sled for cutting side panels this size
is
easily built and should be something in your arsenal of jigs in any event.

The sled I have is maybe a half inch too small.

SteveP.

I try to avoid hand tools and straight edges when ever possible as I believe
that this has great potential to introduce error. I really wanted to find a
way to do this with great repeatability. I don't mind taking the time to
build a sled as I am sure that this is not the last time I will be trying to
make a cut like this.

SteveP.

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message
...
I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective. I do not want to use the rip fence to guide them because that
will make a cut that is parallel to the end not necessarily square to the
sides. My current best solution is to make another sled that is really
wide (or deep depending on your perspective). If I do that I will be
making the base out of 12mm Baltic birch rather then 3/4 something in order
to keep the weight down. Unless I see a better idea, I will probably
measure the depth of my kitchen base cabinets and make it large enough to
accommodate a side for one. I figure that is probably the largest panel I
am likely to deal with in the future. However, I have been trying to
figure out a system that would not have a panel width limitation. I thought
about eliminating the fence on the leading edge of the sled, but that
obviously would present some issues once I make the first cut. What about
a sled that only rides on one side of the blade and only uses one mitre
slot? I guess that would be kind of like a sliding table. What are the
pros and cons of a design like that? That would allow me to not worry about
a fence on the leading edge but I would still have issues with the amount
of table space there is before the blade. How would I handle the sled with
that much of it hanging off the front of the saw?

SteveP.

How do you clamp to the sled? Do you use a long clamp between the trailing
edge of the work piece and the fence?

SteveP.

"Wes Stewart" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 31 May 2005 04:29:30 GMT, "Highland Pairos"
wrote:

I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too
wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective. I do not want to use the rip fence to guide them because that
will make a cut that is parallel to the end not necessarily square to the
sides. My current best solution is to make another sled that is really
wide
(or deep depending on your perspective). If I do that I will be making
the
base out of 12mm Baltic birch rather then 3/4 something in order to keep
the
weight down. Unless I see a better idea, I will probably measure the
depth
of my kitchen base cabinets and make it large enough to accommodate a side
for one. I figure that is probably the largest panel I am likely to deal
with in the future. However, I have been trying to figure out a system
that
would not have a panel width limitation. I thought about eliminating the
fence on the leading edge of the sled, but that obviously would present
some
issues once I make the first cut. What about a sled that only rides on
one
side of the blade and only uses one mitre slot? I guess that would be
kind
of like a sliding table. What are the pros and cons of a design like
that?
That would allow me to not worry about a fence on the leading edge but I
would still have issues with the amount of table space there is before the
blade. How would I handle the sled with that much of it hanging off the
front of the saw?

My sled runs in the right hand miter slot and has the fence on the
*leading* edge. I always start with the same amount (enough) of sled
on the saw table. I "clamp" the work to the sled; right hand on the
fence, left on the back edge of the work and run it through. Works
fine for any panel width that I care to manhandle and I cut widths
that are wider than the sled just fine.

My body remains far to the right of the blade so there is no problem
with the off-chance of the off-cut kicking back. (It never does)

Purists could add some toggle clamps to the fence if they wanted too.

On Tue, 31 May 2005 22:52:13 GMT, "Highland Pairos"
wrote:

How do you clamp to the sled? Do you use a long clamp between the trailing
edge of the work piece and the fence?

The fingers of my right hand are behind the sled fence. The heel of
my right hand can hold down the workpiece if necessary. My left hand
both pushes the work through the blade and into the sled fence. No
extra clamp required. I am the clamp.

Simpler done than explained.


SteveP.

"Wes Stewart" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 31 May 2005 04:29:30 GMT, "Highland Pairos"
wrote:

I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too
wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective. I do not want to use the rip fence to guide them because that
will make a cut that is parallel to the end not necessarily square to the
sides. My current best solution is to make another sled that is really
wide
(or deep depending on your perspective). If I do that I will be making
the
base out of 12mm Baltic birch rather then 3/4 something in order to keep
the
weight down. Unless I see a better idea, I will probably measure the
depth
of my kitchen base cabinets and make it large enough to accommodate a side
for one. I figure that is probably the largest panel I am likely to deal
with in the future. However, I have been trying to figure out a system
that
would not have a panel width limitation. I thought about eliminating the
fence on the leading edge of the sled, but that obviously would present
some
issues once I make the first cut. What about a sled that only rides on
one
side of the blade and only uses one mitre slot? I guess that would be
kind
of like a sliding table. What are the pros and cons of a design like
that?
That would allow me to not worry about a fence on the leading edge but I
would still have issues with the amount of table space there is before the
blade. How would I handle the sled with that much of it hanging off the
front of the saw?

My sled runs in the right hand miter slot and has the fence on the
*leading* edge. I always start with the same amount (enough) of sled
on the saw table. I "clamp" the work to the sled; right hand on the
fence, left on the back edge of the work and run it through. Works
fine for any panel width that I care to manhandle and I cut widths
that are wider than the sled just fine.

My body remains far to the right of the blade so there is no problem
with the off-chance of the off-cut kicking back. (It never does)

Purists could add some toggle clamps to the fence if they wanted too.

How do you clamp to the sled? Do you use a long clamp between the
trailing
edge of the work piece and the fence?

The fingers of my right hand are behind the sled fence. The heel of
my right hand can hold down the workpiece if necessary. My left hand
both pushes the work through the blade and into the sled fence. No
extra clamp required. I am the clamp.

Simpler done than explained.

I got it. (And well explained, btw)

SteveP.

On Tue, 31 May 2005 09:51:08 -0700, "Charles Spitzer"
wrote:


"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
m...
Highland Pairos wrote:
I need to trim some side panels for a cabinet to length. They are too
wide
for my crosscut sled and too wide and too long for the mitre gauge to be
effective.


The simplest way to handle this is to simply clamp a straight edge to the
desired spot and then have at it with a circular saw. I bought an
aluminum straightedge that can handle up to a 96" panel many years ago and
I always use it to knock panels down to size before I do anything on the
table saw.

Forget constructing a special sled for this; you're working much too hard.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

or cut it just a bit wide with the circular saw, and then move the fence
over a bit and use a straight bit on a router.


That's my preferred approach. The circular saw gets the bulk of the
material and the router with a good straightedge as a guide gets the final
fine cut.




+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

In article , "Highland Pairos" wrote:
Doug,

Do you just have to support some of the sled's weight with one hand as you
start?

Not unless I'm cutting something *really* big. The sled is 32" from front to
back. For any panel less than about 27", there's more sled on the table than
off at the *start* of the cut. And for panels less than 26", at least half of
the panel is over the table too. So balance just isn't an issue.



--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

I ended up making a one fence sled that rides in the right mitre slot. I
made it out of a 2'x4' piece of 3/4 mdf and a 3"x4' piece of 3/4 ply as the
fence. Works like a charm, and with the pieces in this case being 24ish"
wide, handling the whole thing at the start of the cut was easier then I had
expected. I took another piece of long scrap ply and clamped it to the
outside of the fence and clamped a block to that and got the repeatability
that I really wanted. I am glad I took the time to make it. I now have a
sled that will be cutting panels for a long time to come.

Thanks for your help Doug.

SteveP.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Highland Pairos"
wrote:
Doug,

Do you just have to support some of the sled's weight with one hand as
you
start?

Not unless I'm cutting something *really* big. The sled is 32" from front
to
back. For any panel less than about 27", there's more sled on the table
than
off at the *start* of the cut. And for panels less than 26", at least half
of
the panel is over the table too. So balance just isn't an issue.



--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

In article ,
"Highland Pairos" wrote:

[circumsnipped]

I tend to take the tools to the bigger tasks, rather than the other way
around. Such is my trade. My type of countertops seldom travel over
stationary tools, unless it is to cut blanks for one of my fine
solid-surface-edged custom laminate tops. (BTW, did I tell you I
fabricate solid surface countertops?)g
The methods of sizing big panels has become second nature.
I use a variety of aluminum fences 6" wide by 1/4" thick, 36", 50", 100"
and 150" Aluminum by the pound... cheap.
In case of a fridge panel, or somesuch, I'd strap on a fence and make a
rough cut with a sharp circular saw to within 1/8" of where I want to be.
Then I move the fence with some indexes I made which line up the extra
large square routerbase with the fence so that the sharp 1 1/8" bit
takes off the last 1/8"
Always crisp, never any tear-outs or rattyness.
Works for me, and yessir, it can work for you too!
Send $29.95 to receive a printed version of this post, an heirloom for
your kids, yessir, 50 years from now, they'll open up the envelope and
say: WTF???

In article ,
"Highland Pairos" wrote:

I really wanted to find a
way to do this with great repeatability.

A sled it is.