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John Moorhead
 
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Default Cutting, gluing oblique angles

Folks -

I have a 4 equally sided pyramidal lid, apx 14" square, that rises at an
angle of 25 degrees - how the hell cut accurately and glue it up?

Based on the compound miter calculator (
http://www.scarletta.net/WoodJoy/compound_miter.html ) I need to set the
crosscut at 42.19 deg and the bevel at 17.39 deg. My material is only 3/8"
thick, and I am just doing a butt-joint with gorilla glue. I glued up the
panels in pairs, and then glued the pairs. I taped the face of the joint
and then had a backer board of the complementary angle behind it for
clamping - all pcs were the same size and each pair of panels mated up in
the same plane, so I thought I was okay... And then...

Now the top isn't flat - it has "cupped" almost 1/2" across the middle and
sallies like a rocking horse when you put it on a flat surface... NOT what I
was after.

So, here are my obs and questions: The scales on the saw, especially the
bevel cut (Bosch 4412) don't allow for that sort of precision. I am
thinking that I am not hitting the same exact angles when I change the
orientation of the saw blade for the different cuts, and this is allowing
errors to creep in when I think that the two mated panels, or panel sets are
at their correct angles. There really aren't any user adjustable stops that
would give me that dead on accuracy I'm after. Because of the triangular
shape of the panels, I can't flip the wood around for every orientation I
would need in lieu of changing the saw angles.

For glue up, I am thinking that after I have the panel sets glued up, I
might be able to clamp the panel pairs down onto the tablesaw so that
everything will stay flat.

I would also like to reinforce the joinery for these shallow thin panels,
but think that a biscuit would blow out. I am chicken of using dowels
because of the absolute discrete alignment concerns.

Look forward some feedback on this one....

John Moorhead


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Lew Hodgett
 
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Default


"John Moorhead" writes:

I have a 4 equally sided pyramidal lid, apx 14" square, that rises at an
angle of 25 degrees - how the hell cut accurately and glue it up?


snip a tale of you can't get there from here

IMHO, angles are worthless, use actual dimensions to determine bevels.

My material is only 3/8"
thick, and I am just doing a butt-joint with gorilla glue.


You are working with what at best can be described as a 2nd class adhesive.

IMHO, it is totally worthless overpriced snot.

If you want good joints, no biscuits req'd, use epoxy filled with
microballoons.

When the wood has returned to compost, the epoxy & microballoons will still
be in service.

HTH

Lew



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Pat Barber
 
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Default

Go to the next WW show and get that guy from IN-LINE
industries that demos the "Dubby Jig" to cut it for
you...

John Moorhead wrote:

Folks -

I have a 4 equally sided pyramidal lid, apx 14" square, that rises at an
angle of 25 degrees - how the hell cut accurately and glue it up?

Based on the compound miter calculator (
http://www.scarletta.net/WoodJoy/compound_miter.html ) I need to set the
crosscut at 42.19 deg and the bevel at 17.39 deg.


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Silvan
 
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Default

Lew Hodgett wrote:

thick, and I am just doing a butt-joint with gorilla glue.


You are working with what at best can be described as a 2nd class
adhesive.

IMHO, it is totally worthless overpriced snot.


Overpriced, yes. Totally worthless? No. I finally found a use for it
plugging various gaps in the walls of my shop.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
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