I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Dick Snyder wrote:
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder


Use a shim that is the difference between the actual width of the
dado set and the desired final dado size between the stock and the
fence. 3/4" dado set plus 1/4" shim puts the right edge of the
dado where it will be, remove the shim and the left edge of the
dado is cut, 1" away from the right.
Joe

Dick Snyder said:

I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

Not really, other than the alternative of using a router with a 1" bit
and a good straight edge (in several light passes).


Greg G.

1, 1" dado? Just sneak up on it.

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately other
than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Measure measure, then measure. Use a piece of scrap to check the
measurements. Run the scrap through, then at the same 3/4", run the good
piece. Move the fence. Then use the scrap to check the setup.

Mark your piece so you know where the cut is supposed to be. You don't want
to move the fence the wrong way. Of course, I've never done that myself, but
I've heard stories of others doing it. Yeah, th at is, I've read about
others, not me though.
Ed

What about doing a 1/4" dado on one side of the total, then another 1/4" on
the other side. Then just clean out the middle with a 1/2" stack.

--
-Jim
©¿©¬

If you want to reply by email its -- ryan at jimryan dot com
Please use BCC and lets all avoid spam
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:7pzdd.8060$oU3.4162@trndny04...

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately other
than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Measure measure, then measure. Use a piece of scrap to check the
measurements. Run the scrap through, then at the same 3/4", run the good
piece. Move the fence. Then use the scrap to check the setup.

Mark your piece so you know where the cut is supposed to be. You don't
want
to move the fence the wrong way. Of course, I've never done that myself,
but
I've heard stories of others doing it. Yeah, th at is, I've read about
others, not me though.
Ed

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6"
stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw
has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come
out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder



How about clamping a 1/4" (plywood?) spacer to the fence for the first pass
and removing it for the second pass.

Bill Leonhardt

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw.

I like the ideas already posted about using a 1/4" filler strip clamped the
fence, then removing it. I'd use 1/4" MDF instead of plywood, though.

On the other hand, here's the golden opportunity to buy the pair of
Lie-Nielson Side Rabbet planes to widen the Dado. :-)

Bob

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 14:58:34 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:



I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked

I had a 1 1/32" one I had to cut last week - the shim method already
mentioned worked great. I took some 1/4" plywood (which was really
0.200") and taped Playing Cards to the back until I got to a shim that
was 1/4" + 1/32nd" wide.

Cut one pass with shim against fence, then remove shim and cut second
pass. Voila' a 1 1/32" wide dado.

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 14:58:34 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder



You could use a 1/4" ply or MDF clamped to your fence. Run a test
piece, remove the ply, and run through again to get a 1" dado. If not
perfect make minor fence adjustments and run another test. This way
you have your fence all set and the ply works like a simple jig to
give you a perfect and repeatable 1" dado on your good stock.

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message ...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Rip a piece of wood thicker (taller) than the piece you are dadoing
down to 1/4" width. Set dado for 3/4". Run first cut through the saw.
Clamp your 1/4" spacer to your fence. Run your piece through the saw
again. I'd try this on some scrap of the same thickness first, and do
any fine tuning of the spacer needed before making the actual cuts.

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS:

First the good news. The 1/4" shim worked great. Now the bad news: The
surface of the miter table has high pressure laminate on it (formica). The
dados chipped the edges of the hpl. I probably should have taped them or
used a router instead. Fortunately this will spoil the functionality of the
piece but it looks crappy. What would you have done - tape or router
or.....??

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 20:57:24 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:


"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS:

First the good news. The 1/4" shim worked great. Now the bad news: The
surface of the miter table has high pressure laminate on it (formica). The
dados chipped the edges of the hpl. I probably should have taped them or
used a router instead. Fortunately this will spoil the functionality of the
piece but it looks crappy. What would you have done - tape or router
or.....??


A newly-sharpened composite blade designed for cutting laminates will
leave a sharp edge. I used a new blade and got a very clean cut. In
fact, the result Formica edge can easily cut the skin.

What I'd do. Cut the 3/4 inch dado of a few test pieces. Cut the 3/4
inch dado on my work. Bump the fence over and cut on the test pieces
until I got it just right. Cut my work.

bob g.

Dick Snyder wrote:

I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 20:57:24 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:


"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6"
stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw
has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come
out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out
accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS:

First the good news. The 1/4" shim worked great. Now the bad news: The
surface of the miter table has high pressure laminate on it (formica). The
dados chipped the edges of the hpl. I probably should have taped them or
used a router instead. Fortunately this will spoil the functionality of
the
piece but it looks crappy. What would you have done - tape or router
or.....??


A newly-sharpened composite blade designed for cutting laminates will
leave a sharp edge. I used a new blade and got a very clean cut. In
fact, the result Formica edge can easily cut the skin.

Maybe I don't understand a composite blade. I had to cut a dado. I thought a
composite blade was the width of a normal saw blade (about 1/8" inch or
less).

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 21:39:39 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:


"Phisherman" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 20:57:24 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:


"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6"
stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw
has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come
out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out
accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS:

First the good news. The 1/4" shim worked great. Now the bad news: The
surface of the miter table has high pressure laminate on it (formica). The
dados chipped the edges of the hpl. I probably should have taped them or
used a router instead. Fortunately this will spoil the functionality of
the
piece but it looks crappy. What would you have done - tape or router
or.....??


A newly-sharpened composite blade designed for cutting laminates will
leave a sharp edge. I used a new blade and got a very clean cut. In
fact, the result Formica edge can easily cut the skin.

Maybe I don't understand a composite blade. I had to cut a dado. I thought a
composite blade was the width of a normal saw blade (about 1/8" inch or
less).


The easiest method is to use the spacer such that the composite blade
cuts the edges of the dado. That's all you would do to the test
piece, but on the cut made to your table move the fence for 6
increment passes. No dado blade used in this case.

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...

surface of the miter table has high pressure laminate on it (formica). The
dados chipped the edges of the hpl. I probably should have taped them or
used a router instead. Fortunately this will spoil the functionality of
the
piece but it looks crappy. What would you have done - tape or router
or.....??

The Forrest Dado King is the only Dado blade I know of that might have a
chance at cutting it cleanly. Its a dicy proposition. I think I would try a
test cut to see if it worked. Otherwise, I'd cut a smaller Dado and widen it
with a router on both sides.

I wonder of manual scoring prior to cutting would help? The really high
priced table saws that are supposed to handle this well have motor driven
scoring blades that cut ahead of the main blade/dado.

Bob

"Dick Snyder" wrote in
:

I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6"
stacked dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My
table saw has a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want
to just assume I can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and
everything will come out nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get
this cut to come out accurately other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder



Try two straight pieces of wood clamped to the top of the work piece and a
router with either a pattern bit or a straight bit and a collar. You'll
adjust the distance between the 2 boards according to which method you use
and then just rout out everything in between.

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 20:57:24 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
calmly ranted:

GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS:

First the good news. The 1/4" shim worked great. Now the bad news: The
surface of the miter table has high pressure laminate on it (formica). The
dados chipped the edges of the hpl. I probably should have taped them or
used a router instead. Fortunately this will spoil the functionality of the
piece but it looks crappy. What would you have done - tape or router
or.....??

You forgot to SCORE the top first. Several of us mentioned it.
(Scoring is marking the cut edge with a razor/knife blade.)

Tape helps when you use the table saw, and scoring helps both
tablesaw and router cuts.

--
Like they say, 99% of lawyers give the rest a bad name.
------------------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Lawyer-free Website Development

The best way I've found to prevent chipping and tear-out on the
trailing edge is to clamp or otherwise attach a piece of scrap wood to
the trailing edge of the board so that the dado blade goes through the
board, then through the scrap. This way the scrap suffers the tear-out
instead of the board you're working on.

Scoring the laminate with a utility knife may help too.


"Dick Snyder" wrote in message ...
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS:

First the good news. The 1/4" shim worked great. Now the bad news: The
surface of the miter table has high pressure laminate on it (formica). The
dados chipped the edges of the hpl. I probably should have taped them or
used a router instead. Fortunately this will spoil the functionality of the
piece but it looks crappy. What would you have done - tape or router
or.....??

I can't recall which magazine I read, but taping the surface with
plastic electrical tape before the cut will prevent a ragged edge. I
had not tried this and it sounds logical, but I'd be interested if
anyone tried this method with good results.

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message ...
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

GOOD NEWS AND BAD NEWS:

First the good news. The 1/4" shim worked great. Now the bad news: The
surface of the miter table has high pressure laminate on it (formica). The
dados chipped the edges of the hpl. I probably should have taped them or
used a router instead. Fortunately this will spoil the functionality of the
piece but it looks crappy. What would you have done - tape or router
or.....??

It's the teeth coming DOWN toward the table that tear up the edge,
assuming your saw blade and fence are paralel. Try this: Set up for
first cut but have the blade 1/16 high. Make a scoring cut. Without
moving the fence, raise the blade for your final cut and make it. Then
add or remove your spacer from the fence and do the same two cuts,
scoring and final. Should prevent chipping.

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
...
I have to cut a 1" dado for a miter track using my table saw. My 6" stacked
dado head cutter set will only cut to just over 3/4" wide. My table saw has
a good fence but not a world class fence so I don't want to just assume I
can cut a 3/4" dado, bump the fence over 1/4", and everything will come out
nicely. Does anyone have any tricks to get this cut to come out accurately
other than measure measure measure?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Thank you all so much for your help. This group is really aces!

Dick Snyder