just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just
now getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10
inch blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the
blade will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks
up' about 3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully*
lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position.
hours ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt
and elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops
(but that's not todays issue)

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to
the effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are missing...what are the original
made of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw
seems like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I
used to on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table
up about .625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped
blank then cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

Have you tried this site?
http://tablesawalignment.com/
Art

"dave" wrote in message
...
snip
am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

dave wrote:
....snip story of grief...

Would help to know actual model/SN...

--

"dave" wrote in message
...
just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just now
getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10 inch
blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the blade
will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks up' about
3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully* lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position. hours
ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt and
elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops (but
that's not todays issue)

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to the
effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are missing...what are the original made
of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw seems
like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I used to
on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table up about
.625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped blank then
cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

Well, yours is not the "new style", the new style has just been introduced
in the last few weeks. Check you trunion for cracks, perhaps you have a
broken trunion. The previous generation of Unisaws had a problem with
broken trunions in the past.

On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 21:47:21 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

Well, yours is not the "new style", the new style

I think you're right on here Leon.
I don't believe they even make the "new style" in a right tilt model.

Mike O.

On Jul 10, 10:47*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"dave" wrote in message

...



just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just now
getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10 inch
blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the blade
will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks up' about
3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully* lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position. hours
ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt and
elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops (but
that's not todays issue)

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to the
effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are *missing...what are the original made
of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw seems
like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I used to
on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table up about
.625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped blank then
cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

I have been a Delta dealer for years and I have sold over 500
Unisaws.... other than heavy duty freight damage I never once had a
cracked trunnion problem! What are you talking about?

Mike

model number 34-807, serial number 91E30233, right tilt saw, has
absolutley NO cracked or broken or repaired (welded, brazed, or
otherwise) "anything" inside the saw (or anywhere else, for that
matter), trunions or otherwise - closely examined first hand. nothing
'bent wrong' in there, either.

you can see the ACTUAL saw (or, what it looked like when I 1st got it,
really) at

http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_offloading/

on that same site, top left corner of this image

http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_offload...s/photo27.html

'best' shows bottom of the upper (cast iron) table bolted TO the upper
flange directly ('directly' here meaning: there are no shims between
upper surface of the gray flanges and the female threaded bolt 'bosses'
on the bottoms of the iron top)

back to the original question: are there 'supposed to be' shims, of some
sort, between the top and (gray) thick upper sheet metal flanges?
installing some there is the *ONLY* way I can figure out to make the saw
blade go down FLUSH, or a hair below, the upper table surface when
cranked fully down. that, or I can 'grind away' the bigger tooth 'stops'
on the elevation arc-gear...which seems a *really* poor alternative.

or am I overlooking something?

*thanks* guys

ps - not that it has anything to do with this, but:
photo 35 shows the top of the table -after- I buffed it with a
scotchbrite wheel. the seller stored it in a leaky shed...before I got it.

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

I have been a Delta dealer for years and I have sold over 500
Unisaws.... other than heavy duty freight damage I never once had a
cracked trunnion problem! What are you talking about?

Mike


The common conception is that the Delta trunions problems were from
mishandling.

Food for thought, all other manufacturers shipped their TS's just like Delta
did, have you heard of any other manufacturer having broken trunion
problems? I have not.

Regardless of what caused the broken trunions there are numerous reports of
broken trunions on Unisaws here on the rec in the past 10 years. When I was
shopping for a new TS 10 years ago I compared a Unisaw and Jet cabinet saw
side by side. The Unisaw showed no apparent damage however the store
manager warned me to not try to raise, lower, or tilt the blade as the saw
had a broken trunion and the parts were apparently on BO. Because I was
already aware of the trunion problem and was then seeing it first hand, I
decided to go with the Jet.

dave wrote:
snip

ps - not that it has anything to do with this, but:
photo 35 shows the top of the table -after- I buffed it with a
scotchbrite wheel. the seller stored it in a leaky shed...before I got it.

Hey, Dave ...

Did ya use any "goop" with the wheel? If so, what?

Larry

dave wrote:
model number 34-807, serial number 91E30233, right tilt saw, has
absolutley NO cracked or broken or repaired (welded, brazed, or
otherwise) "anything" inside the saw (or anywhere else, for that
matter), trunions or otherwise - closely examined first hand. nothing
'bent wrong' in there, either.
....

34-807 appears to have been manufactured as 230V/3PH -- any chance
somebody swapped out OEM motor for a single-phase that isn't same
dimensions?

Looking at schematics, Delta shows no spacers between top of cabinet and
bottom of table (and I'd not expect any; never saw any other than some
shimstock individuals had used to fine-tune table) and surely not the
distance you're speaking of.

The P-C/Delta site is so slow w/ my dialup I went here to view schematics --

http://images.toolpartsdirect.com/schematics/delta/34-807_type_1.big.jpg
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/delta/34-807_TYPE_1/

There's a Type 1 and a Type 2--I don't know what the difference there
is, but wouldn't think it material to your problem...

Whatever the problem is, I don't believe it has to do w/ shims on the
table--it's something related to the motor/trunnion mechanism...

Sorry I don't know the exact cure; I've not had a Unisaw directly to
compare to, my TS is a Model 66.

Good luck, hope the schematics help.

If it isn't apparent shortly, I'd call Delta technical support.

--

On Jul 11, 11:24*am, "Leon" wrote:
"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in ...

I have been *a Delta dealer for years and I have sold over 500
Unisaws.... other than heavy duty freight damage I never once had a
cracked trunnion problem! *What are you talking about?

Mike

The common conception is that the Delta trunions problems were from
mishandling.

Food for thought, all other manufacturers shipped their TS's just like Delta
did, have you heard of any other manufacturer having broken trunion
problems? *I have not.

Regardless of what caused the broken trunions there are numerous reports of
broken trunions on Unisaws here on the rec in the past 10 years. *When I was
shopping for a new TS 10 years ago I compared a Unisaw and Jet cabinet saw
side by side. *The Unisaw showed no apparent damage however the store
manager warned me to not try to raise, lower, or tilt the blade as the saw
had a broken trunion and the parts were apparently on BO. *Because I was
already aware of the trunion problem and was then seeing it first hand, I
decided to go with the Jet.

Isolated incident.....never heard of any major numbers with broken
trunnion..sort of the story that I know a guy that knows a guy that
heard about.......I also sold Jet....does not compare to a Unisaw for
fit and finish and holding its value sorry!

dave wrote:

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position. hours
ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt and
elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops
(but that's not todays issue)

When I bought my used Delta contractors saw, the previous owner managed
to put the pulley on backwards, making it impossible to set the blade at
a perfect 90°. The pulley "looked" OK but would hit something when
attempting to set to 90°. Not saying thats the problem, Unisaws have a
different set up completley, I'm just saying....

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to
the effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are missing...what are the original
made of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw
seems like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I
used to on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table
up about .625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped
blank then cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

Isolated incident.....never heard of any major numbers with broken
trunnion..sort of the story that I know a guy that knows a guy that
heard about.......I also sold Jet....does not compare to a Unisaw for
fit and finish and holding its value sorry!


OK Mike, first you say "other than heavy duty freight damage I never once
had a cracked trunnion problem."
Now you are saying, "never heard of any major numbers with broken trunnion".
Does that mean that you have heard of broken trunions but never saw one your
self?

As I mentioned above, the common conception was that the Delta trunions
problems were from mishandling.

It may sound isolated to you but contact Delta and I assure you, if anyone
is left, they have certainly heard of the problem. Again I state, I was
not totally shocked when I saw the broken trunion myself as I had heard of
the problem.
It simply is not a case of a guy knowing a guy that knew a guy.

Jet fit and finish? I'd say 10 years ago Jet had the certain advantage, I
could care less as far as holding value, it has paid for itself many times
over and it will probably out last me. Sorry. The new Unisaw shames most
all saws except for perhaps the SawStop as far as fit and finish goes.

I am not here to bad mouth the Unisaw, I was simply pointing out that the OP
should take a close look at the trunion as the broken trunions have been a
problem/something to watch out for in the past. I am certainly not saying
to not buy a Unisaw but if considering an older one you it would be very
wise to check the trunion.

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

Just to add a bit to my comments,

http://www.varioustopics.com/woodwor...runnion-7.html

Aditionally, a comment by UnisawA100, "Keeter?" about the new Unisaw as
opposed to the older unisaw trunion problems.

During the early design process these castings were computer modeled and
virtually crash tested prior to establishing the final design. In the end
they behaved as modeled (they hold up).

"As an aside, the same computer modeling and virtual crash testing was retro
performed on the old trunnion and bracket design and without any prompting
this showed the same flaw that some past users have found (cracks and breaks
at the ears of the trunnion brackets). "


If you like you can read the whole article. The above comments seems to
validate that Delta was converned about not having anymore broken trunion
problems when computer testing the new Unisaw trunion.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr... psed&sb=5&o=

dave wrote:
just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just
now getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10
inch blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the
blade will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks
up' about 3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully*
lowered.
(snip)

am I overlooking something?

Have you measured the blade?

Leon wrote:
....
I am not here to bad mouth the Unisaw, I was simply pointing out that the OP
should take a close look at the trunion as the broken trunions have been a
problem/something to watch out for in the past. I am certainly not saying
to not buy a Unisaw but if considering an older one you it would be very
wise to check the trunion.

Seem difficult to have a break to the point of mal-operation that
wouldn't be quite visible when had saw fully disassembled???

It would take more than just a hairline crack to grossly change the
geometry and my understanding of these was they basically broke in two
if subjected to drop forces in essence.

But, certainly sounds as if there's something wrong down there somewhere
so looking for stuff would be good...

--

On Jul 10, 8:56*pm, dave wrote:
just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just
now getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10
inch blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the
blade will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks
up' about 3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully*
lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
* when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position.
hours ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt
and elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops
(but that's not todays issue)

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to
the effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are *missing...what are the original
made of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw
seems like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I
used to on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table
up about .625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped
blank then cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie

I had the problem of the blade not lowering enough on my 25+ year old
unisaw when I first got it. Delta wanted to replace the trunnions.
Seems to me I loosened the set screws on the worm gear that raised and
lowered the blade and moved it untill it cleared the throat plate.
Ted

"Leon" writes:

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

Isolated incident.....never heard of any major numbers with broken
trunnion..sort of the story that I know a guy that knows a guy that
heard about.......I also sold Jet....does not compare to a Unisaw for
fit and finish and holding its value sorry!

There are 137 news articles in this newsgroup that have
unisaw broken trunnion
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.w...t=0&scoring=d&

Maxwell Lol wrote:
....
There are 137 news articles in this newsgroup that have
unisaw broken trunnion
....

In what, probably 10-15 threads???

--

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Maxwell Lol wrote:
...
There are 137 news articles in this newsgroup that have unisaw broken
trunnion
...

In what, probably 10-15 threads???

--

WOW! 10 Breaks is more than I have ever heard of.

Leon wrote:


"dpb" wrote in message
...
Maxwell Lol wrote:
...
There are 137 news articles in this newsgroup that have unisaw broken
trunnion
...

In what, probably 10-15 threads???

--

WOW! 10 Breaks is more than I have ever heard of.
My Jet works fine and it's paid for!
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586
Website Address http://rentmyhusband.biz/

The arbor bracket rides directly on the worm gear, which is on the same
shaft as the crank for raising and lowering the blade. It might be easiest
to take the table off to check it out. As you crank the blade up and down,
the arbor bracket pivots, and when it gets to the end of it's travel, there
is a stop at each end that bumps up against the worm gear. The worm gear is
held onto the shaft by a pin, and toe shaft is held in position by a stop
collar on the rear end of the shaft. If the worm gear and the arbor bracket
are misaligned, it will cause the symptoms you are experiencing. My guess
would be that either the worm gear was removed at some point and reinstalled
backward, or that the shaft has moved toward the rear thus misaligning the
worm gear and arbor bracket.

Doug

"dave" wrote in message
...
just got this thing, used. got it about a year ago, actually, but just now
getting around to setting it up to USE it. put on a brand new 10 inch
blade, but, when I crank the elevation knob ALL the way down, the blade
will NOT go down below surface of the table-it actually 'sticks up' about
3/16ths higher -above- the upper table surface when *fully* lowered.

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position.

On Jul 11, 11:24*am, "Leon" wrote:
"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in ...

I have been *a Delta dealer for years and I have sold over 500
Unisaws.... other than heavy duty freight damage I never once had a
cracked trunnion problem! *What are you talking about?

Mike

The common conception is that the Delta trunions problems were from
mishandling.

Food for thought, all other manufacturers shipped their TS's just like Delta
did, have you heard of any other manufacturer having broken trunion
problems? *I have not.

Regardless of what caused the broken trunions there are numerous reports of
broken trunions on Unisaws here on the rec in the past 10 years. *When I was
shopping for a new TS 10 years ago I compared a Unisaw and Jet cabinet saw
side by side. *The Unisaw showed no apparent damage however the store
manager warned me to not try to raise, lower, or tilt the blade as the saw
had a broken trunion and the parts were apparently on BO. *Because I was
already aware of the trunion problem and was then seeing it first hand, I
decided to go with the Jet.

the reason he sold you a Jet is that a dealer makes more money selling
Jet that Delta.or he was on credit hold with Delta and needed to move
inventory for $$. He done it for greed Not customer service. I also
sold Jet and in no way does it compare to the quality of Delta in the
long haul.

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

the reason he sold you a Jet is that a dealer makes more money selling
Jet that Delta.or he was on credit hold with Delta and needed to move
inventory for $$. He done it for greed Not customer service. I also
sold Jet and in no way does it compare to the quality of Delta in the
long haul.

"Horse "s-it"! I will not doubt that there may have been more money to be
made but the quality was in favor of the Jet.
Jet's simply arrived intact. I higly suspect he did it for less chance of a
customer complaint after a DOA Unisaw delivery.
Say what you will but your view is apparently only considering what you have
personally seen. Many many others, as I have pointed out to you, have seen
differently.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

the reason he sold you a Jet is that a dealer makes more money selling
Jet that Delta.or he was on credit hold with Delta and needed to move
inventory for $$. He done it for greed Not customer service. I also
sold Jet and in no way does it compare to the quality of Delta in the
long haul.

"Horse "s-it"! I will not doubt that there may have been more money to be
made but the quality was in favor of the Jet.
Jet's simply arrived intact. I higly suspect he did it for less chance of
a customer complaint after a DOA Unisaw delivery.
Say what you will but your view is apparently only considering what you
have personally seen. Many many others, as I have pointed out to you,
have seen differently.

Additionally, I did not buy the Jet from the dealer that had the broken
Unisaw. I bought from a dealer that also sold both Delta and Jet. He had
more Delta on display than Jet and had to order my saw, he had the Unisaw in
stock.

On Jul 17, 8:26*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

...





"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
....

the reason he sold you a Jet is that a dealer makes more money selling
Jet that Delta.or he was on credit hold with Delta and needed to move
inventory for $$. * He done it for greed Not customer service. *I also
sold Jet and in no way does it compare to the quality of Delta in the
long haul.

"Horse "s-it"! *I will not doubt that there may have been more money to be
made but the quality was in favor of the Jet.
Jet's simply arrived intact. *I higly suspect he did it for less chance of
a customer complaint after a DOA Unisaw delivery.
Say what you will but your view is apparently only considering what you
have personally seen. *Many many others, as I have pointed out to you,
have seen differently.

Additionally, I did not buy the Jet from the dealer that had the broken
Unisaw. *I bought from a dealer that also sold both Delta and Jet. *He had
more Delta on display than Jet and had to order my saw, he had the Unisaw in
stock.

Leon:

I have been in the industry for over 30 years. I sold Jet....a lot of
Jet...and we took it out of the box and put most pieces together to
avoid customer complaints and the customer having to return to the
store to get a part or an exchange....no one is going to tell me that
Jet products on the whole is better than Delta...I know from hands on
experience....not what I read on some chat room. I can tell you that
the margins are higher with Jet and we made more money selling Jet,
but you had to put up with alot more trouble and problems.

I never had any broken trunnions from Delta because I was a good
dealer and sold and serviced my customers. I delivered most of the
saws myself...shipping the tools by some cowboy truck driver dropping
them out the back was probably what happened if any saws were
broke. .
Good luck,
Mike

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...
snip

Leon:

I have been in the industry for over 30 years.

And 30 years ago the Unisaw was a good saw. But I remind you we are talking
10 years ago. You seem to have a hard time believing that, I eye
witnessed it after hearing about it. I was going to buy a Unisaw but the
obvious choice was staring me right in the face.

I sold Jet....a lot of
Jet...and we took it out of the box and put most pieces together to
avoid customer complaints and the customer having to return to the
store to get a part or an exchange....no one is going to tell me that
Jet products on the whole is better than Delta...

I put my Jet together in the garage, I do not recall having any problems.


I know from hands on
experience....not what I read on some chat room.

Your hands on knowledge is limited to what "you" have seen. Mine is limited
to what "I" have seen. And I saw what was happening to others.
Did you read the piece that Keith Bond wrote? He being a respected Unisaw
expert also acknowledged that the Unisaws were having issues.



I can tell you that
the margins are higher with Jet and we made more money selling Jet,
but you had to put up with alot more trouble and problems.

I don't know about how Jet was 15 years ago but 10 years ago plain and
simple my gut told me to go with the Jet over the Unisaw and I am glad I
did. Had I bought a Unisaw I would probably be just as happy. But common
sense told me that if you hear of a problem and then eye witness the problem
,"there is a problem".


I never had any broken trunnions from Delta because I was a good
dealer and sold and serviced my customers.

Good for you.

I delivered most of the
saws myself...

As did my dealer.

shipping the tools by some cowboy truck driver dropping
them out the back was probably what happened if any saws were
broke. .

Could be but I have not heard of problems with any other brands being
damaged during shipping except for Grizzley.

"mike from American Sycamore" wrote in message
...

Leon:

I have been in the industry for over 30 years.

And in your earlier post you mentioned that you had been a Delta dealer for
years and sold over 500
Unisaws.... other than heavy duty freight damage you never once had a
cracked trunnion problem!

Are you saying you sold over 500 Unisaws in 30 years???? An average of 1.5
units per month??? I really don't think you had a good sampling of what was
being produced and delivered.




I never had any broken trunnions from Delta because I was a good
dealer and sold and serviced my customers.

but, but , you said above that other than heavy duty freight damage you
never once saw a cracked trunnion problem.

Either you did or did not.


Mike, in closing this comversation with you, I will restate what I have been
saying all along. Delta had a problem with cracked trunions some 10 years
ago, for what ever reason. Your statement on a couple of occasions in this
thread have contridicted each other. I totally believe that you are
convinced that you have had good luck with the Unisaw. I am totally
convensed by eye witnessing the problem that others have actually had
problems.

Good day.

Doug S wrote:
The arbor bracket rides directly on the worm gear, which is on the same
shaft as the crank for raising and lowering the blade. It might be easiest
to take the table off to check it out. As you crank the blade up and down,
the arbor bracket pivots, and when it gets to the end of it's travel, there
is a stop at each end that bumps up against the worm gear. The worm gear is
held onto the shaft by a pin, and toe shaft is held in position by a stop
collar on the rear end of the shaft. If the worm gear and the arbor bracket
are misaligned, it will cause the symptoms you are experiencing. My guess
would be that either the worm gear was removed at some point and reinstalled
backward, or that the shaft has moved toward the rear thus misaligning the
worm gear and arbor bracket.

I've had the table on and off already. it's back on now, this time
"shimmed up"

http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/

in addition, 'it looks to me' as if all my tilt and elevation gears are
in correct relation to one another, in all planes of reference...

doug, when you said "...held onto the shaft by a pin, and toe shaft is
held in position ..." I'm a bit foggy on what's a "toe shaft"? that a
typo and you meant "the shaft"

it DOES occur to me, though, that maybe some previous owner
're-installed' the worm 180 degrees 'out of synch' with the bore of the
original crosspin....so possibly that 'half-turn of the worm' is the
cause of this problem ???

thanks doug, I'm still looking into this... :-/

I'm gonna GUESS here that no matter HOW much assembly of the unisaw (my
model) was required on 'day one new' day, that installing the elevation
worm onto it's shaft *wasn't* one of the assembly steps the 'new owner'
was required to do. and I can't see any reason for ANYone prior to me
ever having 'removed' and re-installing' the elevation worm, either,
seeing as the saw is, for all practical purposes, brand new, or "near
brand new, anyway" (though, still....'could be')

so, I'm still baffled...

---------------------------

ted said:

I had the problem of the blade not lowering enough on my 25+ year old
unisaw when I first got it. Delta wanted to replace the trunnions.
Seems to me I loosened the set screws on the worm gear that raised and
lowered the blade and moved it untill it cleared the throat plate.

per the drawing (and my newly posted images he
http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/). MY worm gear is
"through-pinned" to the worm shaft, making the approach you describe
undoable (on my saw, at least)...

thanks ted

dave wrote:
....
per the drawing (and my newly posted images he
http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/). MY worm gear is
"through-pinned" to the worm shaft, making the approach you describe
undoable (on my saw, at least)...
....

Would it be possible to be a tooth/spline off from intended matching
point, perhaps, if somebody had disassembled it previously?

I'm still curious about the motor, though....is this still the original
3P motor on it?

--

"dave" wrote in message
...

I've had the table on and off already. it's back on now, this time
"shimmed up"

http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/

in addition, 'it looks to me' as if all my tilt and elevation gears are in
correct relation to one another, in all planes of reference...

Now that you have shimmed the top, does the fence still indicate the same
cutting distance at the table surface when the blade is in the 90 and 45
degree tilt settings? Raising or lowering the table can throw this off and
is the primary reason for shimming. The resulting cutting width should be
the same regardless of what bevel setting that the blade is set at.






doug, when you said "...held onto the shaft by a pin, and toe shaft is
held in position ..." I'm a bit foggy on what's a "toe shaft"? that a typo
and you meant "the shaft"

it DOES occur to me, though, that maybe some previous owner 're-installed'
the worm 180 degrees 'out of synch' with the bore of the original
crosspin....so possibly that 'half-turn of the worm' is the cause of this
problem ???

thanks doug, I'm still looking into this... :-/

I'm gonna GUESS here that no matter HOW much assembly of the unisaw (my
model) was required on 'day one new' day, that installing the elevation
worm onto it's shaft *wasn't* one of the assembly steps the 'new owner'
was required to do. and I can't see any reason for ANYone prior to me ever
having 'removed' and re-installing' the elevation worm, either, seeing as
the saw is, for all practical purposes, brand new, or "near brand new,
anyway" (though, still....'could be')

so, I'm still baffled...

"Perhaps" a reason could be that part of the trunnion has been replaced and
the elevation handle/gear was not in the correct orientation during
reassembly.

"dpb" wrote in message
...
dave wrote:
...
per the drawing (and my newly posted images he
http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_worm_and_shims/). MY worm gear is
"through-pinned" to the worm shaft, making the approach you describe
undoable (on my saw, at least)...
...

Would it be possible to be a tooth/spline off from intended matching
point, perhaps, if somebody had disassembled it previously?

I'm still curious about the motor, though....is this still the original 3P
motor on it?

--

The schematic indicates a 3 phase 7.5 motor but other pictures show a 3
hpase 5 hp motor hanging on the saw.
Having been used in a school the 3 hpase would sound right.

Did you know that Dave??

Leon wrote:
....
The schematic indicates a 3 phase 7.5 motor but other pictures show a 3
hpase 5 hp motor hanging on the saw.
Having been used in a school the 3 hpase would sound right.
....

Hadn't noticed anything about saw's previous use only that schematics
showed the model was manufactured as 3PH--and that since most
individuals don't have 3PH power handy made me wonder about whether
somebody could have swapped out the OEM motor for something else which
doesn't have correct geometry before the OP got it...

Maybe the 5/7.5 hp is the Type 1/Type 2 difference I saw noted on
schematics earlier???

--

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
...
The schematic indicates a 3 phase 7.5 motor but other pictures show a 3
hpase 5 hp motor hanging on the saw.
Having been used in a school the 3 hpase would sound right.
...

Hadn't noticed anything about saw's previous use only that schematics
showed the model was manufactured as 3PH--and that since most individuals
don't have 3PH power handy made me wonder about whether somebody could
have swapped out the OEM motor for something else which doesn't have
correct geometry before the OP got it...

Maybe the 5/7.5 hp is the Type 1/Type 2 difference I saw noted on
schematics earlier???

--

This link shows the 5 hp 3ph motor.

http://machines.2x.nu/unisaw_offload...s/photo32.html

Leon wrote:
....

This link shows the 5 hp 3ph motor.
....snip...

I personally really didn't care; was just trying to point OP into a
possible reason for the described clearance anomaly...

Somehow the shaft adjustment being off seems mostly likely culprit still
other than swapped-out parts. I'm convinced there were no shims needed
on original table when it left the factory...

Of course, I've an old "Rockwell Delta" jointer that was pieced together
from discarded castings that (apparently) were salvaged from a used iron
dealer before they were shipped off for remelt...undoubtedly the saw
under discussion has at least a slightly better provenance than that,
but "ya' never knows" where something used/secondhand may have come from.

--