dave wrote:

also, and amazingly, the arbor pulley "binds" on the bottom of the table
when the blade is raised (cranked up) to it's "full up" position. hours
ago I had the top off (general cleanup, & trying to debug the tilt and
elevate 'squeaks') but I've since put it back on. saw the TILT stops
(but that's not todays issue)

When I bought my used Delta contractors saw, the previous owner managed
to put the pulley on backwards, making it impossible to set the blade at
a perfect 90°. The pulley "looked" OK but would hit something when
attempting to set to 90°. Not saying thats the problem, Unisaws have a
different set up completley, I'm just saying....

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com

no MENTION (in pdf manuals and sites I find online) of the blade having
any upper -or- lower elevation 'stops', other than to say something to
the effect of "the elevation stops are built in so no adjustment is
neccessary". so, sheesh, now what?

am I supposed to have some sort of 'shims' under those four huge allens,
one at each corner? if so, mine are missing...what are the original
made of, and how thick ARE (or were) they?

also, guys: making zero-clearance throat-plate inserts for this saw
seems like is gonna be a sack-busta, seeing as, in order to do it like I
used to on my old craftsman, I'd need to (apparently) 'shim' this table
up about .625 (five eights of an inch) in order to "drop in the shaped
blank then cut the blade hole by raising"

whoa, this is starting to look pretty draggy....

am I overlooking something?

thanks for clues and tips on this guys

toolie