[mac davis]

I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on them..lol


I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Thanks,


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[woodman]

Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
Don't use vegetable oils.

Woody


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
them..lol


I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Thanks,


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[Frank Boettcher]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" wrote:

Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
Don't use vegetable oils.

Woody


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
them..lol


I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Thanks,


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



I use cold pressed walnut oil I buy at the health food store. Until
it won't take it any more. Then melt down some beeswax, mix it with
walnut oil about fifty-fifty and rub it down, buff it out.

There was some discussion about nut allergy issues, but I think it was
resolved that the walnut was not a problem.

Frank

[dadiOH]

mac davis wrote:
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I
could sand and refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff"
on them..lol


I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions
here on what to use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting
board finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an
evil lemon smell that my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Boiled linseed oil. After it dries in a couple of days it is totally
safe. Shiny stuff won't last and mineral oil never dries. BLO won't
last forever either but is sopa de pato to renew.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[Leon]

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
them..lol


I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Thanks,


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?
If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.
If he is going to use it, in a restaurant, it will not look nice and shiny
long at all. Better to resurface, sand and return it to him.

I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To this
day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or finish at
all.
I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.

[George]

"Leon" wrote in message
t...
Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?
If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.

Disagree. Oil that won't cure catches dust, doghair, greasy dirty
fingerprints and food odors. Not to mention sheltering bacteria from your
detergent.

If he is going to use it, in a restaurant, it will not look nice and shiny
long at all. Better to resurface, sand and return it to him.


If he's going to use it in a restaraunt he'll conform with local health
regulations. We used to salt our tallow and lard-laden boards every night
back in the days.

I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To
this day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or
finish at all.
I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.


Bare is best, cured oil second.

[Frank Drackman]

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
them..lol


I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Mineral Oil

[Leon]

"George" wrote in message
. net...

"Leon" wrote in message
t...
Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?
If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.

Disagree. Oil that won't cure catches dust, doghair, greasy dirty
fingerprints and food odors. Not to mention sheltering bacteria from your
detergent.


I was suggesting Mineral Oil for looking pretty not for use. Hopefully in a
restaurant this would be dusted once in a while and hopefully would not be
getting any DOG HAIR on it. ;~)

[Lee Michaels]

"Leon" wrote

I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To
this day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or
finish at all.
I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.



I wish I had some of my shop projects from that era. That is a long time
ago.

Just a suggestion, maybe the wife would appreciate a NEW cutting board.

d, r & h

[woodman]

Unless it was a Chinese restaurant...


I was suggesting Mineral Oil for looking pretty not for use. Hopefully in
a restaurant this would be dusted once in a while and hopefully would not
be getting any DOG HAIR on it. ;~)

[SonomaProducts.com]

If these are being used as cutting boards in the kitchen where they
chop food directly on the surface, then
1. They should not have any "shiny finish" or any finish at all.
2. The local authorities will likely have a pescribed cleaning and
application requirment.

I think you should be safe buying the mineral oil mixture (with other
ingredients) from Boos company. They are one of the few companies with
the NFS certification which is required for wood surface materials
with direct food contact and their stuff is surely approved.

If they are cuttin board like counters, then spray them with anything
you've got.

On Oct 15, 1:12 pm, mac davis wrote:
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on them..lol

I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Thanks,

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[Andy Dingley]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Boiled linseed oil.

Poor choice. Firstly it's a flm-forming oil, so it won't last for a
cutting board.

Secondly it tastes disgusting. It _will_ taint citrus fruit.

Thirdly it's too toxic to use for food. Linseed driers just aren't a
good addition to the diet. Even the alternatives to lead, like cobalt,
are far from advisable for consumption.


I'd use a vegetable oil that doesn't go rancid, such as real Chinese
camellia (not the Japanese fake), otherwise walnut or grapeseed. Don;t
use olive, it goes rancid. Mineral oil ("Liquid paraffin" from a UK
pharmacist) is also safe.

[Leon]

"woodman" wrote in message
news:ypSQi.394$cI5.12@trnddc06...
Unless it was a Chinese restaurant...



I was going to add that but then I was trying to play nice. ;~)

[Leon]

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
. ..

"Leon" wrote

I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To
this day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or
finish at all.
I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.



I wish I had some of my shop projects from that era. That is a long time
ago.

I still have a wrought iron magazine rack that I designed and made out of
1/8" thick x 1" wide band iron, rivited with 3/8" wide rivits pounded with a
ball peen hammer. I made that the same year.


Just a suggestion, maybe the wife would appreciate a NEW cutting board.


Actually, just before we bought our first house 26 years ago I built her a
roll around Maple butcher block trimmed with Padauk. She prefers the one I
made in school. It is easer to rinse off/clean under the faucet.

[SonomaProducts.com]

All the informed literature says not to use any food oils, especially
nut oils. They will go rancid. That's what food oils. do.

On Oct 15, 1:28 pm, Frank Boettcher wrote:
On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" wrote:
Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
Don't use vegetable oils.

Woody

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
them..lol

I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Thanks,

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I use cold pressed walnut oil I buy at the health food store. Until
it won't take it any more. Then melt down some beeswax, mix it with
walnut oil about fifty-fifty and rub it down, buff it out.

There was some discussion about nut allergy issues, but I think it was
resolved that the walnut was not a problem.

Frank- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

[Owen Lawrence]

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Boiled linseed oil.

Poor choice. Firstly it's a flm-forming oil, so it won't last for a
cutting board.

Secondly it tastes disgusting. It _will_ taint citrus fruit.

Thirdly it's too toxic to use for food. Linseed driers just aren't a
good addition to the diet. Even the alternatives to lead, like cobalt,
are far from advisable for consumption.


I'd use a vegetable oil that doesn't go rancid, such as real Chinese
camellia (not the Japanese fake), otherwise walnut or grapeseed. Don;t
use olive, it goes rancid. Mineral oil ("Liquid paraffin" from a UK
pharmacist) is also safe.

I've been using olive oil. How long before it goes rancid?

- Owen -

[J T]

Mon, Oct 15, 2007, 9:13pm (EDT+4) (Leon)
doth remember:
snip I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop
class. To this day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine
snip

Heh. Gotcha beat. Still got a solid cherry bookcase I had to
design, draft a plan of, then build, in shop, era '55-56.



JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."

[J T]

Mon, Oct 15, 2007, 8:30pm (EDT-3) (SonomaProducts.com)
doth claimeth:
All the informed literature says not to use any food oils, especially
nut oils. They will go rancid. That's what food oils. do.

And what "informed literature" would that be? I've experimented
with cooking oils as finishes for years. None of them got rancid. In
fact I once contacted a food science professor, and he told me that
cooking oils go rancid if they've been exposd to high heat, as in
cooking. As I type this, I'm sitting beside a rocking chair I made,
then finished with cooking oil, probably around 10 years ago, it's still
doing fine, still not rancid. I'd be interested in reading some of this
"informed literature".



JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."

[J. Clarke]

woodman wrote:
Unless it was a Chinese restaurant...

Wok your puppy?

I was suggesting Mineral Oil for looking pretty not for use.
Hopefully in a restaurant this would be dusted once in a while and
hopefully would not be getting any DOG HAIR on it. ;~)

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

[Andy Dingley]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 23:55:14 -0400, "Owen Lawrence"
wrote:

I've been using olive oil. How long before it goes rancid?

Depends on the quality of your oil, the climate and the use the board
gets. If it's a well-scrubbed chopping board (rather than a salad bowl)
then the wear and replenishment rate of the oil might be enough to never
have it happen. I'd still avoid it, in favour of walnut -- it's just a
question of picking the other bottle up from the shelf in the kitchen.

[Frank Boettcher]

On 15 Oct 2007 20:30:33 -0700, "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

All the informed literature says not to use any food oils, especially
nut oils. They will go rancid. That's what food oils. do.

Informed literature? I've been using walnut oil for years have never
had a problem with it going rancid.

On Oct 15, 1:28 pm, Frank Boettcher wrote:
On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" wrote:
Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
Don't use vegetable oils.

Woody

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
them..lol

I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Thanks,

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I use cold pressed walnut oil I buy at the health food store. Until
it won't take it any more. Then melt down some beeswax, mix it with
walnut oil about fifty-fifty and rub it down, buff it out.

There was some discussion about nut allergy issues, but I think it was
resolved that the walnut was not a problem.

Frank- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

[dadiOH]

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Boiled linseed oil.

Poor choice. Firstly it's a flm-forming oil, so it won't last for a
cutting board.

It also soaks in and will last as well as anything.

In reality, there is little point in using *anything* on a cutting
board. Ever see a butcher's block? (A real butcher, not a
supermarket one.) Those blocks have nothing on them but are scraped
daily.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[Swingman]

"Frank Boettcher" wrote

Informed literature?

Means you're obviously ill-informed literature wise, Frank.



--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/30/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

[mac davis]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" wrote:

Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
Don't use vegetable oils.

Woody


I'm sort of leaning that way, Woody, after spending a couple of hours DAG..

Seems like mineral oil, mineral oil and beeswax and walnut oil are the
favorites..
I have lots of mineral oil from a previous attempt to use it for wet sanding
turnings, so that might be the fastest solution (no pun intended) and easiest to
have the chef repeat often..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[mac davis]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH" wrote:

Boiled linseed oil. After it dries in a couple of days it is totally
safe. Shiny stuff won't last and mineral oil never dries. BLO won't
last forever either but is sopa de pato to renew.

Hmm... the wonder of this group..
I must have read 30 or 40 pages last night and BLO didn't come up...
I guess the smell goes away in a few days, so that would work.. doesn't attract
dust like mineral oil does, either..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[mac davis]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:13:00 GMT, "Leon" wrote:

Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?

Must just be for use... I eat there a lot and have never seen it..

If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.
If he is going to use it, in a restaurant, it will not look nice and shiny
long at all. Better to resurface, sand and return it to him.

That was my thought.. might be safer and faster, too..

I made a maple cutting board/block in 1969 in Jr. High shop class. To this
day my wife uses it every day and it is still just fine, no oil or finish at
all.
I did run it through the planer to flatten it back out about 3 years ago.

I hadn't even thought about planing.. have to see if it just needs sanding or if
the planer would be a good idea first..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"mac davis" wrote in message
Hmm... the wonder of this group..
I must have read 30 or 40 pages last night and BLO didn't come up...
I guess the smell goes away in a few days, so that would work.. doesn't
attract
dust like mineral oil does, either..


I've used mineral oil on quite a few boards. It never attracted dust, dog
hair, grass clippings, or any of the other negatives some mentioned. It is
sold in stores as a cutting board oil, buy mine came from the drug store.

[mac davis]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 21:26:52 GMT, "Leon" wrote:


"George" wrote in message
.net...

"Leon" wrote in message
t...
Is this to be for display and look pretty or will he be using it?
If you want it to look pretty, mineral oil works.

Disagree. Oil that won't cure catches dust, doghair, greasy dirty
fingerprints and food odors. Not to mention sheltering bacteria from your
detergent.


I was suggesting Mineral Oil for looking pretty not for use. Hopefully in a
restaurant this would be dusted once in a while and hopefully would not be
getting any DOG HAIR on it. ;~)

Well, this IS Mexico... Hopefully it won't be getting any dog MEAT on it..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[mac davis]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 16:17:38 -0700, "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

If these are being used as cutting boards in the kitchen where they
chop food directly on the surface, then
1. They should not have any "shiny finish" or any finish at all.
2. The local authorities will likely have a pescribed cleaning and
application requirment.

Hmm... Being in Mexico, all the local authorities care about is getting their
"taxes"... I doubt that there IS a sanitary code here..

I think you should be safe buying the mineral oil mixture (with other
ingredients) from Boos company. They are one of the few companies with
the NFS certification which is required for wood surface materials
with direct food contact and their stuff is surely approved.

I'm thinking more and more that no finish is best...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[NoOne N Particular]

mac davis wrote:
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on them..lol


I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Thanks,


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
I remember my stint in Coast Guard boot camp a few different lives ago.
We had to have a week of duty in the kitchen (ok, mess halls), and I
was in a station that had a very large butcher block. The end-of-day
routine for it was to simply wash it down (plain water if I remember
correctly), and then cover it with about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of salt. If a
butcher block can take the abuse of hundreds of Coast Guard recruits
preparing tens of thousands of meals, it should handle a restaurant too.

Wayne

[dadiOH]

mac davis wrote:
On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:57:39 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Boiled linseed oil. After it dries in a couple of days it is
totally safe. Shiny stuff won't last and mineral oil never dries.
BLO won't last forever either but is sopa de pato to renew.

Hmm... the wonder of this group..
I must have read 30 or 40 pages last night and BLO didn't come up...
I guess the smell goes away in a few days, so that would work.

Yes, as soon as it dries. In the interim, you can make it smell nicer
by adding a bit of oil of wintergreen.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[SonomaProducts.com]

I love this subject. It never fails to raise the hackles of a few
people. I'm not sure why it's so emotional but it always is. I am
stealing time from my boss right now but once I'm back home this
evening I'll dig through my research and see how I was informed on
this subject. It's been a few years since I did the research but I was
satisfied I had covered my liabilities so I surely have the
references.

On Oct 16, 4:06 am, Frank Boettcher wrote:
On 15 Oct 2007 20:30:33 -0700, "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

All the informed literature says not to use any food oils, especially
nut oils. They will go rancid. That's what food oils. do.

Informed literature? I've been using walnut oil for years have never
had a problem with it going rancid.



On Oct 15, 1:28 pm, Frank Boettcher wrote:
On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 20:25:33 GMT, "woodman" wrote:
Mineral oil. You could buy "salad bowl finish" but mineral oil works best.
Don't use vegetable oils.

Woody

"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
I got a call from a friend with a restaurant today, asking if I could sand
and
refinish his 2 cutting boards..

They're "several" inches thick and used to have "some shiny stuff" on
them..lol

I'll look at them Friday night but thought I'd get some opinions here on
what to
use for a coating/finish on 'em..

I e-did one in our house in the states using a commercial "cutting board
finish"but can't remember what it was, only that it had an evil lemon
smell that
my wife hated.. lol

Any suggestions?

(I'm in Mexico, so if it works, that's fine, no EPA here)

Thanks,

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I use cold pressed walnut oil I buy at the health food store. Until
it won't take it any more. Then melt down some beeswax, mix it with
walnut oil about fifty-fifty and rub it down, buff it out.

There was some discussion about nut allergy issues, but I think it was
resolved that the walnut was not a problem.

Frank- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

[Phisherman]

I've just completed a bread slicer, made from a couple pine scraps I
had. I finished it using (pharmacy) mineral oil.

[[email protected]]

This thread comes along every few months, and I always get a chuckle.
Being ever the empiricist, I have observed the following:

I have made most of the turners, spoons, serving ware and utility
utensils we use in our very busy kitchen. There is an assortment of
woods, and each has been treated with different oils and oil/wax
blends. No difference in smell, texture, wear or anything else has
been noticed by myself or SO.

And then I think... If I am so scared of uncured oils penetrating my
treenware, why do I use them on my wok? Why do I use them for frying
and stirring? Surely turning a piece of fatty fish (salmon) fish
quick seared at high heat would encompass the fears of some here,
no?

Or turning burgers in a teflon skillet with my white oak wide body
turner... wouldn't those fats work their way into the wood? One would
think. But so far, no problems. Wash, dry, put in rack. With about
25 or so turners, spoons, stirrers and testing spoons I don't have ANY
smells from anything on these utensils. They have been in use for
years now.

And what about that cutting board. After reading these threads I
think well... should I cut that damn brisket or dismantle those ribs
on that wooden thing or not? Hot grease and meat juice would
certainly penetrate the wood and not only smell to high heaven after
it goes rancid, but it could make any or all of sick.

Thankfully, years and years of cutting up raw meats, sausages, cooked
meats and vegetables of all types on wooden boards sealed with
whatever I have on hand when I think they need a little quick moisture
have resulted in no foul odors, no mildew, no sickness.

You should put whatever you want on your board, understanding that the
oils offer little or no protection. What is important is that you
clean them properly and allow them to dry thoroughly when changing
preparations.

BTW, I learned from an amigo of mine that worked in a butcher shop for
years that they NEVER clean the butcher block with any kind of soap,
water, or detergent, nor do they put any finish on it.

After a hard day of hacking and chopping, they cleaned the block off
as best they could with a towel, scraped it with a cabinet scraper,
and scrubbed the daylights out of it with a lemon that was cut in
half, then mashed into kosher salt for grit.

My personal obervation after sawing into a board with test oils on
them is that while they make make the wood more attractive, they
coatings don't do much on cutting boards or tools.

I do like the walnut oils on bowls, etc. that can have liquid collect
in the bottom. Mike Mahoney makes a special curing walnut oil for
bowls that is supposed to be great, and that should work as well as
anything else for light wood protection.

As always....

Just my 0.02.

Robert

[Lew Hodgett]

wrote:

This thread comes along every few months, and I always get a
chuckle.
snip

I'm curious.

In this day and age of low cost, FDA approved, polypropolene cutting
boards, why bother making a wooden one except as a display piece or a
gift.

Lew

[[email protected]]

On Oct 17, 2:59 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

I'm curious.

In this day and age of low cost, FDA approved, polypropolene cutting
boards, why bother making a wooden one except as a display piece or a
gift.

Lew

Actually, some folks have run an entirely new battery of tests that
indicate that the old woodies are safer for the kitchen than plastic
due to the grooves left by a sharp knife. With a plastic board, the
soft plastic simply rolls over on either side of the groove left when
cutting. Examination of my own polyprop boards revealed this scratchy
feeling surface. On a wood board, cutting raises the cut grain, and
the raised/severed fibers are knocked, rubbed, flecked, or washed off,
leaving the clean groove behind with nothing to hold the bacteria.

I willingly admit that in practical application the difference in the
two may not amount to a fart in a tornado, but no one likes facts like
this group.

I personally like the wooden cutting boards as their bulk an weight
make them better suited to my cutting style, and while it may be my
imagination, it seems my knives stay sharper longer on the wood
boards.

Robert

[Frank Boettcher]

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 01:40:18 -0700, "
wrote:

On Oct 17, 2:59 am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

I'm curious.

In this day and age of low cost, FDA approved, polypropolene cutting
boards, why bother making a wooden one except as a display piece or a
gift.

Lew

Actually, some folks have run an entirely new battery of tests that
indicate that the old woodies are safer for the kitchen than plastic
due to the grooves left by a sharp knife. With a plastic board, the
soft plastic simply rolls over on either side of the groove left when
cutting. Examination of my own polyprop boards revealed this scratchy
feeling surface. On a wood board, cutting raises the cut grain, and
the raised/severed fibers are knocked, rubbed, flecked, or washed off,
leaving the clean groove behind with nothing to hold the bacteria.

I willingly admit that in practical application the difference in the
two may not amount to a fart in a tornado, but no one likes facts like
this group.

I personally like the wooden cutting boards as their bulk an weight
make them better suited to my cutting style, and while it may be my
imagination, it seems my knives stay sharper longer on the wood
boards.

Robert

I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.

Conclusion was that while all cutting boards can have bacteria after
use, the manmade materials would continue to allow bacteria growth,
while something about wood inhibits the growth and time would take
care of any residual critters.

Frank

[Art Greenberg]

On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 06:59:10 -0500, Frank Boettcher wrote:
I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.

Here are two, with references to other articles:

http://foodsafety.ifas.ufl.edu/HTML/il114.htm
http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/health/...ty/az1076.html

--
Art Greenberg
artg at eclipse dot net

[Mike Marlow]

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...

I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.

Conclusion was that while all cutting boards can have bacteria after
use, the manmade materials would continue to allow bacteria growth,
while something about wood inhibits the growth and time would take
care of any residual critters.


Like Robert, I prefer wood but that's just "because". I am surprised at the
results you quote above. I would have thought exactly the opposite to be
true. In fact, I might even say "are you sure?..."

--

-Mike-

[Lee Michaels]

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...

I remember reading some of those studies years ago. University of
Wisconsin comes to mind, but memory may have faded.

Conclusion was that while all cutting boards can have bacteria after
use, the manmade materials would continue to allow bacteria growth,
while something about wood inhibits the growth and time would take
care of any residual critters.


Like Robert, I prefer wood but that's just "because". I am surprised at
the results you quote above. I would have thought exactly the opposite to
be true. In fact, I might even say "are you sure?..."


Yep, it is true.

There was a big deal about it when the research first came about. This is
exactly the type of thing that the local television stations run with. So we
were abused with about a hundred stories on this topic awhile back.