Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

I wired the garage with an 80 amp 220v sub-panel last year, and
installed 6-20 outlets in several locations for other equipment.
There is a 20 amp 220v circuit allocated for the saw.

http://www.thevideodoc.com\Images\6-20R.jpg

Thanks,


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote in message
...

Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

I wired the garage with an 80 amp 220v sub-panel last year, and
installed 6-20 outlets in several locations for other equipment.
There is a 20 amp 220v circuit allocated for the saw.

http://www.thevideodoc.com\Images\6-20R.jpg

Thanks,


Greg G.

Mine came wired with a plug that fits into the outlet you show. I bought
that very same receptacle at Home Depot and wired it to my sub panel on it's
own dedicated circuit (it sounds like you did that as well). The plug on
the saw has one round ground pin and two flat horizontal pins. Home Depot
also sells heavy duty 220 V extension cords (9' max) in case you need one...

-m

Mike Pio said:

"Greg G." wrote in message
.. .

Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

Mine came wired with a plug that fits into the outlet you show. I bought
that very same receptacle at Home Depot and wired it to my sub panel on it's
own dedicated circuit (it sounds like you did that as well). The plug on
the saw has one round ground pin and two flat horizontal pins. Home Depot
also sells heavy duty 220 V extension cords (9' max) in case you need one...

Thanks, Mike. I was hoping that was the case.
I have seen a vast array of twist-lock and mobile home connectors
cobbled onto machinery over the years, so wasn't sure.
But no, don't need no steenkin extension cords... ;-)

And before anyone else pitches in, this would be the 3HP version.
The 5 HP requires a 30A receptacle and heavier (10g) wiring.

Thanks,


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote in message

Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

I wired the garage with an 80 amp 220v sub-panel last year, and
installed 6-20 outlets in several locations for other equipment.
There is a 20 amp 220v circuit allocated for the saw.


IIRC, the plug that comes standard on the 3HP Delta Unisaws is a NEMA 6-15P.

Rated for 15amps, it will fit into a15 amp, 6-15R receptacle, as well as a
20 amp, 6-20R receptacle, should you decide to make a jumper or extension
cord.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote in message

Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

I wired the garage with an 80 amp 220v sub-panel last year, and
installed 6-20 outlets in several locations for other equipment.
There is a 20 amp 220v circuit allocated for the saw.

IIRC, the plug that comes standard on the 3HP Delta Unisaws is a NEMA 6-15P.

Rated for 15amps, it will fit into a15 amp, 6-15R receptacle, as well as a
20 amp, 6-20R receptacle, should you decide to make a jumper or extension
cord.

Thanks KC!

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.
(Depending on which version of the "specs" you go by.)
They recommend a 20 amp breaker and 12g wire.
Either way, my outlets will accept either plug.

SWMBO is hinting that it might be possible to acquire a demo Unisaw
w/50" Bies fence this winter. Not quite sure how I would fit it into
a 2 car shop and still work there, but the resale value of a used
Unisaw is way above other brands, and there are a million accessories
available. I'm tired of cheap tools, particularly my tablesaw, and
I've been drooling over this one for years. Cry once...eh?
The 50" Beis fence sure would be nice, but man does it eat up real
estate. Since you have one, are the rails one piece, or can they be
shortened without a hacksaw?

Thanks,


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote in message

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20 amps.

(Depending on which version of the "specs" you go by.)
They recommend a 20 amp breaker and 12g wire.
Either way, my outlets will accept either plug.

Unless things have changed drastically, based on what you say above, you
should be able to immediately 'plug and play' with a 3 HP Unisaw.

The 50" Beis fence sure would be nice, but man does it eat up real
estate. Since you have one, are the rails one piece, or can they be
shortened without a hacksaw?

I have the 52" Uni Fence (with an additional Uni-T-fence aftermarket face,
which I wouldn't trade for anything, that makes it _much_ more versatile
than a Beis). One of the best $80 I've ever spent and would do it again in a
heartbeat.

The Unifence only has one rail (front, with no back rail).

IMO, order the full monte then just cut off what you don't need. But you may
be surprised at what you can stuff in a two car 'shop'. My shop is only 18 x
18 and the table saw and my main work bench are dead center, both acting
like a combination large table/table saw with outfeed table.

I've always been glad I resisted the small shop mentality and decision to
not cut back. You can always trim the rail, fence and outfeed table to suit
your situation after the fact.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

Yes, that is the critter you need for the 3hp/240v Unisaw. Your pic shows a 15/20amp 240v recept. It will work. A 20amp recept has two horiz blades. That's the plug on the Unisaw, two horizon blades and a round neutral/gnd below. The Unisaw plug looks like a smily face when viewed straight on.


Fwiw, I made my own 30ft ext cord, male (6-20P) and female (6-20R) cord adapters ($6 and $8) from Home Depot, heavy AWG 12 cord from MSC for $.70/ft. For longer cords, AWG 10 is (I believe) $.77/ft. This is the heavy-duty yellow cord used for those industrial take up reels.

Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote in message

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20 amps.

Hmmm... According to the NEMA picture chart I have, the 6 generally
denotes 220volts, and the 15 denotes the amperage. A quick spec
search on Leviton's site claims a 15 amp rating for a 6-15R. Code
prohibits installing a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit.
Doesn't matter to me either way - I doubt that, other than at
start-up, it will ever draw that much current in this shop. I don't
cut 2 1/2" thick hard maple - can't afford it! The gas and oil
companies are getting all of my wood money...

(Depending on which version of the "specs" you go by.)
They recommend a 20 amp breaker and 12g wire.
Either way, my outlets will accept either plug.

Unless things have changed drastically, based on what you say above, you
should be able to immediately 'plug and play' with a 3 HP Unisaw.

Yup, and even if I couldn't, it's a five minute job to swap out a
receptacle.

The 50" Beis fence sure would be nice, but man does it eat up real
estate. Since you have one, are the rails one piece, or can they be
shortened without a hacksaw?

I have the 52" Uni Fence (with an additional Uni-T-fence aftermarket face,
which I wouldn't trade for anything, that makes it _much_ more versatile
than a Beis). One of the best $80 I've ever spent and would do it again in a
heartbeat.

The Unifence only has one rail (front, with no back rail).

I have contemplated both fences, the Beis being the old reliable, the
Uni being it's fancy knock-off with sliding/flippable rails. Never
heard anything negative about either. I'm big on jigs and fence
mountable "stuff", so the Uni would probably be more appropriate for
me. It just happens that the "discounted" saws come with the Beis.
I wish it came with thru-holes for mounting accessories, however.
(Yea, I have a drill...) I have no personal experience with either,
so hindsight is limited.

I have often wondered, however, how you use the Uni Fence on the left
side of the blade, with that "stop" resting on the table surface...

IMO, order the full monte then just cut off what you don't need. But you may
be surprised at what you can stuff in a two car 'shop'. My shop is only 18 x
18 and the table saw and my main work bench are dead center, both acting
like a combination large table/table saw with outfeed table.

Similar setup here - about 19"x19". But it's still pretty crowded.
I built a 2 1/2" thick, 30" x 72" workbench the same height as my
current table saw, but now see that the Unisaw is ~1.5" shorter. So
now I have to whack off the table trestle to match. And, of course,
it can't be from the bottom, 'cause I store 2 Walker hydraulic jacks
underneath the bottom shelf. I built a large, fold-down torsion box
outfeed table that should adapt easily, however. The main bench is a
left side table saw extension, as I got tired of having to clean off
the bench to use the saw. And considering that the shop gets used for
woodworking, woodturning, the occasional engine/auto transmission
overhaul, general staging for home repair materials, electronic
tinkering, projection TV repair, etc., it can get pretty crowded...

I still cut down 4x8 sheets with gulp a circular saw before trimming
on the table saw. I was hoping to eliminate that aggravation - even
if I have to feed sheets from an opened garage door (in the dead of
winter - $10.00 worth of heat lost per opening...).

But I REALLY resist the temptation to saw off anything that can't be
put back on seamlessly. We plan to move in the next few years - and
the next place WILL be large enough to hold all the Big Tools. I
don't care about 3 bathrooms, 3 floors of wasted space, 4 bedrooms or
huge "great rooms" - we never use any of them. All I want is an
office, media room, and a 32x32+ shop. All SWMBO wants is an office,
kitchen and a bedroom. And we both want 10+ acres of land, away from
this stinking city, with no neighbors - other than wildlife.

I've always been glad I resisted the small shop mentality and decision to
not cut back. You can always trim the rail, fence and outfeed table to suit
your situation after the fact.

It's the after the after the fact that concerns me... ;-)
And... I don't believe I have what it takes to violate a nice 50"
fence with a hacksaw. I hate the 28" fence I have now, I'm always
needing a couple more inches... (and what man doesn't...)


Greg G.

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 19:31:43 -0400, Greg wrote:

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20 amps.

Hmmm... According to the NEMA picture chart I have, the 6 generally
denotes 220volts, and the 15 denotes the amperage. A quick spec
search on Leviton's site claims a 15 amp rating for a 6-15R. Code
prohibits installing a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit.

I'm not sure whether the 6-15 is "rated" at 20 amps or not. I know
they are keyed that way. However, on the 120V side, same situation, I
have $1000 that says if you go into your kitchen, where, by code,
there are two 20 amp circuits, you will find nothing but "15 amp
receptacles" (the two vertical bars), even though the plug pattern for
a "20 amp receptacle" is one vertical and one horizontal. The NEMA 20
amp receptacles have a dual slot on one side to accomodate both 15 and
20 amp plugs.

The keying is the key, not the current rating. And in any event, why
would it be a problem putting a "15 amp receptacle" on a 20 amp
circuit. NEC would be much more concerned with putting a 20 amp
receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. You don't want to be plugging in
equipment to a 15 amp circuit that is going to draw more than 15 amps.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 09:05:45 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:


"Greg G." wrote in message

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20 amps.

(Depending on which version of the "specs" you go by.)
They recommend a 20 amp breaker and 12g wire.
Either way, my outlets will accept either plug.

Unless things have changed drastically, based on what you say above, you
should be able to immediately 'plug and play' with a 3 HP Unisaw.

The 50" Beis fence sure would be nice, but man does it eat up real
estate. Since you have one, are the rails one piece, or can they be
shortened without a hacksaw?

I have the 52" Uni Fence (with an additional Uni-T-fence aftermarket face,
which I wouldn't trade for anything, that makes it _much_ more versatile
than a Beis). One of the best $80 I've ever spent and would do it again in a
heartbeat.

The Unifence only has one rail (front, with no back rail).

IMO, order the full monte then just cut off what you don't need. But you may
be surprised at what you can stuff in a two car 'shop'. My shop is only 18 x
18 and the table saw and my main work bench are dead center, both acting
like a combination large table/table saw with outfeed table.

I've always been glad I resisted the small shop mentality and decision to
not cut back. You can always trim the rail, fence and outfeed table to suit
your situation after the fact.


All the electrical stuff accurate. 3 HP comes with a NEMA 6-15 plug
and will work appropriately with a 20 AMP receptacle.

You can always get a 30" in either a Bies or a Unifence if you are
space constrained and don't want to fool with cutting off a rail.
Unifence has more neat features; Bies is a little tougher. Both great.

Frank

LRod said:

I'm not sure whether the 6-15 is "rated" at 20 amps or not. I know
they are keyed that way. However, on the 120V side, same situation, I
have $1000 that says if you go into your kitchen, where, by code,
there are two 20 amp circuits, you will find nothing but "15 amp
receptacles" (the two vertical bars), even though the plug pattern for
a "20 amp receptacle" is one vertical and one horizontal. The NEMA 20
amp receptacles have a dual slot on one side to accomodate both 15 and
20 amp plugs.

Well, we have 20 amp receptacles in our kitchen as required by local
code. (The obvious giveaway being the T-shaped hot.) As do the 20
amp receptacles in the garage - in addition to the required GFCI
breakers. But I do not deny that most likely, most homes have 15 amp
sockets, 'cause that's what the contractor bought a bulk box of.
Codes vary as do inspectors. ($$$) You may mail my $1000 to:

But as far as the difference between the current capacity of the two,
it *may* make no difference - probably depends of the vendor's
individual design. But the contact area of the socket, it's connector
wiping pattern, and general bulk of the internal conductors makes a
difference. I haven't poured through my copy of the NEC to see what
they "recommend", however. The local inspector told me a 20 amp
circuits required 20 amp rated receptacles - and that's all that
matters to me, because he is the ultimate authority. :-o

The keying is the key, not the current rating. And in any event, why
would it be a problem putting a "15 amp receptacle" on a 20 amp
circuit. NEC would be much more concerned with putting a 20 amp
receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. You don't want to be plugging in
equipment to a 15 amp circuit that is going to draw more than 15 amps.

Because the internal conductor size and blade contact patch inside the
socket determines the ultimate current carrying capacity of the
receptacle. In this bean-counting world, this makes sense to me.
I have noticed that the bonding straps between the two outlets on a
120v 20amp duplex receptacle are heavier than on a 15 amp duplex
receptacle. The socket has to carry as much current as the wiring,
albeit for a much shorter distance. And any non-secure connection
such as a plug and socket is an inherently more resistive connection
than proper in-wall wiring. That is why wall sockets and plugs get
hot before the wiring. Smaller, more resistive connections.

Hey, don't shoot me, I'm only the messenger. ;-)


Greg G.

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 21:33:47 -0400, Greg wrote:

LRod said:

I'm not sure whether the 6-15 is "rated" at 20 amps or not. I know
they are keyed that way. However, on the 120V side, same situation, I
have $1000 that says if you go into your kitchen, where, by code,
there are two 20 amp circuits, you will find nothing but "15 amp
receptacles" (the two vertical bars), even though the plug pattern for
a "20 amp receptacle" is one vertical and one horizontal. The NEMA 20
amp receptacles have a dual slot on one side to accomodate both 15 and
20 amp plugs.

Well, we have 20 amp receptacles in our kitchen as required by local
code. (The obvious giveaway being the T-shaped hot.) As do the 20
amp receptacles in the garage - in addition to the required GFCI
breakers. But I do not deny that most likely, most homes have 15 amp
sockets, 'cause that's what the contractor bought a bulk box of.
Codes vary as do inspectors. ($$$) You may mail my $1000 to:

Heh, heh.

Keep watching that mail box...

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

Frank Boettcher said:

All the electrical stuff accurate. 3 HP comes with a NEMA 6-15 plug
and will work appropriately with a 20 AMP receptacle.

You can always get a 30" in either a Bies or a Unifence if you are
space constrained and don't want to fool with cutting off a rail.
Unifence has more neat features; Bies is a little tougher. Both great.

Frank

Thanks, Frank. The outlets apparently aren't a problem - I tried to
think ahead when I installed the sub-panel. But later, I viewed
another guy's saw that had a twist-lock 30 amp plug wired on - got me
worried. His receptacle wouldn't fit in my metal boxes. Thanks for
the confirmation. (I'm using conduit with THHN wiring and combination
120/240v outlet boxes.)

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/outlets.jpg

You think that's odd, check out these Leviton outlets:
Dual 120/240v 20A sockets in one receptacle!
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/dualoutlets.jpg


The problem with a different fence is that the $1249 Unisaw special I
am looking at comes only with a 50" Bies, extension table and legs.
If I want a shorter rail or a Uni Fence, it'll cost me $1699. Big
difference in $$$...


Greg G.

LRod said:

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 21:33:47 -0400, Greg wrote:

LRod said:

I'm not sure whether the 6-15 is "rated" at 20 amps or not. I know
they are keyed that way. However, on the 120V side, same situation, I
have $1000 that says if you go into your kitchen, where, by code,
there are two 20 amp circuits, you will find nothing but "15 amp
receptacles" (the two vertical bars), even though the plug pattern for
a "20 amp receptacle" is one vertical and one horizontal. The NEMA 20
amp receptacles have a dual slot on one side to accomodate both 15 and
20 amp plugs.

Proofreading mistake - the T slot is on the neutral, not the hot.

Well, we have 20 amp receptacles in our kitchen as required by local
code. (The obvious giveaway being the T-shaped hot.) As do the 20
amp receptacles in the garage - in addition to the required GFCI
breakers. But I do not deny that most likely, most homes have 15 amp
sockets, 'cause that's what the contractor bought a bulk box of.
Codes vary as do inspectors. ($$$) You may mail my $1000 to:

Heh, heh.

Keep watching that mail box...

Shoulda known - you slut. Anyone who lives near Jacksonville... ;-)
(Lived there for 8 years - but not a townie.)


Greg G.

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 22:28:16 -0400, Greg wrote:

Keep watching that mail box...

Shoulda known - you slut. Anyone who lives near Jacksonville... ;-)
(Lived there for 8 years - but not a townie.)

Actually lived there myself, although it was 35 years ago--'68-'73.
Never thought I'd come back to North Florida, but OB is really nice.

When were you there? Squid?

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

LRod said:

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 22:28:16 -0400, Greg wrote:

Keep watching that mail box...

Shoulda known - you slut. Anyone who lives near Jacksonville... ;-)
(Lived there for 8 years - but not a townie.)

Actually lived there myself, although it was 35 years ago--'68-'73.
Never thought I'd come back to North Florida, but OB is really nice.

When were you there? Squid?

Ha! No - Mayport Road area soon became "off limits" due to the
profusion of lonely Navy Wives. Everyone I worked with or met had
some history with the USN - frankly got kinda tired of it. And the
'term of affliction' definitely wasn't appreciated by enlisted folks.

Lived in Ponte Vedra and Jax Beach and worked off Beach Blvd near 9A
as an electronics tech. Spent 8 months working in Tampa and 2 in
Whorlando as well. Decided I didn't want to live near the beach as
much as I thought I did. Too many developers showed up and turned it
into the same sort of place I left. (Atlanta) Overall, I was in
Florida between '92 and '01. The only parts of Florida that haven't
become "McMansion" or "McTourist" Land are the Everglades, and NW
Florida, and they've got their eye on that as well. I remember when
Ocala was a 1 light town, and Cape Coral was a sand dune. They've
even 'auctioned' off parts of the Ding Darling Wildlife refuge to
retiring senators and other muckity mucks. Now we're thinking about
Mountains, far from the herds, and high enough to protect ourselves
from the roving bands of food and fuel pirates. :-o


Greg G.

On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 00:23:36 -0400, Greg wrote:

[top posted for your convenience]

I was that rarity in Jacksonville, government employee not involved in
any way with the Navy...not that there's anything wrong with that.

OB is still nice and quiet, although Daytona is going condo and up at
an alarming rate. You'll probably have to go west of the Mississippi
if you want to find mountains to escape it all. We had land in Western
NC in the '90s--almost moved there when I retired, now I'm glad we
didn't. Every time we go back there we're blown away by all the
"people from Atlanta" who've moved in.

A guy I woeked with in Jax still lives there. He says the
transformation from the '70s to now was remarkable (mostly good), so
you were there at a lot better time than I was.

Of course my Florida history goes back a lot farther than that--I was
here before the Revolution. Ocala one light? Ha, I remember when 8th
Street in Miami was Tamiami Trail, not Calle Ocho. Sadly, I also
remember "white only" signs on water fountains and "colored" on
bathrooms.

Actually lived there myself, although it was 35 years ago--'68-'73.
Never thought I'd come back to North Florida, but OB is really nice.

When were you there? Squid?

Ha! No - Mayport Road area soon became "off limits" due to the
profusion of lonely Navy Wives. Everyone I worked with or met had
some history with the USN - frankly got kinda tired of it. And the
'term of affliction' definitely wasn't appreciated by enlisted folks.

Lived in Ponte Vedra and Jax Beach and worked off Beach Blvd near 9A
as an electronics tech. Spent 8 months working in Tampa and 2 in
Whorlando as well. Decided I didn't want to live near the beach as
much as I thought I did. Too many developers showed up and turned it
into the same sort of place I left. (Atlanta) Overall, I was in
Florida between '92 and '01. The only parts of Florida that haven't
become "McMansion" or "McTourist" Land are the Everglades, and NW
Florida, and they've got their eye on that as well. I remember when
Ocala was a 1 light town, and Cape Coral was a sand dune. They've
even 'auctioned' off parts of the Ding Darling Wildlife refuge to
retiring senators and other muckity mucks. Now we're thinking about
Mountains, far from the herds, and high enough to protect ourselves
from the roving bands of food and fuel pirates. :-o


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 22:09:37 -0400, Greg wrote:

Frank Boettcher said:

All the electrical stuff accurate. 3 HP comes with a NEMA 6-15 plug
and will work appropriately with a 20 AMP receptacle.

You can always get a 30" in either a Bies or a Unifence if you are
space constrained and don't want to fool with cutting off a rail.
Unifence has more neat features; Bies is a little tougher. Both great.

Frank

Thanks, Frank. The outlets apparently aren't a problem - I tried to
think ahead when I installed the sub-panel. But later, I viewed
another guy's saw that had a twist-lock 30 amp plug wired on - got me
worried. His receptacle wouldn't fit in my metal boxes. Thanks for
the confirmation. (I'm using conduit with THHN wiring and combination
120/240v outlet boxes.)

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/outlets.jpg

You think that's odd, check out these Leviton outlets:
Dual 120/240v 20A sockets in one receptacle!
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/dualoutlets.jpg


The problem with a different fence is that the $1249 Unisaw special I
am looking at comes only with a 50" Bies, extension table and legs.
If I want a shorter rail or a Uni Fence, it'll cost me $1699. Big
difference in $$$...


Greg G.


Yeah, that often happens with these specially priced packages. So I
would go back to Swingman's original recommendation. Get it in see if
it will fit and if worse comes to worse pull the guide rail and have
it cut to fit. You can probably find a metal fab shop with a band
saw that can neatly cut it for a few bucks. You can cut down and
reskirt the table yourself.

Good Luck

Frank

"Greg G." wrote in message

I have contemplated both fences, the Beis being the old reliable, the
Uni being it's fancy knock-off with sliding/flippable rails. Never
heard anything negative about either. I'm big on jigs and fence
mountable "stuff", so the Uni would probably be more appropriate for
me.

Acutally, it is just the opposite. The Beis is much easier to "jig up" than
the OEM UniFence. Adding the aftermarket "Uni-T-Fence" to the UnFence
assembly is what gives you more flexibility, IMO, than a Beis, but it is
definitely an extra cost you would want to factor in.

http://www.ttrackusa.com/

The Beis that comes with the UniSaw is as much fence as anyone could want,
so if your best deal is with the Beis, go for it and you will be ahead of
the game moneywise.

I have often wondered, however, how you use the Uni Fence on the left
side of the blade, with that "stop" resting on the table surface...

?? No such thing on mine?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

Swingman said:

Acutally, it is just the opposite. The Beis is much easier to "jig up" than
the OEM UniFence. Adding the aftermarket "Uni-T-Fence" to the UnFence
assembly is what gives you more flexibility, IMO, than a Beis, but it is
definitely an extra cost you would want to factor in.

http://www.ttrackusa.com/

OK - I thought the Uni had tracks and grooves for that purpose.
I see it's not very friendly to jigs that ride over the fence rail.

The Beis that comes with the UniSaw is as much fence as anyone could want,
so if your best deal is with the Beis, go for it and you will be ahead of
the game moneywise.

I have always been impressed by it's sturdiness and heft.
But not having used the Uni, it's hard to make a personal comparison.

I have often wondered, however, how you use the Uni Fence on the left
side of the blade, with that "stop" resting on the table surface...

?? No such thing on mine?

This thing:
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/fencethingy.jpg

I see now, however, that it doesn't stick out past the fence body, but
that you have to remove the fence rail and swap it and the fasteners
to opposite sides. A PITA, but not something you do often, I assume.



Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote in message

This thing:
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/fencethingy.jpg

I see now, however, that it doesn't stick out past the fence body, but
that you have to remove the fence rail and swap it and the fasteners
to opposite sides. A PITA, but not something you do often, I assume.

Ahh ... no, that never gets in the way of anything as it is under, and does
not extend past, either side of the slide assembly.

Very easy, and takes about 30 seconds, to move the Uni-Fence to the opposite
side, less if you do it often. But IME, there is rarely a need to do so.

So rare, AAMOF, that I can't remember the last time I _needed_ to do it.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

"LRod" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 19:31:43 -0400, Greg wrote:

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20
amps.

Hmmm... According to the NEMA picture chart I have, the 6 generally
denotes 220volts, and the 15 denotes the amperage. A quick spec
search on Leviton's site claims a 15 amp rating for a 6-15R. Code
prohibits installing a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit.

I'm not sure whether the 6-15 is "rated" at 20 amps or not. I know
they are keyed that way. However, on the 120V side, same situation, I
have $1000 that says if you go into your kitchen, where, by code,
there are two 20 amp circuits, you will find nothing but "15 amp
receptacles" (the two vertical bars), even though the plug pattern for
a "20 amp receptacle" is one vertical and one horizontal. The NEMA 20
amp receptacles have a dual slot on one side to accomodate both 15 and
20 amp plugs.

Would you like my address to send me the $$$ ALL my outlets in my kitchen
are the 20amp models and take BOTH 15 and 20 amp plugs
BTW the code says if it's the only yoke on a 20 circuit then it must be a 20
amp but if it's a DUPLEX outlet ( 2 yokes ) then they can be 15 amp each on
a 20 amp circuit

William.....



The keying is the key, not the current rating. And in any event, why
would it be a problem putting a "15 amp receptacle" on a 20 amp
circuit. NEC would be much more concerned with putting a 20 amp
receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. You don't want to be plugging in
equipment to a 15 amp circuit that is going to draw more than 15 amps.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

Greg writes:

breakers. But I do not deny that most likely, most homes have 15 amp
sockets, 'cause that's what the contractor bought a bulk box of.
Codes vary as do inspectors. ($$$) You may mail my $1000 to:

Where do you find something that gets used in a normal residence with a 20
amp plug?

15 amp receptacles get used because nothing in 99% of all houses uses 20
amps. The wiring is 20 amp because it services multiple outlets.

socket determines the ultimate current carrying capacity of the
receptacle. In this bean-counting world, this makes sense to me.
I have noticed that the bonding straps between the two outlets on a
120v 20amp duplex receptacle are heavier than on a 15 amp duplex
receptacle. The socket has to carry as much current as the wiring,

Is using the bonding straps on an outlet to continue the circuit even code
legal? A good electrician will run a pigtail to the outlet and not use
the bonding strap. I wired my own house and used pigtails.

Brian Elfert

I found it cheaper to buy a 110v 12 ga extention cord, and cut off the
ends and put on the 220v adapters than to pay for the 12ga cord by the
foot; saves about $4 or so. Mutt

Brian Elfert said:

Where do you find something that gets used in a normal residence with a 20
amp plug?

Residence? Nothing that I'm aware of - they use a NEMA 5-15P.
My observation was that the internals and bonding straps are heavier.

Why do they put a 15 amp connector on a saw that draws 18 amps?
Why is the sky blue?

15 amp receptacles get used because nothing in 99% of all houses uses 20
amps. The wiring is 20 amp because it services multiple outlets.

Sure, I understand. But local Authority Has Jurisdiction.
So I do what they say.

Is using the bonding straps on an outlet to continue the circuit even code
legal? A good electrician will run a pigtail to the outlet and not use
the bonding strap. I wired my own house and used pigtails.

That's nice, dear.
It's legal here.
The bonding strap supplies current to the other outlet as well - just
the thing for those 20 amp appliances. :-o

As I said, AHJ. :-\


Greg G.

Pig said:

I found it cheaper to buy a 110v 12 ga extention cord, and cut off the
ends and put on the 220v adapters than to pay for the 12ga cord by the
foot; saves about $4 or so. Mutt

Uhh... OK. ;-)


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote in message

Why do they put a 15 amp connector on a saw that draws 18 amps?
Why is the sky blue?

Because codes specify the "receptacle" requirements, not the male plug.

... think about it.

Don't worry ... the NEMA 6-15P "male" plug will handle the 20 amp circuit,
and the UniSaw startup amperage, with no problem whatsoever.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote in message

Why do they put a 15 amp connector on a saw that draws 18 amps?
Why is the sky blue?

Because codes specify the "receptacle" requirements, not the male plug.

I know that! I was being sarcastic... ;-)


Greg G.

I have a problem!!! Similar to the topic at hand, I just bought and
installed a new Delta X5 unisaw, installed a 100amp subpanel in the
shop, with a dedicated two-pole 20amp breaker through 12ga wire into
the proper receptacle. When I push "ON" it wont start...
no sound or anything happening. As I hold my voltage tester to the
saws power cord, when I push "ON" it sends power through
the cord and into the motor housing. But still the saw doesnt start.
Any ideas!? I'm in the middle of a job with a deadline, and I cant
wait till monday for Delta tech support to come to work.

matthewrita said:

I have a problem!!! Similar to the topic at hand, I just bought and
installed a new Delta X5 unisaw, installed a 100amp subpanel in the
shop, with a dedicated two-pole 20amp breaker through 12ga wire into
the proper receptacle. When I push "ON" it wont start...
no sound or anything happening. As I hold my voltage tester to the
saws power cord, when I push "ON" it sends power through
the cord and into the motor housing. But still the saw doesnt start.
Any ideas!? I'm in the middle of a job with a deadline, and I cant
wait till monday for Delta tech support to come to work.

Big Red Reset button on the motor comes to mind first off, then a
defective/dirty commutator or start cap.
Does it hum? Will it run if you spin the motor by hand?(!)