Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

I wired the garage with an 80 amp 220v sub-panel last year, and
installed 6-20 outlets in several locations for other equipment.
There is a 20 amp 220v circuit allocated for the saw.

http://www.thevideodoc.com\Images\6-20R.jpg

Thanks,


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote in message
...

Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

I wired the garage with an 80 amp 220v sub-panel last year, and
installed 6-20 outlets in several locations for other equipment.
There is a 20 amp 220v circuit allocated for the saw.

http://www.thevideodoc.com\Images\6-20R.jpg

Thanks,


Greg G.

Mine came wired with a plug that fits into the outlet you show. I bought
that very same receptacle at Home Depot and wired it to my sub panel on it's
own dedicated circuit (it sounds like you did that as well). The plug on
the saw has one round ground pin and two flat horizontal pins. Home Depot
also sells heavy duty 220 V extension cords (9' max) in case you need one...

-m

Mike Pio said:

"Greg G." wrote in message
.. .

Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

Mine came wired with a plug that fits into the outlet you show. I bought
that very same receptacle at Home Depot and wired it to my sub panel on it's
own dedicated circuit (it sounds like you did that as well). The plug on
the saw has one round ground pin and two flat horizontal pins. Home Depot
also sells heavy duty 220 V extension cords (9' max) in case you need one...

Thanks, Mike. I was hoping that was the case.
I have seen a vast array of twist-lock and mobile home connectors
cobbled onto machinery over the years, so wasn't sure.
But no, don't need no steenkin extension cords... ;-)

And before anyone else pitches in, this would be the 3HP version.
The 5 HP requires a 30A receptacle and heavier (10g) wiring.

Thanks,


Greg G.

Yes, that is the critter you need for the 3hp/240v Unisaw. Your pic shows a 15/20amp 240v recept. It will work. A 20amp recept has two horiz blades. That's the plug on the Unisaw, two horizon blades and a round neutral/gnd below. The Unisaw plug looks like a smily face when viewed straight on.


Fwiw, I made my own 30ft ext cord, male (6-20P) and female (6-20R) cord adapters ($6 and $8) from Home Depot, heavy AWG 12 cord from MSC for $.70/ft. For longer cords, AWG 10 is (I believe) $.77/ft. This is the heavy-duty yellow cord used for those industrial take up reels.

I found it cheaper to buy a 110v 12 ga extention cord, and cut off the
ends and put on the 220v adapters than to pay for the 12ga cord by the
foot; saves about $4 or so. Mutt

Pig said:

I found it cheaper to buy a 110v 12 ga extention cord, and cut off the
ends and put on the 220v adapters than to pay for the 12ga cord by the
foot; saves about $4 or so. Mutt

Uhh... OK. ;-)


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote in message

Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

I wired the garage with an 80 amp 220v sub-panel last year, and
installed 6-20 outlets in several locations for other equipment.
There is a 20 amp 220v circuit allocated for the saw.


IIRC, the plug that comes standard on the 3HP Delta Unisaws is a NEMA 6-15P.

Rated for 15amps, it will fit into a15 amp, 6-15R receptacle, as well as a
20 amp, 6-20R receptacle, should you decide to make a jumper or extension
cord.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote in message

Can anyone who owns a Delta Unisaw confirm whether it comes
equipped with a 6-20R electrical plug attached? The dealer doesn't
seem to know the nomenclature, and I don't feel like driving there.

I wired the garage with an 80 amp 220v sub-panel last year, and
installed 6-20 outlets in several locations for other equipment.
There is a 20 amp 220v circuit allocated for the saw.

IIRC, the plug that comes standard on the 3HP Delta Unisaws is a NEMA 6-15P.

Rated for 15amps, it will fit into a15 amp, 6-15R receptacle, as well as a
20 amp, 6-20R receptacle, should you decide to make a jumper or extension
cord.

Thanks KC!

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.
(Depending on which version of the "specs" you go by.)
They recommend a 20 amp breaker and 12g wire.
Either way, my outlets will accept either plug.

SWMBO is hinting that it might be possible to acquire a demo Unisaw
w/50" Bies fence this winter. Not quite sure how I would fit it into
a 2 car shop and still work there, but the resale value of a used
Unisaw is way above other brands, and there are a million accessories
available. I'm tired of cheap tools, particularly my tablesaw, and
I've been drooling over this one for years. Cry once...eh?
The 50" Beis fence sure would be nice, but man does it eat up real
estate. Since you have one, are the rails one piece, or can they be
shortened without a hacksaw?

Thanks,


Greg G.

"Greg G." wrote in message

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20 amps.

(Depending on which version of the "specs" you go by.)
They recommend a 20 amp breaker and 12g wire.
Either way, my outlets will accept either plug.

Unless things have changed drastically, based on what you say above, you
should be able to immediately 'plug and play' with a 3 HP Unisaw.

The 50" Beis fence sure would be nice, but man does it eat up real
estate. Since you have one, are the rails one piece, or can they be
shortened without a hacksaw?

I have the 52" Uni Fence (with an additional Uni-T-fence aftermarket face,
which I wouldn't trade for anything, that makes it _much_ more versatile
than a Beis). One of the best $80 I've ever spent and would do it again in a
heartbeat.

The Unifence only has one rail (front, with no back rail).

IMO, order the full monte then just cut off what you don't need. But you may
be surprised at what you can stuff in a two car 'shop'. My shop is only 18 x
18 and the table saw and my main work bench are dead center, both acting
like a combination large table/table saw with outfeed table.

I've always been glad I resisted the small shop mentality and decision to
not cut back. You can always trim the rail, fence and outfeed table to suit
your situation after the fact.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote in message

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20 amps.

Hmmm... According to the NEMA picture chart I have, the 6 generally
denotes 220volts, and the 15 denotes the amperage. A quick spec
search on Leviton's site claims a 15 amp rating for a 6-15R. Code
prohibits installing a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit.
Doesn't matter to me either way - I doubt that, other than at
start-up, it will ever draw that much current in this shop. I don't
cut 2 1/2" thick hard maple - can't afford it! The gas and oil
companies are getting all of my wood money...

(Depending on which version of the "specs" you go by.)
They recommend a 20 amp breaker and 12g wire.
Either way, my outlets will accept either plug.

Unless things have changed drastically, based on what you say above, you
should be able to immediately 'plug and play' with a 3 HP Unisaw.

Yup, and even if I couldn't, it's a five minute job to swap out a
receptacle.

The 50" Beis fence sure would be nice, but man does it eat up real
estate. Since you have one, are the rails one piece, or can they be
shortened without a hacksaw?

I have the 52" Uni Fence (with an additional Uni-T-fence aftermarket face,
which I wouldn't trade for anything, that makes it _much_ more versatile
than a Beis). One of the best $80 I've ever spent and would do it again in a
heartbeat.

The Unifence only has one rail (front, with no back rail).

I have contemplated both fences, the Beis being the old reliable, the
Uni being it's fancy knock-off with sliding/flippable rails. Never
heard anything negative about either. I'm big on jigs and fence
mountable "stuff", so the Uni would probably be more appropriate for
me. It just happens that the "discounted" saws come with the Beis.
I wish it came with thru-holes for mounting accessories, however.
(Yea, I have a drill...) I have no personal experience with either,
so hindsight is limited.

I have often wondered, however, how you use the Uni Fence on the left
side of the blade, with that "stop" resting on the table surface...

IMO, order the full monte then just cut off what you don't need. But you may
be surprised at what you can stuff in a two car 'shop'. My shop is only 18 x
18 and the table saw and my main work bench are dead center, both acting
like a combination large table/table saw with outfeed table.

Similar setup here - about 19"x19". But it's still pretty crowded.
I built a 2 1/2" thick, 30" x 72" workbench the same height as my
current table saw, but now see that the Unisaw is ~1.5" shorter. So
now I have to whack off the table trestle to match. And, of course,
it can't be from the bottom, 'cause I store 2 Walker hydraulic jacks
underneath the bottom shelf. I built a large, fold-down torsion box
outfeed table that should adapt easily, however. The main bench is a
left side table saw extension, as I got tired of having to clean off
the bench to use the saw. And considering that the shop gets used for
woodworking, woodturning, the occasional engine/auto transmission
overhaul, general staging for home repair materials, electronic
tinkering, projection TV repair, etc., it can get pretty crowded...

I still cut down 4x8 sheets with gulp a circular saw before trimming
on the table saw. I was hoping to eliminate that aggravation - even
if I have to feed sheets from an opened garage door (in the dead of
winter - $10.00 worth of heat lost per opening...).

But I REALLY resist the temptation to saw off anything that can't be
put back on seamlessly. We plan to move in the next few years - and
the next place WILL be large enough to hold all the Big Tools. I
don't care about 3 bathrooms, 3 floors of wasted space, 4 bedrooms or
huge "great rooms" - we never use any of them. All I want is an
office, media room, and a 32x32+ shop. All SWMBO wants is an office,
kitchen and a bedroom. And we both want 10+ acres of land, away from
this stinking city, with no neighbors - other than wildlife.

I've always been glad I resisted the small shop mentality and decision to
not cut back. You can always trim the rail, fence and outfeed table to suit
your situation after the fact.

It's the after the after the fact that concerns me... ;-)
And... I don't believe I have what it takes to violate a nice 50"
fence with a hacksaw. I hate the 28" fence I have now, I'm always
needing a couple more inches... (and what man doesn't...)


Greg G.

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 19:31:43 -0400, Greg wrote:

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20 amps.

Hmmm... According to the NEMA picture chart I have, the 6 generally
denotes 220volts, and the 15 denotes the amperage. A quick spec
search on Leviton's site claims a 15 amp rating for a 6-15R. Code
prohibits installing a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit.

I'm not sure whether the 6-15 is "rated" at 20 amps or not. I know
they are keyed that way. However, on the 120V side, same situation, I
have $1000 that says if you go into your kitchen, where, by code,
there are two 20 amp circuits, you will find nothing but "15 amp
receptacles" (the two vertical bars), even though the plug pattern for
a "20 amp receptacle" is one vertical and one horizontal. The NEMA 20
amp receptacles have a dual slot on one side to accomodate both 15 and
20 amp plugs.

The keying is the key, not the current rating. And in any event, why
would it be a problem putting a "15 amp receptacle" on a 20 amp
circuit. NEC would be much more concerned with putting a 20 amp
receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. You don't want to be plugging in
equipment to a 15 amp circuit that is going to draw more than 15 amps.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

"Greg G." wrote in message

I have contemplated both fences, the Beis being the old reliable, the
Uni being it's fancy knock-off with sliding/flippable rails. Never
heard anything negative about either. I'm big on jigs and fence
mountable "stuff", so the Uni would probably be more appropriate for
me.

Acutally, it is just the opposite. The Beis is much easier to "jig up" than
the OEM UniFence. Adding the aftermarket "Uni-T-Fence" to the UnFence
assembly is what gives you more flexibility, IMO, than a Beis, but it is
definitely an extra cost you would want to factor in.

http://www.ttrackusa.com/

The Beis that comes with the UniSaw is as much fence as anyone could want,
so if your best deal is with the Beis, go for it and you will be ahead of
the game moneywise.

I have often wondered, however, how you use the Uni Fence on the left
side of the blade, with that "stop" resting on the table surface...

?? No such thing on mine?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 09:05:45 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:


"Greg G." wrote in message

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20 amps.

(Depending on which version of the "specs" you go by.)
They recommend a 20 amp breaker and 12g wire.
Either way, my outlets will accept either plug.

Unless things have changed drastically, based on what you say above, you
should be able to immediately 'plug and play' with a 3 HP Unisaw.

The 50" Beis fence sure would be nice, but man does it eat up real
estate. Since you have one, are the rails one piece, or can they be
shortened without a hacksaw?

I have the 52" Uni Fence (with an additional Uni-T-fence aftermarket face,
which I wouldn't trade for anything, that makes it _much_ more versatile
than a Beis). One of the best $80 I've ever spent and would do it again in a
heartbeat.

The Unifence only has one rail (front, with no back rail).

IMO, order the full monte then just cut off what you don't need. But you may
be surprised at what you can stuff in a two car 'shop'. My shop is only 18 x
18 and the table saw and my main work bench are dead center, both acting
like a combination large table/table saw with outfeed table.

I've always been glad I resisted the small shop mentality and decision to
not cut back. You can always trim the rail, fence and outfeed table to suit
your situation after the fact.


All the electrical stuff accurate. 3 HP comes with a NEMA 6-15 plug
and will work appropriately with a 20 AMP receptacle.

You can always get a 30" in either a Bies or a Unifence if you are
space constrained and don't want to fool with cutting off a rail.
Unifence has more neat features; Bies is a little tougher. Both great.

Frank

Frank Boettcher said:

All the electrical stuff accurate. 3 HP comes with a NEMA 6-15 plug
and will work appropriately with a 20 AMP receptacle.

You can always get a 30" in either a Bies or a Unifence if you are
space constrained and don't want to fool with cutting off a rail.
Unifence has more neat features; Bies is a little tougher. Both great.

Frank

Thanks, Frank. The outlets apparently aren't a problem - I tried to
think ahead when I installed the sub-panel. But later, I viewed
another guy's saw that had a twist-lock 30 amp plug wired on - got me
worried. His receptacle wouldn't fit in my metal boxes. Thanks for
the confirmation. (I'm using conduit with THHN wiring and combination
120/240v outlet boxes.)

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/outlets.jpg

You think that's odd, check out these Leviton outlets:
Dual 120/240v 20A sockets in one receptacle!
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/dualoutlets.jpg


The problem with a different fence is that the $1249 Unisaw special I
am looking at comes only with a 50" Bies, extension table and legs.
If I want a shorter rail or a Uni Fence, it'll cost me $1699. Big
difference in $$$...


Greg G.

I have a problem!!! Similar to the topic at hand, I just bought and
installed a new Delta X5 unisaw, installed a 100amp subpanel in the
shop, with a dedicated two-pole 20amp breaker through 12ga wire into
the proper receptacle. When I push "ON" it wont start...
no sound or anything happening. As I hold my voltage tester to the
saws power cord, when I push "ON" it sends power through
the cord and into the motor housing. But still the saw doesnt start.
Any ideas!? I'm in the middle of a job with a deadline, and I cant
wait till monday for Delta tech support to come to work.

matthewrita said:

I have a problem!!! Similar to the topic at hand, I just bought and
installed a new Delta X5 unisaw, installed a 100amp subpanel in the
shop, with a dedicated two-pole 20amp breaker through 12ga wire into
the proper receptacle. When I push "ON" it wont start...
no sound or anything happening. As I hold my voltage tester to the
saws power cord, when I push "ON" it sends power through
the cord and into the motor housing. But still the saw doesnt start.
Any ideas!? I'm in the middle of a job with a deadline, and I cant
wait till monday for Delta tech support to come to work.

Big Red Reset button on the motor comes to mind first off, then a
defective/dirty commutator or start cap.
Does it hum? Will it run if you spin the motor by hand?(!)