Swingman said:

"Greg G." wrote in message

I'm surprised they use a NEMA 6-15P on a saw they rate at 18amps.

If I am not mistaken, the NEMA 6-15P plug is actually rated for 20 amps.

Hmmm... According to the NEMA picture chart I have, the 6 generally
denotes 220volts, and the 15 denotes the amperage. A quick spec
search on Leviton's site claims a 15 amp rating for a 6-15R. Code
prohibits installing a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit.
Doesn't matter to me either way - I doubt that, other than at
start-up, it will ever draw that much current in this shop. I don't
cut 2 1/2" thick hard maple - can't afford it! The gas and oil
companies are getting all of my wood money...

(Depending on which version of the "specs" you go by.)
They recommend a 20 amp breaker and 12g wire.
Either way, my outlets will accept either plug.

Unless things have changed drastically, based on what you say above, you
should be able to immediately 'plug and play' with a 3 HP Unisaw.

Yup, and even if I couldn't, it's a five minute job to swap out a
receptacle.

The 50" Beis fence sure would be nice, but man does it eat up real
estate. Since you have one, are the rails one piece, or can they be
shortened without a hacksaw?

I have the 52" Uni Fence (with an additional Uni-T-fence aftermarket face,
which I wouldn't trade for anything, that makes it _much_ more versatile
than a Beis). One of the best $80 I've ever spent and would do it again in a
heartbeat.

The Unifence only has one rail (front, with no back rail).

I have contemplated both fences, the Beis being the old reliable, the
Uni being it's fancy knock-off with sliding/flippable rails. Never
heard anything negative about either. I'm big on jigs and fence
mountable "stuff", so the Uni would probably be more appropriate for
me. It just happens that the "discounted" saws come with the Beis.
I wish it came with thru-holes for mounting accessories, however.
(Yea, I have a drill...) I have no personal experience with either,
so hindsight is limited.

I have often wondered, however, how you use the Uni Fence on the left
side of the blade, with that "stop" resting on the table surface...

IMO, order the full monte then just cut off what you don't need. But you may
be surprised at what you can stuff in a two car 'shop'. My shop is only 18 x
18 and the table saw and my main work bench are dead center, both acting
like a combination large table/table saw with outfeed table.

Similar setup here - about 19"x19". But it's still pretty crowded.
I built a 2 1/2" thick, 30" x 72" workbench the same height as my
current table saw, but now see that the Unisaw is ~1.5" shorter. So
now I have to whack off the table trestle to match. And, of course,
it can't be from the bottom, 'cause I store 2 Walker hydraulic jacks
underneath the bottom shelf. I built a large, fold-down torsion box
outfeed table that should adapt easily, however. The main bench is a
left side table saw extension, as I got tired of having to clean off
the bench to use the saw. And considering that the shop gets used for
woodworking, woodturning, the occasional engine/auto transmission
overhaul, general staging for home repair materials, electronic
tinkering, projection TV repair, etc., it can get pretty crowded...

I still cut down 4x8 sheets with gulp a circular saw before trimming
on the table saw. I was hoping to eliminate that aggravation - even
if I have to feed sheets from an opened garage door (in the dead of
winter - $10.00 worth of heat lost per opening...).

But I REALLY resist the temptation to saw off anything that can't be
put back on seamlessly. We plan to move in the next few years - and
the next place WILL be large enough to hold all the Big Tools. I
don't care about 3 bathrooms, 3 floors of wasted space, 4 bedrooms or
huge "great rooms" - we never use any of them. All I want is an
office, media room, and a 32x32+ shop. All SWMBO wants is an office,
kitchen and a bedroom. And we both want 10+ acres of land, away from
this stinking city, with no neighbors - other than wildlife.

I've always been glad I resisted the small shop mentality and decision to
not cut back. You can always trim the rail, fence and outfeed table to suit
your situation after the fact.

It's the after the after the fact that concerns me... ;-)
And... I don't believe I have what it takes to violate a nice 50"
fence with a hacksaw. I hate the 28" fence I have now, I'm always
needing a couple more inches... (and what man doesn't...)


Greg G.