Well, I finally got around to upgrading and replacing various tablesaw
sleds and jigs to fit the new saw. And in addition to the mandatory
crosscut box, I designed an add-on for cutting small wedge segments
for turned vessels.

I looked at various designs that others pointed out, and decided to
build this instead. BFG I will build one dedicated add-on jig for
each of the common angles (12 sides, 16 sides, 18 sides).

This jig has not even been fine tuned, but this will be accomplished
by gently sanding the left or right locating boss slightly - then it
is forever aligned perfectly - as long as the main sled survives.
I considered putting an allen head adjustment screw in one boss for
tweaking, but it really wasn't necessary. KISS is my motto. You can
cut through the middle of an 8 foot stick with this design.

The stop block is adjustable for differing lengths of segments.
Yes, it requires a screwdriver - big deal. I guess I could put a
couple of knobs on it when it starts to bother me.

The jig is retained securely to the sled by 1/4" x 20 screws and
T-nuts which are marked by the blue arrows. One keeps the jig
securely sandwiched to the sled, adjacent to the hold-down clamp, and
the other insures that the jig is held against the rear fence so that
the proper angle is maintained. You obviously don't want to torque
down on this one too hard or you'll bow the 'fence' g

The 3/4 inch 'fence' face was jointed perfectly flat and true.
It is HDF core cabinet plywood. I will lacquer the whole mess later.

The crosscut sled is shown here, with the mitre accessory alongside:
(This one is for 12 sided vessels, or 15 degrees.)
You can also _just_ make out the homemade table insert.

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig01.jpg

This is the assembled jig, ready for work:

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig02.jpg

And this is the result of the first test cuts:
(Barreling of the camera lens doesn't do this shot justice.)

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig03.jpg

Pretty good, no? First shot, no sanding, straight off the saw.
Man, I love that geared dial protractor. And the best part?
No high dollar blue or red extruded aluminum. g

FWIW,

Greg G.

Greg G.

Really good! I'll have to make one of those, nice and simple!

John

John T said:

Really good! I'll have to make one of those, nice and simple!

Thanks, John. I haven't seen one quite like it on the web, but I was
certainly impressed when the first 12 wedges went together.
Total cost was: $3.60 for a clamp (on hand) and some scraps.
(And a few days of mulling it over in the back of my mind...)

If you cut too far on one boss or the other when aligning the mitre,
it may be shimmed back up with HD fabric or vinyl tape. This would be
done so that the top mounting screw registers properly - the
clearances on my holes are pretty tight.

FWIW,

Greg G.

In article ,
Greg wrote:

If you cut too far on one boss or the other when aligning the mitre,
it may be shimmed back up with HD fabric or vinyl tape. This would be
done so that the top mounting screw registers properly - the
clearances on my holes are pretty tight.

Couldn't you have made the screw hole a slot in the angle piece? Then it
wouldn't matter so much if you took off too much plus it would likely be
easier to make up other angle jigs that fit the sled too. (Unless I
don't quite understand the way the parts of the jig work together.)

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Pour your end-grain sealer into a clean, wide-mouth
clothes detergent bottle. The lid makes a handy dipping container for
your brush and the leftovers will drain back into the bottle when you
recap the jug.

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 01:55:11 -0500, Greg wrote:

Well, I finally got around to upgrading and replacing various tablesaw
sleds and jigs to fit the new saw. And in addition to the mandatory
crosscut box, I designed an add-on for cutting small wedge segments
for turned vessels.
(snip)

Outstanding, simple idea, Greg - KISS is always the best policy, right
enough. My late Dad used to say an hour making a jig is never wasted.
I can never understand workshops that don't even have a crosscut box.
Thanks for the pictures - one picture worth 1000 words and all that...

I had something similar of my own (probably still have if I can find
it - that kind of workshop) - made for my router table rather than the
saw. But rather than two 'feet' to align it with, I put in a couple
of brass woodscrews - half a turn either way trimmed up the angle.
Kept meaning to replace the woodscrews with threaded inserts, but of
course never ever got around to it.

On the topic of jigs, can anyone point me towards plans for shop-made
hold-down toggle clamps - wooden ones would do? I've made and used
various screw-down devices, with wing-nuts, etc, but toggle clamps are
just that much more convenient for jigs. Larger ones are expensive
enough here in the UK to have me moving them from one jig to another -
bit of a nuisance.

John

Greg,

I can't get the links to come up with anything. What am I doing wrong?

TomNie

"Greg G." wrote in message
...

Well, I finally got around to upgrading and replacing various tablesaw
sleds and jigs to fit the new saw. And in addition to the mandatory
crosscut box, I designed an add-on for cutting small wedge segments
for turned vessels.

I looked at various designs that others pointed out, and decided to
build this instead. BFG I will build one dedicated add-on jig for
each of the common angles (12 sides, 16 sides, 18 sides).

This jig has not even been fine tuned, but this will be accomplished
by gently sanding the left or right locating boss slightly - then it
is forever aligned perfectly - as long as the main sled survives.
I considered putting an allen head adjustment screw in one boss for
tweaking, but it really wasn't necessary. KISS is my motto. You can
cut through the middle of an 8 foot stick with this design.

The stop block is adjustable for differing lengths of segments.
Yes, it requires a screwdriver - big deal. I guess I could put a
couple of knobs on it when it starts to bother me.

The jig is retained securely to the sled by 1/4" x 20 screws and
T-nuts which are marked by the blue arrows. One keeps the jig
securely sandwiched to the sled, adjacent to the hold-down clamp, and
the other insures that the jig is held against the rear fence so that
the proper angle is maintained. You obviously don't want to torque
down on this one too hard or you'll bow the 'fence' g

The 3/4 inch 'fence' face was jointed perfectly flat and true.
It is HDF core cabinet plywood. I will lacquer the whole mess later.

The crosscut sled is shown here, with the mitre accessory alongside:
(This one is for 12 sided vessels, or 15 degrees.)
You can also _just_ make out the homemade table insert.

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig01.jpg

This is the assembled jig, ready for work:

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig02.jpg

And this is the result of the first test cuts:
(Barreling of the camera lens doesn't do this shot justice.)

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig03.jpg

Pretty good, no? First shot, no sanding, straight off the saw.
Man, I love that geared dial protractor. And the best part?
No high dollar blue or red extruded aluminum. g

FWIW,

Greg G.

Greg G.

Tom Nie said:

Greg,

I can't get the links to come up with anything. What am I doing wrong?

TomNie

You're top-posting, Tom. g
But seriously, I don't know what you could be doing wrong.
You appear to be using Outhouse/IE, so it _should_ work fine.
Could have been the phase of the moon. These are links to .JPG
photos, not web pages - perhaps something in your browser
configuration has gone awry?

I you still can't see them, and want to, I could post them to a.b.p.w.

FWIW,

Greg G.

Owen Lowe said:

In article ,
Greg wrote:

If you cut too far on one boss or the other when aligning the mitre,
it may be shimmed back up with HD fabric or vinyl tape. This would be
done so that the top mounting screw registers properly - the
clearances on my holes are pretty tight.

Couldn't you have made the screw hole a slot in the angle piece? Then it
wouldn't matter so much if you took off too much plus it would likely be
easier to make up other angle jigs that fit the sled too. (Unless I
don't quite understand the way the parts of the jig work together.)

Yes, Owen, but it's not in my nature to do such things... g
A slot implies an imperfection that must be compensated for.
Once it's aligned, it never gets moved again. I'm not B&D. g

(I drill the hole AFTER aligning the angle to within a degree.
And I used the original as a drill template for subsequent plates.)

See later post for an additional jig example.

FWIW,

Greg G.

John said:

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 01:55:11 -0500, Greg wrote:

Well, I finally got around to upgrading and replacing various tablesaw
sleds and jigs to fit the new saw. And in addition to the mandatory
crosscut box, I designed an add-on for cutting small wedge segments
for turned vessels.
(snip)

Outstanding, simple idea, Greg - KISS is always the best policy, right
enough. My late Dad used to say an hour making a jig is never wasted.
I can never understand workshops that don't even have a crosscut box.
Thanks for the pictures - one picture worth 1000 words and all that...

I hope it's of some use to someone out there...

I had something similar of my own (probably still have if I can find
it - that kind of workshop) - made for my router table rather than the
saw. But rather than two 'feet' to align it with, I put in a couple
of brass woodscrews - half a turn either way trimmed up the angle.
Kept meaning to replace the woodscrews with threaded inserts, but of
course never ever got around to it.

As mentioned in the post, I considered using a setscrew for
fine-tuning, but it just wasn't worth the effort. I also considered
putting a wire strap hooked to the saw fence to eliminate the
possibility of chopping completely through the jig fence, but, again,
it wasn't worth the effort. You just have to remember NOT to shove it
completely through the saw.

That is one thing that struck me about the jigs I had seen on the
Internet - they all used narrow.stock for the jig 'fence' - and after
it gets chopped through a few time with a saw blade, they are weakened
and would be subject to flexing.

On the topic of jigs, can anyone point me towards plans for shop-made
hold-down toggle clamps - wooden ones would do? I've made and used
various screw-down devices, with wing-nuts, etc, but toggle clamps are
just that much more convenient for jigs. Larger ones are expensive
enough here in the UK to have me moving them from one jig to another -
bit of a nuisance.

Can't really help you there, but the metal hold-down clamps I used on
this were only $4 US each. Got them at Highland Hardware.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2788

They are Taiwanese in origin.
But now I notice the price has increased to $6 US each.


Greg G.

In article ,
Greg wrote:

Yes, Owen, but it's not in my nature to do such things... g
A slot implies an imperfection that must be compensated for.
Once it's aligned, it never gets moved again. I'm not B&D. g

(I drill the hole AFTER aligning the angle to within a degree.
And I used the original as a drill template for subsequent plates.)

See later post for an additional jig example.

Thanks Greg for posting your sled/jig. The two "feet" for adjusting the
angle is really quite clever - and simple - is this technique your own
or have you seen it with other jigs?

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Pour your end-grain sealer into a clean, wide-mouth
clothes detergent bottle. The lid makes a handy dipping container for
your brush and the leftovers will drain back into the bottle when you
recap the jug.

Greg G. said:

Well, I finally got around to upgrading and replacing various tablesaw
sleds and jigs to fit the new saw. And in addition to the mandatory
crosscut box, I designed an add-on for cutting small wedge segments
for turned vessels.
...snip...
The crosscut sled is shown here, with the mitre accessory alongside:
(This one is for 12 sided vessels, or 15 degrees.)
....

And this one is for 18 segment rings - or 10 degrees.
Took about a half-hour to build - again, made from scrap.

This is the assembled jig, ready for work:
http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig05.jpg
The 15 degree jig is sitting to the right - clampless.
(I ran out of hold-downs...)

This is the result of the first test cuts:
(And again, barreling of the lens effects the image somewhat.)

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig06.jpg

No sanding, straight off the saw. Another good thing?
No high dollar gold extruded aluminum, either. g

FWIW,

Greg G.

Owen Lowe said:

In article ,
Greg wrote:

Yes, Owen, but it's not in my nature to do such things... g
A slot implies an imperfection that must be compensated for.
Once it's aligned, it never gets moved again. I'm not B&D. g

(I drill the hole AFTER aligning the angle to within a degree.
And I used the original as a drill template for subsequent plates.)

See later post for an additional jig example.

Thanks Greg for posting your sled/jig. The two "feet" for adjusting the
angle is really quite clever - and simple - is this technique your own
or have you seen it with other jigs?

Thanks! I hope this idea helps someone else out there...

I've not seen it before, and was the result of pondering different
ways to keep the supports as far apart as possible (for stability.)

I had a regular-old-regular 1"x4" fence type jig on the old saw, but
never really liked it - the fence was too flexible and easy to chop in
half if you weren't paying close attention. (Yeah, I know - don't use
a saw if you're not paying attention...) I got that idea from Kevin
Neelley's web site. His comment was that he raised the blade height
to max to avoid cutting the fence as deeply - not the best solution in
my paranoid mind. With this solution, you only have to clear the
gullets of the blade. I haven't done testing to determine which style
results in a cleaner cut, however.

The fence would also distort very slightly with changes in humidity.
Hopefully, this 'slab' fence will eliminate that problem. I'm
starting to think I should have made it taller, however. I guess I
could laminate another layer on the edge for better support of tall
items... we'll see...

Personally, I like this idea better - so far.


Greg G.

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 12:28:32 -0500, Greg wrote:

John said:
On the topic of jigs, can anyone point me towards plans for shop-made
hold-down toggle clamps - wooden ones would do? I've made and used
various screw-down devices, with wing-nuts, etc, but toggle clamps are
just that much more convenient for jigs. Larger ones are expensive
enough here in the UK to have me moving them from one jig to another -
bit of a nuisance.

Can't really help you there, but the metal hold-down clamps I used on
this were only $4 US each. Got them at Highland Hardware.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2788


Thanks. Highland Hardware sounded really promising - until I realised
it's in Atlanta, while I'm in Scotland G.

Over here, they each seem to cost the equivalent of about $10-$12 your
money. Fair enough if you only want one or two, but if you want a
couple for every new jig it's a dent in a small fixed pension.

Looks as though I might have to take one to pieces and try to
replicate it.

Thanks again for the jig - sometimes all we need to brighten the week
is a new idea. SWMBO reckons I make more jigs and tools than anything
else - looking around the workshop, she may be right... I even been
known to use some of them G.

John

Greg,

Now that I've I'm thought of as dumb I might as well prove the theory.

What's "top-posting"?

And I've tried www.thevideodoc.com all by itself even and can't get a page
to appear. Yet others act like they've been able to see the pics. Are the
snipes really out tonight so we can go hunting??

TomNie

"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Tom Nie said:

Greg,

I can't get the links to come up with anything. What am I doing wrong?

TomNie

You're top-posting, Tom. g
But seriously, I don't know what you could be doing wrong.
You appear to be using Outhouse/IE, so it _should_ work fine.
Could have been the phase of the moon. These are links to .JPG
photos, not web pages - perhaps something in your browser
configuration has gone awry?

I you still can't see them, and want to, I could post them to a.b.p.w.

FWIW,

Greg G.

John said:

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 12:28:32 -0500, Greg wrote:

Can't really help you there, but the metal hold-down clamps I used on
this were only $4 US each. Got them at Highland Hardware.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2788

Thanks. Highland Hardware sounded really promising - until I realised
it's in Atlanta, while I'm in Scotland G.

Sorry, I'm just a tease - figured the 'Highland' part might mess with
your head a little... g It's just down the road a bit from me.

Thanks again for the jig - sometimes all we need to brighten the week
is a new idea. SWMBO reckons I make more jigs and tools than anything
else - looking around the workshop, she may be right... I even been
known to use some of them G.

I, too, made the mistake of manufacturing far more jigs for the last
saw than I actually USED. Huge upright door panel insert cutting
sleds, four widths of box joints, mitre spline jigs, etc.

About all I use are the crosscut box, these things, and the 1/2" and
3/4" box (finger) joint jigs. But I considered it 'practice' for when
I could afford 'real' wood. g


Greg G.

Tom Nie said:

Greg,

Now that I've I'm thought of as dumb I might as well prove the theory.

What's "top-posting"?

Tom, I'm sure you'll get _plenty_ of response on this - don your Nomex
flame suit - quickly...

But top posting is the habit of placing your response above the
previous text. Usenet convention and Netiquette maintains that this
is improper for numerous reasons - regardless of Gate's and Company's
desire to FUBAR Usenet with Outhouse Express.

Most of these threads end up archived, and it makes it easier to read
a thread if the response follows the quoted text, or is interspersed
within - with proper quote delimiters. Like this...

And I've tried www.thevideodoc.com all by itself even and can't get a page
to appear. Yet others act like they've been able to see the pics. Are the
snipes really out tonight so we can go hunting??

Aw, shoot, guys. He figured it out. Snipe hunt's over. g

Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus... I mean a web site.
I run my own servers, and it is, in fact, a valid site.
Are you using XP perchance?
The evilest software bloat to ever appear on the market... g

Check your settings in the XP firewall feature or your hardware router
settings. Or go to a Command Prompt and ping my domain.
This should give you some idea if your machine is FUBAR'd.
There is a slim possibility that your ISP blocks it, but I doubt it.
If I knew your IP address and browser type, I could check my server
logs to see if anything is wrong at this end.

Hmm. let's see. You're on Charter, and you appear to be in Georgia or
North Florida. I can't any reason see why there would be a problem.

If you have access to an anonymizer, try browsing to the site from
there instead.

Shoot, I'll just post the pictures to your attention in:
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

FWIW,

Greg G.

In article , Greg G. says...


Well, I finally got around to upgrading and replacing various tablesaw
sleds and jigs to fit the new saw. And in addition to the mandatory
crosscut box, I designed an add-on for cutting small wedge segments
for turned vessels.

I looked at various designs that others pointed out, and decided to
build this instead. BFG I will build one dedicated add-on jig for
each of the common angles (12 sides, 16 sides, 18 sides).

This jig has not even been fine tuned, but this will be accomplished
by gently sanding the left or right locating boss slightly - then it
is forever aligned perfectly - as long as the main sled survives.
I considered putting an allen head adjustment screw in one boss for
tweaking, but it really wasn't necessary. KISS is my motto. You can
cut through the middle of an 8 foot stick with this design.

The stop block is adjustable for differing lengths of segments.
Yes, it requires a screwdriver - big deal. I guess I could put a
couple of knobs on it when it starts to bother me.

The jig is retained securely to the sled by 1/4" x 20 screws and
T-nuts which are marked by the blue arrows. One keeps the jig
securely sandwiched to the sled, adjacent to the hold-down clamp, and
the other insures that the jig is held against the rear fence so that
the proper angle is maintained. You obviously don't want to torque
down on this one too hard or you'll bow the 'fence' g

The 3/4 inch 'fence' face was jointed perfectly flat and true.
It is HDF core cabinet plywood. I will lacquer the whole mess later.

The crosscut sled is shown here, with the mitre accessory alongside:
(This one is for 12 sided vessels, or 15 degrees.)
You can also _just_ make out the homemade table insert.

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig01.jpg

This is the assembled jig, ready for work:

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig02.jpg

And this is the result of the first test cuts:
(Barreling of the camera lens doesn't do this shot justice.)

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig03.jpg

Pretty good, no? First shot, no sanding, straight off the saw.
Man, I love that geared dial protractor. And the best part?
No high dollar blue or red extruded aluminum. g

FWIW,

Greg G.

Greg G.

Hello Greg,

Very nice design. I would like to share it with my More Woodturning readers. May
I have permission to publish you text and photos in More Woodturning? You may
respond to the following e-mail address: . I'm working
on the January issue now and would like to include your story in that issue.

Thank you in advance for granting permission.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

In article , Greg G. says...


Well, I finally got around to upgrading and replacing various tablesaw
sleds and jigs to fit the new saw. And in addition to the mandatory
crosscut box, I designed an add-on for cutting small wedge segments
for turned vessels.

I looked at various designs that others pointed out, and decided to
build this instead. BFG I will build one dedicated add-on jig for
each of the common angles (12 sides, 16 sides, 18 sides).

This jig has not even been fine tuned, but this will be accomplished
by gently sanding the left or right locating boss slightly - then it
is forever aligned perfectly - as long as the main sled survives.
I considered putting an allen head adjustment screw in one boss for
tweaking, but it really wasn't necessary. KISS is my motto. You can
cut through the middle of an 8 foot stick with this design.

The stop block is adjustable for differing lengths of segments.
Yes, it requires a screwdriver - big deal. I guess I could put a
couple of knobs on it when it starts to bother me.

The jig is retained securely to the sled by 1/4" x 20 screws and
T-nuts which are marked by the blue arrows. One keeps the jig
securely sandwiched to the sled, adjacent to the hold-down clamp, and
the other insures that the jig is held against the rear fence so that
the proper angle is maintained. You obviously don't want to torque
down on this one too hard or you'll bow the 'fence' g

The 3/4 inch 'fence' face was jointed perfectly flat and true.
It is HDF core cabinet plywood. I will lacquer the whole mess later.

The crosscut sled is shown here, with the mitre accessory alongside:
(This one is for 12 sided vessels, or 15 degrees.)
You can also _just_ make out the homemade table insert.

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig01.jpg

This is the assembled jig, ready for work:

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig02.jpg

And this is the result of the first test cuts:
(Barreling of the camera lens doesn't do this shot justice.)

http://www.thevideodoc.com/Images/SegmentJig03.jpg

Pretty good, no? First shot, no sanding, straight off the saw.
Man, I love that geared dial protractor. And the best part?
No high dollar blue or red extruded aluminum. g

FWIW,

Greg G.

Greg G.

Greg G. wrote:

No sanding, straight off the saw. Another good thing?
No high dollar gold extruded aluminum, either. g

FWIW,

Greg G.

Sweet. I notice though that the way you have the stop positioned that
the cut off segment is trapped between it and the sawblade. Do you stop
the saw each cut, before backing the jig up? I'd think the segment
would have a tendency to get caught by the teeth of the saw blade and
flung around or get chewed up.

Have you tried it the other way?

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

Kevin Miller said:

Greg G. wrote:

No sanding, straight off the saw. Another good thing?
No high dollar gold extruded aluminum, either. g

FWIW,

Greg G.

Sweet. I notice though that the way you have the stop positioned that
the cut off segment is trapped between it and the sawblade. Do you stop
the saw each cut, before backing the jig up? I'd think the segment
would have a tendency to get caught by the teeth of the saw blade and
flung around or get chewed up.

Have you tried it the other way?

Hi, Kevin,

The cut segment is retained by the hold-down clamp.
Without it, what you envision would most certainly occur.

I've not had a problem, and there is little way to accomplish the task
otherwise. It is critical that the stop block be where it is, so that
each piece is _exactly_ the same dimension, with no readjusting of the
stop block required for each individual segment ring.

I only cut far enough to sever the segment, and the sled is fully
retracted without turning off the saw. I remove the wedge, and
proceed to cut another segment. One start of the saw is all I need to
cut the entire ring. Of course, you must keep your hands well clear
of the blade, which is _not_ exposed within the sled platform when
fully retracted. The sled must fit the mitre slots snuggly, so that
no movement of the sled occurs.

FWIW,

Greg G.

Greg G. wrote:
John said:

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 12:28:32 -0500, Greg wrote:

Can't really help you there, but the metal hold-down clamps I used on
this were only $4 US each. Got them at Highland Hardware.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2788
Thanks. Highland Hardware sounded really promising - until I realised
it's in Atlanta, while I'm in Scotland G.

Sorry, I'm just a tease - figured the 'Highland' part might mess with
your head a little... g It's just down the road a bit from me.

So if you use your Visa card is it a "Highland charge"? g

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Tom Nie said:

Greg,

Now that I've I'm thought of as dumb I might as well prove the theory.

What's "top-posting"?

Tom, I'm sure you'll get _plenty_ of response on this - don your Nomex
flame suit - quickly...

But top posting is the habit of placing your response above the
previous text. Usenet convention and Netiquette maintains that this
is improper for numerous reasons - regardless of Gate's and Company's
desire to FUBAR Usenet with Outhouse Express.

Most of these threads end up archived, and it makes it easier to read
a thread if the response follows the quoted text, or is interspersed
within - with proper quote delimiters. Like this...

And I've tried www.thevideodoc.com all by itself even and can't get a page
to appear. Yet others act like they've been able to see the pics. Are the
snipes really out tonight so we can go hunting??

Aw, shoot, guys. He figured it out. Snipe hunt's over. g

Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus... I mean a web site.
I run my own servers, and it is, in fact, a valid site.
Are you using XP perchance?
The evilest software bloat to ever appear on the market... g

Check your settings in the XP firewall feature or your hardware router
settings. Or go to a Command Prompt and ping my domain.
This should give you some idea if your machine is FUBAR'd.
There is a slim possibility that your ISP blocks it, but I doubt it.
If I knew your IP address and browser type, I could check my server
logs to see if anything is wrong at this end.

Hmm. let's see. You're on Charter, and you appear to be in Georgia or
North Florida. I can't any reason see why there would be a problem.

If you have access to an anonymizer, try browsing to the site from
there instead.

Shoot, I'll just post the pictures to your attention in:
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

FWIW,

Greg G.

Greg,
Well, I had enough sense to combine and decode. And it's North Carolina
foothills, OE, and XP. For the computer illiterate a seemingly reasonable
package.

The only ping I know belongs to pong or in a submarine. If there's an
anonymizer in my computer I hope it gets beamed up by an atomizer while
watching Star Trek.

As much as MS is BS and a legal way to extort I'm sure I must be FUBAR'd or
SCREWBAR'd but doubt I'll have enough sense to figure out which.

Now as to the pictures - cool. Thanks a ton for all your trouble. If you
post specs like requested then let me know.

TomNie

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 20:50:35 -0900, Kevin Miller
wrote:

Greg G. wrote:
John said:

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 12:28:32 -0500, Greg wrote:

Can't really help you there, but the metal hold-down clamps I used on
this were only $4 US each. Got them at Highland Hardware.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...OD&ProdID=2788
Thanks. Highland Hardware sounded really promising - until I realised
it's in Atlanta, while I'm in Scotland G.

Sorry, I'm just a tease - figured the 'Highland' part might mess with
your head a little... g It's just down the road a bit from me.

So if you use your Visa card is it a "Highland charge"? g

Och, dearie me...

If no-one minds my straying well OT, here's a 'highland' story you
might like...

During the Jacobite Wars, a large column of government troops is
marching along a glen in the Highlands. A kilted highlander appears
on a nearby hilltop. Dancing up and down, waving his arms, he shouts
insults and challenges.
The English General beckons to an infantryman, "You there! Get up that
hill and bring me back that fellow's head!" The highlander disappears
over the hill with the soldier in pursuit. There are sounds of an
affray, and a moment later the highlander reappears atop the hill,
shouting and gesticulating. "Is yon the best ye can dae?? Ye
lily-livered sassenachs!"
The General summons a platoon, "Get that savage, and bring him to me -
in several pieces if necessary!"
The highlander once again retreats over the hill, this time with a
platoon in pursuit. There are several minutes of horrendous noise, and
the highlander is back atop his hill, shouting insults.
The General, now seriously annoyed, summons a company of cavalry.
"Charge that hill, and cut that Scots devil to pieces! I want him
dead!"
The cavalry charge the hill, and disappear out of sight after the
highlander. More noise and confusion, but only an empty horse makes it
back. And of course the highlander - "Ye cowardly sassenachs! Ye
couldnae fight y'r way oot o' a bowl o' porritch!!" he shouts, baring
his behind to the furious English.
The General, now black with fury, details a whole regiment - a third
of his column - to take the hill and hang the highlander. The regiment
advances on the hill, the highlander flees again with the regiment
pursues him. There's a quarter hour of furious yelling, screaming and
general sounds of mayhem. A lone soldier reappears, staggering, at the
top of the hill, his uniform in tatters, one arm hanging limp, his
face covered in blood...
"Go back, General! It's a trap! - There are two of them!!!"

John

Greg G. wrote:
Hi, Kevin,

The cut segment is retained by the hold-down clamp.
Without it, what you envision would most certainly occur.

I've not had a problem, and there is little way to accomplish the task
otherwise. It is critical that the stop block be where it is, so that
each piece is _exactly_ the same dimension, with no readjusting of the
stop block required for each individual segment ring.

I only cut far enough to sever the segment, and the sled is fully
retracted without turning off the saw. I remove the wedge, and
proceed to cut another segment. One start of the saw is all I need to
cut the entire ring. Of course, you must keep your hands well clear
of the blade, which is _not_ exposed within the sled platform when
fully retracted. The sled must fit the mitre slots snuggly, so that
no movement of the sled occurs.

Ah - went right by me that the hold down was on the segment, not the
stop. Looking again I see that's the case so it makes sense now.

If the stop angle was rotated the other way it would still work, but the
segment wouldn't be trapped between the saw blade and the stop - it
would float free after cutting, but that's assuming that it isn't held
down. Now, knowing that it is, I think the way you have it is probably
optimal. Thanks again for posting...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

Kevin Miller said:

Greg G. wrote:
The cut segment is retained by the hold-down clamp.
Without it, what you envision would most certainly occur.
snip

Ah - went right by me that the hold down was on the segment, not the
stop. Looking again I see that's the case so it makes sense now.

If the stop angle was rotated the other way it would still work, but the
segment wouldn't be trapped between the saw blade and the stop - it
would float free after cutting, but that's assuming that it isn't held
down. Now, knowing that it is, I think the way you have it is probably
optimal. Thanks again for posting...

Another option, and one that would be required for cutting _very_
small slices, would be to use a two piece stop. Place the regular jig
stop, and a 2" auxiliary stop into the desired position. Then
position the target wood, remove the secondary stop, and cut. The
small piece would _usually_ fall away from the blade, but it still
might get kicked-out or nicked by the blade on occasion.

FWIW,

Greg G.