Owen Lowe said:

In article ,
Greg wrote:

Yes, Owen, but it's not in my nature to do such things... g
A slot implies an imperfection that must be compensated for.
Once it's aligned, it never gets moved again. I'm not B&D. g

(I drill the hole AFTER aligning the angle to within a degree.
And I used the original as a drill template for subsequent plates.)

See later post for an additional jig example.

Thanks Greg for posting your sled/jig. The two "feet" for adjusting the
angle is really quite clever - and simple - is this technique your own
or have you seen it with other jigs?

Thanks! I hope this idea helps someone else out there...

I've not seen it before, and was the result of pondering different
ways to keep the supports as far apart as possible (for stability.)

I had a regular-old-regular 1"x4" fence type jig on the old saw, but
never really liked it - the fence was too flexible and easy to chop in
half if you weren't paying close attention. (Yeah, I know - don't use
a saw if you're not paying attention...) I got that idea from Kevin
Neelley's web site. His comment was that he raised the blade height
to max to avoid cutting the fence as deeply - not the best solution in
my paranoid mind. With this solution, you only have to clear the
gullets of the blade. I haven't done testing to determine which style
results in a cleaner cut, however.

The fence would also distort very slightly with changes in humidity.
Hopefully, this 'slab' fence will eliminate that problem. I'm
starting to think I should have made it taller, however. I guess I
could laminate another layer on the edge for better support of tall
items... we'll see...

Personally, I like this idea better - so far.


Greg G.