I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type. The parts I plan to make will be
small, typically less than 6", and I expect to mostly use aluminum, although
I'll also be working with plastic and maybe a little brass. I'd like a
quality product that won't break the bank but also won't fall apart after a
year or so of use. It doesn't have to produce NASA quality parts, but since
I'll mostly be making small parts, I don't want a cheap import that's real
sloppy. What would be a couple of good brands/models to look for?

Sherline - see www.sherline.com
"W.E.Cole" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type. The parts I plan to make will be
small, typically less than 6", and I expect to mostly use aluminum,
although
I'll also be working with plastic and maybe a little brass. I'd like a
quality product that won't break the bank but also won't fall apart after
a
year or so of use. It doesn't have to produce NASA quality parts, but
since
I'll mostly be making small parts, I don't want a cheap import that's real
sloppy. What would be a couple of good brands/models to look for?

I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type. The parts I plan to make will be
small, typically less than 6", and I expect to mostly use aluminum, although

If you really need to turn 6 inch diameter parts, a "small" lathe
isn't up to the task. Its difficult to turn 6 inch diameter parts
on a 6 inch lathe.

My advice is to buy a real lathe ( Clausing, Rockwell, South bend etc)
if you have the room. You will eventually end up there anyway. I started
with a tiny sherline lathe (www.sherline.com) and kept moving up in size
over the past 8 years.

I have owned seven lathes in 8 years. I currently own three (sherline,
myford super 7, rockwell 11x24). If forced to keep only one, I would keep
the rockwell. However this is a 1000 lb machine and my not fit your
living quarters.

A 12 inch atlas/craftsman is a good starting point, but it cannot compete
with an industrial lathe. On the plus side is that it only weighs about
300 lbs and would a lot easier to move and maybe cheaper depending on
the condition.

The import 7x12 or 7x20 lathes are useful and very popular too.

chuck

Sounds like you are biased against the 7x12 Asians, but I'd expect this
to be the best bang-for-the buck with the conditions you specified. You
might also look at the 8x14 variants, such as Lathemaster.com and others
sell.
Next step up would be the 9-inch old iron. I have a Logan 9x17 that
does everything I've needed, and is a quality US machine. Other good
choices include Southbend.
Avoid the 9x20 Asians unless you find a bargain ($350)
I would also avoid the Atlas machines, again unless you find a
pristine machine at a great price. Beyond that almost any 10" to 12"
lathe in good condition will work well for you.

W.E.Cole wrote:

I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type. The parts I plan to make will be
small, typically less than 6", and I expect to mostly use aluminum, although
I'll also be working with plastic and maybe a little brass. I'd like a
quality product that won't break the bank but also won't fall apart after a
year or so of use. It doesn't have to produce NASA quality parts, but since
I'll mostly be making small parts, I don't want a cheap import that's real
sloppy. What would be a couple of good brands/models to look for?

Try Shopmaster for the 3 in 1 machines- may be just right for your needs-
following is a link about robotics work on one of their machines
http://forums.delphiforums.com/Shopt...es/?msg=1215.1

"W.E.Cole" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type. The parts I plan to make will be
small, typically less than 6", and I expect to mostly use aluminum,
although
I'll also be working with plastic and maybe a little brass. I'd like a
quality product that won't break the bank but also won't fall apart after
a
year or so of use. It doesn't have to produce NASA quality parts, but
since
I'll mostly be making small parts, I don't want a cheap import that's real
sloppy. What would be a couple of good brands/models to look for?

where do you live??
"W.E.Cole" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type. The parts I plan to make will be
small, typically less than 6", and I expect to mostly use aluminum,
although
I'll also be working with plastic and maybe a little brass. I'd like a
quality product that won't break the bank but also won't fall apart after
a
year or so of use. It doesn't have to produce NASA quality parts, but
since
I'll mostly be making small parts, I don't want a cheap import that's real
sloppy. What would be a couple of good brands/models to look for?

Dallas area (Texas).

"Waynemak" wrote in message
...
where do you live??
"W.E.Cole" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics
hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type. The parts I plan to make will
be
small, typically less than 6", and I expect to mostly use aluminum,
although
I'll also be working with plastic and maybe a little brass. I'd like a
quality product that won't break the bank but also won't fall apart
after
a
year or so of use. It doesn't have to produce NASA quality parts, but
since
I'll mostly be making small parts, I don't want a cheap import that's
real
sloppy. What would be a couple of good brands/models to look for?

I'm not personally biased against the imports, I just got the impression
that a lot of the Asian imports are not as good quality for the dollar as
other sources. If that was a wrong impression, speak up! I'm all ears -
that's why I asked. I want to make sure I have some facts to work from
before I start spending money.

"Rex B" wrote in message
...
Sounds like you are biased against the 7x12 Asians, but I'd expect this
to be the best bang-for-the buck with the conditions you specified. You
might also look at the 8x14 variants, such as Lathemaster.com and others
sell.
Next step up would be the 9-inch old iron. I have a Logan 9x17 that
does everything I've needed, and is a quality US machine. Other good
choices include Southbend.
Avoid the 9x20 Asians unless you find a bargain ($350)
I would also avoid the Atlas machines, again unless you find a
pristine machine at a great price. Beyond that almost any 10" to 12"
lathe in good condition will work well for you.

W.E.Cole wrote:

I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics
hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type. The parts I plan to make will
be
small, typically less than 6", and I expect to mostly use aluminum,
although
I'll also be working with plastic and maybe a little brass. I'd like a
quality product that won't break the bank but also won't fall apart
after a
year or so of use. It doesn't have to produce NASA quality parts, but
since
I'll mostly be making small parts, I don't want a cheap import that's
real
sloppy. What would be a couple of good brands/models to look for?

Several things you might consider before buying anything:

1) Tooling and accessories will cost you a lot more than you expect.
It's easy to spend $500 on tooling to set up and run a 9" lathe.
2) The most important part of a lathe is the tool holder. If it's not
solid, then nothing else really matters. This is the biggest problem
with many small imports.
3) Heavy old lathes are just that, old and heavy. Legendary cast iron
tends to lose its magic when it travels up or down a flight of stairs.


"W.E.Cole" wrote in message
...

I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics

hobby,

preferably a table top or workbench type. The parts I plan to make will

be

small, typically less than 6", and I expect to mostly use aluminum,
although
I'll also be working with plastic and maybe a little brass. I'd like a
quality product that won't break the bank but also won't fall apart

after

a
year or so of use. It doesn't have to produce NASA quality parts, but
since
I'll mostly be making small parts, I don't want a cheap import that's

real

sloppy. What would be a couple of good brands/models to look for?

In article , Rex B wrote:
Sounds like you are biased against the 7x12 Asians, but I'd expect this
to be the best bang-for-the buck with the conditions you specified. You
might also look at the 8x14 variants, such as Lathemaster.com and others
sell.

One consideration is how *long* the workpiece needs to be at 6"
diameter. While most of the above will swing 6" above the bed, check
the spec for how large a workpiece it will swing above the cross-slide.
This is *always* smaller than the swing above the bed, and sometimes as
little as half of that size -- especially on a strong machine.

Next step up would be the 9-inch old iron. I have a Logan 9x17 that
does everything I've needed, and is a quality US machine. Other good
choices include Southbend.

That sounds good to me.

Avoid the 9x20 Asians unless you find a bargain ($350)
I would also avoid the Atlas machines, again unless you find a
pristine machine at a great price. Beyond that almost any 10" to 12"
lathe in good condition will work well for you.

And what *I* settled on is a 12x24" Clausing, which I can
certify does allow turning a 6" diameter workpiece above the
cross-slide, as I have done so.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I'm in Keller, shop is in Azle.
I have a Logan 9x17, and an Atlas 10x36
You are welcome to come look at them and discuss what to look for when
shopping.

By the way, there is a 10" older Wards (Logan) lathe on ebay right now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
It is located in Fort Worth. Currently at $255 with 4 days to go. If you
are interested, I can run look at it for you.

Rex Burkheimer

W.E.Cole wrote:

Dallas area (Texas).


where do you live??

"W.E.Cole" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type.

FWIW (I'm a newbie, so it's not worth much...) I've got a Sherline and I
find that it really is very limited in terms of what it can handle. The
issues a (1) when you put a chuck and drill bit into the tailstock, to
center-drill a piece, there is very little room left for the piece; (1a) the
chuck capacity is 1/4", which is a bit too small for a 1/4" square boring
tool to fit, so boring holes is kind of problematic; (2) the diameter that
can fit through the spindle is very small, so for almost any workpiece
you're limited by the length of the bed; and (3) not being able to thread
(without an attachment that costs as much as the lathe did and that is
turned by crank rather than by motor) is a bit of a pain.

It's a great little lathe for doing very small work, but when working on
anything bigger than about 1.5"D x 3"L I start running into limits. I'm
sure a smarter machinist than me would know tricks to get around those
limits, to some extent, but for me they're a problem. If I had the space
I'd be seriously thinking about something bigger.

Walter,

Get a set of screw machine length drill bits (stub drill bits) for drilling
from the Sherline tail stock. Always start drilling with a center drill.
The short stub drills work well for small jobs in your drill press or small
mill, also.

Don't bore with the tool bit in the tail stock. Put the boring tool bit, on
center, in the tool post instead.

For holding work larger than the spindle through hole, reverse the jaws in
the Sherline chuck. Also, note the reversed jaws can be used to hold hollow
round pieces with the jaws opening out rather than in. Mark the jaws and be
sure to always replace them in their original location.

Screw cutting in the Sherline was "designed in" as an afterthought, I'm
sure. However, with the Sherline screw cutting attachment one can cut very
accurate screws, centered on the spindle. This is a bit awkward, requiring
the headstock to be turned with the left hand; however the reward is a screw
of "machine quality". For more ordinary work you can do internal tapping
with the tap held in the tailstock and turning the work in the headstock by
hand. For external threading small 13/16" diameter dies can be held in a
die holder in the tailstock - or - started "square" by placing a small plate
(parallel) between the die and the flat front of the tailstock. Of course,
the spindle is revolved by hand whilst the die and its guide plate are
advanced via the tailstock. After starting, the die can be turned with the
fingers to complete the cut.

Bob Swinney


"Walter Harley" wrote in message
...
"W.E.Cole" wrote in message
...
I'd like to get a small metal working lathe to use for my robotics hobby,
preferably a table top or workbench type.

FWIW (I'm a newbie, so it's not worth much...) I've got a Sherline and I
find that it really is very limited in terms of what it can handle. The
issues a (1) when you put a chuck and drill bit into the tailstock, to
center-drill a piece, there is very little room left for the piece; (1a)
the chuck capacity is 1/4", which is a bit too small for a 1/4" square
boring tool to fit, so boring holes is kind of problematic; (2) the
diameter that can fit through the spindle is very small, so for almost any
workpiece you're limited by the length of the bed; and (3) not being able
to thread (without an attachment that costs as much as the lathe did and
that is turned by crank rather than by motor) is a bit of a pain.

It's a great little lathe for doing very small work, but when working on
anything bigger than about 1.5"D x 3"L I start running into limits. I'm
sure a smarter machinist than me would know tricks to get around those
limits, to some extent, but for me they're a problem. If I had the space
I'd be seriously thinking about something bigger.

In article ,
Robert Swinney wrote:
Walter,

Get a set of screw machine length drill bits (stub drill bits) for drilling
from the Sherline tail stock. Always start drilling with a center drill.
The short stub drills work well for small jobs in your drill press or small
mill, also.

Also -- you may be able to get drill bits (including center
drills) with a shank to match the taper of your tailstock. I use MT-1
tools in the tailstock of my Compact-5/CNC -- especially when I need a
long drill bit for a through hole.

Don't bore with the tool bit in the tail stock. Put the boring tool bit, on
center, in the tool post instead.

You mean "drill" here, don't you? All boring on a lathe is done
from the toolpost -- except for line boring, where the boring bar is
run between centers and the workpiece is mounted on the cross-slide.

And -- for larger machines (e.g. my 12x24" Clausing), there are
available quick-change holders with a Morse taper socket for this sort
of operation. I presume that something similar is available if you have
a quick-change toolpost for the Sherline -- it just needs to match the
taper in the tailstock -- unless your tailstock is like the one on the
Unimat SL-1000 -- an external thread on the ram which matches the
spindle thread, so you can put the drill chuck on either end -- or the
regular lathe chucks, too.

For holding work larger than the spindle through hole, reverse the jaws in
the Sherline chuck. Also, note the reversed jaws can be used to hold hollow
round pieces with the jaws opening out rather than in. Mark the jaws and be
sure to always replace them in their original location.

And -- pick up the 3-jaw chuck for the Taig (which will fit the
spindle of the Sherline) and use the two-piece jaws to make a custom jaw
for your task. The top jaws for that are aluminum, and easy to machine.

Screw cutting in the Sherline was "designed in" as an afterthought, I'm
sure. However, with the Sherline screw cutting attachment one can cut very
accurate screws, centered on the spindle. This is a bit awkward, requiring
the headstock to be turned with the left hand; however the reward is a screw
of "machine quality".

Much better than the afterthought for thread cutting on the
above-mentioned Unimat, at least. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---