The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working. I'll
check the wiring, earths and bulbs tomorrow but without a wiring diagram
what else can I check?

wrote:

what else can I check?

Rock the car to see if you can see rainwater sloshing around inside the
light-cluster? Nowhere near as common as it used to be ...

On 12/11/2020 18:01, Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

what else can I check?

Rock the car to see if you can see rainwater sloshing around inside the
light-cluster?Â* Nowhere near as common as it used to be ...

Presumably it is CAN bus. With them all out it could be anywhere. Time
to check the codes? I guess it is worth starting with the fuse.

newshound wrote:

Presumably it is CAN bus.

You might expect a "dead bulb" warning on the dash? Got an OBD-II checker?

wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.

None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim
--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 12/11/2020 17:53, wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working. I'll
check the wiring, earths and bulbs tomorrow but without a wiring diagram
what else can I check?
Light (!) dawns. I'd checked fuses, re-seated relays, etcetera but then
decided to try the indicator switch myself - magically the left
indicators started to work. After more experimentation it seems the
switch lever can be moved slightly too far and the left indicators then
stop working and the ticker goes at double rate, jiggle the lever and
they start working again. Probably it's time for a new indicator switch
but I'll investigate first. Now to find out how much plastic needs to
come out before I can get to the switch.

On 12/11/2020 18:32, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.

None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim

errr, none of the bulbs were working means none of the bulbs were working.
Reminds me of a daft joke from childhood (possibly Dave Allen) about
people testing the lights on a car ... sides? "yes"; brakes? "yes";
indicators? "yes" err "no" err "yes" err ... not funny really :-(

wrote:
On 12/11/2020 18:32, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.

None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim

errr, none of the bulbs were working means none of the bulbs were working.

Um, so you have no working headlights, tail lights, brakes lights ,
indicator etc? I think youll find thats an MoT failure. ;-)

Anyhow, glad youve found the fault even if we cant understand each other.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Thu, 12 Nov 2020 19:15:17 +0000, wrote:

snip

Probably it's time for a new indicator switch
but I'll investigate first. Now to find out how much plastic needs to
come out before I can get to the switch.

Sometimes it's just the lower cowling under the wheel (1 / 2 screws?)
then the top cowling (possibly another 3 screws?) and then hope the
loom plugs directly into the switch (quite likely), or then you might
have to get more plastic off.

I have to do that soon [1] and then get the dash out as the odometer /
trip backlight has gone. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

[1] But have done it before with this car as we had to take the dash,
ECU, BCM, ignition switch and key to get the ECU repaired and to save
having to have it re-coded.

Sounds like an intermittent connection to me, but as you say finding it...
In them old days you could hear the relay or actuator and see the wiring
from there.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
wrote:

what else can I check?

Rock the car to see if you can see rainwater sloshing around inside the
light-cluster? Nowhere near as common as it used to be ...

If they really have gone out altogether, then a fuse has gone and one bulb
eventually failed and shorted out one supposes. I'm surprised, I thought
most cars used leds these days.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
wrote in message
...
On 12/11/2020 18:32, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.

None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, I'd still suspect a failing
bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sod's law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim

errr, none of the bulbs were working means none of the bulbs were working.
Reminds me of a daft joke from childhood (possibly Dave Allen) about
people testing the lights on a car ... sides? "yes"; brakes? "yes";
indicators? "yes" err "no" err "yes" err ... not funny really :-(

Brian Gaff wrote:

In them old days you could hear the relay

Now a synthetic relay sound comes through the speakers ... mine also
feeds engine sounds from under the bonnet to the speakers too, I turned
that off with VCDS.

wrote in :

The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working. I'll
check the wiring, earths and bulbs tomorrow but without a wiring diagram
what else can I check?

Had to fix the switch on wife's Aygo. Grease on the contacts has become
oxydised. Had to remove airbag and steeting wheel to fix it -= but great
video on YouTube.

On 12/11/2020 20:17, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
On 12/11/2020 18:32, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.

None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim

errr, none of the bulbs were working means none of the bulbs were working.

Um, so you have no working headlights, tail lights, brakes lights ,
indicator etc? I think youll find thats an MoT failure. ;-)
Almost a fair point, but the context was indicator lights.

Anyhow, glad youve found the fault even if we cant understand each other.
Peace in our time ;-)

Tim

On 12/11/2020 20:24, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 12 Nov 2020 19:15:17 +0000, wrote:

snip

Probably it's time for a new indicator switch
but I'll investigate first. Now to find out how much plastic needs to
come out before I can get to the switch.

Sometimes it's just the lower cowling under the wheel (1 / 2 screws?)
then the top cowling (possibly another 3 screws?) and then hope the
loom plugs directly into the switch (quite likely), or then you might
have to get more plastic off.

I have to do that soon [1] and then get the dash out as the odometer /
trip backlight has gone. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

[1] But have done it before with this car as we had to take the dash,
ECU, BCM, ignition switch and key to get the ECU repaired and to save
having to have it re-coded.

From a bit of web pokery it seems that the steering wheel has to come
off. Up until about 25 years ago I did most jobs on cars, rebuilt
engines (Spitfire, MGB, Saab900, Stag), built a couple of kit cars,
etcetera but then cars changed and my attitudes changed - the days of
lying in the street with spanners and torch on a Sunday night are long
gone. In this case, I've not had the need to fiddle with air bag systems
so I think this job might be going to a garage.

On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 10:55:34 +0000, wrote:

snip

[1] But have done it before with this car as we had to take the dash,
ECU, BCM, ignition switch and key to get the ECU repaired and to save
having to have it re-coded.

From a bit of web pokery it seems that the steering wheel has to come
off.

I didn't assume that to be the case as once past the old cars where
the steering wheel was just held on with one nut and the horn wire,
air-bags and on0wheel-buttons make wheel removal more complicated and
so they tend to make things like the control stalks semi-circular,
held on with a couple of screws and relatively easy to remove. I think
I changed the wiper switch module on daughters Transit connect and I
think you just released the top cowling and the switch unplugged as a
module. ;-)

Up until about 25 years ago I did most jobs on cars, rebuilt
engines (Spitfire, MGB, Saab900, Stag), built a couple of kit cars,
etcetera but then cars changed and my attitudes changed - the days of
lying in the street with spanners and torch on a Sunday night are long
gone.

Understood (which kitcars did you have OOI?).

In this case, I've not had the need to fiddle with air bag systems
so I think this job might be going to a garage.

Understood ... I think when I had to take all the carpets out of
daughters Corsa to dry it out (after fixing the leak) I had to
disconnect the auto-belt tensioners but was told it was safe to do so
once the battery was disconnected. I think there was some sort of
shock sensor on the 'transmission tunnel' that I had to be careful
with and you would have to know things like radio codes and that some
other things didn't happen if you fully disconnected the battery. But
I wouldn't rate doing it (with the exception of how easy it is to get
the steering wheel off if necessary) at the same level of 'car stuff'
at the same level as the mechanical things you have done previously.
;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 13/11/2020 11:41, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 10:55:34 +0000, wrote:

snip

From a bit of web pokery it seems that the steering wheel has to come
off.

I didn't assume that to be the case as once past the old cars where
the steering wheel was just held on with one nut and the horn wire,
air-bags and on0wheel-buttons make wheel removal more complicated and
so they tend to make things like the control stalks semi-circular,
held on with a couple of screws and relatively easy to remove.
I'd expected that to be the case, but a couple of things indicate
otherwise - I'll investigate before walking away from the job.
.... snipped

Understood (which kitcars did you have OOI?).
A Spartan (based on Spitfire parts) and an NG TD (based on MGB parts)

.... snipped

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 12:00:43 +0000, wrote:

snip

I didn't assume that to be the case as once past the old cars where
the steering wheel was just held on with one nut and the horn wire,
air-bags and on0wheel-buttons make wheel removal more complicated and
so they tend to make things like the control stalks semi-circular,
held on with a couple of screws and relatively easy to remove.

I'd expected that to be the case, but a couple of things indicate
otherwise - I'll investigate before walking away from the job.

As is the d-i-y way. ;-)

... snipped

Understood (which kitcars did you have OOI?).

A Spartan (based on Spitfire parts)

I know it.

and an NG TD (based on MGB parts)

And that.

Hindsight of course suggests that, with ample storage space I should
have kept the Mk1 Escort 2 door GT bodyshell I cut up and scrapped,
when we were building the Ranger, seeing the price some of these
classic cars go for these days. ;-(

It was that sort of though that confused me with the idea of using the
likes of Spitfires and MGB's as the basis for kits, even then (way
more than the 'everyday' Escort etc).

Cheers, T i m

In article ,
T i m wrote:
Hindsight of course suggests that, with ample storage space I should
have kept the Mk1 Escort 2 door GT bodyshell I cut up and scrapped,
when we were building the Ranger, seeing the price some of these
classic cars go for these days. ;-(


Even more so with the RWD Escort 2 door. Very popular for classic racing
and rallying.

--
*In "Casablanca", Humphrey Bogart never said "Play it again, Sam" *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"T i m" wrote in message
news
Hindsight of course suggests that, with ample storage space I should
have kept the Mk1 Escort 2 door GT bodyshell I cut up and scrapped,

Silly boy, I still have my MK1 Escort its only a standard 2 door 1100
one previous owner and 15K miles on it when I bought it
in these days when everything is so complicated on cars i still love the
simplicity of its engineering and the ease of working on it is so relaxing


-

wrote:
On 12/11/2020 20:17, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
On 12/11/2020 18:32, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.

None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim

errr, none of the bulbs were working means none of the bulbs were working.

Um, so you have no working headlights, tail lights, brakes lights ,
indicator etc? I think youll find thats an MoT failure. ;-)
Almost a fair point, but the context was indicator lights.

Okay, so none of your indicators were working?

I still dont understand your use of the word €œnone€� in this context. Am I
the only one here confused?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 13:55:13 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
T i m wrote:
Hindsight of course suggests that, with ample storage space I should
have kept the Mk1 Escort 2 door GT bodyshell I cut up and scrapped,
when we were building the Ranger, seeing the price some of these
classic cars go for these days. ;-(


Even more so with the RWD Escort 2 door.

Don't remind me (that's what our Mk1 GT was). ;-(

Very popular for classic racing
and rallying.

Yup, with a 'barn find' mostly-rust car going for many thousand. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 17:44:35 -0000, "Mark" wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
news
Hindsight of course suggests that, with ample storage space I should
have kept the Mk1 Escort 2 door GT bodyshell I cut up and scrapped,

Silly boy,

I know ... ;-(

I still have my MK1 Escort its only a standard 2 door 1100
one previous owner and 15K miles on it when I bought it

I'm envious. One of the cutest cars I've driven (it was my first
company car) was a 1300 Mk2 Escort. I stuck a tow bar on it and it
towed my disco or dinghy trailers pretty well. ;-)

in these days when everything is so complicated on cars i still love the
simplicity of its engineering and the ease of working on it is so relaxing

Tell me about it.

You wouldn't want a 1300, 1300GT or 1600 (Kent) engine for your 1100
would you? ;-)

I'm not sure just how interchangeable the 1100 is with it's bigger
brothers, (13/1600) are fairly so I understand?

If yours is historic I think an engine change (for something that
might have been fitted in those days) is still acceptable?

I was going to upgrade my 1300 to 1600 and possibly with the GT head
(better gas flow) but if I do anything I might make it electric
instead.

Cheers, T i m

On 13/11/2020 13:31, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 12:00:43 +0000, wrote:

snip

I didn't assume that to be the case as once past the old cars where
the steering wheel was just held on with one nut and the horn wire,
air-bags and on0wheel-buttons make wheel removal more complicated and
so they tend to make things like the control stalks semi-circular,
held on with a couple of screws and relatively easy to remove.

I'd expected that to be the case, but a couple of things indicate
otherwise - I'll investigate before walking away from the job.

As is the d-i-y way. ;-)

... snipped

Understood (which kitcars did you have OOI?).

A Spartan (based on Spitfire parts)

I know it.

and an NG TD (based on MGB parts)

And that.

Hindsight of course suggests that, with ample storage space I should
have kept the Mk1 Escort 2 door GT bodyshell I cut up and scrapped,
when we were building the Ranger, seeing the price some of these
classic cars go for these days. ;-(

It was that sort of though that confused me with the idea of using the
likes of Spitfires and MGB's as the basis for kits, even then (way
more than the 'everyday' Escort etc).

Cheers, T i m

When I was 17'ish my dad and I rebuilt the engine in his tired Lotus
Cortina - he didn't know anything about engines, I knew everything
(bul****ting, based on my experience of rebuilding a BSA C15 engine).
This was about 1971. RIP dad.

On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 21:04:09 +0000, wrote:

snip

When I was 17'ish my dad and I rebuilt the engine in his tired Lotus
Cortina - he didn't know anything about engines, I knew everything
(bul****ting, based on my experience of rebuilding a BSA C15 engine).

Hehe.

When I was about 15 I bought a Fiat 850 for 15 quid with a seized
engine. Just armed with a basic socket set, some of Dads tools (RIP
about 10 years ago) and the HBOL, I stripped and rebuilt it on my own.

This was about 1971. RIP dad.

Yeah, mine wasn't really into mechanics (he was more a carpenter) so
wasn't really into helping me do such stuff either. My Uncle was a bit
more mechanically minded and was more interested in helping me do
practical stuff. ;-)

My 'interests' in stuff was often born out of necessity and my own
personal interest. My fist Moped was bought off one of my teachers at
secondary school (not economically viable to repair), repaired by me
and then used to rite to college / girlfriends / everywhere. ;-)

My second moped was given to me when I saw it in a heap in someone's
garage. Turned out to be her husbands, he'd taken it to bits and
hadn't got round to putting it back together before he died. The lady
gave it to me and I borrowed her wheelbarrow to take it home. I had it
together and running later that afternoon. ;-)

It was funny, when the Mrs and I decided to build the kitcar, I didn't
really have any reservations about doing so as I'd done all it
entailed over the years on other vehicles, ether for myself or with /
for mates at the time. I didn't *know* I/we could do it, I just
couldn't see why I/we couldn't. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Friday, November 13, 2020 at 4:55:39 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On 12/11/2020 20:24, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 12 Nov 2020 19:15:17 +0000, wrote:

snip

Probably it's time for a new indicator switch
but I'll investigate first. Now to find out how much plastic needs to
come out before I can get to the switch.

Sometimes it's just the lower cowling under the wheel (1 / 2 screws?)
then the top cowling (possibly another 3 screws?) and then hope the
loom plugs directly into the switch (quite likely), or then you might
have to get more plastic off.

I have to do that soon [1] and then get the dash out as the odometer /
trip backlight has gone. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

[1] But have done it before with this car as we had to take the dash,
ECU, BCM, ignition switch and key to get the ECU repaired and to save
having to have it re-coded.

From a bit of web pokery it seems that the steering wheel has to come
off. Up until about 25 years ago I did most jobs on cars, rebuilt
engines (Spitfire, MGB, Saab900, Stag), built a couple of kit cars,
etcetera but then cars changed and my attitudes changed - the days of
lying in the street with spanners and torch on a Sunday night are long
gone. In this case, I've not had the need to fiddle with air bag systems
so I think this job might be going to a garage.\\

speaking strictly about the Saab, I could swear I remember the steering wheel coming off quite easily

Now lets see how much I got wrong€¦.

mk5000

Earlier this year, his poem "Bulati hai magar jane ka nahi" went viral on social media, making him a sensation among the youth. Memes using the poem's opening lines flooded social media during Valentine's Day.--the week PTI on Rahat Indori

In article ,
T i m wrote:
When I was about 15 I bought a Fiat 850 for 15 quid with a seized
engine. Just armed with a basic socket set, some of Dads tools (RIP
about 10 years ago) and the HBOL, I stripped and rebuilt it on my own.

The Austin 7 (Ruby) we had in the 60s used a lot of oil. But the bearings
seemed OK. Bought an engine from a scrap yard for £3 with the bearings
shot. The Austin engine had a separate block and crankcase, so made one
out of the two. Worked just fine.

--
*When did my wild oats turn to prunes and all bran?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 14 Nov 2020 11:11:38 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
T i m wrote:
When I was about 15 I bought a Fiat 850 for 15 quid with a seized
engine. Just armed with a basic socket set, some of Dads tools (RIP
about 10 years ago) and the HBOL, I stripped and rebuilt it on my own.

The Austin 7 (Ruby) we had in the 60s used a lot of oil. But the bearings
seemed OK. Bought an engine from a scrap yard for £3 with the bearings
shot. The Austin engine had a separate block and crankcase, so made one
out of the two. Worked just fine.

Cool ... and you never know what you can do / achieve till you try.
;-)

Cheers, T i m

In article ,
T i m wrote:
On Sat, 14 Nov 2020 11:11:38 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
T i m wrote:
When I was about 15 I bought a Fiat 850 for 15 quid with a seized
engine. Just armed with a basic socket set, some of Dads tools (RIP
about 10 years ago) and the HBOL, I stripped and rebuilt it on my own.

The Austin 7 (Ruby) we had in the 60s used a lot of oil. But the bearings
seemed OK. Bought an engine from a scrap yard for £3 with the bearings
shot. The Austin engine had a separate block and crankcase, so made one
out of the two. Worked just fine.

Cool ... and you never know what you can do / achieve till you try.
;-)

We were at that age when everything was possible. ;-)

--
*If you think this van is dirty, you should try having sex with the driver*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 14 Nov 2020 13:30:03 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

snip

The Austin 7 (Ruby) we had in the 60s used a lot of oil. But the bearings
seemed OK. Bought an engine from a scrap yard for £3 with the bearings
shot. The Austin engine had a separate block and crankcase, so made one
out of the two. Worked just fine.

Cool ... and you never know what you can do / achieve till you try.
;-)

We were at that age when everything was possible. ;-)

It always amazes me how many people seem to err opposite to that
though (not here of course), even things that were simple and not
dangerous, like car electrics?

It seems that even applies to many (adult / male) workers where it's
usually daughter re-wiring trailer plugs when they get ripped off,
re-assembling more complicated machinery or building display furniture
and decorating the sets when she worked for a Co that sold such stuff
but she worked in the cash office?

Ok, maybe she was unusual in that I saw her as 'a child' and not 'my
daughter' and so she 'helped' her Dad and I encouraged her to do / try
any stuff that I was doing and knew that she should also be able to do
(reasonably safely, managing risk is also a good lesson).

Given the superficial involvement many adults seem to have in anything
'practical' these days, I guess it's not surprising that many kids
don't know where to start.

Thank goodness for Youtube. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 17:44:35 -0000, "Mark" wrote:

I know ... ;-(

I still have my MK1 Escort its only a standard 2 door 1100
one previous owner and 15K miles on it when I bought it


You wouldn't want a 1300, 1300GT or 1600 (Kent) engine for your 1100
would you? ;-)



I bought an RS1600BDA engine soon after I bought the car in 84
but then decided the car was too original to mess with, was going to find
another MK1 to use the engine but never got around to it
I sold the engine about 18 months ago and got around 700 times what I paid
for it
the only thing I have changed on the escort which originally had drum brakes
all round is new struts with disc brakes a girling remote servo and a master
cylinder which holds more then the original egg cup full of brake fluid
photo
https://i.vgy.me/pDYR6U.jpg

-

On Sat, 14 Nov 2020 15:32:09 -0000, "Mark" wrote:

snip

You wouldn't want a 1300, 1300GT or 1600 (Kent) engine for your 1100
would you? ;-)





I bought an RS1600BDA engine soon after I bought the car in 84
but then decided the car was too original to mess with,

Yeah, it is quite a thing, going from 'original to 'not' for all sorts
of reasons / people.

was going to find
another MK1 to use the engine but never got around to it

And probably too late now, if you were looking for something 'cheap'
as a project.

I sold the engine about 18 months ago and got around 700 times what I paid
for it

Wow.

the only thing I have changed on the escort which originally had drum brakes
all round is new struts with disc brakes

You didn't say if it was on the road or registered under 'Historic'
but that even allows for things like that (to improve safety or
ecology).

a girling remote servo and a master
cylinder which holds more then the original egg cup full of brake fluid
photo

;-)

https://i.vgy.me/pDYR6U.jpg

Very clean!

A lad at work inherited his Dads MGB GT and I believe spent much more
than it was worth (at the time) having it restored.

Cheers, T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 14 Nov 2020 15:32:09 -0000, "Mark" wrote:

snip

You wouldn't want a 1300, 1300GT or 1600 (Kent) engine for your 1100
would you? ;-)





I bought an RS1600BDA engine soon after I bought the car in 84
but then decided the car was too original to mess with,

Yeah, it is quite a thing, going from 'original to 'not' for all sorts
of reasons / people.

was going to find
another MK1 to use the engine but never got around to it

And probably too late now, if you were looking for something 'cheap'
as a project.

I sold the engine about 18 months ago and got around 700 times what I paid
for it

Wow.

the only thing I have changed on the escort which originally had drum
brakes
all round is new struts with disc brakes

You didn't say if it was on the road or registered under 'Historic'
but that even allows for things like that (to improve safety or
ecology).

a girling remote servo and a master
cylinder which holds more then the original egg cup full of brake fluid
photo

;-)

https://i.vgy.me/pDYR6U.jpg

Very clean!

A lad at work inherited his Dads MGB GT and I believe spent much more
than it was worth (at the time) having it restored.

my wife wanted a MGB GT in the 80s I looked at loads which were rust buckets
or stupidly overpriced so bought the 924 (which I still have) for much less
then the cheapest rusty MG
it would not start at all once Hot the owner had spend more then I paid for
it on new Porsche ign and fuel parts and garage charges.
It was a simple fix and not elec or fuel related
it was totally reliable for the next 8 years that she used it
The 924 is a much underappreciated car but so much better then an MGB in
every way

-

On 13/11/2020 12:00, wrote:
On 13/11/2020 11:41, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 10:55:34 +0000, wrote:

snip

Â*From a bit of web pokery it seems that the steering wheel has to come
off.

I didn't assume that to be the case as once past the old cars where
the steering wheel was just held on with one nut and the horn wire,
air-bags and on0wheel-buttons make wheel removal more complicated and
so they tend to make things like the control stalks semi-circular,
held on with a couple of screws and relatively easy to remove.
I'd expected that to be the case, but a couple of things indicate
otherwise - I'll investigate before walking away from the job.
... snipped

.... snipped
I've now had the plastic covers off the column and can see that the
indicator and light+wiper switches are all part of one moulding. It
would be easy to remove the assembly once the steering wheel is off but
I'm ignorant about air bag systems so don't fancy doing that myself (I
must be getting old!!)