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Default Car electrics question

The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working. I'll
check the wiring, earths and bulbs tomorrow but without a wiring diagram
what else can I check?
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newshound wrote:

Presumably it is CAN bus.


You might expect a "dead bulb" warning on the dash? Got an OBD-II checker?
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Sounds like an intermittent connection to me, but as you say finding it...
In them old days you could hear the relay or actuator and see the wiring
from there.
Brian

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wrote:

what else can I check?


Rock the car to see if you can see rainwater sloshing around inside the
light-cluster? Nowhere near as common as it used to be ...





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Brian Gaff wrote:

In them old days you could hear the relay


Now a synthetic relay sound comes through the speakers ... mine also
feeds engine sounds from under the bonnet to the speakers too, I turned
that off with VCDS.

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wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.


None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim
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On 12/11/2020 18:32, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.


None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim

errr, none of the bulbs were working means none of the bulbs were working.
Reminds me of a daft joke from childhood (possibly Dave Allen) about
people testing the lights on a car ... sides? "yes"; brakes? "yes";
indicators? "yes" err "no" err "yes" err ... not funny really :-(
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wrote:
On 12/11/2020 18:32, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.


None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim

errr, none of the bulbs were working means none of the bulbs were working.


Um, so you have no working headlights, tail lights, brakes lights ,
indicator etc? I think youll find thats an MoT failure. ;-)

Anyhow, glad youve found the fault even if we cant understand each other.

Tim

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On 12/11/2020 20:17, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
On 12/11/2020 18:32, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.

None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim

errr, none of the bulbs were working means none of the bulbs were working.


Um, so you have no working headlights, tail lights, brakes lights ,
indicator etc? I think youll find thats an MoT failure. ;-)

Almost a fair point, but the context was indicator lights.

Anyhow, glad youve found the fault even if we cant understand each other.

Peace in our time ;-)

Tim




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Default Car electrics question

wrote:
On 12/11/2020 20:17, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
On 12/11/2020 18:32, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
The indicator on SWMBO's i20 has started playing-up. Indicating right is
OK but the flasher sometimes ticks at double speed when indicating left
- it's been intermittent for a week or so (never when I'm around) but
now seems to have gone hard. I'd expected to walk around the car and
smugly point-out a dead bulb, but none of the bulbs are working.

None of the bulbs??

Assuming you mean they were all working, Id still suspect a failing bulb.
Sometimes a broken filament can go through an intermittent phase before
full failure. Sods law means that when you did your walk around, it was
behaving innocently. ;-)

Tim

errr, none of the bulbs were working means none of the bulbs were working.


Um, so you have no working headlights, tail lights, brakes lights ,
indicator etc? I think youll find thats an MoT failure. ;-)

Almost a fair point, but the context was indicator lights.


Okay, so none of your indicators were working?

I still dont understand your use of the word €śnone€ť in this context. Am I
the only one here confused?

Tim

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Default Car electrics question

On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 10:55:34 +0000, wrote:

snip

[1] But have done it before with this car as we had to take the dash,
ECU, BCM, ignition switch and key to get the ECU repaired and to save
having to have it re-coded.

From a bit of web pokery it seems that the steering wheel has to come
off.


I didn't assume that to be the case as once past the old cars where
the steering wheel was just held on with one nut and the horn wire,
air-bags and on0wheel-buttons make wheel removal more complicated and
so they tend to make things like the control stalks semi-circular,
held on with a couple of screws and relatively easy to remove. I think
I changed the wiper switch module on daughters Transit connect and I
think you just released the top cowling and the switch unplugged as a
module. ;-)

Up until about 25 years ago I did most jobs on cars, rebuilt
engines (Spitfire, MGB, Saab900, Stag), built a couple of kit cars,
etcetera but then cars changed and my attitudes changed - the days of
lying in the street with spanners and torch on a Sunday night are long
gone.


Understood (which kitcars did you have OOI?).

In this case, I've not had the need to fiddle with air bag systems
so I think this job might be going to a garage.


Understood ... I think when I had to take all the carpets out of
daughters Corsa to dry it out (after fixing the leak) I had to
disconnect the auto-belt tensioners but was told it was safe to do so
once the battery was disconnected. I think there was some sort of
shock sensor on the 'transmission tunnel' that I had to be careful
with and you would have to know things like radio codes and that some
other things didn't happen if you fully disconnected the battery. But
I wouldn't rate doing it (with the exception of how easy it is to get
the steering wheel off if necessary) at the same level of 'car stuff'
at the same level as the mechanical things you have done previously.
;-)

Cheers, T i m
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On Friday, November 13, 2020 at 4:55:39 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On 12/11/2020 20:24, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 12 Nov 2020 19:15:17 +0000, wrote:

snip

Probably it's time for a new indicator switch
but I'll investigate first. Now to find out how much plastic needs to
come out before I can get to the switch.


Sometimes it's just the lower cowling under the wheel (1 / 2 screws?)
then the top cowling (possibly another 3 screws?) and then hope the
loom plugs directly into the switch (quite likely), or then you might
have to get more plastic off.

I have to do that soon [1] and then get the dash out as the odometer /
trip backlight has gone. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

[1] But have done it before with this car as we had to take the dash,
ECU, BCM, ignition switch and key to get the ECU repaired and to save
having to have it re-coded.

From a bit of web pokery it seems that the steering wheel has to come
off. Up until about 25 years ago I did most jobs on cars, rebuilt
engines (Spitfire, MGB, Saab900, Stag), built a couple of kit cars,
etcetera but then cars changed and my attitudes changed - the days of
lying in the street with spanners and torch on a Sunday night are long
gone. In this case, I've not had the need to fiddle with air bag systems
so I think this job might be going to a garage.\\


speaking strictly about the Saab, I could swear I remember the steering wheel coming off quite easily

Now lets see how much I got wrong€¦.

mk5000

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