Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my
wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that
room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another
one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the
other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in
trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs
power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/catego...xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle
Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a
wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I
have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable
too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:

Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php?
terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k-
BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of
a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will
I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the
cable too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work
for option (2).
If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable
through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy
option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres.
Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router
then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down
tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the
socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.
More hassle and extra tools.

From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable
because you always need more length than you think.


Cheers


Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 29/05/2020 19:22, David wrote:
On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:

Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php?
terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k-
BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of
a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will
I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the
cable too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work
for option (2).
If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable
through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy
option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres.
Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router
then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down
tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the
socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.
More hassle and extra tools.

From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable
because you always need more length than you think.


Cheers


Dave R




A hardwired CAT5e link with wall mounted sockets is the best 'permanent'
solution, but you don't need punchdown tools. Some CAT5e socket modules
just have a press-on cover plate that pushes all 8 wires in in one go.

There are those plug-in things that carry ethernet over mains wiring for
a quick fix. Lifetime before failure ? - variable.

Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious solution and rather than using cable with plugs on, use Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer.

Richard

"David" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:

Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php?
terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k-
BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of
a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will
I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the
cable too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work
for option (2).

yes

I know

If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable
through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy
option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres.

I'm having a man drill holes through the walls.

It only needs to go up one wall

along two ceilings (hall/bedroom)

and back down the wall again


Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.

Yes, but better moulded plugs :-)

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.

my WiFi give me 12 Mbps (when it works properly)

but thinking of upgrading to FTTC

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router
then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down
tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the
socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.

do they have crossovers in?

won't one crossover undo the other

or do I have third crossover in the wall

Or doesn't Ethernet crossover at all?

More hassle and extra tools.

That's clear, but is it DIYable with amateur tools?

From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable
because you always need more length than you think.

tlc don't have 15m cable (or anything longer than 10)

starting with 2 gives me the option of converting to 3 later (when I next
want to decorate), by the addition of two sockets, but if I do that, do I
need new cable or can I just cut the plugs off the one that's there?

"Andrew" wrote in message
...
On 29/05/2020 19:22, David wrote:
On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:

Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php?
terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k-
BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of
a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will
I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the
cable too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work
for option (2).
If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable
through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy
option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres.
Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router
then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down
tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the
socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.
More hassle and extra tools.

From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable
because you always need more length than you think.


Cheers


Dave R




A hardwired CAT5e link with wall mounted sockets is the best 'permanent'
solution, but you don't need punchdown tools. Some CAT5e socket modules
just have a press-on cover plate that pushes all 8 wires in in one go.

that sounds a weird solution starting with a circular cable?

There are those plug-in things that carry ethernet over mains wiring for
a quick fix. Lifetime before failure ? - variable.

I'm going to end up a with Christmas tree of plugs in the hallway, I don't
think this will be a good solution

I'm also not sure that hall and bedroom are on the same ring (yes I know
that I could test by turning it off at the CU)

The man's coming next week to do other work. It wont cost me any more for
him to drill a couple of holes and fix some trucking as I pay him a day rate
and don't have enough other work.

so 5 pounds of cable and 10 pounds for trunking is the cheapest solution

"Tricky Dicky" wrote in message
...
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network

it what I had in the last house

admittedly it was a preinstalled extension, not a dIYed one

it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the
shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious solution
and rather than using cable with plugs on, use Cat5e cable and two sockets
with fly leads to the router and computer.

I'm concerned that if I do this I will mess up connecting the cable to the
connections in the socket

tim

On 29/05/2020 19:44, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master
socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is
the obvious solution and rather than using cable with plugs on, use
Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and
computer.

That is rubbish. I tried an experiment and adding 30m of decent cable to
my ADSL circuit. It was only borderline detectable with 0.1dB loss some
of which was almost certainly the extra inline connectors.
No difference in sync speed at all.

That said I wouldn't recommend running a long phone extension and split
it near the modem. The way mine is done is to split it at the master
socket and then run ADSL only down from the loft to my office and POTS
on the other circuit. You don't want to encourage extra interference.

For reasons best known to themselves BT thought it would be fun to put
my master socket in the loft on the front wall brickwork. This means a
bit of a trek and faffing about whenever there is a reportable line
fault. No mains in the loft so plugging a modem into the master socket
requires a fair bit of effort moving things into position.

Belgacom in Belgium were worse - they installed my ISDN service as a
feature artwork in the dining room with a myriad of blinking LEDs.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Friday, 29 May 2020 18:38:15 UTC+1, tim... wrote:
In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs
power. This has to be the last choice option.

The somewhat-lateral approach to that problem is to run the router's power supply over the ethernet cable between the router and a central location.

https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yS3u.png at
https://superuser.com/questions/1311...our-fttp-point

and makes the point it can make it easier to put the router onto a UPS near all the other network equipment.

Owain

On Friday, 29 May 2020 18:38:15 UTC+1, tim... wrote:
3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another
one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the
other.
If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle
Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

You don't, that's handled by Ethernet - and most adapters now handle crossovers if they occur inadvertently.

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable
Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a
wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I
have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable
too much?

Probably not.

Don't use CCA / aluminium cable.

Owain

On Fri, 29 May 2020 19:48:47 +0100, tim... wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:

Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble
with my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php?

terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k-
BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side
of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking?
Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending
the cable too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work
for option (2).

yes

I know

If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable
through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an
easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres.

I'm having a man drill holes through the walls.

It only needs to go up one wall

along two ceilings (hall/bedroom)

and back down the wall again


Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.

Yes, but better moulded plugs :-)

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.

my WiFi give me 12 Mbps (when it works properly)

but thinking of upgrading to FTTC

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the
router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a
punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable
from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.

do they have crossovers in?

won't one crossover undo the other

or do I have third crossover in the wall

Or doesn't Ethernet crossover at all?

More hassle and extra tools.

That's clear, but is it DIYable with amateur tools?

From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable
because you always need more length than you think.

tlc don't have 15m cable (or anything longer than 10)

starting with 2 gives me the option of converting to 3 later (when I
next want to decorate), by the addition of two sockets, but if I do
that, do I need new cable or can I just cut the plugs off the one that's
there?

One thing - if your man is drilling holes in the wall they need to be a
lot, lot bigger to take a moulded on plug than they do to just take a
cable with no plug on the end.
However if you are happy with that it seems straightforward.

About crossover.
Modern kit detects if this is needed.
Back in the day you had to worry about this, but not in the last {mumble}
years.
Anyway, if I understand correctly you are effectively just running a long
patch cable from your router to your PC, just like you would use a short
patch cable if the two were side by side.
So if you go for that option crossover isn't an issue.


Cheers


Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

In message ,
Tricky Dicky writes
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master
socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is
the obvious solution and rather than using cable with plugs on, use
Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer.

Limited knowledge alert.. don't you need to position your router where
you get best wi-fi transmission? All my visitors seem to expect good
links for their pads and phones!

I have a part used drum of cat6 you can fetch:-)

--
Tim Lamb

On 29/05/2020 18:37, tim... wrote:
Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

Not a good option really - you will get best BB performance with the
router connected to the master socket fitted with a face plate filter.
Preferably without additional extension wiring, or at least with the
bell wire disconnected (and re-created at point of use with a PABX
master socket)

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

Yup cheap and easy.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other.

A more elegant solution, since you can now run the wiring in solid core
CAT5e rather than with a stranded patch lead. Both do the job, but the
solid core is easier to route and dress along the way.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power.Â* This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

CAT5e in either case. Preferably proper copper cable and not Copper Clad
Steel (CCS) or Copper Clad Aluminium (CCA).


I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

Its cheap because, patch leads are dirt cheap at trade(ish) prices, and,
its CCA - so cheap cable. In reality at 10m it will work fine.


OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/catego...xoCuyEQAvD_BwE


looks better, but is mail order only

And still CCA.

Somewhere like :

https://www.comms-express.com/categories/cat5e-rj45-ethernet-cable-patch-leads-cables/?finder=rj45&params=Category|Cat5e,UTP%20/%20FTP|UTP,Length|10mt

Usually only do copper.

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up?Â* How do I

Yup, especially if you get decent quality CAT5e modules. I like these:

https://www.comms-express.com/produc...ttered-module/

They have wire retention that gets a good grip on the strands and hold
the wire in place prior to punch down. They are marked with only the TIA
568 B colours, so they are less confusing to wire and that reduces the
chase of accidentally getting different standards used on each end!

Note they are quite deep, which makes them less fiddly to wire - but you
need the slightly deeper bevel edge frame:

https://www.comms-express.com/produc...late-bevelled/


handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

No need to - router to computer is straight through, and in reality, all
modern kit will auto detect and configure as required anyway.

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

The guideline is normally no tighter than 4x the cable diameter (about 1").

In reality on short runs you can go tighter. Cat5e UTP is quite flexible
and will stay where you put it. STAP, or CAT6 and up, less so.

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of
a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking?Â* Will
I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the
cable too much?

If you fit a reasonable size of trunking, then yup.

Anything else?

If doing socket to socket installs, it always makes sense to install a
pair of cables and double CAT5e modules at each end. That leave options
in the future, is little extra effort, and the materials are cheap.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 29/05/2020 19:59, tim... wrote:


"Tricky Dicky" wrote in message
...
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network

it what I had in the last house

admittedly it was a preinstalled extension, not a dIYed one

it should be connected directly to the BT/OpenreachÂ* master socket
with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the
obvious solution and rather than using cable withÂ* plugs on, use
Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer.

I'm concerned that if I do this I will mess up connecting the cable to
the connections in the socket

You would have to try really hard! Basically eight wires, and the same
number of terminals. Push each wire into the matching colour terminal,
then punch it down. Just make sure you have the tool the right way round
so that it trims off the excess length on the far end of the wire! :-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 29/05/2020 19:48, tim... wrote:

"David" wrote in message

Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.

Yes, but better moulded plugs :-)

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.

my WiFi give me 12 Mbps (when it works properly)

but thinking of upgrading to FTTC

FTTC tops out at 80 Mbps, so your ethernet speed is not going to be a
limiting factor for a single connection.

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router
then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down
tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the
socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.

do they have crossovers in?

No

won't one crossover undo the other

Yes it would - but you don't need crossovers anywhere. Straight through
connection from network card to network switch (i.e. the router) is normal.

(and modern switches have auto Medium Dependent Interfaces anyway - so
will configure themselves to work with either cable)

More hassle and extra tools.

That's clear, but is it DIYable with amateur tools?

It is. And a neater, more reliable and more "professional" job.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

tim... wrote:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap

Because it's copper clad aluminium.

On 29/05/2020 20:44, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message ,
Tricky Dicky writes
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master
socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is
the obvious solution and rather than using cable withÂ* plugs on, use
Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer.

Limited knowledge alert.. don't you need to position your router where
you get best wi-fi transmission? All my visitors seem to expect good
links for their pads and phones!

Yup one of the common conflicts of interest in a "one box does all"
router solution. Often the master socket will be at a far corner of the
building, and the ideal place for a single wifi point right in the
middle of it.

Multiple Wireless Access Points (either wired, or these days "meshing")
can solve that problem nicely.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

tim... wrote:
Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house


If you're made of money, you can fix this by drilling zero holes.

They're called mesh routers. The author of this article,
works at Arstechnica today.

https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...viewed?start=3

(This article is a bit silly. Not all the articles are keepers.)

https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...system-secrets

On some of these kinds of sites, it's better to search them
from Google, than use their local search. Google for

site:smallnetbuilder.com mesh router review

and Google will dig up more examples.

Price-wise, think of it as "buying 3 routers of a special type".
A waste of money, except if money is not an issue.

Sometimes, pulling wire just isn't an option, depending on
what's in the walls.

What you'd want, is backhaul done on 5GHz, leaving 2.4GHz
for "the usual" 802.11N stuff in the computers themselves.
Usually the computer end is behind the times. But 5GHz
doesn't penetrate walls all that well, and if it does both
backhaul and normal communications on 2.4GHz, then things
could be a bit choppy.

There are also repeaters and access points. Perhaps running
an extension cable is easier in the basement, to some
sort of Wifi solution, then "point" the Wifi antenna
towards the first floor. If the device has removable
antennas, you can use a directional antenna to
reach the first floor (that's if your first attempt to
reach the first floor, didn't work). There may be
a solution in three dimensions you can dream up, to
reach an "inaccessible" spot.

There is also power line networking. But that's pretty low
on my list. Spraying 2.4GHz and 5GHz is better, because
those bands are already a write-off from an RF perspective.

Paul

On 29/05/2020 20:26, wrote:
On Friday, 29 May 2020 18:38:15 UTC+1, tim... wrote:
In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs
power. This has to be the last choice option.

The somewhat-lateral approach to that problem is to run the router's power supply over the ethernet cable between the router and a central location.

https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yS3u.png at
https://superuser.com/questions/1311...our-fttp-point

and makes the point it can make it easier to put the router onto a UPS near all the other network equipment.

Or cheat... work out the best place for the comms hub with power,
central location, space for equipment etc, and move the phone master
socket(s) to there!

(What "someone" did here was disconnect the cable between the master
socket and the JB where it terminated after coming to the house via the
drop wire, and routed new cable round the outside of the house, and then
in to where they needed the master socket).



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Tricky Dicky wrote

Do not connect your router/modem to an extension
socket on the phone network it should be connected
directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the
shortest modem lead you can manage.

Thats bull****. There is FAR more copper lead between
the master socket and the exchange or node than there
is to any extension socket.

On Fri, 29 May 2020 21:40:42 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

Or cheat... work out the best place for the comms hub with power,
central location, space for equipment etc, and move the phone master
socket(s) to there!

I was very lucky here. The previous occupants of teh house lived
downstairs, and elderly mother lived upstairs (her daughter had mobility
problems, and she didn't). She had the master phone socket fitted in her
living room (previous large upstairs bedroom), and a cable was run to an
extension downstairs.

This happened to be the room we chose as an office (the other large
bedroom wasn't as convenient, and a bit smaller). The corner where the
master socket was located was already chosen for the equipment rack. So
the router is about 0.5 metres from the master socket.



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Sat, 30 May 2020 06:46:38 +1000, Jake56, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:

FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread

--
"Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed:
"You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad
little ignorant ****."
MID:

On Sat, 30 May 2020 06:46:38 +1000, Jake56 wrote:

Tricky Dicky wrote

Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master
socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage.

Thats bull****. There is FAR more copper lead between the master socket
and the exchange or node than there is to any extension socket.

True. But arguably it it isn't in such an electrically noisy environment.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 29/05/2020 18:37, tim... wrote:
Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

Ethernet over powerline will do quite nicely unless you need really high
speed or have other constraints that prevent it from working.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

Bog standard cat-5 cable will do if you know what you are doing and
don't want to use insanely high speeds over long distances. The faster
you want to go the more exacting the curvature requirements are. You
will need tooling to attach the fitting to the ends of any cables or
alternatively oversized holes in the walls.

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/catego...xoCuyEQAvD_BwE


looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up?Â* How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of
a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking?Â* Will
I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the
cable too much?

Anything else?

My advice would be to try internet over mains first. I do have both
hardwired connections and powerline ethernet in my house. The hardwired
ones are reserved for streaming video and large file transfers the rest
can go on the mains. Amazingly ethernet over mains works for me across
two different ringmains which I was surprised at. Speed is well down on
the headline figure but still way faster than my 5Mbps ADSL 2+.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 30 May 2020 06:46:38 +1000, Jake56 wrote:

Tricky Dicky wrote

Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master
socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage.

Thats bull****. There is FAR more copper lead between the master socket
and the exchange or node than there is to any extension socket.

True. But arguably it it isn't in such an electrically noisy environment.

Its actually in a more electrically noisy environment outside
the house with the traffic ignition noise etc. And it isnt
electrical noise that determines the broadband speed anyway.

On 29/05/2020 23:47, Jake56 wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 30 May 2020 06:46:38 +1000, Jake56 wrote:

Tricky Dicky wrote

Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network it should be connected directly to the BT/OpenreachÂ* master
socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage.

Thats bull****. There is FAR more copper lead between the master socket
and the exchange or node than there is to any extension socket.

True. But arguably it it isn't in such an electrically noisy environment.

Its actually in a more electrically noisy environment outside
the house with the traffic ignition noise etc. And it isnt
electrical noise that determines the broadband speed anyway.


actually it largely is...all te other broadband users on the same cable
run will produce more noise than the radio stations do in total



--
"I guess a rattlesnake ain't risponsible fer bein' a rattlesnake, but ah
puts mah heel on um jess the same if'n I catches him around mah chillun".

I'd not use mains plug internet adaptors, they create massive radio noise
locally and with some appliances plugged in can be pretty poor at actually
doing what they are supposed to.
What about this new Mesh system I keep reading about? Is it any good?

Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Andrew" wrote in message
...
On 29/05/2020 19:22, David wrote:
On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:

Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php?
terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k-
BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of
a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will
I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the
cable too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work
for option (2).
If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable
through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy
option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres.
Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router
then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down
tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the
socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.
More hassle and extra tools.

From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable
because you always need more length than you think.


Cheers


Dave R




A hardwired CAT5e link with wall mounted sockets is the best 'permanent'
solution, but you don't need punchdown tools. Some CAT5e socket modules
just have a press-on cover plate that pushes all 8 wires in in one go.

There are those plug-in things that carry ethernet over mains wiring for
a quick fix. Lifetime before failure ? - variable.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
On 29/05/2020 23:47, Jake56 wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 30 May 2020 06:46:38 +1000, Jake56 wrote:

Tricky Dicky wrote

Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master
socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage.

Thats bull****. There is FAR more copper lead between the master
socket
and the exchange or node than there is to any extension socket.

True. But arguably it it isn't in such an electrically noisy
environment.

Its actually in a more electrically noisy environment outside
the house with the traffic ignition noise etc. And it isnt
electrical noise that determines the broadband speed anyway.


actually it largely is...all te other broadband users on the same cable
run will produce more noise than the radio stations do in total

But the cable is twisted pairs and its not radio stations,
it the ignitions in the traffic thats much worse than
any electrical noise inside the house.

And the speed you get with broadband isnt determined
by the noise level anyway, its determined by the length
of the run of copper pairs in the street cable.


--
"I guess a rattlesnake ain't risponsible fer bein' a rattlesnake, but ah
puts mah heel on um jess the same if'n I catches him around mah chillun".

Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote

I'd not use mains plug internet adaptors, they create massive radio noise
locally and with some appliances plugged in can be pretty poor at actually
doing what they are supposed to.

What about this new Mesh system I keep reading about? Is it any good?

Yep, works well but not that cheap.

"Andrew" wrote in message
...
On 29/05/2020 19:22, David wrote:
On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:

Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble
with
my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php?
terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k-
BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side
of
a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking?
Will
I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the
cable too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work
for option (2).
If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable
through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy
option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres.
Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router
then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down
tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the
socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.
More hassle and extra tools.

From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable
because you always need more length than you think.


Cheers


Dave R




A hardwired CAT5e link with wall mounted sockets is the best 'permanent'
solution, but you don't need punchdown tools. Some CAT5e socket modules
just have a press-on cover plate that pushes all 8 wires in in one go.

There are those plug-in things that carry ethernet over mains wiring for
a quick fix. Lifetime before failure ? - variable.

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 29 May 2020 18:38:15 UTC+1, tim... wrote:
3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another
one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the
other.
If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle
Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

You don't, that's handled by Ethernet - and most adapters now handle
crossovers if they occur inadvertently.

ok



I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable
Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of
a
wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I
have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable
too much?

Probably not.

probably not, what?



Don't use CCA / aluminium cable.

I had no intention of doing so

tim

"David" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 May 2020 19:48:47 +0100, tim... wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:

Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble
with my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php?

terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k-
BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side
of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking?
Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending
the cable too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work
for option (2).

yes

I know

If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable
through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an
easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres.

I'm having a man drill holes through the walls.

It only needs to go up one wall

along two ceilings (hall/bedroom)

and back down the wall again


Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.

Yes, but better moulded plugs :-)

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.

my WiFi give me 12 Mbps (when it works properly)

but thinking of upgrading to FTTC

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the
router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a
punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable
from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.

do they have crossovers in?

won't one crossover undo the other

or do I have third crossover in the wall

Or doesn't Ethernet crossover at all?

More hassle and extra tools.

That's clear, but is it DIYable with amateur tools?

From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable
because you always need more length than you think.

tlc don't have 15m cable (or anything longer than 10)

starting with 2 gives me the option of converting to 3 later (when I
next want to decorate), by the addition of two sockets, but if I do
that, do I need new cable or can I just cut the plugs off the one that's
there?

One thing - if your man is drilling holes in the wall they need to be a
lot, lot bigger to take a moulded on plug than they do to just take a
cable with no plug on the end.
However if you are happy with that it seems straightforward.

About crossover.
Modern kit detects if this is needed.
Back in the day you had to worry about this, but not in the last {mumble}
years.
Anyway, if I understand correctly you are effectively just running a long
patch cable from your router to your PC, just like you would use a short
patch cable if the two were side by side.

That's the default solution

but ideally I'd like proper sockets on the wall instead

tim

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message , Tricky
Dicky writes
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket
with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious
solution and rather than using cable with plugs on, use Cat5e cable and
two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer.

Limited knowledge alert.. don't you need to position your router where you
get best wi-fi transmission?

my router is where it is, by the phone socket in the hallway

All my visitors seem to expect good links for their pads and phones!

all visitors to my property get what they get

I think you can surmise I don't have too many visitors for which wifi
connection is a big issue

I have a part used drum of cat6 you can fetch:-)

unless you are very near, collecting it would cost more than buying new

thanks

tim

On Sat, 30 May 2020 06:46:38 +1000, Jake56 wrote:
Tricky Dicky wrote
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone
network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master
socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage.

Thats bull****. There is FAR more copper lead between the master socket
and the exchange or node than there is to any extension socket.

There's some truth, but it's oversimplified. The phone line is a twisted
pair, which resists interference. The master socket splits out a bell
wire (which isn't needed by most modern phones, but older ones need it).
This means that the line is no longer balanced, you have three wires not
two. If you use a plug-in extension, or follow the standard BT extension
plan, you'll extend this unbalanced line which can pick up interference.
Also a lot of "extension" cable you can buy in the DIY shops is poor
quality - and extension cables are often flat with no twist.

The correct way to do things is fit a filter at the master socket -
something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231901235940 if you've got
a square NTE5A or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323768321976 for the
new NTE5C. Take a dedicated extension to the router, using only one pair
and proper CW1308 copper (not CCA) cable. Take all the phones from the
filtered terminals using a separate cable. The router lead does want to
be as short as possible, as these usually aren't twisted, though if you
can find a twisted-pair RJ11 lead the length shouldn't matter.

Done like this you should see no drop in speed. Theoretically there's
some, due to the extra length and impedance discontinuity at the master
socket, but it's tiny compared with the line itself. On the other hand,
use a 20m tinsel-wire flat cable to extend your line, and you may well
see a substantial drop in speed.

Mike

On 30/05/2020 08:15, Jake56 wrote:
actually it largely is...all te other broadband users on the same
cable run will produce more noise than the radio stations do in total

But the cable is twisted pairs and its not radio stations,
it the ignitions in the traffic thats much worse than
any electrical noise inside the house.

It being twisted will affect any noise it is subject to. It doesn't
apopoly soleley to i=gnition noise.


And the speed you get with broadband isnt determined
by the noise level anyway, its determined by the length
of the run of copper pairs in the street cable.

Precisely. The longer the run the more pickup from adjacent cables and
from radio stations.

As well as the weaker the wanted signal.

You seem to be rather weak on the theory of radio. I suggest you study
the implications of near versus far field signals on twisted pair
transmission lines, and the choice of ADSL bins versus the signal
strength of the few remaining AM radio stations as well as the variation
of recieved noise level with the time of day.

Then a short diversions into interference suppression on modern cars
equipped with - yes - AM radios as well, still - should disabuses you
of any notion that you actually know what you are talking about.

--
You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a
kind word alone.

Al Capone

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
On 29/05/2020 18:37, tim... wrote:
Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that
room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

Not a good option really - you will get best BB performance with the
router connected to the master socket fitted with a face plate filter.
Preferably without additional extension wiring, or at least with the bell
wire disconnected (and re-created at point of use with a PABX master
socket)

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

Yup cheap and easy.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another
one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the
other.

A more elegant solution, since you can now run the wiring in solid core
CAT5e rather than with a stranded patch lead. Both do the job, but the
solid core is easier to route and dress along the way.

I'm hiding it in plastic trucking (having only recently decorated I'm not
chasing walls and redecorating today)

it will look exactly the same, whatever is inside

it's only the flying ends that will look different

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in
trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

CAT5e in either case. Preferably proper copper cable and not Copper Clad
Steel (CCS) or Copper Clad Aluminium (CCA).

will they go round my 90 degree bends?

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

Its cheap because, patch leads are dirt cheap at trade(ish) prices,

that not how pricing of sat cables works, least not last time I looked

and, its CCA - so cheap cable.

being cheap is good, if it works

In reality at 10m it will work fine.

ok



https://www.comms-express.com/categories/cat5e-rj45-ethernet-cable-patch-leads-cables/?finder=rj45&params=Category|Cat5e,UTP%20/%20FTP|UTP,Length|10mt

Usually only do copper.

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I

Yup, especially if you get decent quality CAT5e modules. I like these:

https://www.comms-express.com/produc...ttered-module/

so I need the tool to push the wires in



They have wire retention that gets a good grip on the strands and hold the
wire in place prior to punch down. They are marked with only the TIA 568 B
colours, so they are less confusing to wire and that reduces the chase of
accidentally getting different standards used on each end!

Note they are quite deep, which makes them less fiddly to wire - but you
need the slightly deeper bevel edge frame:

https://www.comms-express.com/produc...late-bevelled/


handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

No need to - router to computer is straight through, and in reality, all
modern kit will auto detect and configure as required anyway.

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

The guideline is normally no tighter than 4x the cable diameter (about
1").

1" diameter , radius, something else?

thanks

tim

"Paul" wrote in message
...
tim... wrote:
Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with
my wireless connections in the house


If you're made of money, you can fix this by drilling zero holes.

They're called mesh routers.

that's already been suggested elsewhere

but it isn't a no-mess solution, because they presumably need power

and (like most houses) I don't have power sockets at ceiling height

tim

On Sat, 30 May 2020 08:47:55 +1000, Jake56, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:

FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread

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"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:

On Sat, 30 May 2020 17:15:49 +1000, Jake56, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:

FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread

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and totally irresponsible talk. Your mouth could get you into a lot of
trouble."
Message-ID:

On Sat, 30 May 2020 17:17:36 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread

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cretin's pathological trolling:
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On Sat, 30 May 2020 08:54:19 +0100, tim... wrote:

and, its CCA - so cheap cable.

being cheap is good, if it works

I'd a void both CCS and CCA. Our telephone line is ali, highly
unreliable, as the ali keeps fracturing in the IDC "jelly bean"
conectors. Spark installed some CCS "CW1308" (interior telephone
cable) from the master socket to router position, about 10 yards of
cable. Using that made a dramatic reduction in ADSL rate. Fortunately
I'd also specced a couple of (copper) Cat5e's as well, using one of
them no problem.

--
Cheers
Dave.