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#1
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Installing Ethernet cables
Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my
wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/catego...xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Anything else? Ta Tim |
#2
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Installing Ethernet cables
On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:
Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php? terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k- BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Anything else? Ta Tim You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work for option (2). If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres. Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends. Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second. If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router. More hassle and extra tools. From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable because you always need more length than you think. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#3
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 29/05/2020 19:22, David wrote:
On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote: Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php? terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k- BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Anything else? Ta Tim You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work for option (2). If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres. Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends. Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second. If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router. More hassle and extra tools. From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable because you always need more length than you think. Cheers Dave R A hardwired CAT5e link with wall mounted sockets is the best 'permanent' solution, but you don't need punchdown tools. Some CAT5e socket modules just have a press-on cover plate that pushes all 8 wires in in one go. There are those plug-in things that carry ethernet over mains wiring for a quick fix. Lifetime before failure ? - variable. |
#4
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Installing Ethernet cables
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious solution and rather than using cable with plugs on, use Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer.
Richard |
#5
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Installing Ethernet cables
"Tricky Dicky" wrote in message ... Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it what I had in the last house admittedly it was a preinstalled extension, not a dIYed one it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious solution and rather than using cable with plugs on, use Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer. I'm concerned that if I do this I will mess up connecting the cable to the connections in the socket tim |
#6
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 29/05/2020 19:59, tim... wrote:
"Tricky Dicky" wrote in message ... Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it what I had in the last house admittedly it was a preinstalled extension, not a dIYed one it should be connected directly to the BT/OpenreachÂ* master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious solution and rather than using cable withÂ* plugs on, use Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer. I'm concerned that if I do this I will mess up connecting the cable to the connections in the socket You would have to try really hard! Basically eight wires, and the same number of terminals. Push each wire into the matching colour terminal, then punch it down. Just make sure you have the tool the right way round so that it trims off the excess length on the far end of the wire! :-) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#7
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 29/05/2020 19:44, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious solution and rather than using cable with plugs on, use Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer. That is rubbish. I tried an experiment and adding 30m of decent cable to my ADSL circuit. It was only borderline detectable with 0.1dB loss some of which was almost certainly the extra inline connectors. No difference in sync speed at all. That said I wouldn't recommend running a long phone extension and split it near the modem. The way mine is done is to split it at the master socket and then run ADSL only down from the loft to my office and POTS on the other circuit. You don't want to encourage extra interference. For reasons best known to themselves BT thought it would be fun to put my master socket in the loft on the front wall brickwork. This means a bit of a trek and faffing about whenever there is a reportable line fault. No mains in the loft so plugging a modem into the master socket requires a fair bit of effort moving things into position. Belgacom in Belgium were worse - they installed my ISDN service as a feature artwork in the dining room with a myriad of blinking LEDs. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
#8
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Installing Ethernet cables
In message ,
Tricky Dicky writes Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious solution and rather than using cable with plugs on, use Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer. Limited knowledge alert.. don't you need to position your router where you get best wi-fi transmission? All my visitors seem to expect good links for their pads and phones! I have a part used drum of cat6 you can fetch:-) -- Tim Lamb |
#9
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 29/05/2020 20:44, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Tricky Dicky writes Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious solution and rather than using cable withÂ* plugs on, use Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer. Limited knowledge alert.. don't you need to position your router where you get best wi-fi transmission? All my visitors seem to expect good links for their pads and phones! Yup one of the common conflicts of interest in a "one box does all" router solution. Often the master socket will be at a far corner of the building, and the ideal place for a single wifi point right in the middle of it. Multiple Wireless Access Points (either wired, or these days "meshing") can solve that problem nicely. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#10
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Installing Ethernet cables
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message ... In message , Tricky Dicky writes Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Option 3 to me is the obvious solution and rather than using cable with plugs on, use Cat5e cable and two sockets with fly leads to the router and computer. Limited knowledge alert.. don't you need to position your router where you get best wi-fi transmission? my router is where it is, by the phone socket in the hallway All my visitors seem to expect good links for their pads and phones! all visitors to my property get what they get I think you can surmise I don't have too many visitors for which wifi connection is a big issue I have a part used drum of cat6 you can fetch:-) unless you are very near, collecting it would cost more than buying new thanks tim |
#11
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Installing Ethernet cables
Tricky Dicky wrote
Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Thats bull****. There is FAR more copper lead between the master socket and the exchange or node than there is to any extension socket. |
#12
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More Heavy Trolling by Senile Nym-Shifting Rodent Speed!
On Sat, 30 May 2020 06:46:38 +1000, Jake56, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote: FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread -- "Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed: "You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad little ignorant ****." MID: |
#13
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Installing Ethernet cables
On Sat, 30 May 2020 06:46:38 +1000, Jake56 wrote:
Tricky Dicky wrote Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Thats bull****. There is FAR more copper lead between the master socket and the exchange or node than there is to any extension socket. True. But arguably it it isn't in such an electrically noisy environment. -- My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message. Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org *lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor |
#14
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Installing Ethernet cables
On Sat, 30 May 2020 06:46:38 +1000, Jake56 wrote:
Tricky Dicky wrote Do not connect your router/modem to an extension socket on the phone network it should be connected directly to the BT/Openreach master socket with the shortest modem lead you can manage. Thats bull****. There is FAR more copper lead between the master socket and the exchange or node than there is to any extension socket. There's some truth, but it's oversimplified. The phone line is a twisted pair, which resists interference. The master socket splits out a bell wire (which isn't needed by most modern phones, but older ones need it). This means that the line is no longer balanced, you have three wires not two. If you use a plug-in extension, or follow the standard BT extension plan, you'll extend this unbalanced line which can pick up interference. Also a lot of "extension" cable you can buy in the DIY shops is poor quality - and extension cables are often flat with no twist. The correct way to do things is fit a filter at the master socket - something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231901235940 if you've got a square NTE5A or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323768321976 for the new NTE5C. Take a dedicated extension to the router, using only one pair and proper CW1308 copper (not CCA) cable. Take all the phones from the filtered terminals using a separate cable. The router lead does want to be as short as possible, as these usually aren't twisted, though if you can find a twisted-pair RJ11 lead the length shouldn't matter. Done like this you should see no drop in speed. Theoretically there's some, due to the extra length and impedance discontinuity at the master socket, but it's tiny compared with the line itself. On the other hand, use a 20m tinsel-wire flat cable to extend your line, and you may well see a substantial drop in speed. Mike |
#15
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Installing Ethernet cables
"Andrew" wrote in message ... On 29/05/2020 19:22, David wrote: On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote: Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php? terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k- BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Anything else? Ta Tim You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work for option (2). If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres. Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends. Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second. If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router. More hassle and extra tools. From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable because you always need more length than you think. Cheers Dave R A hardwired CAT5e link with wall mounted sockets is the best 'permanent' solution, but you don't need punchdown tools. Some CAT5e socket modules just have a press-on cover plate that pushes all 8 wires in in one go. that sounds a weird solution starting with a circular cable? There are those plug-in things that carry ethernet over mains wiring for a quick fix. Lifetime before failure ? - variable. I'm going to end up a with Christmas tree of plugs in the hallway, I don't think this will be a good solution I'm also not sure that hall and bedroom are on the same ring (yes I know that I could test by turning it off at the CU) The man's coming next week to do other work. It wont cost me any more for him to drill a couple of holes and fix some trucking as I pay him a day rate and don't have enough other work. so 5 pounds of cable and 10 pounds for trunking is the cheapest solution |
#16
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 29/05/2020 19:55, tim... wrote:
"Andrew" wrote in message ... On 29/05/2020 19:22, David wrote: On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote: Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power.Â* This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php? terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k- BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up?Â* How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Anything else? Ta Tim You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work for option (2). If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres. Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends. Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second. If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router. More hassle and extra tools. Â*From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable because you always need more length than you think. Cheers Dave R A hardwired CAT5e link with wall mounted sockets is the best 'permanent' solution, but you don't need punchdown tools. Some CAT5e socket modules just have a press-on cover plate that pushes all 8 wires in in one go. that sounds a weird solution starting with a circular cable? Not really. You cut back the sheath in the normal way, locate each of the coloured wires over the correct connector then press the backplate on and it will simultaneously punch down and clamp all 8 wires. No need for a punchdown tool. There are those plug-in things that carry ethernet over mains wiring for a quick fix. Lifetime before failure ? - variable. I'm going to end up a with Christmas tree of plugs in the hallway,Â* I don't think this will be a good solution I'm also not sure that hall and bedroom are on the same ring (yes I know that I could test by turning it off at the CU) The man's coming next week to do other work.Â* It wont cost me any more for him to drill a couple of holes and fix some trucking as I pay him a day rate and don't have enough other work. so 5 pounds of cable and 10 pounds for trunking is the cheapest solution |
#18
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Installing Ethernet cables
Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote
I'd not use mains plug internet adaptors, they create massive radio noise locally and with some appliances plugged in can be pretty poor at actually doing what they are supposed to. What about this new Mesh system I keep reading about? Is it any good? Yep, works well but not that cheap. "Andrew" wrote in message ... On 29/05/2020 19:22, David wrote: On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote: Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php? terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k- BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Anything else? Ta Tim You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work for option (2). If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres. Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends. Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second. If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router. More hassle and extra tools. From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable because you always need more length than you think. Cheers Dave R A hardwired CAT5e link with wall mounted sockets is the best 'permanent' solution, but you don't need punchdown tools. Some CAT5e socket modules just have a press-on cover plate that pushes all 8 wires in in one go. There are those plug-in things that carry ethernet over mains wiring for a quick fix. Lifetime before failure ? - variable. |
#19
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Lonely Cantankerous Auto-contradicting Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL
On Sat, 30 May 2020 17:17:36 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread -- Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 86-year-old senile Australian cretin's pathological trolling: https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/ |
#20
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Installing Ethernet cables
"David" wrote in message ... On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote: Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php? terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k- BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Anything else? Ta Tim You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work for option (2). yes I know If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres. I'm having a man drill holes through the walls. It only needs to go up one wall along two ceilings (hall/bedroom) and back down the wall again Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends. Yes, but better moulded plugs :-) Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second. my WiFi give me 12 Mbps (when it works properly) but thinking of upgrading to FTTC If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router. do they have crossovers in? won't one crossover undo the other or do I have third crossover in the wall Or doesn't Ethernet crossover at all? More hassle and extra tools. That's clear, but is it DIYable with amateur tools? From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable because you always need more length than you think. tlc don't have 15m cable (or anything longer than 10) starting with 2 gives me the option of converting to 3 later (when I next want to decorate), by the addition of two sockets, but if I do that, do I need new cable or can I just cut the plugs off the one that's there? |
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Installing Ethernet cables
On Fri, 29 May 2020 19:48:47 +0100, tim... wrote:
"David" wrote in message ... On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote: Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php? terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k- BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Anything else? Ta Tim You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work for option (2). yes I know If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres. I'm having a man drill holes through the walls. It only needs to go up one wall along two ceilings (hall/bedroom) and back down the wall again Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends. Yes, but better moulded plugs :-) Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second. my WiFi give me 12 Mbps (when it works properly) but thinking of upgrading to FTTC If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router. do they have crossovers in? won't one crossover undo the other or do I have third crossover in the wall Or doesn't Ethernet crossover at all? More hassle and extra tools. That's clear, but is it DIYable with amateur tools? From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable because you always need more length than you think. tlc don't have 15m cable (or anything longer than 10) starting with 2 gives me the option of converting to 3 later (when I next want to decorate), by the addition of two sockets, but if I do that, do I need new cable or can I just cut the plugs off the one that's there? One thing - if your man is drilling holes in the wall they need to be a lot, lot bigger to take a moulded on plug than they do to just take a cable with no plug on the end. However if you are happy with that it seems straightforward. About crossover. Modern kit detects if this is needed. Back in the day you had to worry about this, but not in the last {mumble} years. Anyway, if I understand correctly you are effectively just running a long patch cable from your router to your PC, just like you would use a short patch cable if the two were side by side. So if you go for that option crossover isn't an issue. Cheers Dave R -- AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64 -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
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Installing Ethernet cables
"David" wrote in message ... On Fri, 29 May 2020 19:48:47 +0100, tim... wrote: "David" wrote in message ... On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote: Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php? terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k- BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Anything else? Ta Tim You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work for option (2). yes I know If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres. I'm having a man drill holes through the walls. It only needs to go up one wall along two ceilings (hall/bedroom) and back down the wall again Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends. Yes, but better moulded plugs :-) Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second. my WiFi give me 12 Mbps (when it works properly) but thinking of upgrading to FTTC If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router. do they have crossovers in? won't one crossover undo the other or do I have third crossover in the wall Or doesn't Ethernet crossover at all? More hassle and extra tools. That's clear, but is it DIYable with amateur tools? From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable because you always need more length than you think. tlc don't have 15m cable (or anything longer than 10) starting with 2 gives me the option of converting to 3 later (when I next want to decorate), by the addition of two sockets, but if I do that, do I need new cable or can I just cut the plugs off the one that's there? One thing - if your man is drilling holes in the wall they need to be a lot, lot bigger to take a moulded on plug than they do to just take a cable with no plug on the end. However if you are happy with that it seems straightforward. About crossover. Modern kit detects if this is needed. Back in the day you had to worry about this, but not in the last {mumble} years. Anyway, if I understand correctly you are effectively just running a long patch cable from your router to your PC, just like you would use a short patch cable if the two were side by side. That's the default solution but ideally I'd like proper sockets on the wall instead tim |
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 29/05/2020 19:48, tim... wrote:
"David" wrote in message Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends. Yes, but better moulded plugs :-) Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second. my WiFi give me 12 Mbps (when it works properly) but thinking of upgrading to FTTC FTTC tops out at 80 Mbps, so your ethernet speed is not going to be a limiting factor for a single connection. If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router. do they have crossovers in? No won't one crossover undo the other Yes it would - but you don't need crossovers anywhere. Straight through connection from network card to network switch (i.e. the router) is normal. (and modern switches have auto Medium Dependent Interfaces anyway - so will configure themselves to work with either cable) More hassle and extra tools. That's clear, but is it DIYable with amateur tools? It is. And a neater, more reliable and more "professional" job. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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Installing Ethernet cables
On Friday, 29 May 2020 18:38:15 UTC+1, tim... wrote:
In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. The somewhat-lateral approach to that problem is to run the router's power supply over the ethernet cable between the router and a central location. https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yS3u.png at https://superuser.com/questions/1311...our-fttp-point and makes the point it can make it easier to put the router onto a UPS near all the other network equipment. Owain |
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 29/05/2020 20:26, wrote:
On Friday, 29 May 2020 18:38:15 UTC+1, tim... wrote: In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. The somewhat-lateral approach to that problem is to run the router's power supply over the ethernet cable between the router and a central location. https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yS3u.png at https://superuser.com/questions/1311...our-fttp-point and makes the point it can make it easier to put the router onto a UPS near all the other network equipment. Or cheat... work out the best place for the comms hub with power, central location, space for equipment etc, and move the phone master socket(s) to there! (What "someone" did here was disconnect the cable between the master socket and the JB where it terminated after coming to the house via the drop wire, and routed new cable round the outside of the house, and then in to where they needed the master socket). -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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Installing Ethernet cables
On Fri, 29 May 2020 21:40:42 +0100, John Rumm wrote:
Or cheat... work out the best place for the comms hub with power, central location, space for equipment etc, and move the phone master socket(s) to there! I was very lucky here. The previous occupants of teh house lived downstairs, and elderly mother lived upstairs (her daughter had mobility problems, and she didn't). She had the master phone socket fitted in her living room (previous large upstairs bedroom), and a cable was run to an extension downstairs. This happened to be the room we chose as an office (the other large bedroom wasn't as convenient, and a bit smaller). The corner where the master socket was located was already chosen for the equipment rack. So the router is about 0.5 metres from the master socket. -- My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message. Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org *lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor |
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Installing Ethernet cables
wrote:
On Friday, 29 May 2020 18:38:15 UTC+1, tim... wrote: In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. The somewhat-lateral approach to that problem is to run the router's power supply over the ethernet cable between the router and a central location. https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yS3u.png at https://superuser.com/questions/1311...our-fttp-point and makes the point it can make it easier to put the router onto a UPS near all the other network equipment. There's also fairly minimalist PoE extractors for 12V kit, which routers often a https://www.amazon.co.uk/DSLRKIT-Act.../dp/B01H37XNHE (also 5V versions) and if you don't have a proper PoE injector you can just plug in the router's PSU via a passive PoE injector/splitter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/HSeaMall-Pa.../dp/B076LWCLN2 Theo |
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 30 May 2020 14:51:11 +0100 (BST), Theo wrote:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DSLRKIT-Act...t-IEEE802-3at/ dp/B01H37XNHE Reviews suggest that it's only capable for 12 W rather than the claimd 24 W... and if you don't have a proper PoE injector you can just plug in the router's PSU via a passive PoE injector/splitter: I'd avoid passive PoE. When chasing down a fault or patching issue it's far to easy to put something on the end of the live cable that objects and lets the magic smoke out. -- Cheers Dave. |
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Installing Ethernet cables
On Friday, 29 May 2020 18:38:15 UTC+1, tim... wrote:
3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) You don't, that's handled by Ethernet - and most adapters now handle crossovers if they occur inadvertently. I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Probably not. Don't use CCA / aluminium cable. Owain |
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Installing Ethernet cables
wrote in message ... On Friday, 29 May 2020 18:38:15 UTC+1, tim... wrote: 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) You don't, that's handled by Ethernet - and most adapters now handle crossovers if they occur inadvertently. ok I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking? Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? Probably not. probably not, what? Don't use CCA / aluminium cable. I had no intention of doing so tim |
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 29/05/2020 18:37, tim... wrote:
Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer Not a good option really - you will get best BB performance with the router connected to the master socket fitted with a face plate filter. Preferably without additional extension wiring, or at least with the bell wire disconnected (and re-created at point of use with a PABX master socket) 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. Yup cheap and easy. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. A more elegant solution, since you can now run the wiring in solid core CAT5e rather than with a stranded patch lead. Both do the job, but the solid core is easier to route and dress along the way. In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power.Â* This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres CAT5e in either case. Preferably proper copper cable and not Copper Clad Steel (CCS) or Copper Clad Aluminium (CCA). I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect Its cheap because, patch leads are dirt cheap at trade(ish) prices, and, its CCA - so cheap cable. In reality at 10m it will work fine. OTOH http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/catego...xoCuyEQAvD_BwE looks better, but is mail order only And still CCA. Somewhere like : https://www.comms-express.com/categories/cat5e-rj45-ethernet-cable-patch-leads-cables/?finder=rj45¶ms=Category|Cat5e,UTP%20/%20FTP|UTP,Length|10mt Usually only do copper. If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up?Â* How do I Yup, especially if you get decent quality CAT5e modules. I like these: https://www.comms-express.com/produc...ttered-module/ They have wire retention that gets a good grip on the strands and hold the wire in place prior to punch down. They are marked with only the TIA 568 B colours, so they are less confusing to wire and that reduces the chase of accidentally getting different standards used on each end! Note they are quite deep, which makes them less fiddly to wire - but you need the slightly deeper bevel edge frame: https://www.comms-express.com/produc...late-bevelled/ handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) No need to - router to computer is straight through, and in reality, all modern kit will auto detect and configure as required anyway. I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable The guideline is normally no tighter than 4x the cable diameter (about 1"). In reality on short runs you can go tighter. Cat5e UTP is quite flexible and will stay where you put it. STAP, or CAT6 and up, less so. Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking?Â* Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending the cable too much? If you fit a reasonable size of trunking, then yup. Anything else? If doing socket to socket installs, it always makes sense to install a pair of cables and double CAT5e modules at each end. That leave options in the future, is little extra effort, and the materials are cheap. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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Installing Ethernet cables
"John Rumm" wrote in message ... On 29/05/2020 18:37, tim... wrote: Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble with my wireless connections in the house So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office the distance of cable required is 8-10m I have (I think) three choices: 1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer Not a good option really - you will get best BB performance with the router connected to the master socket fitted with a face plate filter. Preferably without additional extension wiring, or at least with the bell wire disconnected (and re-created at point of use with a PABX master socket) 2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms. Yup cheap and easy. 3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer into the other. A more elegant solution, since you can now run the wiring in solid core CAT5e rather than with a stranded patch lead. Both do the job, but the solid core is easier to route and dress along the way. I'm hiding it in plastic trucking (having only recently decorated I'm not chasing walls and redecorating today) it will look exactly the same, whatever is inside it's only the flying ends that will look different In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably in trunking. In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router needs power. This has to be the last choice option. So, what are the pros and cons of each of these? Specifically, 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres CAT5e in either case. Preferably proper copper cable and not Copper Clad Steel (CCS) or Copper Clad Aluminium (CCA). will they go round my 90 degree bends? I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect Its cheap because, patch leads are dirt cheap at trade(ish) prices, that not how pricing of sat cables works, least not last time I looked and, its CCA - so cheap cable. being cheap is good, if it works In reality at 10m it will work fine. ok https://www.comms-express.com/categories/cat5e-rj45-ethernet-cable-patch-leads-cables/?finder=rj45¶ms=Category|Cat5e,UTP%20/%20FTP|UTP,Length|10mt Usually only do copper. If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I Yup, especially if you get decent quality CAT5e modules. I like these: https://www.comms-express.com/produc...ttered-module/ so I need the tool to push the wires in They have wire retention that gets a good grip on the strands and hold the wire in place prior to punch down. They are marked with only the TIA 568 B colours, so they are less confusing to wire and that reduces the chase of accidentally getting different standards used on each end! Note they are quite deep, which makes them less fiddly to wire - but you need the slightly deeper bevel edge frame: https://www.comms-express.com/produc...late-bevelled/ handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?) No need to - router to computer is straight through, and in reality, all modern kit will auto detect and configure as required anyway. I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable The guideline is normally no tighter than 4x the cable diameter (about 1"). 1" diameter , radius, something else? thanks tim |
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On Sat, 30 May 2020 08:54:19 +0100, tim... wrote:
and, its CCA - so cheap cable. being cheap is good, if it works I'd a void both CCS and CCA. Our telephone line is ali, highly unreliable, as the ali keeps fracturing in the IDC "jelly bean" conectors. Spark installed some CCS "CW1308" (interior telephone cable) from the master socket to router position, about 10 yards of cable. Using that made a dramatic reduction in ADSL rate. Fortunately I'd also specced a couple of (copper) Cat5e's as well, using one of them no problem. -- Cheers Dave. |
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 30/05/2020 08:54, tim... wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message A more elegant solution, since you can now run the wiring in solid core CAT5e rather than with a stranded patch lead. Both do the job, but the solid core is easier to route and dress along the way. I'm hiding it in plastic trucking (having only recently decorated I'm not chasing walls and redecorating today) it will look exactly the same, whatever is inside it's only the flying ends that will look different Wait until you have tried stuffing it in the trunking :-) (the solid core is still generally easier to work with than stranded). 1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres CAT5e in either case. Preferably proper copper cable and not Copper Clad Steel (CCS) or Copper Clad Aluminium (CCA). will they go round my 90 degree bends? Yes - although go for a decent size like 25x16 rather than the 16x16 and it gets easier (and looks somewhat better IMHO) (having said that - if you have a cable stapler, then a single CAT5 wire is fairly unobtrusive if clipped direct) I have found this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect Its cheap because, patch leads are dirt cheap at trade(ish) prices, that not how pricing of sat cables works, least not last time I looked With network stuff I find if you buy patch cables at retail you may well have to pay several quid even for short leads. Compa https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/comput...pid=display~RR With: https://www.comms-express.com/produc.../?5~Metre?Blue and, its CCA - so cheap cable. being cheap is good, if it works Well that is the if... much also depends on how you define "works". Yes they may well get a signal down them, however its doubtful if they actually meet the ethernet cable specs. So you can find that on the ends of longer networks you start getting unreliable performance. The s/n headroom may be lower. They may fail sooner with repeated handling. So personally I never use CC cable, since the cost saving is not worth being called back to a customer to fix something later, which results in far more expense and hassle. However in the home on a short segment, it will be fine. In reality at 10m it will work fine. ok (I would still opt to pay a similar price for copper from a different vendor) https://www.comms-express.com/categories/cat5e-rj45-ethernet-cable-patch-leads-cables/?finder=rj45¶ms=Category|Cat5e,UTP%20/%20FTP|UTP,Length|10mt Usually only do copper. If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up?Â* How do I Yup, especially if you get decent quality CAT5e modules. I like these: https://www.comms-express.com/produc...ttered-module/ so I need the tool to push the wires in Yup, known in the industry as a "Krone" tool (named after the original manufacturer). e.g: https://www.comms-express.com/produc...nch-down-tool/ (cheaper ones are available, although I tend to find the trimmer actually works first time most of the time on the slightly better examples). So to do the whole job, fix your back box to the wall, and take the cables into it. You can fit the modular faceplate now or later. Leave yourself ~5" of cable to work with. Strip 40mm or so of insulation off the cable, and cable tie the sheath onto the CAT5 module. position the wires in the terminals - only untwisting as much as necessary to do so. You manually push the wire into the outer jaws of the terminal - they are (if well made) designed to allow that fairly easily, and keep a grip on the wire until punch down. The tool is then positioned in the terminal, and with a single click effect push, the blades drive the wire into the IDC terminal blades, and the scissor section on the end trims off any overhang. If that all looks good the wire can be folder into the backbox avoiding sharp bends, and click the module into the face plate. I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable The guideline is normally no tighter than 4x the cable diameter (about 1"). 1" diameter , radius, something else? Bending radius... In reality for simple runs you will get away with say the radius of a pound coin. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#35
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 29 May 2020 at 20:48:58 BST, "John Rumm"
wrote: On 29/05/2020 18:37, tim... wrote: snip Anything else? If doing socket to socket installs, it always makes sense to install a pair of cables and double CAT5e modules at each end. That leave options in the future, is little extra effort, and the materials are cheap. It's one of things I'd sort of wished I'd done when I had the opportunity. However, in the event, in situations where I've needed more than 1 (computer, TV), I've needed 4 or 5 - so ended up using a switch. The other thing is run cables/trunking to every room (except the toilet I suppose) - even if you don't terminate them until needed. And they will be needed :-) -- Cheers, Rob |
#36
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Installing Ethernet cables
On Sat, 30 May 2020 12:54:18 +0000, RJH wrote:
On 29 May 2020 at 20:48:58 BST, "John Rumm" wrote: On 29/05/2020 18:37, tim... wrote: snip Anything else? If doing socket to socket installs, it always makes sense to install a pair of cables and double CAT5e modules at each end. That leave options in the future, is little extra effort, and the materials are cheap. It's one of things I'd sort of wished I'd done when I had the opportunity. However, in the event, in situations where I've needed more than 1 (computer, TV), I've needed 4 or 5 - so ended up using a switch. The other thing is run cables/trunking to every room (except the toilet I suppose) - even if you don't terminate them until needed. And they will be needed :-) I put them in every room. Sometimes several. There are 27 sockets altogether. -- My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message. Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org *lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor |
#37
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 30 May 2020 13:04:10 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:
snip The other thing is run cables/trunking to every room (except the toilet I suppose) - even if you don't terminate them until needed. And they will be needed :-) I put them in every room. So did I, it was Cat3 at the time though (and some of it still is). ;-) Sometimes several. I only did 1 / room at the time as I had a room mainly for all that sort of thing (inc my Arcnet and TR stuff). ;-) There are 27 sockets altogether. I have several switches round the house now and most of them are filled with all lights on, inc the main one, a T-P Link 16p Gb jobby. ;-) I put an 8 port Gb switch in daughters flat a while back and that too has all ports filled. Colour LJ, OMV NAS, PS3, her Desktop PC, nieces desktop PC, CCTV box and the Smart TV (+ uplink to the router). Plus the WiFi stuff like phones, tablets and laptops. Even Mum (90) has a smart TV, BR player, two iPads, iPhone, NowTV stick and a Mini PC I keep there. ;-) Cheers, T i m |
#38
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Installing Ethernet cables
On 30/05/2020 13:54, RJH wrote:
On 29 May 2020 at 20:48:58 BST, "John Rumm" wrote: On 29/05/2020 18:37, tim... wrote: snip Anything else? If doing socket to socket installs, it always makes sense to install a pair of cables and double CAT5e modules at each end. That leave options in the future, is little extra effort, and the materials are cheap. It's one of things I'd sort of wished I'd done when I had the opportunity. However, in the event, in situations where I've needed more than 1 (computer, TV), I've needed 4 or 5 - so ended up using a switch. The other thing is run cables/trunking to every room (except the toilet I suppose) - even if you don't terminate them until needed. And they will be needed :-) Yup better to have stuff installed and not required rather than the other way around. I ran out at least a pair to every room, and more in some places - doing pairs on both sides of some rooms. Even then I still need a couple of extra 8 port switches in some places (my office, and behind the TV) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#39
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Installing Ethernet cables
On Sunday, 31 May 2020 00:06:56 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
I ran out at least a pair to every room, and more in some places - doing pairs on both sides of some rooms. Even then I still need a couple of extra 8 port switches in some places (my office, and behind the TV) The problem with relying on ethernet switches is that Cat5+ cable is useful for so many other things too, which don't run on ethernet. Analogue phone lines is the obvious example (I have 5 in the lounge and two in the kitchen) Owain |
#40
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Installing Ethernet cables
In article ,
wrote: On Sunday, 31 May 2020 00:06:56 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote: I ran out at least a pair to every room, and more in some places - doing pairs on both sides of some rooms. Even then I still need a couple of extra 8 port switches in some places (my office, and behind the TV) The problem with relying on ethernet switches is that Cat5+ cable is useful for so many other things too, which don't run on ethernet. Analogue phone lines is the obvious example (I have 5 in the lounge and two in the kitchen) Owain When I wired this house I ran phone cable to every room. Long before internet days. -- *Microsoft broke Volkswagen's record: They only made 21.4 million bugs. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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