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tim... tim... is offline
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Default Installing Ethernet cables



"David" wrote in message
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On Fri, 29 May 2020 19:48:47 +0100, tim... wrote:

"David" wrote in message
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On Fri, 29 May 2020 18:37:05 +0100, tim... wrote:

Some of you may have seen in another place that I am having trouble
with my wireless connections in the house

So I'm thinking about how to add a fixed connection into my office

the distance of cable required is 8-10m

I have (I think) three choices:

1) add a telephone extension into the room, and move the router into
that room and plug the Ethernet directly into the computer

2) run a standard cable (with a plug on each end) between the rooms.

3) add an Ethernet socket on the wall by the router, connected to
another one in the office, plug the router into one, and the computer
into the other.

In all cases I will have to run the cables round the walls, preferably
in trunking.

In the case of (1), I am limited to where I can put it as the router
needs power. This has to be the last choice option.

So, what are the pros and cons of each of these?

Specifically,

1) do I need a particular grade of cable for 10 metres

I have found this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CX305R.html

though it looks too cheap, but I can click and collect

OTOH

http://www.cabling4less.co.uk/category.php?

terms=28-0100Y&source=googleproducts&gclid=CjwKCAjw5cL2BRAS EiwAENqAPuPpagMT2lBOQai1pqjaU6fA0QONhltF9pymPnyQ2k-
BGaUVEXjn3xoCuyEQAvD_BwE

looks better, but is mail order only

If I install sockets on the wall, are they easy to wire up? How do I
handle Rx/Tx crossover (or don't I need to?)

I have read that there are restrictions on bending the cable

Will I be able to get around the 90 degree corner as I go up the side
of a wall and then turn to go along the ceiling, all inside trucking?
Will I have to go around that corner outside trucking to avoid bending
the cable too much?

Anything else?

Ta

Tim

You have linked to a 10 metre patch cable at TLC so that will only work
for option (2).


yes

I know

If that will work for you (and you have no issues getting the cable
through doorways and still having the door shut) then that seems an
easy option. Assuming that you really only need 10 metres.


I'm having a man drill holes through the walls.

It only needs to go up one wall

along two ceilings (hall/bedroom)

and back down the wall again


Again you cabling4less link shows a cable with plugs at both ends.


Yes, but better moulded plugs :-)

Cat5e cable is fine unless you want speeds over a Gigabit per second.


my WiFi give me 12 Mbps (when it works properly)

but thinking of upgrading to FTTC

If you want to install a socket in your office and another by the
router then you will need a length of Cat5e cable, two sockets and a
punch down tool to wire up the back of the sockets. Plus a patch cable
from the socket to the computer ans the socket to the router.


do they have crossovers in?

won't one crossover undo the other

or do I have third crossover in the wall

Or doesn't Ethernet crossover at all?

More hassle and extra tools.


That's clear, but is it DIYable with amateur tools?

From your description I would go for option 2 but get a 15 metre cable
because you always need more length than you think.


tlc don't have 15m cable (or anything longer than 10)

starting with 2 gives me the option of converting to 3 later (when I
next want to decorate), by the addition of two sockets, but if I do
that, do I need new cable or can I just cut the plugs off the one that's
there?


One thing - if your man is drilling holes in the wall they need to be a
lot, lot bigger to take a moulded on plug than they do to just take a
cable with no plug on the end.
However if you are happy with that it seems straightforward.

About crossover.
Modern kit detects if this is needed.
Back in the day you had to worry about this, but not in the last {mumble}
years.
Anyway, if I understand correctly you are effectively just running a long
patch cable from your router to your PC, just like you would use a short
patch cable if the two were side by side.


That's the default solution

but ideally I'd like proper sockets on the wall instead

tim