Have you EVER posted metalworking content here ? Cites , please . I'm
tossing everybody that doesn't . Politics I can get at AS or on teevee ,
metalworking content is what this group is about . Enough is enough , and if
we all get together and killfile multi-group and political posters this will
be a much more pleasant place .

Snag
Today's metal work was to bend some 1/8 x 1/2 SS flat stock to make pegs
to secure my "deer cages" that I have built (did that tues) to go around my
fruit trees . Didn't work out so well ... The cages are 36" diameter tubes
of 6x6 concrete rewire . All welded construction , same as the tomato cages
built last year . I'll be making some more of those too , I need 8 more for
the planned tomato patch . The tree cages will also be wrapped with some
deer mesh , they can poke their little noses thru a 6x6 and nibble the new
growth .

On Wed, 21 Jan 2015 18:04:07 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

Have you EVER posted metalworking content here ? Cites , please . I'm
tossing everybody that doesn't . Politics I can get at AS or on teevee ,
metalworking content is what this group is about . Enough is enough , and if
we all get together and killfile multi-group and political posters this will
be a much more pleasant place .

I'm pretty sure Winston is here due to cross-posting...

Snag
Today's metal work was to bend some 1/8 x 1/2 SS flat stock to make pegs
to secure my "deer cages" that I have built (did that tues) to go around my
fruit trees . Didn't work out so well ... The cages are 36" diameter tubes
of 6x6 concrete rewire . All welded construction , same as the tomato cages
built last year . I'll be making some more of those too , I need 8 more for
the planned tomato patch . The tree cages will also be wrapped with some
deer mesh , they can poke their little noses thru a 6x6 and nibble the new
growth .

I have several tomato cages made from 4" x 4" square fencing that is 4
ft high. I pound in a fencing T-post (5 or 6 ft) and then wire the cage
to it for support. You can find T-posts at stores catering to farm
fencing and such. Like this:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...rchTerm=t+post


--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon Fisk wrote:

Snag
Today's metal work was to bend some 1/8 x 1/2 SS flat stock to make
pegs to secure my "deer cages" that I have built (did that tues) to
go around my fruit trees . Didn't work out so well ... The cages are
36" diameter tubes of 6x6 concrete rewire . All welded construction
, same as the tomato cages built last year . I'll be making some
more of those too , I need 8 more for the planned tomato patch . The
tree cages will also be wrapped with some deer mesh , they can poke
their little noses thru a 6x6 and nibble the new growth .

I have several tomato cages made from 4" x 4" square fencing that is 4
ft high. I pound in a fencing T-post (5 or 6 ft) and then wire the
cage to it for support. You can find T-posts at stores catering to
farm fencing and such.

I shoulda thought of that ... I have a few of those , not enough but the
co-op sells 'em for just over 4 bucks each . I was going to drive pegs and
string wire , but this is simpler , easier , and doesn't keep my mower away
from the cages . I don't worry so much about the tomatoes , but if a deer
tipped a tree cage it would do more damage than if I let it nibble . My
peach and one cherry tree might already be dead ... I tried all kinds of
sprays and stuff last year , nothing worked for more than a few days . Looks
like my metalworking for today will be to build a post driver . Got just the
materials I need on hand too , sometimes it's good to be a packrat .

--
Snag
and winnie's a goner ...

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 08:15:12 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:

I have several tomato cages made from 4" x 4" square fencing that is 4
ft high. I pound in a fencing T-post (5 or 6 ft) and then wire the
cage to it for support. You can find T-posts at stores catering to
farm fencing and such.

I shoulda thought of that ... I have a few of those , not enough but the
co-op sells 'em for just over 4 bucks each . I was going to drive pegs and
string wire , but this is simpler , easier , and doesn't keep my mower away
from the cages . I don't worry so much about the tomatoes , but if a deer
tipped a tree cage it would do more damage than if I let it nibble . My
peach and one cherry tree might already be dead ... I tried all kinds of
sprays and stuff last year , nothing worked for more than a few days . Looks
like my metalworking for today will be to build a post driver . Got just the
materials I need on hand too , sometimes it's good to be a packrat .


I just push them in a little bit, then use a 6lb sledge hammer. Hold
the post steady with one hand and then sledge with the other (choked
up on the handle). After you get them down a foot or so you can use both
hands on the sledge. Post driver would be nice though.

A deer can/will starve to death with a full stomach. They can eat
pretty much anything, just like some stuff better than others ;-)

I had to put a fence around the garden several years ago due to both
the deer and rabbits. What the deer didn't damage eating they would walk
all over. Fence is only 4ft tall but they have never went over it yet.
My fence posts are 6ft tall. Figured I would string a single wire
around the top if they still got in by jumping over. Had to run chicken
wire along the bottom to keep the rabbits out. They would zip through
the 4" x 2" square fence like it wasn't even there...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 08:15:12 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:

I have several tomato cages made from 4" x 4" square fencing that
is 4 ft high. I pound in a fencing T-post (5 or 6 ft) and then wire
the cage to it for support. You can find T-posts at stores catering
to farm fencing and such.

I shoulda thought of that ... I have a few of those , not enough
but the co-op sells 'em for just over 4 bucks each . I was going to
drive pegs and string wire , but this is simpler , easier , and
doesn't keep my mower away from the cages . I don't worry so much
about the tomatoes , but if a deer tipped a tree cage it would do
more damage than if I let it nibble . My peach and one cherry tree
might already be dead ... I tried all kinds of sprays and stuff last
year , nothing worked for more than a few days . Looks like my
metalworking for today will be to build a post driver . Got just the
materials I need on hand too , sometimes it's good to be a packrat .


I just push them in a little bit, then use a 6lb sledge hammer. Hold
the post steady with one hand and then sledge with the other (choked
up on the handle). After you get them down a foot or so you can use
both hands on the sledge. Post driver would be nice though.

A deer can/will starve to death with a full stomach. They can eat
pretty much anything, just like some stuff better than others ;-)

I had to put a fence around the garden several years ago due to both
the deer and rabbits. What the deer didn't damage eating they would
walk all over. Fence is only 4ft tall but they have never went over
it yet. My fence posts are 6ft tall. Figured I would string a single
wire around the top if they still got in by jumping over. Had to run
chicken wire along the bottom to keep the rabbits out. They would zip
through the 4" x 2" square fence like it wasn't even there...

Rabbits haven't been a problem , we see very few of them down here in the
woods . I have a piece of pipe that will slide over the posts , some 5/16"
round stock , and some bigger steel rounds for a cap . That plus a shop full
of tools and time on my hands ...
--
Snag

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 10:59:41 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

Rabbits haven't been a problem , we see very few of them down here in the
woods . I have a piece of pipe that will slide over the posts , some 5/16"
round stock , and some bigger steel rounds for a cap . That plus a shop full
of tools and time on my hands ...

Year before the fence I took out 14 of them in a months time. They are
in full "production" the same time as all our flowers and veggies...

Been going to mention this... I have an old walking tractor that could
use some wheel weights. Kinda like your tractor could use some more
weight. I think you could take off a wheel, lay it on its side and then
make some weights from cement. You'd have to make a circular form to
contain the outside edge, lay some plastic on the rim so it would
release and of course some bolts into the rim to hold it in place.
Maybe some wire, reinforcement in the cement too. Just an idea in case
your haven't got anything else to do

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 10:59:41 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

Rabbits haven't been a problem , we see very few of them down here
in the woods . I have a piece of pipe that will slide over the posts
, some 5/16" round stock , and some bigger steel rounds for a cap .
That plus a shop full of tools and time on my hands ...

Year before the fence I took out 14 of them in a months time. They are
in full "production" the same time as all our flowers and veggies...

Been going to mention this... I have an old walking tractor that could
use some wheel weights. Kinda like your tractor could use some more
weight. I think you could take off a wheel, lay it on its side and
then make some weights from cement. You'd have to make a circular
form to contain the outside edge, lay some plastic on the rim so it
would release and of course some bolts into the rim to hold it in
place. Maybe some wire, reinforcement in the cement too. Just an idea
in case your haven't got anything else to do

That's a great idea ! Not that I lack things to do , but I can sure make
the time to do that . Did the bunnies taste good ?
I mde a siple pole pounder , works well enough . Next step is making some
wire tripods to go on top since the trees are (or will soon be) taller than
the 5' width of the rewire I used for cages . First one I used 28" of wire ,
the rest will get 36" . I knew that coil of heavy galv wire would come in
handy some day ...
--
Snag

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:20:25 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

That's a great idea ! Not that I lack things to do , but I can sure make
the time to do that . Did the bunnies taste good ?

Wrong time of the year for eating. They have all sorts of parasite
trouble during the warm/summer months. Bummer but the old three "s"
solution. Shoot, shovel... Once it gets colder out the population drops
right off. All the predators, coyote, fox, GH Owl, feral cats... see to
it.

I mde a siple pole pounder , works well enough . Next step is making some
wire tripods to go on top since the trees are (or will soon be) taller than
the 5' width of the rewire I used for cages . First one I used 28" of wire ,
the rest will get 36" . I knew that coil of heavy galv wire would come in
handy some day ...

A coil of galv wire is a very handy thing to have around

I've got a bunch of old wire coat hangers that I cut up and use pieces
to attach the cages to the t-posts. Usually work good for one season.
Posts get pulled up each year, cleaned off and then stashed till the
next.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 16:45:16 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:20:25 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

That's a great idea ! Not that I lack things to do , but I can sure make
the time to do that . Did the bunnies taste good ?

Wrong time of the year for eating. They have all sorts of parasite
trouble during the warm/summer months. Bummer but the old three "s"
solution. Shoot, shovel... Once it gets colder out the population drops
right off. All the predators, coyote, fox, GH Owl, feral cats... see to
it.

I mde a siple pole pounder , works well enough . Next step is making some
wire tripods to go on top since the trees are (or will soon be) taller than
the 5' width of the rewire I used for cages . First one I used 28" of wire ,
the rest will get 36" . I knew that coil of heavy galv wire would come in
handy some day ...

A coil of galv wire is a very handy thing to have around

I've got a bunch of old wire coat hangers that I cut up and use pieces
to attach the cages to the t-posts. Usually work good for one season.
Posts get pulled up each year, cleaned off and then stashed till the
next.

I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. Just a piece of 1/2"
plate maybe 6"x3" with a hole to fit over the tongue of the jack and
another to slip over the T-post. When the jack starts lifting, the
piece over the T-post binds, pulling the post. I saw one in a store
for $20, had the plate and a cutting torch, so there ya go.

Pete Keillor

Leon Fisk wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:20:25 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

That's a great idea ! Not that I lack things to do , but I can
sure make the time to do that . Did the bunnies taste good ?

Wrong time of the year for eating. They have all sorts of parasite
trouble during the warm/summer months. Bummer but the old three "s"
solution. Shoot, shovel... Once it gets colder out the population
drops right off. All the predators, coyote, fox, GH Owl, feral
cats... see to it.

I mde a siple pole pounder , works well enough . Next step is
making some wire tripods to go on top since the trees are (or will
soon be) taller than the 5' width of the rewire I used for cages .
First one I used 28" of wire , the rest will get 36" . I knew that
coil of heavy galv wire would come in handy some day ...

A coil of galv wire is a very handy thing to have around

I've got a bunch of old wire coat hangers that I cut up and use pieces
to attach the cages to the t-posts. Usually work good for one season.
Posts get pulled up each year, cleaned off and then stashed till the
next.

I have a roll of tie wire , can't remember when or why I bought it but it
has sure been handy . These posts will stay in place until I'm sure the
trees are strong enough to withstand a bit of nibbling , might be 2 or 3
years .

--
Snag

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:58:02 -0600, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 16:45:16 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:20:25 -0600
"Terry Coombs" wrote:

That's a great idea ! Not that I lack things to do , but I can sure make
the time to do that . Did the bunnies taste good ?

Wrong time of the year for eating. They have all sorts of parasite
trouble during the warm/summer months. Bummer but the old three "s"
solution. Shoot, shovel... Once it gets colder out the population drops
right off. All the predators, coyote, fox, GH Owl, feral cats... see to
it.

I mde a siple pole pounder , works well enough . Next step is making some
wire tripods to go on top since the trees are (or will soon be) taller than
the 5' width of the rewire I used for cages . First one I used 28" of wire ,
the rest will get 36" . I knew that coil of heavy galv wire would come in
handy some day ...

A coil of galv wire is a very handy thing to have around

I've got a bunch of old wire coat hangers that I cut up and use pieces
to attach the cages to the t-posts. Usually work good for one season.
Posts get pulled up each year, cleaned off and then stashed till the
next.

I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. Just a piece of 1/2"
plate maybe 6"x3" with a hole to fit over the tongue of the jack and
another to slip over the T-post. When the jack starts lifting, the
piece over the T-post binds, pulling the post. I saw one in a store
for $20, had the plate and a cutting torch, so there ya go.

Good 'un, Pete. I used my engine hoist this morning to pull out a
tree/shrub which was too close to the house. With a chain wrapped
around it and a tubafore under the working wheels, it came out in
about 5 minutes. I lifted it about 5", cut the straining roots with a
lopper, and lifted it the rest of the way out. Setup, work, takedown,
and storage/burnpile took roughly 20 minutes.

Does anyone know where to get a (reasonably priced) set of springs for
a hi-lift jack? Mine was a freebie from a garage sale which had been
in a fire. I keep meaning to see if HF has kits. Local 4x4 shops
want to sell a $200 replacement to me. To _me_? Hah! grin

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 17:04:14 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:58:02 -0600, Pete Keillor wrote:
....
I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. Just a piece of 1/2"
plate maybe 6"x3" with a hole to fit over the tongue of the jack and
another to slip over the T-post. When the jack starts lifting, the
piece over the T-post binds, pulling the post. I saw one in a store
for $20, had the plate and a cutting torch, so there ya go.
....
Does anyone know where to get a (reasonably priced) set of springs for
a hi-lift jack? Mine was a freebie from a garage sale which had been
in a fire. I keep meaning to see if HF has kits. Local 4x4 shops
want to sell a $200 replacement to me. To _me_? Hah! grin

Put the following in a google search box:
Hi-Lift Fix-It-Kit
or see http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/fix-it-kit.html for
a $15-20 kit with
2 Climbing Pins
2 Climbing Pin Springs
2 Cross Pins
1 Shear Bolt & Nut
1 tube of jack lubricant
Are the "Climbing Pin Springs" the springs you referred to?

--
jiw

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 07:18:14 +0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 17:04:14 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:58:02 -0600, Pete Keillor wrote:
...
I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. Just a piece of 1/2"
plate maybe 6"x3" with a hole to fit over the tongue of the jack and
another to slip over the T-post. When the jack starts lifting, the
piece over the T-post binds, pulling the post. I saw one in a store
for $20, had the plate and a cutting torch, so there ya go.
...
Does anyone know where to get a (reasonably priced) set of springs for
a hi-lift jack? Mine was a freebie from a garage sale which had been
in a fire. I keep meaning to see if HF has kits. Local 4x4 shops
want to sell a $200 replacement to me. To _me_? Hah! grin

Put the following in a google search box:
Hi-Lift Fix-It-Kit
or see http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/fix-it-kit.html for
a $15-20 kit with
2 Climbing Pins
2 Climbing Pin Springs
2 Cross Pins
1 Shear Bolt & Nut
1 tube of jack lubricant

Whose package reads "WD-40". g


Are the "Climbing Pin Springs" the springs you referred to?

Yes. And those exact same kits are available from $17 to $39.98 (plus
possible s/h) depending upon your source. It really amazes me, since
entire farm jacks can be purchased for that same $39.95.

These hi-lift jacks are going for $298 in "1st Responder" uniform
(paint). thud

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 07:18:14 +0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 17:04:14 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:58:02 -0600, Pete Keillor wrote:
...
I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. ...

My youthful experiences with bumper jacks convinced me to raise
unstable loads by hoisting from above whenever possible. Given that I
have a 1 ton shop crane and a 2 ton chainfall on a tripod, what would
a hi lift jack do better besides ride in the pickup bed?
-jsw

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:58:02 -0600
Pete Keillor wrote:

I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. Just a piece of 1/2"
plate maybe 6"x3" with a hole to fit over the tongue of the jack and
another to slip over the T-post. When the jack starts lifting, the
piece over the T-post binds, pulling the post. I saw one in a store
for $20, had the plate and a cutting torch, so there ya go.

I usually pull them out by hand, builds character don't you know

If I can't get it out that way I resort to a short loop chain, pry bar
and block of wood. Haven't had to resort to the hi-lift jack yet but
I've got several around. I'm not getting any younger though and may
have to resort to making a t-post puller for the jack in the future...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 13:01:49 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

My youthful experiences with bumper jacks convinced me to raise
unstable loads by hoisting from above whenever possible. Given that I
have a 1 ton shop crane and a 2 ton chainfall on a tripod, what would
a hi lift jack do better besides ride in the pickup bed?
-jsw

They work like a "winch" too for pulling stuff. Not a lot of distance
before you have to stop and rejigger but if you are stuck in the
boonies...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 13:01:49 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

My youthful experiences with bumper jacks convinced me to raise
unstable loads by hoisting from above whenever possible. Given that
I
have a 1 ton shop crane and a 2 ton chainfall on a tripod, what
would
a hi lift jack do better besides ride in the pickup bed?
-jsw

They work like a "winch" too for pulling stuff. Not a lot of
distance
before you have to stop and rejigger but if you are stuck in the
boonies...

--
Leon Fisk

BTDT. The most useful thing I carried was a folding pruning saw to cut
a tree trunk lever to repeatedly lift the car and let rocks piled
against the tire fall into the rut, and then to cut short pieces to
make a few feet of corduroy track.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corduroy_road

The chain fall has served me as a slow and awkward manual winch. For
horizontal pulls a lever hoist is a much better choice. The jack is
more pull for a lot less money than a big lever hoist, though.

-jsw

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 13:44:27 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:


BTDT. The most useful thing I carried was a folding pruning saw to cut
a tree trunk lever to repeatedly lift the car and let rocks piled
against the tire fall into the rut, and then to cut short pieces to
make a few feet of corduroy track.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corduroy_road

I had an inexpensive folding saw break on me out in the boonies. It
worked like a big jackknife. Problem is they are weak side-to-side in
the pivot/fold area. Thankfully I was only cutting a small blow-down on
the way into a secluded area. Lesson learned though. Be careful with
then or carry a more rugged saw

The chain fall has served me as a slow and awkward manual winch. For
horizontal pulls a lever hoist is a much better choice. The jack is
more pull for a lot less money than a big lever hoist, though.

I consider the hi-lift jacks as problem solvers. They aren't the best
for any particular job but will get the job done for many.

Have you seen the cable gripper type winches? Griphoist stuff:

http://tractel.com/us/series.php?id_serie=47

http://www.amazon.com/Tractel-GRIPHO...dp/B000KUCKI0/

http://www.bairstow.com/Griphoist-Ti...sts-p/ghwh.htm

God awful expensive but would be nice to have at times...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 13:44:27 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

BTDT. The most useful thing I carried was a folding pruning saw to
cut
a tree trunk lever to repeatedly lift the car and let rocks piled
against the tire fall into the rut, and then to cut short pieces to
make a few feet of corduroy track.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corduroy_road

I had an inexpensive folding saw break on me out in the boonies. It
worked like a big jackknife. Problem is they are weak side-to-side
in
the pivot/fold area. Thankfully I was only cutting a small blow-down
on
the way into a secluded area. Lesson learned though. Be careful with
then or carry a more rugged saw

The Coghlan folding saw has been fine for me, but I rarely break
anything anyway.

The chain fall has served me as a slow and awkward manual winch. For
horizontal pulls a lever hoist is a much better choice. The jack is
more pull for a lot less money than a big lever hoist, though.

I consider the hi-lift jacks as problem solvers. They aren't the
best
for any particular job but will get the job done for many.

I'm looking for examples of what they can do that something else
couldn't. I don't like that they can tip the load onto the operator
so easily.


Have you seen the cable gripper type winches? Griphoist stuff:
http://tractel.com/us/series.php?id_serie=47
http://www.amazon.com/Tractel-GRIPHO...dp/B000KUCKI0/
http://www.bairstow.com/Griphoist-Ti...sts-p/ghwh.htm
God awful expensive but would be nice to have at times...
Leon Fisk

I have a pair of mountaineering ascenders that grip like that on
kernmantle. Unlike Prusik knots they don't need tension on the bottom
of the rope. They tear up Walmart rope.

I looked into those cable pullers after watching a power crew use one
to string up new lines. Most of the pulling I do is at ground level
where I can make short pulls, stop and shorten the lines. When I have
to change the lean of a large tree I use two pullers alternately.

The PBS show on salvaging the Costa Concordia has a cutaway animation
of the hydraulic jacks with fixed and moving cable gripper jaws that
pulled the ship upright.

-jsw

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 13:01:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 07:18:14 +0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 17:04:14 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:58:02 -0600, Pete Keillor wrote:
...
I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. ...

My youthful experiences with bumper jacks convinced me to raise
unstable loads by hoisting from above whenever possible. Given that I
have a 1 ton shop crane and a 2 ton chainfall on a tripod, what would
a hi lift jack do better besides ride in the pickup bed?
-jsw

My first and favorite bumper jack (1957) consisted of a bsae plate
with a dimple in the centre, a 3/4"' acme threaded rod crrying a hook
and a crank handle on top. Put it in the centre of the bumper and with
the steadying influence of a couple buddies, crank her up and move her
sidewise; repeat as required to get back on the road. Unfortunately
the rod got bent and it never worked right afterward.
Dangerous but handy at times.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 19:06:04 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 13:44:27 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

BTDT. The most useful thing I carried was a folding pruning saw to
cut
a tree trunk lever to repeatedly lift the car and let rocks piled
against the tire fall into the rut, and then to cut short pieces to
make a few feet of corduroy track.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corduroy_road

I had an inexpensive folding saw break on me out in the boonies. It
worked like a big jackknife. Problem is they are weak side-to-side
in
the pivot/fold area. Thankfully I was only cutting a small blow-down
on
the way into a secluded area. Lesson learned though. Be careful with
then or carry a more rugged saw

The Coghlan folding saw has been fine for me, but I rarely break
anything anyway.

The chain fall has served me as a slow and awkward manual winch. For
horizontal pulls a lever hoist is a much better choice. The jack is
more pull for a lot less money than a big lever hoist, though.

I consider the hi-lift jacks as problem solvers. They aren't the
best
for any particular job but will get the job done for many.

I'm looking for examples of what they can do that something else
couldn't. I don't like that they can tip the load onto the operator
so easily.


Have you seen the cable gripper type winches? Griphoist stuff:
http://tractel.com/us/series.php?id_serie=47
http://www.amazon.com/Tractel-GRIPHO...dp/B000KUCKI0/
http://www.bairstow.com/Griphoist-Ti...sts-p/ghwh.htm
God awful expensive but would be nice to have at times...
Leon Fisk

I have a pair of mountaineering ascenders that grip like that on
kernmantle. Unlike Prusik knots they don't need tension on the bottom
of the rope. They tear up Walmart rope.

I looked into those cable pullers after watching a power crew use one
to string up new lines. Most of the pulling I do is at ground level
where I can make short pulls, stop and shorten the lines. When I have
to change the lean of a large tree I use two pullers alternately.

The PBS show on salvaging the Costa Concordia has a cutaway animation
of the hydraulic jacks with fixed and moving cable gripper jaws that
pulled the ship upright.

-jsw

Hi, Jim. I bought my hi-lift jack in 1974, when I got my CJ-5. I
spent about 15 years surf fishing. I used it primarily to get other
folks unstuck, one or two a year.

One of my favorites was a couple of dudes in a short bed 4x4 Ford
truck with monster tires and a lift kit that tried to cross a slough
behind the beach between Sargent and Brown Cedar Cut. My (future)
wife and I were on our way down the beach when we saw a Bronco with
two women and a bunch of kids coming back. A little further on, there
were these two bozos waving us down with the truc in the slough.

They asked if I could pull them out. I looked, and the top of their
monster tires were sticking out about an inch out of the 2" of water
and who knows how deep mud. The diff must have been at least a foot
under. So I told them I couldn't pull them out, but could get them
out. We tried once with my 50' 3/4" nylon rope, no go. Duh.

Here's where the jack comes in. I had them get in that stinky bog,
and started dragging in driftwood. The procedure is keep pumping
boards into the bog with the jack. Luckily they had a big brush guard
so something was high enough out to receive the jack. It took about
an hour, and many boards, but finally the jack started to take a load.
It looked like the brush guard was going to bend, so I had them stop,
then take another bite.

Finally, there was a little sucking sound, and the front tires came up
less than an inch. We kept at it until the front was up and they got
boards under the tires. Then I went back to the rope and yanked them
out first try.

After, they asked what they owed, and I said I didn't care. They were
black mud head to toe. One of them dug in his pocket and handed
Brenda a wad of mud and money. Then they told us that as soon as they
got stuck, their wives and kids turned around in a Bronco and left.
Ouch.

We had a nice meal at Gaido's on that money after Brenda washed it
off. Don't remember catching any fish that day.

Pete Keillor

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 14:10:04 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:58:02 -0600
Pete Keillor wrote:

I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. Just a piece of 1/2"
plate maybe 6"x3" with a hole to fit over the tongue of the jack and
another to slip over the T-post. When the jack starts lifting, the
piece over the T-post binds, pulling the post. I saw one in a store
for $20, had the plate and a cutting torch, so there ya go.

I usually pull them out by hand, builds character don't you know

If I can't get it out that way I resort to a short loop chain, pry bar
and block of wood. Haven't had to resort to the hi-lift jack yet but
I've got several around. I'm not getting any younger though and may
have to resort to making a t-post puller for the jack in the future...

Whew! and maybe destroys backs. When I was young I pulled up several
plain fence posts by hand, but that was in Gulf Coast gumbo, not this
stuff. I don't think I could do that out of our caliche. I know I'm
not going to try.

Pete Keillor

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 17:04:14 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Does anyone know where to get a (reasonably priced) set of springs for
a hi-lift jack? Mine was a freebie from a garage sale which had been
in a fire. I keep meaning to see if HF has kits. Local 4x4 shops
want to sell a $200 replacement to me. To _me_? Hah! grin

http://www.hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks...-services.html


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 07:32:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 07:18:14 +0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 17:04:14 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:58:02 -0600, Pete Keillor wrote:
...
I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. Just a piece of 1/2"
plate maybe 6"x3" with a hole to fit over the tongue of the jack and
another to slip over the T-post. When the jack starts lifting, the
piece over the T-post binds, pulling the post. I saw one in a store
for $20, had the plate and a cutting torch, so there ya go.
...
Does anyone know where to get a (reasonably priced) set of springs for
a hi-lift jack? Mine was a freebie from a garage sale which had been
in a fire. I keep meaning to see if HF has kits. Local 4x4 shops
want to sell a $200 replacement to me. To _me_? Hah! grin

Put the following in a google search box:
Hi-Lift Fix-It-Kit
or see http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/fix-it-kit.html for
a $15-20 kit with
2 Climbing Pins
2 Climbing Pin Springs
2 Cross Pins
1 Shear Bolt & Nut
1 tube of jack lubricant

Whose package reads "WD-40". g


Are the "Climbing Pin Springs" the springs you referred to?

Yes. And those exact same kits are available from $17 to $39.98 (plus
possible s/h) depending upon your source. It really amazes me, since
entire farm jacks can be purchased for that same $39.95.

The Horrible Freight version yes..but an original Hi-Lift will set you
back at least $70 (Grin). Ive got 3 of them..one is needing the
up/down reverse lever. 2 of them are the "x-treme" versions which
will set you back $100+..unless you buy the blems on Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48-HI-LIFT-C...-/331458376195

These hi-lift jacks are going for $298 in "1st Responder" uniform
(paint). thud

Of course anything with 1st Responder on the name will hit you right
in the wallet

Hi-Lift jacks are very very handy to have in your kit.

Gunner



"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 13:01:49 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 23 Jan 2015 07:18:14 +0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 17:04:14 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 14:58:02 -0600, Pete Keillor wrote:
...
I made a T-post puller for my hi-lift jack. ...

My youthful experiences with bumper jacks convinced me to raise
unstable loads by hoisting from above whenever possible. Given that I
have a 1 ton shop crane and a 2 ton chainfall on a tripod, what would
a hi lift jack do better besides ride in the pickup bed?
-jsw


They are handy as hell for a lot of things. But they are simply ONE
tool..they dont replace all of your tools.

Ive used them for everything from pulling fence posts to changing
tires to bucking out buckled body work to lifting machinery so I could
put skates under them. Very handy for many things but not the sole
tool in your lifting kit.


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 10:22:26 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Jan 2015 17:04:14 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Does anyone know where to get a (reasonably priced) set of springs for
a hi-lift jack? Mine was a freebie from a garage sale which had been
in a fire. I keep meaning to see if HF has kits. Local 4x4 shops
want to sell a $200 replacement to me. To _me_? Hah! grin

http://www.hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks...-services.html

sigh I don't consider $25.51 + $8 s/h to be a reasonable price for
2 springs, despite the extra goodies included in the kit, so I'll keep
looking. Perhaps it's time for me to disassemble it and put the
springs in the truck so I can match them up when I find a local spring
repository. Doh!

The First Responder video on the Hi-Lift site is great. I'm sure I'll
remember some of the more innovative uses for the jack. I've been
using an old bumper jack for lots of things, like lifting porch roofs
off the railings to replace them. A 1-1/4" square steel tube fits
well if you grind the stops off the top for the tube to slide down.


--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle

On Saturday, January 24, 2015 at 7:25:36 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:


sigh I don't consider $25.51 + $8 s/h to be a reasonable price for
2 springs, despite the extra goodies included in the kit, so I'll keep
looking. Perhaps it's time for me to disassemble it and put the
springs in the truck so I can match them up when I find a local spring
repository. Doh!


I looked at the manual,but could not see the springs very clearly. If they are springs made out of wire, I would try making some new ones out of stainless TIG wire. If you let me know more about the springs, I can see what diam. stainless I have and