Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.


Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).



If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.


--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

On Jan 18, 6:55*pm, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).

If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.

--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

Thanks for posting metalworking content. I looked at both pictures.

On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

Nice to see real metalworking.

Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).

Nice work! But I'll bet that Steve downsizes those images.
They are way oversized. 2560x1920 is massive overkill.

And both are all lower case names except for the extension,
FWIW. If you're going to put one of them at the beginning of a
sentence, put it in double quotes to resist the temptation to
capitalize it.

If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.

That's O.K. It is nice work anyway. CNC machine did it?

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Jan 18, 8:19*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:

Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

* * * * Nice to see real metalworking.

Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).

* * * * Nice work! *But I'll bet that Steve downsizes those images.
They are way oversized. *2560x1920 is massive overkill.

* * * * And both are all lower case names except for the extension,
FWIW. *If you're going to put one of them at the beginning of a
sentence, put it in double quotes to resist the temptation to
capitalize it.

If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.

* * * * That's O.K. *It is nice work anyway. *CNC machine did it?

* * * * Enjoy,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
* * * * * * * * * Remove oil spill source from e-mail
*Email: * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I liked the large pictures. Why do they need to be made smaller? Are
you still using dial up?

On 19/01/2013 10:55 AM, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.


Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).



If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.




http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid1.JPG
http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid2.JPG

Nice work - mind if I ask what they are?

"Dennis" wrote in message
. au...
On 19/01/2013 10:55 AM, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.


Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).



If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.




http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid1.JPG
http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid2.JPG

Nice work - mind if I ask what they are?

Im guessing a planetary gear housingm with an outer clutch band.

On 1/19/2013 01:06, Dennis wrote:
On 19/01/2013 10:55 AM, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.


Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).



If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.




http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid1.JPG
http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid2.JPG

Nice work - mind if I ask what they are?


See PrecisionMachinist's response below.

--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

On 1/19/2013 01:21, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Dennis" wrote in message
. au...
On 19/01/2013 10:55 AM, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.


Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).



If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.




http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid1.JPG
http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid2.JPG

Nice work - mind if I ask what they are?

Im guessing a planetary gear housingm with an outer clutch band.



Damn, Sam, That's what it am. G It's a subcontracted government job,
they didn't want to build a deep draw die for just 2 pieces.

I don't know who originally said it, but
"you are that......damn......good!"

--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

On 1/18/2013 23:19, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

Nice to see real metalworking.

Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).

Nice work! But I'll bet that Steve downsizes those images.
They are way oversized. 2560x1920 is massive overkill.

Yeah, they came from work's camera, many more MP than mine. My camera
images are usually about 750K in size. Also explains the upper case file
extension, my camera is lower case. I didn't check anything before
uploading.




And both are all lower case names except for the extension,
FWIW. If you're going to put one of them at the beginning of a
sentence, put it in double quotes to resist the temptation to
capitalize it.

If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.

That's O.K. It is nice work anyway. CNC machine did it?

No, metal chisel, stones, and sandpaper. VBG

Spoiler alert
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..


Seriously, yes, a Mazak Nexus vertical.




Enjoy,
DoN.



--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

"Steve Walker" wrote in message
...
On 1/19/2013 01:21, PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Dennis" wrote in message
. au...
On 19/01/2013 10:55 AM, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.


Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).



If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and
it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.




http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid1.JPG
http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/solid2.JPG

Nice work - mind if I ask what they are?

Im guessing a planetary gear housingm with an outer clutch band.



Damn, Sam, That's what it am. G It's a subcontracted government job,
they didn't want to build a deep draw die for just 2 pieces.

I don't know who originally said it, but
"you are that......damn......good!"


Thanks, I had a pretty strong hunch, because of the notch area...

--that is a relatively large, thin-walled piece, the material alone
representing a significant cost--it takes many years of skill and
accumulated specialty knowledge to sucessfully manufacture items of this
nature out of raw stock..

Nice work...

On 19 Jan 2013 04:19:02 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

mwdropbox.com.


Nice big pile of chips at the end of the cycle eh?

VBG

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

Nice to see real metalworking.

Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).

Nice work! But I'll bet that Steve downsizes those images.
They are way oversized. 2560x1920 is massive overkill.

And both are all lower case names except for the extension,
FWIW. If you're going to put one of them at the beginning of a
sentence, put it in double quotes to resist the temptation to
capitalize it.

If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.

That's O.K. It is nice work anyway. CNC machine did it?



Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

On Jan 19, 8:57*pm, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

* * * * Nice to see real metalworking.

Solid1 and solid2 (JPG format).

* * * * Nice work! *But I'll bet that Steve downsizes those images.
They are way oversized. *2560x1920 is massive overkill.

* * * * And both are all lower case names except for the extension,
FWIW. *If you're going to put one of them at the beginning of a
sentence, put it in double quotes to resist the temptation to
capitalize it.

If I was rich, I'd be doing this for recreation, it's my craft, and it's
metalworking, but for now, I work to get paid.

* * * * That's O.K. *It is nice work anyway. *CNC machine did it?

* *Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

Anyone ever notice that when it comes to metalworking that Terrell
always changes the subject. You got anything to say about the parts
and the skill that it takes to make these parts, ****tard?

You had no idea what the parts even were for. I didn't either but
unlike Terrell, I'm honest enough to admit it. I have no idea what
lots of parts that I program and/or machine are for. Sometimes you
learn not to ask. Depends on who you are doing work for.

On Jan 19, 7:04*pm, Gunner wrote:
On 19 Jan 2013 04:19:02 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

mwdropbox.com.

Nice big pile of chips at the end of the cycle eh?

VBG

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

That's all you have to say about the parts? Not, how did you hold it?
What problems do you encounter machining a part like that, etc? Think
you could make that part Gummer? What would you machine first? What do
you think would be problem areas? No... **** all that: you want to
make some dumb ass comment on chips. You are incapable of learning
precision machining. Go drink some more Mountain Dew and keep
poisoning yourself, dickhead.

On 2013-01-20, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

Nice to see real metalworking.

[ ... ]

Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

Well ... the cleaning and checking of the machines is complete.
Most of the machines came out fine -- after de-surface-rusting and
re-lubing. The drill press pops the GFI as soon as it starts to rotate.
Likely water in the small VFD mounted on it, as the motor is well
sealed. I can't dig into that to fix it until the*walls are
re-insulated and re-drywalled. (Adding outlets while I am about it. :-)

Lots of tool holders (30-taper and 40-taper as well as
Aloris style) need de-rusting -- or replacement. All the end mill sets
(normal, two angles of dovetail, and Woodruff key cutters) will need to
be replaced, as well as drill bits -- but waiting about ordering these
until I have a place to put them.

Currently waiting through paperwork to get the check from the
insurance company turned into cash to pay people. Had to get it signed
by the credit union, and the mortgage company wants to hold onto it and
handle disbursements themselves.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-20, Michael A. Terrell ? wrote:
?
? "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
??
?? On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker ? wrote:
?? ? Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.
??
?? Nice to see real metalworking.

[ ... ]

? Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

Well ... the cleaning and checking of the machines is complete.
Most of the machines came out fine -- after de-surface-rusting and
re-lubing. The drill press pops the GFI as soon as it starts to rotate.
Likely water in the small VFD mounted on it, as the motor is well
sealed. I can't dig into that to fix it until the walls are
re-insulated and re-drywalled. (Adding outlets while I am about it. :-)

Lots of tool holders (30-taper and 40-taper as well as
Aloris style) need de-rusting -- or replacement. All the end mill sets
(normal, two angles of dovetail, and Woodruff key cutters) will need to
be replaced, as well as drill bits -- but waiting about ordering these
until I have a place to put them.

Currently waiting through paperwork to get the check from the
insurance company turned into cash to pay people. Had to get it signed
by the credit union, and the mortgage company wants to hold onto it and
handle disbursements themselves.


At least you are making some progress. Keep us informed, and let us
know if you need to replace the computer you used for CNC. I'm sure
something can be found, unless you want to spring for a new, industrial
grade motheboard with EISA slots.

On 21 Jan 2013 03:31:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-20, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

Nice to see real metalworking.

[ ... ]

Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

Well ... the cleaning and checking of the machines is complete.
Most of the machines came out fine -- after de-surface-rusting and
re-lubing. The drill press pops the GFI as soon as it starts to rotate.
Likely water in the small VFD mounted on it, as the motor is well
sealed. I can't dig into that to fix it until the*walls are
re-insulated and re-drywalled. (Adding outlets while I am about it. :-)

Lots of tool holders (30-taper and 40-taper as well as
Aloris style) need de-rusting -- or replacement. All the end mill sets
(normal, two angles of dovetail, and Woodruff key cutters) will need to
be replaced, as well as drill bits -- but waiting about ordering these
until I have a place to put them.

Currently waiting through paperwork to get the check from the
insurance company turned into cash to pay people. Had to get it signed
by the credit union, and the mortgage company wants to hold onto it and
handle disbursements themselves.

Enjoy,
DoN.

rusty endmills and tool holders...will still work just fine after you
hit em with the fine wire wheel. Unless they were stored in a bucket
of salt water for a couple months.

Half the tooling I have at home, came home rusty. Shrug

But Ill not tell that to your insurance company.


https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422.../ShopDec282012

Added some photos

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 13:00:37 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:19:45 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On 21 Jan 2013 03:31:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-20, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

Nice to see real metalworking.

[ ... ]

Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

Well ... the cleaning and checking of the machines is complete.
Most of the machines came out fine -- after de-surface-rusting and
re-lubing. The drill press pops the GFI as soon as it starts to rotate.
Likely water in the small VFD mounted on it, as the motor is well
sealed. I can't dig into that to fix it until the*walls are
re-insulated and re-drywalled. (Adding outlets while I am about it. :-)

Lots of tool holders (30-taper and 40-taper as well as
Aloris style) need de-rusting -- or replacement. All the end mill sets
(normal, two angles of dovetail, and Woodruff key cutters) will need to
be replaced, as well as drill bits -- but waiting about ordering these
until I have a place to put them.

Currently waiting through paperwork to get the check from the
insurance company turned into cash to pay people. Had to get it signed
by the credit union, and the mortgage company wants to hold onto it and
handle disbursements themselves.

Enjoy,
DoN.

rusty endmills and tool holders...will still work just fine after you
hit em with the fine wire wheel. Unless they were stored in a bucket
of salt water for a couple months.

I cringe every time I hear someone talk about wire brushing edged
tools or see pictures on eBay of tools cleaned that way. It's
impossible NOT to damage the cutting edges. Toolholders, fine.
Shovels, fine. Handplane irons, saws, or end mill bits? No way.


What..they cant be resharpened????


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 21 Jan 2013 13:00:37 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

I cringe every time I hear someone talk about wire brushing edged
tools or see pictures on eBay of tools cleaned that way. It's
impossible NOT to damage the cutting edges. Toolholders, fine.
Shovels, fine. Handplane irons, saws, or end mill bits? No way.

What..they cant be resharpened????

If they are that rusty the edge is already gone.

Saws and planes are easy to resharpen once you learn how. I bought
some replacement Fiskars pruning saw blades from Home Depot that
already needed jointing and filing.
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

I couldn't find a cant saw file for the M teeth
http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201...201b0305P.html
but a mill file worked well enough. A rough burr in the center of the
vee doesn't matter for pruning.

jsw

On 2013-01-21, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-20, Michael A. Terrell ? wrote:
?
? "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
??
?? On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker ? wrote:
?? ? Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.
??
?? Nice to see real metalworking.

[ ... ]

? Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

Well ... the cleaning and checking of the machines is complete.

[ ... ]

Currently waiting through paperwork to get the check from the
insurance company turned into cash to pay people. Had to get it signed
by the credit union, and the mortgage company wants to hold onto it and
handle disbursements themselves.


At least you are making some progress. Keep us informed, and let us
know if you need to replace the computer you used for CNC. I'm sure
something can be found, unless you want to spring for a new, industrial
grade motheboard with EISA slots.

Well ... actually, *that* computer survived, though it looks a
bit ugly on the surface which was uppermost. Soot stains in the paint :-)
It is an HP box with a SATA drive, and no custom boards in it yet. It
is loaded with LinuxCNC and has a 19" touchscreen monitor hung on it.
2GB RAM, 2.4 GHz CPU. Linux claims to find 2 CPUs, so it must be a dual
core. :-) Linux says (in dmesg) among lots of other things:

================================================== ====================
HP Compaq Laptop series board detected. Selecting BIOS-method for reboots.
================================================== ====================

even though it is a nice tower case.

What *did* die was an IBM ThinkCenter (nice small desktop box)
which had Solaris 10 OS installed, and was used to interface to the Emco
Maier Compact-5/CNC lathe to upload/download programs. The latest
version of the software was on the disk and nowhere else, and luckily
enough, the drive survived, and in another box I was able to extract the
source for future use. I would like to find another of the same
footprint as the ThinkCenter (which came from "PC Warehouse" -- one of
the branches of PC-Retro which was closest to me. I should be able to
find another at one of their other branches which are still open.

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Jan 21, 9:24*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2013-01-21, Michael A. Terrell wrote:











"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-20, Michael A. Terrell ? wrote:
?
? "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
??
?? On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker ? wrote:
?? ? Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.
??
?? * * * * Nice to see real metalworking.

* * * * [ ... ]

? * *Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

* * * * Well ... the cleaning and checking of the machines is complete.

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * Currently waiting through paperwork to get the check from the
insurance company turned into cash to pay people. *Had to get it signed
by the credit union, and the mortgage company wants to hold onto it and
handle disbursements themselves.

* *At least you are making some progress. Keep us informed, and let us
know if you need to replace the computer you used for CNC. *I'm sure
something can be found, unless you want to spring for a new, industrial
grade motheboard with EISA slots.

* * * * Well ... actually, *that* computer survived, though it looks a
bit ugly on the surface which was uppermost. *Soot stains in the paint :-)
It is an HP box with a SATA drive, and no custom boards in it yet. *It
is loaded with LinuxCNC and has a 19" touchscreen monitor hung on it.
2GB RAM, 2.4 GHz CPU. *Linux claims to find 2 CPUs, so it must be a dual
core. :-) *Linux says (in dmesg) among lots of other things:

*================================================= =====================
HP Compaq Laptop series board detected. Selecting BIOS-method for reboots..
*================================================= =====================

even though it is a nice tower case.

* * * * What *did* die was an IBM ThinkCenter (nice small desktop box)
which had Solaris 10 OS installed, and was used to interface to the Emco
Maier Compact-5/CNC lathe to upload/download programs. *The latest
version of the software was on the disk and nowhere else, and luckily
enough, the drive survived, and in another box I was able to extract the
source for future use. *I would like to find another of the same
footprint as the ThinkCenter (which came from "PC Warehouse" -- one of
the branches of PC-Retro which was closest to me. *I should be able to
find another at one of their other branches which are still open.

* * * * Thanks,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
* * * * * * * * * Remove oil spill source from e-mail
*Email: * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Metalworking content in this thread... now dead.

On 2013-01-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 21 Jan 2013 03:31:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-20, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

Nice to see real metalworking.

[ ... ]

Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

Well ... the cleaning and checking of the machines is complete.
Most of the machines came out fine -- after de-surface-rusting and

Excellent!

[ ... ]

Lots of tool holders (30-taper and 40-taper as well as
Aloris style) need de-rusting -- or replacement. All the end mill sets
(normal, two angles of dovetail, and Woodruff key cutters) will need to
be replaced, as well as drill bits -- but waiting about ordering these
until I have a place to put them.

Are you going to try derusting them electrolytically, or what?

I'm going to try the salt and vinegar approach this time for
the tool holders. See how it does. That -- and the hex and square 5C
collets. I've done the electrolytic, but it is a bit of a pain in
mid-winter (actually, so is the salt/vinegar approach -- maybe wait
until spring. :-)

The endmill milling cutters have already been paid for by the
insurance company -- I did not expect them to be any good after
derusting. :-) Not sure what will happen with the wheels for the
horizontal machine. :-)

Currently waiting through paperwork to get the check from the
insurance company turned into cash to pay people. Had to get it signed
by the credit union, and the mortgage company wants to hold onto it and
handle disbursements themselves.

Are they trying to "save you from yourself" or keep any money left
over, I wonder? grumble, grumble

I don't know -- but since things are not happening, I'm tempted
to pay off the mortgage (got the money right now, and what is still due
is low enough), and get the insurance company to re-cut the check with
them off it. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2013-01-21, Gunner wrote:
On 21 Jan 2013 03:31:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-20, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-19, Steve Walker wrote:
Just uploaded some pix to mwdropbox.com.

Nice to see real metalworking.

[ ... ]

Don, how are the repairs to your shop coming along?

[ ... ]

Lots of tool holders (30-taper and 40-taper as well as
Aloris style) need de-rusting -- or replacement. All the end mill sets
(normal, two angles of dovetail, and Woodruff key cutters) will need to
be replaced, as well as drill bits -- but waiting about ordering these
until I have a place to put them.

[ ... ]

rusty endmills and tool holders...will still work just fine after you
hit em with the fine wire wheel. Unless they were stored in a bucket
of salt water for a couple months.

No salt water. I'll see how they clean up -- though I don't
expect anything reasonable in surface finish from the end mills. New
would be better for those -- or at least for the finish pass. :-)

Half the tooling I have at home, came home rusty. Shrug

:-)

But Ill not tell that to your insurance company.


https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422.../ShopDec282012

Added some photos

Too late tonight to wade though it all.

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2013-01-22, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 05:31:17 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 21 Jan 2013 03:31:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

Lots of tool holders (30-taper and 40-taper as well as
Aloris style) need de-rusting -- or replacement. All the end mill sets
(normal, two angles of dovetail, and Woodruff key cutters) will need to
be replaced, as well as drill bits -- but waiting about ordering these
until I have a place to put them.

Are you going to try derusting them electrolytically, or what?

I'm going to try the salt and vinegar approach this time for
the tool holders. See how it does. That -- and the hex and square 5C
collets. I've done the electrolytic, but it is a bit of a pain in
mid-winter (actually, so is the salt/vinegar approach -- maybe wait
until spring. :-)

Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.

Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't
want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus
outdoors operation is called for.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 22 Jan 2013 23:10:09 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-22, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 05:31:17 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 21 Jan 2013 03:31:36 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

Lots of tool holders (30-taper and 40-taper as well as
Aloris style) need de-rusting -- or replacement. All the end mill sets
(normal, two angles of dovetail, and Woodruff key cutters) will need to
be replaced, as well as drill bits -- but waiting about ordering these
until I have a place to put them.

Are you going to try derusting them electrolytically, or what?

I'm going to try the salt and vinegar approach this time for
the tool holders. See how it does. That -- and the hex and square 5C
collets. I've done the electrolytic, but it is a bit of a pain in
mid-winter (actually, so is the salt/vinegar approach -- maybe wait
until spring. :-)

Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.

Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't
want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus
outdoors operation is called for.

What, are you going to be doing all of them at once in a pool-sized
area? Well, whatever you're comfortable with is good, I reckon.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

On 2013-01-23, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 23:10:09 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-22, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 05:31:17 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

I'm going to try the salt and vinegar approach this time for
the tool holders. See how it does. That -- and the hex and square 5C
collets. I've done the electrolytic, but it is a bit of a pain in
mid-winter (actually, so is the salt/vinegar approach -- maybe wait
until spring. :-)

Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.

Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't
want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus
outdoors operation is called for.

What, are you going to be doing all of them at once in a pool-sized
area? Well, whatever you're comfortable with is good, I reckon.

Nope -- as many as I can reasonably put in a container at a
time, but far from all. But in the winter, with no provisions for
exhausting the vapors, I don't want to do this in my shop to start
rusting other things which somehow escaped the rust earlier. And in
the rest of the house -- too many computers running which would suck in
the fumes and corrode printed circuit boards and heat sinks.

Besides -- until I have a place to store the cleaned ones, why
hurry in trying to clean them?

For the Aloris style holders, I'll want to take them apart to
avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals anyway -- especially the centered
adjustable arms knurling holder -- leadscrews, setscrews, dovetail,
hardened pins, and knurling rollers. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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On 23 Jan 2013 03:35:02 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-23, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 23:10:09 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-22, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 05:31:17 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

I'm going to try the salt and vinegar approach this time for
the tool holders. See how it does. That -- and the hex and square 5C
collets. I've done the electrolytic, but it is a bit of a pain in
mid-winter (actually, so is the salt/vinegar approach -- maybe wait
until spring. :-)

Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.

Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't
want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus
outdoors operation is called for.

What, are you going to be doing all of them at once in a pool-sized
area? Well, whatever you're comfortable with is good, I reckon.

Nope -- as many as I can reasonably put in a container at a
time, but far from all. But in the winter, with no provisions for
exhausting the vapors, I don't want to do this in my shop to start
rusting other things which somehow escaped the rust earlier. And in
the rest of the house -- too many computers running which would suck in
the fumes and corrode printed circuit boards and heat sinks.

Besides -- until I have a place to store the cleaned ones, why
hurry in trying to clean them?

For the Aloris style holders, I'll want to take them apart to
avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals anyway -- especially the centered
adjustable arms knurling holder -- leadscrews, setscrews, dovetail,
hardened pins, and knurling rollers. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

The electrolytic method does not produce acid vapors. It's done with
alkali solutions. It won't rust anything in the shop. That's one of
the things that makes it worth the effort. Another good thing is that
it can't attack the base metal. You can leave parts in it for weeks
without worrying about re-rusting or damage to the part (as long as
the electricity is on). Archaeologists sometimes treat old cannons and
other items recovered from undersea excavations for *years* to get the
corrosion off with electrolytic methods. No problem. No damage.

It will eat red rust, but it won't remove black rust very well.
Sometimes it will brush off after electrolytic treatment and sometimes
it won't. Then you need acid, and sometimes phosphoric won't even
remove it. Hydrochloric will do it but don't leave your parts in it
for too long. It will attack the base metal and leave a soft smut if
you leave it in too long. Nitric will do it, too, but it bites into
the base metal very quickly. It's good for a pre-plating dip, but
that's about it. Unless you're using it to etch, that is.

Working with sheet metals, I've had all kinds of cleaning and pickling
solutions in my shop. The acid ones can be really bad on other tools,
even all the way on the other side of the room. I wrecked the face of
a polished planishing hammer from a distance of about 15 feet from a
hydrochloric acid bath when I was starting this hobby. I won't even
use them indoors anymore. But the alkali solutions are safe around
iron and steel.

Scraper

On 23 Jan 2013 03:35:02 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-23, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 23:10:09 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-22, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 05:31:17 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

I'm going to try the salt and vinegar approach this time for
the tool holders. See how it does. That -- and the hex and square 5C
collets. I've done the electrolytic, but it is a bit of a pain in
mid-winter (actually, so is the salt/vinegar approach -- maybe wait
until spring. :-)

Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.

Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't
want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus
outdoors operation is called for.

What, are you going to be doing all of them at once in a pool-sized
area? Well, whatever you're comfortable with is good, I reckon.

Nope -- as many as I can reasonably put in a container at a
time, but far from all. But in the winter, with no provisions for
exhausting the vapors, I don't want to do this in my shop to start
rusting other things which somehow escaped the rust earlier. And in
the rest of the house -- too many computers running which would suck in
the fumes and corrode printed circuit boards and heat sinks.

I don't think a covered container would put all that much acidic vapor
into my house, so that probably wouldn't have entered my mind, except
in passing. I have lots of over-shoebox-sized containers which I've
used for soaking things, and they have loose lids.

Muriatic acid? OUTSIDE! Those chlorine tabs for the terlit corroded
my inkpen in the bathroom drawer, right through the 'impervious'
plastic container and cardboard box. They greened my shaver cord's
plug, too. I keep only paper and the pumice stick in there with 'em
nowadays.


Besides -- until I have a place to store the cleaned ones, why
hurry in trying to clean them?

Good point. g


For the Aloris style holders, I'll want to take them apart to
avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals anyway -- especially the centered
adjustable arms knurling holder -- leadscrews, setscrews, dovetail,
hardened pins, and knurling rollers. :-)

Absolutely.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 18:10:09 -0500, DoN. Nichols
wrote:


Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.

Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't
want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus
outdoors operation is called for.

Enjoy,
DoN.




Also, you gotta be careful of the hydrogen accmulation with electrolytic
derusting - DAMHIKT

On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 09:57:23 -0500, MLightner
wrote:

On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 18:10:09 -0500, DoN. Nichols
wrote:


Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.

Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't
want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus
outdoors operation is called for.

Enjoy,
DoN.




Also, you gotta be careful of the hydrogen accmulation with electrolytic
derusting - DAMHIKT

If you're generating that much hydrogen, you're using too much
amperage.

People seem to think you want a full boil. Actually, you just want
enough to produce a bubble or two.

In archaeological work, they use about 2-10 mA/cm^2 of surface, max.
That's too slow for ordinary de-rusting, but adjust power down until
there are no more than a few bubles being generated at a time. It
works better, although it takes longer. And you won't generate enough
hydrogen to worry about it.

Scraper

On 2013-01-23, Tim M wrote:
On 23 Jan 2013 03:35:02 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-23, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 23:10:09 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-22, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 05:31:17 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

I'm going to try the salt and vinegar approach this time for
the tool holders. See how it does. That -- and the hex and square 5C
collets. I've done the electrolytic, but it is a bit of a pain in
mid-winter (actually, so is the salt/vinegar approach -- maybe wait
until spring. :-)

Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.

Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't
want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus
outdoors operation is called for.

[ ... ]

Besides -- until I have a place to store the cleaned ones, why
hurry in trying to clean them?

For the Aloris style holders, I'll want to take them apart to
avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals anyway -- especially the centered
adjustable arms knurling holder -- leadscrews, setscrews, dovetail,
hardened pins, and knurling rollers. :-)

[ ... ]

The electrolytic method does not produce acid vapors. It's done with
alkali solutions. It won't rust anything in the shop. That's one of
the things that makes it worth the effort. Another good thing is that
it can't attack the base metal. You can leave parts in it for weeks
without worrying about re-rusting or damage to the part (as long as
the electricity is on). Archaeologists sometimes treat old cannons and
other items recovered from undersea excavations for *years* to get the
corrosion off with electrolytic methods. No problem. No damage.

The real pain of the electrolytic method is finding a way to
attach a wire to each individual part being de-rusted. I do remember
that I did it outside when I last did it -- but I think that was really
more because of a lack of space indoors.

Right now -- my preferred lab power supply for that (a Power
Designs one for 0-36V at 0-5A) is keeping my EEPC Netbook running to run
my weather station web page. (It is loaded with linux, not the original
Windows. :-) The original power supply failed not too long ago, and
finding a replacement (19VDC @ 2.2A with a 2.5mm barrel connector) seems
to be a bit tricky. :-)

It will eat red rust, but it won't remove black rust very well.
Sometimes it will brush off after electrolytic treatment and sometimes
it won't. Then you need acid, and sometimes phosphoric won't even
remove it. Hydrochloric will do it but don't leave your parts in it
for too long. It will attack the base metal and leave a soft smut if
you leave it in too long. Nitric will do it, too, but it bites into
the base metal very quickly. It's good for a pre-plating dip, but
that's about it. Unless you're using it to etch, that is.

O.K. Thanks.

Working with sheet metals, I've had all kinds of cleaning and pickling
solutions in my shop. The acid ones can be really bad on other tools,
even all the way on the other side of the room. I wrecked the face of
a polished planishing hammer from a distance of about 15 feet from a
hydrochloric acid bath when I was starting this hobby. I won't even
use them indoors anymore. But the alkali solutions are safe around
iron and steel.

I've used Sulphuric for a pickling solution for a key I made
(and silver soldered together) for my grandfather clock. I also used it
for some large and long threaded nuts to remove the zinc plating prior
to welding them into the legs of a stand I made for my corner notching
shear for leveling. The stand was my first serious welding project. :-)

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 10:04:52 -0500, Tim M wrote:


Also, you gotta be careful of the hydrogen accmulation with electrolytic
derusting - DAMHIKT

If you're generating that much hydrogen, you're using too much
amperage.

It's funny/peculiar, I'd been doing the ER for years always at around the
same current levels and with the same lack of care with regard to making
sparks, and using the same equipment; then one time when I made a spark
there was a bright light and a (rather quiet) boom along with a whoosh of
air reflecting back out of the tub. Maybe there just wasn't as much air
circulation that day...

People seem to think you want a full boil. Actually, you just want
enough to produce a bubble or two.

I usually derust pretty rusty stuff, don't want to have to wait days for
it to be done...)

In archaeological work, they use about 2-10 mA/cm^2 of surface, max.
That's too slow for ordinary de-rusting, but adjust power down until
there are no more than a few bubles being generated at a time. It
works better, although it takes longer. And you won't generate enough
hydrogen to worry about it.

Scraper

Interesting, thanks for the comments.

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Right now -- my preferred lab power supply for that (a Power
Designs one for 0-36V at 0-5A) is keeping my EEPC Netbook running to
run
my weather station web page. (It is loaded with linux, not the
original
Windows. :-) The original power supply failed not too long ago, and
finding a replacement (19VDC @ 2.2A with a 2.5mm barrel connector)
seems
to be a bit tricky. :-)

DoN.

The readily available 19.5V Dell Latitude PA-10 and PA-12 adapters
might work if you have the barrel connector.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

The connector is soldered, under a removeable boot. Ignore the center
wire which communicates data to the laptop. If the data IC fails the
laptop won't run at full speed, though the power is still there, so
maybe you can get a 'bad' one real cheap from a computer store.

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Right now -- my preferred lab power supply for that (a Power
Designs one for 0-36V at 0-5A) is keeping my EEPC Netbook running to
run
my weather station web page. (It is loaded with linux, not the
original
Windows. :-) The original power supply failed not too long ago, and
finding a replacement (19VDC @ 2.2A with a 2.5mm barrel connector)
seems
to be a bit tricky. :-)

DoN.

The readily available 19.5V Dell Latitude PA-10 and PA-12 adapters
might work if you have the barrel connector.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

The connector is soldered, under a removeable boot. Ignore the center
wire which communicates data to the laptop. If the data IC fails the
laptop won't run at full speed, though the power is still there, so
maybe you can get a 'bad' one real cheap from a computer store.


A lot of printer power supplies are 19 V and would work. I may have
one with the right connector/

On 2013-01-24, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Right now -- my preferred lab power supply for that (a Power
Designs one for 0-36V at 0-5A) is keeping my EEPC Netbook running to
run
my weather station web page. (It is loaded with linux, not the
original
Windows. :-) The original power supply failed not too long ago, and
finding a replacement (19VDC @ 2.2A with a 2.5mm barrel connector)
seems
to be a bit tricky. :-)

DoN.

The readily available 19.5V Dell Latitude PA-10 and PA-12 adapters
might work if you have the barrel connector.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

The connector is soldered, under a removeable boot. Ignore the center
wire which communicates data to the laptop. If the data IC fails the
laptop won't run at full speed, though the power is still there, so
maybe you can get a 'bad' one real cheap from a computer store.

Hmmm ... I picked up a "universal" power lump from MicroCenter,
which included the right voltage, and a listing for the maker of the
NetBook -- but it had a series of interchangeable barrel connectors with
a 3-pin input. Apparently a resistor in the connector programs which
output voltage you will get -- but there is no matching connector for
the cable (otherwise I would build my own adaptor using the original
cable and my own resistor to program it). I guess that I could find a
female barrel connector and use that to make the adaptor needed.

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2013-01-24, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Right now -- my preferred lab power supply for that (a Power
Designs one for 0-36V at 0-5A) is keeping my EEPC Netbook running to
run
my weather station web page. (It is loaded with linux, not the
original
Windows. :-) The original power supply failed not too long ago, and
finding a replacement (19VDC @ 2.2A with a 2.5mm barrel connector)
seems
to be a bit tricky. :-)

DoN.

The readily available 19.5V Dell Latitude PA-10 and PA-12 adapters
might work if you have the barrel connector.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

The connector is soldered, under a removeable boot. Ignore the center
wire which communicates data to the laptop. If the data IC fails the
laptop won't run at full speed, though the power is still there, so
maybe you can get a 'bad' one real cheap from a computer store.


A lot of printer power supplies are 19 V and would work. I may have
one with the right connector/

2.5mm? That was the smallest I've yet seen for that much
current. :-)

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 26 Jan 2013 04:17:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2013-01-24, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Right now -- my preferred lab power supply for that (a Power
Designs one for 0-36V at 0-5A) is keeping my EEPC Netbook running to
run
my weather station web page. (It is loaded with linux, not the
original
Windows. :-) The original power supply failed not too long ago, and
finding a replacement (19VDC @ 2.2A with a 2.5mm barrel connector)
seems
to be a bit tricky. :-)

DoN.

The readily available 19.5V Dell Latitude PA-10 and PA-12 adapters
might work if you have the barrel connector.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

The connector is soldered, under a removeable boot. Ignore the center
wire which communicates data to the laptop. If the data IC fails the
laptop won't run at full speed, though the power is still there, so
maybe you can get a 'bad' one real cheap from a computer store.

Hmmm ... I picked up a "universal" power lump from MicroCenter,
which included the right voltage, and a listing for the maker of the
NetBook -- but it had a series of interchangeable barrel connectors with
a 3-pin input. Apparently a resistor in the connector programs which
output voltage you will get -- but there is no matching connector for
the cable (otherwise I would build my own adaptor using the original
cable and my own resistor to program it). I guess that I could find a
female barrel connector and use that to make the adaptor needed.

I recently found out the hard way that RatSnack carried both the M
(5.5x2.1mm) and N (5.5x2.5)size jacks and plugs. I had the wrong size
(M) in my kit when I built my 5ah LED flashlight. The charger was N.
sigh

--
With every experience, you alone are painting your
own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice.
-- Oprah Winfrey

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-24, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Right now -- my preferred lab power supply for that (a Power
Designs one for 0-36V at 0-5A) is keeping my EEPC Netbook running to
run
my weather station web page. (It is loaded with linux, not the
original
Windows. :-) The original power supply failed not too long ago, and
finding a replacement (19VDC @ 2.2A with a 2.5mm barrel connector)
seems
to be a bit tricky. :-)

DoN.

The readily available 19.5V Dell Latitude PA-10 and PA-12 adapters
might work if you have the barrel connector.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

The connector is soldered, under a removeable boot. Ignore the center
wire which communicates data to the laptop. If the data IC fails the
laptop won't run at full speed, though the power is still there, so
maybe you can get a 'bad' one real cheap from a computer store.


A lot of printer power supplies are 19 V and would work. I may have
one with the right connector/

2.5mm? That was the smallest I've yet seen for that much
current. :-)


I have over 500 used & a few new power suplies/wall warts so you
nevver know. The hard ones to find are the 6.3 & larger at high
current.

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-01-24, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Right now -- my preferred lab power supply for that (a Power
Designs one for 0-36V at 0-5A) is keeping my EEPC Netbook running to
run
my weather station web page. (It is loaded with linux, not the
original
Windows. :-) The original power supply failed not too long ago, and
finding a replacement (19VDC @ 2.2A with a 2.5mm barrel connector)
seems
to be a bit tricky. :-)

DoN.

The readily available 19.5V Dell Latitude PA-10 and PA-12 adapters
might work if you have the barrel connector.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

The connector is soldered, under a removeable boot. Ignore the center
wire which communicates data to the laptop. If the data IC fails the
laptop won't run at full speed, though the power is still there, so
maybe you can get a 'bad' one real cheap from a computer store.

Hmmm ... I picked up a "universal" power lump from MicroCenter,
which included the right voltage, and a listing for the maker of the
NetBook -- but it had a series of interchangeable barrel connectors with
a 3-pin input. Apparently a resistor in the connector programs which
output voltage you will get -- but there is no matching connector for
the cable (otherwise I would build my own adaptor using the original
cable and my own resistor to program it). I guess that I could find a
female barrel connector and use that to make the adaptor needed.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/221087937423 $6.59 for a new Asus supply.
"19V-2.1A-AC-Adapter-Battery-Charger-Power-Cord-Supply-For-ASUS-Netbook-Laptop"
It says the pulg is 1.8/2.5

On 2013-01-26, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 26 Jan 2013 04:17:12 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

Hmmm ... I picked up a "universal" power lump from MicroCenter,
which included the right voltage, and a listing for the maker of the
NetBook -- but it had a series of interchangeable barrel connectors with
a 3-pin input. Apparently a resistor in the connector programs which
output voltage you will get -- but there is no matching connector for
the cable (otherwise I would build my own adaptor using the original
cable and my own resistor to program it). I guess that I could find a
female barrel connector and use that to make the adaptor needed.

I recently found out the hard way that RatSnack carried both the M
(5.5x2.1mm) and N (5.5x2.5)size jacks and plugs. I had the wrong size
(M) in my kit when I built my 5ah LED flashlight. The charger was N.
sigh

Your 2.5mm is the ID, while mine has to be 2.5mm OD. The
"universal" supply did have some of the larger sizes, but nothing down
as small as 2.5 mm OD.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---