On 2013-01-23, Tim M wrote:
On 23 Jan 2013 03:35:02 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:
On 2013-01-23, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 23:10:09 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:
On 2013-01-22, Larry Jaques wrote:
On 22 Jan 2013 05:31:17 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:
[ ... ]
I'm going to try the salt and vinegar approach this time for
the tool holders. See how it does. That -- and the hex and square 5C
collets. I've done the electrolytic, but it is a bit of a pain in
mid-winter (actually, so is the salt/vinegar approach -- maybe wait
until spring. :-)
Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.
Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't
want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus
outdoors operation is called for.
[ ... ]
Besides -- until I have a place to store the cleaned ones, why
hurry in trying to clean them?
For the Aloris style holders, I'll want to take them apart to
avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals anyway -- especially the centered
adjustable arms knurling holder -- leadscrews, setscrews, dovetail,
hardened pins, and knurling rollers. :-)
[ ... ]
The electrolytic method does not produce acid vapors. It's done with
alkali solutions. It won't rust anything in the shop. That's one of
the things that makes it worth the effort. Another good thing is that
it can't attack the base metal. You can leave parts in it for weeks
without worrying about re-rusting or damage to the part (as long as
the electricity is on). Archaeologists sometimes treat old cannons and
other items recovered from undersea excavations for *years* to get the
corrosion off with electrolytic methods. No problem. No damage.
The real pain of the electrolytic method is finding a way to
attach a wire to each individual part being de-rusted. I do remember
that I did it outside when I last did it -- but I think that was really
more because of a lack of space indoors.
Right now -- my preferred lab power supply for that (a Power
Designs one for 0-36V at 0-5A) is keeping my EEPC Netbook running to run
my weather station web page. (It is loaded with linux, not the original
Windows. :-) The original power supply failed not too long ago, and
finding a replacement (19VDC @ 2.2A with a 2.5mm barrel connector) seems
to be a bit tricky. :-)
It will eat red rust, but it won't remove black rust very well.
Sometimes it will brush off after electrolytic treatment and sometimes
it won't. Then you need acid, and sometimes phosphoric won't even
remove it. Hydrochloric will do it but don't leave your parts in it
for too long. It will attack the base metal and leave a soft smut if
you leave it in too long. Nitric will do it, too, but it bites into
the base metal very quickly. It's good for a pre-plating dip, but
that's about it. Unless you're using it to etch, that is.
O.K. Thanks.
Working with sheet metals, I've had all kinds of cleaning and pickling
solutions in my shop. The acid ones can be really bad on other tools,
even all the way on the other side of the room. I wrecked the face of
a polished planishing hammer from a distance of about 15 feet from a
hydrochloric acid bath when I was starting this hobby. I won't even
use them indoors anymore. But the alkali solutions are safe around
iron and steel.
I've used Sulphuric for a pickling solution for a key I made
(and silver soldered together) for my grandfather clock. I also used it
for some large and long threaded nuts to remove the zinc plating prior
to welding them into the legs of a stand I made for my corner notching
shear for leveling. The stand was my first serious welding project. :-)
Thanks,
DoN.
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