Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Dec 5, 7:29*pm, Ignoramus6679
wrote:
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

I guess I would use a piece of wood and see it I could scrape out
enough of whatever it is on the wood to determine what it really is.
Obviously it is not coming out on any tooling you have used, so is
pretty hard.

I am guessing his is on a lathe, so is probably swarf that was locked
in by another MT5 tool.

Anyway a wooden broom handle or other wood dowel should be your first
choice to try to clear the problem.

Paul

Iggy,
You need to borrow a MT 5 finish reamer, thoroughly wet the bore with diesel
or kerosene and rotate the reamer lightly. I guess I should have anticipated
this and at least asked the question, sorry. I have one of those as well, if
you do not have a local source.
Steve

"Ignoramus6679" wrote in message
...
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can
do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Ignoramus6679" wrote in message
...
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can
do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/


McMaster # 4864A2

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)


Mark Rand
RTFM

Some sort of crud could be numerous things. You should be able to determine
what's in there that doesn't belong there.

An appropriate soft, improvised tool should be able to remove it. A similar
tool can probably clean the hole.

Maybe you could determine what the stuff isn't.

It's a MT5 after all.

Cydrome should be able to offer an explanation. I hope he doesn't
disappoint.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ignoramus6679" wrote in message
...
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can
do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Ignoramus6679 wrote:

Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

I'd try attacking it with water and a rag, then aromatic solvent and a rag, don't have
spindle under power if rag and finger are in the hole.

Then there is that green dishwashing pad if you want to step up the level of
agressiveness.

Wes

In article ,
Ignoramus6679 wrote:

Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

What I use for crusted oil spooge is mechanical scraping (to get the
bulk off) followed by acetone (which gets the last residue off).
Acetone will also strip paint, so be careful where it splashes or runs.

Then shine a very bright light into the bore and take a look.

I ended up very lightly stoning the inside of the taper to take the
dings and rust spots down, the point being to grind away only the stuff
that sticks up above the surface.

I also used the hi-light blue and selective sanding approach to find and
remove some larger dings.

But do all this with great caution, to not make things worse. The
surfaces need not be pretty to mate properly and yield low runout.

Joe Gwinn

On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK, it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.

On 2008-12-07, Buerste wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk


HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK, it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.



I will definitely buy one Tom.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 21:43:30 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK, it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.

Doh! I thought you were speaking in hexidecimal. Mea culpa.

I should learn not to jump into the end of a conversation.

McMaster sez it's for a die grinder, BUT, max RPM is 1800 and:
"Insert the brush into the workpiece before turning on the power tool
to keep the brush from breaking off and becoming a dangerous
projectile."

Careful with that floppy, Eugene.

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 21:43:30 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK,
it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.

Doh! I thought you were speaking in hexidecimal. Mea culpa.

I should learn not to jump into the end of a conversation.

McMaster sez it's for a die grinder, BUT, max RPM is 1800 and:
"Insert the brush into the workpiece before turning on the power tool
to keep the brush from breaking off and becoming a dangerous
projectile."

Careful with that floppy, Eugene.

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

The max RPM is rated at 1,800 when it's NOT inserted into a bore. You put
it in an air die grinder, insert it into a bore, then hit the throttle. The
spring compresses and the wire flares out like an umbrella. Then you run it
up and down the bore, it self centers. Kill the throttle and stop the die
grinder while it's still in the bore, the spring expands and encloses the
wire again, then pull the spring brush out.

I've tested these up to 2,600 free of a bore and it whips around and could
easily break and kill you if it were to run faster. Usually, the load on a
die grinder with the brush whipping around prevents the die grinder from
going very fast. It's one of those magic tools that works well when used
right but could be dangerous in the wrong hands...I won't let my nephew play
with one!

One of my better ideas, I sell about 5,000/month. (helps make up for my
many, many stupid ideas)

"Ignoramus6012" wrote in message
...
On 2008-12-07, Buerste wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk


HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK,
it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the
next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy
Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.



I will definitely buy one Tom.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

If you want to wait until January, I'll send you a freebe.

The max RPM is rated at 1,800 when it's NOT inserted into a bore. You put
it in an air die grinder, insert it into a bore, then hit the throttle. The
spring compresses and the wire flares out like an umbrella. Then you run it
up and down the bore, it self centers. Kill the throttle and stop the die
grinder while it's still in the bore, the spring expands and encloses the
wire again, then pull the spring brush out.

I've tested these up to 2,600 free of a bore and it whips around and could
easily break and kill you if it were to run faster. Usually, the load on a
die grinder with the brush whipping around prevents the die grinder from
going very fast. It's one of those magic tools that works well when used
right but could be dangerous in the wrong hands...I won't let my nephew play
with one!

One of my better ideas, I sell about 5,000/month. (helps make up for my
many, many stupid ideas)

Buerste wrote:
"Ignoramus6012" wrote in message
...
On 2008-12-07, Buerste wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2

He He He :-)
Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk

HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK,
it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the
next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy
Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.


I will definitely buy one Tom.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

If you want to wait until January, I'll send you a freebe.

The max RPM is rated at 1,800 when it's NOT inserted into a bore. You put
it in an air die grinder, insert it into a bore, then hit the throttle. The
spring compresses and the wire flares out like an umbrella. Then you run it
up and down the bore, it self centers. Kill the throttle and stop the die
grinder while it's still in the bore, the spring expands and encloses the
wire again, then pull the spring brush out.

I've tested these up to 2,600 free of a bore and it whips around and could
easily break and kill you if it were to run faster. Usually, the load on a
die grinder with the brush whipping around prevents the die grinder from
going very fast. It's one of those magic tools that works well when used
right but could be dangerous in the wrong hands...I won't let my nephew play
with one!

One of my better ideas, I sell about 5,000/month. (helps make up for my
many, many stupid ideas)



Neat tool. How flexible are the bristles?
I'm wondering if it would work to clean the EGR passages on engines.
They are irregular shaped and the usual method is to use a small
scraper, wires and brushes. Something that would reach into the bore and
then open during use could be handy.

I did come up with a unique way to clean the EGR tubes used on some
vehicles. A bore snake does an OK job.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

On Dec 6, 5:02*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,

What I use for crusted oil spooge is mechanical scraping (to get the
bulk off) followed by acetone (which gets the last residue off). *
Acetone will also strip paint, so be careful where it splashes or runs.
...
Joe Gwinn

On easily examined exterior surfaces I've had good luck with an
aluminum scraper, then scrubbing with kero and fine steel wool until
shiny metal appears. Usually the function of a precision surface isn't
harmed by a few low spots although it's hard to take off even 0.0001"
with fine steel wool. I think the crust on old machines might be
polymerized lard oil.

Jim Wilkins

On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 01:21:11 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 21:43:30 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"

HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK,
it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.

Doh! I thought you were speaking in hexidecimal. Mea culpa.

I should learn not to jump into the end of a conversation.

McMaster sez it's for a die grinder, BUT, max RPM is 1800 and:
"Insert the brush into the workpiece before turning on the power tool
to keep the brush from breaking off and becoming a dangerous
projectile."

Careful with that floppy, Eugene.

The max RPM is rated at 1,800 when it's NOT inserted into a bore. You put
it in an air die grinder, insert it into a bore, then hit the throttle. The
spring compresses and the wire flares out like an umbrella. Then you run it
up and down the bore, it self centers. Kill the throttle and stop the die
grinder while it's still in the bore, the spring expands and encloses the
wire again, then pull the spring brush out.

Very cool.


I've tested these up to 2,600 free of a bore and it whips around and could
easily break and kill you if it were to run faster. Usually, the load on a
die grinder with the brush whipping around prevents the die grinder from
going very fast. It's one of those magic tools that works well when used
right but could be dangerous in the wrong hands...I won't let my nephew play
with one!

Send one (oops, misplaced the instruction sheet) to stryped, please.
It just might lessen the number of trolls who taunt us, wot?


One of my better ideas, I sell about 5,000/month. (helps make up for my
many, many stupid ideas)

Lesbians are creative critters, aren't they? My NoteSHADE is not
original but is the perfect (titter) upgrade to an old idea using
modern materials.

--
At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel)
the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash.
--Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot

On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 01:23:33 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:

-snip of McMaster thread-

"Ignoramus6012" wrote in message
m...

I will definitely buy one Tom.


If you want to wait until January, I'll send you a freebe.

Ooh, are "Me, Too"s allowed here? They sound like the perfect
roto-rooter tool for short lengths of rusted pipe/tubing.

P.S: Have you tried them inside square tubing? Do they work well, OK,
poorly, or just self-destruct in seconds?

--
At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel)
the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash.
--Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot

"Steve W." wrote in message ...
Buerste wrote:
"Ignoramus6012" wrote in message
...
On 2008-12-07, Buerste wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2

He He He :-)
Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk

HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore.
OK,
it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the
next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy
Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.


I will definitely buy one Tom.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

If you want to wait until January, I'll send you a freebe.

The max RPM is rated at 1,800 when it's NOT inserted into a bore. You
put
it in an air die grinder, insert it into a bore, then hit the throttle.
The
spring compresses and the wire flares out like an umbrella. Then you run
it
up and down the bore, it self centers. Kill the throttle and stop the
die
grinder while it's still in the bore, the spring expands and encloses the
wire again, then pull the spring brush out.

I've tested these up to 2,600 free of a bore and it whips around and
could
easily break and kill you if it were to run faster. Usually, the load on
a
die grinder with the brush whipping around prevents the die grinder from
going very fast. It's one of those magic tools that works well when used
right but could be dangerous in the wrong hands...I won't let my nephew
play
with one!

One of my better ideas, I sell about 5,000/month. (helps make up for my
many, many stupid ideas)



Neat tool. How flexible are the bristles?
I'm wondering if it would work to clean the EGR passages on engines.
They are irregular shaped and the usual method is to use a small
scraper, wires and brushes. Something that would reach into the bore and
then open during use could be handy.

I did come up with a unique way to clean the EGR tubes used on some
vehicles. A bore snake does an OK job.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000
Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

What's the diameter? They work on bores, round or irregular, from about
5/8" to 4". A lot of them go to diesel motor rebuilders.

In article , Ignoramus6679 wrote:
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

I would start with increasingly aggressive solvents to dissolve as much
as you can. This is guaranteed not to mess up the bore. Then, I'd get
(preferably borrow) the right Spin-L-Mate to clean up what's left. They
are specifically designed for this job, there are three different grades
of wipers to deal with different levels of gunk, and they work well. The
only downside is that they cost $$. A #5 MT is $133, and from the sounds
of it, you may need to get a set of the heavy duty blades. Note: for
some reason the factory wants a LOT less $$ than MSC.

Doug White

Buerste wrote:

Neat tool. How flexible are the bristles?
I'm wondering if it would work to clean the EGR passages on engines.
They are irregular shaped and the usual method is to use a small
scraper, wires and brushes. Something that would reach into the bore and
then open during use could be handy.

I did come up with a unique way to clean the EGR tubes used on some
vehicles. A bore snake does an OK job.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York



What's the diameter? They work on bores, round or irregular, from about
5/8" to 4". A lot of them go to diesel motor rebuilders.



Cross section on the passages would be about 1". Sounds like they may
work well. The EGR tubes run from 3/8" up to 3/4" on those I would love
to find a brush similar to a bore snake only using stainless bristles
and having more bristle sections. I made up one out of bore brushes
attached by small chain. It worked good and was easy to clean. BUT to
have made one in each size would have been expensive. If you can't
picture it think of a set of 4 chimney brushes connected with chains.
Just a lot smaller.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

Cross section on the passages would be about 1". Sounds like they may
work well. The EGR tubes run from 3/8" up to 3/4" on those I would love
to find a brush similar to a bore snake only using stainless bristles
and having more bristle sections. I made up one out of bore brushes
attached by small chain. It worked good and was easy to clean. BUT to
have made one in each size would have been expensive. If you can't
picture it think of a set of 4 chimney brushes connected with chains.
Just a lot smaller.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


speaking of cleaning bores - if there was a way to clean the air injection
ports on my 993 with some kind of cool brush like thing, that would be a
great boon - and it would be something that could be sold widely - these
cars are infamous for having carbon block the ports, leading to a MIL light
and then (if you are the typical "clean hands" type owner), a $10,000
service charge to pull engine, pull heads, and rebuild.

the ports are between 3/16 and 1/4 inch in diameter and are above the valve
stems, so you can see them (barely) once the exhaust manifold is pulled.
they go into passages cast in the head and the carbon builds up in these
twisty little passages. There are FAQs on the web about how to clean using
injector cleaner, but this is not totally effective.

There is access by going up into the ports (around the valve stem), and
there is an aprox 3/8 ID tube that carries air into the heads for
injection - but I have no idea what the internals of the passages in the
heads look like. the "mini-snakes" I have been able to build won't clean it
out, though on occasion high pressure air and enough solvent will.

here is a link to a FAQ about this with some photos that may help explain
http://p-car.com/diy/sai/1/sai.htm
http://www.systemsc.com/pictures.htm
http://66.236.61.177/showthread.php?t=313946
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sQYi3iCMw4

It appears that these guys
http://www.turbowerx.com/Diagnostics...iagnostic.html
must have tried to develop a software way to bypass the SAI monitoring -
sure looks like they got shut down by EPA

so, here is a new project for those who are inventive and knowlegable.

Bill Noble wrote:
Cross section on the passages would be about 1". Sounds like they may
work well. The EGR tubes run from 3/8" up to 3/4" on those I would love
to find a brush similar to a bore snake only using stainless bristles
and having more bristle sections. I made up one out of bore brushes
attached by small chain. It worked good and was easy to clean. BUT to
have made one in each size would have been expensive. If you can't
picture it think of a set of 4 chimney brushes connected with chains.
Just a lot smaller.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


speaking of cleaning bores - if there was a way to clean the air injection
ports on my 993 with some kind of cool brush like thing, that would be a
great boon - and it would be something that could be sold widely - these
cars are infamous for having carbon block the ports, leading to a MIL light
and then (if you are the typical "clean hands" type owner), a $10,000
service charge to pull engine, pull heads, and rebuild.

the ports are between 3/16 and 1/4 inch in diameter and are above the valve
stems, so you can see them (barely) once the exhaust manifold is pulled.
they go into passages cast in the head and the carbon builds up in these
twisty little passages. There are FAQs on the web about how to clean using
injector cleaner, but this is not totally effective.

There is access by going up into the ports (around the valve stem), and
there is an aprox 3/8 ID tube that carries air into the heads for
injection - but I have no idea what the internals of the passages in the
heads look like. the "mini-snakes" I have been able to build won't clean it
out, though on occasion high pressure air and enough solvent will.

here is a link to a FAQ about this with some photos that may help explain
http://p-car.com/diy/sai/1/sai.htm
http://www.systemsc.com/pictures.htm
http://66.236.61.177/showthread.php?t=313946
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sQYi3iCMw4

It appears that these guys
http://www.turbowerx.com/Diagnostics...iagnostic.html
must have tried to develop a software way to bypass the SAI monitoring -
sure looks like they got shut down by EPA

so, here is a new project for those who are inventive and knowlegable.



I know most of the online stuff uses injector cleaner. The problem is
that injector cleaner isn't designed for true carbon deposits.
What you want is GM top cylinder cleaner. It is made to dissolve carbon.

It is the same problem that the 4.3 and a couple other GM engines have.
The carbon builds up and a chunk breaks loose and blocks the passages. I
use the top cylinder cleaner once a year to clear out the crud on my own
vehicles and it is one of the things I use in the shop for the same
reason. The stuff actually works.

I can count the chemicals in the shop that work as advertised on both
hands. Many of them are crap.
However Sea Foam, GM top cylinder cleaner, Break Free, and Techron
injector cleaner have FAR exceeded what the claims are in my experience.

On the subject of brushes it sounds like you have specific uses as well.
In your case you can only reach one end so a flexible twisted wire brush
would be good. Look at the brushes sold to clean out spray guns.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 01:23:33 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:

-snip of McMaster thread-

"Ignoramus6012" wrote in message
om...

I will definitely buy one Tom.


If you want to wait until January, I'll send you a freebe.

Ooh, are "Me, Too"s allowed here? They sound like the perfect
roto-rooter tool for short lengths of rusted pipe/tubing.

P.S: Have you tried them inside square tubing? Do they work well, OK,
poorly, or just self-destruct in seconds?

--
At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel)
the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash.
--Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot

Email me your ship-to address and constantly remind me...I have the
attention span of a goldfish.

On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 19:42:55 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 01:23:33 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:

-snip of McMaster thread-

"Ignoramus6012" wrote in message
news:IYWdnVh6MqxooabUnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@giganews. com...

I will definitely buy one Tom.


If you want to wait until January, I'll send you a freebe.

Ooh, are "Me, Too"s allowed here? They sound like the perfect
roto-rooter tool for short lengths of rusted pipe/tubing.

P.S: Have you tried them inside square tubing? Do they work well, OK,
poorly, or just self-destruct in seconds?

No answer to these two questions?


Email me your ship-to address and constantly remind me...I have the
attention span of a goldfish.

That long? Will do, Tawm. Gracias, mein monsieur.

--
At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel)
the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash.
--Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot

On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 19:42:55 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 01:23:33 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:

Email me your ship-to address and constantly remind me...I have the
attention span of a goldfish.

I would but your email bounced. sigh
Try lj3 at the above addy after fixing the V, please.

--
At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel)
the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash.
--Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot

On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 13:01:33 -0800, "Bill Noble"
wrote:


Cross section on the passages would be about 1". Sounds like they may
work well. The EGR tubes run from 3/8" up to 3/4" on those I would love
to find a brush similar to a bore snake only using stainless bristles
and having more bristle sections. I made up one out of bore brushes
attached by small chain. It worked good and was easy to clean. BUT to
have made one in each size would have been expensive. If you can't
picture it think of a set of 4 chimney brushes connected with chains.
Just a lot smaller.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


speaking of cleaning bores - if there was a way to clean the air injection
ports on my 993 with some kind of cool brush like thing, that would be a
great boon - and it would be something that could be sold widely - these
cars are infamous for having carbon block the ports, leading to a MIL light
and then (if you are the typical "clean hands" type owner), a $10,000
service charge to pull engine, pull heads, and rebuild.

the ports are between 3/16 and 1/4 inch in diameter and are above the valve
stems, so you can see them (barely) once the exhaust manifold is pulled.
they go into passages cast in the head and the carbon builds up in these
twisty little passages. There are FAQs on the web about how to clean using
injector cleaner, but this is not totally effective.

There is access by going up into the ports (around the valve stem), and
there is an aprox 3/8 ID tube that carries air into the heads for
injection - but I have no idea what the internals of the passages in the
heads look like. the "mini-snakes" I have been able to build won't clean it
out, though on occasion high pressure air and enough solvent will.

here is a link to a FAQ about this with some photos that may help explain
http://p-car.com/diy/sai/1/sai.htm
http://www.systemsc.com/pictures.htm
http://66.236.61.177/showthread.php?t=313946
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sQYi3iCMw4

It appears that these guys
http://www.turbowerx.com/Diagnostics...iagnostic.html
must have tried to develop a software way to bypass the SAI monitoring -
sure looks like they got shut down by EPA

so, here is a new project for those who are inventive and knowlegable.

Consider
http://www.slip2000.com/carbonkiller.html
This stuff dissolves carbon RFN. Don't know if it's suitable for
engine passages but it works amazingly well on guns.

" so, here is a new project for those who are inventive and knowlegable.



I know most of the online stuff uses injector cleaner. The problem is
that injector cleaner isn't designed for true carbon deposits.
What you want is GM top cylinder cleaner. It is made to dissolve carbon.

It is the same problem that the 4.3 and a couple other GM engines have.
The carbon builds up and a chunk breaks loose and blocks the passages. I
use the top cylinder cleaner once a year to clear out the crud on my own
vehicles and it is one of the things I use in the shop for the same
reason. The stuff actually works.

I can count the chemicals in the shop that work as advertised on both
hands. Many of them are crap.
However Sea Foam, GM top cylinder cleaner, Break Free, and Techron
injector cleaner have FAR exceeded what the claims are in my experience.

On the subject of brushes it sounds like you have specific uses as well.
In your case you can only reach one end so a flexible twisted wire brush
would be good. Look at the brushes sold to clean out spray guns.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


so, what is Sea Foam good for? I have a car that is painted Sea Foam Green,
so I have a natrual tendancy to think
of it as just green paint

thanks for the tip on top cleaner, I'll see if I can find som

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...


Ooh, are "Me, Too"s allowed here? They sound like the perfect
roto-rooter tool for short lengths of rusted pipe/tubing.

P.S: Have you tried them inside square tubing? Do they work well, OK,
poorly, or just self-destruct in seconds?

No answer to these two questions?



I don't have time to extensively test products and I don't want to expose my
people to all the danger. So, I send them to unsuspecting fools to try
different applications and hope they survive to report their findings.
Well, you are going to try them on square tubing for me? Let me know how it
works out.

Bill Noble wrote:
" so, here is a new project for those who are inventive and knowlegable.

I know most of the online stuff uses injector cleaner. The problem is
that injector cleaner isn't designed for true carbon deposits.
What you want is GM top cylinder cleaner. It is made to dissolve carbon.

It is the same problem that the 4.3 and a couple other GM engines have.
The carbon builds up and a chunk breaks loose and blocks the passages. I
use the top cylinder cleaner once a year to clear out the crud on my own
vehicles and it is one of the things I use in the shop for the same
reason. The stuff actually works.

I can count the chemicals in the shop that work as advertised on both
hands. Many of them are crap.
However Sea Foam, GM top cylinder cleaner, Break Free, and Techron
injector cleaner have FAR exceeded what the claims are in my experience.

On the subject of brushes it sounds like you have specific uses as well.
In your case you can only reach one end so a flexible twisted wire brush
would be good. Look at the brushes sold to clean out spray guns.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


so, what is Sea Foam good for? I have a car that is painted Sea Foam Green,
so I have a natrual tendancy to think
of it as just green paint

thanks for the tip on top cleaner, I'll see if I can find som



Sea Foam is a great cleaner for small engines and 2 strokes. It also
works as a fuel system cleaner. Not cheap but it has cleaned deposits
that nothing else touched.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

Ignoramus6679 wrote:
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

Believe it or not, a sharp pocket knife will do a good job. Good
illumination and spotting blue dye is very helpful in detecting the high
spots. Clean both parts, and apply a VERY thin layer of dye to the male
taper. Insert lightly and twist a bit. You should get spots of dye on
all the high spots. Burrs can be gently scraped away with the knife
blade with little risk of gouging into the taper. if you have big rings
of galled metal due to spinning a tight arbor in the taper, that is
harder to fix, and may require just removing that entire ring.

You'd be amazed how much a few tiny dings will affect the seating and
grip of the arbor. Usually, though, they don't affect the alignment all
that much.

Jon

On Mon, 8 Dec 2008 08:18:00 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .


Ooh, are "Me, Too"s allowed here? They sound like the perfect
roto-rooter tool for short lengths of rusted pipe/tubing.

P.S: Have you tried them inside square tubing? Do they work well, OK,
poorly, or just self-destruct in seconds?

No answer to these two questions?



I don't have time to extensively test products and I don't want to expose my
people to all the danger. So, I send them to unsuspecting fools to try
different applications and hope they survive to report their findings.
Well, you are going to try them on square tubing for me? Let me know how it
works out.

Fine. What does my Hazardous Duty pay come to again? Maybe I'll be
able to afford another of your wondrous naughty wire brushes.

--
At current market valuations (GM is worth less than Mattel)
the Chinese government can afford to buy GM with petty cash.
--Bertel Shmitt on kencan7 blogspot

so, what is Sea Foam good for? I have a car that is painted Sea Foam
Green,
so I have a natrual tendancy to think
of it as just green paint

thanks for the tip on top cleaner, I'll see if I can find som



Sea Foam is a great cleaner for small engines and 2 strokes. It also
works as a fuel system cleaner. Not cheap but it has cleaned deposits
that nothing else touched.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


well, that is interesting - do you think it will work to remove
congealed/hardened gas? I have a older Porsche (1956 356A) that I let sit
for a few years and the gas congealed - I pumped out the gas tank and redid
the inside with sloshing compound, but I haven't attempted to clean out the
fuel lines yet - I was imagining spray carb cleaner and a little mini
roter-rooter - is sea foam a better choice?

Bill Noble wrote:
so, what is Sea Foam good for? I have a car that is painted Sea Foam
Green,
so I have a natrual tendancy to think
of it as just green paint

thanks for the tip on top cleaner, I'll see if I can find som


Sea Foam is a great cleaner for small engines and 2 strokes. It also
works as a fuel system cleaner. Not cheap but it has cleaned deposits
that nothing else touched.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


well, that is interesting - do you think it will work to remove
congealed/hardened gas? I have a older Porsche (1956 356A) that I let sit
for a few years and the gas congealed - I pumped out the gas tank and redid
the inside with sloshing compound, but I haven't attempted to clean out the
fuel lines yet - I was imagining spray carb cleaner and a little mini
roter-rooter - is sea foam a better choice?



Best thing for old gooey gas is straight lacquer thinner.
Sea Foam would work but it's a lot of expense for that use.

BUT make sure that you can open both ends of the line and that no
expensive rubber/plastic pieces get a bath in the thinner. It will clean
out any of the crud and leave the system dry and ready to rust as well.
As soon as you get it cleaned out I would pump some trans fluid or other
thin oil through the lines to keep them from rusting while you work on
the rest of the vehicle.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

At wood working stores and websites they sell strong plastic reamers.
It is a morse - you select. There is a 'sharp' edge that scrapes and
cleans off everything. Traps it in a slot at the scraper edge.

Martin

Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus6679 wrote:
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I
can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.
Believe it or not, a sharp pocket knife will do a good job. Good
illumination and spotting blue dye is very helpful in detecting the high
spots. Clean both parts, and apply a VERY thin layer of dye to the male
taper. Insert lightly and twist a bit. You should get spots of dye on
all the high spots. Burrs can be gently scraped away with the knife
blade with little risk of gouging into the taper. if you have big rings
of galled metal due to spinning a tight arbor in the taper, that is
harder to fix, and may require just removing that entire ring.

You'd be amazed how much a few tiny dings will affect the seating and
grip of the arbor. Usually, though, they don't affect the alignment all
that much.

Jon