Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

--
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On Dec 5, 7:29*pm, Ignoramus6679
wrote:
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

I guess I would use a piece of wood and see it I could scrape out
enough of whatever it is on the wood to determine what it really is.
Obviously it is not coming out on any tooling you have used, so is
pretty hard.

I am guessing his is on a lathe, so is probably swarf that was locked
in by another MT5 tool.

Anyway a wooden broom handle or other wood dowel should be your first
choice to try to clear the problem.

Paul

Iggy,
You need to borrow a MT 5 finish reamer, thoroughly wet the bore with diesel
or kerosene and rotate the reamer lightly. I guess I should have anticipated
this and at least asked the question, sorry. I have one of those as well, if
you do not have a local source.
Steve

"Ignoramus6679" wrote in message
...
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can
do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Ignoramus6679" wrote in message
...
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can
do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
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McMaster # 4864A2

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)


Mark Rand
RTFM

On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK, it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 21:43:30 -0500, the infamous "Buerste"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK, it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.

Doh! I thought you were speaking in hexidecimal. Mea culpa.

I should learn not to jump into the end of a conversation.

McMaster sez it's for a die grinder, BUT, max RPM is 1800 and:
"Insert the brush into the workpiece before turning on the power tool
to keep the brush from breaking off and becoming a dangerous
projectile."

Careful with that floppy, Eugene.

--
Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across
thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.
-- Helen Keller

On 2008-12-07, Buerste wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 09:02:01 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 02:23:40 -0500, "Buerste" wrote:

4864A2


He He He :-)

Is Tawmy boy putting hexes on folks lately? tsk tsk tsk


HEY....McMaster's 4864a2 is the perfect thing to clean out the bore. OK, it
just happens to be one of my inventions. I'd offer one to Ig but the next
batch isn't scheduled for production until January and Old Tommy Hubbart's
cupboard is bare.



I will definitely buy one Tom.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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Some sort of crud could be numerous things. You should be able to determine
what's in there that doesn't belong there.

An appropriate soft, improvised tool should be able to remove it. A similar
tool can probably clean the hole.

Maybe you could determine what the stuff isn't.

It's a MT5 after all.

Cydrome should be able to offer an explanation. I hope he doesn't
disappoint.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ignoramus6679" wrote in message
...
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can
do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Ignoramus6679 wrote:

Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

I'd try attacking it with water and a rag, then aromatic solvent and a rag, don't have
spindle under power if rag and finger are in the hole.

Then there is that green dishwashing pad if you want to step up the level of
agressiveness.

Wes

In article ,
Ignoramus6679 wrote:

Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

What I use for crusted oil spooge is mechanical scraping (to get the
bulk off) followed by acetone (which gets the last residue off).
Acetone will also strip paint, so be careful where it splashes or runs.

Then shine a very bright light into the bore and take a look.

I ended up very lightly stoning the inside of the taper to take the
dings and rust spots down, the point being to grind away only the stuff
that sticks up above the surface.

I also used the hi-light blue and selective sanding approach to find and
remove some larger dings.

But do all this with great caution, to not make things worse. The
surfaces need not be pretty to mate properly and yield low runout.

Joe Gwinn

On Dec 6, 5:02*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,

What I use for crusted oil spooge is mechanical scraping (to get the
bulk off) followed by acetone (which gets the last residue off). *
Acetone will also strip paint, so be careful where it splashes or runs.
...
Joe Gwinn

On easily examined exterior surfaces I've had good luck with an
aluminum scraper, then scrubbing with kero and fine steel wool until
shiny metal appears. Usually the function of a precision surface isn't
harmed by a few low spots although it's hard to take off even 0.0001"
with fine steel wool. I think the crust on old machines might be
polymerized lard oil.

Jim Wilkins

In article , Ignoramus6679 wrote:
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

I would start with increasingly aggressive solvents to dissolve as much
as you can. This is guaranteed not to mess up the bore. Then, I'd get
(preferably borrow) the right Spin-L-Mate to clean up what's left. They
are specifically designed for this job, there are three different grades
of wipers to deal with different levels of gunk, and they work well. The
only downside is that they cost $$. A #5 MT is $133, and from the sounds
of it, you may need to get a set of the heavy duty blades. Note: for
some reason the factory wants a LOT less $$ than MSC.

Doug White

Ignoramus6679 wrote:
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.

Believe it or not, a sharp pocket knife will do a good job. Good
illumination and spotting blue dye is very helpful in detecting the high
spots. Clean both parts, and apply a VERY thin layer of dye to the male
taper. Insert lightly and twist a bit. You should get spots of dye on
all the high spots. Burrs can be gently scraped away with the knife
blade with little risk of gouging into the taper. if you have big rings
of galled metal due to spinning a tight arbor in the taper, that is
harder to fix, and may require just removing that entire ring.

You'd be amazed how much a few tiny dings will affect the seating and
grip of the arbor. Usually, though, they don't affect the alignment all
that much.

Jon

At wood working stores and websites they sell strong plastic reamers.
It is a morse - you select. There is a 'sharp' edge that scrapes and
cleans off everything. Traps it in a slot at the scraper edge.

Martin

Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus6679 wrote:
Thanks to Steve's, he lent me a MT5 test bar. It fits into MT5 opening
in the spindle. My problem is that there is some sort of crud (or
rust) in it and the bar does not seem to be well aligned. So I would
like to remove that crud by some non-intrusive means, any ideas how I
can do
it without runing the accuracy potential of the spindle.
Believe it or not, a sharp pocket knife will do a good job. Good
illumination and spotting blue dye is very helpful in detecting the high
spots. Clean both parts, and apply a VERY thin layer of dye to the male
taper. Insert lightly and twist a bit. You should get spots of dye on
all the high spots. Burrs can be gently scraped away with the knife
blade with little risk of gouging into the taper. if you have big rings
of galled metal due to spinning a tight arbor in the taper, that is
harder to fix, and may require just removing that entire ring.

You'd be amazed how much a few tiny dings will affect the seating and
grip of the arbor. Usually, though, they don't affect the alignment all
that much.

Jon