(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)

A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And
a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not
researching hinges before starting the project.

I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the
sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a
cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside
dim of the cabinet.

I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
going to be very secure.

I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and
Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
admittedly crude drawing at

http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif

--

Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote in message
...
(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)

A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And
a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not
researching hinges before starting the project.

I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the
sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a
cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside
dim of the cabinet.

I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
going to be very secure.

I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and
Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
admittedly crude drawing at

http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif

--

Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

Would something like this work?

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...erings_id=1159

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...d=345&catid=21

try this link:
http://www.richelieu.com/produits/po...t.php?id=11889
might be good for what you need
Chris Melanson
BLH Millwork LTD.
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote in message
...
(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)

A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And a
little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not
researching hinges before starting the project.

I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the
sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a cabinet
door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside dim of the
cabinet.

I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
going to be very secure.

I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that 2''
utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and Lowe's
have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my admittedly crude
drawing at

http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif

--

Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
fingers to keys, and typed the following:

(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)

A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here.
And a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by
not researching hinges before starting the project.

I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above
the sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a
cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside
dim of the cabinet.

I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into
the edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that
this is going to be very secure.

I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD
and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
admittedly crude drawing at

http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif


I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of
the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material.
But here's a look at some like your drawing:
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_hinge_types.php

On 12/11/2004 2:00 PM willshak wrote:

On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
fingers to keys, and typed the following:

(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)

snip

I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD
and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
admittedly crude drawing at

http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif



I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of
the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material.
But here's a look at some like your drawing:
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_hinge_types.php

Great page to help the newbie w/ hinges! Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I
want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible. That's why
something like a regular utility hinge with folded-back wing on the
frame side seems so attractive, because the knuckle will lay against the
wall.

But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF.
The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall
poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my
woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship, I
would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the screws,
even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come loose a
few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the frame rather
than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm just ascribing
to MDF the weakness of particle board?

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

On 12/11/2004 5:32 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
fingers to keys, and typed the following:

On 12/11/2004 2:00 PM willshak wrote:

On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
fingers to keys, and typed the following:

(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)


snip

I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like
that 2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The
local HD and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please
see my admittedly crude drawing at

http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif




I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of
the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material.
But here's a look at some like your drawing:
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_hinge_types.php


Great page to help the newbie w/ hinges! Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and
I want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible. That's
why something like a regular utility hinge with folded-back wing on
the frame side seems so attractive, because the knuckle will lay
against the wall.

But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF.
The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall
poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my
woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship,
I would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the
screws, even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come
loose a few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the
frame rather than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm
just ascribing to MDF the weakness of particle board?

If you are going to use the 1/2" hinge screws into the MDF ends, then
yes, they may pull out. But, you are going into the MDF at its greatest
depth. You can use 1-1/2" or longer screws and probably be able to hang
yourself from the doors, or at least bend the hinges trying. :-).

On 12/11/2004 2:56 PM willshak wrote:

On 12/11/2004 5:32 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
fingers to keys, and typed the following:

snip

But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF.
The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall
poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my
woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship,
I would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the
screws, even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come
loose a few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the
frame rather than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm
just ascribing to MDF the weakness of particle board?


If you are going to use the 1/2" hinge screws into the MDF ends, then
yes, they may pull out. But, you are going into the MDF at its greatest
depth. You can use 1-1/2" or longer screws and probably be able to hang
yourself from the doors, or at least bend the hinges trying. :-).


Sounds like a plan!

Sound of me hanging myself from the doors: Hungghhh!

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

In article ,
says...
Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I
want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible.

How about those "barrel" hinges where you drill a hole in each piece,
insert the hinges, and tighten a screw to expand the inge tightly
against the material. Completely hidden and, IIRC, 180 degree opening.

The more expensive route might be Soss hinges.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

On 12/11/2004 4:27 PM Larry Blanchard wrote:

In article ,
says...

Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I
want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible.


How about those "barrel" hinges where you drill a hole in each piece,
insert the hinges, and tighten a screw to expand the inge tightly
against the material. Completely hidden and, IIRC, 180 degree opening.

Interesting hinge. I took a look at the pdf over at rockler.com

http://www.rockler.com/tech/28555.pdf

They have "some possible applications" sketches on bottom of the first
page. Mine looks like the leftmost sketch.

So lemme get this straight -- with something like a metric Forstner bit,
you drill a hole into the edge of the cabinet side and the rear of the
door. Shove these puppys in and tighten the screw to expand the body.
Pretty clever!

I don't want to split the MDF on the edge of the cabinet. When the screw
is tightened, how does the barrel expand? Looking at the upper right
sketch on the Rockler pdf ("Tightening Screw"): does the barrel expand
vertically (on that picture) or horizontally. Or just get fatter all
'round? I wonder if the barrel presses against the thin side of the
barrel hole, or against the thick side.

The more expensive route might be Soss hinges.

Yep -- those are mighty pretty hinges.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)





I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
going to be very secure.


http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif


If it is not too late in the project you may try adding reinforcement to
the MDF. Drill a hole into the MDF and insert a hardwood dowel. Then
screw the hinges into the dowel.
Just my $0.02

On 12/11/2004 6:15 PM John wrote:

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)





I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into
the edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that
this is going to be very secure.


http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif


If it is not too late in the project you may try adding reinforcement to
the MDF. Drill a hole into the MDF and insert a hardwood dowel. Then
screw the hinges into the dowel.
Just my $0.02

Worth more than $0.02, I reckon. Good advice is priceless - especially
when it is offered for free. Thank you.

--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

"dust Proof Kitchen Cabinet Hinges" are similar to your drawing, However
Screwing into the edge of MDF does not present a problem and give a good
fixing if you drill a pilot hole first. Use a narrow gauge screw and
make the pilot hole at least as deep as the screw. Use a screw that is
1 - 1 3/4" in length.
John
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)

A little bit of amateur bathroom remodeling/cabinetry going on here. And
a little bit of finding myself backed into a (hardware) corner by not
researching hinges before starting the project.

I've built a new medicine cabinet flush into the plaster wall above the
sink. The cabinet sides are made of 3/4'' MDF and I plan to hang a
cabinet door over the front of the cabinet, same width as the outside
dim of the cabinet.

I want as little hardware to show as possible, but the stiles on the
cabinet door are narrow, to accommodate a mirror and its backing, so I
can't use "Euro" hidden hinges. A 2'' narrow loose pin "utility" hinge
would do the job but the ones I've found would require drilling into the
edge of the cabinet's MDF sides -- I don't get a real sense that this is
going to be very secure.

I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD and
Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
admittedly crude drawing at

http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote in message
...

But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF.
The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall
poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my
woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship, I
would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the screws,
even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come loose a
few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the frame rather
than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm just ascribing
to MDF the weakness of particle board?


First off MDF is not particle board. Particle board is woodchips and glue,
MDF is saw dust and epoxy.

Use a piano hinge, secure it to the door with wood screws, and you can drill
and tap the MDF to take machine screws.

Wth this setup I bet the door would brake long before the screws pulled out
of the MDF.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

MDF is not sawdust & adhesive; it is wood fiber & adhesive.

Use non-tapered screws with MDF esp when going into edge grain. Longer screws
& a slightly larger than usual pilot hole will minimize splitting.


http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip0090800sn.html

OP; If you're still looking for aome of those special hinges email me; I have a
bunch of them salvaged from cabinets. I can send you you a couple.

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

So lemme get this straight -- with something like a metric Forstner
bit, you drill a hole into the edge of the cabinet side and the rear
of the door. Shove these puppys in and tighten the screw to expand
the body. Pretty clever!

Yeah except that the holes have to be drilled *precisely*. And even
with 10mm there isn't much leeway on the sides going into 3/4" stock
from the edge.

They are useful hinges but I wouldn't use them in particle board...I
suspect they would work loose in short order.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.05...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room,

There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit
the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone
inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.

The hinge knuckle should be in the same plane as the front of the
door...that will allow 180 degree opening and no racking. One way to
accomplish that is by using knife/pivot hinges inset into door
top/bottom...only the small pivot would show.

http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_...at=24&OrderID=

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.05...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 12/12/2004 6:23 AM dadiOH wrote:

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:


Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room,


There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit
the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone
inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.

In my case, if the cabinet door opens much more than 90 degrees it will
smack into a wall sconce. I'll put some kind of chain or string to stop
the door before anything gets hammered.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
On 12/12/2004 6:23 AM dadiOH wrote:

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:


Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room,


There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit
the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone
inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.

In my case, if the cabinet door opens much more than 90 degrees it
will smack into a wall sconce. I'll put some kind of chain or string
to stop the door before anything gets hammered.

That will look peachy

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.05...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 12/11/2004 7:39 PM John wrote:

"dust Proof Kitchen Cabinet Hinges" are similar to your drawing, However
Screwing into the edge of MDF does not present a problem and give a good
fixing if you drill a pilot hole first. Use a narrow gauge screw and
make the pilot hole at least as deep as the screw. Use a screw that is
1 - 1 3/4" in length.

Can't find anything like a "dust proof kitchen cabinet hinge." Anyone
got a link to this?

--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

On 12/12/2004 11:23 AM dadiOH wrote:

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

On 12/12/2004 6:23 AM dadiOH wrote:


Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:



Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room,


There's a reason for that. Hinging the way you want to do will limit
the door swing to 90 degrees. It is not a good method...if someone
inadvertantly opens the door too hard something is going to give.

In my case, if the cabinet door opens much more than 90 degrees it
will smack into a wall sconce. I'll put some kind of chain or string
to stop the door before anything gets hammered.


That will look peachy

Heh. Yeah, I'm thinking a big old chunk of chain with a piece of old
green garden hose slipped over it.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
On 12/11/2004 7:39 PM John wrote:

"dust Proof Kitchen Cabinet Hinges" are similar to your drawing,
However Screwing into the edge of MDF does not present a problem and
give a good fixing if you drill a pilot hole first. Use a narrow gauge
screw and make the pilot hole at least as deep as the screw. Use a
screw that is
1 - 1 3/4" in length.


Can't find anything like a "dust proof kitchen cabinet hinge." Anyone
got a link to this?

Give this link a go. They're not exactly like I had in mind but perhaps
they'll do the job.

http://www.wwhardware.com/catalog.cf...g%2C%20Overlay
Regards
John

On 12/12/2004 11:01 PM John wrote:

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

On 12/11/2004 7:39 PM John wrote:

"dust Proof Kitchen Cabinet Hinges" are similar to your drawing,
However Screwing into the edge of MDF does not present a problem and
give a good fixing if you drill a pilot hole first. Use a narrow
gauge screw and make the pilot hole at least as deep as the screw.
Use a screw that is
1 - 1 3/4" in length.



Can't find anything like a "dust proof kitchen cabinet hinge." Anyone
got a link to this?

Give this link a go. They're not exactly like I had in mind but perhaps
they'll do the job.

http://www.wwhardware.com/catalog.cf...g%2C%20Overlay

Ah, thanks. I looked at those at HD. The door wing is so long the screws
would penetrate the mirror, and the frame wing is set up for 3/8''
overlay, and I've got 3/4'' overlay on my cabinet.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

With clothes the new are best, with friends the old are best.
------------------------------------

First off MDF is not particle board. Particle board is woodchips and glue,
MDF is saw dust and epoxy.

Hardly a difference in structural applications, but semantics I
suppose......................Not really important.

Squirrell,...............Why MDF??????????? Like building a car from
Foil..........Aluminum or tin, not important.........just in case that
comes up later.

You seem to put a lot of pride in workmanship and quality on the Bus.
Why not your home too?



Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply

MUADIB®

http://www.angelfire.com/retro/sster...IN%20PAGE.html

one small step for man,.....
One giant leap for attorneys.

Squirrell,...............Why MDF??????????? Like building a car from
Foil..........Aluminum or tin, not important.........just in case that
comes up later.

You seem to put a lot of pride in workmanship and quality on the Bus.
Why not your home too?

I did a Bad Thing? An in-wall medicine cabinet with two dadoed shelves,
mounted flush, fastened between studs, with a hardboard back
urethane-glued and stapled on, the gaps between the cabinet and wall
filled and sanded, and the whole thing, including the wall, finished
with paint seems like a perfect application for 3/4'' x 6'' MDF. It's
dimensionally stable, inexpensive in pre-cut and pre-primered "shelf"
chunks, and pretty sturdy. I should-a used something else?
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:

Squirrell,...............Why MDF??????????? Like building a car from
Foil..........Aluminum or tin, not important.........just in case that
comes up later.

You seem to put a lot of pride in workmanship and quality on the Bus.
Why not your home too?

I did a Bad Thing? An in-wall medicine cabinet with two dadoed shelves,
mounted flush, fastened between studs, with a hardboard back
urethane-glued and stapled on, the gaps between the cabinet and wall
filled and sanded, and the whole thing, including the wall, finished
with paint seems like a perfect application for 3/4'' x 6'' MDF. It's
dimensionally stable, inexpensive in pre-cut and pre-primered "shelf"
chunks, and pretty sturdy. I should-a used something else?

As you're discovering, the front hinge-mounting areas could have been
hardwood to avoid the present discussion...poplar, soft maple would work
well. If you could stand it, another way to solve you current dilemma
might be to mount a solid strip on the inside to hold the
hinge...slightly smaller opening, of course...

On 12/19/2004 12:53 PM Duane Bozarth wrote:

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:

Squirrell,...............Why MDF??????????? Like building a car from
Foil..........Aluminum or tin, not important.........just in case that
comes up later.

You seem to put a lot of pride in workmanship and quality on the Bus.
Why not your home too?

I did a Bad Thing? An in-wall medicine cabinet with two dadoed shelves,
mounted flush, fastened between studs, with a hardboard back
urethane-glued and stapled on, the gaps between the cabinet and wall
filled and sanded, and the whole thing, including the wall, finished
with paint seems like a perfect application for 3/4'' x 6'' MDF. It's
dimensionally stable, inexpensive in pre-cut and pre-primered "shelf"
chunks, and pretty sturdy. I should-a used something else?


As you're discovering, the front hinge-mounting areas could have been
hardwood to avoid the present discussion...poplar, soft maple would work
well. If you could stand it, another way to solve you current dilemma
might be to mount a solid strip on the inside to hold the
hinge...slightly smaller opening, of course...

Oh, well, as I've mentioned more than once in this thread, I boo-booed
by not investigating hinges first before designing the cabinet. The
usage of MDF in and of itself would not have been a bad choice if I had
been bright enough to design around a real hinge. I, um, "assumed" that
the hinge that I sketched (go to my OP) was real. If it had been then
MDF would-a worked just peachy. My bad.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

Democracy is the counting of heads, regardless of the contents.
------------------------------------

On 12/19/2004 10:36 AM MUADIB® wrote:


(...something disparaging my manly home handyman skills.)

Etc., etc.

Muadib -- great to run into you, Chris Perdue, and Speedy Jim over in
this NG!

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:

....I recall, I was just offering another possible out for the present
dilemma..

How are you going to finish? Paint, I'm assuming?

One thing about MDF, etc., in baths I don't like is their propensity to
absorb water (both spilled and humidity) and swell...

On 12/19/2004 1:48 PM Duane Bozarth wrote:

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:

...I recall, I was just offering another possible out for the present
dilemma..

I appreciate your help! Between you, and the other helpful guys I /will/
get myself out of this little corner I've nearly painted myself into.

How are you going to finish? Paint, I'm assuming?

It's up, man. The cabinet is in the wall, painted along with the wall.
Blends in real well, considering this was my first open-wall surgery and
plastering job. My toiletries are sitting on the shelf -- razor,
deoderant, one of them styptic pencils to quench the flow of blood when
I cut myself shaving WITHOUT A MIRROR because I am waiting for the 14mm
brad point bit coming from Lee Valley so I can try it on a sample MDF
edge before plunging two holes in the cabinet edge to take the barrel
hinges to mount the cabinet door that has the mirror that goes into the
house that Rocky built . . .

One thing about MDF, etc., in baths I don't like is their propensity to
absorb water (both spilled and humidity) and swell...

Oh. (In Johnny Carson voice): I did not know that. /That's/ a good
reason why I should not have used MDF for this application.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:
...
One thing about MDF, etc., in baths I don't like is their propensity to
absorb water (both spilled and humidity) and swell...

Oh. (In Johnny Carson voice): I did not know that. /That's/ a good
reason why I should not have used MDF for this application.

At least MDF is less susceptible than alternatives you could have
chosen...

On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 13:20:48 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote:

On 12/19/2004 10:36 AM MUADIB® wrote:


(...something disparaging my manly home handyman skills.)

Etc., etc.

Muadib -- great to run into you, Chris Perdue, and Speedy Jim over in
this NG!

Just giving you a hard time, Mike. I haven't built any cabinets in my
bathroom, so i don;t truely have room to talk.

I thought it interesting to see you here also.

You'll find John Willis here too. as on *the other* group.....

Sounds to me like you're making a go of it in a difficult situation
too. Good luck.



Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply

MUADIB®

http://www.angelfire.com/retro/sster...IN%20PAGE.html

one small step for man,.....
One giant leap for attorneys.

On 12/19/2004 5:44 PM Duane Bozarth wrote:

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:
..

One thing about MDF, etc., in baths I don't like is their propensity to
absorb water (both spilled and humidity) and swell...

Oh. (In Johnny Carson voice): I did not know that. /That's/ a good
reason why I should not have used MDF for this application.


At least MDF is less susceptible than alternatives you could have
chosen...

There's always some good news. Um-- what might have been a really bad
choice?

--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

From: MUADIB®

Muadib -- great to run into you, Chris Perdue, and Speedy Jim over in
this NG!

Just giving you a hard time, Mike. I haven't built any cabinets in my
bathroom, so i don;t truely have room to talk.

I thought it interesting to see you here also.

You'll find John Willis here too. as on *the other* group.....

Sounds to me like you're making a go of it in a difficult situation
too. Good luck.




hey hey...i'm here...hadn't been watching this thread, but i clicked on it for
some reason...hehe...to squirrelman, don't be surprised *where* you may run
into Jim, because he is awesome....he seems well versed in pretty much
everything....Maudib, John W, Jim and a few others from the "other" group have
been on this one for ages....i do come here alot but don't have enough time to
read all the threads....but i do cabinets...G...
-------------------
Chris Perdue
"I'm ever so thankful for the Internet; it has allowed me to keep a finger in
the pie and to make some small contribution to those younger who will carry the
air-cooled legend forward"
Jim Mais
Feb. 2004

On 12/19/2004 5:58 PM MUADIB® wrote:

On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 13:20:48 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote:


On 12/19/2004 10:36 AM MUADIB® wrote:


(...something disparaging my manly home handyman skills.)

Etc., etc.

Muadib -- great to run into you, Chris Perdue, and Speedy Jim over in
this NG!


Just giving you a hard time, Mike. I haven't built any cabinets in my
bathroom, so i don;t truely have room to talk.

I thought it interesting to see you here also.

You'll find John Willis here too. as on *the other* group.....

Sounds to me like you're making a go of it in a difficult situation
too. Good luck.

This bathroom has been a total trip. The previous owner had the walls
papered in a desperately repulsive floral print. The light above the
sink was about 10'' off-center. Why? There was carpeting on the floor.
Who puts carpeting on a floor around a toilet that men pee into? In
addition, the wallpaper had been hung upside-down. Before stripping the
wallpaper, a large "floating" mirror needed to be removed first. After
taping it packing tape to protect myself from shrapnel I pounded on it
with a big rubber mallet. The thing broke loose in one piece. I caught
it and lowered it to the floor. It had been affixed to the wall with
blobs of construction adhesive, which pulled big divots out of the
plaster. And there was a gaping hole in the wall, under the light
fixture, where a medicine cabinet had once been. Now I had a medicine
cabinet opening and a light fixture in the wall, 10'' off-center above
the sink. The sink was mounted on a vanity with a tiled top, attached to
tile on the wall. There is no moving this sink without busting up the
tile. The plumbing under the sink showed that there would have
originally been an older sink, directly under the cabinet and light
fixture. So I've been tearing out studs and moving light fixtures and
building a new cabinet in the wall. Pulling up the carpeting revealed
vinyl flooring in a /lovely/ 70's "earth colors" pattern. The room's a
mess right now, but it's going back together bit-by-bit.
--

Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR