On 12/11/2004 2:00 PM willshak wrote:

On 12/11/2004 4:26 PM US(ET), Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott took
fingers to keys, and typed the following:

(Cross-posted to rec.woodworking, alt.home.repair)

snip

I have a sketch of the kind of hinge I'd like to use -- it's like that
2'' utility hinge but with one long leaf, folded back. The local HD
and Lowe's have no such thing, and it may not exist. Please see my
admittedly crude drawing at

http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/hinge.gif



I don't know why you can't screw the loose pin hinges into the end of
the MDF. Just use longer screws to catch more material.
But here's a look at some like your drawing:
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_hinge_types.php

Great page to help the newbie w/ hinges! Those hinges -- like the
overlay hinges -- seem to throw the knuckle forward into the room, and I
want this door to have as close to hidden hinges as possible. That's why
something like a regular utility hinge with folded-back wing on the
frame side seems so attractive, because the knuckle will lay against the
wall.

But onto your suggestion about just mounting into the edge of the MDF.
The cabinet door won't be super-heavy, just a 17'' wide by 28'' tall
poplar frame w/ 1/8'' mirror glass in it. But given that most of my
woodworking projects show the hand -- and foot -- of my craftsmanship, I
would not be surprised to have the MDF split when installing the screws,
even with careful pre-drilling. Or see one of the hinges come loose a
few years down the road. Screwing through the side of the frame rather
than into the edge just seems more secure. Or maybe I'm just ascribing
to MDF the weakness of particle board?

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR