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Default Appliance industry warns....

On 8/5/2015 6:57 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/5/15 6:44 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/5/2015 4:17 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/5/15 11:40 AM, Muggles wrote:
A long time ago I ended up in the ER very ill and no one could figure
out what was wrong right away. They finally got the blood tests back
and it turned out to be I was low on potassium. They gave me an IV
with
potassium added to it plus a cup of orange juice with more potassium
added to it to sip on and I spent the night being hydrated with the
extra potassium. By morning I was well enough to leave, but I felt
like
something had sucked all the life out of me and then tried to shoot it
back in with a syringe. I made sure from that point on to have plenty
of potassium in my diet, and haven't had that happen again.

OJ has something like 450 mg per cup! Three times as much as a liter of
Gatorade!

I didn't realize OJ had so much. The USDA database says vegetable juice
cocktail has just as much. I checked the label. It doesn't mention any
mineral but sodium: 420 mg per cup. I don't drink it every day, but
that makes a difference in my sodium intake. I hope I'm worth my salt!


I appreciate the info you've been posting about this subject.
Previously, you mentioned bathing in epsom salt and how it's obsorbed
and even can help you sleep better. So, I went out and bought some and
the first night I actually could tell a difference in how well I slept.

Seems like you're worth your salt to me!

I can tell you're no bigot!


()

--
Maggie
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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/5/2015 7:18 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/5/15 6:32 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/5/2015 3:55 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/5/2015 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:


I think Edith showed the conflict between conscience and the herd
instinct in Dean Hoffman's thread.

At times I thought Edith was the smartest character in the show. She
tended to speak up to both sides when it really counted, otherwise,
she'd just let them all fight it out between them. She kind of knew it
was a lost cause to try to change their minds about anything unless it
came down to an issue that was important, like family and love.


Eight trailing messages. Please do some text
trim, when ever possible. Thanks.



rats You caught me again. I'll try harder.

Don't let Archie push you around, Edith! Stand up to him! What would
Maud do?


Some days I feel like a Maud. Some days I don't. ()

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Maggie
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Default Appliance industry warns.... use fan oil for fans

On 8/6/15 9:48 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/6/2015 4:38 AM, devnull wrote:
Just use motor oil

http://www.centuryelectricmotor.com/...pe=1033&id=772




The collective wisdom is that detergent oils
absorb humidity from the air, and that is
not good. ND (non detergent) oils are the
way to go.



I wonder.... In the 1970s, stores used to advertise HD oil as "heavy
duty." As other cans were marked ND, I think HD meant "high detergent."
That doesn't seem to be an API designation. I wonder if manufacturers
marked cans that way so warn consumers who needed ND oil.

I haven't seen such markings in a long time. I believe SE came out in
1972. It offered better protection against rust and corrosion. I'd
understood oil tended to collect moisture in winter if the oil didn't
get hot enough to drive it out. I wonder if manufacturers quit marking
cans HD or ND because detergent oils no longer used additives that would
absorb moisture.

That would explain why the motor doctor doesn't specify ND.

If the collective wisdom were on the money, I think it would say SB, not
ND. Since 1930, SB has been a far better oil than the alternative, SA.


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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/6/15 12:34 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/5/2015 7:18 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/5/15 6:32 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/5/2015 3:55 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/5/2015 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:

I think Edith showed the conflict between conscience and the herd
instinct in Dean Hoffman's thread.

At times I thought Edith was the smartest character in the show. She
tended to speak up to both sides when it really counted, otherwise,
she'd just let them all fight it out between them. She kind of knew it
was a lost cause to try to change their minds about anything unless it
came down to an issue that was important, like family and love.

Eight trailing messages. Please do some text
trim, when ever possible. Thanks.



rats You caught me again. I'll try harder.

Don't let Archie push you around, Edith! Stand up to him! What would
Maud do?


Some days I feel like a Maud. Some days I don't. ()

I remember now.... Lionel!

He and Edith were alike in that they tried to be agreeable instead of
imposing their opinions. The difference was that Edith tried to be
supportive of the opinions of others, which caused dilemmas, while
Lionel avoided confirming or denying the homemade opinions of Archie or
the ivory tower opinions of Meathead.

That way, Lionel was free to enjoy Archie's opinions. Sometimes, like a
clever lawyer, he'd lead Archie to change his mind without ever claiming
to impose a superior opinion.

I would have loved to see those two star as the Lone Ranger and Tonto!
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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/6/2015 7:52 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/6/15 12:34 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/5/2015 7:18 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/5/15 6:32 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/5/2015 3:55 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/5/2015 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:

I think Edith showed the conflict between conscience and the herd
instinct in Dean Hoffman's thread.

At times I thought Edith was the smartest character in the show. She
tended to speak up to both sides when it really counted, otherwise,
she'd just let them all fight it out between them. She kind of
knew it
was a lost cause to try to change their minds about anything
unless it
came down to an issue that was important, like family and love.

Eight trailing messages. Please do some text
trim, when ever possible. Thanks.



rats You caught me again. I'll try harder.

Don't let Archie push you around, Edith! Stand up to him! What would
Maud do?


Some days I feel like a Maud. Some days I don't. ()

I remember now.... Lionel!

He and Edith were alike in that they tried to be agreeable instead of
imposing their opinions. The difference was that Edith tried to be
supportive of the opinions of others, which caused dilemmas, while
Lionel avoided confirming or denying the homemade opinions of Archie or
the ivory tower opinions of Meathead.

That way, Lionel was free to enjoy Archie's opinions. Sometimes, like a
clever lawyer, he'd lead Archie to change his mind without ever claiming
to impose a superior opinion.

I would have loved to see those two star as the Lone Ranger and Tonto!


I think I like you. I know I like how you see things. Lionel ... I'd
forgotten about him and had to take a quick refresher on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmDqvgg0Bv8

--
Maggie


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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/6/15 10:55 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/6/2015 7:52 PM, J Burns wrote:


I remember now.... Lionel!

He and Edith were alike in that they tried to be agreeable instead of
imposing their opinions. The difference was that Edith tried to be
supportive of the opinions of others, which caused dilemmas, while
Lionel avoided confirming or denying the homemade opinions of Archie or
the ivory tower opinions of Meathead.

That way, Lionel was free to enjoy Archie's opinions. Sometimes, like a
clever lawyer, he'd lead Archie to change his mind without ever claiming
to impose a superior opinion.

I would have loved to see those two star as the Lone Ranger and Tonto!


I think I like you. I know I like how you see things. Lionel ... I'd
forgotten about him and had to take a quick refresher on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmDqvgg0Bv8


Excellent!

I was never a faithful viewer. It was supposed to be exciting and
worthwhile because it presented controversial issues, but those issues
bored me. The rest was a sort of verbal slapstick with a studio audience
to tell the viewer when to laugh with the herd. The big thing I enjoyed
was Archie, with his personal ideas, mispronunciations, and facial
expressions.

The intermarriage episode would have bored me in 1974. I enjoyed it on
youtube because of something I'd experienced since. In 1980, I learned
that the husband of the sister of my brother's wife, was black.
Intellectually, I thought it was fine. I was surprised that I found it
a little unsettling.

I realized it was unsettling because I didn't even know an interracial
couple. Therefore, it was a violation of the social norms in my world,
and violating social norms is immoral.

I figured I'd just have to be like Archie and get used to the idea. So
you see, he was my TV mentor.


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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

On 8/6/15 9:40 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/5/2015 8:32 PM, J Burns wrote:



My mower manuals recommend 30W over multiweight, but the 30W that's
readily available here is SA. Is it bad to use SA in a mower engine?


I think they grade oils SA through SF, based on
some quality grading or other. I can't remember
what. But, my SWAG is that SA quality grade is
fine for lawn mowers.

I dumped in a quart of SA last time. I can see you're no bigot because
you're so tolerant of my ignorance. I've decided I was wrong.

When I've opened small engines with a lot of use, I've been amazed at
how clean they were and how little wear I found. Modern oil must be a
lot better than what small engines used decades ago.

Unlike SB, SA has no additives at all. The API recommends SB for mowers
but says SA is good only for hinges and air filter baths.

The engine manufacturer's recommendation of straight 30 may be outdated.
At one time, the additives that thickened multiweight oil would wear
out, but that seems to have improved. At one time, maybe thicker oil
would give better lubrication when you first cranked an engine that had
been sitting for weeks, but I'll bet modern additives have helped.

I've been letting engines warm up before draining oil, both to drain
faster and to carry out as much dirt as possible. Multiweight oil would
drain better than straight 30 cold, and I get the impression that
detergent oil will carry out dirt without being stirred up. No more hot
oil on my hands!

One problem with straight 30 is that it can take a long time to get a
good dipstick reading, after I add oil or even after I pull the mower
out of the garage.

It looks like it was pretty dumb to use 30W SA. Thanks for not pointing
it out. I want everybody to think I'm as smart as average!
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Default Appliance industry warns.... use motor oil for mowers

On 8/7/2015 1:19 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/6/15 9:40 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/5/2015 8:32 PM, J Burns wrote:



My mower manuals recommend 30W over multiweight, but the 30W that's
readily available here is SA. Is it bad to use SA in a mower engine?


I think they grade oils SA through SF, based on
some quality grading or other. I can't remember
what. But, my SWAG is that SA quality grade is
fine for lawn mowers.

I dumped in a quart of SA last time. I can see you're no bigot because
you're so tolerant of my ignorance. I've decided I was wrong.

When I've opened small engines with a lot of use, I've been amazed at
how clean they were and how little wear I found. Modern oil must be a
lot better than what small engines used decades ago.

Unlike SB, SA has no additives at all. The API recommends SB for mowers
but says SA is good only for hinges and air filter baths.

The engine manufacturer's recommendation of straight 30 may be outdated.
At one time, the additives that thickened multiweight oil would wear
out, but that seems to have improved. At one time, maybe thicker oil
would give better lubrication when you first cranked an engine that had
been sitting for weeks, but I'll bet modern additives have helped.

I've been letting engines warm up before draining oil, both to drain
faster and to carry out as much dirt as possible. Multiweight oil would
drain better than straight 30 cold, and I get the impression that
detergent oil will carry out dirt without being stirred up. No more hot
oil on my hands!

One problem with straight 30 is that it can take a long time to get a
good dipstick reading, after I add oil or even after I pull the mower
out of the garage.

It looks like it was pretty dumb to use 30W SA. Thanks for not pointing
it out. I want everybody to think I'm as smart as average!


I didn't know that SA has no additives. Well, some
thing new every day (I hate that!). My personal lawn
mower holds 20 ounces, so I can't add a full quart
like you do. The oil in it is black as tar, I've
got to change the oil some day soon. I use Castrol
GTX, or some thing like that. Probably SE or SF
rated. Whatever it is, seems to work. Haven't siezed
up a lawn mower, yet.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Appliance industry warns.... use fan oil for fans

On 8/5/2015 12:15 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/5/2015 7:06 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen it at hardware stores. It's about three dollars
a bottle, which is cheaper than replacing a fan. The bottle
lasts for a lot of uses, which makes it a good value for
the investment. It is also possible to unscrew the top and
fill it up with other oils, if you want to get even more
frugal.


I won't throw away a fan unless all efforts to clean out the dust and
oil it don't help to get it running again. I'm going to get some of
that Zoom oil, too.


I find that brake cleaner spray works okay for cleaning
motor bearings. Nice high power solvent flush, usually
the cans come with LRT so I can get into tight spaces.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/6/2015 11:49 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/6/15 10:55 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/6/2015 7:52 PM, J Burns wrote:


I remember now.... Lionel!

He and Edith were alike in that they tried to be agreeable instead of
imposing their opinions. The difference was that Edith tried to be
supportive of the opinions of others, which caused dilemmas, while
Lionel avoided confirming or denying the homemade opinions of Archie or
the ivory tower opinions of Meathead.

That way, Lionel was free to enjoy Archie's opinions. Sometimes, like a
clever lawyer, he'd lead Archie to change his mind without ever claiming
to impose a superior opinion.

I would have loved to see those two star as the Lone Ranger and Tonto!


I think I like you. I know I like how you see things. Lionel ... I'd
forgotten about him and had to take a quick refresher on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmDqvgg0Bv8


Excellent!

I was never a faithful viewer.


Whenever I watched the show it was because a family member wanted to
watch it, so I wasn't really a faithful viewer, either.

It was supposed to be exciting and
worthwhile because it presented controversial issues, but those issues
bored me.


I never liked the show because I didn't like how the characters talked
to each other or how they treated each other. I thought people should
treat each other better than that, and it wasn't funny for me to watch
people behave like that. I did like some of the individual episodes
when they would come together as a family and the characters had learned
some sort of a lesson on how they could be better people.

The rest was a sort of verbal slapstick with a studio audience
to tell the viewer when to laugh with the herd. The big thing I enjoyed
was Archie, with his personal ideas, mispronunciations, and facial
expressions.


I did enjoy seeing Archie evolve.

The intermarriage episode would have bored me in 1974. I enjoyed it on
youtube because of something I'd experienced since. In 1980, I learned
that the husband of the sister of my brother's wife, was black.
Intellectually, I thought it was fine. I was surprised that I found it
a little unsettling.

I realized it was unsettling because I didn't even know an interracial
couple. Therefore, it was a violation of the social norms in my world,
and violating social norms is immoral.


The interracial part on the show struck me as weird the way they
presented it, but I loved the part when Lionel's soon to be white
father-in-law told his wife he'd DO something about "it", and then went
and asked Lionel's mom to dance. That part was GREAT! LOL He took the
whole issue with race and turned it into something good - something
normal people do (dancing) vs. making it about color of skin.

I figured I'd just have to be like Archie and get used to the idea. So
you see, he was my TV mentor.


yes .. I get it. I think Edith taught me about having patience with
people who have difficult personalities and viewpoints.

--
Maggie


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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

On 8/7/2015 12:19 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/6/15 9:40 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/5/2015 8:32 PM, J Burns wrote:



My mower manuals recommend 30W over multiweight, but the 30W that's
readily available here is SA. Is it bad to use SA in a mower engine?


I think they grade oils SA through SF, based on
some quality grading or other. I can't remember
what. But, my SWAG is that SA quality grade is
fine for lawn mowers.

I dumped in a quart of SA last time. I can see you're no bigot because
you're so tolerant of my ignorance. I've decided I was wrong.

When I've opened small engines with a lot of use, I've been amazed at
how clean they were and how little wear I found. Modern oil must be a
lot better than what small engines used decades ago.

Unlike SB, SA has no additives at all. The API recommends SB for mowers
but says SA is good only for hinges and air filter baths.

The engine manufacturer's recommendation of straight 30 may be outdated.
At one time, the additives that thickened multiweight oil would wear
out, but that seems to have improved. At one time, maybe thicker oil
would give better lubrication when you first cranked an engine that had
been sitting for weeks, but I'll bet modern additives have helped.

I've been letting engines warm up before draining oil, both to drain
faster and to carry out as much dirt as possible. Multiweight oil would
drain better than straight 30 cold, and I get the impression that
detergent oil will carry out dirt without being stirred up. No more hot
oil on my hands!

One problem with straight 30 is that it can take a long time to get a
good dipstick reading, after I add oil or even after I pull the mower
out of the garage.

It looks like it was pretty dumb to use 30W SA. Thanks for not pointing
it out. I want everybody to think I'm as smart as average!


What's SB, & SA mean?

--
Maggie
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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/7/2015 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/6/2015 11:49 PM, J Burns wrote:

I figured I'd just have to be like Archie and get used to the idea. So
you see, he was my TV mentor.


yes .. I get it. I think Edith taught me about having patience with
people who have difficult personalities and viewpoints.


Wish everyone in the world could understand
tolerance. And, I hate people who are intolerant.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Appliance industry warns.... motor oil letters matter

On 8/7/2015 12:04 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/7/2015 12:19 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/6/15 9:40 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I think they grade oils SA through SF, based on
some quality grading or other. I can't remember
what. But, my SWAG is that SA quality grade is
fine for lawn mowers.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm

It looks like it was pretty dumb to use 30W SA. Thanks for not pointing
it out. I want everybody to think I'm as smart as average!


What's SB, & SA mean?


Someone initials SM wrote about SB and SA, earlier in
this message thread. It's got to be up there some
where, in the old text. Might even be a URL.



--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/7/2015 11:13 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/7/2015 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/6/2015 11:49 PM, J Burns wrote:

I figured I'd just have to be like Archie and get used to the idea. So
you see, he was my TV mentor.


yes .. I get it. I think Edith taught me about having patience with
people who have difficult personalities and viewpoints.


Wish everyone in the world could understand
tolerance. And, I hate people who are intolerant.



You crack me up!

--
Maggie
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Default Appliance industry warns.... motor oil letters matter

On 8/7/2015 11:18 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/7/2015 12:04 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/7/2015 12:19 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/6/15 9:40 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I think they grade oils SA through SF, based on
some quality grading or other. I can't remember
what. But, my SWAG is that SA quality grade is
fine for lawn mowers.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm
It looks like it was pretty dumb to use 30W SA. Thanks for not pointing
it out. I want everybody to think I'm as smart as average!


What's SB, & SA mean?


Someone initials SM wrote about SB and SA, earlier in
this message thread. It's got to be up there some
where, in the old text. Might even be a URL.




sigh And I thought I knew all the abbreviations already. ;-)

--
Maggie


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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

Muggles formulated the question :
On 8/7/2015 11:13 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/7/2015 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/6/2015 11:49 PM, J Burns wrote:

I figured I'd just have to be like Archie and get used to the idea. So
you see, he was my TV mentor.

yes .. I get it. I think Edith taught me about having patience with
people who have difficult personalities and viewpoints.


Wish everyone in the world could understand
tolerance. And, I hate people who are intolerant.



You crack me up!


Help stamp out violence!

--
....
For long you live and high you fly
But only if you ride the tide
And balanced on the biggest wave
You race towards an early grave.


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Default Appliance industry warns.... use fan oil for fans

On 8/7/2015 9:37 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/5/2015 12:15 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/5/2015 7:06 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen it at hardware stores. It's about three dollars
a bottle, which is cheaper than replacing a fan. The bottle
lasts for a lot of uses, which makes it a good value for
the investment. It is also possible to unscrew the top and
fill it up with other oils, if you want to get even more
frugal.


I won't throw away a fan unless all efforts to clean out the dust and
oil it don't help to get it running again. I'm going to get some of
that Zoom oil, too.


I find that brake cleaner spray works okay for cleaning
motor bearings. Nice high power solvent flush, usually
the cans come with LRT so I can get into tight spaces.


I haven't graduated to cleaning motor bearings, yet. I have to take
another year of home.repair before I have the prerequisites to take
motor bearing cleaning.

--
Maggie
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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

Muggles was thinking very hard :
On 8/7/2015 12:19 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/6/15 9:40 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/5/2015 8:32 PM, J Burns wrote:



My mower manuals recommend 30W over multiweight, but the 30W that's
readily available here is SA. Is it bad to use SA in a mower engine?

I think they grade oils SA through SF, based on
some quality grading or other. I can't remember
what. But, my SWAG is that SA quality grade is
fine for lawn mowers.

I dumped in a quart of SA last time. I can see you're no bigot because
you're so tolerant of my ignorance. I've decided I was wrong.

When I've opened small engines with a lot of use, I've been amazed at
how clean they were and how little wear I found. Modern oil must be a
lot better than what small engines used decades ago.

Unlike SB, SA has no additives at all. The API recommends SB for mowers
but says SA is good only for hinges and air filter baths.

The engine manufacturer's recommendation of straight 30 may be outdated.
At one time, the additives that thickened multiweight oil would wear
out, but that seems to have improved. At one time, maybe thicker oil
would give better lubrication when you first cranked an engine that had
been sitting for weeks, but I'll bet modern additives have helped.

I've been letting engines warm up before draining oil, both to drain
faster and to carry out as much dirt as possible. Multiweight oil would
drain better than straight 30 cold, and I get the impression that
detergent oil will carry out dirt without being stirred up. No more hot
oil on my hands!

One problem with straight 30 is that it can take a long time to get a
good dipstick reading, after I add oil or even after I pull the mower
out of the garage.

It looks like it was pretty dumb to use 30W SA. Thanks for not pointing
it out. I want everybody to think I'm as smart as average!


What's SB, & SA mean?


SB Obsolete
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive
engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause
unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SA Obsolete
CAUTION: Contains no additives. Not suitable for use in most
gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1930 Use in modern
engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/cer...glish_2013.pdf

--
....
For long you live and high you fly
But only if you ride the tide
And balanced on the biggest wave
You race towards an early grave.


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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/7/15 12:13 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/7/2015 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/6/2015 11:49 PM, J Burns wrote:

I figured I'd just have to be like Archie and get used to the idea. So
you see, he was my TV mentor.


yes .. I get it. I think Edith taught me about having patience with
people who have difficult personalities and viewpoints.


Wish everyone in the world could understand
tolerance. And, I hate people who are intolerant.


I hate bigots even worse than I hate Australians!
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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

On 8/7/15 2:07 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
Muggles was thinking very hard :


What's SB, & SA mean?


SB Obsolete
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive
engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause
unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SA Obsolete
CAUTION: Contains no additives. Not suitable for use in most
gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1930 Use in modern
engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/cer...glish_2013.pdf


I'd like to find out the specs for each service grade, and when it
became available.

Non-detergent oil is recommended for compressors, but I've read of a
1964 Sears compressor, still in service in 2011, whose manual
recommended detergent oil.

I see two possibilities: it was a misprint, or engineers knew that the
detergent oil on the market (maybe it was SD) did not absorb water.


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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/7/15 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:
I never liked the show because I didn't like how the characters talked
to each other or how they treated each other. I thought people should
treat each other better than that, and it wasn't funny for me to watch
people behave like that.


Yeah, when George expressed his sincerity to Louise by saying, "Over my
dead body," she replied, "One say or the other."

How could she speak to him in such an uncivilized manner!
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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/7/2015 2:17 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/7/15 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:
I never liked the show because I didn't like how the characters talked
to each other or how they treated each other. I thought people should
treat each other better than that, and it wasn't funny for me to watch
people behave like that.


Yeah, when George expressed his sincerity to Louise by saying, "Over my
dead body," she replied, "One say or the other."

How could she speak to him in such an uncivilized manner!


hahaaha! yeah. Really! How dare she!

--
Maggie
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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

J Burns presented the following explanation :
On 8/7/15 2:07 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
Muggles was thinking very hard :


What's SB, & SA mean?


SB Obsolete
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive
engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause
unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SA Obsolete
CAUTION: Contains no additives. Not suitable for use in most
gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1930 Use in modern
engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/cer...glish_2013.pdf


I'd like to find out the specs for each service grade, and when it became
available.

Non-detergent oil is recommended for compressors, but I've read of a 1964
Sears compressor, still in service in 2011, whose manual recommended
detergent oil.

I see two possibilities: it was a misprint, or engineers knew that the
detergent oil on the market (maybe it was SD) did not absorb water.


Maybe this helps, but I suspect not much:

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pd...ifications.pdf

--
....
For long you live and high you fly
But only if you ride the tide
And balanced on the biggest wave
You race towards an early grave.


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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 11:13:06 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/7/2015 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/6/2015 11:49 PM, J Burns wrote:

I figured I'd just have to be like Archie and get used to the idea. So
you see, he was my TV mentor.


yes .. I get it. I think Edith taught me about having patience with
people who have difficult personalities and viewpoints.


Wish everyone in the world could understand
tolerance. And, I hate people who are intolerant.

--
.

My brother started a universal hate group some years ago. It's called OTHER, "Organization for the Termination of Human Equal Rights". We hate everyone. Membership in the group is open to anyone who wishes to hate anyone for any reason. Once you're in the group, you judge people by whether or not they're members of the group. Remember this, you're either something or OTHER.. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Hateful Monster
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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 1:07:57 PM UTC-5, FromTheRafters wrote:
Muggles was thinking very hard :
On 8/7/2015 12:19 AM, J Burns wrote:
On 8/6/15 9:40 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/5/2015 8:32 PM, J Burns wrote:


My mower manuals recommend 30W over multiweight, but the 30W that's
readily available here is SA. Is it bad to use SA in a mower engine?

I think they grade oils SA through SF, based on
some quality grading or other. I can't remember
what. But, my SWAG is that SA quality grade is
fine for lawn mowers.

I dumped in a quart of SA last time. I can see you're no bigot because
you're so tolerant of my ignorance. I've decided I was wrong.

When I've opened small engines with a lot of use, I've been amazed at
how clean they were and how little wear I found. Modern oil must be a
lot better than what small engines used decades ago.

Unlike SB, SA has no additives at all. The API recommends SB for mowers
but says SA is good only for hinges and air filter baths.

The engine manufacturer's recommendation of straight 30 may be outdated.
At one time, the additives that thickened multiweight oil would wear
out, but that seems to have improved. At one time, maybe thicker oil
would give better lubrication when you first cranked an engine that had
been sitting for weeks, but I'll bet modern additives have helped.

I've been letting engines warm up before draining oil, both to drain
faster and to carry out as much dirt as possible. Multiweight oil would
drain better than straight 30 cold, and I get the impression that
detergent oil will carry out dirt without being stirred up. No more hot
oil on my hands!

One problem with straight 30 is that it can take a long time to get a
good dipstick reading, after I add oil or even after I pull the mower
out of the garage.

It looks like it was pretty dumb to use 30W SA. Thanks for not pointing
it out. I want everybody to think I'm as smart as average!


What's SB, & SA mean?


SB Obsolete
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive
engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause
unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SA Obsolete
CAUTION: Contains no additives. Not suitable for use in most
gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1930 Use in modern
engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/cer...glish_2013.pdf
--
...


Me and my brother know a guy who's so cheap, he buys the least expensive dollar store oil for his vehicles. He'll put 30 weight non-detergent motor oil meant for lawnmower engines in his car which requires 5W-30 high detergent oil. The idiot will not listen to anyone and always complains about engine problems. He once drove another fellow's truck until the motor burned up because he refused to put 50 cents in a water dispenser at a gas station because water was free at home. The engine seized up by the time he got to the house. I don't know if he was dropped on his head at birth or what. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[8~{} Uncle Oil Monster


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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 2:06:55 PM UTC-5, J Burns wrote:
On 8/7/15 2:07 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
Muggles was thinking very hard :


What's SB, & SA mean?


SB Obsolete
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive
engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause
unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SA Obsolete
CAUTION: Contains no additives. Not suitable for use in most
gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1930 Use in modern
engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/cer...glish_2013.pdf


I'd like to find out the specs for each service grade, and when it
became available.

Non-detergent oil is recommended for compressors, but I've read of a
1964 Sears compressor, still in service in 2011, whose manual
recommended detergent oil.

I see two possibilities: it was a misprint, or engineers knew that the
detergent oil on the market (maybe it was SD) did not absorb water.


You can purchase air compressor oil from WW Grainger. I use it in my compressors because it has a very wide temperature range and has kept my compressors running trouble free for decades. Auto parts stores may carry it too but I always bought it at Grainger. ^_^

http://preview.tinyurl.com/nop5tta

[8~{} Uncle Air Monster
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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

On 8/7/15 5:03 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
J Burns presented the following explanation :
On 8/7/15 2:07 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
Muggles was thinking very hard :


What's SB, & SA mean?

SB Obsolete
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive
engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause
unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SA Obsolete
CAUTION: Contains no additives. Not suitable for use in most
gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1930 Use in modern
engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/cer...glish_2013.pdf



I'd like to find out the specs for each service grade, and when it
became available.

Non-detergent oil is recommended for compressors, but I've read of a
1964 Sears compressor, still in service in 2011, whose manual
recommended detergent oil.

I see two possibilities: it was a misprint, or engineers knew that
the detergent oil on the market (maybe it was SD) did not absorb water.


Maybe this helps, but I suspect not much:

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pd...ifications.pdf


It's confusing. Your page says SC was specified from 1964-67.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm

This page says SC was specified from 1951-1967.

The API specifies tests to see if oil meets requirements for a given
service grade. I know, I'll hire a private investigator to find out
what those requirements are!
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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

After serious thinking J Burns wrote :
On 8/7/15 5:03 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
J Burns presented the following explanation :
On 8/7/15 2:07 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
Muggles was thinking very hard :

What's SB, & SA mean?

SB Obsolete
CAUTION: Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive
engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause
unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

SA Obsolete
CAUTION: Contains no additives. Not suitable for use in most
gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1930 Use in modern
engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/cer...glish_2013.pdf



I'd like to find out the specs for each service grade, and when it
became available.

Non-detergent oil is recommended for compressors, but I've read of a
1964 Sears compressor, still in service in 2011, whose manual
recommended detergent oil.

I see two possibilities: it was a misprint, or engineers knew that
the detergent oil on the market (maybe it was SD) did not absorb water.


Maybe this helps, but I suspect not much:

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pd...ifications.pdf


It's confusing. Your page says SC was specified from 1964-67.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm

This page says SC was specified from 1951-1967.


This one just says '67 and older.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php

The API specifies tests to see if oil meets requirements for a given service
grade. I know, I'll hire a private investigator to find out what those
requirements are!


That might work.

--
....
For long you live and high you fly
But only if you ride the tide
And balanced on the biggest wave
You race towards an early grave.


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Default Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids

On 8/7/2015 1:53 PM, FromTheRafters wrote:
Muggles formulated the question :
On 8/7/2015 11:13 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/7/2015 11:58 AM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/6/2015 11:49 PM, J Burns wrote:

I figured I'd just have to be like Archie and get used to the
idea. So
you see, he was my TV mentor.

yes .. I get it. I think Edith taught me about having patience with
people who have difficult personalities and viewpoints.


Wish everyone in the world could understand
tolerance. And, I hate people who are intolerant.



You crack me up!


Help stamp out violence!


I do that every week, when I get together with
thousands of people, and march against outrage.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Appliance industry warns.... dd acid to water

On 8/7/15 6:38 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 2:06:55 PM UTC-5, J Burns wrote:


Non-detergent oil is recommended for compressors, but I've read of a
1964 Sears compressor, still in service in 2011, whose manual
recommended detergent oil.

I see two possibilities: it was a misprint, or engineers knew that the
detergent oil on the market (maybe it was SD) did not absorb water.


You can purchase air compressor oil from WW Grainger. I use it in my compressors because it has a very wide temperature range and has kept my compressors running trouble free for decades. Auto parts stores may carry it too but I always bought it at Grainger. ^_^

http://preview.tinyurl.com/nop5tta

[8~{} Uncle Air Monster

Here's Valvolines, more data.
http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-our-products/all-products/industrial-lubricants-and-hydraulic-oils/compressor-and-air-tools-oils/valvoline-valcomp-compressor-oil

"Fights deposits" seems to describe a detergent oil.

Demulsibility.... This explains it.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28786/oil-demulsibility-importance

Oil draws moisture from the air. I wonder if that's true of all oils.


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Default Appliance industry warns.... use good quality oils

On 8/7/2015 6:21 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Me and my brother know a guy who's so cheap, he

buys the least expensive dollar store oil for his
vehicles. He'll put 30 weight non-detergent motor
oil meant for lawnmower engines in his car which
requires 5W-30 high detergent oil. The idiot will
not listen to anyone and always complains about
engine problems. He once drove another fellow's
truck until the motor burned up because he refused
to put 50 cents in a water dispenser at a gas station
because water was free at home. The engine seized up
by the time he got to the house. I don't know if he
was dropped on his head at birth or what. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[8~{} Uncle Oil Monster


On the same line, I knew of a fellow who used old
engine crank case oil as chainsaw bar lube. Kept
wearing out chains and bars, probably more than
the cost of the bar oil. Sigh.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Appliance industry warns.... Mix your oils

On 8/7/2015 10:24 PM, J Burns wrote:

Oil draws moisture from the air. I wonder if that's true of all oils.


No, just detergent oils. Didn't you hear the
old saying "oil and water don't mix" ??? To
mix oil and water requires detergent.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Appliance industry warns.... use fan oil for fans

On 8/7/2015 2:06 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/7/2015 9:37 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I find that brake cleaner spray works okay for cleaning
motor bearings. Nice high power solvent flush, usually
the cans come with LRT so I can get into tight spaces.


I haven't graduated to cleaning motor bearings, yet. I have to take
another year of home.repair before I have the prerequisites to take
motor bearing cleaning.


Ah, I think that's home.repair 104, which is taught
by Professor Crusher, down the hall on the left.
Far left, you know?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Appliance industry warns.... Mix your oils

On 8/8/15 8:24 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/7/2015 10:24 PM, J Burns wrote:

Oil draws moisture from the air. I wonder if that's true of all oils.


No, just detergent oils. Didn't you hear the
old saying "oil and water don't mix" ??? To
mix oil and water requires detergent.

http://reliabilityweb.com/index.php/..._oil_and_water

Unfortunately, this disagrees with you. All oil absorbs water.

Fortunately, this agrees with you. Detergents make oil absorb a lot
more water.

Unfortunately, this disagrees with you. Having water in the oil is fine.
It's when it comes out of the oil that it damages bearings.

Valvoline advertises the demulsibility of its compressor oil. In a
factory, you want water in the oil to demulsify and settle in the sump
so a watchful engineer can drain it.

By definition, detergent increases emulsibility. I think I see why motor
oil has detergents. There is no engineer watching the sump. In winter,
maybe water could accumulate to the point that the oil pump would pick
it up and send it to the bearings. So they put detergent in the oil to
be sure water stays in the oil.

In an electric motor, the water in the oil will depend on the humidity,
but it shouldn't end up on the bearings, whether the oil is HD or ND.
Water in oil can speed deterioration of the oil. That's what additives
are for.
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Default Appliance industry warns.... Mix your oils

On 8/8/2015 7:24 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/7/2015 10:24 PM, J Burns wrote:

Oil draws moisture from the air. I wonder if that's true of all oils.


No, just detergent oils. Didn't you hear the
old saying "oil and water don't mix" ??? To
mix oil and water requires detergent.


hmmm I noticed that works with the bubbles from bath wash. If I use
some baby oil after using a bubbly bath wash, the baby oil dissolves the
floating bubbles on the top of the water.

--
Maggie


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Default Appliance industry warns.... use fan oil for fans

On 8/8/2015 7:25 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/7/2015 2:06 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/7/2015 9:37 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I find that brake cleaner spray works okay for cleaning
motor bearings. Nice high power solvent flush, usually
the cans come with LRT so I can get into tight spaces.


I haven't graduated to cleaning motor bearings, yet. I have to take
another year of home.repair before I have the prerequisites to take
motor bearing cleaning.


Ah, I think that's home.repair 104, which is taught
by Professor Crusher, down the hall on the left.
Far left, you know?


noted... hopefully by next year I'll have passed this years courses, but
I'm not naturally mechanically inclined, so I may have to re-take some
courses.

--
Maggie
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Default Appliance industry warns....

On Tuesday, July 21, 2015 at 3:52:57 AM UTC+5:30, Oren wrote:
"...The recent proposal from the Department of Energy is meant to
boost dishwasher efficiency by setting stricter limits on the amount
of water each dishwasher can use, among other changes. Under the plan,
washers could use only 3.1 gallons of water for a single load.

http://www.foxnews.com/politics/2015/07/20/federal-dishwasher-proposals-upset-appliance-industry-conservatives/v

https://tinyurl.com/nhsoupe


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