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#121
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 2:52 PM, Brent wrote:
On 7/24/2015 2:45 PM, Muggles wrote: I don't want to damage anything accidentally by using an acid, but if that's the only think that'll work, what would be the safest one to try first? Before you rent a jack hammer from McLowesDepotBigBoxMart, maybe try some vinegar. http://www.thechemicalblog.co.uk/how...as-a-descaler/ The one thing I haven't tried would be vinegar or citric acid. I think I'll give those a try. {{adds to grocery list}} Thanks! -- Maggie |
#122
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Appliance industry warns....
On Fri, 24 Jul 2015 14:56:43 -0500, Muggles wrote:
You can progress to others but two cups of pool (muriatic acid) acid poured in the bowl, brushed around with a nylon toilet brush and then neutralized with baking soda before you flush -- in case you are on a septic system or cast iron sewer lines. More details are needed. See "Method 2 of 2: Muriatic Acid Method" http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Slow-Toilet gee ... that sounds dangerous for me to try, anyway. I'm thinking that trying a less dangerous acid might be better for me. I can't help without a little more details. - White vinegar (takes a long time on calcium) - Citric Acid crystals (mild to etch concrete for epoxy coatings) - Sulfamic acid (tile and grout cleaner) - Muriactic acid (neutralized after use, before flushing) .... - Lysergic acid diethylamide, LSD (take a trip and never come back) G |
#123
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Appliance industry warns....
On 2015-07-24, Brent wrote:
Before you rent a jack hammer from McLowesDepotBigBoxMart, maybe try some vinegar. Here's an interesting U2B video about removing moles using vinegar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxIHRMh50kc nb |
#124
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 3:29 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jul 2015 14:56:43 -0500, Muggles wrote: You can progress to others but two cups of pool (muriatic acid) acid poured in the bowl, brushed around with a nylon toilet brush and then neutralized with baking soda before you flush -- in case you are on a septic system or cast iron sewer lines. More details are needed. See "Method 2 of 2: Muriatic Acid Method" http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Slow-Toilet gee ... that sounds dangerous for me to try, anyway. I'm thinking that trying a less dangerous acid might be better for me. I can't help without a little more details. - White vinegar (takes a long time on calcium) - Citric Acid crystals (mild to etch concrete for epoxy coatings) - Sulfamic acid (tile and grout cleaner) - Muriactic acid (neutralized after use, before flushing) ... - Lysergic acid diethylamide, LSD (take a trip and never come back) G HAHAHA!! I'm thinking of trying the white vinegar first. I've chipped away some of the thickest deposits, vinegar is cheap, and I don't mind if I have to let it soak more than one time. If it helps even a little bit I'll be happy. Uncle Monster suggested trying "The Works Disinfectant Toilet Bowl Cleaner". I could try that one, too. -- Maggie |
#125
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 1:56 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 1:29:15 PM UTC-5, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 1:06 PM, J Burns wrote: On 7/23/15 1:55 AM, Robert Green wrote: "J Burns" wrote in message stuff snipped A paper towel costs 150 times more than a sheet of toilet paper. It's harder to rip off the roll with one hand, and paper towels fill a waste basket in a hurry . . . I'm going to find me a pecan stick so I can use a couple of pieces of wire to hang a toilet paper roll. Then I'll have a state-of-the-art toilet-paper-and-borax kitchen. I mounted a toilet paper roll inside a kitchen cabinet door for the same reason: Keeping as much grease as possible from going into the drain. Cheaper than paper towels, that's for sure. Yeah, toilet tissue picks up grease better than water, and it takes up very little space in the waste basket. Maybe I could sell those wads to start charcoal fires! I've been keeping a sprayer with borax by the sink a couple of months, dispensing it several times a day. Last night I saw my first roach in a long time. It was on the dining-room carpet. Their speed can be frustrating for a hunter without a shotgun, so I got my sprayer and turned the nozzle to squirt. Borax won't hurt a carpet. It will kill a bug before long, but the immediate effect is uncertain. It made him so slow that stepping on him felt unsporting. I have this stubborn calcium deposit stuck to my toilet bowl, and I've tried everything I can find off the store shelves that I'd normally clean it with and nothing seems to work. I actually got some of it to chip off, but it's a pain to even get that to come off. Is there anything safe I can use that'll dissolve the calcium deposits that isn't a nasty acid of some sort? -- Maggie I've used," The Works Disinfectant Toilet Bowl Cleaner" and it has never failed to remove all sorts of crud from a toilet. I've also used "Vanish Crystals" on toilets that had been left dirty and dry for very long periods of time and it's brought the bowls back to a nice white sparkle. Unfortunately the Vanish Crystals cleaner has been discontinued. It must be one of those household chemicals that can be used to make explosives. ^_^ https://tinyurl.com/pet7bml https://tinyurl.com/os42kns [8~{} Uncle Toilet Monster OK ... if it works on ready mix, it must work on calcium deposits, too! -- Maggie |
#126
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/15 2:29 PM, Muggles wrote:
I have this stubborn calcium deposit stuck to my toilet bowl, and I've tried everything I can find off the store shelves that I'd normally clean it with and nothing seems to work. I actually got some of it to chip off, but it's a pain to even get that to come off. Is there anything safe I can use that'll dissolve the calcium deposits that isn't a nasty acid of some sort? -- Maggie What a coincidence! I bought a cheap low-flow toilet 19 years ago. I'd use CLR and and the kind of abrasive pad that looks a little like an air filter, to keep the rim clean, but it was only a few days ago that I paid attention to the dark stains at the bottom. I waited until I wouldn't need the toilet for a couple of hours. I shut off the water, flushed, shoved in a brush to push some of the remaining water out, and added a maybe 1/2 ounce of CLR. When I came back and brushed, dark cloudiness showed it was working. I discovered that 15 minutes after shutting off the water and flushing, the bowl might be full again. Without much water in the tank to press the flapper down, I guess it can seep. I repeated it whenever the toilet would be idle for a period of hours. Sometimes I used CLR and sometimes vinegar. The cloudiness when I came back and brushed showed that they both worked. That cheap toilet has a corner at the very bottom. That was the last spot to come clean. Some recommend muriatic acid, but I'd be afraid of pitting the glazing. |
#127
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On 7/24/2015 3:56 PM, Muggles wrote:
I have this stubborn calcium deposit stuck to my toilet bowl, and I've tried everything I can find off the store shelves that I'd normally clean it with and nothing seems to work. I actually got some of it to chip off, but it's a pain to even get that to come off. Is there anything safe I can use that'll dissolve the calcium deposits that isn't a nasty acid of some sort? See "Method 2 of 2: Muriatic Acid Method" http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Slow-Toilet gee ... that sounds dangerous for me to try, anyway. I'm thinking that trying a less dangerous acid might be better for me. Nasty acids often are what works on calcium deposits. CLR cleaning product is phosphoric and glycolic acids. Worked, for me. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#128
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 4:00 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 7/24/15 2:29 PM, Muggles wrote: I have this stubborn calcium deposit stuck to my toilet bowl, and I've tried everything I can find off the store shelves that I'd normally clean it with and nothing seems to work. I actually got some of it to chip off, but it's a pain to even get that to come off. Is there anything safe I can use that'll dissolve the calcium deposits that isn't a nasty acid of some sort? -- Maggie What a coincidence! I bought a cheap low-flow toilet 19 years ago. I'd use CLR and and the kind of abrasive pad that looks a little like an air filter, to keep the rim clean, but it was only a few days ago that I paid attention to the dark stains at the bottom. I waited until I wouldn't need the toilet for a couple of hours. I shut off the water, flushed, shoved in a brush to push some of the remaining water out, and added a maybe 1/2 ounce of CLR. When I came back and brushed, dark cloudiness showed it was working. I discovered that 15 minutes after shutting off the water and flushing, the bowl might be full again. Without much water in the tank to press the flapper down, I guess it can seep. I repeated it whenever the toilet would be idle for a period of hours. Sometimes I used CLR and sometimes vinegar. The cloudiness when I came back and brushed showed that they both worked. That cheap toilet has a corner at the very bottom. That was the last spot to come clean. Some recommend muriatic acid, but I'd be afraid of pitting the glazing. I think I can get CLR at Wal-mart market, so I may try a combination of things like you tried. Heck ... if anything works I'll be happy. -- Maggie |
#129
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Appliance industry warns....
On Fri, 24 Jul 2015 17:00:34 -0400, J Burns
wrote: On 7/24/15 2:29 PM, Muggles wrote: I have this stubborn calcium deposit stuck to my toilet bowl, and I've tried everything I can find off the store shelves that I'd normally clean it with and nothing seems to work. I actually got some of it to chip off, but it's a pain to even get that to come off. Is there anything safe I can use that'll dissolve the calcium deposits that isn't a nasty acid of some sort? -- Maggie What a coincidence! I bought a cheap low-flow toilet 19 years ago. I'd use CLR and and the kind of abrasive pad that looks a little like an air filter, to keep the rim clean, but it was only a few days ago that I paid attention to the dark stains at the bottom. I waited until I wouldn't need the toilet for a couple of hours. I shut off the water, flushed, shoved in a brush to push some of the remaining water out, and added a maybe 1/2 ounce of CLR. When I came back and brushed, dark cloudiness showed it was working. I discovered that 15 minutes after shutting off the water and flushing, the bowl might be full again. Without much water in the tank to press the flapper down, I guess it can seep. I repeated it whenever the toilet would be idle for a period of hours. Sometimes I used CLR and sometimes vinegar. The cloudiness when I came back and brushed showed that they both worked. That cheap toilet has a corner at the very bottom. That was the last spot to come clean. Some recommend muriatic acid, but I'd be afraid of pitting the glazing. If the flush "throat" passage (my term) is not glazed in the toilet it is a valid concern. I've not had a problem with MA in my former rental homes or those I detailed for real estate agents. MA has never harmed a glazing in a modern toilet, YMMV. |
#130
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On 7/24/2015 4:11 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/24/2015 3:56 PM, Muggles wrote: I have this stubborn calcium deposit stuck to my toilet bowl, and I've tried everything I can find off the store shelves that I'd normally clean it with and nothing seems to work. I actually got some of it to chip off, but it's a pain to even get that to come off. Is there anything safe I can use that'll dissolve the calcium deposits that isn't a nasty acid of some sort? See "Method 2 of 2: Muriatic Acid Method" http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Slow-Toilet gee ... that sounds dangerous for me to try, anyway. I'm thinking that trying a less dangerous acid might be better for me. Nasty acids often are what works on calcium deposits. CLR cleaning product is phosphoric and glycolic acids. Worked, for me. I think that makes 3 voting for CLR. -- Maggie |
#131
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns....
On 2015-07-24, Brent wrote:
Before you rent a jack hammer from McLowesDepotBigBoxMart, maybe try some vinegar. http://www.thechemicalblog.co.uk/how...as-a-descaler/ Here's a use for vinegar I never considered: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxIHRMh50kc Disregard the title, it's about vinegar. nb |
#132
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 5:13 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/24/2015 4:00 PM, J Burns wrote: I repeated it whenever the toilet would be idle for a period of hours. Sometimes I used CLR and sometimes vinegar. The cloudiness when I came back and brushed showed that they both worked. That cheap toilet has a corner at the very bottom. That was the last spot to come clean. Some recommend muriatic acid, but I'd be afraid of pitting the glazing. I think I can get CLR at Wal-mart market, so I may try a combination of things like you tried. Heck ... if anything works I'll be happy. Of course, CLR is an evil wicked strong acid that is responsible for the death of baby kittens in Nigeria, on odd numbered Wednesdays. I'd love to hear that you tried a strong acid, found it worked nicely and might do it next time. I've used HCl acid in my toilet bowl, and it did clear up the calcium scale. Gave out some fumes, which were nasty for a while. Sigh. - .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#133
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On 7/24/2015 5:17 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/24/2015 4:11 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: Nasty acids often are what works on calcium deposits. CLR cleaning product is phosphoric and glycolic acids. Worked, for me. I think that makes 3 voting for CLR. On some occasions, the collective wisdom does the job nicely. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#134
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 4:54 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/24/2015 5:13 PM, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 4:00 PM, J Burns wrote: I repeated it whenever the toilet would be idle for a period of hours. Sometimes I used CLR and sometimes vinegar. The cloudiness when I came back and brushed showed that they both worked. That cheap toilet has a corner at the very bottom. That was the last spot to come clean. Some recommend muriatic acid, but I'd be afraid of pitting the glazing. I think I can get CLR at Wal-mart market, so I may try a combination of things like you tried. Heck ... if anything works I'll be happy. Of course, CLR is an evil wicked strong acid that is responsible for the death of baby kittens in Nigeria, on odd numbered Wednesdays. I'd love to hear that you tried a strong acid, found it worked nicely and might do it next time. I've used HCl acid in my toilet bowl, and it did clear up the calcium scale. Gave out some fumes, which were nasty for a while. Sigh. Does the CLR do the same with the nasty fumes? -- Maggie |
#135
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On 7/24/2015 4:55 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/24/2015 5:17 PM, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 4:11 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: Nasty acids often are what works on calcium deposits. CLR cleaning product is phosphoric and glycolic acids. Worked, for me. I think that makes 3 voting for CLR. On some occasions, the collective wisdom does the job nicely. I've learned a lot from just reading the group, and I appreciate the help when I've asked questions. -- Maggie |
#136
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On Fri, 24 Jul 2015 17:00:45 -0500, Muggles wrote:
On some occasions, the collective wisdom does the job nicely. I've learned a lot from just reading the group, and I appreciate the help when I've asked questions. People can give better advice when a poster answers question asked. Like when I asked if the calcium deposit was under water or under the rim bowl. |
#137
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Appliance industry warns....Brown water
On 7/24/15 3:40 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2015-07-24, J Burns wrote: In the 1990s, Bayer..... Dirtbags from the git. Isn't magnesium the med we need, but there's a limit to how much you can buy as a supplement? nb I'm skeptical of pills. If the supplement gets to the intestine, it may not be absorbed and may interfere with the absorption of calcium. Fifteen years ago, people could see I was deathly I'll, and the cause was a mystery. An endocrinologist (a PhD and not an MD) said my small intestine was full of holes. He recommended cooked carrots with butter for Vitamin A, and Epsom salt for magnesium. In a few weeks I was better and quit the Epsom salt. After a couple of months, my digestion was still fine, but I realized I was doing worse in other ways. I resumed the Epsom salt and never regretted it. If you took a teaspoon or two of Epsom salt, it would get to the intestine and, by holding water, act as a laxative. My adviser recommended 1/8 tsp in a glass of water 3 times a day. An eighth tsp is only about 60 mg. The old RDA was 400 mg, and some say it should be 1000. That little bit in a glass of water isn't much to correct a deficiency. I began mixing 1/2 tsp per pint of water and keeping it in a clear plastic sports bottle in the counter. Like an animal going to a salt lick, I'd take a drink when I had a taste for magnesium. Typically, I drink two bottles a day. That would be 500 mg, half the RDA some recommend. The dilution helps my stomach absorb it quickly, like a shot of liquor on an empty stomach. Come to think of it, it affects me a little like liquor. I feel refreshed, relaxed, and energized. Last Christmas, three different people gave me chocolate candy. For a week or so, I ate a lot of candy. I noticed my thirst for magnesium water shot up to about four bottles a day. One function of magnesium is to get insulin into the cells, where it belongs, and more sugar requires more insulin. I guess magnesium is lost in the process. If insulin has trouble getting into the cells, that's insulin resistance, which leads to diabetes. |
#138
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/22/15 8:09 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/21/2015 10:16 PM, Roger Blake wrote: We don't need cadre of armed thugs (which is all that government is) dictating every aspect of our lives. I still use full-flow toilets and shower heads, and in general refuse to follow the dictates of the federal scumbags. They're little more than a criminal gang -- screw the *******s. I've noted a disagrement or two with Robert Green. He does seem a bit left of myself on a few matters. And I do agree that the US gov has changed from servants of the people to Our Nations Leaders. Perhaps it was always that way, but recently ever so much more so. Have you forgotten the whiskey tax? Hamilton said it wouldn't help the budget but would show the common people who was boss. It didn't help the federal budget, but it did wonders for Washington's. He diversified from marijuana into liquor. Taxed at a far lower rate than guys like me, he ran the biggest still in North America. I could have been on easy street if I could have sold the stuff I distilled in the cellar in grammar school. (I told the pharmacist I was buying the equipment for my chemistry set. The cellar was so dirty that my parents never went down there.) Darned government interference! I wanted to hire Robert Mitchum to transport it. Then somebody told me Thunder Road was fiction. My mother's uncle got caught. Every Wednesday, the warden gave him a 24-hour pass to tend the still the feds hadn't found. Naturally, the prison staff invited him to their parties. |
#139
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On 7/24/2015 5:42 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jul 2015 17:00:45 -0500, Muggles wrote: On some occasions, the collective wisdom does the job nicely. I've learned a lot from just reading the group, and I appreciate the help when I've asked questions. People can give better advice when a poster answers question asked. Like when I asked if the calcium deposit was under water or under the rim bowl. Sorry, I remember you asking. I was going to respond, but got distracted with a project I'm working on. The calcium deposit is below the water line. I don't see any above the water line at all. -- Maggie |
#140
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Appliance industry warns....Brown water
On 7/24/2015 5:47 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 7/24/15 3:40 PM, notbob wrote: On 2015-07-24, J Burns wrote: In the 1990s, Bayer..... Dirtbags from the git. Isn't magnesium the med we need, but there's a limit to how much you can buy as a supplement? nb I'm skeptical of pills. If the supplement gets to the intestine, it may not be absorbed and may interfere with the absorption of calcium. Fifteen years ago, people could see I was deathly I'll, and the cause was a mystery. An endocrinologist (a PhD and not an MD) said my small intestine was full of holes. He recommended cooked carrots with butter for Vitamin A, and Epsom salt for magnesium. In a few weeks I was better and quit the Epsom salt. After a couple of months, my digestion was still fine, but I realized I was doing worse in other ways. I resumed the Epsom salt and never regretted it. If you took a teaspoon or two of Epsom salt, it would get to the intestine and, by holding water, act as a laxative. My adviser recommended 1/8 tsp in a glass of water 3 times a day. An eighth tsp is only about 60 mg. The old RDA was 400 mg, and some say it should be 1000. That little bit in a glass of water isn't much to correct a deficiency. I began mixing 1/2 tsp per pint of water and keeping it in a clear plastic sports bottle in the counter. Like an animal going to a salt lick, I'd take a drink when I had a taste for magnesium. Typically, I drink two bottles a day. That would be 500 mg, half the RDA some recommend. The dilution helps my stomach absorb it quickly, like a shot of liquor on an empty stomach. Come to think of it, it affects me a little like liquor. I feel refreshed, relaxed, and energized. Last Christmas, three different people gave me chocolate candy. For a week or so, I ate a lot of candy. I noticed my thirst for magnesium water shot up to about four bottles a day. One function of magnesium is to get insulin into the cells, where it belongs, and more sugar requires more insulin. I guess magnesium is lost in the process. If insulin has trouble getting into the cells, that's insulin resistance, which leads to diabetes. I've never heard of drinking a dilution of Epsom salt before. Is it something that only works for certain blood types, or something that's common for everyone? -- Maggie |
#141
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/15 5:59 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/24/2015 4:54 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: On 7/24/2015 5:13 PM, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 4:00 PM, J Burns wrote: I repeated it whenever the toilet would be idle for a period of hours. Sometimes I used CLR and sometimes vinegar. The cloudiness when I came back and brushed showed that they both worked. That cheap toilet has a corner at the very bottom. That was the last spot to come clean. Some recommend muriatic acid, but I'd be afraid of pitting the glazing. I think I can get CLR at Wal-mart market, so I may try a combination of things like you tried. Heck ... if anything works I'll be happy. Of course, CLR is an evil wicked strong acid that is responsible for the death of baby kittens in Nigeria, on odd numbered Wednesdays. I'd love to hear that you tried a strong acid, found it worked nicely and might do it next time. I've used HCl acid in my toilet bowl, and it did clear up the calcium scale. Gave out some fumes, which were nasty for a while. Sigh. Does the CLR do the same with the nasty fumes? Nah. Besides water, the main ingredient is glycolic acid. It's a little stronger than the acetic acid in vinegar, but it's also an ingredient in skin-care products. |
#142
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Appliance industry warns....Brown water
On 7/24/15 8:40 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/24/2015 5:47 PM, J Burns wrote: On 7/24/15 3:40 PM, notbob wrote: On 2015-07-24, J Burns wrote: In the 1990s, Bayer..... Dirtbags from the git. Isn't magnesium the med we need, but there's a limit to how much you can buy as a supplement? nb I'm skeptical of pills. If the supplement gets to the intestine, it may not be absorbed and may interfere with the absorption of calcium. Fifteen years ago, people could see I was deathly I'll, and the cause was a mystery. An endocrinologist (a PhD and not an MD) said my small intestine was full of holes. He recommended cooked carrots with butter for Vitamin A, and Epsom salt for magnesium. In a few weeks I was better and quit the Epsom salt. After a couple of months, my digestion was still fine, but I realized I was doing worse in other ways. I resumed the Epsom salt and never regretted it. If you took a teaspoon or two of Epsom salt, it would get to the intestine and, by holding water, act as a laxative. My adviser recommended 1/8 tsp in a glass of water 3 times a day. An eighth tsp is only about 60 mg. The old RDA was 400 mg, and some say it should be 1000. That little bit in a glass of water isn't much to correct a deficiency. I began mixing 1/2 tsp per pint of water and keeping it in a clear plastic sports bottle in the counter. Like an animal going to a salt lick, I'd take a drink when I had a taste for magnesium. Typically, I drink two bottles a day. That would be 500 mg, half the RDA some recommend. The dilution helps my stomach absorb it quickly, like a shot of liquor on an empty stomach. Come to think of it, it affects me a little like liquor. I feel refreshed, relaxed, and energized. Last Christmas, three different people gave me chocolate candy. For a week or so, I ate a lot of candy. I noticed my thirst for magnesium water shot up to about four bottles a day. One function of magnesium is to get insulin into the cells, where it belongs, and more sugar requires more insulin. I guess magnesium is lost in the process. If insulin has trouble getting into the cells, that's insulin resistance, which leads to diabetes. I've never heard of drinking a dilution of Epsom salt before. Is it something that only works for certain blood types, or something that's common for everyone? It's not common, but for many centuries, people have drunk mineral water for their health. Magnesium seems to be the most important mineral in mineral water. I think of my mix as homemade mineral water, just enough magnesium to give it a taste that hits the spot. People used to bathe in mineral springs for their health. Until the last few decades, it was common to bathe in homemade mineral water: Epsom salt in a bath tub. You can absorb it a lot faster that way than by drinking. They joke that the only danger from all that magnesium is that maybe it will be so relaxing that you'll fall asleep and drown. A few years ago, I met my neighbor's father when he came in his pickup truck to rake and haul away leaves. At 93, he was physically and mentally as spry as any teen I've known. Later, my friend recalled that every Saturday night, his father bathed in Epsom salt. I read of a British experiment where the magnesium in subjects' urine was tracked during a regimen of an Epsom salt bath every two days. (Or was it four days?) IIRC, it took four baths for magnesium measurements to level out. If excretion was less than intake for three big doses (baths), it was taken to mean all subjects were quite deficient. Doctors advise taking aspirin to reduce the chance of coronary thrombosis. Research has shown that only buffered aspirin works. What's the difference? Buffered aspirin has magnesium, which is vital in regulating clotting. Why take aspirin, which could cause bleeding problems, when magnesium won't? |
#143
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 5:59 PM, Muggles wrote:
Of course, CLR is an evil wicked strong acid that is responsible for the death of baby kittens in Nigeria, on odd numbered Wednesdays. I'd love to hear that you tried a strong acid, found it worked nicely and might do it next time. I've used HCl acid in my toilet bowl, and it did clear up the calcium scale. Gave out some fumes, which were nasty for a while. Sigh. Does the CLR do the same with the nasty fumes? I've never been fumed by CLR. Nitric or hydrochloric, yes. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#144
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On 7/24/2015 6:00 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/24/2015 4:55 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: On some occasions, the collective wisdom does the job nicely. I've learned a lot from just reading the group, and I appreciate the help when I've asked questions. Agree. I was impressed with all I learned about garage door weather strip. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#145
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/15 12:54 AM, Robert Green wrote:
That's probably the reason because if it really is necessary to raise the temp to 160F, then someone would have done it by now just as a selling point. I wonder, though, since most dish/flat ware is non-porous if it is actually just as good to thoroughly strip the surfaces of any particles. I sent a lot of dishes back through that had dried egg on them, one of the most mucilaginous substances in the world. In the service, we were instructed to use four garbage cans to clean mess kits. The first was to scrape garbage. The second was very hot water with soap. We were told to use a sort of toilet brush. The third had a hot disinfectant. The fourth had hot rinse water. In my experience, they were boiling or close to it. The 1977 manual simply says to dip it in water with any soap or detergent at 130 F, then rinse 30 seconds in boiling water. It also says to dip 3 seconds in boiling water before eating. wow! Ten times longer to rinse off the detergent than to wash for eating! That's what I don't like about using detergent in the sink. We were instructed to be sure to get all the grease off, because germs could grow there that could later cause food poisoning. That's what I like about borax. As long as there's not a lot of grease, like my greasy fingers, it's quick and thorough removing grease and other stuff, and it doesn't even need hot water. There could be a stray germ on a clean surface, but I figure what won't make me sick. My riveted stainless ladle may be my Achilles heel in kitchen sanitation. It can't be washed in a dishwasher because it has a wooden handle. There are crannies where the handle is riveted to the bowl. If there's a colony of pathogens in a cranny when I dip the ladle in stew at 140 F on the stove, and the rest of the stew sits on the stove awhile before I think it's cool enough to refrigerate, and it cools slowly in the refrigerator, and I don't reboil it before eating it... dirt I didn't notice in the ladle could cause food poisoning. Borax seems to clean that ladle better than detergent. Oh yes... a neighbor worked at a restaurant. Stuff that didn't go through the dishwasher was sanitized in a deep sink with hot bleach water. The health department would measure the concentration of bleach. Bleach won't kill germs as well if there's too much. |
#146
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 8:40 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 7/24/15 5:59 PM, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 4:54 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: On 7/24/2015 5:13 PM, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 4:00 PM, J Burns wrote: I repeated it whenever the toilet would be idle for a period of hours. Sometimes I used CLR and sometimes vinegar. The cloudiness when I came back and brushed showed that they both worked. That cheap toilet has a corner at the very bottom. That was the last spot to come clean. Some recommend muriatic acid, but I'd be afraid of pitting the glazing. I think I can get CLR at Wal-mart market, so I may try a combination of things like you tried. Heck ... if anything works I'll be happy. Of course, CLR is an evil wicked strong acid that is responsible for the death of baby kittens in Nigeria, on odd numbered Wednesdays. I'd love to hear that you tried a strong acid, found it worked nicely and might do it next time. I've used HCl acid in my toilet bowl, and it did clear up the calcium scale. Gave out some fumes, which were nasty for a while. Sigh. Does the CLR do the same with the nasty fumes? Nah. Besides water, the main ingredient is glycolic acid. It's a little stronger than the acetic acid in vinegar, but it's also an ingredient in skin-care products. ok... thanks for the info. I plan on going shopping some time tomorrow, so I'll pick some up when I go. -- Maggie |
#147
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns....Brown water
On 7/24/2015 9:18 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 7/24/15 8:40 PM, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 5:47 PM, J Burns wrote: On 7/24/15 3:40 PM, notbob wrote: On 2015-07-24, J Burns wrote: In the 1990s, Bayer..... Dirtbags from the git. Isn't magnesium the med we need, but there's a limit to how much you can buy as a supplement? nb I'm skeptical of pills. If the supplement gets to the intestine, it may not be absorbed and may interfere with the absorption of calcium. Fifteen years ago, people could see I was deathly I'll, and the cause was a mystery. An endocrinologist (a PhD and not an MD) said my small intestine was full of holes. He recommended cooked carrots with butter for Vitamin A, and Epsom salt for magnesium. In a few weeks I was better and quit the Epsom salt. After a couple of months, my digestion was still fine, but I realized I was doing worse in other ways. I resumed the Epsom salt and never regretted it. If you took a teaspoon or two of Epsom salt, it would get to the intestine and, by holding water, act as a laxative. My adviser recommended 1/8 tsp in a glass of water 3 times a day. An eighth tsp is only about 60 mg. The old RDA was 400 mg, and some say it should be 1000. That little bit in a glass of water isn't much to correct a deficiency. I began mixing 1/2 tsp per pint of water and keeping it in a clear plastic sports bottle in the counter. Like an animal going to a salt lick, I'd take a drink when I had a taste for magnesium. Typically, I drink two bottles a day. That would be 500 mg, half the RDA some recommend. The dilution helps my stomach absorb it quickly, like a shot of liquor on an empty stomach. Come to think of it, it affects me a little like liquor. I feel refreshed, relaxed, and energized. Last Christmas, three different people gave me chocolate candy. For a week or so, I ate a lot of candy. I noticed my thirst for magnesium water shot up to about four bottles a day. One function of magnesium is to get insulin into the cells, where it belongs, and more sugar requires more insulin. I guess magnesium is lost in the process. If insulin has trouble getting into the cells, that's insulin resistance, which leads to diabetes. I've never heard of drinking a dilution of Epsom salt before. Is it something that only works for certain blood types, or something that's common for everyone? It's not common, but for many centuries, people have drunk mineral water for their health. Magnesium seems to be the most important mineral in mineral water. I think of my mix as homemade mineral water, just enough magnesium to give it a taste that hits the spot. People used to bathe in mineral springs for their health. Until the last few decades, it was common to bathe in homemade mineral water: Epsom salt in a bath tub. You can absorb it a lot faster that way than by drinking. They joke that the only danger from all that magnesium is that maybe it will be so relaxing that you'll fall asleep and drown. No kidding? I'm going to have to try that because some nights I just don't sleep well because of a painful bursitis in my hip. I hate taking pain killers cuz they make me feel groggy the next morning. I think I'll try it tonight, too. Thanks for the tip. A few years ago, I met my neighbor's father when he came in his pickup truck to rake and haul away leaves. At 93, he was physically and mentally as spry as any teen I've known. Later, my friend recalled that every Saturday night, his father bathed in Epsom salt. I read of a British experiment where the magnesium in subjects' urine was tracked during a regimen of an Epsom salt bath every two days. (Or was it four days?) IIRC, it took four baths for magnesium measurements to level out. If excretion was less than intake for three big doses (baths), it was taken to mean all subjects were quite deficient. Doctors advise taking aspirin to reduce the chance of coronary thrombosis. Research has shown that only buffered aspirin works. What's the difference? Buffered aspirin has magnesium, which is vital in regulating clotting. Why take aspirin, which could cause bleeding problems, when magnesium won't? I've got some epsom salt, so I'll see how that works for me. I appreciate the information. -- Maggie |
#148
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 9:39 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/24/2015 5:59 PM, Muggles wrote: Of course, CLR is an evil wicked strong acid that is responsible for the death of baby kittens in Nigeria, on odd numbered Wednesdays. I'd love to hear that you tried a strong acid, found it worked nicely and might do it next time. I've used HCl acid in my toilet bowl, and it did clear up the calcium scale. Gave out some fumes, which were nasty for a while. Sigh. Does the CLR do the same with the nasty fumes? I've never been fumed by CLR. Nitric or hydrochloric, yes. ok -- Maggie |
#149
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On 7/24/2015 9:40 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/24/2015 6:00 PM, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 4:55 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: On some occasions, the collective wisdom does the job nicely. I've learned a lot from just reading the group, and I appreciate the help when I've asked questions. Agree. I was impressed with all I learned about garage door weather strip. I've ventured out on my own and working on a project for my bathroom. I need a shelf that's 36" x 4" and I couldn't find one like that, so I bought myself a 1/2"x 36"x 4" pc of pine and sanded it by hand rounding off the edges, today. I'm painting it, too, and it's drying now. The problem is although the paint is dry to the touch the humidity is pretty high here, even indoors. So, I put it near one of our AC units in hopes that it would pull out the moisture from the board/paint/surroundings so the paint would dry completely. I guess I'll see if that works by morning. Do you have any other ideas on how to get the paint to dry in high humidity? I know AC's work better by using the humidity in the air to cool, but not sure if I'm on the right track or not with this painted shelf. -- Maggie |
#150
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/15 5:14 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jul 2015 17:00:34 -0400, J Burns wrote: On 7/24/15 2:29 PM, Muggles wrote: I have this stubborn calcium deposit stuck to my toilet bowl, and I've tried everything I can find off the store shelves that I'd normally clean it with and nothing seems to work. I actually got some of it to chip off, but it's a pain to even get that to come off. Is there anything safe I can use that'll dissolve the calcium deposits that isn't a nasty acid of some sort? -- Maggie What a coincidence! I bought a cheap low-flow toilet 19 years ago. I'd use CLR and and the kind of abrasive pad that looks a little like an air filter, to keep the rim clean, but it was only a few days ago that I paid attention to the dark stains at the bottom. I waited until I wouldn't need the toilet for a couple of hours. I shut off the water, flushed, shoved in a brush to push some of the remaining water out, and added a maybe 1/2 ounce of CLR. When I came back and brushed, dark cloudiness showed it was working. I discovered that 15 minutes after shutting off the water and flushing, the bowl might be full again. Without much water in the tank to press the flapper down, I guess it can seep. I repeated it whenever the toilet would be idle for a period of hours. Sometimes I used CLR and sometimes vinegar. The cloudiness when I came back and brushed showed that they both worked. That cheap toilet has a corner at the very bottom. That was the last spot to come clean. Some recommend muriatic acid, but I'd be afraid of pitting the glazing. If the flush "throat" passage (my term) is not glazed in the toilet it is a valid concern. I've not had a problem with MA in my former rental homes or those I detailed for real estate agents. MA has never harmed a glazing in a modern toilet, YMMV. I wonder if it's possible to check the whole "windpipe" (most of it invisible and above the water line), to assure smooth passage of precious cargo. I also wonder if the whole windpipe in a cheap toilet is glazed. I'll see if Amazon sells those cameras proctologists use! |
#151
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On 7/24/15 11:36 PM, Muggles wrote:
I've ventured out on my own and working on a project for my bathroom. I need a shelf that's 36" x 4" and I couldn't find one like that, so I bought myself a 1/2"x 36"x 4" pc of pine and sanded it by hand rounding off the edges, today. I'm painting it, too, and it's drying now. The problem is although the paint is dry to the touch the humidity is pretty high here, even indoors. So, I put it near one of our AC units in hopes that it would pull out the moisture from the board/paint/surroundings so the paint would dry completely. I guess I'll see if that works by morning. Do you have any other ideas on how to get the paint to dry in high humidity? I know AC's work better by using the humidity in the air to cool, but not sure if I'm on the right track or not with this painted shelf. When the outdoor temperature warms up during the day, the relative humidity will probably be lower outside than inside in the afternoon, even if the moisture content (dew point) is a little higher outside. Hotter air means lower relative humidity. The best place to dry something is in the sun. |
#152
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On 7/24/2015 10:53 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 7/24/15 11:36 PM, Muggles wrote: I've ventured out on my own and working on a project for my bathroom. I need a shelf that's 36" x 4" and I couldn't find one like that, so I bought myself a 1/2"x 36"x 4" pc of pine and sanded it by hand rounding off the edges, today. I'm painting it, too, and it's drying now. The problem is although the paint is dry to the touch the humidity is pretty high here, even indoors. So, I put it near one of our AC units in hopes that it would pull out the moisture from the board/paint/surroundings so the paint would dry completely. I guess I'll see if that works by morning. Do you have any other ideas on how to get the paint to dry in high humidity? I know AC's work better by using the humidity in the air to cool, but not sure if I'm on the right track or not with this painted shelf. When the outdoor temperature warms up during the day, the relative humidity will probably be lower outside than inside in the afternoon, even if the moisture content (dew point) is a little higher outside. Hotter air means lower relative humidity. The best place to dry something is in the sun. ok If it's still not completely dry in the morning, I'll put it outside in the sun. We have plenty of that to go around and high temps on top of that. -- Maggie |
#153
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns....Brown water
On 7/24/15 11:27 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/24/2015 9:18 PM, J Burns wrote: On 7/24/15 8:40 PM, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 5:47 PM, J Burns wrote: On 7/24/15 3:40 PM, notbob wrote: On 2015-07-24, J Burns wrote: In the 1990s, Bayer..... Dirtbags from the git. Isn't magnesium the med we need, but there's a limit to how much you can buy as a supplement? nb I'm skeptical of pills. If the supplement gets to the intestine, it may not be absorbed and may interfere with the absorption of calcium. Fifteen years ago, people could see I was deathly I'll, and the cause was a mystery. An endocrinologist (a PhD and not an MD) said my small intestine was full of holes. He recommended cooked carrots with butter for Vitamin A, and Epsom salt for magnesium. In a few weeks I was better and quit the Epsom salt. After a couple of months, my digestion was still fine, but I realized I was doing worse in other ways. I resumed the Epsom salt and never regretted it. If you took a teaspoon or two of Epsom salt, it would get to the intestine and, by holding water, act as a laxative. My adviser recommended 1/8 tsp in a glass of water 3 times a day. An eighth tsp is only about 60 mg. The old RDA was 400 mg, and some say it should be 1000. That little bit in a glass of water isn't much to correct a deficiency. I began mixing 1/2 tsp per pint of water and keeping it in a clear plastic sports bottle in the counter. Like an animal going to a salt lick, I'd take a drink when I had a taste for magnesium. Typically, I drink two bottles a day. That would be 500 mg, half the RDA some recommend. The dilution helps my stomach absorb it quickly, like a shot of liquor on an empty stomach. Come to think of it, it affects me a little like liquor. I feel refreshed, relaxed, and energized. Last Christmas, three different people gave me chocolate candy. For a week or so, I ate a lot of candy. I noticed my thirst for magnesium water shot up to about four bottles a day. One function of magnesium is to get insulin into the cells, where it belongs, and more sugar requires more insulin. I guess magnesium is lost in the process. If insulin has trouble getting into the cells, that's insulin resistance, which leads to diabetes. I've never heard of drinking a dilution of Epsom salt before. Is it something that only works for certain blood types, or something that's common for everyone? It's not common, but for many centuries, people have drunk mineral water for their health. Magnesium seems to be the most important mineral in mineral water. I think of my mix as homemade mineral water, just enough magnesium to give it a taste that hits the spot. People used to bathe in mineral springs for their health. Until the last few decades, it was common to bathe in homemade mineral water: Epsom salt in a bath tub. You can absorb it a lot faster that way than by drinking. They joke that the only danger from all that magnesium is that maybe it will be so relaxing that you'll fall asleep and drown. No kidding? I'm going to have to try that because some nights I just don't sleep well because of a painful bursitis in my hip. I hate taking pain killers cuz they make me feel groggy the next morning. I think I'll try it tonight, too. Thanks for the tip. Years ago I persuaded my sister to try it. She raved about how much energy it gave her in the morning. She said she was afraid to take any after noon because something that potent would keep her awake all night. I told her the same mineral that perks me up like coffee in the morning, relaxes me like a nightcap at bedtime. My brother contacted me in desperation. Doctors were prescribing sedatives, but he hadn't been sleeping. I told him about Epsom salt. If you're deficient in magnesium, your brain may have trouble switching down to a rest mode. He tried it, quit the drugs, and raved about it. My sister insisted on putting a little Epsom salt in her hand and washing it down with water. Mixing Epsom salt in water worked well for my brother, but he changed to pills because he felt that was the proper way to take a supplement. I think they're wrong. If you dilute it and drink it, it will reach your blood quickly, and your body will associate the effects with the taste. That way, it can tell you when more would be good, just as it tells you how fast to breathe. Your consumption can vary according to your requirement that day. My aunt is a retired nurse. She began keeping a bottle on the counter because I recommended it. She says she knows it's good because it tastes better than tap water. That's why I drink it, too. It tastes good because it had good effects. A few years ago, I met my neighbor's father when he came in his pickup truck to rake and haul away leaves. At 93, he was physically and mentally as spry as any teen I've known. Later, my friend recalled that every Saturday night, his father bathed in Epsom salt. I read of a British experiment where the magnesium in subjects' urine was tracked during a regimen of an Epsom salt bath every two days. (Or was it four days?) IIRC, it took four baths for magnesium measurements to level out. If excretion was less than intake for three big doses (baths), it was taken to mean all subjects were quite deficient. Doctors advise taking aspirin to reduce the chance of coronary thrombosis. Research has shown that only buffered aspirin works. What's the difference? Buffered aspirin has magnesium, which is vital in regulating clotting. Why take aspirin, which could cause bleeding problems, when magnesium won't? I've got some epsom salt, so I'll see how that works for me. I appreciate the information. Most of what's for sale says USP. That means it's safe to swallow. USP grade can have up to 1% impurities, IIRC, but they're known to be safe. Periodically, I've used baking soda to clean out a brownish deposit in the bottom of my bottle. I think maybe it came from iron in the Epsom salt. My last container of Epsom salt was a four-pound Rexall bag. Recently I started using a 1-pound Rexall bag. My first drink was a disappointment. It tasted like tap water! In a couple of minutes I knew it was Epsom salt because it had hit the spot. I guess what I've been tasting all these years was a trace mineral in the Epsom salt. Maybe the Rexall salt is now more purified, or maybe it comes from a different mine. I feel like a beer drinker whose favorite brand is no longer available! |
#154
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 11:22 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 7/24/2015 8:40 PM, J Burns wrote: Does the CLR do the same with the nasty fumes? Nah. Besides water, the main ingredient is glycolic acid. It's a little stronger than the acetic acid in vinegar, but it's also an ingredient in skin-care products. ok... thanks for the info. I plan on going shopping some time tomorrow, so I'll pick some up when I go. And for those of us reading, please let us know if the stuff works for you. Always nice to hear from real people about real world experience. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#155
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/24/2015 11:38 PM, J Burns wrote:
I wonder if it's possible to check the whole "windpipe" (most of it invisible and above the water line), to assure smooth passage of precious cargo. I also wonder if the whole windpipe in a cheap toilet is glazed. I'll see if Amazon sells those cameras proctologists use! If you wish, skip the inspection step and go directly to closet auger. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#156
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns.... paint still wet
On 7/24/2015 11:36 PM, Muggles wrote:
I've ventured out on my own and working on a project for my bathroom. I need a shelf that's 36" x 4" and I couldn't find one like that, so I bought myself a 1/2"x 36"x 4" pc of pine and sanded it by hand rounding off the edges, today. I'm painting it, too, and it's drying now. The problem is although the paint is dry to the touch the humidity is pretty high here, even indoors. So, I put it near one of our AC units in hopes that it would pull out the moisture from the board/paint/surroundings so the paint would dry completely. I guess I'll see if that works by morning. Do you have any other ideas on how to get the paint to dry in high humidity? I know AC's work better by using the humidity in the air to cool, but not sure if I'm on the right track or not with this painted shelf. My photo copier repair guy used to advise me to store paper in a frost free refrigerator, dry worked better. Less likely to do paper jams. I think that using air conditioned air sounds perfect. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#157
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Appliance industry warns....
On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 2:29:15 PM UTC-4, Muggles wrote:
On 7/24/2015 1:06 PM, J Burns wrote: On 7/23/15 1:55 AM, Robert Green wrote: "J Burns" wrote in message stuff snipped A paper towel costs 150 times more than a sheet of toilet paper. It's harder to rip off the roll with one hand, and paper towels fill a waste basket in a hurry . . . I'm going to find me a pecan stick so I can use a couple of pieces of wire to hang a toilet paper roll. Then I'll have a state-of-the-art toilet-paper-and-borax kitchen. I mounted a toilet paper roll inside a kitchen cabinet door for the same reason: Keeping as much grease as possible from going into the drain. Cheaper than paper towels, that's for sure. Yeah, toilet tissue picks up grease better than water, and it takes up very little space in the waste basket. Maybe I could sell those wads to start charcoal fires! I've been keeping a sprayer with borax by the sink a couple of months, dispensing it several times a day. Last night I saw my first roach in a long time. It was on the dining-room carpet. Their speed can be frustrating for a hunter without a shotgun, so I got my sprayer and turned the nozzle to squirt. Borax won't hurt a carpet. It will kill a bug before long, but the immediate effect is uncertain. It made him so slow that stepping on him felt unsporting. I have this stubborn calcium deposit stuck to my toilet bowl, and I've tried everything I can find off the store shelves that I'd normally clean it with and nothing seems to work. I actually got some of it to chip off, but it's a pain to even get that to come off. Is there anything safe I can use that'll dissolve the calcium deposits that isn't a nasty acid of some sort? -- Maggie muriatic acid isnt nearly as hazardous as some believe. pour some down the dip tube to clean the bowl rim |
#158
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Appliance industry warns.... calcium deposits need acids
On Fri, 24 Jul 2015 19:36:38 -0500, Muggles wrote:
The calcium deposit is below the water line. I don't see any above the water line at all. You can remove water from the bowl down to just above the calcium deposit and then pour in the CLR. I'd give plenty of time to work and dissolve the spot, This, at the same time, ought to clean any calcium on the bottom. |
#159
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Appliance industry warns....
On 7/25/2015 8:15 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/24/2015 11:22 PM, Muggles wrote: On 7/24/2015 8:40 PM, J Burns wrote: Does the CLR do the same with the nasty fumes? Nah. Besides water, the main ingredient is glycolic acid. It's a little stronger than the acetic acid in vinegar, but it's also an ingredient in skin-care products. ok... thanks for the info. I plan on going shopping some time tomorrow, so I'll pick some up when I go. And for those of us reading, please let us know if the stuff works for you. Always nice to hear from real people about real world experience. I sure will post the results. It'll be this afternoon before I get to the store, though, so I'll probably try the product later today. -- Maggie |
#160
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Appliance industry warns.... paint still wet
On 7/25/2015 8:18 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/24/2015 11:36 PM, Muggles wrote: I've ventured out on my own and working on a project for my bathroom. I need a shelf that's 36" x 4" and I couldn't find one like that, so I bought myself a 1/2"x 36"x 4" pc of pine and sanded it by hand rounding off the edges, today. I'm painting it, too, and it's drying now. The problem is although the paint is dry to the touch the humidity is pretty high here, even indoors. So, I put it near one of our AC units in hopes that it would pull out the moisture from the board/paint/surroundings so the paint would dry completely. I guess I'll see if that works by morning. Do you have any other ideas on how to get the paint to dry in high humidity? I know AC's work better by using the humidity in the air to cool, but not sure if I'm on the right track or not with this painted shelf. My photo copier repair guy used to advise me to store paper in a frost free refrigerator, dry worked better. Less likely to do paper jams. I think that using air conditioned air sounds perfect. ok thanks .. -- Maggie |
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