[WW[_3_]]

After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

--

[RobertMacy]

On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 16:44:01 -0700, WW
wrote:

After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create
this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.



Is cutting an alcove into the offending wall not an option?

[philoÂ]

On 04/10/2014 06:44 PM, WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.




That does not sound like a very practical idea the chances of getting
something to fit and not leak are pretty slim. I'd get a toilet with the
dimensions of the previous one or a "high tank" toilet.

[Oren[_2_]]

On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 23:44:01 +0000, WW
wrote:

After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

Toilets have what is called an offset from the wall. You may have the
wrong one?

The offset is measured from the finished wall to the center of the
drain pipe, usually. You may find an offset flange that will give you
the distance from the wall to pipe measurement, that you need.

The offset is figured with a finished wall or compensated for drywall

http://www.johnbridge.com/images/mike2/For%20Liberry%20Stuff/Plumbing/Toilet%20Rough%20In.jpg

http://www.ursuspacificus.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/dscn1955_480x360.jpg

http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/installing-a-toilet.jpg

[Stormin Mormon[_10_]]

On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 16:44:01 -0700, WW
wrote:


Sigh. Another moaner who doesn't know
what usenet is.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

[Tony Hwang]

philo wrote:
On 04/10/2014 06:44 PM, WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create
this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.




That does not sound like a very practical idea the chances of getting
something to fit and not leak are pretty slim. I'd get a toilet with the
dimensions of the previous one or a "high tank" toilet.
Hi,
Measure three time B4 you cut. Does this apply here as well?
For me it is difficult to understand the situation. Is there
a smaller tank available some how?

[DerbyDad03]

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 16:44:01 -0700, WW
wrote:


Sigh. Another moaner who doesn't know
what usenet is.


Sigh. Another unwarranted, unnecessary and unwanted comment.

[nestork]

WW:

I agree with Oren on everything except the terminology. Oren says that different toilets come with different "offsets", and I call those different "rough-ins".

The rough-in is the distance from the middle of the toilet's drain pipe to the surface of the finished wall. Nowadays, most toilets are made to fit a 12 inch rough-in. However, most toilet companies will make toilets that fit a 10 inch rough-in and some will make toilets that fit a 14 inch rough-in. In your case, you probably removed a toilet that had a 10 inch rough-in, and you replaced it with one with a 12 inch rough-in, and now you're discovering that it won't fit properly. If you return the new toilet you have for a refund, and buy a toilet with a 10 inch rough-in, you should be OK.

As I did a Google search for "standard rough-in", I came across this page on e-Bay listing a fair number of brand new toilets that are made with a 10 inch rough-in:

10" Rough in Toilet | eBay

Also, now that you have the toilet out, it's a good idea to paint the area directly behind where the toilet tank will be with several coats of interior oil based primer, which you still should be able to buy, followed by a couple of coats of Zinsser's Perma-White Bathroom Paint. The primer will be impervious to moisture, and you need that in the small gap between the toilet tank and the wall behind. Without that oil based primer, any condensation that accumulates on the wall behind the toilet tank will seep into the plaster or drywall and cause water damage to the wall there. Painting with an alkyd primer prevents the moisture from being absorbed into the plaster or drywall, and thereby prevents that water damage.

[[email protected]]

There are toilet flanges that have an offset. Can you remove the current flange from the drain pipe and use an offset flange? Any reasonable plumbing supply house will have offset flanges. You could also replace the 2x4 in the wall behind the toilet with 2x2 and refinish the wall to create a tiny alcove if the offset flange does not give you enough offset.

[Oren[_2_]]

On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 04:18:22 +0200, nestork
wrote:

I agree with Oren on everything except the terminology. Oren says that
different toilets come with different "offsets", and I call those
different "rough-ins".

Rough-in is the correct term. I had "offset" flange on my mind at the
time

[Mr. Kim M]

replying to nestork , Mr. Kim M wrote:
nestork.d8d1428 wrote:

WW:
I agree with Oren on everything except the terminology. Oren says that
different toilets come with different "offsets", and I call those
different "rough-ins".
The rough-in is the distance from the middle of the toilet's drain pipe
to the surface of the finished wall. Nowadays, most toilets are made to
fit a 12 inch rough-in. However, most toilet companies will make
toilets that fit a 10 inch rough-in and some will make toilets that fit
a 14 inch rough-in. In your case, you probably removed a toilet that
had a 10 inch rough-in, and you replaced it with one with a 12 inch
rough-in, and now you're discovering that it won't fit properly. If you
return the new toilet you have for a refund, and buy a toilet with a 10
inch rough-in, you should be OK.
As I did a Google search for "standard rough-in", I came across this
page on e-Bay listing a fair number of brand new toilets that are made
with a 10 inch rough-in:
'10" Rough in Toilet | eBay'
(http://www.ebay.com/bhp/10-rough-in-toilet)
Also, now that you have the toilet out, it's a good idea to paint the
area directly behind where the toilet tank will be with several coats of
interior oil based primer, which you still should be able to buy,
followed by a couple of coats of Zinsser's Perma-White Bathroom Paint.
The primer will be impervious to moisture, and you need that in the
small gap between the toilet tank and the wall behind. Without that oil
based primer, any condensation that accumulates on the wall behind the
toilet tank will seep into the plaster or drywall and cause water damage
to the wall there. Painting with an alkyd primer prevents the moisture
from being absorbed into the plaster or drywall, and thereby prevents
that water damage.


Thank you for the information. I did measure as you suggested and the
measurements were correct. I did not know the wall is not square. Thank
you again for info.

--

[DanG[_2_]]

On 4/10/2014 6:44 PM, WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.




There are two toilet models. Most common is a 12" rough in, meaning
finish wall to center of floor opening is 12". There are 10" rough in
units that should be readily available. The other recourse would be to
remove the existing floor flange and get and install an offset floor flange:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html. As far as I know
these only come as
1 " and 1 1/2" offsets.


--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

[WW[_2_]]

"WW" wrote in message
oups.com...

After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

-- Some one using my site. The REAL WW

[Moe DeLoughan]

On 4/10/2014 6:44 PM, WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create
this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.


As has already been explained, you needed a toilet to fit a shorter
rough-in space. If you can't get a toilet to fit the smaller area
right away, and need a toilet right now, you can probably make do by
installing a smaller tank, one sized for the confined spaces in RVs
and mobile homes. Odds are it will fit.

[[email protected]]

On Thursday, April 10, 2014 at 7:44:01 PM UTC-4, WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

--
I have issue with 36 yr old Eljer Touch Flush. I have put up with 3 in the house for 30 yrs. I am too cheap to replace. The internal tank parts are garbage. I keep several repair kits on the shlf.
Now master plumbers, I found the tank bolts had rotted away when one dropped to the floor.
I did not pull tank and rplace the gasket. When I got done tightening the bolts the da-- tank is now 1/8" from the wall. So, since I didn't disturb the tank why is it now closer to the wall. I'm thinking the original plumber put it together, found the offset a bit close and left slack in the tank so it would len forward. Great workmanship found out after 30 yr. So, do I leave tank loos?

[[email protected]]

On Mon, 13 Apr 2015 18:01:33 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Thursday, April 10, 2014 at 7:44:01 PM UTC-4, WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

You cant move the flange if it's in concrete. (not affordably anyhow).
You'll just have to get another toilet that fits. I worked as a plumber,
and I ran into that a few times. There is no way to offset the tank,
unless you want to mount the tank on the wall, and run a pipe down (like
they used to do in the early 1900's).

Your other option would be to move the wall a few inches (if it's wood
and plaster, not concrete). Or, I have worked at a few places where
they moved the part of the wall back, (just behind the toilet), by
removing the plaster narrowing the width of the studs, then applying
sheetrock. But that is all a lot of work. Just buy a toilet that fits
your space.

[John G[_8_]]

After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.



2" is quite a move. There is such a thing as an offset flange for predicaments such as yours. Go to a plumbing supply company and ask about solutions to your problem.

[Art Todesco]

On 4/14/2015 6:26 AM, John G wrote:

After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.



2" is quite a move. There is such a thing as an offset flange for predicaments such as yours. Go to a plumbing supply company and ask about solutions to your problem.

There are offset flanges available. They are usually 2" and, I think,
were designed to adapt 14" (wall to waste pipe) toilets to 12" and vice
versa. I used one in a very small powder room where the toilet was
deliberately put in a place so that the door would clear when opening
inward. I changed the door to a pocket door and re-did the cabinets.
In order to "fit" the cabinets, I needed to move the toilet 2" to the
right, basically away towards the door. Unfortunately, the floor was
concrete. I figured it wouldn't be too bad to chisel way a few inches,
however, I eventually had to rent an electric power jack hammer. It
took only about 5 minutes and the job was done. Next the cast iron pipe
needed to be cut about 2" inches shorter (below the floor surface) to
make room for the flange. I used a router with a 2 or 3 inch cutting
wheel on an extension. Because this kludge wasn't rated to be run at
router speed, I used a variac to slow it down. Again it didn't take too
long and it was done. The new flange was inserted with a rubber seal
ring and the floor was patched with concrete. Way too much work, but I
was younger at the time and the whole remodel looked fabulous.

[Moe DeLoughan]

On 4/13/2015 8:01 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, April 10, 2014 at 7:44:01 PM UTC-4, WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit.

Or you need to measure the rough-in from the wall to the sewer pipe,
and this time purchase a toilet that fits that rough-in. Current
toilets generally use a 12-inch rough-in, but older homes frequently
have a 10-inch rough-in. Not every store stocks non-standard toilets,
but you can special order them if necessary. Your other option, if
this is a two-piece toilet, is to purchase a slim-sized tank for
tight/small spaces and attach that to your existing base. Been there,
done that.

[Col. Edmund Burke[_5_]]

wrote in message
...
On Thursday, April 10, 2014 at 7:44:01 PM UTC-4, WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

You buy a toilet that fits, rubber lips.
^@^

[[email protected]]

On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 08:45:51 -0400, Art Todesco
wrote:

There are offset flanges available. They are usually 2" and, I think,
were designed to adapt 14" (wall to waste pipe) toilets to 12" and vice
versa. I used one in a very small powder room where the toilet was
deliberately put in a place so that the door would clear when opening
inward. I changed the door to a pocket door and re-did the cabinets.

You mean they didn't just cut a hunk off the bottom of the door so it
would clear the toilet?

Yes, in my years of working as a plumber, I saw this several times!

[No name]

WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

Move the wall.

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 13:52:25 -0400, No name wrote:

WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

Move the wall.
Turn the toilet sideways, or get a different toilet,. Some take more
space than others. Standard is 12 inches center of pipe to finished
wall, but there are 10 inch offset units available.The Cadet Pro Ada
is available in 10 inch elongated., so is the American Standard Cadet
3. The Kohler Cimmaron round is also available in 10 - likely lots of
others. You can not put your 12 inch toilet in, even with an ofset
flange, and have it flush reliably.

[Moe DeLoughan]

On 4/14/2015 4:35 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 08:45:51 -0400, Art Todesco
wrote:

There are offset flanges available. They are usually 2" and, I think,
were designed to adapt 14" (wall to waste pipe) toilets to 12" and vice
versa. I used one in a very small powder room where the toilet was
deliberately put in a place so that the door would clear when opening
inward. I changed the door to a pocket door and re-did the cabinets.

You mean they didn't just cut a hunk off the bottom of the door so it
would clear the toilet?

Yes, in my years of working as a plumber, I saw this several times!


Years ago, a coworker of mine hired a handyman to replace her toilet.
The handyman failed to check out the existing toilet/bathroom first.
He replaced a round bowl commode with an elongated model. Problem was
just as you've described - it was next to the door, so now the door
hit the rim of the new toilet. The handyman's solution: he cut a slot
in the door at the level of the bowl.

And that, folks, is an example of how hiring a handyman can be a
buyer-beware experience.

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 15:14:08 -0400, wrote:


Move the wall.
Turn the toilet sideways, or get a different toilet,. Some take more
space than others. Standard is 12 inches center of pipe to finished
wall, but there are 10 inch offset units available.The Cadet Pro Ada
is available in 10 inch elongated., so is the American Standard Cadet
3. The Kohler Cimmaron round is also available in 10 - likely lots of
others. You can not put your 12 inch toilet in, even with an ofset
flange, and have it flush reliably.

If people took the time to use a tape measure, they would not get into
this predicament. But the average homeowner most likely thinks all
toilets are the same.

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 14:45:39 -0500, Moe DeLoughan
wrote:

On 4/14/2015 4:35 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 08:45:51 -0400, Art Todesco
wrote:

There are offset flanges available. They are usually 2" and, I think,
were designed to adapt 14" (wall to waste pipe) toilets to 12" and vice
versa. I used one in a very small powder room where the toilet was
deliberately put in a place so that the door would clear when opening
inward. I changed the door to a pocket door and re-did the cabinets.

You mean they didn't just cut a hunk off the bottom of the door so it
would clear the toilet?

Yes, in my years of working as a plumber, I saw this several times!


Years ago, a coworker of mine hired a handyman to replace her toilet.
The handyman failed to check out the existing toilet/bathroom first.
He replaced a round bowl commode with an elongated model. Problem was
just as you've described - it was next to the door, so now the door
hit the rim of the new toilet. The handyman's solution: he cut a slot
in the door at the level of the bowl.

And that, folks, is an example of how hiring a handyman can be a
buyer-beware experience.


Before I became a plumber, I worked as a handyman. That is how I got the
plumbing job. But anyhow, I would have never considered doing such a
thing. I always did things right. In fact I got a few customers wanting
me to do a half assed slop job, thinking it would be cheaper. I would
explain that it would NOT be cheaper, if I had to use junky materials or
patch together a faucet that was clearly overdue for replacement, and so
on. If they insisted on getting a slop job, I usually told them to find
someone else to do the work. I had plenty of work, and did not need to
do jobs which would cause me problems. Doing a half assed job only
invites callbacks, and then they expect the callback work for free.

Anyhow, like everything, there are good and bad workers as well as their
customers.

But yea, I did see more than one door cut to fit around a toilet, and
more than once I was called just to do something about this issued by a
new home owner who bought the house with the cut away door. I recall one
where there was no way to get a toilet that would fit, so after
discussing this with the owner, the solution was to replace the door and
frame, and make the door open outwards, which worked fine.

[Unquestionably Confused]

On 4/15/2015 2:14 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 13:52:25 -0400, No name wrote:

WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

Move the wall.
Turn the toilet sideways, or get a different toilet,. Some take more
space than others. Standard is 12 inches center of pipe to finished
wall, but there are 10 inch offset units available.The Cadet Pro Ada
is available in 10 inch elongated., so is the American Standard Cadet
3. The Kohler Cimmaron round is also available in 10 - likely lots of
others. You can not put your 12 inch toilet in, even with an ofset
flange, and have it flush reliably.


LOL! For a reliable flush with the offset flange, all he needs is a
simple sign "Number 1 ONLY!" If he has guests that cannot read, stretch
a piece of screen across the top of the bowl to discourage repeat offenders.

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 22:05:32 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 4/15/2015 2:14 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 15 Apr 2015 13:52:25 -0400, No name wrote:

WW wrote:
After installing toilet started to finish with installing h20 tank. Water
tank tilts forward. Need to move toilet at least 2 in more away from
wall for tank to fit. Need to insert something into existing system with
an attached flange so I can attach toilet to new flange and secure
properly and have additional space for the water tank to fit.. This is a
existing concrete floor with an existing workable flange. Just need the
extra space. How do I get extra space or What should I use to create this
extra needed space so I can attach water tank to toilet and finish my
project.

Move the wall.
Turn the toilet sideways, or get a different toilet,. Some take more
space than others. Standard is 12 inches center of pipe to finished
wall, but there are 10 inch offset units available.The Cadet Pro Ada
is available in 10 inch elongated., so is the American Standard Cadet
3. The Kohler Cimmaron round is also available in 10 - likely lots of
others. You can not put your 12 inch toilet in, even with an ofset
flange, and have it flush reliably.


LOL! For a reliable flush with the offset flange, all he needs is a
simple sign "Number 1 ONLY!" If he has guests that cannot read, stretch
a piece of screen across the top of the bowl to discourage repeat offenders.
Or replace the john with a urinal

[[email protected]]

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 22:04:41 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

My tolit tank does not fit its 1/2ways in the wall

Sue your plumber.

[[email protected]]

My tolit tank does not fit its 1/2ways in the wall

[Moe DeLoughan]

On 4/26/2016 12:04 AM, wrote:
My tolit tank does not fit its 1/2ways in the wall


Sounds like you didn't measure the rough-in before purchasing your
toilet. The the rough-in is the distance from the wall behind the
toilet to the middle of the waste pipe the toilet will fit over. The
current standard is a 12-inch rough-in, but older homes often have a
10-inch rough-in. You should always measure the rough-in before buying
a new toilet, to make sure you get one that will fit the space.

You'll need to pull the toiler and purchase one that fits the space.
Your local store may have one in stock, or they may have to special
order it for you. If it's a two-piece toilet, you could look for a
smaller, narrower tank designed to fit toilets in mobile homes or RVs
and see if you can make it fit to the existing stool portion of your
current toilet. But installing a toilet sized to fit the space is the
best bet.

[Tekkie®]

Moe DeLoughan posted for all of us...



On 4/26/2016 12:04 AM, wrote:
My tolit tank does not fit its 1/2ways in the wall


Sounds like you didn't measure the rough-in before purchasing your
toilet. The the rough-in is the distance from the wall behind the
toilet to the middle of the waste pipe the toilet will fit over. The
current standard is a 12-inch rough-in, but older homes often have a
10-inch rough-in. You should always measure the rough-in before buying
a new toilet, to make sure you get one that will fit the space.

You'll need to pull the toiler and purchase one that fits the space.
Your local store may have one in stock, or they may have to special
order it for you. If it's a two-piece toilet, you could look for a
smaller, narrower tank designed to fit toilets in mobile homes or RVs
and see if you can make it fit to the existing stool portion of your
current toilet. But installing a toilet sized to fit the space is the
best bet.

He could also try an offset flange in desperation...

--
Tekkie

[Colonel Edmund J. Burke[_16_]]

On 4/25/2016 10:04 PM, wrote:
My tolit tank does not fit its 1/2ways in the wall


There's a rule around my house that says, Don't let fools play with the
tools."
LOL

[Oren[_2_]]

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 14:41:48 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

He could also try an offset flange in desperation...

He could know the rough in size for the toilet from the finished
wail/baseboard, then avoid desperation.

....just sayin'

[[email protected]]

You're an idiot

[TimR[_2_]]

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 2:41:55 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Moe DeLoughan posted for all of us...



On 4/26/2016 12:04 AM, wrote:
My tolit tank does not fit its 1/2ways in the wall


Sounds like you didn't measure the rough-in before purchasing your
toilet. The the rough-in is the distance from the wall behind the
toilet to the middle of the waste pipe the toilet will fit over. The
current standard is a 12-inch rough-in, but older homes often have a
10-inch rough-in. You should always measure the rough-in before buying
a new toilet, to make sure you get one that will fit the space.

You'll need to pull the toiler and purchase one that fits the space.
Your local store may have one in stock, or they may have to special
order it for you. If it's a two-piece toilet, you could look for a
smaller, narrower tank designed to fit toilets in mobile homes or RVs
and see if you can make it fit to the existing stool portion of your
current toilet. But installing a toilet sized to fit the space is the
best bet.

He could also try an offset flange in desperation...

--
Tekkie

We put in a bunch of them at work, in a dorm.

Bad idea. Now we're ripping them all out and redoing. Kept getting backed up toilets.

[Anti-Hypocrite]

replying to nestork, Anti-Hypocrite wrote:
I just bought a 10" rough "Jacuzzi" brand toilet for this very same reason.
The closet bolts line up perfectly and the toilet sits in the space just
right, but the tank is still 1" too far back and cannot be seated on the
toilet because it is blocked by the wall. So much for the 10" rough in
solution.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-792041-.htm

[=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?=]

Anti-Hypocrite posted for all of us...



replying to nestork, Anti-Hypocrite wrote:
I just bought a 10" rough "Jacuzzi" brand toilet for this very same reason.
The closet bolts line up perfectly and the toilet sits in the space just
right, but the tank is still 1" too far back and cannot be seated on the
toilet because it is blocked by the wall. So much for the 10" rough in
solution.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-792041-.htm

Nestork hasn't been around for years. Get a real newsreader and find out
that this has been discussed many times.

--
Tekkie

[itsjoannotjoann]

On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 7:44:06 AM UTC-5, Anti-Hypocrite wrote:

replying to nestork, Anti-Hypocrite wrote:

I just bought a 10" rough "Jacuzzi" brand toilet for this very same reason.
The closet bolts line up perfectly and the toilet sits in the space just
right, but the tank is still 1" too far back and cannot be seated on the
toilet because it is blocked by the wall. So much for the 10" rough in
solution.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...on-792041-.htm


I love Tekkie's reply to you, spot on!! Four year old post, dummy.