We have been nursing our old bathroom toilet for a long time. It's one
of the ones with a larger tank that uses more water flushing and
that's the reason we've nursed it, because for some members of our
family, it might take three or four flushes from a 1.7 toilet to
dispose of the "business," if you catch my drift (which of course
defeats the water-saving purpose, but nobody asked me).

However, the ell that runs from the tank to the bowl is now leaking,
and I know those are difficult to find, plus it's leaking around one
of the bolts on the floor (probably bad seal), so it's probably time
to get rid of it.

I have purchased a new complete toilet set, have an appointment with a
plumber to install it (I would rather spend the money to have it
installed by someone who knows what he's doing).

However, the tank of this toilet is attached to the bathroom wall,
appears to be connected by two pieces of metal coming out of the wall,
probably from studs. There are no pipes running through the wall or
anything, it's just attached to the wall. There don't appear to be any
other holes in the wall except for the two studs that are holding the
toilet.

The toilet kit we have is a free-standing floor mount toilet that I
don't think is going to sit up against the wall. My wife and I are
afraid that this is going to wind up involving sheet rock and re-
tiling work in the bathroom, which we'd really rather not do right now
if it's at all possible.

Can any of you plumbers out there suggest any other options for this
situation? Or are we stuck with the extra work? Thanks in advance for
any advice.

"PRW" wrote in message
...
We have been nursing our old bathroom toilet for a long time. It's one
of the ones with a larger tank that uses more water flushing and
that's the reason we've nursed it, because for some members of our
family, it might take three or four flushes from a 1.7 toilet to
dispose of the "business," if you catch my drift (which of course
defeats the water-saving purpose, but nobody asked me).

However, the ell that runs from the tank to the bowl is now leaking,
and I know those are difficult to find, plus it's leaking around one
of the bolts on the floor (probably bad seal), so it's probably time
to get rid of it.

I have purchased a new complete toilet set, have an appointment with a
plumber to install it (I would rather spend the money to have it
installed by someone who knows what he's doing).

However, the tank of this toilet is attached to the bathroom wall,
appears to be connected by two pieces of metal coming out of the wall,
probably from studs. There are no pipes running through the wall or
anything, it's just attached to the wall. There don't appear to be any
other holes in the wall except for the two studs that are holding the
toilet.

The toilet kit we have is a free-standing floor mount toilet that I
don't think is going to sit up against the wall. My wife and I are
afraid that this is going to wind up involving sheet rock and re-
tiling work in the bathroom, which we'd really rather not do right now
if it's at all possible.

Can any of you plumbers out there suggest any other options for this
situation? Or are we stuck with the extra work? Thanks in advance for
any advice.



Assuming the supply line for the water enters the tank at the bottom, you
have no problems.

Many of the old wall mount guys had a 14" rough in to the center of the
floor flange. Most new johns are a 12" rough in. So the max space behind
the john will be 2 inches, not enough to worry about in my mind.

If that bothers you, may I suggest that your precut a small section of 2 x 4
to a length about 2" less that the width of you new tank and mount that to
the wall behind the new tank so that the top edge is about an inch above the
new tank when it is installed and the top is on.

You can then add a small finished shelf to that 2 x 4 after the plumber
leaves. The kids or the wife can store all kinds of stuff there to fall
into the new john and plug it up. (grin)

Colbyt

I did not make myself clear in either posting here or at another board
I posted at on this, and I apologize for that.

Basically, my ideal scenario would be to NOT have a free-standing
toilet and NOT have to do the wall repair that will be almost
inevitable from removing this old toilet. And the space between the
toilet and wall is immaterial.

What I really would like to know is if anybody, anywhere still makes a
toilet tank that would attach to the wall like this one.



On Nov 24, 1:07 pm, Claude Hopper
wrote:

If it's free standing it don't need to be against the wall.So what if
there is a space there?

--
Claude Hopper

? ? ¥

On Nov 24, 1:30*pm, PRW wrote:
We have been nursing our old bathroom toilet for a long time. It's one
of the ones with a larger tank that uses more water flushing and
that's the reason we've nursed it, because for some members of our
family, it might take three or four flushes from a 1.7 toilet to
dispose of the "business," if you catch my drift (which of course
defeats the water-saving purpose, but nobody asked me).

However, the ell that runs from the tank to the bowl is now leaking,
and I know those are difficult to find, plus it's leaking around one
of the bolts on the floor (probably bad seal), so it's probably time
to get rid of it.

I have purchased a new complete toilet set, have an appointment with a
plumber to install it (I would rather spend the money to have it
installed by someone who knows what he's doing).

However, the tank of this toilet is attached to the bathroom wall,
appears to be connected by two pieces of metal coming out of the wall,
probably from studs. There are no pipes running through the wall or
anything, it's just attached to the wall. There don't appear to be any
other holes in the wall except for the two studs that are holding the
toilet.

The toilet kit we have is a free-standing floor mount toilet that I
don't think is going to sit up against the wall. My wife and I are
afraid that this is going to wind up involving sheet rock and re-
tiling work in the bathroom, which we'd really rather not do right now
if it's at all possible.

Can any of you plumbers out there suggest any other options for this
situation? Or are we stuck with the extra work? Thanks in advance for
any advice.

They make toilets for different dimensions from wall, the floor drain,
just order the right one. Even the cheap 59$ HD toilets are only one
flush needed, if your worried consumer reports rates them on crap
efficency.

"PRW" wrote in message
...
I did not make myself clear in either posting here or at another board
I posted at on this, and I apologize for that.

Basically, my ideal scenario would be to NOT have a free-standing
toilet and NOT have to do the wall repair that will be almost
inevitable from removing this old toilet. And the space between the
toilet and wall is immaterial.

What I really would like to know is if anybody, anywhere still makes a
toilet tank that would attach to the wall like this one.

Not that I know of, but the replacement pipes to connect the tank to the
bowl are sold at real plumbing stores.

You won't find them at HomeCeapo or Slows.

The plumber is the one who told me the replacement parts weren't
readily available. Would just changing the toilet be an, (a.) easier
or (b.) more financially rewarding for him, job than repairing this
one, and would that be coloring what he's telling me? (I don't have a
clue, I'm not a plumber.) I'm a couple of miles from a very well
stocked plumbers supply store that I've bought numerous items from in
the past, so I may pay them a visit.


On Nov 24, 3:57 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"PRW" wrote in message

...
I did not make myself clear in either posting here or at another board
I posted at on this, and I apologize for that.
Not that I know of, but the replacement pipes to connect the tank to the
bowl are sold at real plumbing stores.

You won't find them at HomeCeapo or Slows.

On Mon, 24 Nov 2008 11:30:47 -0800 (PST), PRW
wrote:

We have been nursing our old bathroom toilet for a long time. It's one
of the ones with a larger tank that uses more water flushing and
that's the reason we've nursed it, because for some members of our
family, it might take three or four flushes from a 1.7 toilet to
dispose of the "business," if you catch my drift (which of course
defeats the water-saving purpose, but nobody asked me).

However, the ell that runs from the tank to the bowl is now leaking,
and I know those are difficult to find, plus it's leaking around one
of the bolts on the floor (probably bad seal), so it's probably time
to get rid of it.

I have purchased a new complete toilet set, have an appointment with a
plumber to install it (I would rather spend the money to have it
installed by someone who knows what he's doing).

However, the tank of this toilet is attached to the bathroom wall,
appears to be connected by two pieces of metal coming out of the wall,
probably from studs. There are no pipes running through the wall or
anything, it's just attached to the wall. There don't appear to be any
other holes in the wall except for the two studs that are holding the
toilet.

The toilet kit we have is a free-standing floor mount toilet that I
don't think is going to sit up against the wall. My wife and I are
afraid that this is going to wind up involving sheet rock and re-
tiling work in the bathroom, which we'd really rather not do right now
if it's at all possible.

Can any of you plumbers out there suggest any other options for this
situation? Or are we stuck with the extra work? Thanks in advance for
any advice.

Try Renovators Supply online. http://www.rensup.com/ They have lots
of old style plumbing stuff including toilets and parts. I know they
have the wall mount tanks that mount high up; not sure about the type
you have, but worth a look.

HTH,

Paul F.

PRW wrote in
:

On Nov 24, 3:57 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"PRW" wrote in message


om... I did not make myself clear in either posting here or at
another board I posted at on this, and I apologize for that.
Not that I know of, but the replacement pipes to connect the tank
to the bowl are sold at real plumbing stores.

You won't find them at HomeCeapo or Slows.

The plumber is the one who told me the replacement parts weren't
readily available. Would just changing the toilet be an, (a.) easier
or (b.) more financially rewarding for him, job than repairing this
one, and would that be coloring what he's telling me? (I don't have a
clue, I'm not a plumber.) I'm a couple of miles from a very well
stocked plumbers supply store that I've bought numerous items from in
the past, so I may pay them a visit.

I'm a handyman, not a plumber, but I've done that job plenty of times.

It's difficult to find parts for old equipment. If you do find it, it
might be used and not last very long. You'll have to pay the plumber
for his time shopping for parts. That might be very costly. You could
cut the price by doing the shopping yourself, but you might
accidentally wind up with the wrong part, and the plumber will have to
go shopping anyway.

It will definitely be easier to replace the toilet. This is a known job
that every plumber has done lots of times. It will probably be cheaper,
too.

You'll have a complete picture after you remove the old toilet. Lots of
things could be wrong that you can't see right now. Most likely the wax
seal has just failed, causing your leak at the bottom, but it could be
other things, too.

The plumber can put in an offset for the drain if it's the wrong
distance from the wall. That will close up the gap.

You can probably just screw the bolts out of the wall with some locking
pliers. If not, you can grind them flush with the tile surface.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

On Nov 24, 11:30*am, PRW wrote:
We have been nursing our old bathroom toilet for a long time. It's one
of the ones with a larger tank that uses more water flushing and
that's the reason we've nursed it, because for some members of our
family, it might take three or four flushes from a 1.7 toilet to
dispose of the "business," if you catch my drift (which of course
defeats the water-saving purpose, but nobody asked me).

However, the ell that runs from the tank to the bowl is now leaking,
and I know those are difficult to find, plus it's leaking around one
of the bolts on the floor (probably bad seal), so it's probably time
to get rid of it.

I have purchased a new complete toilet set, have an appointment with a
plumber to install it (I would rather spend the money to have it
installed by someone who knows what he's doing).

However, the tank of this toilet is attached to the bathroom wall,
appears to be connected by two pieces of metal coming out of the wall,
probably from studs. There are no pipes running through the wall or
anything, it's just attached to the wall. There don't appear to be any
other holes in the wall except for the two studs that are holding the
toilet.

The toilet kit we have is a free-standing floor mount toilet that I
don't think is going to sit up against the wall. My wife and I are
afraid that this is going to wind up involving sheet rock and re-
tiling work in the bathroom, which we'd really rather not do right now
if it's at all possible.

Can any of you plumbers out there suggest any other options for this
situation? Or are we stuck with the extra work? Thanks in advance for
any advice.

Replacing that elbow is really quite simple......any experienced
plumber can do it for you.

I bought a wall mount toilet on ebay to replace the cracked tank on my
unit...for my 1930's house.

I like the 3.5 gallon toilets.....appropriate usage will minimize
water consumption.

cheers
Bob

On Nov 24, 2:10*pm, PRW wrote:
The plumber is the one who told me the replacement parts weren't
readily available. Would just changing the toilet be an, (a.) easier
or (b.) more financially rewarding for him, job than repairing this
one, and would that be coloring what he's telling me? (I don't have a
clue, I'm not a plumber.) I'm a couple of miles from a very well
stocked plumbers supply store that I've bought numerous items from in
the past, so I may pay them a visit.

On Nov 24, 3:57 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:

"PRW" wrote in message

....
I did not make myself clear in either posting here or at another board
I posted at on this, and I apologize for that.
Not that I know of, but the replacement pipes to connect the tank to the
bowl are sold at real plumbing stores.

You won't find them at HomeCeapo or Slows.

.......The plumber is the one who told me the replacement parts weren't
readily available. ....

total BS

BobK207 wrote in
:

On Nov 24, 2:10*pm, PRW wrote:
The plumber is the one who told me the replacement parts weren't
readily available. Would just changing the toilet be an, (a.) easier
or (b.) more financially rewarding for him, job than repairing this
one, and would that be coloring what he's telling me? (I don't have
a clue, I'm not a plumber.) I'm a couple of miles from a very well
stocked plumbers supply store that I've bought numerous items from
in the past, so I may pay them a visit.

On Nov 24, 3:57 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:

"PRW" wrote in message


.com... I did not make myself clear in either posting here or at
another board I posted at on this, and I apologize for that.
Not that I know of, but the replacement pipes to connect the tank
to the bowl are sold at real plumbing stores.

You won't find them at HomeCeapo or Slows.

......The plumber is the one who told me the replacement parts weren't
readily available. ....

total BS

But "readily available" means he can walk into his usual supply shop,
get a cup of coffee, and say, "Hey, Bob, give me one of ___." And Bob
just hands it over the counter. If he has to look in catalogs or wait
for a special order, or go to any effort whatsoever, it, by definition,
isn't "readily available".

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

Following up:

1. Plumber is concerned about getting parts for this specific toilet,
especially the spud because he says it's kind of a ******* looking one
that may have been jerry-rigged anyway, and says he will be most
surprised, given the shape of the mounting bolts on the floor (very
rusty and crudded over) and the fact that there are a couple of
cracks, non-leaking ones but cracks just the same, in the bowl, if
when he pulls the thing up to replace the wax seal it does not break
and become unusable anyway. That's why he advises total replacement.

2. She who must be obeyed ... i.e., the Mrs. ... says we're going to
replace the thing and she's already got some plans for the space
(mounting a shelf maybe where the brackets to hold the tank to the
wall are), so I guess we're going to replace the thing.

Thanks for the input, everyone.

"PRW" wrote in message
...
Following up:

2. She who must be obeyed ... i.e., the Mrs. ... says we're going to
replace the thing and she's already got some plans for the space

Thanks for the input, everyone.


Now there's a man who knows how to keep the peace in a family.

Another followup ... toilet is in, after a heroic effort and much
weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth and hours of parts hunting by
my plumber, and a little extra cost for myself. And I'm glad I got the
plumber instead of trying to do this myself, because while I've been
involved in doing this a time or two, I could never have done this one
myself in a million years.

When the plumber removed the old toilet, he noticed that there was no
cabinet flange in the floor. He went to the plumbing supply store to
get one, brought it back ... and it wouldn't work. He went back to the
plumbing supply store, got a different one that was designed to fit
down into the pipe instead of over, as the first one was ... and it
wouldn't work. Turns out that the pipe is a ******* size, like 3.5 or
a fraction over, not the standard 3 or 4. The reason there was no
cabinet flange is that the flange was built into the old toilet bowl,
there was not a separate one. We all had visions of my house being
toilet-less for a while, because of maybe having to either special
order a flange or have one custom made, but the plumber went back to
the plumbing supply store, they looked around and happened upon, I
mean it was by accident, it was not in the place where the flanges are
supposed to be, a smaller sized cabinet flange, albeit not quite as
small as it needed to be to fit the pipe easily. However, my plumber
used a bit of grease on the flange, his hammer and some prayer, and
the thing fit down flush and worked.

I did get the toilet at Lowe's, and they offer installation for $79,
and it cost me considerably more than that for the plumber, especially
with the fact that the flange was kind of pricey for some reason, but
I can't imagine how somebody from Lowe's would have handled this
curveball, because I know I sure couldn't have. Lesson learned ... you
get what you pay for, and I don't mind paying for good work that I
can't do myself, and extra diligence and effort.

"PRW" wrote

rusty and crudded over) and the fact that there are a couple of
cracks, non-leaking ones but cracks just the same, in the bowl, if
when he pulls the thing up to replace the wax seal it does not break
and become unusable anyway. That's why he advises total replacement.

Yes, he's right there. Very likely he just wont be able to get it out
without breaking it. He's an honest fellow to tell you that upfront.

Grin, Don and i had to break one once to get it out. Bolts just corroded
beyond fixable.

PRW wrote in
:

I did get the toilet at Lowe's, and they offer installation for $79,
and it cost me considerably more than that for the plumber, especially
with the fact that the flange was kind of pricey for some reason, but
I can't imagine how somebody from Lowe's would have handled this
curveball, because I know I sure couldn't have. Lesson learned ... you
get what you pay for, and I don't mind paying for good work that I
can't do myself, and extra diligence and effort.

I bet the Lowes contract says the price is $79 unless they run into
something unusual, "unusual" being defined as anything other than just
bolting the new equipment down and going back to the shop.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

On Nov 25, 7:11*pm, PRW wrote:
Another followup ... toilet is in, after a heroic effort and much
weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth and hours of parts hunting by
my plumber, and a little extra cost for myself. And I'm glad I got the
plumber instead of trying to do this myself, because while I've been
involved in doing this a time or two, I could never have done this one
myself in a million years.

When the plumber removed the old toilet, he noticed that there was no
cabinet flange in the floor. He went to the plumbing supply store to
get one, brought it back ... and it wouldn't work. He went back to the
plumbing supply store, got a different one that was designed to fit
down into the pipe instead of over, as the first one was ... and it
wouldn't work. Turns out that the pipe is a ******* size, like 3.5 or
a fraction over, not the standard 3 or 4. The reason there was no
cabinet flange is that the flange was built into the old toilet bowl,
there was not a separate one. We all had visions of my house being
toilet-less for a while, because of maybe having to either special
order a flange or have one custom made, but the plumber went back to
the plumbing supply store, they looked around and happened upon, I
mean it was by accident, it was not in the place where the flanges are
supposed to be, a smaller sized cabinet flange, albeit not quite as
small as it needed to be to fit the pipe easily. However, my plumber
used a bit of grease on the flange, his hammer and some prayer, and
the thing fit down flush and worked.

I did get the toilet at Lowe's, and they offer installation for $79,
and it cost me considerably more than that for the plumber, especially
with the fact that the flange was kind of pricey for some reason, but
I can't imagine how somebody from Lowe's would have handled this
curveball, because I know I sure couldn't have. Lesson learned ... you
get what you pay for, and I don't mind paying for good work that I
can't do myself, and extra diligence and effort.

I'm glad you got the job done, and apparently done right.

When I remodeled my basement bathroom, I had a wall-mounted tank that
was attached to the bare block walls. I wanted to keep the full-flush
toilet, but since drywalling the block walls was going to be part of
the project, I hadn't quite figured out how I was going deal with the
tank since I couldn't add furring strips, insulation and drywall
behind it.

As I was demo-ing the existing non-block walls, I was mulling over
ideas on how to trim out the tank and still be able to remove the top
for maintenance. The sill plates for the old walls were nailed to the
slab with concrete nails, so I was using a sledge hammer to loosen
them up.

Concentrating on my target, I swung the sledge numerous times, hearing
thunk, thunk, CLINK-SPLASH, thunk. The CLINK-SPLASH was the sledge
hitting the bowl on the backswing, chipping off a large piece from the
rim and knocking it into the toilet.

The free standing toilet I was about to purchase sure made drywalling
that block wall a lot easier. g