I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but
those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking
for in evaluating the saw?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 30 Jun 2014 03:22:57 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but
those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking
for in evaluating the saw?

Puckdropper
My neighbour has a real nice older DeWalt RAS that has a nasty,
dangerous problem. If the blade stalls it kicks back and starts in
reverse- - - -

wrote:
On 30 Jun 2014 03:22:57 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but
those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking
for in evaluating the saw?

It's capacity, compared to what you want to cut with it (that may sound
stupid, but I'm not kidding).
Look at the cord too, to see it that's an extra project (not kidding
about that either).
Check that it's not missing any of it's parts too. I'm not sure how to
tell you to check the bearings (Mike Marlow probably knows).
Try it out. If it does what you want, then it will probably continue to
do what you want for at least a while!
I wish I had bought a RAS sooner.

Good luck!
Bill



Puckdropper
My neighbour has a real nice older DeWalt RAS that has a nasty,
dangerous problem. If the blade stalls it kicks back and starts in
reverse- - - -

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
b.com
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but
those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking
for in evaluating the saw?

Some thoughts...

1. Does the motor turn on? Any wiggle in the arbor? Runout?

2. Is the column firm (no wiggle)?

3. If you rotate the column to an angle cut, does it lock there firmly?
Does it return accurately to zero (lay down a square against the fencewith a
marked tooth touching it...when you return column to zero, tooth and square
should be as thet were, Try rotating in the other direction too.)

4. Does the saw cradle rotate easily for a bevel cut? Lock firmly? Return
to zero accurately? Ditto all rotating for a rip.

5. Does the saw carriage move to and fro easlly? Can you wiggle saw side to
side (not good).

6. Fence clamps functional?

7. Table in decent shape? Cord too? Blade cover? Pawls and splitter
intact?

Basically, you want to be able to use the various means of setting the saw
differently relative to your work, have it stay as set and be able to return
things to where they were.

If you buy it and spring for a new blade,get one intended for RAS; i.e.,
with low hook...too much hook and the blade will want to climb up on what
you are cutting as you pull the saw. Even with a RAS blade, keep a somewhat
stiff arm as you pull.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but
those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking
for in evaluating the saw?

Puckdropper

Something to thing about. Is it going to be your primary tool for cutting?

If not, do you have the room to dedicate to it?

I started with a RAS and built quite a bit of furniture with it. We still
use a dresser that I built. 3 years later I added a Craftsman 1 hp TS and
"never" used the RAS again. 3-4 years later I got rid of the RAS and have
never missed it. 17 years later I upgraded the TS to a cabinet saw. When I
did that my CMS saw the same as the old RAS. I still have the CMS but have
not used it in the shop since 1999.

On Monday, June 30, 2014 6:05:01 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
Some thoughts...
1. Does the motor turn on? Any wiggle in the arbor? Runout?
2. Is the column firm (no wiggle)?
3. If you rotate the column to an angle cut, does it lock there firmly? Does it return accurately to zero (lay down a square against the fencewith a marked tooth touching it...when you return column to zero, tooth and square should be as thet were, Try rotating in the other direction too.)
4. Does the saw cradle rotate easily for a bevel cut? Lock firmly? Return to zero accurately? Ditto all rotating for a rip.
5. Does the saw carriage move to and fro easlly? Can you wiggle saw side to side (not good).
6. Fence clamps functional?
7. Table in decent shape? Cord too? Blade cover? Pawls and splitter intact? Basically, you want to be able to use the various means of setting the saw differently relative to your work, have it stay as set and be able to return things to where they were.


*8. Can it clearly catch your favorite FM station? And will it properly return to that station, if the tuner is moved?

Sonny

On 2014-06-30, wrote:
On 30 Jun 2014 03:22:57 GMT, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old,
but those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be
looking for in evaluating the saw?

My neighbour has a real nice older DeWalt RAS that has a nasty,
dangerous problem. If the blade stalls it kicks back and starts in
reverse- - - -

Is it powered by a 2-stroke model airplane engine (most of them ran
equally as well forwards or backwards).

--
Grant Edwards grant.b.edwards Yow! UH-OH!! We're out
at of AUTOMOBILE PARTS and
gmail.com RUBBER GOODS!

On Sunday, June 29, 2014 10:22:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but

those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking

for in evaluating the saw?



Puckdropper

--

Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Related question. I bought an old Dewalt RAS for 40 bucks from a guy because he appeared to need the money. It does not have a blade or table, and I'm not sure how much work needs to be put into it. My question: If I give it away, am I liable in any way in case it is dangerous? Am I better off setting it by the curb for the trash guys, and even there, should I render it unusable?

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:10:24 +0000 (UTC), Grant Edwards
wrote:

On 2014-06-30, wrote:
On 30 Jun 2014 03:22:57 GMT, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old,
but those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be
looking for in evaluating the saw?

My neighbour has a real nice older DeWalt RAS that has a nasty,
dangerous problem. If the blade stalls it kicks back and starts in
reverse- - - -

Is it powered by a 2-stroke model airplane engine (most of them ran
equally as well forwards or backwards).
So do induction motors. They run whichever way they are started -
so reversing the start winding reverses the motor.

On 06/30/2014 08:32 AM, Michael wrote:
On Sunday, June 29, 2014 10:22:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but

those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking

for in evaluating the saw?



Puckdropper

--

Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Related question. I bought an old Dewalt RAS for 40 bucks from a guy because he appeared to need the money. It does not have a blade or table, and I'm not sure how much work needs to be put into it. My question: If I give it away, am I liable in any way in case it is dangerous? Am I better off setting it by the curb for the trash guys, and even there, should I render it unusable?

A blade is easily obtainable.

The table is no big deal either. If it had one, it should probably be
replaced anyway. Not difficult to fabricate and install unless there is
some missing table mounting hardware.

If there are no other issues, I would keep it and tune it up and use it.

On Monday, June 30, 2014 11:29:32 AM UTC-5, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 06/30/2014 08:32 AM, Michael wrote:

On Sunday, June 29, 2014 10:22:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:

I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but



those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking



for in evaluating the saw?







Puckdropper



--



Make it to fit, don't make it fit.



Related question. I bought an old Dewalt RAS for 40 bucks from a guy because he appeared to need the money. It does not have a blade or table, and I'm not sure how much work needs to be put into it. My question: If I give it away, am I liable in any way in case it is dangerous? Am I better off setting it by the curb for the trash guys, and even there, should I render it unusable?



A blade is easily obtainable.



The table is no big deal either. If it had one, it should probably be

replaced anyway. Not difficult to fabricate and install unless there is

some missing table mounting hardware.



If there are no other issues, I would keep it and tune it up and use it.

I could, but I don't need it and I don't have the room. I already have a Dewalt compound miter saw mounted to accommodate long pieces for those kinds of cuts, and I use the table saw and a circular saw and guide for wider boards.

Michael wrote:


I could, but I don't need it and I don't have the room. I already
have a Dewalt compound miter saw mounted to accommodate long pieces
for those kinds of cuts, and I use the table saw and a circular saw
and guide for wider boards.

IMHO you should just stay with what you have and avoid the additional
clutter of a tool you probably won't use any more than to just say you used
it. As for your original question - well advice is worth pretty much what
you pay for it, and as far as I know, there aren't even any lawyers in this
group, so any advice you're likely to get is likely to be worth what you
paid for it. I doubt you'd be liable but I'm no lawyer so what do I really
know? People sell stuff every day - cars, tools, etc. that the buyer goes
out and gets hurt with. Can't say as I've ever heard the private sell held
liable, but...

--

-Mike-

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
b.com...
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but
those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking
for in evaluating the saw?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I have a 230V RAS, and I almost never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever ever ever ever ever use it. Ok, it makes a fair to crappy extra table
to store stuff on. If I took the saw and arm off of it then it would make a
better table. So I guess I always use it. As a flat surface to store stuff
on.

I use my contractor table saw almost everyday when I am in the shop, and
usually a couple times a week even if I am working mostly in the field. A
larger blade larger table cabinet saw would be handy when working a lot with
it, but the contractor saw stores out of the way easier when not using it,
and allows for quickly moving it out of the way even if its not used for
just a little while.

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 09:29:32 -0700, Doug Winterburn
wrote:

On 06/30/2014 08:32 AM, Michael wrote:
On Sunday, June 29, 2014 10:22:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but

those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking

for in evaluating the saw?



Puckdropper

--

Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Related question. I bought an old Dewalt RAS for 40 bucks from a guy because he appeared to need the money. It does not have a blade or table, and I'm not sure how much work needs to be put into it. My question: If I give it away, am I liable in any way in case it is dangerous? Am I better off setting it by the curb for the trash guys, and even there, should I render it unusable?

A blade is easily obtainable.

The table is no big deal either. If it had one, it should probably be
replaced anyway. Not difficult to fabricate and install unless there is
some missing table mounting hardware.

If there are no other issues, I would keep it and tune it up and use it.
If you give it away, particularly with no blade, you are giving away
parts. Whatever the recipient makes out of those parts is totally HIS
responsibility - not yours. As given, it is not dangerous unless he
drops it on his foot- - - .

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 13:14:57 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Michael wrote:


I could, but I don't need it and I don't have the room. I already
have a Dewalt compound miter saw mounted to accommodate long pieces
for those kinds of cuts, and I use the table saw and a circular saw
and guide for wider boards.

IMHO you should just stay with what you have and avoid the additional
clutter of a tool you probably won't use any more than to just say you used
it. As for your original question - well advice is worth pretty much what
you pay for it, and as far as I know, there aren't even any lawyers in this
group, so any advice you're likely to get is likely to be worth what you
paid for it. I doubt you'd be liable but I'm no lawyer so what do I really
know? People sell stuff every day - cars, tools, etc. that the buyer goes
out and gets hurt with. Can't say as I've ever heard the private sell held
liable, but...
One thing that DOES happen is someone sells a homebuilt airplane,
the new pilot crashes it, and they come back on the builder - even if
he was 2 or 3 owners back. They seldom win, but the often try!!!

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 10:40:20 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
eb.com...
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but
those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking
for in evaluating the saw?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I have a 230V RAS, and I almost never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever ever ever ever ever use it. Ok, it makes a fair to crappy extra table
to store stuff on. If I took the saw and arm off of it then it would make a
better table. So I guess I always use it. As a flat surface to store stuff
on.

I use my contractor table saw almost everyday when I am in the shop, and
usually a couple times a week even if I am working mostly in the field. A
larger blade larger table cabinet saw would be handy when working a lot with
it, but the contractor saw stores out of the way easier when not using it,
and allows for quickly moving it out of the way even if its not used for
just a little while.



But it is, by definition, almost ALWAYS out of tune, so it is pretty
much useless as a cabinet-maker's table saw.. Mabee not useless, but
definitely not optimal.

On Monday, June 30, 2014 12:59:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 10:40:20 -0700, "Bob La Londe"

wrote:



"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message

eb.com...

I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but

those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking

for in evaluating the saw?



Puckdropper

--

Make it to fit, don't make it fit.



I have a 230V RAS, and I almost never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever

ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever

ever ever ever ever ever use it. Ok, it makes a fair to crappy extra table

to store stuff on. If I took the saw and arm off of it then it would make a

better table. So I guess I always use it. As a flat surface to store stuff

on.



I use my contractor table saw almost everyday when I am in the shop, and

usually a couple times a week even if I am working mostly in the field. A

larger blade larger table cabinet saw would be handy when working a lot with

it, but the contractor saw stores out of the way easier when not using it,

and allows for quickly moving it out of the way even if its not used for

just a little while.







But it is, by definition, almost ALWAYS out of tune, so it is pretty

much useless as a cabinet-maker's table saw.. Mabee not useless, but

definitely not optimal.

Of course, I check my cuts with a square. The saw has jogged out of tune a couple of times and I've adjusted it. It's been a while since I've had to do that. I'm not kidding when I say that the 45 degree cuts are picture-frame ready. It amazes me. I need to buy a fine blade for it, though. The cuts with the framing blade are a little rough. Maybe I could sell the old RAS and pay for it that way.

SFWIW, Cerritos college has a single 12" RAS compared
to 10-12 SawStop table saws in their
Wood Manufacturing Technology lab.

It's use is limited strictly to cross cutting rough stock to rough
length as the first step in preparing rough stock.

Lew

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 11:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Monday, June 30, 2014 12:59:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 10:40:20 -0700, "Bob La Londe"

wrote:



"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message

eb.com...

I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but

those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking

for in evaluating the saw?



Puckdropper

--

Make it to fit, don't make it fit.



I have a 230V RAS, and I almost never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever

ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever

ever ever ever ever ever use it. Ok, it makes a fair to crappy extra table

to store stuff on. If I took the saw and arm off of it then it would make a

better table. So I guess I always use it. As a flat surface to store stuff

on.



I use my contractor table saw almost everyday when I am in the shop, and

usually a couple times a week even if I am working mostly in the field. A

larger blade larger table cabinet saw would be handy when working a lot with

it, but the contractor saw stores out of the way easier when not using it,

and allows for quickly moving it out of the way even if its not used for

just a little while.







But it is, by definition, almost ALWAYS out of tune, so it is pretty

much useless as a cabinet-maker's table saw.. Mabee not useless, but

definitely not optimal.

Of course, I check my cuts with a square. The saw has jogged out of tune a couple of times and I've adjusted it. It's been a while since I've had to do that. I'm not kidding when I say that the 45 degree cuts are picture-frame ready. It amazes me. I need to buy a fine blade for it, though. The cuts with the framing blade are a little rough. Maybe I could sell the old RAS and pay for it that way.
All I can say is you bought a "good" contractor saw and you don't
throw it around like most contractors do if it has held it's tune that
well. The cheapassed sheetmetal based "contractor saws" I generally
see can't be trusted for anything finer than framing. (and I mean
HOUSE framing - not PICTURE framing!!

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 10:40:20 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
web.com...
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but
those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be
looking
for in evaluating the saw?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I have a 230V RAS, and I almost never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever ever ever ever ever use it. Ok, it makes a fair to crappy extra
table
to store stuff on. If I took the saw and arm off of it then it would make
a
better table. So I guess I always use it. As a flat surface to store
stuff
on.

I use my contractor table saw almost everyday when I am in the shop, and
usually a couple times a week even if I am working mostly in the field. A
larger blade larger table cabinet saw would be handy when working a lot
with
it, but the contractor saw stores out of the way easier when not using it,
and allows for quickly moving it out of the way even if its not used for
just a little while.



But it is, by definition, almost ALWAYS out of tune, so it is pretty
much useless as a cabinet-maker's table saw.. Mabee not useless, but
definitely not optimal.

Actually I check every cut with a tape and a square/angle when its
important. Even when its not and I don't its better than the stupid RAS.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 11:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Monday, June 30, 2014 12:59:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 10:40:20 -0700, "Bob La Londe"

wrote:



"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message

eb.com...

I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old,
but

those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be
looking

for in evaluating the saw?



Puckdropper

--

Make it to fit, don't make it fit.



I have a 230V RAS, and I almost never ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever

ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever

ever ever ever ever ever use it. Ok, it makes a fair to crappy extra
table

to store stuff on. If I took the saw and arm off of it then it would
make a

better table. So I guess I always use it. As a flat surface to store
stuff

on.



I use my contractor table saw almost everyday when I am in the shop,
and

usually a couple times a week even if I am working mostly in the field.
A

larger blade larger table cabinet saw would be handy when working a lot
with

it, but the contractor saw stores out of the way easier when not using
it,

and allows for quickly moving it out of the way even if its not used
for

just a little while.







But it is, by definition, almost ALWAYS out of tune, so it is pretty

much useless as a cabinet-maker's table saw.. Mabee not useless, but

definitely not optimal.

Of course, I check my cuts with a square. The saw has jogged out of tune a
couple of times and I've adjusted it. It's been a while since I've had to
do that. I'm not kidding when I say that the 45 degree cuts are
picture-frame ready. It amazes me. I need to buy a fine blade for it,
though. The cuts with the framing blade are a little rough. Maybe I could
sell the old RAS and pay for it that way.
All I can say is you bought a "good" contractor saw and you don't
throw it around like most contractors do if it has held it's tune that
well. The cheapassed sheetmetal based "contractor saws" I generally
see can't be trusted for anything finer than framing. (and I mean
HOUSE framing - not PICTURE framing!!

Heck, the way most houses are framed they don't anything better than a rock
hatchet squared off on the back side. I've been a licensed contractor
(communication) for over 20 yeas, and in the industry longer. I've seen
maybe half a dozen houses TOTAL that were framed or even layed out square.

Sonny wrote in
:



*8. Can it clearly catch your favorite FM station? And will it
properly return to that station, if the tuner is moved?

Sonny

I should e-mail the seller and ask him to set the clock, so I can see if
the time's accurate. If I'm going to use the Radio Alarm feature, an
accurate clock is a must.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 6/29/2014 10:22 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old, but
those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be looking
for in evaluating the saw?

Which model, specifically? There are some DW that are quite old but
were just homeowner models I'd not pay much attention to; otoh, some of
them were "the real mcCoy"...

Secondly, for what purpose do you envision using it? I suspect the
utility you'll get will be in large part on what else you already have
and what you plan on doing going forward.

I've an old 16" one which I use for length-cutting and heavier work that
isn't nearly as simple to move the work thrue the TS and that it doesn't
have the capacity for. I've the room to have it set up in a long bench
with 8' either end for permanent support and the full barn length
alleyway in one direction if needs be. As long as I've the room I'll
never let it go, but it isn't the primary in terms of amount of use by
any stretch--but when it's needed, there's nothing else that can touch
it. It's heavy enough that it is, and stays, in adjustment.

As Leon, my first was one of the small 10" DeWalt's and I used it
exclusively for quite some time before buying the TS (I waited 'til
could afford the PM Model 66). It was adequate, but underpowered and
lightweight so took a fair amount of fiddling to keep it aligned. But,
there are things that are fair simpler w/ a RAS as compared to the TS
just as vice versa...

--

Leon wrote in
:

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old,
but those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I
be looking for in evaluating the saw?

Puckdropper

Something to thing about. Is it going to be your primary tool for
cutting?

If not, do you have the room to dedicate to it?

I started with a RAS and built quite a bit of furniture with it. We
still use a dresser that I built. 3 years later I added a Craftsman 1
hp TS and "never" used the RAS again. 3-4 years later I got rid of
the RAS and have never missed it. 17 years later I upgraded the TS to
a cabinet saw. When I did that my CMS saw the same as the old RAS. I
still have the CMS but have not used it in the shop since 1999.

It won't be my primary tool for cutting, but I do have the room to
dedicate to it (I think.) I've seen some shop designs where they put the
SCMS and RAS next to each other, so both tools share the same work space.
It would be nice to set the RAS for a dado cut and SCMS for cut-off duty,
especially on this next project.

Cross-cutting dadoes is really my biggest thing. I figure for what I put
into a RAS, if it makes the next project easier then doesn't get used
much afterwards it'll probably be worth it.

Puckdropper

--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Michael wrote in
:


Related question. I bought an old Dewalt RAS for 40 bucks from a guy
because he appeared to need the money. It does not have a blade or
table, and I'm not sure how much work needs to be put into it. My
question: If I give it away, am I liable in any way in case it is
dangerous? Am I better off setting it by the curb for the trash guys,
and even there, should I render it unusable?

I know a guy named Mike Wilson... He plays hockey. Any chance you'd happen
to be the same guy? (If 4-4, 3-3, 9-0, 4-1, mean something to you, shoot
me an e-mail.)

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 6/30/2014 4:28 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon wrote in
:

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old,
but those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I
be looking for in evaluating the saw?

Puckdropper

Something to thing about. Is it going to be your primary tool for
cutting?

If not, do you have the room to dedicate to it?

I started with a RAS and built quite a bit of furniture with it. We
still use a dresser that I built. 3 years later I added a Craftsman 1
hp TS and "never" used the RAS again. 3-4 years later I got rid of
the RAS and have never missed it. 17 years later I upgraded the TS to
a cabinet saw. When I did that my CMS saw the same as the old RAS. I
still have the CMS but have not used it in the shop since 1999.

It won't be my primary tool for cutting, but I do have the room to
dedicate to it (I think.) I've seen some shop designs where they put the
SCMS and RAS next to each other, so both tools share the same work space.
It would be nice to set the RAS for a dado cut and SCMS for cut-off duty,
especially on this next project.

Cross-cutting dadoes is really my biggest thing. I figure for what I put
into a RAS, if it makes the next project easier then doesn't get used
much afterwards it'll probably be worth it.

Well that sounds like a good plan! I cut lot's of dado's so a dedicated
machine would be nice. Keep in mind however that it is seldom that
plywood comes in uniform thicknesses any more so you will still have to
tweak your set up.

dpb wrote in :

On 6/29/2014 10:22 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old,
but those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I
be looking for in evaluating the saw?

Which model, specifically? There are some DW that are quite old but
were just homeowner models I'd not pay much attention to; otoh, some
of them were "the real mcCoy"...

Secondly, for what purpose do you envision using it? I suspect the
utility you'll get will be in large part on what else you already have
and what you plan on doing going forward.

I've an old 16" one which I use for length-cutting and heavier work
that isn't nearly as simple to move the work thrue the TS and that it
doesn't have the capacity for. I've the room to have it set up in a
long bench with 8' either end for permanent support and the full barn
length alleyway in one direction if needs be. As long as I've the
room I'll never let it go, but it isn't the primary in terms of amount
of use by any stretch--but when it's needed, there's nothing else that
can touch it. It's heavy enough that it is, and stays, in adjustment.

As Leon, my first was one of the small 10" DeWalt's and I used it
exclusively for quite some time before buying the TS (I waited 'til
could afford the PM Model 66). It was adequate, but underpowered and
lightweight so took a fair amount of fiddling to keep it aligned.
But, there are things that are fair simpler w/ a RAS as compared to
the TS just as vice versa...


I don't know what model it is. The seller didn't get a clear shot of the
model/info label, and hasn't sent me that information. It's a 9" model,
looks to be pre-AMF:
http://peoria.craigslist.org/tls/4512837082.html

I think it's either a GS or MBF, but that's only from looking at pictures
on vintagemachinery.org.

The project I have in mind is cutting decorative dados in 4x4s for a
deck. It's a hassle to do it on the table saw (with a sled), so I
figured for the $100 or so a RAS sells for around here I could make that
part of the project much easier. You couldn't rent one for that.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Monday, June 30, 2014 4:30:36 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Michael wrote in

:





Related question. I bought an old Dewalt RAS for 40 bucks from a guy

because he appeared to need the money. It does not have a blade or

table, and I'm not sure how much work needs to be put into it. My

question: If I give it away, am I liable in any way in case it is

dangerous? Am I better off setting it by the curb for the trash guys,

and even there, should I render it unusable?



I know a guy named Mike Wilson... He plays hockey. Any chance you'd happen

to be the same guy? (If 4-4, 3-3, 9-0, 4-1, mean something to you, shoot

me an e-mail.)

Sorry. Not the same guy.

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 13:14:57 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Michael wrote:


I could, but I don't need it and I don't have the room. I already
have a Dewalt compound miter saw mounted to accommodate long pieces
for those kinds of cuts, and I use the table saw and a circular saw
and guide for wider boards.

IMHO you should just stay with what you have and avoid the additional
clutter of a tool you probably won't use any more than to just say you used
it. As for your original question - well advice is worth pretty much what
you pay for it, and as far as I know, there aren't even any lawyers in this
group, so any advice you're likely to get is likely to be worth what you
paid for it. I doubt you'd be liable but I'm no lawyer so what do I really
know? People sell stuff every day - cars, tools, etc. that the buyer goes
out and gets hurt with. Can't say as I've ever heard the private sell held
liable, but...

Of course no one can say whether he'd be held liable or not (courts
can do just about anything - and do) but in reality, that's what
liability insurance is for and why I carry a million dollar umbrella.
It may not cover someone burning their lip on a cup of coffee but it
will get the insurance company interested in defending me.

On 6/30/2014 4:44 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
....

I don't know what model it is. The seller didn't get a clear shot of the
model/info label, and hasn't sent me that information. It's a 9" model,
looks to be pre-AMF:
http://peoria.craigslist.org/tls/4512837082.html

I think it's either a GS or MBF, but that's only from looking at pictures
on vintagemachinery.org.

Wasn't really aware ofomh there was an actual 9" version, that'll be
fairly limiting in depth if a 10" blade really won't fit, but it's the
solid-carriage design and as long as it's not obviously just falling off
the rails for the price couldn't lose I'd guess.

The project I have in mind is cutting decorative dados in 4x4s for a
deck. It's a hassle to do it on the table saw (with a sled), so I
figured for the $100 or so a RAS sells for around here I could make that
part of the project much easier. You couldn't rent one for that.

Ayup, those are the kinds of things the RAS beats pants off TS
for--where it's so much easier to move the saw than the material.

Go for it...

--

wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 13:14:57 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Michael wrote:


I could, but I don't need it and I don't have the room. I already
have a Dewalt compound miter saw mounted to accommodate long pieces
for those kinds of cuts, and I use the table saw and a circular saw
and guide for wider boards.

IMHO you should just stay with what you have and avoid the additional
clutter of a tool you probably won't use any more than to just say
you used it. As for your original question - well advice is worth
pretty much what you pay for it, and as far as I know, there aren't
even any lawyers in this group, so any advice you're likely to get
is likely to be worth what you paid for it. I doubt you'd be liable
but I'm no lawyer so what do I really know? People sell stuff every
day - cars, tools, etc. that the buyer goes out and gets hurt with.
Can't say as I've ever heard the private sell held liable, but...
One thing that DOES happen is someone sells a homebuilt airplane,
the new pilot crashes it, and they come back on the builder - even if
he was 2 or 3 owners back. They seldom win, but the often try!!!

I'm guessing that's because it's a regulated industry?

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 20:12:20 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 13:14:57 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Michael wrote:


I could, but I don't need it and I don't have the room. I already
have a Dewalt compound miter saw mounted to accommodate long pieces
for those kinds of cuts, and I use the table saw and a circular saw
and guide for wider boards.

IMHO you should just stay with what you have and avoid the additional
clutter of a tool you probably won't use any more than to just say
you used it. As for your original question - well advice is worth
pretty much what you pay for it, and as far as I know, there aren't
even any lawyers in this group, so any advice you're likely to get
is likely to be worth what you paid for it. I doubt you'd be liable
but I'm no lawyer so what do I really know? People sell stuff every
day - cars, tools, etc. that the buyer goes out and gets hurt with.
Can't say as I've ever heard the private sell held liable, but...
One thing that DOES happen is someone sells a homebuilt airplane,
the new pilot crashes it, and they come back on the builder - even if
he was 2 or 3 owners back. They seldom win, but the often try!!!

I'm guessing that's because it's a regulated industry?

Anyone can sue. ...for pretty much any fool reason.

Puckdropper wrote:
dpb wrote in :

On 6/29/2014 10:22 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old,
but those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I
be looking for in evaluating the saw?
Which model, specifically? There are some DW that are quite old but
were just homeowner models I'd not pay much attention to; otoh, some
of them were "the real mcCoy"...

Secondly, for what purpose do you envision using it? I suspect the
utility you'll get will be in large part on what else you already have
and what you plan on doing going forward.

I've an old 16" one which I use for length-cutting and heavier work
that isn't nearly as simple to move the work thrue the TS and that it
doesn't have the capacity for. I've the room to have it set up in a
long bench with 8' either end for permanent support and the full barn
length alleyway in one direction if needs be. As long as I've the
room I'll never let it go, but it isn't the primary in terms of amount
of use by any stretch--but when it's needed, there's nothing else that
can touch it. It's heavy enough that it is, and stays, in adjustment.

As Leon, my first was one of the small 10" DeWalt's and I used it
exclusively for quite some time before buying the TS (I waited 'til
could afford the PM Model 66). It was adequate, but underpowered and
lightweight so took a fair amount of fiddling to keep it aligned.
But, there are things that are fair simpler w/ a RAS as compared to
the TS just as vice versa...

I don't know what model it is. The seller didn't get a clear shot of the
model/info label, and hasn't sent me that information. It's a 9" model,
looks to be pre-AMF:
http://peoria.craigslist.org/tls/4512837082.html
Sorry for my post, Puckdropper. In my mind, I was thinking Miter saw,
not RAS.



I think it's either a GS or MBF, but that's only from looking at pictures
on vintagemachinery.org.

The project I have in mind is cutting decorative dados in 4x4s for a
deck. It's a hassle to do it on the table saw (with a sled), so I
figured for the $100 or so a RAS sells for around here I could make that
part of the project much easier. You couldn't rent one for that.

Puckdropper

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 13:08:10 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 11:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Monday, June 30, 2014 12:59:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 10:40:20 -0700, "Bob La Londe"

wrote:



"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message

eb.com...

I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old,
but

those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality. What should I be
looking

for in evaluating the saw?



Puckdropper

--

Make it to fit, don't make it fit.



I have a 230V RAS, and I almost never ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever

ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever
ever

ever ever ever ever ever use it. Ok, it makes a fair to crappy extra
table

to store stuff on. If I took the saw and arm off of it then it would
make a

better table. So I guess I always use it. As a flat surface to store
stuff

on.



I use my contractor table saw almost everyday when I am in the shop,
and

usually a couple times a week even if I am working mostly in the field.
A

larger blade larger table cabinet saw would be handy when working a lot
with

it, but the contractor saw stores out of the way easier when not using
it,

and allows for quickly moving it out of the way even if its not used
for

just a little while.







But it is, by definition, almost ALWAYS out of tune, so it is pretty

much useless as a cabinet-maker's table saw.. Mabee not useless, but

definitely not optimal.

Of course, I check my cuts with a square. The saw has jogged out of tune a
couple of times and I've adjusted it. It's been a while since I've had to
do that. I'm not kidding when I say that the 45 degree cuts are
picture-frame ready. It amazes me. I need to buy a fine blade for it,
though. The cuts with the framing blade are a little rough. Maybe I could
sell the old RAS and pay for it that way.
All I can say is you bought a "good" contractor saw and you don't
throw it around like most contractors do if it has held it's tune that
well. The cheapassed sheetmetal based "contractor saws" I generally
see can't be trusted for anything finer than framing. (and I mean
HOUSE framing - not PICTURE framing!!

Heck, the way most houses are framed they don't anything better than a rock
hatchet squared off on the back side. I've been a licensed contractor
(communication) for over 20 yeas, and in the industry longer. I've seen
maybe half a dozen houses TOTAL that were framed or even layed out square.




Sadly, you are too true. (and the houses are not) The best houses I've
seen over the last 20 years are the "factory built" houses they bring
in on a number of flatbeads and erect with a crane. Generally they are
DEAD SQUARE.

Puckdropper wrote:


I'm looking at buying a used DeWalt RAS. It's definately quite old,
but those DeWalts have a reputation for top quality.

snip

I don't know what model it is. The seller didn't get a clear shot
of the
model/info label, and hasn't sent me that information. It's a 9"
model,
looks to be pre-AMF:

http://peoria.craigslist.org/tls/4512837082.html

I think it's either a GS or MBF, but that's only from looking at
pictures
on vintagemachinery.org.

The project I have in mind is cutting decorative dados in 4x4s for a
deck. It's a hassle to do it on the table saw (with a sled), so I
figured for the $100 or so a RAS sells for around here I could make
that
part of the project much easier. You couldn't rent one for that.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
First things I would want to know is there enough threaded arbor
to accept an 8" stacked dado set?

Are there adequate clearances to accept an 8" stacked dado set?

Lew

Bill wrote in
:

Sorry for my post, Puckdropper. In my mind, I was thinking Miter
saw, not RAS.

Even though you were thinking about the wrong tool, there were useful
suggestions in your post. Checking the cord is a good suggestion, and worn
bearings could indicate the tool is more of a project than a ready-to-use
tool.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 6/30/2014 8:40 PM, Bill wrote:
Snip


Sorry for my post, Puckdropper. In my mind, I was thinking Miter saw,
not RAS.



As the late great Roseanne Anna Danna used to say,
That's different!, Never mind. ;~)

On 2014-07-01, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 6/30/2014 8:40 PM, Bill wrote:
Snip


Sorry for my post, Puckdropper. In my mind, I was thinking Miter saw,
not RAS.

As the late great Roseanne Anna Danna used to say,
That's different!, Never mind. ;~)

Ya left out a "rose"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roseanne_Roseannadanna



--
Grant Edwards grant.b.edwards Yow! Vote for ME -- I'm
at well-tapered, half-cocked,
gmail.com ill-conceived and
TAX-DEFERRED!

On 2014-07-01, Grant Edwards wrote:
On 2014-07-01, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 6/30/2014 8:40 PM, Bill wrote:

[...]

Sorry for my post, Puckdropper. In my mind, I was thinking Miter saw,
not RAS.

As the late great Roseanne Anna Danna used to say,
That's different!, Never mind. ;~)

Ya left out a "rose"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roseanne_Roseannadanna

And you meant Emily Litella

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emily_Litella:

What is all this fuss I hear about the Supreme Court decision on a
"deaf" penalty? It's terrible! Deaf people have enough problems as
it is!

--
Grant Edwards grant.b.edwards Yow! I'm using my X-RAY
at VISION to obtain a rare
gmail.com glimpse of the INNER
WORKINGS of this POTATO!!

On 7/1/2014 9:17 AM, Grant Edwards wrote:
On 2014-07-01, Grant Edwards wrote:
On 2014-07-01, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 6/30/2014 8:40 PM, Bill wrote:

[...]

Sorry for my post, Puckdropper. In my mind, I was thinking Miter saw,
not RAS.

As the late great Roseanne Anna Danna used to say,
That's different!, Never mind. ;~)

Ya left out a "rose"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roseanne_Roseannadanna

And you meant Emily Litella

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emily_Litella:

What is all this fuss I hear about the Supreme Court decision on a
"deaf" penalty? It's terrible! Deaf people have enough problems as
it is!



DAMN! Your are right! I don't recall her name being that at all.....

She was a GREAT comedian and was one of many that made the early SNL a
great success.

Anyway Rosanna....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlQ9iOir6j8