I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.

I took out my engraver and just kept putting lines in a star burst from
the arbor out, but actually brought them from out to the arbor hole.

They lock nicely and don't slide, each face probably added less than 2
10 thous so it's all good.

Just a tip brought to you by the woodchucker.. who is buried under
snow.. 12-16 expected here today. I usually get the top end as we are in
the mountains, but I am in a valley in the hills... so it just dumps
here. I must have heard hundred times from the wife... do you have gas
for the snow blower... :-(
--
Jeff

On 2/13/2014 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.

I took out my engraver and just kept putting lines in a star burst from
the arbor out, but actually brought them from out to the arbor hole.

They lock nicely and don't slide, each face probably added less than 2
10 thous so it's all good.

Just a tip brought to you by the woodchucker.. who is buried under
snow.. 12-16 expected here today. I usually get the top end as we are in
the mountains, but I am in a valley in the hills... so it just dumps
here. I must have heard hundred times from the wife... do you have gas
for the snow blower... :-(


Good tip


FWIW I have a Forrest DadoKing dado set. I love the set but like you my
set will spin some times, some times not.

Here is what I have determined. Mine spin if I don't use the washer
between the outer blade and the net. The friction between the nut and
the outer blade causes the blade to reposition when I tighten the nut.

When cutting a narrower dado and using the out side washer I get no
spinning when tightening the nut.

On 2/13/2014 5:14 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/13/2014 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.

I took out my engraver and just kept putting lines in a star burst from
the arbor out, but actually brought them from out to the arbor hole.

They lock nicely and don't slide, each face probably added less than 2
10 thous so it's all good.

Just a tip brought to you by the woodchucker.. who is buried under
snow.. 12-16 expected here today. I usually get the top end as we are in
the mountains, but I am in a valley in the hills... so it just dumps
here. I must have heard hundred times from the wife... do you have gas
for the snow blower... :-(


Good tip


FWIW I have a Forrest DadoKing dado set. I love the set but like you my
set will spin some times, some times not.

Here is what I have determined. Mine spin if I don't use the washer
between the outer blade and the net. The friction between the nut and
the outer blade causes the blade to reposition when I tighten the nut.

When cutting a narrower dado and using the out side washer I get no
spinning when tightening the nut.

is your spinning a result of wax or lube? or just steel to steel?

NET???

--
Jeff

In article ,
woodchucker wrote:

I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.


Jeff,

I have used Dri Cote with no slipping problems for years. And have had
good luck with Top Cote on cast iron surfaces. However, I seem to recall
that they have changed their names, but should be easy to find in the
catalogs.

--
Dan Kozar

On 2/13/2014 7:32 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
woodchucker wrote:

I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.


Jeff,

I have used Dri Cote with no slipping problems for years. And have had
good luck with Top Cote on cast iron surfaces. However, I seem to recall
that they have changed their names, but should be easy to find in the
catalogs.


Thanks, but I already did the engraving. Seems like the knurling (a form
of) will do the trick. If I run into another situation I'll consider
them. Between all the stuff out there, it's hard to remember which does
what. Boeshield, topcote, dri cote, and others.

--
Jeff

On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 19:51:33 -0500, woodchucker
wrote:

On 2/13/2014 7:32 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
woodchucker wrote:

I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.


Jeff,

I have used Dri Cote with no slipping problems for years. And have had
good luck with Top Cote on cast iron surfaces. However, I seem to recall
that they have changed their names, but should be easy to find in the
catalogs.


Thanks, but I already did the engraving. Seems like the knurling (a form
of) will do the trick. If I run into another situation I'll consider
them. Between all the stuff out there, it's hard to remember which does
what. Boeshield, topcote, dri cote, and others.

Bostick bought DriCote and renamed it BladeCote (TopCote is now
GlideCote). They're the "same thing" ("scare quotes" because some
believe they changed the formula). They seem to be much more
available these days, though if you buy on the Internet, watch the
shipping costs!

On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the
points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put
a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it
up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while
on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to
be a lube too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going
to keep them from spinning into each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually used
it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry cold was
really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening in
bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It can be
found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

wrote:
On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 19:51:33 -0500, woodchucker
wrote:

On 2/13/2014 7:32 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
woodchucker wrote:

I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.


Jeff,

I have used Dri Cote with no slipping problems for years. And have had
good luck with Top Cote on cast iron surfaces. However, I seem to recall
that they have changed their names, but should be easy to find in the
catalogs.


Thanks, but I already did the engraving. Seems like the knurling (a form
of) will do the trick. If I run into another situation I'll consider
them. Between all the stuff out there, it's hard to remember which does
what. Boeshield, topcote, dri cote, and others.

Bostick bought DriCote and renamed it BladeCote (TopCote is now
GlideCote). They're the "same thing" ("scare quotes" because some
believe they changed the formula). They seem to be much more
available these days, though if you buy on the Internet, watch the
shipping costs!

Actually Bostick bought Topcote from Empire back in the 80'- 90's and
recently renamed it. I suppose there was a non compete clause as Empire
only started competing again 10+ years ago.

woodchucker wrote:
On 2/13/2014 5:14 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/13/2014 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.

I took out my engraver and just kept putting lines in a star burst from
the arbor out, but actually brought them from out to the arbor hole.

They lock nicely and don't slide, each face probably added less than 2
10 thous so it's all good.

Just a tip brought to you by the woodchucker.. who is buried under
snow.. 12-16 expected here today. I usually get the top end as we are in
the mountains, but I am in a valley in the hills... so it just dumps
here. I must have heard hundred times from the wife... do you have gas
for the snow blower... :-(


Good tip


FWIW I have a Forrest DadoKing dado set. I love the set but like you my
set will spin some times, some times not.

Here is what I have determined. Mine spin if I don't use the washer
between the outer blade and the net. The friction between the nut and
the outer blade causes the blade to reposition when I tighten the nut.

When cutting a narrower dado and using the out side washer I get no
spinning when tightening the nut.

is your spinning a result of wax or lube? or just steel to steel?

NET???


Steel to steel, and mostly only the outer blade against the nut when
tightening.

On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the
points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put
a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it
up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while
on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to
be a lube too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going
to keep them from spinning into each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually used
it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry cold was
really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening in
bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It can be
found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7.
DriCote, blade cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.



--
Jeff

On 2/14/14, 9:44 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and
the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never
put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I
clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because
they slip while on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust
preventitive was going to be a lube too. So after lubing it, I
started thinking how am I going to keep them from spinning into
each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually
used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry
cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening
in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It
can be found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote, blade
cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.


The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-.../dp/B00066U2YM

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth.
The volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax.
With those canned products that volume also includes the propellants and
carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that you're
actually getting close to the same amount of product with the tube of
wax than the aerosol can.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

--
Where have all the flowers gone? Pete Seeger 1919-2014

On 2/14/2014 11:12 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 9:44 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and
the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never
put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I
clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because
they slip while on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust
preventitive was going to be a lube too. So after lubing it, I
started thinking how am I going to keep them from spinning into
each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually
used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry
cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening
in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It
can be found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote, blade
cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.


The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-.../dp/B00066U2YM

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth.
The volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax.
With those canned products that volume also includes the propellants and
carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that you're
actually getting close to the same amount of product with the tube of
wax than the aerosol can.


I always thought the weight was actual product and not propellant. That
would seem to be a bad way of telling the consumer how much they are
getting if they included propellant.

--
Jeff

On 2/14/14, 11:08 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.


Exactly. I don't get his post at all.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:08:13 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

Boeshield is not at all slippery. That's why I'm going to try
switching to GlideCote (TopCote).

On 2/14/2014 1:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 11:08 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.


Exactly. I don't get his post at all.



I was merely referring to the advice given by others on products.

How easy would it be to spread and buff out the bow wax?
Seem like bees wax, as bees wax always seems sticky in raw form.


--
Jeff

On 2/14/14, 12:34 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 1:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 11:08 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the
same amount of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol
can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The
exact opposite of what is wanted in this case.


Exactly. I don't get his post at all.



I was merely referring to the advice given by others on products.

How easy would it be to spread and buff out the bow wax? Seem like
bees wax, as bees wax always seems sticky in raw form.


Seems like? I don't think "seems like" is relevant to this discussion.

You don't buff it out. It's pretty darn easy to rub that tube up and
down my sticks a few times. You could do the same thing to the side of a
saw blade in about ten seconds. No need to spread or buff. It would
only need to be in contact with a small percentage of the blades,
anyway. He's trying to stop the blades from slipping. This is an
uncommon problem and it would take very little *added* friction to solve
it.

The real point, however, is that this isn't a lube. He wanted something
to prevent rust that wasn't a lubricant. This is the only product of
all of those that meets those requirements.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/14/14, 12:22 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 11:12 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 9:44 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year
to redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to
1/4 and the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably
never put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the
teeth. So I clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing
dadoes because they slip while on the arbor. But I had no
choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube too. So
after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep
them from spinning into each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I
actually used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks
because the dry cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those
listening in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be
slippery. It can be found at any sporting good store with an
archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote,
blade cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.


The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-.../dp/B00066U2YM

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth. The
volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax. With those
canned products that volume also includes the propellants and
carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that
you're actually getting close to the same amount of product with
the tube of wax than the aerosol can.


I always thought the weight was actual product and not propellant.
That would seem to be a bad way of telling the consumer how much they
are getting if they included propellant.


Perhaps not the propellant, I don't know. But it wouldn't surprise me if
the stated amount on the can was all ingredients. There are other
carriers in there that allow the lube to be sprayed which evaporate away.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 16:01:01 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 2/14/14, 12:34 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 1:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 11:08 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the
same amount of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol
can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The
exact opposite of what is wanted in this case.


Exactly. I don't get his post at all.



I was merely referring to the advice given by others on products.

How easy would it be to spread and buff out the bow wax? Seem like
bees wax, as bees wax always seems sticky in raw form.


Seems like? I don't think "seems like" is relevant to this discussion.

You don't buff it out. It's pretty darn easy to rub that tube up and
down my sticks a few times. You could do the same thing to the side of a
saw blade in about ten seconds. No need to spread or buff. It would
only need to be in contact with a small percentage of the blades,
anyway. He's trying to stop the blades from slipping. This is an
uncommon problem and it would take very little *added* friction to solve
it.

You would need to spread it if you want full coverage to prevent rust
- which was, let's face it, the FIRST thing he was trying to
accomplish. A few strokes of the wax stick is NOT going to prevent the
blade from rusting.

The real point, however, is that this isn't a lube. He wanted something
to prevent rust that wasn't a lubricant. This is the only product of
all of those that meets those requirements.

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 16:03:44 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 2/14/14, 12:22 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 11:12 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 9:44 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year
to redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to
1/4 and the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably
never put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the
teeth. So I clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing
dadoes because they slip while on the arbor. But I had no
choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube too. So
after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep
them from spinning into each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I
actually used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks
because the dry cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those
listening in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be
slippery. It can be found at any sporting good store with an
archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote,
blade cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.


The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-.../dp/B00066U2YM

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth. The
volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax. With those
canned products that volume also includes the propellants and
carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that
you're actually getting close to the same amount of product with
the tube of wax than the aerosol can.


I always thought the weight was actual product and not propellant.
That would seem to be a bad way of telling the consumer how much they
are getting if they included propellant.


Perhaps not the propellant, I don't know. But it wouldn't surprise me if
the stated amount on the can was all ingredients. There are other
carriers in there that allow the lube to be sprayed which evaporate away.
The can says "net weight" - which includes the wax, the solvent, and
the propellant. Inside the can all 3 are liquid, and after shaking
they are pretty well mixed (in solution),

On 2/14/14, 6:58 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 16:01:01 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 2/14/14, 12:34 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 1:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 11:08 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to
the same amount of product with the tube of wax than the
aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The
exact opposite of what is wanted in this case.


Exactly. I don't get his post at all.



I was merely referring to the advice given by others on
products.

How easy would it be to spread and buff out the bow wax? Seem
like bees wax, as bees wax always seems sticky in raw form.


Seems like? I don't think "seems like" is relevant to this
discussion.

You don't buff it out. It's pretty darn easy to rub that tube up
and down my sticks a few times. You could do the same thing to the
side of a saw blade in about ten seconds. No need to spread or
buff. It would only need to be in contact with a small percentage
of the blades, anyway. He's trying to stop the blades from
slipping. This is an uncommon problem and it would take very
little *added* friction to solve it.

You would need to spread it if you want full coverage to prevent
rust - which was, let's face it, the FIRST thing he was trying to
accomplish. A few strokes of the wax stick is NOT going to prevent
the blade from rusting.

The real point, however, is that this isn't a lube. He wanted
something to prevent rust that wasn't a lubricant. This is the
only product of all of those that meets those requirements.


You're right, I neglected to cover that.
Ehem.... add another ten seconds to cover the whole blade.

Love this group... half guys who really are looking for advice and want
to help others, and half guys who just love to bitch and moan and argue.

(BTW, who is selling saw blades that rust!?)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/14/2014 7:20 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 6:58 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 16:01:01 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 2/14/14, 12:34 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 1:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 11:08 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to
the same amount of product with the tube of wax than the
aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The
exact opposite of what is wanted in this case.


Exactly. I don't get his post at all.



I was merely referring to the advice given by others on
products.

How easy would it be to spread and buff out the bow wax? Seem
like bees wax, as bees wax always seems sticky in raw form.


Seems like? I don't think "seems like" is relevant to this
discussion.

You don't buff it out. It's pretty darn easy to rub that tube up
and down my sticks a few times. You could do the same thing to the
side of a saw blade in about ten seconds. No need to spread or
buff. It would only need to be in contact with a small percentage
of the blades, anyway. He's trying to stop the blades from
slipping. This is an uncommon problem and it would take very
little *added* friction to solve it.

If he is talking about the same slipping I am it is between next chipper
and the outer blade that is next to the arbor nut. In some cases you
have to leave the washer off when the stack is too wide. If only the
nut is applied to the outer blade the nut will often turn that blade
when tightening. The outer washer is normally beveled on the nut side
and there is less friction between it and the nut when tightening than
there is when the nut is tightened up against the outer blade.

In a nut shell My outer blade slips against the chipper blade when I do
not use the washer between the nut and the blade. I get no slipping
when tightening when I use the washer.




You would need to spread it if you want full coverage to prevent
rust - which was, let's face it, the FIRST thing he was trying to
accomplish. A few strokes of the wax stick is NOT going to prevent
the blade from rusting.

The real point, however, is that this isn't a lube. He wanted
something to prevent rust that wasn't a lubricant. This is the
only product of all of those that meets those requirements.


You're right, I neglected to cover that.
Ehem.... add another ten seconds to cover the whole blade.

Love this group... half guys who really are looking for advice and want
to help others, and half guys who just love to bitch and moan and argue.

I think what some don't realize is that wax it self is not slippery.
Yes you wax your TS top to make it slick. BUT you have to buff off the
excess before it becomes slick. It feels slick after buffing because
the tiny imperfections in the metal have been filled and they no longer
grab as much as when they were not filled. Same goes with waxing your
car's paint. Surfers waxed their boards but do not wipe off the wax
because they wanted to surface to not be slippery.





(BTW, who is selling saw blades that rust!?)


Forrest is one, actually any blade that I have owned and does not have
paint on it has rusted to some extent.

On 2/14/2014 12:23 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:08:13 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

Boeshield is not at all slippery. That's why I'm going to try
switching to GlideCote (TopCote).


Boeshield is not slippery at all, you have to buff it off before things
begin to become close to slick.

The TopCotes products have always been the product that I go back to
after trying another.


Many years ago when Empire made TopCote mid 80's it was only designed
and or sold as a product to make the metal surface slick and came in a
pump bottle. I discovered that it worked extremely well, so much that
if I tossed a short board on top of the saw surface it was very likely
to slide off the opposite edge. I also discovered that the product had
a bonus feature, I no longer had a rust problem in humid Houston.

After they sold TopCote to Bostich it was never packaged the same and
never worked as well. The old TopCote dispensed as a liquid that
actually puddled on the saw surface and evaporated. The Bostich mostly
comes out as a fog and does not seem to penetrate as well before
evaporating.

On 2/14/2014 12:22 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 11:12 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 9:44 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and
the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never
put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I
clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because
they slip while on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust
preventitive was going to be a lube too. So after lubing it, I
started thinking how am I going to keep them from spinning into
each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually
used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry
cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening
in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It
can be found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote, blade
cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.


The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-.../dp/B00066U2YM

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth.
The volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax.
With those canned products that volume also includes the propellants and
carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that you're
actually getting close to the same amount of product with the tube of
wax than the aerosol can.


I always thought the weight was actual product and not propellant. That
would seem to be a bad way of telling the consumer how much they are
getting if they included propellant.


That is what one would think but thinking back, the old Empire TopCote
that was applied from a 4~5 oz pump spray bottle easily last as long as
the 10oz. Bostich TopCote that comes out like a fog.

On 2/15/14, 8:27 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:23 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:08:13 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

Boeshield is not at all slippery. That's why I'm going to try
switching to GlideCote (TopCote).


Boeshield is not slippery at all, you have to buff it off before things
begin to become close to slick.


You are correct. It's quite gummy, isn't it?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 08:27:25 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/14/2014 12:23 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:08:13 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

Boeshield is not at all slippery. That's why I'm going to try
switching to GlideCote (TopCote).


Boeshield is not slippery at all, you have to buff it off before things
begin to become close to slick.

The TopCotes products have always been the product that I go back to
after trying another.

Any hints for removing the Boeshield completely? Just mineral
spirits?

Many years ago when Empire made TopCote mid 80's it was only designed
and or sold as a product to make the metal surface slick and came in a
pump bottle. I discovered that it worked extremely well, so much that
if I tossed a short board on top of the saw surface it was very likely
to slide off the opposite edge. I also discovered that the product had
a bonus feature, I no longer had a rust problem in humid Houston.

After they sold TopCote to Bostich it was never packaged the same and
never worked as well. The old TopCote dispensed as a liquid that
actually puddled on the saw surface and evaporated. The Bostich mostly
comes out as a fog and does not seem to penetrate as well before
evaporating.

Hmm. Does it still protect your saw?

On 2/15/2014 11:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 08:27:25 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/14/2014 12:23 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:08:13 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

Boeshield is not at all slippery. That's why I'm going to try
switching to GlideCote (TopCote).


Boeshield is not slippery at all, you have to buff it off before things
begin to become close to slick.

The TopCotes products have always been the product that I go back to
after trying another.

Any hints for removing the Boeshield completely? Just mineral
spirits?

Buff buff buff or Acetone... Not sure about Mineral Spirits.





Many years ago when Empire made TopCote mid 80's it was only designed
and or sold as a product to make the metal surface slick and came in a
pump bottle. I discovered that it worked extremely well, so much that
if I tossed a short board on top of the saw surface it was very likely
to slide off the opposite edge. I also discovered that the product had
a bonus feature, I no longer had a rust problem in humid Houston.

After they sold TopCote to Bostich it was never packaged the same and
never worked as well. The old TopCote dispensed as a liquid that
actually puddled on the saw surface and evaporated. The Bostich mostly
comes out as a fog and does not seem to penetrate as well before
evaporating.

Hmm. Does it still protect your saw?

As good as any thing that I have used lately. If you have never used it
before you want to apply as directed. IIRC a couple of heavy coats.

Now if you do get a rust spot..... And you are going to think I am
crazy...... put a small spot of wood glue, the regular stuff on the
rust spot and leave it there a minute or two. In fact if you just put a
spot anywhere on the cast iron top and wipe it off 10 or seconds later
the surface will look brand new.

On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 18:27:21 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/15/2014 11:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 08:27:25 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/14/2014 12:23 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:08:13 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

Boeshield is not at all slippery. That's why I'm going to try
switching to GlideCote (TopCote).


Boeshield is not slippery at all, you have to buff it off before things
begin to become close to slick.

The TopCotes products have always been the product that I go back to
after trying another.

Any hints for removing the Boeshield completely? Just mineral
spirits?

Buff buff buff or Acetone... Not sure about Mineral Spirits.

The directions say that mineral spirits will take it off but it seems
to leave some. I can try acetone but I normally don't have it around.


Many years ago when Empire made TopCote mid 80's it was only designed
and or sold as a product to make the metal surface slick and came in a
pump bottle. I discovered that it worked extremely well, so much that
if I tossed a short board on top of the saw surface it was very likely
to slide off the opposite edge. I also discovered that the product had
a bonus feature, I no longer had a rust problem in humid Houston.

After they sold TopCote to Bostich it was never packaged the same and
never worked as well. The old TopCote dispensed as a liquid that
actually puddled on the saw surface and evaporated. The Bostich mostly
comes out as a fog and does not seem to penetrate as well before
evaporating.

Hmm. Does it still protect your saw?

As good as any thing that I have used lately. If you have never used it
before you want to apply as directed. IIRC a couple of heavy coats.

I will (read the instructions). I bought a can but I haven't taken
the Boeshield off yet. It's been working fine but I don't like its
surface.

Now if you do get a rust spot..... And you are going to think I am
crazy...... put a small spot of wood glue, the regular stuff on the
rust spot and leave it there a minute or two. In fact if you just put a
spot anywhere on the cast iron top and wipe it off 10 or seconds later
the surface will look brand new.

You're right..... ;-) I'm not even going to ask how you found this
trick.

On 2/15/2014 8:31 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 18:27:21 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/15/2014 11:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 08:27:25 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/14/2014 12:23 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:08:13 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

Boeshield is not at all slippery. That's why I'm going to try
switching to GlideCote (TopCote).


Boeshield is not slippery at all, you have to buff it off before things
begin to become close to slick.

The TopCotes products have always been the product that I go back to
after trying another.

Any hints for removing the Boeshield completely? Just mineral
spirits?

Buff buff buff or Acetone... Not sure about Mineral Spirits.

The directions say that mineral spirits will take it off but it seems
to leave some. I can try acetone but I normally don't have it around.


Many years ago when Empire made TopCote mid 80's it was only designed
and or sold as a product to make the metal surface slick and came in a
pump bottle. I discovered that it worked extremely well, so much that
if I tossed a short board on top of the saw surface it was very likely
to slide off the opposite edge. I also discovered that the product had
a bonus feature, I no longer had a rust problem in humid Houston.

After they sold TopCote to Bostich it was never packaged the same and
never worked as well. The old TopCote dispensed as a liquid that
actually puddled on the saw surface and evaporated. The Bostich mostly
comes out as a fog and does not seem to penetrate as well before
evaporating.

Hmm. Does it still protect your saw?

As good as any thing that I have used lately. If you have never used it
before you want to apply as directed. IIRC a couple of heavy coats.

I will (read the instructions). I bought a can but I haven't taken
the Boeshield off yet. It's been working fine but I don't like its
surface.

Now if you do get a rust spot..... And you are going to think I am
crazy...... put a small spot of wood glue, the regular stuff on the
rust spot and leave it there a minute or two. In fact if you just put a
spot anywhere on the cast iron top and wipe it off 10 or seconds later
the surface will look brand new.

You're right..... ;-) I'm not even going to ask how you found this
trick.


I used to use my TS top and extension table to glue up tall cabinets.
Occasionally glue would drip on to the surface of the cast iron table
top. When removing the glue I made this discovery.

Take note, if you leave it on there too long rust will develop. IIRC I
let it dry when I discovered the rust.