I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.

I took out my engraver and just kept putting lines in a star burst from
the arbor out, but actually brought them from out to the arbor hole.

They lock nicely and don't slide, each face probably added less than 2
10 thous so it's all good.

Just a tip brought to you by the woodchucker.. who is buried under
snow.. 12-16 expected here today. I usually get the top end as we are in
the mountains, but I am in a valley in the hills... so it just dumps
here. I must have heard hundred times from the wife... do you have gas
for the snow blower... :-(
--
Jeff

On 2/13/2014 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.

I took out my engraver and just kept putting lines in a star burst from
the arbor out, but actually brought them from out to the arbor hole.

They lock nicely and don't slide, each face probably added less than 2
10 thous so it's all good.

Just a tip brought to you by the woodchucker.. who is buried under
snow.. 12-16 expected here today. I usually get the top end as we are in
the mountains, but I am in a valley in the hills... so it just dumps
here. I must have heard hundred times from the wife... do you have gas
for the snow blower... :-(


Good tip


FWIW I have a Forrest DadoKing dado set. I love the set but like you my
set will spin some times, some times not.

Here is what I have determined. Mine spin if I don't use the washer
between the outer blade and the net. The friction between the nut and
the outer blade causes the blade to reposition when I tighten the nut.

When cutting a narrower dado and using the out side washer I get no
spinning when tightening the nut.

On 2/13/2014 5:14 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/13/2014 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.

I took out my engraver and just kept putting lines in a star burst from
the arbor out, but actually brought them from out to the arbor hole.

They lock nicely and don't slide, each face probably added less than 2
10 thous so it's all good.

Just a tip brought to you by the woodchucker.. who is buried under
snow.. 12-16 expected here today. I usually get the top end as we are in
the mountains, but I am in a valley in the hills... so it just dumps
here. I must have heard hundred times from the wife... do you have gas
for the snow blower... :-(


Good tip


FWIW I have a Forrest DadoKing dado set. I love the set but like you my
set will spin some times, some times not.

Here is what I have determined. Mine spin if I don't use the washer
between the outer blade and the net. The friction between the nut and
the outer blade causes the blade to reposition when I tighten the nut.

When cutting a narrower dado and using the out side washer I get no
spinning when tightening the nut.

is your spinning a result of wax or lube? or just steel to steel?

NET???

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 2/13/2014 5:14 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/13/2014 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.

I took out my engraver and just kept putting lines in a star burst from
the arbor out, but actually brought them from out to the arbor hole.

They lock nicely and don't slide, each face probably added less than 2
10 thous so it's all good.

Just a tip brought to you by the woodchucker.. who is buried under
snow.. 12-16 expected here today. I usually get the top end as we are in
the mountains, but I am in a valley in the hills... so it just dumps
here. I must have heard hundred times from the wife... do you have gas
for the snow blower... :-(


Good tip


FWIW I have a Forrest DadoKing dado set. I love the set but like you my
set will spin some times, some times not.

Here is what I have determined. Mine spin if I don't use the washer
between the outer blade and the net. The friction between the nut and
the outer blade causes the blade to reposition when I tighten the nut.

When cutting a narrower dado and using the out side washer I get no
spinning when tightening the nut.

is your spinning a result of wax or lube? or just steel to steel?

NET???


Steel to steel, and mostly only the outer blade against the nut when
tightening.

In article ,
woodchucker wrote:

I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.


Jeff,

I have used Dri Cote with no slipping problems for years. And have had
good luck with Top Cote on cast iron surfaces. However, I seem to recall
that they have changed their names, but should be easy to find in the
catalogs.

--
Dan Kozar

On 2/13/2014 7:32 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
woodchucker wrote:

I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.


Jeff,

I have used Dri Cote with no slipping problems for years. And have had
good luck with Top Cote on cast iron surfaces. However, I seem to recall
that they have changed their names, but should be easy to find in the
catalogs.


Thanks, but I already did the engraving. Seems like the knurling (a form
of) will do the trick. If I run into another situation I'll consider
them. Between all the stuff out there, it's hard to remember which does
what. Boeshield, topcote, dri cote, and others.

--
Jeff

On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 19:51:33 -0500, woodchucker
wrote:

On 2/13/2014 7:32 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
woodchucker wrote:

I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.


Jeff,

I have used Dri Cote with no slipping problems for years. And have had
good luck with Top Cote on cast iron surfaces. However, I seem to recall
that they have changed their names, but should be easy to find in the
catalogs.


Thanks, but I already did the engraving. Seems like the knurling (a form
of) will do the trick. If I run into another situation I'll consider
them. Between all the stuff out there, it's hard to remember which does
what. Boeshield, topcote, dri cote, and others.

Bostick bought DriCote and renamed it BladeCote (TopCote is now
GlideCote). They're the "same thing" ("scare quotes" because some
believe they changed the formula). They seem to be much more
available these days, though if you buy on the Internet, watch the
shipping costs!

wrote:
On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 19:51:33 -0500, woodchucker
wrote:

On 2/13/2014 7:32 PM, Dan Kozar wrote:
In article ,
woodchucker wrote:

I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to redo,
the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the points
were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put a
rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it up, and
after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while on the
arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube
too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep them
from spinning into each other.


Jeff,

I have used Dri Cote with no slipping problems for years. And have had
good luck with Top Cote on cast iron surfaces. However, I seem to recall
that they have changed their names, but should be easy to find in the
catalogs.


Thanks, but I already did the engraving. Seems like the knurling (a form
of) will do the trick. If I run into another situation I'll consider
them. Between all the stuff out there, it's hard to remember which does
what. Boeshield, topcote, dri cote, and others.

Bostick bought DriCote and renamed it BladeCote (TopCote is now
GlideCote). They're the "same thing" ("scare quotes" because some
believe they changed the formula). They seem to be much more
available these days, though if you buy on the Internet, watch the
shipping costs!

Actually Bostick bought Topcote from Empire back in the 80'- 90's and
recently renamed it. I suppose there was a non compete clause as Empire
only started competing again 10+ years ago.

On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the
points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put
a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it
up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while
on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to
be a lube too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going
to keep them from spinning into each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually used
it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry cold was
really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening in
bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It can be
found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and the
points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never put
a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I clean it
up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because they slip while
on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust preventitive was going to
be a lube too. So after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going
to keep them from spinning into each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually used
it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry cold was
really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening in
bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It can be
found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7.
DriCote, blade cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.



--
Jeff

On 2/14/14, 9:44 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and
the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never
put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I
clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because
they slip while on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust
preventitive was going to be a lube too. So after lubing it, I
started thinking how am I going to keep them from spinning into
each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually
used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry
cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening
in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It
can be found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote, blade
cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.


The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-.../dp/B00066U2YM

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth.
The volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax.
With those canned products that volume also includes the propellants and
carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that you're
actually getting close to the same amount of product with the tube of
wax than the aerosol can.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

--
Where have all the flowers gone? Pete Seeger 1919-2014

On 2/14/14, 11:08 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.


Exactly. I don't get his post at all.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:08:13 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to the same amount
of product with the tube of wax than the aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The exact
opposite of what is wanted in this case.

Boeshield is not at all slippery. That's why I'm going to try
switching to GlideCote (TopCote).

On 2/14/2014 11:12 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 9:44 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and
the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never
put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I
clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because
they slip while on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust
preventitive was going to be a lube too. So after lubing it, I
started thinking how am I going to keep them from spinning into
each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually
used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry
cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening
in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It
can be found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote, blade
cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.


The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-.../dp/B00066U2YM

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth.
The volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax.
With those canned products that volume also includes the propellants and
carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that you're
actually getting close to the same amount of product with the tube of
wax than the aerosol can.


I always thought the weight was actual product and not propellant. That
would seem to be a bad way of telling the consumer how much they are
getting if they included propellant.

--
Jeff

On 2/14/14, 12:22 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 11:12 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 9:44 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year
to redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to
1/4 and the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably
never put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the
teeth. So I clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing
dadoes because they slip while on the arbor. But I had no
choice, any rust preventitive was going to be a lube too. So
after lubing it, I started thinking how am I going to keep
them from spinning into each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I
actually used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks
because the dry cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those
listening in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be
slippery. It can be found at any sporting good store with an
archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote,
blade cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.


The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-.../dp/B00066U2YM

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth. The
volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax. With those
canned products that volume also includes the propellants and
carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that
you're actually getting close to the same amount of product with
the tube of wax than the aerosol can.


I always thought the weight was actual product and not propellant.
That would seem to be a bad way of telling the consumer how much they
are getting if they included propellant.


Perhaps not the propellant, I don't know. But it wouldn't surprise me if
the stated amount on the can was all ingredients. There are other
carriers in there that allow the lube to be sprayed which evaporate away.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/14/2014 12:22 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 11:12 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 9:44 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 12:27 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/13/14, 9:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I have a ridge carbide dado, I gave it back to them last year to
redo, the sizes were so far off I could not get close to 1/4 and
the points were coming through heavily.

I needed to use it and it was heavliy rusted. They probably never
put a rust preventitive on it after recutting the teeth. So I
clean it up, and after using it, I hate waxing dadoes because
they slip while on the arbor. But I had no choice, any rust
preventitive was going to be a lube too. So after lubing it, I
started thinking how am I going to keep them from spinning into
each other.


I use bow string wax on my drumsticks to increase grip. I actually
used it on some paint brushes the last couple weeks because the dry
cold was really effecting my grip.

I know you already came up with a solution, but for those listening
in bow string wax it would prevent rust but not be slippery. It
can be found at any sporting good store with an archery section.


FYI

So from what I see 1.25 oz of bow string is about $7. DriCote, blade
cote is $10-$17 for 10.75 oz.

Top Cote (lube) now Glide Coat $10 for 10.75 oz.

Boeshield (lube) is about 18 for 12oz.


The stuff I use is about 4 bucks out the door...
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-.../dp/B00066U2YM

Those aren't accurate price comparisons, for what it's worth.
The volume/weight/whatever of the bow string wax is all wax.
With those canned products that volume also includes the propellants and
carriers for the actual lube or coating. I would speculate that you're
actually getting close to the same amount of product with the tube of
wax than the aerosol can.


I always thought the weight was actual product and not propellant. That
would seem to be a bad way of telling the consumer how much they are
getting if they included propellant.


That is what one would think but thinking back, the old Empire TopCote
that was applied from a 4~5 oz pump spray bottle easily last as long as
the 10oz. Bostich TopCote that comes out like a fog.