On 2/14/2014 7:20 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 6:58 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 16:01:01 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 2/14/14, 12:34 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 2/14/2014 1:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/14/14, 11:08 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:12:22 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I would speculate that you're actually getting close to
the same amount of product with the tube of wax than the
aerosol can.

Not only that, but those other products are *slippery*! The
exact opposite of what is wanted in this case.


Exactly. I don't get his post at all.



I was merely referring to the advice given by others on
products.

How easy would it be to spread and buff out the bow wax? Seem
like bees wax, as bees wax always seems sticky in raw form.


Seems like? I don't think "seems like" is relevant to this
discussion.

You don't buff it out. It's pretty darn easy to rub that tube up
and down my sticks a few times. You could do the same thing to the
side of a saw blade in about ten seconds. No need to spread or
buff. It would only need to be in contact with a small percentage
of the blades, anyway. He's trying to stop the blades from
slipping. This is an uncommon problem and it would take very
little *added* friction to solve it.

If he is talking about the same slipping I am it is between next chipper
and the outer blade that is next to the arbor nut. In some cases you
have to leave the washer off when the stack is too wide. If only the
nut is applied to the outer blade the nut will often turn that blade
when tightening. The outer washer is normally beveled on the nut side
and there is less friction between it and the nut when tightening than
there is when the nut is tightened up against the outer blade.

In a nut shell My outer blade slips against the chipper blade when I do
not use the washer between the nut and the blade. I get no slipping
when tightening when I use the washer.




You would need to spread it if you want full coverage to prevent
rust - which was, let's face it, the FIRST thing he was trying to
accomplish. A few strokes of the wax stick is NOT going to prevent
the blade from rusting.

The real point, however, is that this isn't a lube. He wanted
something to prevent rust that wasn't a lubricant. This is the
only product of all of those that meets those requirements.


You're right, I neglected to cover that.
Ehem.... add another ten seconds to cover the whole blade.

Love this group... half guys who really are looking for advice and want
to help others, and half guys who just love to bitch and moan and argue.

I think what some don't realize is that wax it self is not slippery.
Yes you wax your TS top to make it slick. BUT you have to buff off the
excess before it becomes slick. It feels slick after buffing because
the tiny imperfections in the metal have been filled and they no longer
grab as much as when they were not filled. Same goes with waxing your
car's paint. Surfers waxed their boards but do not wipe off the wax
because they wanted to surface to not be slippery.





(BTW, who is selling saw blades that rust!?)


Forrest is one, actually any blade that I have owned and does not have
paint on it has rusted to some extent.