My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that
died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20
years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to
include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas:
a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not
been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded
that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do
actually exist; and
b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had
the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like
"gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just
don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw
simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to
having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain
them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm
right-handed.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

In article , Doug Miller
wrote:

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

I have a Milwaukee, corded, about 7 years old. It's a great saw. Never
had a problem with it bogging or wandering and I am not a gentle man
with my power tools.

For any serious use, I don't see how a cordless can compete. You'd need
at least three, maybe four batteries in constant rotation. Much easier,
and cheaper, to run an extension cord.

On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

I own four.

~ A cordless DeWalt, which has it narrow uses, but narrow is the
operative word and not a "go to" tool.

~ A Makita 5007NB which is one of the best circular saws I've ever
owned, and the one I'd carry with me to most jobs if I could only take
one, and for your above purposes. Light, easy to wield, and has enough
power for all the above.

~ An older Skil77 worm drive, which, although I love it, is just too
much saw too be carrying around unless you're a framer on the joist crew.

~ and of course, the Festool TS75, which is a damn fine cabinet circular
saw, but not practical in price or function for most of your needs above.

FWIW, I'd still buy the Makita again if I lost it.

You're sure to get lots of advice on this one ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Doug Miller" wrote

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that
died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly
20
years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough
to
include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold
homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

Since you ruled out Festool:
Milwaukee fan here.
I also prefer the left blade but for no special reason other than a better
view of the cut.

Max

In article , Swingman wrote:
On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. [...]
I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.
I own four.

~ A cordless DeWalt, which has it narrow uses, but narrow is the
operative word and not a "go to" tool.

Pretty much what I'd figured to be the case with most cordless circ saws.

~ A Makita 5007NB which is one of the best circular saws I've ever
owned, and the one I'd carry with me to most jobs if I could only take
one, and for your above purposes. Light, easy to wield, and has enough
power for all the above.

Would you happen to know the differences between the 5007NB and the 5007NK?

~ An older Skil77 worm drive, which, although I love it, is just too
much saw too be carrying around unless you're a framer on the joist crew.

~ and of course, the Festool TS75, which is a damn fine cabinet circular
saw, but not practical in price or function for most of your needs above.

FWIW, I'd still buy the Makita again if I lost it.

You're sure to get lots of advice on this one ...

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that
died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20
years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to
include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas:
a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not
been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded
that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do
actually exist; and
b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had
the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like
"gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just
don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw
simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to
having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain
them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm
right-handed.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just
keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade
and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make
me opt for a blade right next time.
Art

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:57:57 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

I own four.

~ A cordless DeWalt, which has it narrow uses, but narrow is the
operative word and not a "go to" tool.

Agreed. I have the DeWalt, which is a useful tool but it's not an only
circular saw by any means. I also have an older Makita cordless that's good
for cedar clapboards, but that's about it.

~ A Makita 5007NB which is one of the best circular saws I've ever
owned, and the one I'd carry with me to most jobs if I could only take
one, and for your above purposes. Light, easy to wield, and has enough
power for all the above.

I like my Bosch CS10, too. Nice saw.

~ An older Skil77 worm drive, which, although I love it, is just too
much saw too be carrying around unless you're a framer on the joist crew.

I'd rather carry a SCMS around. ;-)

~ and of course, the Festool TS75, which is a damn fine cabinet circular
saw, but not practical in price or function for most of your needs above.

I have a TS55. While I like it for paneling and plywood, it certainly doesn't
have much power. It'll bog down on 3/4" hardwood ply, even. I tried to cut a
2x with it (it was out and my other saws weren't). One cut was fine but I
wouldn't want to have to do too many. Is it normal for a Festool to be so
under-powered?

FWIW, I'd still buy the Makita again if I lost it.

Same with my Bosch.

You're sure to get lots of advice on this one ...

One thing I made sure of is the cast shoe. I had a stamped one on my previous
saw. Any little bump would whack it out of alignment.

"Doug Miller" wrote:

My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday.
-----------------------------------
Got an 18VDC circular saw as part of a kit.

15 years and a couple of batteries later, that saw doesn't owe me
anything.

Primary use was to break down sheet goods and trim 2x4s.

Built a boat with it.

I'll never have another corded saw.

Lew

Doug Miller wrote:
In
Would you happen to know the differences between the 5007NB and the 5007NK?

Looks like the NK has a 15A motor versus a 13A for the NB. The NB was much
more expensive when I bought it ten or twelve years ago then the NK is
today but I don't know how that speaks to quality. Sorry, just not that
familiar with the NK.

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 23:09:19 -0500, "
I have a TS55. While I like it for paneling and plywood, it certainly doesn't
have much power. It'll bog down on 3/4" hardwood ply, even. I tried to cut a
2x with it (it was out and my other saws weren't). One cut was fine but I
wouldn't want to have to do too many. Is it normal for a Festool to be so
under-powered?

No, it's not right to be underpowered. I've got a friend with a TS55
and he cuts veneered hardwood ply all the time and I've never seen it
bog down. Agreed, it's not near as powerful as the TS75, but you
shouldn't be having power problems cutting. Perhaps you should post
your problem in the Festool Owner's Group.

In article , Swingman wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In
Would you happen to know the differences between the 5007NB and the 5007NK?

Looks like the NK has a 15A motor versus a 13A for the NB. The NB was much
more expensive when I bought it ten or twelve years ago then the NK is
today but I don't know how that speaks to quality. Sorry, just not that
familiar with the NK.

Thanks, Karl.

On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that
died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20
years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to
include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

At one time PC had my eye but today If I were to buy another it would be
the Makita. I own a few Bosch tools but have never been impressed
enough to say I would buy them again, 2 routers and an impact driver.
Milwaukee also had my attention long before complaints about a drop in
quality. FWIW I am around construction sites on a pretty regular basis
and the Makita seems to be the favorite.



I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas:
a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not
been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded
that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do
actually exist; and

IMHO cordless is going to be good if you have no plan to ever use the
saw but it would be handy to have if that was all you had to make a cut.
Not saying that it cannot perform a task but it is never ever going to
be able to keep up with the cheapest of corded saws. I would never buy
one unless I had a specific need that required a cordless saw.


b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had
the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like
"gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just
don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw
simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to
having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain
them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm
right-handed.

It seems to be a forgotten thing but most saws have the blade on the
right side and were intended to be held with a right handers right hand.
Left sides saws were made available for the south paws. This all
evolved around safety and where you should be standing when operating
the saw. Typically the intent was that the saw body was between you and
the blade. This position also helps to keep a large amount of saw dust
from being thrown back at you. Safety aside the left sided models have
become more popular with right handers because they can see the blade
and the line they want to follow. That does not mean they are using the
correct saw, just that they want to see the spinning blade while it is
cutting. Every saw I have seen and or used has a cut line indicator on
the front of the shoe to give you that information. Once you have used
the saw enough and correctly and as you have indicated for you
personally you become comfortable and proficient with using the
indicator rather than watching the blade. I will never buy a left sides
saw, I am right handed. There are exception's some saws only come with
the left side blade, take the Skil 77 as an example.


I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

Well look closely at your choices as many top brand tools are being
manufactured in China these days.





TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

On 8/4/2011 11:09 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:57:57 -0500, wrote:

On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

I own four.

~ A cordless DeWalt, which has it narrow uses, but narrow is the
operative word and not a "go to" tool.

Agreed. I have the DeWalt, which is a useful tool but it's not an only
circular saw by any means. I also have an older Makita cordless that's good
for cedar clapboards, but that's about it.

~ A Makita 5007NB which is one of the best circular saws I've ever
owned, and the one I'd carry with me to most jobs if I could only take
one, and for your above purposes. Light, easy to wield, and has enough
power for all the above.

I like my Bosch CS10, too. Nice saw.

~ An older Skil77 worm drive, which, although I love it, is just too
much saw too be carrying around unless you're a framer on the joist crew.

I'd rather carry a SCMS around. ;-)

~ and of course, the Festool TS75, which is a damn fine cabinet circular
saw, but not practical in price or function for most of your needs above.

I have a TS55. While I like it for paneling and plywood, it certainly doesn't
have much power. It'll bog down on 3/4" hardwood ply, even. I tried to cut a
2x with it (it was out and my other saws weren't). One cut was fine but I
wouldn't want to have to do too many. Is it normal for a Festool to be so
under-powered?

Welllll there is the larger and more powerful TS75 and I have that one.
The TS 55 is a smaller saw for smaller demands. IIRC Swingman and I
were using either his or my TS75 for cutting 2 stacked 3/4" thick sheets
of plywood at the same time with no indication that the saw was being
stressed or bogged down.
Is your saw actually working correctly? IIRC both saws have the
electronic VS that is suppose to give it more juice when necessary. AND
are you using it with an extension cord that is not up to the task?

You mention hard wood plywood, are you talking about something like 3/4"
thick Baltic birch? I would think that a common 3/4" plywood should not
be problem with the TS 55. Give the Festool guys a call and tell them
what you are experiencing.

Concerning 2x material I am not even comfortable with cutting with my
TS75 with out using the track. Something about the plunge mechanism
with the saw sitting on a 2x4 does not seem natural to me yet. ;~)









FWIW, I'd still buy the Makita again if I lost it.

Same with my Bosch.

You're sure to get lots of advice on this one ...

One thing I made sure of is the cast shoe. I had a stamped one on my previous
saw. Any little bump would whack it out of alignment.

On 8/4/2011 10:38 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Doug wrote in message
...
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that
died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20
years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to
include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas:
a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not
been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded
that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do
actually exist; and
b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had
the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like
"gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just
don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw
simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to
having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain
them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm
right-handed.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just
keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade
and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make
me opt for a blade right next time.
Art


So you are right handed. ;~) Your left blade saw was originally
intended for lefty's that did not want to have saw dust thrown in their
face all the time.

On 8/4/2011 11:14 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote:

My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday.
-----------------------------------
Got an 18VDC circular saw as part of a kit.

15 years and a couple of batteries later, that saw doesn't owe me
anything.

Primary use was to break down sheet goods and trim 2x4s.

Built a boat with it.

I'll never have another corded saw.

Lew



How long did it take to build that boat Lew?

Doug Miller wrote the following:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that
died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20
years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to
include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas:
a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not
been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded
that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do
actually exist; and
b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had
the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like
"gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just
don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw
simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to
having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain
them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm
right-handed.



I have never had a left hand bladed C saw. First, I didn't know they
existed before some comments made in this, or some other home or
construction group.
I do have a very old Skilsaw wormdrive saw that belonged to my FiL, now
deceased. The saw has been languishing in a dark corner of my garage for
a decade.
It has some missing parts related to safety and I never used it or even
turned it on, besides, it is a monster and heavy. Looking at it just
now, I see it is left bladed.
I too am right handed, and I can see some benefit to having a saw with a
left handed blade, especially the "gives users the clearest line of
sight for easy, accurate cutting" part. Another I would think would be a
safety issue.
Holding a piece of wood steady, whether fenced or unfenced with the left
hand, then cutting on the other side of the right hand bladed saw
requires that your head is also on the right side of the saw to aim the
cut leaving the left hand in your peripheral vision and could be in the
way of the motor side as it saws. I like the idea that the holding,
aiming, and cutting, is on the same side of the saw. I guess left handed
people already are doing this with the right handed blade saws.
Why are most, if not all, radial arm saws left bladed?
Just my opinion, YMMV.

..

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.



--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

"Leon" wrote:

How long did it take to build that boat Lew?
-------------------------
18+ years to get the hull, deck, bulkheads and floors.

Still had another 5 years to trim out when I walked away.

Lew


http://sites.google.com/site/lewssailboat/

On 8/5/2011 10:17 AM, willshak wrote:
Doug Miller wrote the following:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday.
Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows
half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts
are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's
time to buy a new one.
My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting
sheet goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one
that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted
nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is
large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas:
a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws
have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing
to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery
in five seconds do actually exist; and
b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used
has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws
includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for
easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any
different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's
what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the
blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them
to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm
right-handed.


I have never had a left hand bladed C saw. First, I didn't know they
existed before some comments made in this, or some other home or
construction group.
I do have a very old Skilsaw wormdrive saw that belonged to my FiL, now
deceased. The saw has been languishing in a dark corner of my garage for
a decade.
It has some missing parts related to safety and I never used it or even
turned it on, besides, it is a monster and heavy. Looking at it just
now, I see it is left bladed.
I too am right handed, and I can see some benefit to having a saw with a
left handed blade, especially the "gives users the clearest line of
sight for easy, accurate cutting" part. Another I would think would be a
safety issue.
Holding a piece of wood steady, whether fenced or unfenced with the left
hand, then cutting on the other side of the right hand bladed saw
requires that your head is also on the right side of the saw to aim the
cut leaving the left hand in your peripheral vision and could be in the
way of the motor side as it saws. I like the idea that the holding,
aiming, and cutting, is on the same side of the saw. I guess left handed
people already are doing this with the right handed blade saws.
Why are most, if not all, radial arm saws left bladed?
Just my opinion, YMMV.

It "sounds" logical and like a good idea, it is not. Most all power
tools come with some kind of warning to not bend over or align you eyes
directly with the cutting edge of the blade. bit, what ever. The
"common" circular saw is not a precision tool. Although skilled and
long time users can do wonders with circular saw it is a developed
skill. The intent by the manufacturer is for you use the alignment mark
at the front of the shoe to line up your saw and then start the saw and
make the cut with your head and eyes on the opposite side of the blade.
Yes your cut is probably not going to be square or a straight line.
This is a free hand tool and practice makes perfect.

The RAS is a different set up altogether. While a circular saw's blade
rotation directs the debris back behind the saw, in your direction, the
RAS directs the debris away from the operator. Same with miter saws.
That said when ripping with a RAS the debris comes back at the operator
however the guard should be rotated down on the back side of the blade
to divert the debris, and prevent kickback providing you are using the
splitter and anti kick back pawls.




.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models
both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China
if at all possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold
homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

On 8/5/2011 1:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Leon" wrote:

How long did it take to build that boat Lew?
-------------------------
18+ years to get the hull, deck, bulkheads and floors.

Still had another 5 years to trim out when I walked away.

Lew


http://sites.google.com/site/lewssailboat/




Have seen the picture before and again, Lovely project Lew!

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...

I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just
keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade
and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make
me opt for a blade right next time.
Art


So you are right handed. ;~) Your left blade saw was originally
intended for lefty's that did not want to have saw dust thrown in their
face all the time.

Yes, I'm a righty.
At the time of purchase the "seeing the cut line" argument seemed rational.
Now a track saw with a fully enclosed blade seems to be the rational
choice for sheet goods.
Art

On 8/5/2011 2:48 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Leon"lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...

I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just
keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade
and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make
me opt for a blade right next time.
Art


So you are right handed. ;~) Your left blade saw was originally
intended for lefty's that did not want to have saw dust thrown in their
face all the time.

Yes, I'm a righty.
At the time of purchase the "seeing the cut line" argument seemed rational.
Now a track saw with a fully enclosed blade seems to be the rational
choice for sheet goods.
Art

Oh hell yeah! The track saw coupled with a vac means you have to look
for saw dust after ripping a sheet of plywood. Not to mention you only
align the saw up on top of the track, no guess work as to where the saw
is going to cut once the track is placed.

It works good at turning s2s lumber into s2s1e also, faster than using a
jointer on long pieces.

In article om,
Lew Hodgett wrote:

"Leon" wrote:

How long did it take to build that boat Lew?
-------------------------
18+ years to get the hull, deck, bulkheads and floors.

Still had another 5 years to trim out when I walked away.

Lew


http://sites.google.com/site/lewssailboat/





How long would it have taken if you didn't have to wait for the batteries
to charge?


--
Make it as simple as possible, but not simpler. (Albert Einstein)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 08:10:42 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 8/4/2011 11:09 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:57:57 -0500, wrote:

On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

I own four.

~ A cordless DeWalt, which has it narrow uses, but narrow is the
operative word and not a "go to" tool.

Agreed. I have the DeWalt, which is a useful tool but it's not an only
circular saw by any means. I also have an older Makita cordless that's good
for cedar clapboards, but that's about it.

~ A Makita 5007NB which is one of the best circular saws I've ever
owned, and the one I'd carry with me to most jobs if I could only take
one, and for your above purposes. Light, easy to wield, and has enough
power for all the above.

I like my Bosch CS10, too. Nice saw.

~ An older Skil77 worm drive, which, although I love it, is just too
much saw too be carrying around unless you're a framer on the joist crew.

I'd rather carry a SCMS around. ;-)

~ and of course, the Festool TS75, which is a damn fine cabinet circular
saw, but not practical in price or function for most of your needs above.

I have a TS55. While I like it for paneling and plywood, it certainly doesn't
have much power. It'll bog down on 3/4" hardwood ply, even. I tried to cut a
2x with it (it was out and my other saws weren't). One cut was fine but I
wouldn't want to have to do too many. Is it normal for a Festool to be so
under-powered?

Welllll there is the larger and more powerful TS75 and I have that one.

I bought it to cut sheets down to size. I'm not a pro and don't do multiple
sheets at a time, so didn't think I needed the TS75.

The TS 55 is a smaller saw for smaller demands. IIRC Swingman and I
were using either his or my TS75 for cutting 2 stacked 3/4" thick sheets
of plywood at the same time with no indication that the saw was being
stressed or bogged down.
Is your saw actually working correctly? IIRC both saws have the
electronic VS that is suppose to give it more juice when necessary. AND
are you using it with an extension cord that is not up to the task?

AFAIC, the electronics VS is useless. It doesn't have enough power to use it
other than flat-out. Don't get me wrong, I love the way it cuts, I just
expected a lot more power from an expensive tool.

You mention hard wood plywood, are you talking about something like 3/4"
thick Baltic birch? I would think that a common 3/4" plywood should not
be problem with the TS 55. Give the Festool guys a call and tell them
what you are experiencing.

Nothing fancy, 3/4" (23/32") Oak/Birch veneer ply; Lowes style. It cuts it,
but not like I expect. I don't expect the RPM to vary at all.

Concerning 2x material I am not even comfortable with cutting with my
TS75 with out using the track. Something about the plunge mechanism
with the saw sitting on a 2x4 does not seem natural to me yet. ;~)


I understand. ;-) I had a scrap to cut and just didn't want to get out the
other saw. It barely made it through the 2x.

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 05:29:23 -0400, Dave wrote:

On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 23:09:19 -0500, "
I have a TS55. While I like it for paneling and plywood, it certainly doesn't
have much power. It'll bog down on 3/4" hardwood ply, even. I tried to cut a
2x with it (it was out and my other saws weren't). One cut was fine but I
wouldn't want to have to do too many. Is it normal for a Festool to be so
under-powered?

No, it's not right to be underpowered. I've got a friend with a TS55
and he cuts veneered hardwood ply all the time and I've never seen it
bog down. Agreed, it's not near as powerful as the TS75, but you
shouldn't be having power problems cutting.

Thanks. See my reply to Leon. It cuts but with no "authority" at all. It's
like it's not cutting straight, but it can't be since it's on the track.

Perhaps you should post
your problem in the Festool Owner's Group.

Good idea. Thanks! I was considering getting one of the stores to demo a new
one. Highland has a setup that looks like it's used frequently. Next time
I'm up there...

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 14:38:44 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 8/5/2011 10:17 AM, willshak wrote:
Doug Miller wrote the following:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday.
Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows
half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts
are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's
time to buy a new one.
My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting
sheet goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one
that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted
nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is
large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas:
a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws
have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing
to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery
in five seconds do actually exist; and
b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used
has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws
includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for
easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any
different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's
what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the
blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them
to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm
right-handed.


I have never had a left hand bladed C saw. First, I didn't know they
existed before some comments made in this, or some other home or
construction group.
I do have a very old Skilsaw wormdrive saw that belonged to my FiL, now
deceased. The saw has been languishing in a dark corner of my garage for
a decade.
It has some missing parts related to safety and I never used it or even
turned it on, besides, it is a monster and heavy. Looking at it just
now, I see it is left bladed.
I too am right handed, and I can see some benefit to having a saw with a
left handed blade, especially the "gives users the clearest line of
sight for easy, accurate cutting" part. Another I would think would be a
safety issue.
Holding a piece of wood steady, whether fenced or unfenced with the left
hand, then cutting on the other side of the right hand bladed saw
requires that your head is also on the right side of the saw to aim the
cut leaving the left hand in your peripheral vision and could be in the
way of the motor side as it saws. I like the idea that the holding,
aiming, and cutting, is on the same side of the saw. I guess left handed
people already are doing this with the right handed blade saws.
Why are most, if not all, radial arm saws left bladed?
Just my opinion, YMMV.

It "sounds" logical and like a good idea, it is not. Most all power
tools come with some kind of warning to not bend over or align you eyes
directly with the cutting edge of the blade. bit, what ever. The
"common" circular saw is not a precision tool. Although skilled and
long time users can do wonders with circular saw it is a developed
skill. The intent by the manufacturer is for you use the alignment mark
at the front of the shoe to line up your saw and then start the saw and
make the cut with your head and eyes on the opposite side of the blade.
Yes your cut is probably not going to be square or a straight line.
This is a free hand tool and practice makes perfect.

The RAS is a different set up altogether. While a circular saw's blade
rotation directs the debris back behind the saw, in your direction, the
RAS directs the debris away from the operator. Same with miter saws.
That said when ripping with a RAS the debris comes back at the operator
however the guard should be rotated down on the back side of the blade
to divert the debris, and prevent kickback providing you are using the
splitter and anti kick back pawls.

The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

...

On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

...

Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard?

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

After several cheaper B&D circ saws I purchased a Porter Cable unit about
ten years ago. It has seen a lot of hard use in that time and still going
strong.

It has about a 10' rubber very flexible cord that hardly ever tangles,
although heavier than I was used to it is very balanced and I can actually
freeform cut straight with it!
It has a blade to guide setback of exactly 1.5"...nice for cutting to fence.
Very little vibration = good bearings
Good chip direction via the 1" chip chute on top
I am very impressed as well as people borrowing it.

I have never used another quality circ saw to compare with this.

--------------

"Doug Miller" wrote in message ...
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday.
Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen
segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer
available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new
one.

My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet
goods to manageable size.

I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that
died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20
years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to
include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool.

I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas:
a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have
not
been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded
that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do
actually exist; and
b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has
had
the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases
like
"gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I
just
don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade
saw
simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to
having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain
them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm
right-handed.

I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both
to
seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all
possible.

TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew
or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis.

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 20:07:30 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

...

Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard?

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

Didn't know about the new guard and table. I'll look into it but how does a
guard cover the entire blade? I knew about the $100 for the return of the
motor but even though I haven't used the thing in 15 years, it's worth more to
me than the $100. ;-)

On 8/5/11 10:27 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 20:07:30 -0500, wrote:

On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

...

Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard?

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

Didn't know about the new guard and table. I'll look into it but how does a
guard cover the entire blade?


http://tedwiebe.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/dsc_00021.jpg


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 8/5/2011 10:27 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 20:07:30 -0500, wrote:

On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

...

Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard?

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

Didn't know about the new guard and table. I'll look into it but how does a
guard cover the entire blade? I knew about the $100 for the return of the
motor but even though I haven't used the thing in 15 years, it's worth more to
me than the $100. ;-)

Go for it. Mike turned me onto this recall notice too, and I'm glad I followed
up on it. If your saw qualifies, all you gotta do is fill out a form and an
impressive box of goodies shows up on your doorstep. The brand new table board
itself is worth the effort it takes to apply for the recall.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 8/5/11 11:04 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
Go for it. Mike turned me on....


Perv.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 22:38:40 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 8/5/11 10:27 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 20:07:30 -0500, wrote:

On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

...

Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard?

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

Didn't know about the new guard and table. I'll look into it but how does a
guard cover the entire blade?


http://tedwiebe.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/dsc_00021.jpg

Thanks, but it looks backwards. Doesn't the front-bottom of the guard catch
on the wood/fence when it's pulled across it? It also looks like the hinges
are backwards, or set up to cut on the push.

On 8/5/11 11:43 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 22:38:40 -0500, wrote:

On 8/5/11 10:27 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 20:07:30 -0500, wrote:

On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

...

Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard?

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

Didn't know about the new guard and table. I'll look into it but how does a
guard cover the entire blade?


http://tedwiebe.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/dsc_00021.jpg

Thanks, but it looks backwards. Doesn't the front-bottom of the guard catch
on the wood/fence when it's pulled across it? It also looks like the hinges
are backwards, or set up to cut on the push.

No, it's doesn't catch. I guess if your fence is higher than normal, it
may, but there's also a lift on the handle, to lift it for whatever
reason, including that.

As for the hinges, remember that a RAS also rips. Most guys don't do
this and think it's dangerous. I've ripped a lot with mine and it's no
more dangerous than on a table saw, when done correctly.

FWIW, when end cutting narrow stock, I often pull the saw out, set my
board, then cut on the push stroke to avoid that forward push sensation
of a RAS. I also use a blade with a negative hook angle to lessen that.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 8/5/2011 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 08:10:42 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:


Welllll there is the larger and more powerful TS75 and I have that one.

I bought it to cut sheets down to size. I'm not a pro and don't do multiple
sheets at a time, so didn't think I needed the TS75.

Well I generally don't cut stacked sheets either but we did on that
occasion. I was strongly considering the TS55 over the TS75 but knew
that I was going to end up with both the 75 &55 inch tracks sooner than
later. As you know, the 75 comes with the TS75, the 55 comes with the
TS55. I determined that that buying the TS75 which came with the 75
track and buying the 55 track alone, there much less of a total price
difference then buying the other way around. So for me the ultimate
price difference, purchased the way I did, closed the price gap
considerably and I knew the extra power and capacity would one day be an
advantage. All things being equal I'd probably have gone with the TS55.




The TS 55 is a smaller saw for smaller demands. IIRC Swingman and I
were using either his or my TS75 for cutting 2 stacked 3/4" thick sheets
of plywood at the same time with no indication that the saw was being
stressed or bogged down.
Is your saw actually working correctly? IIRC both saws have the
electronic VS that is suppose to give it more juice when necessary. AND
are you using it with an extension cord that is not up to the task?

AFAIC, the electronics VS is useless. It doesn't have enough power to use it
other than flat-out. Don't get me wrong, I love the way it cuts, I just
expected a lot more power from an expensive tool.

Even on the TS75 I use it at full speed so I could not attest to the
effectiveness of the EVS. I do know that the EVS works really well on
my Rotex125. Regardless of the speed setting coupled with different
grit papers and or pressure applied the motor does not ever seem to
deviate in speed.


You mention hard wood plywood, are you talking about something like 3/4"
thick Baltic birch? I would think that a common 3/4" plywood should not
be problem with the TS 55. Give the Festool guys a call and tell them
what you are experiencing.

Nothing fancy, 3/4" (23/32") Oak/Birch veneer ply; Lowes style. It cuts it,
but not like I expect. I don't expect the RPM to vary at all.

I would certainly think that whould not be a challenge. I would
certainly confirm my suppositions directly with the Festool company
reps. They are pretty darn eager to help, they have a reputation to
uphold. :-) You should be very satisfied with your purchase.

On 8/5/2011 12:48 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Leon"lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...

I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just
keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade
and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make
me opt for a blade right next time.
Art


So you are right handed. ;~) Your left blade saw was originally
intended for lefty's that did not want to have saw dust thrown in their
face all the time.

Yes, I'm a righty.
At the time of purchase the "seeing the cut line" argument seemed rational.
Now a track saw with a fully enclosed blade seems to be the rational
choice for sheet goods.
Art



....it definitely is. That said, I still use my Skilsaw 77 quite a bit
for heavy work in the field...just never needed anything else. The
weight is helpful in many situations, power is spectacular, and I don't
mind getting sawdust blown back in my face...or maybe I just haven't
noticed...or I've put my face in the position necessary to avoid it. ;9

cg

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 08:58:14 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 8/5/2011 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 08:10:42 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:


Welllll there is the larger and more powerful TS75 and I have that one.

I bought it to cut sheets down to size. I'm not a pro and don't do multiple
sheets at a time, so didn't think I needed the TS75.

Well I generally don't cut stacked sheets either but we did on that
occasion. I was strongly considering the TS55 over the TS75 but knew
that I was going to end up with both the 75 &55 inch tracks sooner than
later. As you know, the 75 comes with the TS75, the 55 comes with the
TS55. I determined that that buying the TS75 which came with the 75
track and buying the 55 track alone, there much less of a total price
difference then buying the other way around. So for me the ultimate
price difference, purchased the way I did, closed the price gap
considerably and I knew the extra power and capacity would one day be an
advantage. All things being equal I'd probably have gone with the TS55.

I considered that angle. I bought the thing last(?) summer when Festool had
the "big" sale. I didn't know if I would use the 75" rail (but I want the
106"). I now wish I had the 75". The 55" rail is just a little short for a
4' cut. In the end, it was weight that really tipped me over the edge.

The TS 55 is a smaller saw for smaller demands. IIRC Swingman and I
were using either his or my TS75 for cutting 2 stacked 3/4" thick sheets
of plywood at the same time with no indication that the saw was being
stressed or bogged down.
Is your saw actually working correctly? IIRC both saws have the
electronic VS that is suppose to give it more juice when necessary. AND
are you using it with an extension cord that is not up to the task?

AFAIC, the electronics VS is useless. It doesn't have enough power to use it
other than flat-out. Don't get me wrong, I love the way it cuts, I just
expected a lot more power from an expensive tool.

Even on the TS75 I use it at full speed so I could not attest to the
effectiveness of the EVS. I do know that the EVS works really well on
my Rotex125. Regardless of the speed setting coupled with different
grit papers and or pressure applied the motor does not ever seem to
deviate in speed.

Thinking about it last night, I think I'll put a current/power meter on it and
see if it's really taking all the power it should be when loaded.

You mention hard wood plywood, are you talking about something like 3/4"
thick Baltic birch? I would think that a common 3/4" plywood should not
be problem with the TS 55. Give the Festool guys a call and tell them
what you are experiencing.

Nothing fancy, 3/4" (23/32") Oak/Birch veneer ply; Lowes style. It cuts it,
but not like I expect. I don't expect the RPM to vary at all.

I would certainly think that whould not be a challenge. I would
certainly confirm my suppositions directly with the Festool company
reps. They are pretty darn eager to help, they have a reputation to
uphold. :-) You should be very satisfied with your purchase.

I don't know if "challenge" is the right word. It cuts but it will bog down
if I put any pressure on it. It cuts a lot slower than I expected. I'll
contact Festool. Thanks for the information.

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 22:27:31 -0500, "
wrote:

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 20:07:30 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

...

Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard?

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

Didn't know about the new guard and table. I'll look into it but how does a
guard cover the entire blade? I knew about the $100 for the return of the
motor but even though I haven't used the thing in 15 years, it's worth more to
me than the $100. ;-)


My RAS must be the same as yours. It also is the one the one they offer $100
for the motor. Like you, it is worth more than that to me. If I got rid of it,
I'd have to spend $600+ to buy a SCMS to replace it. I use mine a lot more
frequently than you do. ;^)

I could live without it, but it sure can be convenient to have along with the TS
at times. I also have a couple muscle powered miter setups, but don't use those
too often.

Regards,
Roy

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:26:09 -0500, Roy wrote:

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 22:27:31 -0500, "
wrote:

On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 20:07:30 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the
board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of
the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust.

...

Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard?

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

Didn't know about the new guard and table. I'll look into it but how does a
guard cover the entire blade? I knew about the $100 for the return of the
motor but even though I haven't used the thing in 15 years, it's worth more to
me than the $100. ;-)


My RAS must be the same as yours. It also is the one the one they offer $100
for the motor. Like you, it is worth more than that to me. If I got rid of it,
I'd have to spend $600+ to buy a SCMS to replace it. I use mine a lot more
frequently than you do. ;^)

Well, I also have the $600 SCMS (before that, a $100 HF). ;-) I'll plug the
model number into the site -MIKE- linked and see. I'll take the freebie, if
offered. ;-)

I could live without it, but it sure can be convenient to have along with the TS
at times. I also have a couple muscle powered miter setups, but don't use those
too often.

I'll set it up again when I get my shop finished. Though it'll probably be
another year before I get it completely done, I should be able to start moving
a few tools in later this fall. I don't care what Swing and Leon say, it's
too damned hot to work out there this time of year. ;-) It probably averages
a humid 140 during the day. :-(

On 8/5/2011 11:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/5/11 11:04 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
Go for it. Mike turned me on....


Perv.

Tease.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 8/6/11 1:40 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 8/5/2011 11:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/5/11 11:04 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
Go for it. Mike turned me on....


Perv.

Tease.


Bitch.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply