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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something
went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
In article , Doug Miller
wrote: I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. I have a Milwaukee, corded, about 7 years old. It's a great saw. Never had a problem with it bogging or wandering and I am not a gentle man with my power tools. For any serious use, I don't see how a cordless can compete. You'd need at least three, maybe four batteries in constant rotation. Much easier, and cheaper, to run an extension cord. |
#3
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Circular saw recommendations?
"For any serious use, I don't see how a cordless can compete."
Second that! I got one from Sears in the C-3 series 19.2 Volt. Cross cutting trim - no problem, Riping - No Way. Cutting any distance in three quarter inch material - No Way. The damned thing lies to wander. Great little trim saw (emphasis on "little," but not much more than a toy - albeit too sharp to give to a little kid! Two more cents |
#4
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Circular saw recommendations?
Climbing on the roof to cut that vent into the attic. That's the biggest
thing I see for those things. ------------ "Hoosierpopi" wrote in message ... "For any serious use, I don't see how a cordless can compete." Second that! I got one from Sears in the C-3 series 19.2 Volt. Cross cutting trim - no problem, Riping - No Way. Cutting any distance in three quarter inch material - No Way. The damned thing lies to wander. Great little trim saw (emphasis on "little," but not much more than a toy - albeit too sharp to give to a little kid! Two more cents |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. I own four. ~ A cordless DeWalt, which has it narrow uses, but narrow is the operative word and not a "go to" tool. ~ A Makita 5007NB which is one of the best circular saws I've ever owned, and the one I'd carry with me to most jobs if I could only take one, and for your above purposes. Light, easy to wield, and has enough power for all the above. ~ An older Skil77 worm drive, which, although I love it, is just too much saw too be carrying around unless you're a framer on the joist crew. ~ and of course, the Festool TS75, which is a damn fine cabinet circular saw, but not practical in price or function for most of your needs above. FWIW, I'd still buy the Makita again if I lost it. You're sure to get lots of advice on this one ... -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#6
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Circular saw recommendations?
In article , Swingman wrote:
On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote: My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. [...] I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. I own four. ~ A cordless DeWalt, which has it narrow uses, but narrow is the operative word and not a "go to" tool. Pretty much what I'd figured to be the case with most cordless circ saws. ~ A Makita 5007NB which is one of the best circular saws I've ever owned, and the one I'd carry with me to most jobs if I could only take one, and for your above purposes. Light, easy to wield, and has enough power for all the above. Would you happen to know the differences between the 5007NB and the 5007NK? ~ An older Skil77 worm drive, which, although I love it, is just too much saw too be carrying around unless you're a framer on the joist crew. ~ and of course, the Festool TS75, which is a damn fine cabinet circular saw, but not practical in price or function for most of your needs above. FWIW, I'd still buy the Makita again if I lost it. You're sure to get lots of advice on this one ... |
#7
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Circular saw recommendations?
Doug Miller wrote:
In Would you happen to know the differences between the 5007NB and the 5007NK? Looks like the NK has a 15A motor versus a 13A for the NB. The NB was much more expensive when I bought it ten or twelve years ago then the NK is today but I don't know how that speaks to quality. Sorry, just not that familiar with the NK. |
#8
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Circular saw recommendations?
In article , Swingman wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In Would you happen to know the differences between the 5007NB and the 5007NK? Looks like the NK has a 15A motor versus a 13A for the NB. The NB was much more expensive when I bought it ten or twelve years ago then the NK is today but I don't know how that speaks to quality. Sorry, just not that familiar with the NK. Thanks, Karl. |
#9
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Circular saw recommendations?
On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 21:57:57 -0500, Swingman wrote:
On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote: My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. I own four. ~ A cordless DeWalt, which has it narrow uses, but narrow is the operative word and not a "go to" tool. Agreed. I have the DeWalt, which is a useful tool but it's not an only circular saw by any means. I also have an older Makita cordless that's good for cedar clapboards, but that's about it. ~ A Makita 5007NB which is one of the best circular saws I've ever owned, and the one I'd carry with me to most jobs if I could only take one, and for your above purposes. Light, easy to wield, and has enough power for all the above. I like my Bosch CS10, too. Nice saw. ~ An older Skil77 worm drive, which, although I love it, is just too much saw too be carrying around unless you're a framer on the joist crew. I'd rather carry a SCMS around. ;-) ~ and of course, the Festool TS75, which is a damn fine cabinet circular saw, but not practical in price or function for most of your needs above. I have a TS55. While I like it for paneling and plywood, it certainly doesn't have much power. It'll bog down on 3/4" hardwood ply, even. I tried to cut a 2x with it (it was out and my other saws weren't). One cut was fine but I wouldn't want to have to do too many. Is it normal for a Festool to be so under-powered? FWIW, I'd still buy the Makita again if I lost it. Same with my Bosch. You're sure to get lots of advice on this one ... One thing I made sure of is the cast shoe. I had a stamped one on my previous saw. Any little bump would whack it out of alignment. |
#10
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Circular saw recommendations?
On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 23:09:19 -0500, "
I have a TS55. While I like it for paneling and plywood, it certainly doesn't have much power. It'll bog down on 3/4" hardwood ply, even. I tried to cut a 2x with it (it was out and my other saws weren't). One cut was fine but I wouldn't want to have to do too many. Is it normal for a Festool to be so under-powered? No, it's not right to be underpowered. I've got a friend with a TS55 and he cuts veneered hardwood ply all the time and I've never seen it bog down. Agreed, it's not near as powerful as the TS75, but you shouldn't be having power problems cutting. Perhaps you should post your problem in the Festool Owner's Group. |
#11
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Circular saw recommendations?
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 05:29:23 -0400, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 04 Aug 2011 23:09:19 -0500, " I have a TS55. While I like it for paneling and plywood, it certainly doesn't have much power. It'll bog down on 3/4" hardwood ply, even. I tried to cut a 2x with it (it was out and my other saws weren't). One cut was fine but I wouldn't want to have to do too many. Is it normal for a Festool to be so under-powered? No, it's not right to be underpowered. I've got a friend with a TS55 and he cuts veneered hardwood ply all the time and I've never seen it bog down. Agreed, it's not near as powerful as the TS75, but you shouldn't be having power problems cutting. Thanks. See my reply to Leon. It cuts but with no "authority" at all. It's like it's not cutting straight, but it can't be since it's on the track. Perhaps you should post your problem in the Festool Owner's Group. Good idea. Thanks! I was considering getting one of the stores to demo a new one. Highland has a setup that looks like it's used frequently. Next time I'm up there... |
#12
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Circular saw recommendations?
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#14
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Circular saw recommendations?
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#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
One thing I made sure of is the cast shoe. I had a stamped one on my
previous saw. Any little bump would whack it out of alignment. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- One thing I would add is the shoe mounting is as or more important as the shoe, I think. It is tough to knock it out of line because the mounting is so heavy. If you drop it off of the roof, all you do is straighten the shoe with a hammer and keep on rocking. The Milwaukee has the type of mount where you can tell exactly how much you are raising or lowering the blade. It also still cuts on the same place on shoe notch whether you have the saw on 0 degrees, 25 or 45 degrees. -- Jim in NC |
#16
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Circular saw recommendations?
On Sun, 7 Aug 2011 01:13:19 -0400, "Morgans" wrote:
One thing I made sure of is the cast shoe. I had a stamped one on my previous saw. Any little bump would whack it out of alignment. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- One thing I would add is the shoe mounting is as or more important as the shoe, I think. Agreed, but I consider that part of the shoe. It is tough to knock it out of line because the mounting is so heavy. If you drop it off of the roof, all you do is straighten the shoe with a hammer and keep on rocking. I don't intend to drop if off a roof, so I'd rather have a stiffer, more accurate shoe (and mounting). I rarely cut anything other than a 90degree cut, so that rigidity is what I looked for. There are so many circular saws to choose from. When buying a new one, think about how you're likely to use it. The Milwaukee has the type of mount where you can tell exactly how much you are raising or lowering the blade. It also still cuts on the same place on shoe notch whether you have the saw on 0 degrees, 25 or 45 degrees. The rear-pivot DeWalt DW364 has the depth gauge, too. It's pretty slick. |
#17
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Circular saw recommendations?
"Doug Miller" wrote
I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. Since you ruled out Festool: Milwaukee fan here. I also prefer the left blade but for no special reason other than a better view of the cut. Max |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
"Doug Miller" wrote in message ... My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make me opt for a blade right next time. Art |
#19
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Circular saw recommendations?
On 8/4/2011 10:38 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Doug wrote in message ... My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make me opt for a blade right next time. Art So you are right handed. ;~) Your left blade saw was originally intended for lefty's that did not want to have saw dust thrown in their face all the time. |
#20
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Circular saw recommendations?
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message ... I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make me opt for a blade right next time. Art So you are right handed. ;~) Your left blade saw was originally intended for lefty's that did not want to have saw dust thrown in their face all the time. Yes, I'm a righty. At the time of purchase the "seeing the cut line" argument seemed rational. Now a track saw with a fully enclosed blade seems to be the rational choice for sheet goods. Art |
#21
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Circular saw recommendations?
On 8/5/2011 2:48 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Leon"lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message ... I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make me opt for a blade right next time. Art So you are right handed. ;~) Your left blade saw was originally intended for lefty's that did not want to have saw dust thrown in their face all the time. Yes, I'm a righty. At the time of purchase the "seeing the cut line" argument seemed rational. Now a track saw with a fully enclosed blade seems to be the rational choice for sheet goods. Art Oh hell yeah! The track saw coupled with a vac means you have to look for saw dust after ripping a sheet of plywood. Not to mention you only align the saw up on top of the track, no guess work as to where the saw is going to cut once the track is placed. It works good at turning s2s lumber into s2s1e also, faster than using a jointer on long pieces. |
#22
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Circular saw recommendations?
On 8/5/2011 12:48 PM, Artemus wrote:
"Leon"lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message ... I have the PC743 (blade left) which I've used the hell out of and it just keeps on ticking. I think it's been discontinued though. Seeing the blade and the cut line is nice but the sawdust that gets thrown in my face will make me opt for a blade right next time. Art So you are right handed. ;~) Your left blade saw was originally intended for lefty's that did not want to have saw dust thrown in their face all the time. Yes, I'm a righty. At the time of purchase the "seeing the cut line" argument seemed rational. Now a track saw with a fully enclosed blade seems to be the rational choice for sheet goods. Art ....it definitely is. That said, I still use my Skilsaw 77 quite a bit for heavy work in the field...just never needed anything else. The weight is helpful in many situations, power is spectacular, and I don't mind getting sawdust blown back in my face...or maybe I just haven't noticed...or I've put my face in the position necessary to avoid it. ;9 cg |
#23
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Circular saw recommendations?
"Doug Miller" wrote: My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. ----------------------------------- Got an 18VDC circular saw as part of a kit. 15 years and a couple of batteries later, that saw doesn't owe me anything. Primary use was to break down sheet goods and trim 2x4s. Built a boat with it. I'll never have another corded saw. Lew |
#24
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Circular saw recommendations?
On 8/4/2011 11:14 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote: My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. ----------------------------------- Got an 18VDC circular saw as part of a kit. 15 years and a couple of batteries later, that saw doesn't owe me anything. Primary use was to break down sheet goods and trim 2x4s. Built a boat with it. I'll never have another corded saw. Lew How long did it take to build that boat Lew? |
#25
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Circular saw recommendations?
"Leon" wrote: How long did it take to build that boat Lew? ------------------------- 18+ years to get the hull, deck, bulkheads and floors. Still had another 5 years to trim out when I walked away. Lew http://sites.google.com/site/lewssailboat/ |
#26
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Circular saw recommendations?
On 8/5/2011 1:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Leon" wrote: How long did it take to build that boat Lew? ------------------------- 18+ years to get the hull, deck, bulkheads and floors. Still had another 5 years to trim out when I walked away. Lew http://sites.google.com/site/lewssailboat/ Have seen the picture before and again, Lovely project Lew! |
#27
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Circular saw recommendations?
In article om,
Lew Hodgett wrote: "Leon" wrote: How long did it take to build that boat Lew? ------------------------- 18+ years to get the hull, deck, bulkheads and floors. Still had another 5 years to trim out when I walked away. Lew http://sites.google.com/site/lewssailboat/ How long would it have taken if you didn't have to wait for the batteries to charge? -- Make it as simple as possible, but not simpler. (Albert Einstein) Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org |
#28
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Circular saw recommendations?
On 8/4/2011 9:36 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. At one time PC had my eye but today If I were to buy another it would be the Makita. I own a few Bosch tools but have never been impressed enough to say I would buy them again, 2 routers and an impact driver. Milwaukee also had my attention long before complaints about a drop in quality. FWIW I am around construction sites on a pretty regular basis and the Makita seems to be the favorite. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and IMHO cordless is going to be good if you have no plan to ever use the saw but it would be handy to have if that was all you had to make a cut. Not saying that it cannot perform a task but it is never ever going to be able to keep up with the cheapest of corded saws. I would never buy one unless I had a specific need that required a cordless saw. b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. It seems to be a forgotten thing but most saws have the blade on the right side and were intended to be held with a right handers right hand. Left sides saws were made available for the south paws. This all evolved around safety and where you should be standing when operating the saw. Typically the intent was that the saw body was between you and the blade. This position also helps to keep a large amount of saw dust from being thrown back at you. Safety aside the left sided models have become more popular with right handers because they can see the blade and the line they want to follow. That does not mean they are using the correct saw, just that they want to see the spinning blade while it is cutting. Every saw I have seen and or used has a cut line indicator on the front of the shoe to give you that information. Once you have used the saw enough and correctly and as you have indicated for you personally you become comfortable and proficient with using the indicator rather than watching the blade. I will never buy a left sides saw, I am right handed. There are exception's some saws only come with the left side blade, take the Skil 77 as an example. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. Well look closely at your choices as many top brand tools are being manufactured in China these days. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. |
#29
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Circular saw recommendations?
Doug Miller wrote the following:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I have never had a left hand bladed C saw. First, I didn't know they existed before some comments made in this, or some other home or construction group. I do have a very old Skilsaw wormdrive saw that belonged to my FiL, now deceased. The saw has been languishing in a dark corner of my garage for a decade. It has some missing parts related to safety and I never used it or even turned it on, besides, it is a monster and heavy. Looking at it just now, I see it is left bladed. I too am right handed, and I can see some benefit to having a saw with a left handed blade, especially the "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" part. Another I would think would be a safety issue. Holding a piece of wood steady, whether fenced or unfenced with the left hand, then cutting on the other side of the right hand bladed saw requires that your head is also on the right side of the saw to aim the cut leaving the left hand in your peripheral vision and could be in the way of the motor side as it saws. I like the idea that the holding, aiming, and cutting, is on the same side of the saw. I guess left handed people already are doing this with the right handed blade saws. Why are most, if not all, radial arm saws left bladed? Just my opinion, YMMV. .. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. -- Bill In Hamptonburgh, NY In the original Orange County. Est. 1683 To email, remove the double zeroes after @ |
#30
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Circular saw recommendations?
On 8/5/2011 10:17 AM, willshak wrote:
Doug Miller wrote the following: My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I have never had a left hand bladed C saw. First, I didn't know they existed before some comments made in this, or some other home or construction group. I do have a very old Skilsaw wormdrive saw that belonged to my FiL, now deceased. The saw has been languishing in a dark corner of my garage for a decade. It has some missing parts related to safety and I never used it or even turned it on, besides, it is a monster and heavy. Looking at it just now, I see it is left bladed. I too am right handed, and I can see some benefit to having a saw with a left handed blade, especially the "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" part. Another I would think would be a safety issue. Holding a piece of wood steady, whether fenced or unfenced with the left hand, then cutting on the other side of the right hand bladed saw requires that your head is also on the right side of the saw to aim the cut leaving the left hand in your peripheral vision and could be in the way of the motor side as it saws. I like the idea that the holding, aiming, and cutting, is on the same side of the saw. I guess left handed people already are doing this with the right handed blade saws. Why are most, if not all, radial arm saws left bladed? Just my opinion, YMMV. It "sounds" logical and like a good idea, it is not. Most all power tools come with some kind of warning to not bend over or align you eyes directly with the cutting edge of the blade. bit, what ever. The "common" circular saw is not a precision tool. Although skilled and long time users can do wonders with circular saw it is a developed skill. The intent by the manufacturer is for you use the alignment mark at the front of the shoe to line up your saw and then start the saw and make the cut with your head and eyes on the opposite side of the blade. Yes your cut is probably not going to be square or a straight line. This is a free hand tool and practice makes perfect. The RAS is a different set up altogether. While a circular saw's blade rotation directs the debris back behind the saw, in your direction, the RAS directs the debris away from the operator. Same with miter saws. That said when ripping with a RAS the debris comes back at the operator however the guard should be rotated down on the back side of the blade to divert the debris, and prevent kickback providing you are using the splitter and anti kick back pawls. . I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 14:38:44 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 8/5/2011 10:17 AM, willshak wrote: Doug Miller wrote the following: My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I have never had a left hand bladed C saw. First, I didn't know they existed before some comments made in this, or some other home or construction group. I do have a very old Skilsaw wormdrive saw that belonged to my FiL, now deceased. The saw has been languishing in a dark corner of my garage for a decade. It has some missing parts related to safety and I never used it or even turned it on, besides, it is a monster and heavy. Looking at it just now, I see it is left bladed. I too am right handed, and I can see some benefit to having a saw with a left handed blade, especially the "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" part. Another I would think would be a safety issue. Holding a piece of wood steady, whether fenced or unfenced with the left hand, then cutting on the other side of the right hand bladed saw requires that your head is also on the right side of the saw to aim the cut leaving the left hand in your peripheral vision and could be in the way of the motor side as it saws. I like the idea that the holding, aiming, and cutting, is on the same side of the saw. I guess left handed people already are doing this with the right handed blade saws. Why are most, if not all, radial arm saws left bladed? Just my opinion, YMMV. It "sounds" logical and like a good idea, it is not. Most all power tools come with some kind of warning to not bend over or align you eyes directly with the cutting edge of the blade. bit, what ever. The "common" circular saw is not a precision tool. Although skilled and long time users can do wonders with circular saw it is a developed skill. The intent by the manufacturer is for you use the alignment mark at the front of the shoe to line up your saw and then start the saw and make the cut with your head and eyes on the opposite side of the blade. Yes your cut is probably not going to be square or a straight line. This is a free hand tool and practice makes perfect. The RAS is a different set up altogether. While a circular saw's blade rotation directs the debris back behind the saw, in your direction, the RAS directs the debris away from the operator. Same with miter saws. That said when ripping with a RAS the debris comes back at the operator however the guard should be rotated down on the back side of the blade to divert the debris, and prevent kickback providing you are using the splitter and anti kick back pawls. The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust. ... |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust. ... Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard? http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/ -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
On Fri, 05 Aug 2011 20:07:30 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote: The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust. ... Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard? http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/ Didn't know about the new guard and table. I'll look into it but how does a guard cover the entire blade? I knew about the $100 for the return of the motor but even though I haven't used the thing in 15 years, it's worth more to me than the $100. ;-) |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
-MIKE- wrote the following:
On 8/5/11 7:42 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote: The guard on my old (30 years) crapsman rotates to the front to hold down the board against kickback. The pawls and splitter rotate down from the rear of the guard. The guard doesn't do squat for flying sawdust. ... Did you look into getting the free replacement table and guard? http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/ I got the replacement table and guard for the Craftsman years ago. It's still in the box it came in, sitting next to the RAS. -- Bill In Hamptonburgh, NY In the original Orange County. Est. 1683 To email, remove the double zeroes after @ |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
After several cheaper B&D circ saws I purchased a Porter Cable unit about
ten years ago. It has seen a lot of hard use in that time and still going strong. It has about a 10' rubber very flexible cord that hardly ever tangles, although heavier than I was used to it is very balanced and I can actually freeform cut straight with it! It has a blade to guide setback of exactly 1.5"...nice for cutting to fence. Very little vibration = good bearings Good chip direction via the 1" chip chute on top I am very impressed as well as people borrowing it. I have never used another quality circ saw to compare with this. -------------- "Doug Miller" wrote in message ... My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Circular saw recommendations?
"Doug Miller" wrote in message ...
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have had a standard right blade Milwaukee on the job for just about every work day since 1982. I have never done anything to it but replace switches and cords. Not even ever re-greased the gearbox. You have my recommendation. It is probably the heaviest saw, but the toughest, and has the best torque for ripping of any I have used. Oh, this is for a corded model. -- Jim in NC |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Ultimate Circular saw recommendations?
Doug Miller wrote:
My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. ----------- Judging from the replies, everybody pretty much likes what they have. Therefore, one conclusion is get the saw that has the most attractive paint job - you'll get used to it. |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Ultimate Circular saw recommendations?
On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 14:42:27 -0500, "HeyBub" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. ----------- Judging from the replies, everybody pretty much likes what they have. If I didn't I would buy something else. ...and have. Therefore, one conclusion is get the saw that has the most attractive paint job - you'll get used to it. It's more than paint. |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Ultimate Circular saw recommendations?
On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 14:42:27 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote: Doug Miller wrote: My old faithful corded circular saw finally bit the dust yesterday. Something went Pop! and it stopped running. Disassembly today shows half a dozen segments missing from the commutator; the critical parts are no longer available (after 15+ years, that's no surprise), so it's time to buy a new one. My uses are, I think, pretty typical: framing, building decks, cutting sheet goods to manageable size. I'm looking for something that will last a good long time. The one that died is only the second one I've ever owned; the first one lasted nearly 20 years, and I'm hoping for similar durability. The budget is large enough to include Bosch, Makita, or Milwaukee, but not Festool. I'm looking for general recommendations in two areas: a) corded vs. cordless -- my experiences with cordless circular saws have not been positive, but they've been cheap saws, and I'm willing to be persuaded that cordless circular saws that won't drain a battery in five seconds do actually exist; and b) left blade vs. right blade. Every circular saw that I've ever used has had the blade on the right. Advertising for left-blade saws includes phrases like "gives users the clearest line of sight for easy, accurate cutting" but I just don't see how it's really any different. I'm inclined to get a right-blade saw simply because that's what I'm used to, but if there truly are advantages to having the blade on the left, I'd be much obliged if someone would explain them to me. In case it makes a difference to the recommendation, I'm right-handed. I'm also looking for recommendations of specific brands and/or models both to seek out, and to avoid. I intend to avoid tools made in China if at all possible. TIA... Thanks may also be expressed tangibly, in the form of a cold homebrew or three, next time you pass through Indianapolis. ----------- Judging from the replies, everybody pretty much likes what they have. Therefore, one conclusion is get the saw that has the most attractive paint job - you'll get used to it. My old Milwaukee and my old Delta are both twice the saw virtually anything avalable today is. About 10 years or so ago I took out the armature on the delta cutting aluminum - I had a choice - something like $120 for a new armature, of $69 for a new cheap saw. I'm sure I made the right choice, because I still have that saw. The cheap $69 saw would have been in the dump long ago. |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Ultimate Circular saw recommendations?
wrote:
My old Milwaukee and my old Delta are both twice the saw virtually anything avalable today is. About 10 years or so ago I took out the armature on the delta cutting aluminum - I had a choice - something like $120 for a new armature, of $69 for a new cheap saw. I'm sure I made the right choice, because I still have that saw. The cheap $69 saw would have been in the dump long ago. That's interesting - why do you say that? Difference in construction? Evidence? Actually, I believe you are proabaly right, but I'm interested in hearing what you actually found to be the reason for your statement. -- -Mike- |
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