Hi all,
I am looking at buying a circular saw for occasional use so not looking
for an expensive one.
Can anyone give a good recommendation of a "bargain" saw ?

Cheers

http://listings.ebay.co.uk/pool1/pli...x.html?from=R0

try here always good quality saws available,

Alex

"Ady" wrote in message
...
Hi all,
I am looking at buying a circular saw for occasional use so not
looking
for an expensive one.
Can anyone give a good recommendation of a "bargain" saw ?


I was in Focus today, and they had a 1400 watt circular saw, in its
own case, for £44.95, less 25% off, making it about £33.71 Cannot
remember the name though, Challenge? but the whole range was 25% off.
--
Gavin Gillespie
Giltbrook
Nottingham UK

"Gavin Gillespie" wrote in message

I was in Focus today, and they had a 1400 watt circular saw, in its
own case, for £44.95, less 25% off, making it about £33.71 Cannot
remember the name though, Challenge? but the whole range was 25% off.
A plumber was after one for taking up floor boards occasionally. He came
back with a £20 one from Argos. It was a Challenge too I think. It had a
motor of some 1500 to1700 Watts too. I don't know how anyone made money
on that one; a three inch cut blade costs over half that.

I'm not saying it will cut material 3" thick and the blade couldn't have
been much thinner. But even so.



--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:59:32 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

A plumber was after one for taking up floor boards occasionally. He came
back with a £20 one from Argos. It was a Challenge too I think. It had a
motor of some 1500 to1700 Watts too. I don't know how anyone made money
on that one; a three inch cut blade costs over half that.

I bought a cheapie circular saw several months back. Can't remember
the name, but I think I bought it in Homebase.

Does the business no problem with chipboard flooring. I really can't
see any reason to pay more than about 30 quid for one of these babies.
Even if it only lasts 12 months it's money well spent.

PoP

"PoP" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:59:32 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

snip
I bought a cheapie circular saw several months back. Can't remember
the name, but I think I bought it in Homebase.

Does the business no problem with chipboard flooring. I really can't
see any reason to pay more than about 30 quid for one of these babies.
....snip...

Accuracy is the primary reason. Lean on a cheap saw, or try and saw with it
set to a limited depth cut, and all accuracy goes out of the window on a saw
with a pressed steel plate. Even happens on my DeWalt (spit).

Doesn't happen on my brother's Makita with an alloy baseplate.

If millimetre accuracy isn't important for the tasks in hand, then you're
right - not much point in spending more than that.

cheers
Richard
--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:59:28 -0000, "RichardS" noaccess@invalid
wrote:

If millimetre accuracy isn't important for the tasks in hand, then you're
right - not much point in spending more than that.

I'm not usually using a circular saw for accurate work. However the
one I've got (and paid about 30 quid for) has a certain similarity to
a brick ****house in terms of its solid construction.

Whether or not it would stand up to intense application I don't know.
But what I was certainly very impressed with was the fact that it
zipped thru a load of chipboard floorboards when I did a complete
loft, and not once did I think "hmm, blade needs sharpening or
replacing". It just kept whizzing round regardless of whether the
blade was in contact with material. And that for me is a good sign.

But then my previous experience (well before I bought this little
beauty) was on the 500W B&D special which would complain like billy-oh
if the balsa wood was deeper than a 1/4 inch

PoP

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:59:28 -0000, "RichardS" noaccess@invalid
wrote:

"PoP" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:59:32 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

snip
I bought a cheapie circular saw several months back. Can't remember
the name, but I think I bought it in Homebase.

Does the business no problem with chipboard flooring. I really can't
see any reason to pay more than about 30 quid for one of these babies.
...snip...

Accuracy is the primary reason. Lean on a cheap saw, or try and saw with it
set to a limited depth cut, and all accuracy goes out of the window on a saw
with a pressed steel plate. Even happens on my DeWalt (spit).

Doesn't happen on my brother's Makita with an alloy baseplate.

If millimetre accuracy isn't important for the tasks in hand, then you're
right - not much point in spending more than that.

cheers
Richard


Dunno !

Cheap tools have their place. If a cheap cordless drill acts up it
isn't going to do you much damage, but I wouldn't be that keen on
using a cheap circular saw. They can bite.

Paul Mc Cann

"PoP" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:59:28 -0000, "RichardS" noaccess@invalid
wrote:

If millimetre accuracy isn't important for the tasks in hand, then you're
right - not much point in spending more than that.

I'm not usually using a circular saw for accurate work. However the
one I've got (and paid about 30 quid for) has a certain similarity to
a brick ****house in terms of its solid construction.


Sadly, I don't have room for a decent (or any) table saw, so I have to slice
up 8x4 sheets with a circ saw and a home made jig. Flexing base plate
drives me nuts because it doesn't hug the edge of the jig and has ruined one
or two when it's cut into the jig's straight edge.

Whether or not it would stand up to intense application I don't know.
But what I was certainly very impressed with was the fact that it
zipped thru a load of chipboard floorboards when I did a complete
loft, and not once did I think "hmm, blade needs sharpening or
replacing". It just kept whizzing round regardless of whether the
blade was in contact with material. And that for me is a good sign.

The power's not the problem - it's the accuracy for me. YMMV of course...

But then my previous experience (well before I bought this little
beauty) was on the 500W B&D special which would complain like billy-oh
if the balsa wood was deeper than a 1/4 inch

PoP


cheers
Richard



--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:06:43 +0000, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

Cheap tools have their place. If a cheap cordless drill acts up it
isn't going to do you much damage, but I wouldn't be that keen on
using a cheap circular saw. They can bite.

True! But on the other hand if used correctly then the possibility of
it biting is significantly reduced.

PoP

On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:11:59 +0000, Ady
wrote:

Hi all,
I am looking at buying a circular saw for occasional use so not looking
for an expensive one.
Can anyone give a good recommendation of a "bargain" saw ?

Cheers


The Skil Classic has been a well known and solid, yet inexpensive
product for years. Recently replaced by the Skil Orca, but still
good value at under £100




..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 11:11:59 +0000, Ady
wrote:

Hi all,
I am looking at buying a circular saw for occasional use so not looking
for an expensive one.
Can anyone give a good recommendation of a "bargain" saw ?

I got the freud 194mm from screwfix for around £70

It is a bargain but it isn't bargain basement.

It has a cast sole plate which resists flex. I can make accurate
enough cuts that I'm always happy with them. It's got plenty of power
for everything I've thrown it at. (quite a wide variety) Works fine
with the jig I bought (mitre board) and those I've made (assorted)

Very happy with it and the fine freud pro blade (dark red/maroon
colour ones) I got at the same time - gives glassy smooth cuts in many
materials.

I could have spent less I suppose, but whether I'd have saved or
gained anything by doing so is hard to say.

Take Care,
Gnube
{too thick for linux}

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 19:26:35 +0000, PoP
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:06:43 +0000, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

Cheap tools have their place. If a cheap cordless drill acts up it
isn't going to do you much damage, but I wouldn't be that keen on
using a cheap circular saw. They can bite.

True! But on the other hand if used correctly then the possibility of
it biting is significantly reduced.

PoP


My fear would not be in using it in correctly as that can cause any
tool to bite.

Rather I would be afraid of a malfunction such as a riving knife
becoming loose/bent etc and dropping into the spinning blade.

Paul Mc Cann

On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 07:47:40 +0000, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

Rather I would be afraid of a malfunction such as a riving knife
becoming loose/bent etc and dropping into the spinning blade.

Just a thought, but if the riving knife became loose (as in still
attached but not firmly enough) then it would most likely fall onto
the spinning blade, but not necessarily present a major danger, more
like a rather nasty grinding noise that prompts the user to hit the
stop button quickly.

It's not as if the riving knife is going to fall onto the blade in a
way that stops the blade dead in its tracks. Or perhaps I've missed
something?

PoP

"Ady" wrote in message
...
Hi all,
I am looking at buying a circular saw for occasional use so not looking
for an expensive one.
Can anyone give a good recommendation of a "bargain" saw ?

Cheers

Scewfix are doing a Wolf brand 165mm for £25 inc VAT.
Makro are selling NuTool 185mm for £20 and also the same for £25 including
an 18V cordless drill (I have the 16.8V version and it's been excellent) as
a package for £25 (both prices exclude VAT)

All the above have 2 year guarantee, worth the money just for that. You
shouldn't go far wrong with any of them.
There is also a 'cheap' brand called Silverline, which comes with 3 year
guarantee, but I have no expereicne of those.

HTH
Rob

--
Tel. 07010 703 702

Replace SPAM with ORG to reply

On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 19:12:15 +0000, PoP
wrote:

On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 07:47:40 +0000, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

Rather I would be afraid of a malfunction such as a riving knife
becoming loose/bent etc and dropping into the spinning blade.

Just a thought, but if the riving knife became loose (as in still
attached but not firmly enough) then it would most likely fall onto
the spinning blade, but not necessarily present a major danger, more
like a rather nasty grinding noise that prompts the user to hit the
stop button quickly.

It's not as if the riving knife is going to fall onto the blade in a
way that stops the blade dead in its tracks. Or perhaps I've missed
something?

PoP

It would most likley be snapped off and ejected by the blade, possibly
in pieces

It could also lead to a kick back. I've had a circular saw (An ELU, so
not tat ) kick back on me and it frightened the bejasus out of me as
it came very close to my knee whilst still rotating at speed. My fault
off course.

And a circular saw blade doesn't have to be travelling that fast to
inflict hefyt damage

The point I'm making is that a badly built saw is more likely to
inflict serious damage than a badly nade screwdriver.

You pays your money and takes your chance


Paul Mc Cann

"Paul Mc Cann" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 19:12:15 +0000, PoP
wrote:

snip

It could also lead to a kick back. I've had a circular saw (An ELU, so
not tat ) kick back on me and it frightened the bejasus out of me as
it came very close to my knee whilst still rotating at speed. My fault
off course.

And a circular saw blade doesn't have to be travelling that fast to
inflict hefyt damage

snip

Paul, from your posts, you seem to be a pretty experienced woodworker....
what was it that caused the kickback to occur, and how severe was it?

I just like to know what to expect from these things, having never (touch
wood) suffered a kickback yet.

Enough to wrench the saw out of a firm grip? Was the stock clamped securley
(or, as we've all done, secured under a knee on top of a workmate..!)?

Was the kickback straight backwards?

What have you done since that has prevented the recurrence?

cheers
Richard


--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

Ady wrote:

Hello Ady

A| I am looking at buying a circular saw for occasional use so
A| not looking for an expensive one. Can anyone give a good
A| recommendation of a "bargain" saw ?

Avoid ultra-cheapies like Ferm. I've had two, one just wore out within
a couple of months, the second broke its central blade retaining nut
on the first pinch - potentially very dangerous.

I've since paid a bit more and got a mid-range Skil. Different class
and much better in every regard.

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/

On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 14:26:27 +0000, Paul Mc Cann
wrote:

The point I'm making is that a badly built saw is more likely to
inflict serious damage than a badly nade screwdriver.

True.

PoP

On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 15:00:39 -0000, "RichardS" noaccess@invalid
wrote:

snip
what was it that caused the kickback to occur, and how severe was it?

snip

Its some time ago. In retrospect I think I was trying to correct the
cut line and was too forceful. The saw kicked back with a helluva of a
jump,and as I was holding the guard up by hand, having just started a
plunge cut, when it jumped back the spinning blade was exposed. I was
kneelingon the stock at the time

Not quite as bad as the time I was trimming branches across a ditch by
using a chain saw single handed.

I slipped into the ditch. The chain saw was still running as I still
had my hand on the throttle. I was afraid and unable to throw it from
me. All I could do was try to maintain my balance as I fell, which
luckily I managed to do. If I had fallen sideways chances are the
running chain saw would have fallen on top of me. I was conscious of
trying NOT to protect myself with my free hand as it would have proved
fairly ineffective against the chainsaw

Somebody was praying for me that day.

Paul Mc Cann

"Paul Mc Cann" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 15:00:39 -0000, "RichardS" noaccess@invalid
wrote:

snip
what was it that caused the kickback to occur, and how severe was it?

snip

Its some time ago. In retrospect I think I was trying to correct the
cut line and was too forceful. The saw kicked back with a helluva of a
jump,and as I was holding the guard up by hand, having just started a
plunge cut, when it jumped back the spinning blade was exposed. I was
kneelingon the stock at the time

another close shave snipped

aha. bet you won't be recreating that particular set of operating
circumstances again then!!! I've filed it in my "beware" memory location
anyway...

touch wood, havne't suffered kick back from a circular saw yet. I'll try
and keep it that way.

cheers
Richard

--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk