Bill,
About a year ago, you asked us to evaluate a Craigslist or estate
auction tablesaw. Did you ever find a table saw? If you are near
enough to Waverly, Ohio, there may be a saw, here, within your price
range:

http://irsauctions.com/index.asp?pg=...=&view=&today=

A side note (rant): This factory is obviously huge. It sure must
have been quite a blow to the workers/community for it to shut
down.... I suspect they are/have shut down. I have purchased a few
items (woodworking tools, industrial upholstery sewing machine,
hardware items) from this auction site. When I went to pick up my
items, I spoke with the personnel at the facilities. The companies
were not retooling, they were being bought out by Chinese based
franchises.

Though I am retired, I am a certified upholsterer and many customers
want the best built furniture. They are willing to pay for it, also.
Most relatively new furniture, I've reupholstered, is foreign made and
is really poor quality (frame material, foam, construction). For any
of you looking to buy furniture, look into finding an old American
made piece and have it reupholstered, rather than settling for this
newer crap from overseas. Even the foam, in these overseas products,
is inferior. I've replace lots of inferior foam from some of these,
so called, "high end" recently purchased (overseas made) furniture
pieces.

I really dislike seeing our American furniture companies (or any
American company) disappear, this way.

Sorry for the rant, but some things just rub me the wrong way,
sometimes.

Bill, despite someone's possible/probable job loss (relative to the
link), I hope you can find a saw for yourself, if you haven't found
one, already.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
Bill,
About a year ago, you asked us to evaluate a Craigslist or estate
auction tablesaw. Did you ever find a table saw? If you are near
enough to Waverly, Ohio, there may be a saw, here, within your price
range:

http://irsauctions.com/index.asp?pg=...=&view=&today=

Hi, Thank you Very Much for the heads-up! I AM still keeping my eyes
open for a TS and it is very kind of you to remember my interest in one.
I might have bought one by by now if I was caught-up with my shop
renovations.

Like you, I too am saddened when I hear about factories closing as in
this case. The people, the community, ...

In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
(which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
your thoughtfulness! I will keep your suggestions regarding
upholstering in mind too as I have a "favorite couch" : )

Bill






A side note (rant): This factory is obviously huge. It sure must
have been quite a blow to the workers/community for it to shut
down.... I suspect they are/have shut down. I have purchased a few
items (woodworking tools, industrial upholstery sewing machine,
hardware items) from this auction site. When I went to pick up my
items, I spoke with the personnel at the facilities. The companies
were not retooling, they were being bought out by Chinese based
franchises.

Though I am retired, I am a certified upholsterer and many customers
want the best built furniture. They are willing to pay for it, also.
Most relatively new furniture, I've reupholstered, is foreign made and
is really poor quality (frame material, foam, construction). For any
of you looking to buy furniture, look into finding an old American
made piece and have it reupholstered, rather than settling for this
newer crap from overseas. Even the foam, in these overseas products,
is inferior. I've replace lots of inferior foam from some of these,
so called, "high end" recently purchased (overseas made) furniture
pieces.

I really dislike seeing our American furniture companies (or any
American company) disappear, this way.

Sorry for the rant, but some things just rub me the wrong way,
sometimes.

Bill, despite someone's possible/probable job loss (relative to the
link), I hope you can find a saw for yourself, if you haven't found
one, already.

Sonny

Lot 8072 is single phase:

http://irsauctions.com/popups/bidder...4GBR6&id=14688

They haven't finished listing all the items to be sold. Lots 11000 -
11134 have yet to be listed. Might be another saw among these
listings, also.

I didn't think to check all the motor specs. On my previous link, at
the bottom of any page of listings, there is a "past featured
auctions" link. Masco had a previous sale not long ago. You can
check that past auction to see what other table saws sold for. When I
clicked onto it, a moment ago, it was being updated.

Sonny

On Jun 16, 10:30*am, Sonny wrote:
Lot 8072 is single phase:


You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
how old that saw is.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
On Jun 16, 10:30 am, wrote:
Lot 8072 is single phase:


You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
how old that saw is.

Sonny


Thanks for the tips. I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday
using online resources, and failed.

The saw in your previous post looks great. I'll be watching!
It's just 211 miles away.

Bill

"Bill" wrote

I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never dated a
table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.

(Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by being
some damn literal.)

Lee Michaels wrote:
"Bill" wrote

I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never
dated a table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.

(Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by
being some damn literal.)

Is this where we merge the thread "Squaring Rough Lumber" with this one, and
ask if you got blowed by your table saw?

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Lee Michaels wrote:
"Bill" wrote

I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....

I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never
dated a table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.


I sort of smirked when I wrote that, but then I thought these guys will
know exactly what I mean and won't think anything of it. Next time I'll
know better...lol



(Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by
being some damn literal.)

Is this where we merge the thread "Squaring Rough Lumber" with this one, and
ask if you got blowed by your table saw?

Lee Michaels wrote:


"Bill" wrote

I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never
dated a table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.

I've known plenty of woman that ran like SawStops... ; )



(Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by being
some damn literal.)

On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:12:20 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:



"Bill" wrote

I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never dated a
table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.

(Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by being
some damn literal.)

Just turn it on and stick it in, Mr. Liberal. It'll show you a good
time. No formal date is necessary for it to ravish you.

--
Happiness is when what you think, what
you say, and what you do are in harmony.
-- Mahatma Gandhi

On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 22:36:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:12:20 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:



"Bill" wrote

I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never dated a
table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.

(Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by being
some damn literal.)

Just turn it on and stick it in, Mr. Liberal. It'll show you a good
time. No formal date is necessary for it to ravish you.

Oh, "liTeral". Never mind.

--
Happiness is when what you think, what
you say, and what you do are in harmony.
-- Mahatma Gandhi

Sonny wrote:
On Jun 16, 10:30 am, wrote:
Lot 8072 is single phase:


You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
how old that saw is.

Sonny


I think that black tube that runs behind the saw is part of overhead
dust collection (do you think that is correct?). What would the
"control panel" that is attached to it be for?

BTW, the price went to $400 since yesterday (without any help from me),
and thee is still about 9 days to go... Spent several hours trying to
learn more about the saw--the saw part is 456 pounds (lol) ; )

Bill

I think that black tube that runs behind the saw is part of overhead
dust collection (do you think that is correct?). *What would the
"control panel" that is attached to it be for?
Bill

That black pipe is the over arm blade guard support (see the listed
amenities) and they are often, at least part of, the dust collection
feature, as you surmised. Many saws have that kind of blade guard
attachment, rather than the blade guard attached to the table top,
behind the blade.

I don't see a control panel on the arm guard. I see a tool rest/cage-
type thing. Other than that, I see a valve, for adjusting the dust
collection. The dust ducts, for overhead collection, have,
apparently, been detached from the saw.

Expect the price to reach $600. I doubt you will find a good used
Unisaw, anywhere, for less than that. It's a good idea to add the 10%
auctioneers fee and your travel costs, in determining the max amount
you are willing to invest in the whole affair. If the bidding reaches
$800, I would hesitate to bid further.... might as well buy a new saw
for $1200 - $1400 (?). A new saw comes with a warranty and possibly a
discounted (additional $, but w/ rebate) mobile base. *Ask if there's
supposed to be a mobile base for that saw! ...Never can tell, maybe
there's one hanging around (Not listed on the manifest, but originally
party to the saw) waiting to be remarried.

Call or email the IRS site's contact person and they can give you the
Waverly contact person, to get specific info about the item. Should
you bid and win, make copies of the posted pics, of the saw, before
going pick it up. You want to make sure everything pictured remains
intact. If you bid and win, bring tools to disassemble the saw from
the extension table and a dolly, just in case you have to load
yourself. It'll be hard to load the whole, as is. If you bid and
win, ask if they have the paperwork/invoice/instruction/users manual
for the saw (in the administrative office, somewhere). Try to get
those items, also, if available, while the getting is good. If the
saw is not too old, there may be some warrranty remaining.

That IRS link has many other sales. Every now and then a pretty good
deal, or 2, comes along. You just have to be patient. If not this
sale, I hope you can eventually find a good saw and nearer to you.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:

I think that black tube that runs behind the saw is part of overhead
dust collection (do you think that is correct?). What would the
"control panel" that is attached to it be for?
Bill

That black pipe is the over arm blade guard support (see the listed
amenities) and they are often, at least part of, the dust collection
feature, as you surmised. Many saws have that kind of blade guard
attachment, rather than the blade guard attached to the table top,
behind the blade.

I don't see a control panel on the arm guard. I see a tool rest/cage-
type thing. Other than that, I see a valve, for adjusting the dust
collection. The dust ducts, for overhead collection, have,
apparently, been detached from the saw.

Expect the price to reach $600. I doubt you will find a good used
Unisaw, anywhere, for less than that. It's a good idea to add the 10%
auctioneers fee and your travel costs, in determining the max amount
you are willing to invest in the whole affair. If the bidding reaches
$800, I would hesitate to bid further.... might as well buy a new saw
for $1200 - $1400 (?). A new saw comes with a warranty and possibly a
discounted (additional $, but w/ rebate) mobile base. *Ask if there's
supposed to be a mobile base for that saw! ...Never can tell, maybe
there's one hanging around (Not listed on the manifest, but originally
party to the saw) waiting to be remarried.

Call or email the IRS site's contact person and they can give you the
Waverly contact person, to get specific info about the item. Should
you bid and win, make copies of the posted pics, of the saw, before
going pick it up. You want to make sure everything pictured remains
intact. If you bid and win, bring tools to disassemble the saw from
the extension table and a dolly, just in case you have to load
yourself. It'll be hard to load the whole, as is. If you bid and
win, ask if they have the paperwork/invoice/instruction/users manual
for the saw (in the administrative office, somewhere). Try to get
those items, also, if available, while the getting is good. If the
saw is not too old, there may be some warrranty remaining.

That IRS link has many other sales. Every now and then a pretty good
deal, or 2, comes along. You just have to be patient. If not this
sale, I hope you can eventually find a good saw and nearer to you.

Sonny


Thank you, there is a lot of good information in your post! You
answered some of the questions I had, and then some!

I assume a dolly and a rental truck w/a lift gate is the right mechanism
to move and transport a saw like this. Never having used a lift gate
before, I wasn't sure how big of a support area a lift gate had.
Hopefully the transportation costs won't be truly excessive--I'll
investigate that next.

Thank you for giving your perspective on price estimates too. Your
estimate of a new saw at about $1400 was not far off since I was
considering the Grizzly G691.

I finished putting my DP together last night (the time consuming part of
that was "over-building" a baseboard with wheels and legs and taking it
as an opportunity to practice with my router). I found a good deal on a
14" Delta band saw on clearance a number of months ago. I'll start
assembling that today. With these big boxes off of the ground it will
be a lot easier to move a TS in. Your timing in making the Wreck readers
aware of this auction worked out perfect for me!
I need to go check to see if anyone else has bid on the saw since
yesterday...

Bill

"Bill" wrote

In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
(which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
your thoughtfulness!

It could be worth getting one, if you were to sell the motor on it, and get
a new single phase motor, or have a shop rewind yours, if you can find a
shop. Saws like these are worth a good bit more than a newer lightweight.

-- Jim in NC

Morgans wrote:
"Bill" wrote

In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
(which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
your thoughtfulness!

It could be worth getting one, if you were to sell the motor on it, and
get a new single phase motor, or have a shop rewind yours, if you can
find a shop. Saws like these are worth a good bit more than a newer
lightweight.

-- Jim in NC


Thanks for the information Jim.

BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?

I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand. Along with the
baseboard I'm sure it is close to 300#. If it were to tip it is unlikely
that I could catch it so I'm glad I don't have to move the DP with a dolly!

Bill

On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, Bill wrote:

Thanks for the information Jim.

BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?

I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand.

How do you secure it once you get it situated, Bill?


Along with the
baseboard I'm sure it is close to 300#. If it were to tip it is unlikely
that I could catch it so I'm glad I don't have to move the DP with a dolly!

I think you meant to say "hand truck", dincha? What you built was a
dolly.

And while we're at it, one stands -on- a podium and -at/behind- a
lectern. /pet peeves

--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson

On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 23:16:41 -0700, Morgans wrote:

"Bill" wrote

In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
(which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
your thoughtfulness!

It could be worth getting one, if you were to sell the motor on it, and get
a new single phase motor, or have a shop rewind yours, if you can find a
shop. Saws like these are worth a good bit more than a newer lightweight.

-- Jim in NC

I worked in a furniture plant back in an earlier life, most of the table
saws were set up to do a particular job and even though they may have
sawn more lumber in a day than a cabinet shop or home user would put
through it in a lifetime, the trunnions and gear drives on the adjustments
would be like new even after many years of hard use.

basilisk

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, wrote:

Thanks for the information Jim.

BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?

I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand.

How do you secure it once you get it situated, Bill?

Morgans gets most of the credit for giving me the idea. It has four 3
1/2" (3.75" long), 3/8" carriage bolts each of which screws into a
threaded insert in the bottom of the frame/base. These allow the bolts
to go 3" into the frame (twobafour). Since the bottom of the wheels
extend about 1 1/4" below the frame, if the screws are tightened enough
the unit stands on its wheels. If they are extended more than 1 1/4"
then the unit will rest on the carriage bolts. I know you get the idea
but I will post a picture after my wife "fixes" our camera.

I haven't actually tried resting the unit the carriage bolts yet. I had
no difficulty testing the DP with the unit on wheels. The force of
gravity along with the friction of the concrete floor is enough to keep
the unit from moving. When I was finished I just moved it 6 feet off to
the side, with ease, swept up, and moved it back just as easy! I
under-estimated how much I would enjoy the ease of pushing it across the
garage floor! I am still respectful of the fact that it could easily
harm person or property if it fell over, so I don't want to suggest that
I push or pull it around in a lackadaisical manner. When it finds it's
place I will slide some wooden blocks underneath the frame for insurance
(although this may be redundant because if a leg/bolt gives, it will
fall to a wheel). Trust me that I'll try not to under-do it!




Along with the
baseboard I'm sure it is close to 300#. If it were to tip it is unlikely
that I could catch it so I'm glad I don't have to move the DP with a dolly!

I think you meant to say "hand truck", dincha? What you built was a
dolly.

Type "appliance dolly" into a search engine and see what comes up!
I'm sure you are correct. BTW, I like to think I built a "mobile base"!
I forgot to try riding it down the driveway.



And while we're at it, one stands -on- a podium and -at/behind- a
lectern./pet peeves

Didn't know that either! Gosh!

I'm on Day 2 of assembling the BS now. Day 1 involved assembling it's
Delta mobile base, unpacking, cleaning and reading the directions. The
BS assembly work for Day 2 is about to commence. I'm going to go check
out the current price of the TS being auctioned that Sonny referred me
to.. What is your summer project?

Bill



--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson

basilisk wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 23:16:41 -0700, Morgans wrote:

"Bill" wrote

In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
(which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
your thoughtfulness!

It could be worth getting one, if you were to sell the motor on it, and get
a new single phase motor, or have a shop rewind yours, if you can find a
shop. Saws like these are worth a good bit more than a newer lightweight.

-- Jim in NC

I worked in a furniture plant back in an earlier life, most of the table
saws were set up to do a particular job and even though they may have
sawn more lumber in a day than a cabinet shop or home user would put
through it in a lifetime, the trunnions and gear drives on the adjustments
would be like new even after many years of hard use.

basilisk

I surprised but pleased to learn that the wear from hard use is likely
to be so minimal. Are arbor bearings likely to be in good shape too (I
have no idea what's involved in replacing them)? I'm pretty sure that I
won't do as much sawing in my lifetime as a factory saw could do in a
long day.

Bill

Bill wrote:


I surprised but pleased to learn that the wear from hard use is likely
to be so minimal. Are arbor bearings likely to be in good shape too (I
have no idea what's involved in replacing them)? I'm pretty sure
that I won't do as much sawing in my lifetime as a factory saw could
do in a long day.



Bill - you could pay $100 for a 50 year old Craftsman 10" table saw and
likely, the arbor bearings would be just fine for years to come. You worry
too much.

--

-Mike-

On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, Bill wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, wrote:

Thanks for the information Jim.

BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?

If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.


I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand.

How do you secure it once you get it situated, Bill?

Morgans gets most of the credit for giving me the idea. It has four 3
1/2" (3.75" long), 3/8" carriage bolts each of which screws into a
threaded insert in the bottom of the frame/base. These allow the bolts
to go 3" into the frame (twobafour). Since the bottom of the wheels
extend about 1 1/4" below the frame, if the screws are tightened enough
the unit stands on its wheels. If they are extended more than 1 1/4"
then the unit will rest on the carriage bolts. I know you get the idea
but I will post a picture after my wife "fixes" our camera.

Are the bolts long enough to double-nut and use a socket on an
electric drill to run up and down? It'll save you a lot of time and
hassle if you do it that way.

Well, looky there! They're selling mobile bases again.
http://www.harborfreight.com/300-lb-...ase-95288.html
Instead of the knobs, double nuts would run those stop pad bolts down
in under a minute.


I haven't actually tried resting the unit the carriage bolts yet. I had
no difficulty testing the DP with the unit on wheels. The force of
gravity along with the friction of the concrete floor is enough to keep
the unit from moving. When I was finished I just moved it 6 feet off to
the side, with ease, swept up, and moved it back just as easy! I
under-estimated how much I would enjoy the ease of pushing it across the
garage floor! I am still respectful of the fact that it could easily
harm person or property if it fell over, so I don't want to suggest that
I push or pull it around in a lackadaisical manner. When it finds it's
place I will slide some wooden blocks underneath the frame for insurance
(although this may be redundant because if a leg/bolt gives, it will
fall to a wheel). Trust me that I'll try not to under-do it!

I believe we can trust you on that. titter


Along with the
baseboard I'm sure it is close to 300#. If it were to tip it is unlikely
that I could catch it so I'm glad I don't have to move the DP with a dolly!

I think you meant to say "hand truck", dincha? What you built was a
dolly.

Type "appliance dolly" into a search engine and see what comes up!
I'm sure you are correct. BTW, I like to think I built a "mobile base"!
I forgot to try riding it down the driveway.

I think that might have been fun, but the traffic would be hell,
seein' as you didn't provide a hand brake on the thing.


And while we're at it, one stands -on- a podium and -at/behind- a
lectern./pet peeves

Didn't know that either! Gosh!

It amazes me that 99% of people don't seem to know that difference or
the one between dolly and hand truck.


I'm on Day 2 of assembling the BS now. Day 1 involved assembling it's
Delta mobile base, unpacking, cleaning and reading the directions. The
BS assembly work for Day 2 is about to commence. I'm going to go check
out the current price of the TS being auctioned that Sonny referred me
to.. What is your summer project?

DECLUTTERING the house and shop. I'm knee deep in paperwork and
packratted items, so anything after that is gravy. sigh

--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


I surprised but pleased to learn that the wear from hard use is likely
to be so minimal. Are arbor bearings likely to be in good shape too (I
have no idea what's involved in replacing them)? I'm pretty sure
that I won't do as much sawing in my lifetime as a factory saw could
do in a long day.



Bill - you could pay $100 for a 50 year old Craftsman 10" table saw and
likely, the arbor bearings would be just fine for years to come. You worry
too much.


Thanks Mike. Those things must be make of steel! ; ) It seems like
when people are looking at old saws that's one of the things they check.
I guess that mainly leaves the motor to go bad..

You say I worry too much, but almost half of the time I go through the
Wendy's drive-thru they screw up my order! In my experience, entropy
is NOT on my side... Murphy, too, was a victim of entropy. ; )

Bill

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, wrote:

Thanks for the information Jim.

BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?

If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.

Here's mine: I think I'll be ok.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053




I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand.

How do you secure it once you get it situated, Bill?

Morgans gets most of the credit for giving me the idea. It has four 3
1/2" (3.75" long), 3/8" carriage bolts each of which screws into a
threaded insert in the bottom of the frame/base. These allow the bolts
to go 3" into the frame (twobafour). Since the bottom of the wheels
extend about 1 1/4" below the frame, if the screws are tightened enough
the unit stands on its wheels. If they are extended more than 1 1/4"
then the unit will rest on the carriage bolts. I know you get the idea
but I will post a picture after my wife "fixes" our camera.

Are the bolts long enough to double-nut and use a socket on an
electric drill to run up and down? It'll save you a lot of time and
hassle if you do it that way.

There are probably a few things I would do differently the next time
around. I learned a lot by doing the project. For instance, I learned
that Brad point bits are great!

snip

Bill

On 6/19/2011 12:39 AM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, wrote:

Thanks for the information Jim.

BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for
long?

If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.

Here's mine: I think I'll be ok.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Maybe, I have had that kind under my scrap lumber bin, the rubber wheels
broke.

On 6/19/2011 12:22 AM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


I surprised but pleased to learn that the wear from hard use is likely
to be so minimal. Are arbor bearings likely to be in good shape too (I
have no idea what's involved in replacing them)? I'm pretty sure
that I won't do as much sawing in my lifetime as a factory saw could
do in a long day.



Bill - you could pay $100 for a 50 year old Craftsman 10" table saw and
likely, the arbor bearings would be just fine for years to come. You
worry
too much.


Thanks Mike. Those things must be make of steel! ; ) It seems like when
people are looking at old saws that's one of the things they check.
I guess that mainly leaves the motor to go bad..

You say I worry too much, but almost half of the time I go through the
Wendy's drive-thru they screw up my order! In my experience, entropy is
NOT on my side... Murphy, too, was a victim of entropy. ; )

Bill

BUt But,50 years ago Wendy's did not exist or the people working there.

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:

Bill - you could pay $100 for a 50 year old Craftsman 10" table saw
and likely, the arbor bearings would be just fine for years to come.
You worry too much.


Thanks Mike. Those things must be make of steel! ; ) It seems like
when people are looking at old saws that's one of the things they
check. I guess that mainly leaves the motor to go bad..

Oh sure - worth checking, but my point is only that you won't find many
arbor bearings that need replacing.


You say I worry too much, but almost half of the time I go through the
Wendy's drive-thru they screw up my order! In my experience, entropy
is NOT on my side... Murphy, too, was a victim of entropy. ; )


Nah - Murphy was just a pessimist...

--

-Mike-

On 6/19/2011 10:11 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 07:10:12 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 6/19/2011 12:39 AM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, wrote:

Thanks for the information Jim.

BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for
long?

If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.

Here's mine: I think I'll be ok.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Maybe, I have had that kind under my scrap lumber bin, the rubber wheels
broke.

I've had these http://goo.gl/EySsk for years without problems, but
usually on lighter-weight stuff, under #100 load on each wheel.

--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck

I had less than 50lbs on each wheel. Axle pushed right through the
wheel center and broke it.

I find the harder plastic wheels hold up much better.

Having worked in a hospital setting, I became aware of rolling
equipment eventually becoming damaged. One day, I checked with the
maintenace department to see if there were any casters available for
salvaging, to put on a lathe cabinet I made. Sho-nuff, half a dozen
sets of top quality casters.... soft & hard rubber tired, plastic
tires, bare metal. If convenient, call your local hospital maintenace
department to see what might be available. Besdies the lathe cabinet,
I've used some of those salvaged casters for 2 carts I made for moving
upholstered furniture, steel ones for my anvil base and 2 for the
RAS.

In the salvage mix was 2 patient gurneys. The aluminum framing was
perfect for refabbing into furniture carts, w/ soft roll wheels (no
damage rolling on customer's hardwood floors) that turn on a dime.
Those gurneys/casters are required to support very large patients!

Sonny

Larry Jaques wrote:

There are probably a few things I would do differently the next time
around. I learned a lot by doing the project. For instance, I learned
that Brad point bits are great!

I remember learning that lesson. BPs are great for wood, aren't they?
No splintering at the leading edges now, even in softwood! Forstners
are another treat.

Since we're talking about this. I noticed all of my exit holes came out
without splintering, but I had some splintering where where the (1/2")
bit entered. I was using a variable-speed hand drill. I was wondering
whether to blame this on the drill not being up-to-speed before contact?
Is this the likely culprit?

BTW, same bit on my new DP, speed set to 1500 RPM as per DP guidelines.
No splintering.

Bill

Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:

There are probably a few things I would do differently the next time
around. I learned a lot by doing the project. For instance, I learned
that Brad point bits are great!

I remember learning that lesson. BPs are great for wood, aren't they?
No splintering at the leading edges now, even in softwood! Forstners
are another treat.

Since we're talking about this. I noticed all of my exit holes came out
without splintering, but I had some splintering where where the (1/2")
bit entered. I was using a variable-speed hand drill. I was wondering
whether to blame this on the drill not being up-to-speed before contact?
Is this the likely culprit?


Hmmm.. another variable. In the case where I got splintering I had
already pre-drilled with 3/16" bit. Is that, more likely, the source of
the splintering.

Bill

Brad point bit or metal cutting bit?

..... 3) Dull/nicked drill bit, 4) soft or weak wood, 5) ....,
6) .....

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
Brad point bit or metal cutting bit?

.... 3) Dull/nicked drill bit, 4) soft or weak wood, 5) ....,
6) .....

Sonny

I was using 1/2" Brad point bit. I'm thinking that it was the 3/16"
pre-drilling,or my starting at slow speed. The bits came out cleaner
than they went in. Those 4 holes were for my 1/2" bolts for the metal
DP base. Naturally they didn't quite line up well enough with the 1/2"
holes in the base so I ended up re-drilling them with a 5/8" bit. One
important lesson in the project was "don't make yer tolerances too
tight, or you'll spend a lot of time working around them!"!

Bill

On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 21:43:09 -0400, Bill wrote:

Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:

There are probably a few things I would do differently the next time
around. I learned a lot by doing the project. For instance, I learned
that Brad point bits are great!

I remember learning that lesson. BPs are great for wood, aren't they?
No splintering at the leading edges now, even in softwood! Forstners
are another treat.

Since we're talking about this. I noticed all of my exit holes came out
without splintering, but I had some splintering where where the (1/2")
bit entered. I was using a variable-speed hand drill. I was wondering
whether to blame this on the drill not being up-to-speed before contact?
Is this the likely culprit?

Slow RPM usually _isn't_ a problem when drilling wood.


Hmmm.. another variable. In the case where I got splintering I had
already pre-drilled with 3/16" bit. Is that, more likely, the source of
the splintering.

With a brad point, yes, likely the culprit. The guide tit (we'll call
him Brad for good measure) didn't have anything to grab onto, so when
the first flute hit (if it weren't exactly vertical) it tried to drill
an oblong or oversized hole. Try to avoid pilot holes in wood unless
you're using a twist drill in the center of a hole saw and the pilot
is the same or smaller size than the pilot bit in the saw.

--
The more passions and desires one has,
the more ways one has of being happy.
-- Charlotte-Catherine

Larry Jaques wrote:

Hmmm.. another variable. In the case where I got splintering I had
already pre-drilled with 3/16" bit. Is that, more likely, the source of
the splintering.

With a brad point, yes, likely the culprit. The guide tit (we'll call
him Brad for good measure) didn't have anything to grab onto, so when
the first flute hit (if it weren't exactly vertical) it tried to drill
an oblong or oversized hole.

Thanks, that makes sense.

Try to avoid pilot holes in wood unless
you're using a twist drill in the center of a hole saw and the pilot
is the same or smaller size than the pilot bit in the saw.

Okay... My technique hasn't caught up with the technology (never used BP
bits before...). I like the BP bits just fine now though. It's great to
be able to bore holes right where you want two!

Bill



--
The more passions and desires one has,
the more ways one has of being happy.
-- Charlotte-Catherine

Thanks again. There is a lot of very good information in your post!

Bill


Sonny wrote:

I think that black tube that runs behind the saw is part of overhead
dust collection (do you think that is correct?). What would the
"control panel" that is attached to it be for?
Bill

That black pipe is the over arm blade guard support (see the listed
amenities) and they are often, at least part of, the dust collection
feature, as you surmised. Many saws have that kind of blade guard
attachment, rather than the blade guard attached to the table top,
behind the blade.

I don't see a control panel on the arm guard. I see a tool rest/cage-
type thing. Other than that, I see a valve, for adjusting the dust
collection. The dust ducts, for overhead collection, have,
apparently, been detached from the saw.

Expect the price to reach $600. I doubt you will find a good used
Unisaw, anywhere, for less than that. It's a good idea to add the 10%
auctioneers fee and your travel costs, in determining the max amount
you are willing to invest in the whole affair. If the bidding reaches
$800, I would hesitate to bid further.... might as well buy a new saw
for $1200 - $1400 (?). A new saw comes with a warranty and possibly a
discounted (additional $, but w/ rebate) mobile base. *Ask if there's
supposed to be a mobile base for that saw! ...Never can tell, maybe
there's one hanging around (Not listed on the manifest, but originally
party to the saw) waiting to be remarried.

Call or email the IRS site's contact person and they can give you the
Waverly contact person, to get specific info about the item. Should
you bid and win, make copies of the posted pics, of the saw, before
going pick it up. You want to make sure everything pictured remains
intact. If you bid and win, bring tools to disassemble the saw from
the extension table and a dolly, just in case you have to load
yourself. It'll be hard to load the whole, as is. If you bid and
win, ask if they have the paperwork/invoice/instruction/users manual
for the saw (in the administrative office, somewhere). Try to get
those items, also, if available, while the getting is good. If the
saw is not too old, there may be some warrranty remaining.

That IRS link has many other sales. Every now and then a pretty good
deal, or 2, comes along. You just have to be patient. If not this
sale, I hope you can eventually find a good saw and nearer to you.

Sonny

On 2011-06-19 01:22:25 -0400, Bill said:

You say I worry too much, but almost half of the time I go through the
Wendy's drive-thru they screw up my order!

A true worrier would go inside and check the order before stepping away
from the counter.

On 2011-06-19 08:18:33 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
said:

Nah - Murphy was just a pessimist...

No. Murphy was an optimist.

In article , Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Lee Michaels wrote:
"Bill" wrote

I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....

I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never
dated a table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.


I sort of smirked when I wrote that, but then I thought these guys will
know exactly what I mean and won't think anything of it. Next time I'll
know better...lol


Have you ever made ....



a deck of cards?



Or, when installing a floor-mount mobile two-way rig,



humped a radio?

Sonny wrote:
On Jun 16, 10:30 am, wrote:
Lot 8072 is single phase:


You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
how old that saw is.

Sonny


Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.

Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
Costs:

About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
$140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
$150 to load (estimate was provided)
$100+ for gas

which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.

This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
$850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.

It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank
you folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL

Bill