Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Dec 16, 2:33*pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. *List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff & it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

Luigi

On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back
of the stove.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Dec 16, 6:57*pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote: On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. *List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& *it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. *I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. *They are so handy just at the back
of the stove.
--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands
onto a heat source?
..
..
..
Me neither.

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to
use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?


Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
alcohol. Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
other film finish.

But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
probably easier to find. That way the shelf is easily refinished.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back of
the stove.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I would
not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material such as
quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it is to the
flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or scorch.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.

Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

On 12/16/10 7:11 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Dec 16, 6:57 pm,
wrote:
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote: On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back
of the stove.
--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands
onto a heat source?
.
.
.
Me neither.

Electric.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 12/16/10 7:24 PM, EXT wrote:

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why
I mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters
is a possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the
various oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at
the back of the stove.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I
would not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material
such as quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it
is to the flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or
scorch.


It is going to be no closer than the cabinet clearance allowed.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 12/16/10 7:30 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 12/16/10 7:24 PM, EXT wrote:

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie
oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now
what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why
I mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters
is a possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the
various oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at
the back of the stove.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I
would not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material
such as quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it
is to the flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or
scorch.


It is going to be no closer than the cabinet clearance allowed.

I'll add, it is only about 4 inches deep, we use wine bottles for small
amount of the oils and vinegars, it will give plenty of clearance for
the burners.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

In article ,
FrozenNorth wrote:

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Stainless steel. Matching the cabinets won't be much of an issue when
it's on fire. Put the oils somewhere else, too. The vinegar and salt
might at least help to put the fire out...

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Robatoy wrote:


Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands
onto a heat source?
.
.
.
Me neither.

Liar...

--

-Mike-

FrozenNorth wrote:

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets,
now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Are you opposed to formica?

--

-Mike-

On 12/16/10 9:31 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote:

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets,
now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Are you opposed to formica?

It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

Seriously, my wife suggested tonight just painting it white, which would
blend in with the ceramics between the granite and the cabinets, maybe I
can find a white enamel paint with some heat resistant qualities. Sounds
like a trip to HD and/or Rona tomorrow, see what I can find in the way
of brackets and finish.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

FrozenNorth wrote:

It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
up.

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote:

It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
up.

Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Dec 16, 6:28*pm, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33*pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. *List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff & it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

Luigi

Oil won't harm shellac. Can't French polish without it.

On Dec 16, 7:13*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:
I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
*to
use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
alcohol. *Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
other film finish.

But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
probably easier to find. *That way the shelf is easily refinished.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil.
Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat.
Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears
better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second,
polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a
Saran wrap feel.

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Dec 16, 7:13*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:
I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
*to
use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
alcohol. *Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
other film finish.

But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
probably easier to find. *That way the shelf is easily refinished.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil.
Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat.
Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears
better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second,
polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a
Saran wrap feel.

I've had varnish on bookshelves get sticky on me. Rockhard and
Waterlox are both tung oil and phenolic resin based and work better
than most. Waterlox has products for shiny, medium, and nice, matte
finishes. It's quick to apply, quick to dry, and has a very nice
hand. Just Do It!


--
Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises.
-- Demosthenes

On Dec 16, 11:19*pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:
On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote: FrozenNorth wrote:

It just might clash with the granite counter top. *:-)

to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
up.

Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.

--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Uba Tuba? How about a complementary colour as it is a 'featurette' in
solid surface? I have all kinds of small pieces like that in a variety
of colours. Black with a flake? Black with a stipple? Pure white? A
freebie if you want it, if you find a way to get it to you.

On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 07:13:59 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote:

On Dec 16, 11:19*pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:
On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote: FrozenNorth wrote:

It just might clash with the granite counter top. *:-)

to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
up.

Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.

Uba Tuba? How about a complementary colour as it is a 'featurette' in
solid surface? I have all kinds of small pieces like that in a variety
of colours. Black with a flake? Black with a stipple? Pure white? A
freebie if you want it, if you find a way to get it to you.

Uba Tuba, the most glorious of granites! I love that stuff for its
looks, hate it for its coldness and hardness.

--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
-- Okakura Kakuzo

Actually Shellac stands up better than you think.
Yes it will water spot, but there won't be any water on it.

I think you should be fine with shellac. It repairs the easiest of all
since a new coat melts the old. It goes over waxy substances, and
grease. Yes it does, it is used as a sealer when all else fails.

So go for it.

On 12/16/2010 7:28 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.

Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

On 12/17/10 10:13 AM, Robatoy wrote:
On Dec 16, 11:19 pm,
wrote:
On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote: FrozenNorth wrote:

It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
up.

Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.

--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Uba Tuba? How about a complementary colour as it is a 'featurette' in
solid surface? I have all kinds of small pieces like that in a variety
of colours. Black with a flake? Black with a stipple? Pure white? A
freebie if you want it, if you find a way to get it to you.

Actually I sent an email to your gmail account last night, not sure if
you check it regularly or at all. Please provide another means of
contact if that account is no longer valid.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

In article , frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Best bet's probably polyurethane. A precatalyzed lacquer would also be
good but it may take a week or so before you don't smell it anymore.

On Dec 16, 6:28*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.

Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

As a finisher, I must say this is the best response posted. Sure, you
can put a little piece of granite, stainless, laminate, etc., on this
accessory.

But since he specifically asked for a FINISH, I this is where
POLYURETHANE (for the impaired cave dwellers living in 1970s
woodworking fog) shines at its best.

For commonly found finishes available over the counter:

No finish is more cleanable.
No finish is more resistant to chemicals.
No finish is more abrasion resistant.
No finish is easier to apply.
For its toughness, no finish is easier to remove then reapply if
needed.

You can even get some tough as nails water based that won't yellow
over time such as Campbell, Sherwin Williams, etc.

Spot on there, Sonoma.

Robert

On Dec 17, 10:38*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 07:13:59 -0800 (PST), Robatoy





wrote:
On Dec 16, 11:19 pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:
On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote: FrozenNorth wrote:

It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
up.

Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.

Uba Tuba? How about a complementary colour as it is a 'featurette' in
solid surface? I have all kinds of small pieces like that in a variety
of colours. Black with a flake? Black with a stipple? Pure white? A
freebie if you want it, if you find a way to get it to you.

Uba Tuba, the most glorious of granites! *I love that stuff for its
looks, hate it for its coldness and hardness.

--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Okakura Kakuzo

Certainly near the top of my list also, but grades vary and it is hard
to beat the look of black pearl.
Because grades vary so much, a high grade Uba Tuba looks nicer than a
lower grade Black Pearl, but the opposite is also true.
So much absolute **** is being pawned off as Uba Tuba that one can
only hope that the dealer/fabricator you're working with knows his
stuff and won't buy crap to begin with.
In that sense, granite is like woods and diamonds... so many
variations.
I would rather have a pine board as a counter than some of the ****
that's being sold as granite anymore....BUT...

..
..
ohh.. and it's all hard and cold, makes for lousy bar tops and
desks... and not from a durability perspective either.

Good starting point: http://www.bluepearl.no/ and click on Lundhs.no
If you are ever in the neighbourhood of Larvik Norway, check out the
quarry, you'll see emerald pearl, blue pearl and black pearl, all from
the same area. If a piece of black pearl is of optimum grade and
polished properly, it looks way deeper than its thickness... just
awesome.

In article , frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...

On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back
of the stove.

Shouldn't be an issue for a decent urethane.

On Dec 17, 11:13*am, FrozenNorth
wrote:
On 12/17/10 10:13 AM, Robatoy wrote:





On Dec 16, 11:19 pm,
wrote:
On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote: *FrozenNorth wrote:

It just might clash with the granite counter top. *:-)

to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
up.

Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.

--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Uba Tuba? How about a complementary colour as it is a 'featurette' in
solid surface? I have all kinds of small pieces like that in a variety
of colours. Black with a flake? Black with a stipple? Pure white? A
freebie if you want it, if you find a way to get it to you.

Actually I sent an email to your gmail account last night, not sure if
you check it regularly or at all. *Please provide another means of
contact if that account is no longer valid.

--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

I replied to it already, and yes, I do check it once per day minimum.

A more direct route is designatangstromperiodca

On Dec 17, 11:22*am, "
wrote:
On Dec 16, 6:28*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.

Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

As a finisher, I must say this is the best response posted. *Sure, you
can put a little piece of granite, stainless, laminate, etc., on this
accessory.

But since he specifically asked for a FINISH, I this is where
POLYURETHANE (for the impaired cave dwellers living in 1970s
woodworking fog) shines at its best.

For commonly found finishes available over the counter:

No finish is more cleanable.
No finish is more resistant to chemicals.
No finish is more abrasion resistant.
No finish is easier to apply.
For its toughness, no finish is easier to remove then reapply if
needed.

You can even get some tough as nails water based that won't yellow
over time such as Campbell, Sherwin Williams, etc.

Spot on there, Sonoma.

Robert

As I have finished many side panels, next to fridges and near stoves,
poly has certainly been tits.
Stuff doesn't look that bad either.

On 12/17/10 11:20 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In , frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Best bet's probably polyurethane. A precatalyzed lacquer would also be
good but it may take a week or so before you don't smell it anymore.

I can deal with a week of smell, I did the recommended burn cycle on the
new stove, the factory smell still comes out when I turn it on.

Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off
the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much
safer anyway.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Dec 17, 10:38*am, Robatoy wrote:

poly has certainly been tits.

Well, that caused a bit of coffee spew. I hadn't heard that one in
ages.... crap!

I am still chuckling while wiping up!

He said tits...

Robert

On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 08:26:06 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote:

On Dec 17, 10:38*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 07:13:59 -0800 (PST), Robatoy





wrote:
On Dec 16, 11:19 pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:
On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote: FrozenNorth wrote:

It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
up.

Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.

Uba Tuba? How about a complementary colour as it is a 'featurette' in
solid surface? I have all kinds of small pieces like that in a variety
of colours. Black with a flake? Black with a stipple? Pure white? A
freebie if you want it, if you find a way to get it to you.

Uba Tuba, the most glorious of granites! *I love that stuff for its
looks, hate it for its coldness and hardness.

Certainly near the top of my list also, but grades vary and it is hard
to beat the look of black pearl.


Because grades vary so much, a high grade Uba Tuba looks nicer than a
lower grade Black Pearl, but the opposite is also true.
So much absolute **** is being pawned off as Uba Tuba that one can
only hope that the dealer/fabricator you're working with knows his
stuff and won't buy crap to begin with.
In that sense, granite is like woods and diamonds... so many
variations.

Indeed. The stuff really varies, and since it's fetching ah igher
price, quarries/stone provoders cheat, classing some ****ty pieces by
a much higher name. I personally find the green and gold tones of Uba
Tuba to be breathtaking, and I never really liked granite until I had
seen the green.


I would rather have a pine board as a counter than some of the ****
that's being sold as granite anymore....BUT...

Grok that, but I wouldn't want to live with any stone countertop. I
have a tendency to rest my hands and butt on them, and that ****'s
COLD! Even in the summer. I installed a preformed counter in my
kitchen topped with suede laminate. Very comfortable to the hand.
http://www.cabinetparts.com/g/wester...ern-wilsonart/


ohh.. and it's all hard and cold, makes for lousy bar tops and
desks... and not from a durability perspective either.

Good starting point: http://www.bluepearl.no/ and click on Lundhs.no

I guess it's prettier in person. Those pics don't do it justice at
all. I tried their products page and none of the images were linked.
sigh


If you are ever in the neighbourhood of Larvik Norway, check out the
quarry, you'll see emerald pearl, blue pearl and black pearl, all from
the same area. If a piece of black pearl is of optimum grade and
polished properly, it looks way deeper than its thickness... just
awesome.

'Ell, I'd be lucky to make it all the way up to Vancouver...in the
summer.

--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
-- Okakura Kakuzo

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote:

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on
with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like
Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better.

OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets
screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've
read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is.


--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 16:28:05 -0800, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not ONLY
harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

While it is true that shellac with wax in it will water spot easily,
dewaxed shellac, if let dry for a few days, will not. I have tried to
water spot it and failed. Drops of water left on it overnight, a
sweating glass, an icecube allowed to melt, nothing caused water
spotting. With our hard water some of them left mineral spots, but those
wiped right off. Try it yourself - you'll be surprised.

However you are right about the solvents - I should have mentioned that.
Any strong alkali, like ammonia, will harm it.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Dec 17, 12:03*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:

However you are right about the solvents - I should have mentioned that. *
Any strong alkali, like ammonia, will harm it.

It is a kitchen, after all. It will be cleaned. The best cleaners
are really nasty stuff.

I had an article from years ago about that best kitchen cleaners
(germane to my finishing business one would think I would have kept
it) and how they affected the surfaces they cleaned.

When I "final clean" my jobs, I am a big proponent of 409 since it
will cut oil, grease, and even take off pencil marks.

The report I had tested the cleaners to see how deep they cleaned and
if they damaged surfaces. In their testing, they found 409 to be
quite effective, but quite destructive. It ate off all manner of
kitchen cabinet finishes, took off paint, and even etched metal.

When I pick a finish for an item, I always think of what I could put
on it to make it look the best, wear the best, and what will keep me
out of warranty work.

Robert

FrozenNorth wrote:
On 12/16/10 9:31 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote:

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't
deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets,
now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Are you opposed to formica?

It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

Seriously, my wife suggested tonight just painting it white, which
would blend in with the ceramics between the granite and the
cabinets, maybe I can find a white enamel paint with some heat
resistant qualities. Sounds like a trip to HD and/or Rona tomorrow,
see what I can find in the way of brackets and finish.

a scrap piece of granite supported on a couple countersunk rods. you can
polish the edge with wet/dry sandpaper.

tiredofspam wrote:
Actually Shellac stands up better than you think.
Yes it will water spot, but there won't be any water on it.


vinegar is mostly water.

I think you should be fine with shellac. It repairs the easiest of all
since a new coat melts the old. It goes over waxy substances, and
grease. Yes it does, it is used as a sealer when all else fails.

So go for it.

"EXT" writes:

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back of
the stove.


Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I would
not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material such as
quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it is to the
flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or scorch.



I built one from some old growth redwood over a decade ago. Finished
it with Howard's Feed-n-wax. Still looking good and has held up just
fine (balsamic, bowl for sea/kosher salt, salt and pepper grinders).

Mounted on the wall, about 8" above the control panel top with two keyhole
slots.

scott

In article c3e9b771-4b2c-4ff0-994e-8e204e754525
@d8g2000yqf.googlegroups.com, says...

On Dec 16, 7:13*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:
I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
*to
use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
alcohol. *Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
other film finish.

But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
probably easier to find. *That way the shelf is easily refinished.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil.
Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat.
Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears
better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second,
polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a
Saran wrap feel.

If your polyurethane is giving you a "cloudy, yellow finish with a Saran
wrap feel" perhaps you should not let the cat pee in the can next time.

In article , frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...

On 12/16/10 9:31 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote:

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets,
now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Are you opposed to formica?

It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

Seriously, my wife suggested tonight just painting it white, which would
blend in with the ceramics between the granite and the cabinets, maybe I
can find a white enamel paint with some heat resistant qualities. Sounds
like a trip to HD and/or Rona tomorrow, see what I can find in the way
of brackets and finish.

If you can find a supplier for it, M.L. Campbell's Magnamax comes in
white as well as clear, same properties pretty much. Just about
anything wipes off it without a mark. But again it's going to smell
like lacquer for a while and don't let it near a flame until it stops
doing so.