Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Dec 16, 2:33*pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. *List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff & it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

Luigi

On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back
of the stove.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Dec 16, 6:57*pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote: On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. *List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& *it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. *I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. *They are so handy just at the back
of the stove.
--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands
onto a heat source?
..
..
..
Me neither.

On 12/16/10 7:11 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Dec 16, 6:57 pm,
wrote:
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote: On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back
of the stove.
--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands
onto a heat source?
.
.
.
Me neither.

Electric.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Robatoy wrote:


Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands
onto a heat source?
.
.
.
Me neither.

Liar...

--

-Mike-

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back of
the stove.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I would
not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material such as
quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it is to the
flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or scorch.

On 12/16/10 7:24 PM, EXT wrote:

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why
I mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters
is a possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the
various oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at
the back of the stove.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I
would not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material
such as quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it
is to the flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or
scorch.


It is going to be no closer than the cabinet clearance allowed.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 12/16/10 7:30 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 12/16/10 7:24 PM, EXT wrote:

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie
oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now
what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why
I mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters
is a possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the
various oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at
the back of the stove.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I
would not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material
such as quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it
is to the flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or
scorch.


It is going to be no closer than the cabinet clearance allowed.

I'll add, it is only about 4 inches deep, we use wine bottles for small
amount of the oils and vinegars, it will give plenty of clearance for
the burners.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

"EXT" writes:

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back of
the stove.


Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I would
not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material such as
quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it is to the
flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or scorch.



I built one from some old growth redwood over a decade ago. Finished
it with Howard's Feed-n-wax. Still looking good and has held up just
fine (balsamic, bowl for sea/kosher salt, salt and pepper grinders).

Mounted on the wall, about 8" above the control panel top with two keyhole
slots.

scott

In article , frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...

On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm,
wrote:
Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back
of the stove.

Shouldn't be an issue for a decent urethane.

On Dec 16, 6:28*pm, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33*pm, FrozenNorth
wrote:

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. *List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
--
Froz...

The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff & it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

Luigi

Oil won't harm shellac. Can't French polish without it.

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to
use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?


Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
alcohol. Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
other film finish.

But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
probably easier to find. That way the shelf is easily refinished.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Dec 16, 7:13*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:
I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
*to
use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
alcohol. *Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
other film finish.

But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
probably easier to find. *That way the shelf is easily refinished.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil.
Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat.
Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears
better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second,
polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a
Saran wrap feel.

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Dec 16, 7:13*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:
I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
*to
use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
alcohol. *Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
other film finish.

But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
probably easier to find. *That way the shelf is easily refinished.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil.
Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat.
Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears
better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second,
polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a
Saran wrap feel.

I've had varnish on bookshelves get sticky on me. Rockhard and
Waterlox are both tung oil and phenolic resin based and work better
than most. Waterlox has products for shiny, medium, and nice, matte
finishes. It's quick to apply, quick to dry, and has a very nice
hand. Just Do It!


--
Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises.
-- Demosthenes

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote:

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on
with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like
Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better.

OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets
screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've
read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is.


--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:54:45 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote:

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on
with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like
Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better.

OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets
screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've
read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is.

That's a valid concern. I think the assumption here is that the
varnish is plenty tough enough and it will hold up for a long time.

Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is
reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish.

I don't think you would get the same protection from Watco. Watco is
mostly thinner with some linseed oil, resins and metallic dryers. I
don't think it qualifies as "long oil". And I've seen cases where
Watco was used and the wood easily stained with water rings.

On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 00:08:17 -0800, Jim Weisgram
wrote:

On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:54:45 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote:

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on
with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like
Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better.

OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets
screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've
read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is.

That's a valid concern. I think the assumption here is that the
varnish is plenty tough enough and it will hold up for a long time.

For most varnishes, except polyurinestain, that's true. Do a quick
scuff to give it tooth, dewax it with mineral spirits (taking no
chances that it got a squirt of Pledge), then rub on another coat.


Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is
reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish.

I've tried honey (t&t) before and it was OK, but I much prefer
Waterlox. It's much easier to rub on and I feel that it's a tougher
product.


I don't think you would get the same protection from Watco. Watco is
mostly thinner with some linseed oil, resins and metallic dryers. I
don't think it qualifies as "long oil". And I've seen cases where
Watco was used and the wood easily stained with water rings.

If Watco stained with water rings, it was from too few coats. It's
not as sturdy, as you state, though. Other products are better.

--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
-- Okakura Kakuzo

In article c3e9b771-4b2c-4ff0-994e-8e204e754525
@d8g2000yqf.googlegroups.com, says...

On Dec 16, 7:13*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:
I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
*to
use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
alcohol. *Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
other film finish.

But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
probably easier to find. *That way the shelf is easily refinished.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil.
Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat.
Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears
better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second,
polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a
Saran wrap feel.

If your polyurethane is giving you a "cloudy, yellow finish with a Saran
wrap feel" perhaps you should not let the cat pee in the can next time.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? *Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.

Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

Actually Shellac stands up better than you think.
Yes it will water spot, but there won't be any water on it.

I think you should be fine with shellac. It repairs the easiest of all
since a new coat melts the old. It goes over waxy substances, and
grease. Yes it does, it is used as a sealer when all else fails.

So go for it.

On 12/16/2010 7:28 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.

Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

tiredofspam wrote:
Actually Shellac stands up better than you think.
Yes it will water spot, but there won't be any water on it.


vinegar is mostly water.

I think you should be fine with shellac. It repairs the easiest of all
since a new coat melts the old. It goes over waxy substances, and
grease. Yes it does, it is used as a sealer when all else fails.

So go for it.

On Dec 16, 6:28*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.

Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

As a finisher, I must say this is the best response posted. Sure, you
can put a little piece of granite, stainless, laminate, etc., on this
accessory.

But since he specifically asked for a FINISH, I this is where
POLYURETHANE (for the impaired cave dwellers living in 1970s
woodworking fog) shines at its best.

For commonly found finishes available over the counter:

No finish is more cleanable.
No finish is more resistant to chemicals.
No finish is more abrasion resistant.
No finish is easier to apply.
For its toughness, no finish is easier to remove then reapply if
needed.

You can even get some tough as nails water based that won't yellow
over time such as Campbell, Sherwin Williams, etc.

Spot on there, Sonoma.

Robert

On Dec 17, 11:22*am, "
wrote:
On Dec 16, 6:28*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.

Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

As a finisher, I must say this is the best response posted. *Sure, you
can put a little piece of granite, stainless, laminate, etc., on this
accessory.

But since he specifically asked for a FINISH, I this is where
POLYURETHANE (for the impaired cave dwellers living in 1970s
woodworking fog) shines at its best.

For commonly found finishes available over the counter:

No finish is more cleanable.
No finish is more resistant to chemicals.
No finish is more abrasion resistant.
No finish is easier to apply.
For its toughness, no finish is easier to remove then reapply if
needed.

You can even get some tough as nails water based that won't yellow
over time such as Campbell, Sherwin Williams, etc.

Spot on there, Sonoma.

Robert

As I have finished many side panels, next to fridges and near stoves,
poly has certainly been tits.
Stuff doesn't look that bad either.

On Dec 17, 10:38*am, Robatoy wrote:

poly has certainly been tits.

Well, that caused a bit of coffee spew. I hadn't heard that one in
ages.... crap!

I am still chuckling while wiping up!

He said tits...

Robert

wrote

I am still chuckling while wiping up!

He said tits...

If you liked that, how about his one...

Boobs! There, I said it - Booobs!

g
--
Jim in NC

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 16:28:05 -0800, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not ONLY
harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

While it is true that shellac with wax in it will water spot easily,
dewaxed shellac, if let dry for a few days, will not. I have tried to
water spot it and failed. Drops of water left on it overnight, a
sweating glass, an icecube allowed to melt, nothing caused water
spotting. With our hard water some of them left mineral spots, but those
wiped right off. Try it yourself - you'll be surprised.

However you are right about the solvents - I should have mentioned that.
Any strong alkali, like ammonia, will harm it.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Dec 17, 12:03*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:

However you are right about the solvents - I should have mentioned that. *
Any strong alkali, like ammonia, will harm it.

It is a kitchen, after all. It will be cleaned. The best cleaners
are really nasty stuff.

I had an article from years ago about that best kitchen cleaners
(germane to my finishing business one would think I would have kept
it) and how they affected the surfaces they cleaned.

When I "final clean" my jobs, I am a big proponent of 409 since it
will cut oil, grease, and even take off pencil marks.

The report I had tested the cleaners to see how deep they cleaned and
if they damaged surfaces. In their testing, they found 409 to be
quite effective, but quite destructive. It ate off all manner of
kitchen cabinet finishes, took off paint, and even etched metal.

When I pick a finish for an item, I always think of what I could put
on it to make it look the best, wear the best, and what will keep me
out of warranty work.

Robert

In article ,
FrozenNorth wrote:

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Stainless steel. Matching the cabinets won't be much of an issue when
it's on fire. Put the oils somewhere else, too. The vinegar and salt
might at least help to put the fire out...

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

In article , frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Best bet's probably polyurethane. A precatalyzed lacquer would also be
good but it may take a week or so before you don't smell it anymore.

On 12/17/10 11:20 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In , frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...

Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.

I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Best bet's probably polyurethane. A precatalyzed lacquer would also be
good but it may take a week or so before you don't smell it anymore.

I can deal with a week of smell, I did the recommended burn cycle on the
new stove, the factory smell still comes out when I turn it on.

Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off
the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much
safer anyway.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

"FrozenNorth" wrote

Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off
the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much
safer anyway.
--
Froz...

Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a
thing. But don't let me stop you.

I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before subjecting it
to the heat and vapor

On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"FrozenNorth" wrote

Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
much safer anyway.
--
Froz...

Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such
a thing. But don't let me stop you.

The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your
logic I could never turn them off.

The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a
burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.

I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before
subjecting it to the heat and vapor


--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

FrozenNorth wrote:

On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"FrozenNorth" wrote

Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
much safer anyway.
--
Froz...

Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such
a thing. But don't let me stop you.

The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your
logic I could never turn them off.

The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a
burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.

I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before
subjecting it to the heat and vapor


No kidding, wonder how the cave men survived? Oh thats right they didn't.
Doubt it was because they were burned while grabbing the salt to season
their Mammoth.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

On Dec 18, 8:59*am, FrozenNorth
wrote:
On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"FrozenNorth" wrote

Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
much safer anyway.
--
Froz...

Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such
a thing. But don't let me stop you.

The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your
logic I could never turn them off.

The shelf will be above them. *Anyone worried about the chance for a
burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.

I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before
subjecting it to the heat and vapor




Corian, all colours
1/4" – 3/4" (6 mm–19 mm) (All colors)
FLAME SPREAD INDEX (FSI)25
SMOKE DEVELOPED INDEX (SDI)25

CLASS I (A)

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"FrozenNorth" wrote

Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
much safer anyway.
--
Froz...

Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such
a thing. But don't let me stop you.

The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your
logic I could never turn them off.

The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a burn
from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.

I use gas where the burners are sensibly up front. I'm neither a lawyer or
totally paranoid, but I've known of accidents from reaching over hot pots
and splattering grease. Of course, storing condiments in one of the
hottest spots in the kitchen is probably not the best idea either. Doubt
it will affect salt, but if the balsamic vinegar is good stuff, you'd not
have it in the light anyway. Cheap stuff makes little difference.