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#41
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
wrote I am still chuckling while wiping up! He said tits... If you liked that, how about his one... Boobs! There, I said it - Booobs! g -- Jim in NC |
#42
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
"FrozenNorth" wrote Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much safer anyway. -- Froz... Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a thing. But don't let me stop you. I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before subjecting it to the heat and vapor |
#43
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:54:45 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote: On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote: Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better. OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is. That's a valid concern. I think the assumption here is that the varnish is plenty tough enough and it will hold up for a long time. Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish. I don't think you would get the same protection from Watco. Watco is mostly thinner with some linseed oil, resins and metallic dryers. I don't think it qualifies as "long oil". And I've seen cases where Watco was used and the wood easily stained with water rings. |
#44
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 21:59:57 -0500, "Morgans"
wrote: wrote I am still chuckling while wiping up! He said tits... If you liked that, how about his one... Boobs! There, I said it - Booobs! g I'm a follower of Confuciust (is that a word?) thinking regarding small titties: One in mouth worth two in hand. -- The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings. -- Okakura Kakuzo |
#45
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 00:08:17 -0800, Jim Weisgram
wrote: On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:54:45 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard wrote: On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote: Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better. OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is. That's a valid concern. I think the assumption here is that the varnish is plenty tough enough and it will hold up for a long time. For most varnishes, except polyurinestain, that's true. Do a quick scuff to give it tooth, dewax it with mineral spirits (taking no chances that it got a squirt of Pledge), then rub on another coat. Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish. I've tried honey (t&t) before and it was OK, but I much prefer Waterlox. It's much easier to rub on and I feel that it's a tougher product. I don't think you would get the same protection from Watco. Watco is mostly thinner with some linseed oil, resins and metallic dryers. I don't think it qualifies as "long oil". And I've seen cases where Watco was used and the wood easily stained with water rings. If Watco stained with water rings, it was from too few coats. It's not as sturdy, as you state, though. Other products are better. -- The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings. -- Okakura Kakuzo |
#46
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"FrozenNorth" wrote Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much safer anyway. -- Froz... Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a thing. But don't let me stop you. The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your logic I could never turn them off. The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid. I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before subjecting it to the heat and vapor -- Froz... The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance. |
#47
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 21:59:57 -0500, "Morgans" wrote: wrote I am still chuckling while wiping up! He said tits... If you liked that, how about his one... Boobs! There, I said it - Booobs! g I'm a follower of Confuciust (is that a word?) thinking regarding small titties: One in mouth worth two in hand. Ah so... and more than a mouthful is wasted! -- -Mike- |
#48
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
FrozenNorth wrote:
On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: "FrozenNorth" wrote Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much safer anyway. -- Froz... Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a thing. But don't let me stop you. The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your logic I could never turn them off. The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid. I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before subjecting it to the heat and vapor No kidding, wonder how the cave men survived? Oh thats right they didn't. Doubt it was because they were burned while grabbing the salt to season their Mammoth. -- "You can lead them to LINUX but you can't make them THINK" Man. 2010.1 Spring KDE4.4 2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb |
#49
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On Dec 18, 8:59*am, FrozenNorth
wrote: On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: "FrozenNorth" wrote Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much safer anyway. -- Froz... Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a thing. But don't let me stop you. The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your logic I could never turn them off. The shelf will be above them. *Anyone worried about the chance for a burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid. I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before subjecting it to the heat and vapor Corian, all colours 1/4" – 3/4" (6 mm–19 mm) (All colors) FLAME SPREAD INDEX (FSI)25 SMOKE DEVELOPED INDEX (SDI)25 CLASS I (A) |
#50
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
"FrozenNorth" wrote in message ... On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: "FrozenNorth" wrote Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much safer anyway. -- Froz... Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a thing. But don't let me stop you. The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your logic I could never turn them off. The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid. I use gas where the burners are sensibly up front. I'm neither a lawyer or totally paranoid, but I've known of accidents from reaching over hot pots and splattering grease. Of course, storing condiments in one of the hottest spots in the kitchen is probably not the best idea either. Doubt it will affect salt, but if the balsamic vinegar is good stuff, you'd not have it in the light anyway. Cheap stuff makes little difference. |
#51
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 07:13:29 -0800, Rich wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote: On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: "FrozenNorth" wrote Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much safer anyway. -- Froz... Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a thing. But don't let me stop you. The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your logic I could never turn them off. The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid. I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before subjecting it to the heat and vapor No kidding, wonder how the cave men survived? Oh thats right they didn't. Doubt it was because they were burned while grabbing the salt to season their Mammoth. Nope, it was from trying to collect sabretooth urine for marinade that killed them. -- The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings. -- Okakura Kakuzo |
#52
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On Dec 18, 11:50*am, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 07:13:29 -0800, Rich wrote: FrozenNorth wrote: On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: "FrozenNorth" wrote Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much safer anyway. -- Froz... Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a thing. But don't let me stop you. The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your logic I could never turn them off. The shelf will be above them. *Anyone worried about the chance for a burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid. I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before subjecting it to the heat and vapor No kidding, wonder how the cave men survived? Oh thats right they didn't.. Doubt it was because they were burned while grabbing the salt to season their Mammoth. Nope, it was from trying to collect sabretooth urine for marinade that killed them. -- The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Okakura Kakuzo I know for a fact that not all cavemen died. |
#53
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 05:36:07 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish. I've tried honey (t&t) before and it was OK, but I much prefer Waterlox. It's much easier to rub on and I feel that it's a tougher product. T&T have 3 different products. Not sure which one you're referring to. I meant the oil/varnish mix. Sounds like you may have mean the oil/ beeswax mix. I got started using T&T on bowls and such because it's non-toxic. It worked so well I started using it elsewhere. But shellac is still my favorite finish. -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#54
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On 12/18/10 11:33 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"FrozenNorth" wrote in message ... On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: "FrozenNorth" wrote Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much safer anyway. -- Froz... Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a thing. But don't let me stop you. The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your logic I could never turn them off. The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid. I use gas where the burners are sensibly up front. I'm neither a lawyer or totally paranoid, but I've known of accidents from reaching over hot pots and splattering grease. Of course, storing condiments in one of the hottest spots in the kitchen is probably not the best idea either. Doubt it will affect salt, but if the balsamic vinegar is good stuff, you'd not have it in the light anyway. Cheap stuff makes little difference. No gas in the house, I am in Canada, I am lucky to have electricity, I use whale and seal blubber for heat. I am not in the banana belt. :-) -- Froz... The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance. |
#55
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 09:06:09 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote: On Dec 18, 11:50*am, Larry Jaques wrote: Nope, it was from trying to collect sabretooth urine for marinade that killed them. I know for a fact that not all cavemen died. Damn, not your old brag again... -- If the only prayer you ever say in your whole life is "thank you," that would suffice. -- Meister Eckhart |
#56
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Finishing question
On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 18:15:50 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote: On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 05:36:07 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish. I've tried honey (t&t) before and it was OK, but I much prefer Waterlox. It's much easier to rub on and I feel that it's a tougher product. T&T have 3 different products. Not sure which one you're referring to. I meant the oil/varnish mix. Sounds like you may have mean the oil/ beeswax mix. No, the 'good stuff', the varnish oil. It's thick, thick, thick, like honey which is starting to crystallize! I wonder if that can is still usable... I got started using T&T on bowls and such because it's non-toxic. It worked so well I started using it elsewhere. But shellac is still my favorite finish. Waterlox Original in Satin is mine, bar none. A definite step up from Watco, especially in odor. -- The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings. -- Okakura Kakuzo |
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