On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 00:08:17 -0800, Jim Weisgram
wrote:

On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:54:45 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote:

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on
with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like
Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better.

OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets
screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've
read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is.

That's a valid concern. I think the assumption here is that the
varnish is plenty tough enough and it will hold up for a long time.

For most varnishes, except polyurinestain, that's true. Do a quick
scuff to give it tooth, dewax it with mineral spirits (taking no
chances that it got a squirt of Pledge), then rub on another coat.


Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is
reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish.

I've tried honey (t&t) before and it was OK, but I much prefer
Waterlox. It's much easier to rub on and I feel that it's a tougher
product.


I don't think you would get the same protection from Watco. Watco is
mostly thinner with some linseed oil, resins and metallic dryers. I
don't think it qualifies as "long oil". And I've seen cases where
Watco was used and the wood easily stained with water rings.

If Watco stained with water rings, it was from too few coats. It's
not as sturdy, as you state, though. Other products are better.

--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
-- Okakura Kakuzo