On 10/12/10 2:06 PM, J. Clarke wrote:

If you have it set correctly for the stock thickness then you should be
able to alternate cutting from the front and back faces and have them
mate perfectly without any shim required.


I guess I'm picturing this correctly. However, with what Robo says
about the top surface, that may not work out correctly. Of course, I'm
not sure it would matter for wood... maybe it would. (pun)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 12, 5:14*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:

Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".

You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
the curve.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
tight as possible.
Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.

On Oct 12, 5:27*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 2:06 PM, J. Clarke wrote:



If you have it set correctly for the stock thickness then you should be
able to alternate cutting from the front and back faces and have them
mate perfectly without any shim required.

I guess I'm picturing this correctly. *However, with what Robo says
about the top surface, that may not work out correctly. *Of course, I'm
not sure it would matter for wood... maybe it would. *(pun)

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

It is all about that top surface. Whatever happens to the bottom edge
would be in variance to the thickness accuracy.

On Oct 12, 3:06*pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
In article ,
says...







On 10/12/10 1:07 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:54 pm, *wrote:
On 10/12/10 12:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

* *zzactly. I got into the TruMatch routerbits/base combo and had so
much luck with it, I never looked back.

So, I get how the left and right match up with the wavy edge... like T&G.
Is the base combo part of it a spacer that is half the thickness of one
'wave?"

--

* *-MIKE-

an exact 1/8" however you get to that. Either a dedicated router base
or a shim laid on one edge (not as reliable.
I can hook you up with the right router base, which you can eithew
drill yourself or predrilled for your router.
I don't know how much of this you're going to do, so....
I think Tom calls it SeamRite
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2elob3u

If it's just a matter of setting the depth 1/8" up or down, I can do
that and make a test cut to check it.
I've also gotten pretty adept at running long stock over the router
table, so that's not an issue.
Funny, but this bit, with the exact offset of the outfeed fence, would
function as a jointer as well.

If you have it set correctly for the stock thickness then you should be
able to alternate cutting from the front and back faces and have them
mate perfectly without any shim required.

Only if the thickness is in perfect increments of .125"

On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:

Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".

You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
the curve.
-MIKE-

You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
tight as possible.
Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.

In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
"system."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 12, 6:00*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:





On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, *wrote:
On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:

Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".

You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
the curve.
* *-MIKE-

You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
tight as possible.
Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.

In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
"system."

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

I have also used the 'system' to butt-join laminated countertops with
very good results.

On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 10:45:53 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Oct 12, 1:35*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx

Purty cool, ensuring flatness while mating. What's the process to set
up the offset?

--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman

On Oct 12, 6:40*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 10:45:53 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy





wrote:
On Oct 12, 1:35*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 12:40*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. *Thanks guys.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Not so fast. TruMatch router bit is the way to go for end-to-end panel
glue-ups. IMHO. (Wavy bit)
Once you get used to that system, nothing else will do.

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx

Purty cool, ensuring flatness while mating. *What's the process to set
up the offset?

--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. * * *-- Howard Thurman

The base has the offset. Half of it is .125 higher.

On 10/12/2010 6:17 PM, Robatoy wrote:

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx

The base has the offset. Half of it is .125 higher.

Makes me want to go find some solid surface material to play with. I'm
sure I can find a use for this somewhere down the line ... an answer
looking for a question.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:
... an answer
looking for a question.


That's the urge I'm trying to resist. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/12/2010 6:23 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:
... an answer
looking for a question.


That's the urge I'm trying to resist. :-)

An elegant solution has an allure of its own ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Oct 12, 7:21*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 10/12/2010 6:17 PM, Robatoy wrote:

How rude of me...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o.../TrueMatch.jpg

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.is.co...uter_Bits.aspx
The base has the offset. Half of it is .125 higher.

Makes me want to go find some solid surface material to play with. I'm
sure I can find a use for this somewhere down the line ... an answer
looking for a question.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

But but but it works for everything. I have taken a 4x8 sheet of
cherry veneer and cut it crosswise into 3 pieces and wavybitted the
three pieces together to face a sit-down bar. You can see that on my
old website www.topworks.ca

On Oct 12, 7:23*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:

... an answer
looking for a question.

That's the urge I'm trying to resist. * :-)

what??? you scaredycat?

On 10/12/2010 6:23 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:
... an answer
looking for a question.


That's the urge I'm trying to resist. :-)

A solution looking for a problem. I get those a lot. :-)

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 10/12/10 6:40 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 7:23 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:

... an answer
looking for a question.

That's the urge I'm trying to resist. :-)

what??? you scaredycat?


No. :-) I'm schedule bound.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 12, 8:36*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/10 6:40 PM, Robatoy wrote:

On Oct 12, 7:23 pm, *wrote:
On 10/12/10 6:21 PM, Swingman wrote:

... an answer
looking for a question.

That's the urge I'm trying to resist. * :-)

what??? you scaredycat?

No. *:-) * I'm schedule bound.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

schedule schmedule

"Larry Jaques" wrote


Purty cool, ensuring flatness while mating. What's the process to set
up the offset?

Flatness while mating. Isn't that what they used to call the Methodist
position?

Max

I've always used just a saw cut, and check the gap before gluing by
laying out the boards and trial fitting them. In the rare case that their
is some adjustment needed (Saw blade is a WW2, so it is pretty rare) I use
my 22 inch jointer to straighten that edge. (Jointer made by Stanley)


--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:00:18 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:

Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".

You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
the curve.
-MIKE-

You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
tight as possible.
Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.

In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
"system."

Can you give a link to the manual? I couldn't find it.

"routerman" wrote in message
...
Perfect boards, no drying stresses, sharp rip blade, saw tuned, blade
parallel to fence?
Then expect a good time & a good glue line without jointing.
Reality: Rarely are any 2 sticks parallel along their edges after
sawing. As stress is released the work goes its own way (always out of
parallel) & chatters against the blade no matter what the quality of
the blade may be.
Perfect edges essential? Then joint.





I am not quite sure why the mention of 2 sticks not being parallel after
sawing would be of any matter. Jointing will not aid in bringing board
edges parallel either. Board edges need not be parallel to form a panel.
Board edges only need to be straight, which a TS and a jointer will do.
Granted a board may not remain straight after being cut on a TS but another
trip through the TS on a sled, not unlike multiple passes through a jointer,
will again recreate the straight edge.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 10/12/10 4:32 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.

I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.

If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to
go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74
for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that
they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and
the ones I have do a fine job.


I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well.
I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an
excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?


I quit swapping blades when I bought a WWII. I get a cut when ripping
normal thickness stock that is shiney smooth with out tooth marks. You
might be able to get a better cut from another blade buty what would be the
point. As it is the edge does not have to be sanded for appearance sake.
Now if you are going to be ripping THICK stock you might opt for a rip
blade. 10+ years and I only use a rip blade for ripping 2x4's.

On 10/13/10 6:57 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:00:18 -0500,
wrote:

On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:

Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".

You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
the curve.
-MIKE-

You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
tight as possible.
Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.

In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
"system."

Can you give a link to the manual? I couldn't find it.

There website is horrible.
http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Porter-Cable/699353,692.pdf
or
http://xrl.us/trumatch

If that doesn't work, do to the front of the link and search for
"tru-match" under "model."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 13, 12:04*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/10 6:57 AM, wrote:





On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:00:18 -0500,
wrote:

On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, * wrote:
On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:

Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".

You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
the curve.
* * -MIKE-

You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
tight as possible.
Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.

In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
"system."

Can you give a link to the manual? *I couldn't find it.

There website is horrible.
http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manua...
orhttp://xrl.us/trumatch

If that doesn't work, do to the front of the link and search for
"tru-match" under "model."

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Oh my.....
That base is a piece of awfulness. It flexes, doesn't stay true and
simply isn't big enough.
$ 46.00 buys a precision phenolic base from Pinske.
You don't have to buy his insert bit holder and wavy bit inserts,
because the PC and Freud ones work just fine.

http://www.pinske-edge.com

Look for 'wavy bit' and base.

On 10/13/10 12:45 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 13, 12:04 pm, wrote:
On 10/13/10 6:57 AM, wrote:





On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:00:18 -0500,
wrote:

On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 12, 5:14 pm, wrote:
On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:

Hard to explain, I need to draw that up for you.... maybe not. You
want the upside seam to be vertical, not on any tangent of that 1/8".

You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with
the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in
the curve.
-MIKE-

You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90° to the surface. If you do
anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges,
lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as
tight as possible.
Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.

In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the
"system."

Can you give a link to the manual? I couldn't find it.

There website is horrible.
http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manua...
orhttp://xrl.us/trumatch

If that doesn't work, do to the front of the link and search for
"tru-match" under "model."


Oh my.....
That base is a piece of awfulness. It flexes, doesn't stay true and
simply isn't big enough.
$ 46.00 buys a precision phenolic base from Pinske.
You don't have to buy his insert bit holder and wavy bit inserts,
because the PC and Freud ones work just fine.

http://www.pinske-edge.com

Look for 'wavy bit' and base.

It wasn't an endorsement from me. I was just looking for pictures for
my feeble brain. :-)

http://www.pinske-edge.com/shop/prod...base-no-holes/
http://www.pinske-edge.com/shop/prod...y-base-wholes/

His stuff definitely looks better.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

By the way, I just came home with this...
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19173/Freud-Glue-Line-Ripping-Saw-Blade.aspx

I love multitaskers and I've never had a good rip blade.
I know I paid too much, but that silly schedule schmedule got the best
of me.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Oct 13, 3:29*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
By the way, I just came home with this...
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19173/Freud-Glue-Line-Rippin...

I love multitaskers and I've never had a good rip blade.
I know I paid too much, but that silly schedule schmedule got the best
of me.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Great blade. Used it a lot.

On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 21:27:17 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table
saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no
way in hell can I go straight to a glue up.

Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and
felt better about things

-Kevin

On Oct 13, 6:24*pm, Kevin wrote:
On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 21:27:17 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. *The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
*I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table
saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no
way in hell can I go straight to a glue up. *

Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and
felt better about things

-Kevin

Fun, huh?

On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 16:16:00 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Oct 13, 6:24*pm, Kevin wrote:

This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table
saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no
way in hell can I go straight to a glue up. *

Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and
felt better about things

-Kevin

Fun, huh?

Yeah, but then you make me feel inadequate about my cnc

-Kevin

On 10/13/10 2:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Oct 13, 3:29 pm, wrote:
By the way, I just came home with this...
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19173/Freud-Glue-Line-Rippin...

Great blade. Used it a lot.


This blade is living up to its hype.
First thing I noticed is that the stock moves a lot faster with a
dedicated rip blade.
Second thing I noticed is that the cut surface comes out looking as good
or better than a edge done on a router.
With the exception of some light burns due to operator error, it cuts a
pristine edge.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 12:53:22 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

WWII is a combination blade. I don't have one and have never felt the
need so can't say whether it gives a finish better than any of the
blades I do have, however I would not expect any combination blade to
give a finish as good as a purpose made rip or crosscut blade doing rip
or crosscut respectively.

I used to use the Freud rip and crosscut blades and they did a great
job. But since I bought a Freud Fusion I don't switch blades very often
- it's that good. But it's still not quite as good as the Freud rip
blade. It seems to be better than the Freud crosscut blade. And I no
longer use a plywood blade at all.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Oct 15, 9:06*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/13/10 2:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

On Oct 13, 3:29 pm, *wrote:
By the way, I just came home with this...
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19173/Freud-Glue-Line-Rippin....

Great blade. Used it a lot.

This blade is living up to its hype.
First thing I noticed is that the stock moves a lot faster with a
dedicated rip blade.
Second thing I noticed is that the cut surface comes out looking as good
or better than a edge done on a router.
With the exception of some light burns due to operator error, it cuts a
pristine edge.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

IMHO, table saws shine at ripping, it is what they do best. Cutting
panels to size (plywood, MDF, PB) is another of its strong points, but
a proper panel saw does that job better and takes up way less space,
but you can't rip lumber on a panel saw, so table saw it is.

On Oct 12, 10:27*am, -MIKE- wrote:
I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case
I'm building for a client. *The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone
mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw.
* I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good
blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that?
Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone?
Is there a better saw blade for this?

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
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*http://mikedrums.com
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I remember that an electrical tool can do this easily.

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http://www.towood.com/ is a market place for importers and exporters
to trading furniture, plywood, timbers, hardwood floors, MDF, HDF,
tropical logs.

Swingman writes:
Well, the WWII is a "combination" blade, optimized as an all purpose
blade that does an exceptional job either ripping or crosscutting.

The Freud Glue Line Rip is optimized, in tooth pattern and setting,
specifically for ripping, as well as for getting an exceptional cut.

In actual practice, and IME, either blade will work fine in most stock
for making glue line ready rip cuts.

That said, not all stock is the same and, particularly with thicker
hardwoods, I firmly believe that a high quality, dedicated "rip" blade
is the best tool for the job if you're not going to use the jointer.

When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every
single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the
jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.


I noticed on Amazon that there are several 10" Freud Glue line rip
blades.
Can you tell me which one you have had the good experiences with?

I noticed on Amazon that there are several 10" Freud Glue line rip
blades.
Can you tell me which one you have had the good experiences with?

I have the LM74R010 which is the 30 teeth, 12 degree hook, full kerf,
10" blade with the red "perma-shield" coating. I am extremely pleased
with it.

As far as I can tell, the other Amazon blades are the thin kerf version
and the industial version. The industrial is the one that isn't red.
It has the "silver ice" non-stick coating, which I'm guessing
accomplishes the same thing as the red blade, without the red. :-)
The red version actually has "industrial" printed on it, too.

The thin kerf versions are for lower powered saws. If you have a
contractor saw that is under 2hp or so, thin kerf would help you out.
But if you have a cabinet or hybrid with a heavy duty motor, you'll want
the full kerf for stability.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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